For Sale LuDEF finished and tested boards
Making room for new projects. LuDEF up for sale $150 plus shipping. Cinemags cmoq 4 hpc included. Tested and ready to get bolted down and started.
Recommend me the woofer for my big Heresy
Hi everyone, I'm starting a new project for the heresy big version (Klipsch Forte style), the components will be:
-B&C DE10 tweeter
-K53k medium with 15" horn.
As for the woofer, I don't know, I have selected some models that I can easily find, with a price around €150 and they are:
Eminence beta 12A (I already have this one)
B&C 12NDL76
RCF LF12X401
Dayton pa 310-8
LaVoce waf122.50
For each I attach the technical data sheets.
The dimensions will be approximately 100l like the FASTLANE AUDIO version with 4" port.
Which of these woofers might be best for you? I chose these because they are easy to find and affordable, but I could use others in that price range.
Thanks
-B&C DE10 tweeter
-K53k medium with 15" horn.
As for the woofer, I don't know, I have selected some models that I can easily find, with a price around €150 and they are:
Eminence beta 12A (I already have this one)
B&C 12NDL76
RCF LF12X401
Dayton pa 310-8
LaVoce waf122.50
For each I attach the technical data sheets.
The dimensions will be approximately 100l like the FASTLANE AUDIO version with 4" port.
Which of these woofers might be best for you? I chose these because they are easy to find and affordable, but I could use others in that price range.
Thanks
Grado Labs Prestige Series SR80 Headphone repair Help
- By Jeffrey 01
- Headphone Systems
- 11 Replies
Attachments
Stovey
- By Chompy
- Subwoofers
- 7 Replies
'Lil Stovey'
It's kind of an art project, but also a fully functional 5 gallon bucket shop sub with a chimney port.
8" driver from a Sony bookshelf system
Metal, wood, plastic, bedliner, acrylics
I have a few build photos but it seems pretty self-explanatory? 🙂
It was fun having an excuse to use an external port.
The holes in the chimney are so the port length is at the holes, but the chimney is visually as tall as it is. I think they might whistle a little at the very highest volume due to the relatively sharp edges, so I probably won't do that again. The straight part of the chimney is removable and usable at a higher tuning without it (the elbow alone is around 8 inches of port length, best as I could tell).
I learned that common buckets are HDPE, so nothing really sticks to them... I used PL 3x as a sealant but the end caps are mechanically fastened with (many) screws.
It's running full range in the video but will be crossed over to a matco 'bumpboxx' (which seems to have a nice volume-controlled line-out). And the video is just to show off the looks, not for the sound, fwiw 🙂
It's kind of an art project, but also a fully functional 5 gallon bucket shop sub with a chimney port.
8" driver from a Sony bookshelf system
Metal, wood, plastic, bedliner, acrylics
I have a few build photos but it seems pretty self-explanatory? 🙂
It was fun having an excuse to use an external port.
The holes in the chimney are so the port length is at the holes, but the chimney is visually as tall as it is. I think they might whistle a little at the very highest volume due to the relatively sharp edges, so I probably won't do that again. The straight part of the chimney is removable and usable at a higher tuning without it (the elbow alone is around 8 inches of port length, best as I could tell).
I learned that common buckets are HDPE, so nothing really sticks to them... I used PL 3x as a sealant but the end caps are mechanically fastened with (many) screws.
It's running full range in the video but will be crossed over to a matco 'bumpboxx' (which seems to have a nice volume-controlled line-out). And the video is just to show off the looks, not for the sound, fwiw 🙂
GB For Salas I-Select Mesmerize Type input selector and volume control
- By Tea-Bag
- Group Buys
- 295 Replies
The I-Select board takes the selector functionality and volume control from the old mesmerize boards and implements in a standalone fashion.
This gives one a relay based selector control, relays perform reliably with great longevity and have superior electrical isolation characteristics.
This can also act as a standalone passive preamplifier, or be tied to the input of the DCB1, DCG3 or any other type of input for that matter.
The boards are $16.00
I am making a minikit available for this. It will come with no volume control, 4 inputs and a selector switch. However, read the guide, there are other ways to set this up to gather off a previous DC output voltage, and to power another unit if need be. So this is just a 'basic' type kit. More relays available on request.
4-EA2-12NJ-12V relays
8-1N4003G
1-EEU-FC1V222-Panasonic FC 35v 2200uf
1-Molex 2P Terminal Block Black
1-Headers & Wire Housings HSG 7P SINGLE ROW
1-Headers & Wire Housings 7P STRT 1 ROW GOLD 5.5MM MATING PIN
4-Headers & Wire Housings 3P STRT 1 ROW GOLD 6.8MM MATING PIN
4-Headers & Wire Housings HSG 3P SINGLE ROW NON-POLARIZED
25-Headers & Wire Housings 22-24 TERMINAL BULK
1-Wakefield 637-10ABPE heatsink
1-7812 voltage regulator
1-Rotary Switches ROTARY 2POL 6POS NS Alpha
1-Vishay MBB Through Hole .6w 10k 1% 50ppm
1-Kemet Film Capacitors .1uF 100volts 5%
1-20ma LED
$36.00
This gives one a relay based selector control, relays perform reliably with great longevity and have superior electrical isolation characteristics.
This can also act as a standalone passive preamplifier, or be tied to the input of the DCB1, DCG3 or any other type of input for that matter.
The boards are $16.00
I am making a minikit available for this. It will come with no volume control, 4 inputs and a selector switch. However, read the guide, there are other ways to set this up to gather off a previous DC output voltage, and to power another unit if need be. So this is just a 'basic' type kit. More relays available on request.
4-EA2-12NJ-12V relays
8-1N4003G
1-EEU-FC1V222-Panasonic FC 35v 2200uf
1-Molex 2P Terminal Block Black
1-Headers & Wire Housings HSG 7P SINGLE ROW
1-Headers & Wire Housings 7P STRT 1 ROW GOLD 5.5MM MATING PIN
4-Headers & Wire Housings 3P STRT 1 ROW GOLD 6.8MM MATING PIN
4-Headers & Wire Housings HSG 3P SINGLE ROW NON-POLARIZED
25-Headers & Wire Housings 22-24 TERMINAL BULK
1-Wakefield 637-10ABPE heatsink
1-7812 voltage regulator
1-Rotary Switches ROTARY 2POL 6POS NS Alpha
1-Vishay MBB Through Hole .6w 10k 1% 50ppm
1-Kemet Film Capacitors .1uF 100volts 5%
1-20ma LED
$36.00
recap/rebuild the crossovers on ESS AMT bookshelf speakers
- Multi-Way
- 3 Replies
I plan to recap this crossover and put new speaker cable binding posts on this ESS AMT bookshelf
I emailed ESS. They told me that they're looking for the manual and schematics of this ESS AMT Bookshelf.
here is the schematics I found:
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/ess-amt-1d-schematic-upgrade.306388/
On this particular crossover, which part should I replace? Thank you in advance!
I emailed ESS. They told me that they're looking for the manual and schematics of this ESS AMT Bookshelf.
here is the schematics I found:
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/ess-amt-1d-schematic-upgrade.306388/
On this particular crossover, which part should I replace? Thank you in advance!
Velodyne CHT headache
- By ballisticz4
- Subwoofers
- 9 Replies
Good day all. I ecently got a Velodyne CHT avtive subwoofer from a friend. Im needing some advice regarding this subwoofer....and Im hoping to get it here. When I initially plugged it in....it worked but as soons as I increased the volume...it would clip and the relay would kick in. It would only start playing again once I lowered the volume. I checked voltages going to both op amps and its spot on 14.8 volts. What i did find is.... on the attached schematic..... Q709 and Q708 which are the output transistors base-collector come up as a dead short when testing with a MM on continuity. On Q713 and Q716 the collector-emmitter comes up as dead shorts using the multimeter set to continuity. There are numerous other components in the circuits like resistors, diodes and even caps that do the exact same thing. Polarized caps do the exact same thing when testing with a multimeter set on continuity...but it only does it for a second and then no continuity. So far I have replaced all the smaller transistors...becasue I had them. Im hoping some of the more experianced techs could maybe have a look at the below schematic and maybe offer some advice on what to check...if at all possible. any help would be appreciated. Atatched schematic is from Velodyne support. Thanx in advance.....have a blessed and prosperous 2024.
NAD C316BEE - V2 version ( schematics ? )
- By dray177
- Solid State
- 27 Replies
Dear All,
My Nad C316BEE is broken : it does not turn on !
To fix it, I am looking for the schematics ( service manual ).
Of course there is service manual online, but for only the initial version.
Mine, version V2, has the Main VM3.0 card, with a different diagram.
Also totally different the POWER SWITCH board.
Without these diagrams, I do not know how to repair ( possible that it is problem with +5volts lost ? ).
If any of you had the diagrams ( sm will be the best ) for this V2 version...
And if he agrees to communicate them,
I will be eternally grateful to him !!!
Raymond
( pardon me for my poor English, I am French )
My Nad C316BEE is broken : it does not turn on !
To fix it, I am looking for the schematics ( service manual ).
Of course there is service manual online, but for only the initial version.
Mine, version V2, has the Main VM3.0 card, with a different diagram.
Also totally different the POWER SWITCH board.
Without these diagrams, I do not know how to repair ( possible that it is problem with +5volts lost ? ).
If any of you had the diagrams ( sm will be the best ) for this V2 version...
And if he agrees to communicate them,
I will be eternally grateful to him !!!
Raymond
( pardon me for my poor English, I am French )
Wire Post for Wire Mangement [3D Print]
UPDATED on June 7, 2024 with "Rev C" design.
NOTE: The improved design, now "Rev C version" attached as a zip file here is designed to be used with an M3 bolt (10-12mm) and associated nut (5.2mm wide by 2mm thick). The design now is such that the M3 nut inserts into the slot, then must be "set" into it's pocket by tightening with the bolt first, to pull it into the hex nut slot. Then the bolt can be removed and the post used as intended. There are 4 different lengths you can print, which are attached below in the zip file (57mm, 100mm, 130mm, & 160mm). Specifically, the change in design from Rev B to now Rev C is the nut is required, whereas previously, you could "thread" into the plastic without a nut. Now the hole is larger than the bolt (or just about same size) and requires the nut to be set into it's pocket first. This is a more secure method and avoids the chance of the nut spinning by creating a pocket perfectly sized for the nut to set into. Reach out to me with any questions.
I'm giving these iterations away for free as a thank you to the diyaudio community. Interested parties who need me to print parts for you just send me a prepaid shipping label so no money needs to be transferred. Reach out via PM to coordinate. Cheapest option is print yourself or use a buddy who has a hobby 3D printer.
I created the wire post to help with wire separation and management in my F5m chassis (but works on all amps), and plan to share a final product as I go through iterations to optimize the design. There are now 4 different versions that are based on height (57mm, 100mm, 130mm, and 160mm). They all work well and create great zip tie points to hold wiring firmly in place and appropriately spaced (that part is up to you).
These mount to the bottom plate with a M3 bolt and nut (nut is technically optional). It will thread securely into the PLA print as the pocket/hole is 19mm deep and smaller than the thread outer diameter, however, there's also a slot if you want to add additional "rock solid" connection using an M3 nut (just slide the nut down the slot prior to bolting the post to the plate so the bolt threads into the nut).
The whole point is to create a structural point to connect to that guides and separates the various wire runs (filter board to amp board, amp board to speaker out, etc...). The goal is to make numerous versions for a variety of applications you can print at home (or use a buddies 3D printer, maker space, or fab house). The inspiration is from aerospace industry wire posts used to control and separate wire runs.
Although the material is "PLA" (Polyacitic acid), it's thermal properties seem to sill hold up inside the class A amps. I have not seen any deformation due to heat, even when the post is very close to the hot heat sink (heat sink is 60°C and PLA softens around 100°C) so as long as the loads are low (aka, just holding wires in place), the post does not deform under the heat loads.
I printed a bunch of these to give away to interested parties. Reach out via PM if you're interested.
M3 Nut just slides into the slot before bolting on.
NOTE: The improved design, now "Rev C version" attached as a zip file here is designed to be used with an M3 bolt (10-12mm) and associated nut (5.2mm wide by 2mm thick). The design now is such that the M3 nut inserts into the slot, then must be "set" into it's pocket by tightening with the bolt first, to pull it into the hex nut slot. Then the bolt can be removed and the post used as intended. There are 4 different lengths you can print, which are attached below in the zip file (57mm, 100mm, 130mm, & 160mm). Specifically, the change in design from Rev B to now Rev C is the nut is required, whereas previously, you could "thread" into the plastic without a nut. Now the hole is larger than the bolt (or just about same size) and requires the nut to be set into it's pocket first. This is a more secure method and avoids the chance of the nut spinning by creating a pocket perfectly sized for the nut to set into. Reach out to me with any questions.
I'm giving these iterations away for free as a thank you to the diyaudio community. Interested parties who need me to print parts for you just send me a prepaid shipping label so no money needs to be transferred. Reach out via PM to coordinate. Cheapest option is print yourself or use a buddy who has a hobby 3D printer.
I created the wire post to help with wire separation and management in my F5m chassis (but works on all amps), and plan to share a final product as I go through iterations to optimize the design. There are now 4 different versions that are based on height (57mm, 100mm, 130mm, and 160mm). They all work well and create great zip tie points to hold wiring firmly in place and appropriately spaced (that part is up to you).
These mount to the bottom plate with a M3 bolt and nut (nut is technically optional). It will thread securely into the PLA print as the pocket/hole is 19mm deep and smaller than the thread outer diameter, however, there's also a slot if you want to add additional "rock solid" connection using an M3 nut (just slide the nut down the slot prior to bolting the post to the plate so the bolt threads into the nut).
The whole point is to create a structural point to connect to that guides and separates the various wire runs (filter board to amp board, amp board to speaker out, etc...). The goal is to make numerous versions for a variety of applications you can print at home (or use a buddies 3D printer, maker space, or fab house). The inspiration is from aerospace industry wire posts used to control and separate wire runs.
Although the material is "PLA" (Polyacitic acid), it's thermal properties seem to sill hold up inside the class A amps. I have not seen any deformation due to heat, even when the post is very close to the hot heat sink (heat sink is 60°C and PLA softens around 100°C) so as long as the loads are low (aka, just holding wires in place), the post does not deform under the heat loads.
I printed a bunch of these to give away to interested parties. Reach out via PM if you're interested.
M3 Nut just slides into the slot before bolting on.
Attachments
VFET2 Amplifier Kit - all of the good parts!
SOLD!!
For Sale is one Sony VFet2 amplifier kit. You'll get ALL of the interesting/good/hard to find parts in closely matched pairs/quads. You just need to add the generic bits, a power supply, and a chassis to enjoy this beautiful and awesome amplifier.
This kit includes the following:
One pair of original DIYAudio VFet heatsink mounting brackets with predilled holes appropriately spaced for TO-3 cans
One pair of original DIYAudio VFet2 boards
Two complimentary pairs of original Sony Vfets: 2SJ28s measure 7.5v and 7.6v, 2SK82s measure 7.8v and 7.9v
One matched quad of original Toshiba jFets: 2SK170 measure 9.9mA and 9.8mA, 2SJ74 measure 9.9mA and 9.7mA
One matched quad of original Toshiba Fets: 2SK2013 measure 2.27v and 2SJ313 measure 2.27v
One pair ZTX450 transistors (unmatched)
One pair ZTX550 transistors (unmatched)
One pair of IRFP240 transistors (unmatched, but from same die)
One pair of IRFP9240 transistors, matched at 4.16v
Mica insulators for VFet TO-3 cans
Original Toshiba Front End Transistors:
2SK170/2SJ74 jFets were sourced from Spencer at FetAudio years ago. These are known/verfied original Toshiba jFets and a well-matched quad. 2SK2013/2SJ313 Fets were sourced from DIYA member NicMac long ago. They are known/verified original Toshiba parts and a well-matched quad.
Original Sony VFets sourced from Acronman at CircuitDIY years ago. These are known/verified original parts and a closely matched quad.
Here's a photo of everything that is included (oops, the ZTX450 transistors are not in the image, but still included):
Price: $475 via PayPal "Friends & Family" delivered to your door in the continental US.
For Sale is one Sony VFet2 amplifier kit. You'll get ALL of the interesting/good/hard to find parts in closely matched pairs/quads. You just need to add the generic bits, a power supply, and a chassis to enjoy this beautiful and awesome amplifier.
This kit includes the following:
One pair of original DIYAudio VFet heatsink mounting brackets with predilled holes appropriately spaced for TO-3 cans
One pair of original DIYAudio VFet2 boards
Two complimentary pairs of original Sony Vfets: 2SJ28s measure 7.5v and 7.6v, 2SK82s measure 7.8v and 7.9v
One matched quad of original Toshiba jFets: 2SK170 measure 9.9mA and 9.8mA, 2SJ74 measure 9.9mA and 9.7mA
One matched quad of original Toshiba Fets: 2SK2013 measure 2.27v and 2SJ313 measure 2.27v
One pair ZTX450 transistors (unmatched)
One pair ZTX550 transistors (unmatched)
One pair of IRFP240 transistors (unmatched, but from same die)
One pair of IRFP9240 transistors, matched at 4.16v
Mica insulators for VFet TO-3 cans
Original Toshiba Front End Transistors:
2SK170/2SJ74 jFets were sourced from Spencer at FetAudio years ago. These are known/verfied original Toshiba jFets and a well-matched quad. 2SK2013/2SJ313 Fets were sourced from DIYA member NicMac long ago. They are known/verified original Toshiba parts and a well-matched quad.
Original Sony VFets sourced from Acronman at CircuitDIY years ago. These are known/verified original parts and a closely matched quad.
Here's a photo of everything that is included (oops, the ZTX450 transistors are not in the image, but still included):
Price: $475 via PayPal "Friends & Family" delivered to your door in the continental US.
Technics SA-303: R703 thermal management
- By gghodg
- Solid State
- 4 Replies
Hi folks,
I found a working Technics SA-303 and want to replace the stock R703 (470ohms - 5 Watts) due to heat damage on the board (circled in red). I don’t think there are any faults. I’ve measured 40 volts across the resistor. That is 3.5 Watts for a 5 Watt rated resistor! I found a thick film 10 Watt TO-220 package resistor and a heatsink that will fit in the volume (30mm x 30mm x 30mm). Wondering if there is a more common replacement for these power resistors. All of the other 10 watt rated resistors are too big. Thanks. Schematic and photo attached.
I found a working Technics SA-303 and want to replace the stock R703 (470ohms - 5 Watts) due to heat damage on the board (circled in red). I don’t think there are any faults. I’ve measured 40 volts across the resistor. That is 3.5 Watts for a 5 Watt rated resistor! I found a thick film 10 Watt TO-220 package resistor and a heatsink that will fit in the volume (30mm x 30mm x 30mm). Wondering if there is a more common replacement for these power resistors. All of the other 10 watt rated resistors are too big. Thanks. Schematic and photo attached.
DATS v3 questions
- By adason
- Equipment & Tools
- 68 Replies
Just gave myself a little gift for xmass.
Can anyone help me interpret some curves?
Basically just checking at first. Yes, i read some dayton brochures.
Here after hookup, i measured small aura fullrange, then four loose tweeters.
Can anyone help me interpret some curves?
Basically just checking at first. Yes, i read some dayton brochures.
Here after hookup, i measured small aura fullrange, then four loose tweeters.
Transformer Chassis Seat - vertical mounting of Antek 300/400VA (3D Print Files)
UPDATE NOTE: If you want to use an Antek 400VA transformer with this seat, you do need to use some 10-15mm spacers for the 130mm pipe strap. The slightly larger diameter of the 400VA over the 300VA transformer means there's a gap that exists between the chassis perforated plate and the strap ends. If you don't care what it looks like, then spacers really aren't needed as they don't increase the strength of the "grip". You do need to use longer M4 bolts (M4 10-12mm work for a 300VA, but 20-25mm are needed for 400VA. The spacers just make a cleaner look is all by flattening the tabs (see pics at end of this post and associated ZIP file with the 11mm spacer 3D file). Don't buy 150mm straps and think they'll fix the issue as those are too long. Stick with 130mm and either use spacers, or live with floating tabs (secure as a rock with either option).
I'm posting the 3D print files here for the Transformer Chassis Seat I created for my F5m build. Version 2 is now the most up to date (3-19-2024), which simply allows a "lip up" option to the perforated pate. The title to this thread says "Antek", but this may work for other transformers with similar widths/diameters. Making tweaks for other transformers is not hard, so feel free to reach out via PM to create a new version for other transformers.
For now, please see pictures from my build in the F5m Kit thread here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/f5m-kit.408290/post-7627904
Below is a zip file which contains both version 1 and version 2 STL & 3MF files for anyone to download and use however they see fit.
Hardware required:
Assembly
More to come as I try out different designs and try to make something that's more "universal" for different applications.
Here's a 400VA using 20mm M4 bolts without spacers. Still crazy secure, but kinda looks "janky". (not that anyone sees this once case is closed up)
Here's what the 400VA transformner looks like using 11mm 3D printed spacers. Just looks better, but no more, or less secure. Purely cosmetic.
I'm posting the 3D print files here for the Transformer Chassis Seat I created for my F5m build. Version 2 is now the most up to date (3-19-2024), which simply allows a "lip up" option to the perforated pate. The title to this thread says "Antek", but this may work for other transformers with similar widths/diameters. Making tweaks for other transformers is not hard, so feel free to reach out via PM to create a new version for other transformers.
For now, please see pictures from my build in the F5m Kit thread here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/f5m-kit.408290/post-7627904
Below is a zip file which contains both version 1 and version 2 STL & 3MF files for anyone to download and use however they see fit.
- Version 1 - Original Design, no slot for "lip up" perforated plate orientation. [I don't see any reason to use this since Version 2, does what this does and more. However, maybe being 2mm closer to the bottom is beneficial for a few folks.]
- Version 2 - 2mm Taller (allows more squish and squeeze) and has a slot to allow for "lip up" orientation of perforated plate if you go that route. Pics below are of version 2 showing the slot.
Hardware required:
- 2x qty: M4x10mm bolts with standard nuts to mount the seat to the chassis. [2x bolt and 2x nut]
- 2x qty: M4x10mm (or 12mm) bolts with lock nut, or lock washers, and fender washers to hold the pipe strap down. [2x bolt, 2x locknut, 2x fender washer]
- NOTE: If you want to use a 400VA transformer you'll need M4 x 20mm bolts (25mm also works). Spacers are not a requirement, but will certainly make it look more professional. Spacer print is attached below, or use any spacer that is between 10-15mm.
- 1x qty: 130mm Stainless Steal Pipe Strap with Rubber Cushion (cost is around $2 or $3 for one, but you typically have to buy more than one)
Assembly
- Start by mounting the seat itself and ensure transformer has a little clearance around it.
- Set the transformer up with the wires off to sides to avoid interfering with sides of seat.
- Loosely attach one side of the pipe strap with the lock nut.
- With your three hands (yeah, a third hand would help as its tricky), put the other end of the strap on compressing the transformer into the squishy seat to get the nut to thread.
- Tighten it all up nice and tight....all done.
More to come as I try out different designs and try to make something that's more "universal" for different applications.
Here's a 400VA using 20mm M4 bolts without spacers. Still crazy secure, but kinda looks "janky". (not that anyone sees this once case is closed up)
Here's what the 400VA transformner looks like using 11mm 3D printed spacers. Just looks better, but no more, or less secure. Purely cosmetic.
For Sale ACA Mini Stereo Amp
Selling the first ACA Mini I built which used the ACA Mini Essentials kit, parts from Mouser and extra parts I wasn’t using. Upgrades include DynamiCap input film caps, a medical grade switching power supply, a P089ZB clone of a SMPS DC filter and Welwyn RC55 resistors in the signal path. Everything was mounted on a wooden board for expediency. Ugly, but sounds great!
$100obo including shipping to the lower 48.
Also included is a bare ACA Mini PCB and the original instructions left over from building a second ACA Mini using PCBs of my own design mounted on huge heat sinks.
$100obo including shipping to the lower 48.
Also included is a bare ACA Mini PCB and the original instructions left over from building a second ACA Mini using PCBs of my own design mounted on huge heat sinks.
Attachments
Two Hifonics BXI-2610D, one repaired, another component ID PWN
One amp died when Main positive and negative power in crossed, and the other failed with a multimeter attached while connected to speaker terminals while loaded. Of these two are the components I have to replace with bd139 & bd140, IRFP064N, IRF640. The first amp I have replaced with bd139 and bd140, new 47ohm resistors & IRFP064N, and repaired a trace under the coils.
I have the other amp all with the same symptoms, but additionally, the pwm/protection board has some failed components I have been scouring the forum for. I found here the schematic to help Identify resistor values but no ID on the transistor in position Q5. I dont know what Q5 is, a pnp transistor or linear voltage regulator? https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-type-3-protectionmarkedtype3-01-pdf.1270452/
Im also reading a handful of odd resistor values on the pwm board as well.
Where I can get a hold of a replacement board? Tracing Q5 to r10A (top), bottom middle leg to pin 1, left leg to C1898, But What does the right leg lead to seeing as it blown the trace? Probing what little left of the trace shows that its connected to pin1(bottom leg & top). What is the transistor of Q5?
I have the other amp all with the same symptoms, but additionally, the pwm/protection board has some failed components I have been scouring the forum for. I found here the schematic to help Identify resistor values but no ID on the transistor in position Q5. I dont know what Q5 is, a pnp transistor or linear voltage regulator? https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-type-3-protectionmarkedtype3-01-pdf.1270452/
Im also reading a handful of odd resistor values on the pwm board as well.
Where I can get a hold of a replacement board? Tracing Q5 to r10A (top), bottom middle leg to pin 1, left leg to C1898, But What does the right leg lead to seeing as it blown the trace? Probing what little left of the trace shows that its connected to pin1(bottom leg & top). What is the transistor of Q5?
For Sale EL34 Test NOS EH Match Quad Tesla Brown MP Tubes
- By LectroMoto
- Swap Meet
- 1 Replies
Attachments
Modular phono preamp
- Analogue Source
- 13 Replies
I've just finished the build for the first pcb of my modular phono preamp project.
It does RIAA compensation and basic amplification suitable for an MM input.
I intend to design an MC stage pcb, an input connector pcb, an output connector and power pcb (perhaps with battery option), a rumble filter pcb. They will slot together with dupont-style edge connectors, allowing various configurations.
The two channels are independent in this pcb, roughly mirror-image, allowing a star-ground to be used at the power supply end.
SMT is used where possible to keep size down. PPS capacitors seem to be the best compromise for low distortion and SMT availability - here a single value, 10nF, is needed.
The RIAA circuit topology is slightly unusual in that each of the poles and zeroes is an explicit separate RC pair. Care has to be taken to keep the opamps stable into capacitive loads in this topology (the 33pF capacitors and 470 ohm resistors).
The nominal component values give exactly 75µs, 318µs and 3180µs time-constants. Alas I could only source 2% PPS capacitors, but 0.1% thin-film resistors are used throughout.
Where DC-blocking is needed I used back-to-back electrolytics of high value with a centre bias to keep them formed over time. The 22M resistors were a guess for this purpose - the time constant is measured in hours so in theory won't have any impact audibly.
There is no input DC-blocking capacitor, as my calculations show the tiny bias currents of opamps are not going to have any effect on a MM pickup (despite what a lot of people glibly state). 500nA in a 1k5 winding gives an offset of a fraction of a mV, and a few mA-turns of magneto motive force, insignificant compared to signal levels, especially when the inefficiency of the MM cartridge as a motor is considered. I think I'd need to see some hard evidence to the contrary, such as a plot of THD v. offset current.
It does RIAA compensation and basic amplification suitable for an MM input.
I intend to design an MC stage pcb, an input connector pcb, an output connector and power pcb (perhaps with battery option), a rumble filter pcb. They will slot together with dupont-style edge connectors, allowing various configurations.
The two channels are independent in this pcb, roughly mirror-image, allowing a star-ground to be used at the power supply end.
SMT is used where possible to keep size down. PPS capacitors seem to be the best compromise for low distortion and SMT availability - here a single value, 10nF, is needed.
The RIAA circuit topology is slightly unusual in that each of the poles and zeroes is an explicit separate RC pair. Care has to be taken to keep the opamps stable into capacitive loads in this topology (the 33pF capacitors and 470 ohm resistors).
The nominal component values give exactly 75µs, 318µs and 3180µs time-constants. Alas I could only source 2% PPS capacitors, but 0.1% thin-film resistors are used throughout.
Where DC-blocking is needed I used back-to-back electrolytics of high value with a centre bias to keep them formed over time. The 22M resistors were a guess for this purpose - the time constant is measured in hours so in theory won't have any impact audibly.
There is no input DC-blocking capacitor, as my calculations show the tiny bias currents of opamps are not going to have any effect on a MM pickup (despite what a lot of people glibly state). 500nA in a 1k5 winding gives an offset of a fraction of a mV, and a few mA-turns of magneto motive force, insignificant compared to signal levels, especially when the inefficiency of the MM cartridge as a motor is considered. I think I'd need to see some hard evidence to the contrary, such as a plot of THD v. offset current.
Automatic volume leveler
- By Tube Radio
- Analog Line Level
- 3 Replies
I've got the following circuit which keeps the level of an audio signal fairly constant.
Due to adding a VU meter circuit and only having a dual OP-AMP to drive the meter, I have an extra OP-AMP section.
Is it possible to connect the inputs to the + and - inputs of the OP-AMP and use it to drive a meter to indicate how much the circuit is operating on the signal?
Due to adding a VU meter circuit and only having a dual OP-AMP to drive the meter, I have an extra OP-AMP section.
Is it possible to connect the inputs to the + and - inputs of the OP-AMP and use it to drive a meter to indicate how much the circuit is operating on the signal?
LX Mini 3D Print
- By HomeMadeSin
- Multi-Way
- 22 Replies
After my fateful post re:LX Mini plan pricing, I did order the kit and plans from Madisound. Par for my course anyway, I decided to improve the WAF. Others have done 3D printing but I suspect they narrowed the focus a bit. These prints took a while and are (hopefully) cosmetic only. At least I’ve tried to make that way….
It’s not finished as I plan to incorporate a white wooden base (next time I would use a different filament color). And just to further my appreciation of “measure twice, cut (print) once” I managed to use the 6” flange OD as the bolt circle instead of the actual bolt circle. Damnit.
Z
It’s not finished as I plan to incorporate a white wooden base (next time I would use a different filament color). And just to further my appreciation of “measure twice, cut (print) once” I managed to use the 6” flange OD as the bolt circle instead of the actual bolt circle. Damnit.
Z
Tube Lab SPP build
Been a long time since I have posted in here. Starting a Tube Lab SPP build and have ran into an issue with a bit of a solder bridge and was wondering if this will be an issue?
R204/R203 and pin 8 on the V200 tube socket? I've been trying to clean it up🥴
Looks like R204/R203 are connected? But definitely get the solder away from pin 8. Just want to make sure before I overdue it trying to remove something I don't need to.
Thanks in advance
R204/R203 and pin 8 on the V200 tube socket? I've been trying to clean it up🥴
Looks like R204/R203 are connected? But definitely get the solder away from pin 8. Just want to make sure before I overdue it trying to remove something I don't need to.
Thanks in advance
SSL Matrix 2
- Solid State
- 2 Replies
Please let me know if you have any questions about this board. I have one of these at my studio in Orlando, FL. East Rom Suites It is by far one of the best consoles for a small studio footprint. It is definitely an amazing bridge between analog and digital.
The Standard information:
The Standard information:
- 32 x 16 x 16 'Insert Router' for up to 16 external hardware processing devices
- Hardware processors can be inserted via console controls or cross-platform drag-and-drop software browser
- Stereo or 5.1 EXT monitoring outputs with independent Main and Mini monitor control
- Hardware processors can be inserted individually or as 'chains'40 input Super Analogue summing console
- Stereo Aux Send and 4 x Mono Sends per channel
- 4 Stereo Returns with full stereo mix bus routing
- Dual Stereo Mix Busses with summing Inserts and reassign In Line' DAW monitoring with 'SuperCue' headphone mode
- Stereo or 5.1 External Monitor inputs
- Stereo digital I/O (S/PDIF, AES/EBU) with SSL converter technology
- iJack front panel Monitor input
- Heavy-duty external PSU16 analog line channels with two inputs per channel
- Artist Monitor output with independent EQ and monitor source selection
- Single button push flips control between the analog signal path and DAW software
- Multi-layer control of up to four DAWs simultaneously
- Ergonomically advanced hybrid hardware control surface
- Digital scribble strips for constant visual feedback
- Fader-linking for analog channels
- Additional motorized 'Focus' fader for simultaneous DAW/Console control
- 16 channel strips each with motorized fader and assignable rotary encoder
- Total Recall for analog console controls
- General purpose MIDI controller mode
- A-FADA or MIDI Fader automation
- Ethernet MIDI connectivity
- Simple drag and drop insert router page for configuring hardware device chains and loading inserts
- Intuitive cross-platform remote browser for system configuration and project management
- Cross-platform 'Logictivity' remote browser interface
- Programmable hardware buttons for sending standard USB keyboard commands
The "Dutch" Karlson 12
- By freddi
- Full Range
- 20 Replies
- has been a popular build in Europe and spoken of, like Karlson boxes in general, as playing very loud with very little visible cone movement.
I would assume its based upon Karlson's 2nd K12 with a distributed slot port which appeared around 1956 and published in the July 1958 issue of Popular Mechanics. Its 3 port slots are much larger than Karlson's K12 with 6 saw blade-width cut slits, so should have less velocity. The panel above the speaker baffle, fully perpendicular.
IIRC, there was a build some years back on Diyaudio, but I've not been able to locate the thread or post.
Article https://i.imgur.com/SBDGevY.png
Plan http://home.planet.nl/~ulfman/images/Plans/new12in.gif
Karlson's 2nd K12
a couple of Karlson's mid 1960's K12 - one apparently offered with a blank port panel
(the first pair are mine)
A down-scaled version of the "Dutch" Karlson 12
I would assume its based upon Karlson's 2nd K12 with a distributed slot port which appeared around 1956 and published in the July 1958 issue of Popular Mechanics. Its 3 port slots are much larger than Karlson's K12 with 6 saw blade-width cut slits, so should have less velocity. The panel above the speaker baffle, fully perpendicular.
IIRC, there was a build some years back on Diyaudio, but I've not been able to locate the thread or post.
Article https://i.imgur.com/SBDGevY.png
Plan http://home.planet.nl/~ulfman/images/Plans/new12in.gif
Karlson's 2nd K12
a couple of Karlson's mid 1960's K12 - one apparently offered with a blank port panel
(the first pair are mine)
A down-scaled version of the "Dutch" Karlson 12
3" FR speakers for micro stereo upgrade
- By kaameelis
- Full Range
- 70 Replies
I get second hand all in one box micro stereo with 3" speakers and sound of it really needs upgrade.
I made measurements in room from 1m and there are problems to solve. Room modes have very little influence and holes on 500 Hz and 1.2kHz are from speaker.
Black line is bass reflex port near filed and blue is speaker near filed measurement.
Port+box have very low Q, probably because air leaks, this can be easily fixed, but can help only increase very little in bass response.
My first idea was Alpair 5.3.
Speaker box volumes are 1,75 L what is very little but it cannot be increased.
Simulation of Alpair 5 in existing box with existing port ( 30 mm diameter, 80 mm length) give not best results, solid lines on image
Optimized volume configuration lines are doted, 3,58 L box, port 30 mm diameter, 80 mm length.
What other 3" FR speakers can be used with small bass reflex box volume?
If I increase port length in simulation to 140 mm change is to better but little.
I made measurements in room from 1m and there are problems to solve. Room modes have very little influence and holes on 500 Hz and 1.2kHz are from speaker.
Black line is bass reflex port near filed and blue is speaker near filed measurement.
Port+box have very low Q, probably because air leaks, this can be easily fixed, but can help only increase very little in bass response.
My first idea was Alpair 5.3.
Speaker box volumes are 1,75 L what is very little but it cannot be increased.
Simulation of Alpair 5 in existing box with existing port ( 30 mm diameter, 80 mm length) give not best results, solid lines on image
Optimized volume configuration lines are doted, 3,58 L box, port 30 mm diameter, 80 mm length.
What other 3" FR speakers can be used with small bass reflex box volume?
If I increase port length in simulation to 140 mm change is to better but little.
For Sale Texas Components Corporation - Bulk metal foil resistors / Z-foil resistors - TX2575 133Ω 0.1%
- By triodehunter
- Swap Meet
- 3 Replies
Attachments
Offset voltage in Lang 20W class A mosfet amplifier
- By metanastis
- Solid State
- 51 Replies
