Hey guys!
I have finally gathered confidence to design my first own crossover from the little knowledge i gained. would you please help me maybe improve on the design or give me some suggestions. I have tried to crossover the speakers at 200 and 2000Hz.
These are the drivers that i am using!
Tweeter: https://www.soundimports.eu/de/monacor-dt-100.html
Mid Driver: https://www.soundimports.eu/de/scan-speak-18w-8545-01.html
Bass Driver: https://www.soundimports.eu/de/scan-speak-25w-8565-00.html
Thank you very much in advance. keep in mind that this is my first crossover.
I have finally gathered confidence to design my first own crossover from the little knowledge i gained. would you please help me maybe improve on the design or give me some suggestions. I have tried to crossover the speakers at 200 and 2000Hz.
These are the drivers that i am using!
Tweeter: https://www.soundimports.eu/de/monacor-dt-100.html
Mid Driver: https://www.soundimports.eu/de/scan-speak-18w-8545-01.html
Bass Driver: https://www.soundimports.eu/de/scan-speak-25w-8565-00.html
Thank you very much in advance. keep in mind that this is my first crossover.
also where would zou consider a good rollof for low be at ? so the voices sound good ? thanks
The best start is measuring, believe me!
It's needed to spend a lot of money, for example buy a cheap Behringer ECM8000 at Thomann https://www.thomann.de/intl/behring...dXJyZW5jeSI6MiwibGFuZ3VhZ2UiOjEzfQ==&reload=1 for 35€ & use ARTA free download https://artalabs.hr/download.htm
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With ARTA free download you can't save the measurements but you can see the results an make on screen print to save as photo.
Also you can use other free software to do measurements like REW https://www.roomeqwizard.com/
I used both, once started & liked ARTA I bought the key license but was not expensive.
Also you can use other free software to do measurements like REW https://www.roomeqwizard.com/
I used both, once started & liked ARTA I bought the key license but was not expensive.
But...I see it's a 3rd order type...slope!?
X-over basics tells that [3rd order filters are chosen for their higher protection of the drivers, than 2nd or 1st order, because(it should prevent shouting of the driver out of its working band, i.e. less distortion) of it, it's used in professional...]
And ... targeted response ..if it means something, should take care of electrical filter and driver response all together, I mean, the good ol' way
X-over basics tells that [3rd order filters are chosen for their higher protection of the drivers, than 2nd or 1st order, because(it should prevent shouting of the driver out of its working band, i.e. less distortion) of it, it's used in professional...]
And ... targeted response ..if it means something, should take care of electrical filter and driver response all together, I mean, the good ol' way
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What strikes me is an odd choice of drivers with the expensive Classics and poopy tweeter. Unless you are not worried about value for money, maybe you could think about different drivers with easier responses for a first design, e.g. Discovery level or similar that might allow lower order filters. You could probably get all the measuring gear you need from the money saved on drivers and extra crossover parts.
Well, I read "The Classic 18W/8545-01 has a frequency response of 60-2,200 Hz, which makes it well-suited for reproducing the mid-range frequencies in music. It has a sensitivity of 86 dB"
So this leads to a quasi-subwoofer combo, since I might take the "60-2,200 Hz" as my -3dB reference BW and where to cross. Active filtering of subs and satellites seems realistic
So this leads to a quasi-subwoofer combo, since I might take the "60-2,200 Hz" as my -3dB reference BW and where to cross. Active filtering of subs and satellites seems realistic
Just from a frequency balance standpoint and depending on your tastes, reducing the broad hump in the midrange is probably advisable. It will likely be a forward/bright speaker as it is. Some people like that, but for me that produces listening fatigue. Honestly, even flat through the midrange is often too much. Many times I prefer a dip in the 3-4 kHz range, but that's best determined by listening, not looking at plots.
Your lowpasses on the mid and woofer filter responses seem to be peaky/higher Q than a textbook filter. I'm not sure if that was intentional. If not, including target curves you try to match can help you see that, since you often have to deviate from textbook values to achieve the desired acoustic result (since you're dealing with varying impedance and frequency response in real life). On bandpasses, things also tend to be a little weird due to interactions between crossover elements.
Given my first comment above, I would typically try to deal with balance issues in the crossover by adjusting things away from textbook values also. If you move the tweeter cross point up a little and make its roll-off more gradual, you can likely flatten its overall response a bit. Same approach on the midrange low-pass: move it down a little and make it more gradual. This could be just changing the values in your current design or adding some resistance in the right spots (temporarily add resistance in series and in parallel to crossover elements in your model, adjust them up and down and see what they do).
Keep in mind that suggestions from a distance are always theoretical. In the end I can't hear your speaker and am not in your model, so perfect advice isn't likely.
Your lowpasses on the mid and woofer filter responses seem to be peaky/higher Q than a textbook filter. I'm not sure if that was intentional. If not, including target curves you try to match can help you see that, since you often have to deviate from textbook values to achieve the desired acoustic result (since you're dealing with varying impedance and frequency response in real life). On bandpasses, things also tend to be a little weird due to interactions between crossover elements.
Given my first comment above, I would typically try to deal with balance issues in the crossover by adjusting things away from textbook values also. If you move the tweeter cross point up a little and make its roll-off more gradual, you can likely flatten its overall response a bit. Same approach on the midrange low-pass: move it down a little and make it more gradual. This could be just changing the values in your current design or adding some resistance in the right spots (temporarily add resistance in series and in parallel to crossover elements in your model, adjust them up and down and see what they do).
Keep in mind that suggestions from a distance are always theoretical. In the end I can't hear your speaker and am not in your model, so perfect advice isn't likely.
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Well, for me a 7" is a woofer, so I still stand for a sub-sat combo with active filtering & amplification idea. About ideas...I was thinking of sub-sat intelligent filtering relative to SPL, where you ( or by itself, psychacousically!!) can vary the crossover point. I guess it would be 50-200 Hz>>Power set to 1-100W.
For my liking, a 7" Is a big woofer so to find a similar speaker I would choose a smaller one, like the Kartesian Wom 120 or Lom 120 (SB acoustic has a "midrange" but it's in the same league as the SS), then a 6 inches woofer
For my liking, a 7" Is a big woofer so to find a similar speaker I would choose a smaller one, like the Kartesian Wom 120 or Lom 120 (SB acoustic has a "midrange" but it's in the same league as the SS), then a 6 inches woofer