Good morning all ,
Id like to swap out the speaker on my Dewalt work radio -Dcr020 as it sound muffled and dull compared to my previous standard kitchen radio .
im not sure if this existing speaker is multi range but It sounds too bassy so I need something that gives more midrange and treble .
Can any recommend anything ? I’ve had quick look online and there’s plenty out there inc ebay but I’m not sure about the ohms and wattage that I’ll need to abide too ?
Or if just go for a midrange like for like Will I achieve anything?
Thanks in advance , Scott .
Id like to swap out the speaker on my Dewalt work radio -Dcr020 as it sound muffled and dull compared to my previous standard kitchen radio .
im not sure if this existing speaker is multi range but It sounds too bassy so I need something that gives more midrange and treble .
Can any recommend anything ? I’ve had quick look online and there’s plenty out there inc ebay but I’m not sure about the ohms and wattage that I’ll need to abide too ?
Or if just go for a midrange like for like Will I achieve anything?
Thanks in advance , Scott .
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What about a coaxial like the one linked below? The tweeter should add some upper frequencies. You'll probably need to stick to 8 ohm nominal impedance for the speaker as per the original, so a car audio coaxial (which are usually 4 ohm nom.) might over stress the amplifier and therefore isn't recommended.
https://www.nonsolospeakers.com/coa...l-driver-with-34-silk-dome-tweeter-8-ohm.html
https://www.nonsolospeakers.com/coa...l-driver-with-34-silk-dome-tweeter-8-ohm.html
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A whizzer on such a small driver does not really make sense.
Looks like a 4-4.5” FR. Lots of possible choices.
What is the box loading for the existing driver?
dave
Looks like a 4-4.5” FR. Lots of possible choices.
What is the box loading for the existing driver?
dave
First you need to assess if that aspect is coming from the speaker driver. Have you connected this radio up to a different speaker set? Does it sound great? Before you go off and invest in some metal alloy cone FR speaker, only to find it's the radio...
Whoever designed it likely EQ'd the **** out of the audio signal, as it has to sound good on a job site with power tools running alongside and operate on the tool battery for a reasonable time, considering a work day. Certainly a different environment than a kitchen or living room. You may want to investigate that.
I had one I thought I was going to use as a PA for park bench singing and playing. So bad sound, I gave up on it, sold it on ebay - Since, I came across an older, pre-bluetooth Harmon-Kardon Go+Play, which sounds infinitely better and is about the same form factor. It doesnt, however, run on or charge the tool batteries which I assume is a key selling point.
I’d be willing to try another speaker before investing in a new one as it might not be the speaker itself as suggested by jjasniew above , just need to make sure I’m not going to damage anything .
is there a tolererance on the ohms and wattage that I could use / try ?
is there a tolererance on the ohms and wattage that I could use / try ?
If you are going to continue using the radio as a workplace device, I suggest you research to see if the existing radio speaker unit is designed and/or manufactured to resist environmental conditions, primarily dust and similar physical contaminants, as well as moisture/humidity, and high heat.
FWIW, I have an early Sony portable radio that was advertised as being rugged used to outdoor conditions, and included a water-resistant treated paper cone.
FWIW, I have an early Sony portable radio that was advertised as being rugged used to outdoor conditions, and included a water-resistant treated paper cone.
It will be a work radio but my trade is fairly clean and it won’t be getting wet or trashed as such like many that I’ve seen , I’m not on site working , just domestic properties so clean and habitable .
I've had a couple of these work radios apart (admittedly only Makita and Milwaukee examples) and I'm not sure there's a lot of careful design behind them. Usually there's almost no box volume, they leak at multiple places (although there is some attempt to seal the box) and the speaker appears to be EQ'd to boost bass. I just thought it was worth a try with that coaxial or similar as this unit only has one driver, so it isn't that expensive an experiment if it doesn't work.
That said, maybe they do have a driver made for the purpose (tiny volume) and I could be wrong. Some of them sound OK, although apparently designed not to grate at high volumes hence the mellow sound, as some workers would be right next to it and some far away.
That said, maybe they do have a driver made for the purpose (tiny volume) and I could be wrong. Some of them sound OK, although apparently designed not to grate at high volumes hence the mellow sound, as some workers would be right next to it and some far away.
Mine was bright yellow and it seemed that a lot of the design was done for visual appeal. Thin walled plastic enclosure, surrounded by a hefty metal bar cage, giving it the appearance that you could drive your F150 over it. They even had an elaborate system of rubber puck isolation to mechanically float the flimsy cabinet part inside the cage structure. Like it was supporting an engine for a gas generator...
Inside they just bought their way out of anything to do with the AC / charging system, as the powersupply looked like a fully metal enclosed OEM unit. The rest looked like the guts of a typical boom box, sans tape transport. Considering the effort to put it all back together, I'd wished I'd never taken it apart.
I'd have to believe there's somewhere on the WWW an analogous forum to DIYA, maybe "DIYBoomBox" consisting of fans of such sound amplification / reproduction systems, as I've seen the vintage 'boxes go for some real money on ebay. Some of those must need speaker repair / upgrade, particularly units being 30 - 50 years old. One would think such discussions - somewhere - would be abundant.
Just try putting in series LCR filter with the existing driver:
2.2uF, 5 ohm, 1mh
And put some damping foam inside the box. Best is fixed foam 2 or 3cm thick on all internal surface.
Or some white baf wadding in the middle of the box if you have no foam at hand.
2.2uF, 5 ohm, 1mh
And put some damping foam inside the box. Best is fixed foam 2 or 3cm thick on all internal surface.
Or some white baf wadding in the middle of the box if you have no foam at hand.
Yes, they show old boom boxes on their meetings. No modern type Bluetooth boxes. Small group but exists!
https://boomboxery.com/forum/thread...-international-boombox-meet-2018.28049/page-3
https://boomboxery.com/forum/thread...-international-boombox-meet-2018.28049/page-3
Visaton drivers are not bad in general. But they are the exact example of german engineering: squeeze everything from simple and cheap materials.
My selection would be polypropylene waterproof cone drivers, like this one https://www.visaton.de/sites/default/files/dd_product/FR 10 HMP_4880.pdf
My selection would be polypropylene waterproof cone drivers, like this one https://www.visaton.de/sites/default/files/dd_product/FR 10 HMP_4880.pdf