After my fateful post re:LX Mini plan pricing, I did order the kit and plans from Madisound. Par for my course anyway, I decided to improve the WAF. Others have done 3D printing but I suspect they narrowed the focus a bit. These prints took a while and are (hopefully) cosmetic only. At least I’ve tried to make that way….
It’s not finished as I plan to incorporate a white wooden base (next time I would use a different filament color). And just to further my appreciation of “measure twice, cut (print) once” I managed to use the 6” flange OD as the bolt circle instead of the actual bolt circle. Damnit.
Z
It’s not finished as I plan to incorporate a white wooden base (next time I would use a different filament color). And just to further my appreciation of “measure twice, cut (print) once” I managed to use the 6” flange OD as the bolt circle instead of the actual bolt circle. Damnit.
Z
The shape of the woofer enclosure is nice.
Have you considered trying to incorporate a similar aesthetic into the high frequency pod? To my eye, there's a bit of discontinuity in that portion compared to your more graceful woofer section. Without actually modeling some shapes, I can't give much more direction though. And I realize you may not want to mess with the high frequency geometry as much, unless you can measure the result.
Another idea is printing a grille frame that covers the whole upper section. This could continue the basic geometry of the lower section.
Also, can you show a view from the back and side?
Have you considered trying to incorporate a similar aesthetic into the high frequency pod? To my eye, there's a bit of discontinuity in that portion compared to your more graceful woofer section. Without actually modeling some shapes, I can't give much more direction though. And I realize you may not want to mess with the high frequency geometry as much, unless you can measure the result.
Another idea is printing a grille frame that covers the whole upper section. This could continue the basic geometry of the lower section.
Also, can you show a view from the back and side?
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Thanks and yes. As much of a bummer as it was to find I’d used the wrong bolt circle diameter, I will take the loss and make a revision to the design all around (and perhaps choose another color).
Anyway, I had started this a while back and picked up a 3D printer that has a 235x235mm X/Y base. I upgraded it to a dual z-axis screw system and also extended the z from the stock 250mm to a verified 520mm (still not enough to make a single print). My first print was with 0.4mm nozzle and fine settings with a projected ~8 day print for the lower portion (435mm tall)…only to discover a glitch in the slicer program that stops at 115 hours.
So this first “rough” pass is just that. The nozzle is 0.8 and I lowered the fill to 15% to get the lower and upper “tower” to roughly 2 full days each.
As you can see from the backside, there are some printing anomalies. I modeled the plan design first and have strived to keep EVERYTHING the same dimensionally aside from the exterior of course. With a slightly larger footprint, this would be much cleaner design.
Anyway, I had started this a while back and picked up a 3D printer that has a 235x235mm X/Y base. I upgraded it to a dual z-axis screw system and also extended the z from the stock 250mm to a verified 520mm (still not enough to make a single print). My first print was with 0.4mm nozzle and fine settings with a projected ~8 day print for the lower portion (435mm tall)…only to discover a glitch in the slicer program that stops at 115 hours.
So this first “rough” pass is just that. The nozzle is 0.8 and I lowered the fill to 15% to get the lower and upper “tower” to roughly 2 full days each.
As you can see from the backside, there are some printing anomalies. I modeled the plan design first and have strived to keep EVERYTHING the same dimensionally aside from the exterior of course. With a slightly larger footprint, this would be much cleaner design.
By the way, the only reason I'm bringing up any of this is because I like what you've done so far. I don't want you to think I'm being critical of it. As you said, if you're going to have to reprint anyway, it's a good opportunity to tweak a little more.
I can't tell how much is just lighting, but it looks like there may be a little faceting in your model still. There's often a setting that adjusts that. The smoother things are the longer they take to render and export, so the default settings on that tend to be a little low.
I can't tell how much is just lighting, but it looks like there may be a little faceting in your model still. There's often a setting that adjusts that. The smoother things are the longer they take to render and export, so the default settings on that tend to be a little low.
No worries, I’m not taking it that harshly. I just wanted to share why I chose what I did. And had I the envelope to print the upper section in full, it would’ve been better.
As far as the faceting, it is definitely there. I’ve tried two slicers and they both exhibit that even on the finer settings. It is something I need to look at further. But I’m also eager to here these so some haste is involved.
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Jcris - my only retort is to compare it to the stock look 
I am indeed pleased with the printer. I jumped on the 3D printer bandwagon about a decade ago with Printrbot Simple. I still have it but at 6”x6”x6”, it’s limited. And there’s a squeal to one of the steppers that is too involved for me to bother with at the moment.
So I picked up a used Ender 3V2 from a work colleague, along with some accessories. I knew I wanted to do this design so I started upgrading fairly quickly. Dual Z was first (at stock height), then linear bearing on the Y. Then the extended 500mm dual Z kit (but how I mates the linear bearing allowed for an additional 20mm). And upgraded printhead “sprite” feed.
Printing the full piece at once would require a 267mm (10.5”) X/Y and a full 1m Z.
Z
I am indeed pleased with the printer. I jumped on the 3D printer bandwagon about a decade ago with Printrbot Simple. I still have it but at 6”x6”x6”, it’s limited. And there’s a squeal to one of the steppers that is too involved for me to bother with at the moment.
So I picked up a used Ender 3V2 from a work colleague, along with some accessories. I knew I wanted to do this design so I started upgrading fairly quickly. Dual Z was first (at stock height), then linear bearing on the Y. Then the extended 500mm dual Z kit (but how I mates the linear bearing allowed for an additional 20mm). And upgraded printhead “sprite” feed.
Printing the full piece at once would require a 267mm (10.5”) X/Y and a full 1m Z.
Z
For those interested, one the right was 30% infill, fine setting using a 0.4 nozzle (115 hour print when it stopped prematurely). On the left is the faster print, 15% infill with 0.8 nozzle. Two different slices but certainly the Prusa slicer leaves plenty of Z “seams”. Neither is perfect but both have the faceting around the perimeter.
I did "visualize" this last night but preferred the opposite: bulging/barrel/rounded-capsule/bullet, visually simpler.
Thanks. Yes, I had just opened the container, but I’ve done that several times and didn’t notice the difference.
I’ve learned a lot of what not to do and what I would change of course. To begin with, a core X-Y type printer and full 1m extension. And big spools.
Cutting the wood bases on the CNC router was a lesson too. I’ve a long way to go yet.
Z
I’ve learned a lot of what not to do and what I would change of course. To begin with, a core X-Y type printer and full 1m extension. And big spools.
Cutting the wood bases on the CNC router was a lesson too. I’ve a long way to go yet.
Z