Good morning all ,
Id like to swap out the speaker on my Dewalt work radio -Dcr020 as it sound muffled and dull compared to my previous standard kitchen radio .
im not sure if this existing speaker is multi range but It sounds too bassy so I need something that gives more midrange and treble .

Can any recommend anything ? I’ve had quick look online and there’s plenty out there inc ebay but I’m not sure about the ohms and wattage that I’ll need to abide too ?
Or if just go for a midrange like for like Will I achieve anything?
Thanks in advance , Scott .

Dear Friends ,

Does anyone know if this particular amplifier " Infinity Primus 6004a " can introduce any significant delay even if in ms at the Speaker Output .

I am using this amplifier and have a strange observation that my output at the Speaker is delayed .

Anyone knows why ?

Hi,

In one of my projects I will add a DC-blocker according to this article from Rod Elliott:

https://sound-au.com/articles/xfmr-dc.htm

See Figure 8 - Recommended Design

I’m wondering if it’s possible to add LED’s to light up when DC is present (and blocked by the bridge).
Is this possible?

Regards, Gerrit

SOLD

Price: $40 shipped
My hope is that someone can appreciate this because I don't want to throw it away.

This is a DIY kit from Power Physics that contains multiple amplifier boards, a power supply board, and various interconnects and accessories. I do not have spare time to dig into this kit myself, and I am not sure what the condition of all these parts are. I have every reason to believe they work, but I have not tried any of them.


Kit includes:
-one P500PFCR4 PN.368 power supply circuit board
-one A-404R5 amplifier board
-two A-404R6 amplifier board
-one A-1004 amplifier board
-aluminum headsink and chassis
-various interconnects and hardware
-two PDF files (attached to this post)

I do not post much on this board, but I have tons of references in the 12volt community and some other forums if you would like.

I have a TON of electronics and other stuff that I'm trying to clear out. See pictures of everything here:
https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-tqJ8QR/

Hi, a friend of mine has recently purchased the above speakers, that were made by someone.
They have the modded fostex drivers in.

Couple issues.
1. Hardly any bass
2. They don't seem that loud (tested and quieter than some standard 91db speakers)

Are there some simple obvious issues to address this problem.
Thanks in advance.

Hello, I'm trying to build a simple mono system on a budget. This far I have managed to find these parts quite cheaply:

Altec 416-8A
Altec 291-16A

and a Heathkit AS-101 crossover

The Heathkit AS-101 is supposed to be same as N800-8K that was ment for Altec Valencia speakers.

The N800-8K was designed for the valencia speakers and they use the Altec 416-8A with 806-8a compression driver. So both of the drivers where 8-ohms and I have a 8 ohm woofer and a 16 ohm compression driver now. I guess I could order a new 8 ohm diagram for the compression driver but since it seems original now I wouldn't want to spend extra on a new diagram now.

So my question is, would there be a simple way to mod the crossover so that it would work with the 16 ohm compression driver. Or is there even need or would it work as is with these drivers?

Heres the schematics:



Thanks!

Im building a 5-channel amp based on Purifi 1ET400 modules.
At absolute max it will need to deliver a total of 1000 W.

The Hypex SMPS1200A400 should in this case be sufficient?

Hi all, first post so apologies if I have the wrong area of the site or am asking something which has been asked before.

TLDR: Is there a sticky or list of available diy designs that are active? By active I mean able to be created today?

Searching through a lot of designs I see that various components are discontinued and hard to find. I live in NZ so getting my hands on parts is a bit of a nightmare although I can import from aus easily, US too although shipping can get costly..

I have good woodworking skills and can solder like a champ but i do not have thorough speaker design experience apart from a few subwoofers that i have designed myself using winisd. Hence why I want to explore tried and tested designs.

I have an array of subwoofers so do not need so much the low low end but I do like the idea of a 3 way design to cover the low end from 80hz up.

In terms of price range and performance I have been looking at the statements II. But as it is an older design I can't find all of the components easily. The mid driver is also discontinued.

So. I have a few questions.

1. Is there a list of diy designs that can still be made stickied somewhere that i can look through?
2. Are there any other designs similar or better in performance to the statements 2 that I can build? I am assuming that in the last 10 years speaker components have improved. So should I be looking at more recent builds?
3. Is there a woofer I can drop in for the discontinued NE123W-08 mid driver to be able to build the statements 2 speakers? Or do I need to remodel the cabinet and crossover?
4. Similar for the tweeter. Although it is available it is costly to ship from the stores with it in stock. Are there any alternatives worth looking into to upgrade the tweeter that are newer and more widely available? Again, do I need to remodel the cabinet and crossover if i replace?

Thanks all for your help. Look forward to contributing more over the coming years.

Chris

Have 24 hours to decide.
Should I get the

Dayton Audio DATS V3 Computer Based Speaker & Audio Component Test System
Or the
Calibrated Mic.

Budget is tight have been saving up for the mic for some time. Now. But then I see that Dats V3 can do what a calibrated Mic can do and more.
But I was really keen to get started with using REW and I dont think Dat V3 works with REW.

My application ?.
Testing drivers that come with flakey at best TS.
Building a 3 way speaker setup and box for my own use and entertainment as a hobby. And testing various builds like open baffle, sealed / ported etc.
I thought I would look into just getting a regular 5$ USB mic and using it with REW. Maybe create my own calibration file. Nothing Im doing needs to be super accurate. As this is just a hobby. But now I dont have the time. Have a friend returning from the US in a few days. And have to pick something like today.

Hello,
I am looking for someone that Lives in Berlin that can help with a Heavy eBay purchase. the seller only ships to addresses in germany and I cannot even bid in i believe. I would need someone to bid on the item on my behalf. pick up the item from the seller or, the seller might be able to ship to you. and then I would need it sent to the USA. I am willing to pay for someone's time and effort plus all cost's etc.
If you can help, please send me a PM and lets talk about it.


Zc

Hi
I am looking for either a board (dam) or a finished dac by Soekris. Would appreciate any offers.

SOLD



price: $40 shipped
My hope is that someone can appreciate this because I don't want to throw it away.

This is a matching set of power supply, a BASH 2.1 amplifier board, and a premplifier board with basic controls like subwoofer level and crossover frequency, volume, etc. I do not have the time to dig into this and I do not know the condition of the parts, but I believe they worked when I acquired them a while back.

Kit includes:
-one Indigo 620019 power input board
-one Indigo 640033 power supply board
-one BASH multimedia 2x100w and 1x200w amplifier board
-one Indigo DV2202F multimedia 2.1 pre-amplifier test module
-aluminum plate

I do not post much on this board, but I have tons of references in the 12volt community and some other forums if you would like.

I have a TON of electronics and other stuff that I'm trying to clear out. See pictures of everything here:
https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-tqJ8QR/

SOLD

Price: free, plus shipping

My hope is that someone can appreciate this because I don't want to throw it away. Maybe the parts might be worth something to you, even if the whole thing is not?

This is a mono plate amplifier with minimal markings on it. I know it's from Portland Audio Lab but I'm not sure what model it is or what the specs are. There appears to be a tone control or filter daughter board. The person I got this from was a tinkerer so I'm not surprised to see the granddaughter board too.

My best guess is this was in the low hundreds of watts range like maybe 200-400w based on comparing it to the Boston Acoustics V2000 plate amplifier that I have.

I do not post much on this board, but I have tons of references in the 12volt community and some other forums if you would like.

I have a TON of electronics and other stuff that I'm trying to clear out. See pictures of everything here:
https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-tqJ8QR/

Can someone please tell me which fuse holder I need for this IEC inlet?? Also explain why Schurter wouldn't include this with the IEC inlet 😕. Thanks in advance!

Schurter 4304.6091 IEC

Hi everyone,

I've recently started messing around with FPGAs, and, though this is possibly very naive, wanted to try my hand at digital class D. I found an IEEE paper titled A Class-D Amplifier with Digital PWM and Digital Loop-Filter using a Mixed-Signal Feedback Loop that I wanted to implement on an FPGA. However, the paper prioritizes power efficiency over fidelity, and (from what I can tell) neglects post-filter feedback. I've attached a block diagram illustrating essentially what the paper describes, but with post instead of pre-filter feedback. Though it still requires a high sampling rate for stability, the paper's approach relaxes the distortion requirements on the ADC, to a point where it seems hi-fi digital class D might be accessible to us DIYers, instead of being firmly locked behind expensive, proprietary chips like Axign's. I have little formal background in EE or control theory (I'm currently a Comp Sci student), so please call out any basic mistakes I've made or fundamental misconceptions I have. I would appreciate any feedback on the theory and, if its sound, further development of this project as the thread progresses.

I got the Alpine amp stated in the title from a family member and was told that he didn't know if it worked or not. After wiring it up and trying to turn it on the amp went right into protection mode. Yes my wiring was right I opened it up and a mosfet labeled N0D C25P20FR on spot D607 and one labeled N0E KCF25A20 bon spot D606 were busted. Would it be posible to bypass the protection circut or should I replace the part.

If I do replace the part the replacements I found only had the C25P20FR and the KCF25A20 labeled on the data sheet, would these work?

Hello, I'm a student in major electronics. I've learnt about amplifier already. I want to ask my circuit design below is correct or not, and are there any problems? Thanks for helping.

I have four completely unused connectors. The price I listed is a 20 percent discount from the listed price online. Will ship anywhere. I am new to this forum but I have a headfi account of the same name with some ratings and feedback.
A little bit about the connectors:
Duelund has developed a new RCA paper plastic-free Phono Plugs with a Gold plate. To complement their incredibly popular range of wires the RCA plugs marry amazingly well.
They are constructed from UP-OCC copper, UP-OCC stands for Ultra-Pure, Ohno Continuous Casting so you really cannot buy a better purity material when it comes to copper. They then go through cryogenic and demagnetizing treatments. The outer shell comprises of a natural fibre vacuum compressed paper similar to that used on their capacitors.

Hi, I have two SS D2905/9500 tweeters and I bought DATS V3 few days ago, so I'm quite new to measuring.
One of the tweeters is loud and clear and let's call it good (impedance peak around 900Hz so not really as it should be) and the other very quiet and no impedance peak.
Zma files in attach...any ideas what to do?

Hi folks,

I'm progressing a 4-way speaker design with dig. x-overs and DACs placed in each stereo speaker box. To feed them the digital signal, each Box is supposed to receive a coax stereo SPDIF signal sourced from a pre-processing DSP unit. The current (industrial) design only provides one (not reclocked) 75Ohm SPDIF Output using the SRC4382 TX+ signal from pin #32.

I want to do two things and am not certain if my implementation idea will work:

1. Reduce Jitter of the Output signals by reclocking (the TX+ output signal) with the available 24.576MHz low phase noise clock.
2. Feed the reclocked signal to two BNC-75Ohm koax outputs (one feeding each box).

So the question really is: (How) Can I do this with the TX+ signal from the SRC4382? I've read the data sheet and it seems as if the TX+ signal is TTL compatible, but I am still unsure if my idea would work:



Just for completeness: The sample rate is 48 or 96ks/s, the SPDIF input (driven by the buffer and a 75Ohm coax cable) has the same transformer in the input.

Thanks a lot for feedback, advice and recommendations!
Winfried

Hi everyone,

I have found this forum and was wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction on an erratic 'No Disc' error on a Sony CDP-XE530 (CD player).

On inserting a CD, I can hear the player trying to spin up the CD and it mostly fails to do so, after a while displaying 'No Disc'. I opened the case and noted that by putting a very small manual pressure on the 'spindle' on top of the CD tray during the spin up operation, the disc spins at normal speed, and is read fine. Once playing, all operations including skipping a track, etc, are normal. The pressure I mentioned was very slight, downward and in the direction of play (clockwise on the spindle), but really very little pressure at all.

The strange thing is, sometimes after stopping the disc, and then ejecting and reinserting it, it will spin up fine and can be played fine. On other occasions, on reinserting the disc, the problem reoccurs and it will not spin up itself.

The noise that can be heard when it tries and fails to spin up is mostly a slight 'slipping' noise, but sometimes it is more of a clicking noise.

I have tried disassembling the unit and cleaning the laser with Isopropyl alcohol but sadly this has not improved the issue. I had a quick look at the belt when I had the unit disassembled as I have heard this can sometimes be an issue. It looked in pretty good condition, no weak points and not degraded, although I don't know how tight it should be optimally. The remainder of the internals of the unit also look in good condition.

It seems a waste to dispose of the unit altogether as once a small pressure is applied to the disc spindle, it works fine. I would be very grateful for any help. I am a newcomer to fixing old audio tech but good at following instructions so would be grateful for any advice.

Thank you very much,
Edd

i am looking for advice / guidance regarding ltp degeneration amounts.
is it circuit / topology specific? is it just a designers choice?
what considerations need to be taken into account for choosing the degeneration amount?
in the attached cct, i currently use 9.5 : 1 degeneration. is this too much - too little?

Hello,

Does someone know the manufacturer associated with this logo ( letter "R" inscribed in rounded square ) ? It's an old capacitor with build date 1999 so we might need to jug our collective memory 😎. It's propably a Rubycon but the cap is too small to write in full. This cap was built at the beginning of the infamous "capacitor plague" era and I need to confirm it is not from an affected manufacturer.

It would be nice to have a table with manufacturer logos both current and historic, I found some "general equipment" ones of for ICs on the net but none specific to capacitors. Perhaps someone here knows of one?

Thanks in advance!
Joris

Hey guys!
I have a 5" 'subwoofer'. (SS-SW115 or SONY 1-529-260-11)
Here are the parameters:
Size: 5"/130mm
Impedance: 6 ohm
Power handling :70/140 W (RMS/Max)
Freq: 50Hz-4 500Hz
Intesnsity(SPL): 89 dB (1W/1m)

I don't have any more because its a Sony speaker...
I'm trying to make a copy of JBL partybox 110 🙂
What would be the average box volume? I know its not that easy to answer, but a rough value would be good....
Maybe a rough port size?
Also can I somehow import this speaker to WINisd? If yes, how?
thx 🙂

Hello everyone,

I am looking into building a DIY 300B power amp.

I was considering the idea of buying this "DIY AUDIO NOTE MEI SHU AN 300B Tube Single-Ended Amplifier PCB With Power Supply Board" PCB, which is basically a clone of the power section of the AN Meishu, and assemble it with high end components: AN/Tango/Tamura OPT (whichever I can find used at a decent price), Duelund coupling caps, carbon film resistors and all the good stuff)

Do you think it's worth or it'd be a waste of good components?

Thanks,
Marco

Hello folks,

I'm looking for a nanoDIGI 2x dig in 8x dig. out.

The remote control would be nice to have.

Colour doesn't matter, Power supply Cables (USB or SPDIF) are not needed.

I'm not looking for miniDSP 2x8, 2x10 or other multi analog out systems because external DACs are used.

Offers from Germany or other European Union countries are preferred.

Thanks and Regards,
Winfried

The following an excerpt from a current article. I had no idea their products could be so expensive. Another reason to love DIY!

“High-end Danish speaker and television maker Bang & Olufsen is confident it can defy a slowdown in the luxury goods sector partly because “the rich will only become richer”.

The brand, which counts musicians Alicia Keys and Lenny Kravitz among its customers, is seeking to become a major luxury player despite lacklustre sales among premium goods groups. A three-year boom in luxury demand has come to an end in recent months as customers cut spending on expensive items.

Chief executive Kristian Teär said the fact that the retailer, whose Beolab 90 speakers cost £110,000, had no meaningful competition in the premium space was an advantage that “will make us more resilient in downturns”, although he recognised he had to increase awareness of the brand. “

I have a friends Onkyo M-508 which is stuck in Protection Mode where the meter lights stay orange and refuse to go green. I took the covers off and it was totally full of dust and dirt. blew it all out with low pressure compressed air and cleaned the circuit boards with board cleaner but made no difference. I am no way knowledgeable enough in this sort of electronics to go any further with this so can someone recommend a repairer in the UK ( preferably South West as its too heavy for delivery unless desperate ) who can have a look at this please as its too good to be consigned to the scrap heap.

If you compare the "Feature" box in the Satori WO24 and the SB34nrxl specsheet, they seem to be identical … Is the SB34nrxl a "Satori" woofer, with under-cut pole piece, dual shorting rings, silver wires ++?

What do you think of the SB34nrxl?

I am tempted to use it in a JBL L-112 inspired 3-way monitor with a high-ish crossover around 800Hz, as its t/s-parameters is almost identical to the famous 128H in the L-112.

I am a bit worried, though, if the SB34's deep cone profile might be a problem with midrange frequencies (phase-distortion, early beaming, ragged response)?

Thoughts, anyone? Other L-112/128H alternatives in the same price range?

I've been looking at ways to control impedance swings as seen by the amplifier. Current state of the xovers.

The tweeter seems to be OK. I can play with the 10R0 as much as I like without any strange resonance problems 😉 So far anyway. Maybe be due to the 3R9 but the frequency response doesn't change so appears to be ok.

The woofer end was a bit different. Initial value of 10R0 there was 4R7 and no 100R across the L and C. The 4R7 was rather critical. Increase it and spikes down to 0R and peaks in the FR so wondered about how to damp the circuit, The 100R or some value across the L and C seem to be the best option.

The add ons are taking out the impedance rise from the cross overs. At the moment ignoring resonance humps it between 4 and any 6ohm up to 10Khz then a rise to 8 at 20Khz. Adding these bits has had no noticeable effect on phase from when I aligned it..

Some people say do not use these circuits across as they can result in short circuits. I don't see things quite like that but wonder how safe the above arrangement is likely to be.

No BS compensation. May be needed but Boxsim is too clever - as it is I might have more bass than I want due to room gain,

Hi!

The room placement and hifi gear talk on boards seems to concentrate on solutions for one listening spot. I'm trying to find a solution for my workspace where I work on different locations of the space. So rather than planing the system for one listening spot I would like to have as nice sound as possible across the room.

I would like to build the cabinets myself. I have a pair of altec 416a drivers and 805b horns. I would like to use single ended low power tube amps for the amplification.

I have been thinking about onken cabinets but it concerns me a bit that would they take too much floorspace. Another one I just found is the bit rarer altec A8 that would seem better fit since its so narrow and is designed to sit close to the wall. Any ideas on what cabinets would you choose?

The room size is 460cm (15ft) x 888cm (29ft)

The possible placements are basicly these? Most seem to think that placing the speakers into the corner is a bad idea, but I red an article where someone stated that if they are placed on corners it fills the whole room with sound instead of just one sweet spot? Any thoughts about this?





I love this image of Murakamis workspace. He doesn't seem to mind having the speakers in the corners...

Hi all I’d like to start of by saying what an awesome group this is, I am a complete novice to all this so please bear with me.
We originally purchased a pair of Devine artists B15 subs but found them very quiet (500w RMS) the tops just completely out powered them so upgraded the drivers to Fane 15XS the volume was instantly better obviously as they are 2x the rms but just don’t sound right (amp is crown xls3500).
I’d like to put these drivers in THAM15 enclosure’s and would like some real world input, I like the thams due to their size as we are limited for space and as I understand would be good for output, any input is greatly appreciated.

Hi,

I’m just wondering if it’s possible to find an external “unit” or “device“ for use as oscilloscope and possible spectrum analyzer for audio equipment (up to 100 Khz. would be sufficient) using an iPAD or even an iPhone as display/processor. I know there are lots of apps using the iPad’s microphone for this, but that is not what I’m looking form. I want a direct electric measurement from a circuit, perhaps even with 2 channels instead of one.

Did anyone make it this way? Can we buy it? Where?

Any sugestions will be highly appreciated!

Regards, Gerrit

If this review is supposed to be in a different section of this forum, please advise.


Introduction
As an avid audio enthusiast, I'm always on the lookout for equipment that strikes a balance between quality sound, versatility, seamless connectivity and pricing. Especially when it is ‘above average for value’. The Arylic B50 wireless stereo amplifier is a such a product that stands out on multiple fronts.

Design & Build Quality: The first thing that caught my eye was the sleek and modern design of the Arylic B50. Its compact size makes it suitable for various setups, blending effortlessly into any space. The build quality feels sturdy, ensuring durability without compromising its aesthetic appeal.

Connectivity: The B50 truly shines in its connectivity capabilities. Both wired inputs & outputs and wireless inputs & outputs, make the B50 extremely versatile.

Wired inputs:

• Phone IN
• Line IN: CDE player
• Optical IN (e.g. Xbox/PS4 or 5)
• TV via HDMI ARC
• USB
• DAC (for laptop or PC)

Wired outputs:

• Wired (passive) speakers for stereo
• Wired (active) subwoofer

Wireless input:

• Bluetooth (in receiver mode) for smartphone, tablet or PC

Wireless outputs:

• Bluetooth headphone
• Bluetooth speakers

Bluetooth transmitter mode: One of the standout features of the Arylic B50 is its Bluetooth capabilities for receiving audio, the ‘Bluetooth transmitter mode’, sets it apart. This mode allows the B50 to transform into a Bluetooth transmitter, enabling users to stream audio from the amplifier to:

• Bluetooth-enabled headphones, providing a personal listening experience without disturbing others in the room.
• A set of 2 Bluetooth speakers. So yes, it can even connect to two Bluetooth speakers for stereo!

aptX HD: The Bluetooth audio signal is supported by aptX HD and delivers high-definition (HD) sound quality wirelessly. This enhances audio transmission over Bluetooth with the transfer of 24-bit high-resolution audio files, which results in improved clarity, detail, and overall audio fidelity compared to standard Bluetooth codecs.

Phono In connection: A standout addition to the B50's connectivity options is the ‘Phono-IN’ connection. This dedicated input accommodates vinyl record players, allowing enthusiasts to directly connect their turntables without the need for external preamps. The inclusion of the Phono input caters specifically to vinyl aficionados, preserving the classic analog sound while seamlessly integrating it into a modern setup.

Sound performance: Where the B50 truly excels is in its sound performance. Delivering 50 watts per channel, this amplifier produces rich, clear sound with remarkable depth and detail. The audio quality remains consistent across various music genres, offering a well-balanced output that caters to both audio enthusiasts and casual listeners.

HDMI ARC Integration: What sets the Arylic B50 apart is its seamless integration with ARC technology. The ARC-enabled HDMI port establishes a two-way connection between the TV and the amplifier, enabling the transmission of audio signals from the TV to the amplifier without the need for extra cables. This integration simplifies setups, reducing cable clutter and ensuring a hassle-free audio experience for movies, shows, and gaming.

User-Friendly Interface: Setting up the Arylic B50 was a breeze. The intuitive interface and user-friendly app made the initial configuration effortless. The app's interface is clean and straightforward, providing easy control over settings, EQ adjustments, and source selection.

Value for Money: Considering its feature set and performance, the Arylic B50 offers excellent value for its price point. It competes admirably with higher-priced amplifiers while delivering a comparable audio experience and a plethora of connectivity options.

Conclusion: In summary, the Arylic B50 wireless stereo amplifier exceeds expectations, combining impressive sound quality, versatile connectivity options, and an intuitive user interface.
Especially the Bluetooth Transmitter mode is something special. As most Bluetooth devices are limited to be a Bluetooth receiver, the B50 can also transmit via Bluetooth. And it is even capable of transmitting to a pair of Bluetooth speakers to create Stereo!
Whether you're a music enthusiast or someone looking to elevate their audio setup, the B50 stands as a commendable choice, providing a seamless and enjoyable listening experience.

Hello.
I’d like to try an 2SK1058 / 2SJ162 amp and would like to get your recommendation.

I don’t need very much power because it will be for an active system.

I would like it to be as easy and reliable as possible and it could be a kit or an already built unit
.

Thanks.

Can someone tell ME the value of Z9 and Z10 on a bogen black max 450 ??

After moving to active semi-OB, selling my Jordan VTL folded for Wall Mount (no BSC loss) : "Pentaline". Automotive Paint. EAD100HD.

I have designed them for wall mounting :space saving and better bass (used w/o BSC circuit)

Same internal volumes as initial VTL with the following mods:

• Folded 30°
• Upper chamber with non // walls
• bitumen + light stuffing

Great full-range sound. Can run w/o sub, however sub is recommended if you want to listen at a high volume (50W max). 6 Ohms.

Equipped with EAD100HD (slightly better response curve than original JX92S).

Medium 19mm, automotive paint.

Cost of build inc. paint : 900€.

Based near METZ, France.

Hi. I am looking for the transformer specs for the outboard power supply brick of a PS Audio IVH preamp.

I bought the preamp for a ridiculously low price without the brick.

It attaches to the preamp with a 4 pin connector, but according to the schematic, only 3 are used, and the tranformer is a 56vct. No secondary voltages are listed.

It shows 4 diodes for the rectifier with what looks like 1N4501 (7v?).

So would it makes sense that the transformer may have a 28v secondary?

One Bottlehead Paramour transformer - custom(?) Hammond H300668 like this. Thanks!

I thought it was worth creating a specific title in case anyone else wanted to use these.

I've finished a design and want to look at power levels in xover parts - just what they are intended for. Bit odd that they appear to report in dB rather the volts and amps. Sums needed to convert.
Anyway I'm using Boxsim 2. The only source of these I can find is here. Maybe there is another???
http://www.boxsim.de/SpecialChassis.html
The instructions translate well

So follow them and Boxsim produces it's red line of death and complains about missing data - the usual that comes with a speaker. The initial problem seems to be that the load defaults to data as per the box design - assumes they have been measured in this box. Change that to inf. baffle before or after a load brings up an error message saying not a sensible thing to do as a boxsim chassis will set this as it should be.

Oddly when I download them I stitched one into the default project it loads every time it starts. I managed to include it in the xover schematic. Looked at this again. I had it set in common box but have corrected that and all still ok, All with the same V2 software.

Any chassis load seems to automatically set it common box. Easily undone but no help,

I've tried every combination of loading them I can think of and no luck. Maybe I am missing some method? Or it just wont work full stop.

Maybe some load method will work? Maybe different versions are available somewhere?

I have n.4 Selectronic R-core transformer 230 primary 24Vac secondary 30VA. 20€ each or 60€ for. They were professionally modded from dual 15Vac to a single 24Vac.

A simple minded folk here.

I want to implement latest Hypex 500 or Purifi Eigentakt to fit my living room for tv watching(LG OLED) with a couple of speakers and a center channel (all of which yet to be purchased, except the TV).
I have no audio gear so I want to avoid purchasing an expensive Pre Amp.

I thought I could get away with a VTV Amp build, but there is no volume/remote.

Is there any need for a Pre Amp besides volume/source control in this scenario?
Is there any way around purchasing a >1000$ Pre Amp?

Meir

What happened to the thread "The new ESS ES9039Q2M"? It was locked some time ago but now it seems to be deleted. Why is that?

5 years ago I design and made some PCBs for a stereo PCL82 build. I've a few spare PCBs left over that are free if shipping is covered.

Schematic attached.

There are footprints to allow for the various designs floating around (shunt feedback, global NFB, triode/pentode etc).

These couple well with the power supply board here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...erlin-design-free-just-cover-shipping.406657/

I've used this combination daily for 5 years. Works very well for a kitchen sound system.

HI .
I would like to buy assembled PCB for state variable electronic crossover

Final Round for the DDDAC1794-PBT
Link to Post on my Blog Site

I will run a last production batch of the DAC-Boards (not the main boards) for those who still want to upgrade their current DAC with more decks. Or want/need spares…
But only if we achieve minimum goals and parts availability. These are the “Rules”:

• I need a minimum of ~ 50 boards and availability of the parts.
• You need to subscribe in the Response Form – See below Form.
• If you subscribe it is a binding commitment as soon as the last time buy is confirmed (enough boards and parts)
• Last date for subscription is December 10th.
• If minimum level is achieved and components are available, I will confirm, and subscribers will be able and invited to enter a purchase order at the Audio Creative Website. You also WILL have to make the payment at that time!
• The Special Web Shop order option for the last time buy boards will stay open till December 20th to avoid dragging this on and on.
• If all orders are in and paid for, components will be purchased, and boards will go into production.
• Expected start of delivery is end of February / beginning March.
• No returns possible

You can enter here for the group buy:

Go to the bottom of the blog post and enter the form:
Link to Post on my Blog Site


and look for this form:




Doede Douma
www.dddac.com
blog.dddac.com

Hi

OK, this is a longshot, but maybe one of you have experience with this.

Background: I have some odd/random failures in a FB (full-bridge) classD amp based on IR2184.
I have build HB (half-bridge) version, with very similar setup, but without this kind of error, so I'm trying to figure out why the FB is failing.

The only direct connection from one half-bridge to the other is the 2 SD ( shut-down) pins of the 2x IR2184. In my amp they are tied together (and can be pulled down to Vss with a transistor). - Could that be problem? I have a decent layout, acceptable decoupling and very short critical tracks.
Im pretty sure that the error only happens on turn-on (maybe turn-off, but only detected at the subsequent turn on).
I use SD to disable the IR2184 until supply voltage is high enough, and to disable if current is too high.

I remembered seeing a similar FB in an Yorkville subwoofer amp, but in that product the 2 SD-pins are separated although they are activated simultaneously .


Maybe not clear in the picture, but the 2 SD-pins are not tied together.

The circuit that pulls the 2 SD-pins high:

Why have 2 branches doing exactly the same?

Implementation on PCB ( With through-hole components...)


The only reason, I can see, for splitting the SD-signals, is that there is some distance from one IR2184 to the other IR2184 and maybe Yorkville designers tried to avoid tracks from directly from one HB to the other HB?

Any ideas?

Note: YES, the IR2184 have looong deadtime and distorts. I get below 1% in my prototype and thats plenty fine for a 500W sub-amp.

Kind regards TroelsM

Some time ago I purchased rather cheaply a KEF centre speaker with a Uni-Q driver which had a dead tweeter. As a bonus I got two iQ3 boxes, minus the drivers, just the boxes and the xovers inside.
My search for Uni-Q drivers did not produce a positive outcome, the Oz distributor had no parts available, eBay offered overpriced and in uncertain state options. So more or less a dead end.

Enter the SB Acoustics coax range.
It turned out SB Acoustics are producing a number of coax drivers and one of them looked a good match, its cutout and overall diameter are a very good match for the existing speaker holes, have very suitable T/S parameters, good sensitivity and so on.
The model is SB16PFCR25-04.
Ordered through the local distributor, WES Components, and six weeks later the drivers arrived.

In the meantime I stripped the boxes from their vinyl wrap, sanded and spray painted white.
Covered the internal walls with soft felt.
Fitted the drivers, needed to drill two extra holes in the drivers' frame to accommodate KEF's front arrangement and oh, magic, everything fits.
As a first step decided to use the original xovers and see how that performs. Next steps will be to try SB's suggested xover, and them my favorite - a 1st order Series.
But that will be later.

As a customary habit I always measure drivers T/S parameters and also always run an impedance plot before proceeding to further tests.
What struck me is how smooth the drivers impedance is, I only tested the woof part, and how smooth the overall speaker impedance is with the original xover.

Have been using this tiny dac for a couple months now. I am very, very impressed with it. Dual chips with balanced output and Xmos XU208. All for less than $100. Unbelievable. Better than my Dragonfly Red.

I opened it up and took some pics. Thought I'd share.

Hi, not sure if I selected the right category or not, but am completely clueless when it comes to anything beyond basic audio knowledge. (essentially watts and bass vs. treble is about the extend). However, I am fairly handy and capable of building/wiring/soldering if necessary.

What I am looking to do is add an external speaker via 3.5mm aux port to an existing Bluetooth stereo and/or Coyote Caller. If it’s possible to make one and it would work on both, great…. If only one, I’ll take it.

My goal is to produce extremely high frequency sounds that are very crisp and clear, not sounding like a bullhorn/siren.

We have a coyote problem, and they used to come into the caller periodically, but I think they’ve learned to recognize the “speaker” sound, and I’ve read if you can get cleaner “high-pitched” realistic sound from a 20,000-40,000 hz tweeter, it can trigger them more easily.

My question is this: Is it possible to do a DIY high-end tweeter that is either powered by the 3.5mm Jack, or could be powered by an external battery/amp of some sort?

The devices I would like to plug it into are:

-Lucky Duck Revolt Predator Caller : https://www.luckyduck.com/the-revolt-e-caller/

-Anker Soundcore Motion Boom Plus: https://a.co/d/3T6eELs


Thank you so much in advance.

Looking to buy Aya Dac PCB if anyone is willing to part.

Thanks for looking.
Regards,
Som

Hi

Mr. Marsh's excellent capacitor article from years ago suggested that low-value C0G-NP0 caps were low distortion and acceptable for use in audio amps. It seems today that it is almost impossible to buy old-fashioned single-layer ceramic caps as everything is MLCC. If the value is <100pF and the dielectric is listed as C0G-NP0 is the cap still acceptable if it is also MLCC?

MLCC = multi-layer ceramic cap

so I thinking of mounting the chips to the heatsink in this fashion (pics below and please ignore the spacers. those are there temporarily.)

The L-shaped aluminum bracket dimensions are 1.2in x 1.2in x 0.125in. i can also get (if these are better):

• 2in x 1.2in x 0.125in
• 2in x 2in x 0.125in

I will be using some thermal paste for better heat tranfer.

thoughts? Thanks in advance.

edit1: The bottom of the bracket will then be mounted to the heatink. (just stating this so it's clear)

edit2: The metallic thing with the black markings/lines is a 14in x 6in x 4in heatsink.

Anyone have any experience troubleshooting one of these guys?

I picked one up today that is not behaving properly. When plugged in, the amber power light turns white, as expected; lights on front panel blink a few times as expected; then the power light turns red briefly, then goes back to amber.

When holding down the "Bass EQ (SERVICE)" button in the back, which should supposedly put it into service mode for the purposes of re-flashing firmware, instead of the lights on top turning on, the lights on front turn on instead, which is not indicated as expected behavior by the manual or firmware updating instructions.

It's also not obvious how to get the thing open. It appears it's held together with plastic clips, but I can only relieve tension on one of the edges.. I feel like I'm missing something, and likely to break the cover if I proceed.

Uffornica Homestage in concept
She is a premium home entertainment audiovisual item featuring home theatre decoding, music playback and live instrument inputs with an integrated mixer and amplification

I have been developing an all tube based front end for my upcoming commercial bass amp with the premise that a live player should sound like a studio recording and not boom clash brash. I named this instrument Uffornica. The name is alluding to things like euphonic distortion and the almost sensual satisfaction of gorgeous music. The bass amp has an aux input for play along tracks and pro speakers from a different audio industry, in a one box 2.1 arrangement. As I developed this project, I found that this bass amp is making many parts of my home entertainment and home studio setup redundant, e.g. front channel poweramps, subwoofer, mixer, USB music player, Bluetooth receiver and everything that goes into connecting them all together. See we enjoy plugging in an instrument or mic and jamming along whenever the urge hits us

This inspired me to separate the electronics from the amp cab and develop it further where it takes the main duties in my particular home setup and the resulting concept I am naming Homestage

Project objectives
Form the hub of home theatre and studio
Remove clutter
High quality audio components
Dressed worthy of such a centrepiece

Dress up
I would like to offer my criticism of audio equipment aesthetics. A web search for amplifiers brings up industrial or lab look in the industry. Usually hard silver or black units. This is so boring, everything really looks much like everything else. Whether in hi-fi or pro audio. The internet is littered with clone build projects. So many are trying to make their guitar amp or Bluetooth speaker look like a Marshal. Music is a beautiful thing. The makers of makers of music, in other words the instrument makers, totally get this. The instruments are things of beauty, featuring a massive variety of colours and aesthetic ideas. What these instruments and their recording pass through look boring

If she is worth the best effort of DIY, then she deserves the best effort to be dressed fine

My design process
Usually I form a 3D, detailed mental image of what to build. I call this MAD (mind aided design) and then I go on to whatever lengths needed to bring it into existence, marrying form with function. The second setup for me is to transfer the MAD design to a 2D drawing, which is called a general arrangement or GA. This allows me to then start developing individual parts and working out fit to scale the GA. Then I usually use CAD if required to draw plans or just do it from MAD

Many of the chassis components will be bespoke e.g. panels, knobbery, switchery, PCBs and light effects. Build material will feature fabrics, aluminium, brass, acrylic and wood. I will be emulating the look of a process known as Menakari for the knob colours, which a colour coded for ease of use. The lightening effects are to complement our home entertainment light effects as well as for ease of use in a darkish environment, much like Roland's Aira lineup. A Roland JDXI will sit to one side of this and a Roland MX1 to the other. Together with a Mac mini desktop and a large screen TV. These and our string instruments are all the items that I want to take up space in the living area

These are the GA 2D drawings of Uffornica Homestage, I'll refer to it as Uffornica HS as well

Hi all, trying to assemble a music system that a tri of year 4 primary schoolers may plug various instruments into for practice. This needs to double up as a bass amp for my daughter for her electric bass classes at school. She is used to the little sub plugged into our mixing desk at home and like me she hates the weak uninspiring sounds that the usual suspects in the music shop make in the sub $1500 mark. Our usual listening and playing stuff is West Indian including dub

For $35 I found a group of four Logitech 2.1 systems that included the one that was the same z623 model sub we use. Issue was that this one didn’t have the satellites in lot. The left satellite contains the controls and plugs into a DB15. The right satellite plugs into a dedicated rca. Rear panel also has rca and 3.5mm inputs. The missing satellite has another 3.5mm input as well as headphone out, bass level knob, volume knob

In that lot there were satellites from LG as well ones for the other smaller three subs

I have a little USB/battery powered mixer with Bluetooth, instrument in and aux in

Also have two Kemo M040n black box preamps, 18 volts of battery, 18v dc wart, 9v dc wart, pots and passives for passive tone controls, passives to build four sets of the MPF102 jfet pres from another thread

Add to the list some knobs, wheels, mdf, marine ply, upholstery fabric, carpet, retractable handle from bag

Hoping to fit the sub and a pair or two of satellites into another new box and something the gyals may plug things like electric bass, upright bass pickup, mic, electric guitar, electronic drum set, tablet and like. Basic controls to find basic sounds

First challenge is to decode the DB15 pinout. I know that the pins for discrete input for the sub section and standby from the net searches. Plugged into this pin with the little mixer and bass guitar sounds sweet but the loudness is absent. Swapping the satellites from the home system and plugging the mixer into that returns the loudness

Now I am going to try to cascade (is this the right word, please advise) one Kemo into passive bass and treble tone circuit assembled from net schematics. That will be followed by another Kemo. Both Kemo will have 10k pots on the input lead. I’ll plug the bass into this and hook it to the sub direct pin and see if I can get acceptable volume and tone control

Hoping this works, then I’ll have the starting of a bass amp that my kid may find inspiring and satisfying to play

Next thing to attempt is finding the direct ins for main speakers amps in that DB15. For this I will need to make or buy a three instrument channel plus stereo mixer and 2.1 filter

As a side I have been curious about the MPF102 jfet. I have some and the parts needed to build some internet schematics. First attempt at building from random schematics as well as trying to learn about circuits like these pres ans mixers

Hope to find some assistance here if I get stuck. Thanks and regards

Randy

Hello all
I am thinking about making a sound bar type unit using three drivers only but still getting a stereo sound overall

I have a 10" driver with dual voice coils each 4R and a pair of 3" full range drivers that work happily when run in an active 2.1 setup. I would like to use these drivers with only a 2 channel amp and using a passive crossover on each voice coil of the woofer to run a full range

I have a two channel power amp board with a built-in mains power supply and has aux power outputs for preamps as well as fans. Insterested in making a custom tone control to control level matching between the drivers over using another amp to run them in 2.1

Most of the bass should come from the woofer so the passive crossover should be around 500hz

Is this kind of setup possible?

Opinions please 🙂

Hello,
I am new to this forum and apologize if I am in the wrong section.
I need help. As the title reads, I have a ppi amp that powers up, appears to be spotless inside, nothing looks burned or smells fried. I got it this way. I know it isn’t anything on my side because I swapped it for my other amp that is identical and works in that vehicle, this one just has no sound.
I am an HVAC Technician but this is beyond my skill.
Any easy fix would be awesome or if you know someone that could fix it for me, I wouldn’t mind paying. I prefer old school amps.
Thanks,
Scott Murphy

Recently i cam across the AP7311 is used in my 5.1 home theater system from true sound waltz. This is has inputs from aux/dvd etc and output goes to power amplifier. Clock and data lines going to sp3306 mcu. This AP7311 has 28 pins. This IC seems to be prologic decoder with audio analog input selection and digital volume controller. Can anybody help me in identifying this IC exactly what it is. Will be thankful if somebody share its datasheet as well.

Just quick questions:

What is the roll-off frequency of a transmission line and is there any difference between one without filling and with filling?

Does the taper change the roll-off?

Hey guys!

I have finally gathered confidence to design my first own crossover from the little knowledge i gained. would you please help me maybe improve on the design or give me some suggestions. I have tried to crossover the speakers at 200 and 2000Hz.
These are the drivers that i am using!
Tweeter: https://www.soundimports.eu/de/monacor-dt-100.html
Mid Driver: https://www.soundimports.eu/de/scan-speak-18w-8545-01.html
Bass Driver: https://www.soundimports.eu/de/scan-speak-25w-8565-00.html

Thank you very much in advance. keep in mind that this is my first crossover.

All items are in perfect condition and working order. Prices include postage to UK, overseas please enquire

TKD 4CP2500 Balanced 4 channel pot mounted on PCB, hardly used - SOLD

Academy Audio VCU MUSES all in one volume control, single ended very lightly used - SOLD

AMB E24 power switch driver kit, includes momentary power switch and power supply SOLD

(please move this thread to the new Horns forum when possible 🙂 )

It's a K-horn, which is short for Korner horn or Klipsch Horn depending on who you ask. The original was designed and produced by Paul Klipsch around 1946 and the rest, as they say, is history. https://www.klipsch.ca/blog/klipsch-down-low-horn-speakers

The design was licensed by the British company Vitavox and 20+years ago plans derived from the Vitavox version found their way to Ontario where various models were produced (and I know of an enthusiast who's still active and who helped build the boxes that now sit in my basement).

They are capable of good imaging so one need not be afraid of corner-situated speakers: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/corner-horn-imaging-faq.248444/

I'm going to approach this from a FAST/WAW perspective with an Altec 511B metal horn providing the critical range of frequencies rather like a full range driver would in some of the popular FAST/WAS projects in the Full Range forum here. The driver on my 511B horn is the Altec 808-8a CD.

The box defines the woofer horn, so the only part left to play with will be the X-over and here there are many opinions.

FYI - I had originally turned down the opportunity to re-store these speakers after realizing it was boxes only with no drivers or metal horn and they are darn heavy but I was told that they sounded very good. Stereophile has this to say about the modern version "No one with a taste for realistic playback, and especially no one with a taste for low-power amps and high-sensitivity speakers, should miss a chance to hear these." https://www.stereophile.com/content/klipsch-klipschorn-ak6-loudspeaker

Hello there.

I have a Motorola Moto G9 Power that I will no longer use and I can use it for Spotify/Tidal. The screen doesn't work very well.

Wondering if the DAC is good enough for CD quality. Is it?

OTOH, if there is interesting software to install please let me know. Something that works like a streamer.

Hello!
I've recently 'repaired' an ARC D70. It was victim to a catastrophic failure, with the filter caps shorted with signs of arcing, a bias cap bulging and a blown 6550 tube. After replacing all the electrolytic's, a couple tubes (and re-biasing, of course) and some burnt out resistors, it sounds amazing!
The only trouble is that it makes a short zappy 'hum' on startup while it warms up (faulty thermister perhaps?), and every time you turn it off, there is a loud thump/pop in the speakers. I would assume since this beast has very complex (at least for me) power supply design, that this might not be normal operation- especially the shut down pop.
I'm running an attenuator from my source to the inputs, so no preamp to blame.

Any suggestions?
Schematic attached.

What's on your audio or workshop Christmas list:

Me, I would like a new Weller Soldering Gun.

I'm looking for recommendations for ouput transformers for an EL84 push-pull amplifier.

• The schematic calls for 8k and I need 8 ohm output, with a 4 ohm output being nice to have but not strictly needed.
• Solid bass performance required to 20Hz. Poor/lightweight bass performance is not acceptable.
• Rated 15 watts (or more) I suppose.
• Ultra-linear is not needed.
• I cannot use toroidals. They need to be a traditional transformer with end bells and wire leads.
• I do want a very good transformer, but I don't want to spend a million dollars on a pair either. I know there are some very expensive names out there.

I am looking for a solid performer that will not be light on the bass. A lot of transformers are available from China, but you never know what you are going to get, and most are only rated down to 30Hz which usually means closer to 50 or 60Hz in reality.

What high quality OPTs are currently available? Most links that I find no longer work or the product is no longer available.

WTB: BB OPA634AM in metal can.

Put simply, I have filtering caps run in series that need appropriate balance resistors. The set up is this:

• Two sets of two 270uF, 420V(max) caps connected in parallel.
• Those two sets are connected in series
• In effect, I have 270uF rated for 840V
• Using the following formula:
  
  
• and with the values:
  • n = 2
  • Vrated = 420V
  • Vbus = 497V
  • Imax_D_leak = 3 x sqrt(270uF x 420V) = ~0.001A (assumes no leakage in one set and maximum leakage in the other)
• I get an Rbalance of 343K

Here's the thing, I see a lot of schematics that have somewhat similar configs. They typically use either 100K or 220K ohm resistors (Merlin's PSU book recommends 50/C, which gives a conservative 95K). Few give ratings, and they range from 1/4W all the way up to 5W.

IMHO, the nearest common value for optimal balance resistors would be 1/2W, 330K ohm. Unless I calculated wrong, or am missing something?

I have read information for some time now, including topics on this forum. But I haven't found an answer yet. I want to use a set of 4 ohm tweeters in my car, high passing at 3500hz with at least 12db. I have looked at a Linkwitz Reilly crossover design and I got values of 5,69uF and 0,36mH. Here's the thing though. It's a budget build and the inductors I have found and are not said to be of mediocre quality (vented core copper for example) cost a lot of money. If need be for good quality sound then I will pay the money. But I was wondering if anyone has any knowledge how I could do this cheaper without much quality loss? I'm hoping not having to spend 30 to 40 dollars on a set of 2nd order high pass filters.

Trying something different, trying to figure out if this sort of thing is useful to make.. or ditch the whole idea. might try some things before i ditch it completely. i am thinking of making a higher one and using 2 coils for mid and 1 that reaches to 18khz.... making vertical dispersion as good as this one... maybe... interesting. while having much more surface area for mids !

here is a small video Login to view embedded media

Hi, from a surplus 1kg pack I got the following interesting parts:

1: Resistor, presumably hermetically sealed mil-spec.
Marked "Rdm1" with an Omega inside a delta

2: unknown, RTV covered, glass substrate, 4 terminal.
no significant capacitance between any terminal.


Anyone?
Thanks!

I just picked up 3 boxes of WWII radio repair parts that have never been used. Mainly tubes, transformers, resistors, and can caps. All of it is NOS so are the caps no good?

Does anyone have a schematic for a Counterpoint Solid-2 power amplifier you would be willing to share? Thank you very much.

Hello everyone!
I'm looking for the English versions of the Telefunken M15 and M15A Handbook, Operations and Service Manuals.
Actually, I'm looking for any documentation for the Telefunken M15 and M15A in English, even brochures.

I have a Telefunken M15A in working condition that needs to be serviced and calibrated. I have scanned PDFs of the Handbooks and some other documents in German but it's very difficult to translate and understand what you're supposed to do, especially because the manuals are not as straight-forward as Studer manuals.

@tmuikku I read a post on the groupdiy forum that you have these manuals scanned and asked that anyone else that needed the manuals should reach out to you on diyaudio. If you still have the manuals and don't mind sharing them, can you please send them to me?
I'm, posting this publicly so that other people can find this info more easily. Ultimately, if you don't mind, I would like to publish all documents and manuals somewhere where they will always remain publicly available for everyone, possibly on GitHub in a public repository.

I believe that one of the reasons why Studer machines are more popular than Telefukens is the better written and easily publically available documantation about them. Also, my current impression is that the Studer groups and forums have more people that want to help eachother out. I would like to change that and find a way to help other people with Telefunken machines.

Hey DIYers',

I've got a CR-820 which has a problem upon cold start-up - after the protection relay engages, the first 5 seconds of using the volume knob produces loud static noises. I need to wait a while to reproduce the issue, hence cold start-up only.

I have a feeling it's a capacitor - DC voltage on the pot would explain the noise, cap charge and discharge time would explain why the problem fades and then doesn't return until the amp is cold again.

Am I on the right track? Any tips on where to starting looking would be appreciated!

http://akdatabase.org/AKview/albums/userpics/10007/Yamaha CR-820 Service Manual.pdf

Background

With a halfway decent sound system, I started looking for new music to listen to. "New" meaning music I have no heard before, and that would mean a trip to the 1970s over again, where the music I like originated. As part of my journey, I came across, or to be more accurate, searched for and found Bostons song and "More Than A Feeling" and their also album "Third Stage" on my streaming provider. Interest in the band led me to watching an interview with Tom Sholz, who basically founded the band, and created that guitar sound that we all know and love. He said something intriguing: that he could never get the CD recordings to sound as he wanted them to sound.

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...l-insights-as-a-producer.398525/#post-7331773

He said he found it difficult to mix for the CD format, and he was able to come up with a final recording that 'did not annoy him too much' as I recall he said.

If there really a problem with the CD format, then I should think of buying some other format. Maybe vinyl. Vinyl had that clarity, but it never impressed me with its bass output. The cassette tapes I have are now beyond restoration, at least to the level of quality I can now hear on the mp3s and CD recordings.Playing a CD or two, I could hear a somewhat metallic ring to the sound (I am able to detect the difference between some Digital amplifiers and Analog amplifiers over You Tube, so the effect is real)

Listening to the dreaded Crosley turntable reviews over YouTube again, I was able to hear a clarity that was pleasing: I knew of course better turntables connected to better systems would sound much better, and I was intrigued. I have ordered my first turntable and a record to test it with as well, it is, shall we say, a turntable that is not really recommended by anyone here. Think Crosley and you are not far from the truth. My journey has begun, it seems, hopefully not a false step.

From watching reviews of the lowest end of the turntable market (There was one reviewer who purchased a turntable for $10, it sounded ok but let's leave it at that), I was directed by YouTube to the very highest end of the market, it seems, the OMA turntable:

Login to view embedded media
I was listening to an incredible story. From the thousands of hours of research, to the cast iron casing, only 1 in 10 is acceptable, a powerful direct drive motor, and a dedicated motor controller, I could not believe the amount of money and effort that had gone into this design.

Was there a better way?

A Possible Solution

The main problem that seem to plague the turntable are variations in speed of the turntable and vibrations. You can add surface noise to that as well.
One approach is to maintain the speed of the turntable no matter what. The other is to try to correct for these variations. Immediately there is a problem, as OMA has pointed out, the variation in speed changes the character of the music itself.

Is it possible, and I know it is possible, I should ask how successful is it to use a method used with CD players and digital music, to convert the signal into digital format, and then store this signal in blocks of data for processing and correction, and then output that data to the amplifier at exactly the correct speed? The corrections will have to incorporate the following.

1. Corrections for wow and flutter using a turntable speed sensor as input
2. Corrections for surface noise from a 'surface noise library' that matches the surface noise pattern

Apparently there are some related patents:

https://patents.google.com/patent/US3983316

https://patents.google.com/patent/US3873764

Has this ever been attempted? If not, anyone on this forum may develop this further, I only ask that the idea be acknowledged, that it came from me in this post.

Hello all,

I have a Sony CDP 228 ESD with a problem in the CD reader.
Was bought en ebay a month ago and worked well while.Now CD is not recognized.
The loader tray works well, but the disc does not rotate, the laser head moves several times trying to focus, but the disc only rotates a quarter of a turn or less, and it goes like at intervals
I had read about pickup laser KSS151A,check corrient laser.
I have been able to measure the current of the laser while it tries to focus the disk for several seconds,then goes off. Its current is 54.06 mA, (the laser sticker indicates 51.3 mA)
Based on this, the laser appears to be within its life span (less than 10 mA increase)


But the first question that arises in my mind.
Could it be the CD spinning motor or could it be the laser ? How to rule out spining motor or laser head to begin?

Thanks in advance and regards

I have an old quad 33. It worked initially, but now it can be silent in right channel for a long time and suddenly it comes back. It happens once or twice a week lately. Any suggestions?

Sudennly I came with an error streaming through foobar2000 to Moode. Can't stream at all, Anyone can help?

Thanks