Have to fix my Quad ESL 57
- By legopart
- Planars & Exotics
- 189 Replies
Have such condition,
got them last month and they sound crackling on high volumes on some cheenies amp.
one them makes the amplifire set to "defense mode" when the sound to high volumes
First I want to set why it happening?
I suspect first of all the:
- Tweeter (Squeaker?) to turn off (unsolder it connections)
- Replace the Sound Transformer from another speaker
- Replace the Bias Transformer from another speaker
Need a lots of help here, how to restore and fix it.
In addition I searching for another amp,
At this moment I have:
- some chinies Lepy
and some receivers like Sony STR-DN1080 and some Piooner
In addition: how to disscharge it, without waiting one day after each procedure?
thanks for any help!
got them last month and they sound crackling on high volumes on some cheenies amp.
one them makes the amplifire set to "defense mode" when the sound to high volumes
First I want to set why it happening?
I suspect first of all the:
- Tweeter (Squeaker?) to turn off (unsolder it connections)
- Replace the Sound Transformer from another speaker
- Replace the Bias Transformer from another speaker
Need a lots of help here, how to restore and fix it.
In addition I searching for another amp,
At this moment I have:
- some chinies Lepy
and some receivers like Sony STR-DN1080 and some Piooner
In addition: how to disscharge it, without waiting one day after each procedure?
thanks for any help!
AVM Evolution M4 or M5 ?
- By Zen Mod
- Solid State
- 2 Replies
friend is harassing me to find him a schematic ....... 😱
anyone having it is welcome to shoot me with PM
tnx
anyone having it is welcome to shoot me with PM
tnx
FCUPS power supply DIY Hifi Supply Lux91 R6/R17 values
- By kehall
- Power Supplies
- 1 Replies
Attachments
twin bridge rectifiers on 50-0-50 toroidal?
- By hifilutining
- Power Supplies
- 15 Replies
My project is a monoblock amp based on a single “ljm” L25 pre-built amplifier board. My initial aim will be to run a 150W 12in 4ohm subwoofer.
The only part I have in my possession is a 300VA 50-0-50 toriodal transformer (bought cheap off someone who was selling due to buying it by mistake!). I have an eBay capacitor board ordered and I intend to fit eight 4700uF 100V “Lelon” caps on it. I will use a tunnel type heatsink with 80mm fan.
For the PSU I was planning to use twin 35A rectifier bridges and follow the TNT audio “Diagram 4” PSU schematic:
However, I have since realised that my transformer has only three output wires: a 50V a 0V and a 50V but this schematic show two separate wires for the middle 0V lines.
Question - can i still use the twin-bridge PSU topography if I only have a single centre wire?
If so - do i just share the transformer’s 0V wire to one AC leg of each rectifier? And the 50V lines to the other AC leg of each rectifier?
Or have I got the wrong transformer for a twin-bridge PSU and I have to use a single bridge rectifier?
A single rectifier design is not a problem, I had just read that twin rectifiers were better, but my last amp I built used single rectifiers per channel and it sounds fine!
thanks for any advice
The only part I have in my possession is a 300VA 50-0-50 toriodal transformer (bought cheap off someone who was selling due to buying it by mistake!). I have an eBay capacitor board ordered and I intend to fit eight 4700uF 100V “Lelon” caps on it. I will use a tunnel type heatsink with 80mm fan.
For the PSU I was planning to use twin 35A rectifier bridges and follow the TNT audio “Diagram 4” PSU schematic:
However, I have since realised that my transformer has only three output wires: a 50V a 0V and a 50V but this schematic show two separate wires for the middle 0V lines.
Question - can i still use the twin-bridge PSU topography if I only have a single centre wire?
If so - do i just share the transformer’s 0V wire to one AC leg of each rectifier? And the 50V lines to the other AC leg of each rectifier?
Or have I got the wrong transformer for a twin-bridge PSU and I have to use a single bridge rectifier?
A single rectifier design is not a problem, I had just read that twin rectifiers were better, but my last amp I built used single rectifiers per channel and it sounds fine!
thanks for any advice
Headphone jack in front panel
- By studiostevus
- Headphone Systems
- 10 Replies
Guys, I am working on putting my Aikido HP amp into a nice enclosure. Esthetically, I would like the headphone jack to be a plain hole in the front panel of the box. In other words: I would like nothing to stick out from the front (no nuts, o-rings, parts of the jack.. nothing).
I got this Neutrik jack. Has anyone done this, and is it possible at all?
I got this Neutrik jack. Has anyone done this, and is it possible at all?
Beaks
- Multi-Way
- 23 Replies
Over the last ten days, I've built a couple of very similar waveguides. One waveguide has prominent beaks. One has them, but to a much smaller extent.
The difference in performance was so dramatic, I thought that I must have a broken tweeter. The beaks make such a difference in the performance, it's basically inexplicable.
When I say "beaks", I'm talking about the JBL waveguides from the last seven years, where the waveguides are 'pinched' on the horizontal and the vertical axis, creating a shape that looks like a beak. (Our daughter says it looks like something else entirely, I'll leave that one to your imagination.)
I've built enough waveguides that I generally have an idea of how they'll perform before I print and measure them, but this one really has me stumped.
Here is the first waveguide that I made, on February 28th. It performed really nicely. Note that the 'beaks' are quite prominent.
Here's the new one, from a day ago. Very similar shape, both made with ATH4. But the newer one has less prominent "beaks."
Here they are side-by-side. These waveguides are not identical, but they're close, but when you see the data, it's COMPLETELY different.
The difference in performance was so dramatic, I thought that I must have a broken tweeter. The beaks make such a difference in the performance, it's basically inexplicable.
When I say "beaks", I'm talking about the JBL waveguides from the last seven years, where the waveguides are 'pinched' on the horizontal and the vertical axis, creating a shape that looks like a beak. (Our daughter says it looks like something else entirely, I'll leave that one to your imagination.)
I've built enough waveguides that I generally have an idea of how they'll perform before I print and measure them, but this one really has me stumped.
Here is the first waveguide that I made, on February 28th. It performed really nicely. Note that the 'beaks' are quite prominent.
Here's the new one, from a day ago. Very similar shape, both made with ATH4. But the newer one has less prominent "beaks."
Here they are side-by-side. These waveguides are not identical, but they're close, but when you see the data, it's COMPLETELY different.
Baby Huey GB PCB - EL34 Build Thread
- Tubes / Valves
- 22 Replies
I'm going to update this first post as I make progress with my personal build and gather relevant info to source parts, assemble and test a Baby Huey Amplifier made with Bandol's most recent Baby Huey Group Buy PCBs adjusted for use with EL34 (and other) tubes. Please note these are not the design by Gingertube using EL84 tubes.
Here is the schematic for the design we are discussing:
And top view of PCB Layout (one channel)
A. Parts and Planning:
I. Output Tubes and Output Transformers
This should be decided upon in the beginning. The output transformers will likely be the most costly part of a build and with the different values required for different output tubes it will pay dividends to pay attention here first.
Also, different output tubes and transformers will provide different power levels and you should choose an appropriate match for your speaker sensitivity.
To further complicate matters, and also to this amp's credit, it can accommodate a wide range of output tube types. This is not to even address that the same tubes (or those specified as "drop in replacements) can have different sounds and attributes as well. I will do my best to keep things on the simpler side without leaving out information that could be useful.
With this PCB you can build with 6V6, 6L6, 6550, 7581A, EL34, 6CA7, KT66, KT88 and others. For an idea of their differences see: Bandol's Comparison of Octal Pentodes and Tetrodes
The three issues are plate current, filament current and output impedence. For example, 6V6 in a 6L6 circuit will typically run very low plate current, thus a smaller value cathode resistor would be preferred for 6V6s. 6L6s require about twice the filament current of 6V6s...so 6V6s are fine in a 6L6 circuit, the opposite may not be true. Output impedence is different and 6V6s may get their optimum power with a higher load than 6L6s (ie a 16ohm vs 8ohm speaker). EL34s are thus better suited for 6V6 swapping as they bias very close. Confused yet?
All versions can give good results, but the caveat is that adjustments and substitutions will be required for best performance, which include some of the more costly items in the build:
However, with some diligence you can choose parts which will give you the widest range of possibilities.
Here was Bandol's OPT Recommendations based on tube type:
6V6 will use 8k OTP 15W
6L6 or KT66 will use 6.6k OPT 25W
EL34. 6CA7, KT88, 6550, etc... use in general 4.3k OTP 50W, but Toroid suggest the EL34PP which is specified at 6.6k while Hammond suggest the 1650N which is 4.3k, that's why I suggested to use the KT88PP specified at 4k also for EL34...
So, the 4.3k Hammond looks like the ticket for maximum versatility on first glance. I will look into this more deeply and expand on it.
Marc's original BOM lists values for an EL34 build. If you aren't confident adjusting these values yourself and this one of your first tube projects, I'd simply stick with the EL34 and not drive yourself batty! For this you can stick with the BOM (I'd up the cap values to 450V anyways) and use the following config:
Tubes: 2x EL34 and 1x 12ax7a per channel
Output Transformer: Hammond 1650N output transformer, impedance = 4,3 k ohms, power = 60 W
Power Tx 1: 230 V AC 300ma / 6.3 V 10 A (enough current for two channels, Marc used a Switching Power Supply)
Power Tx2: 50-60V for negative bias (Marc I believe used a 10VA 2x24V AC Toroid wired in series for ~60V)
II. Power Transformers
You will need 3 secondaries: Plate, bias, and filament. Whether they all come from the same or different transformers is up to you.
Again, what you want to choose here should be informed by your choice of tube.. different tubes will require different currents and voltage to be optimal.
(Yes, that's 3-5 transformers total including OPTs depending on which way you shake it)
Plate:
Depending on your tube choices you'll have 230-300 or so on the HV secondary.
275 V will give (275 x 1.4) - (0.7 x 2) = 383.6 V DC close to the 400 V limit of the recommended electrolytic capacitors. I would suggest going for 450-500V caps anyhow for longevity (more on that in BOM section) and also upping the film / pet cap ratings.
Bias:
You will still need a small transformer to supply the negative bias and the positive MOSFET driver stage, a 10 VA 2 x 24 V AC connected in series will give about +65 V DC and -65 V DC after the rectifiers and the capacitors on the board, which Marc suggests is perfect.
Filament:
You will want 6.3V for filaments. There is no provision for DC filaments on the board so if you want DC you'll have to add a board, such as those from Pete Millet or TubeCad... but keep in mind depending on your tubes that's a lot of amps passing through.
You should be ok with AC wiring as well provided that you follow some simple guidelines. (Please see the wonderful post here: Heater Wiring: The Good, The Bad and The Ugly)
III. BOM's:
Bandol's Original Parts List
Coming Soon:
Higher Voltage BOM
BOM adjustments by output tube choice
My US Mouser BOM
Messing with a Good Thing
Chokes, PSU additions / alterations and other improvement ideas will go here.
C. Assembly
Discussion of populating the pcb, chassis, connectors, tips, etc. will go here as it gets fleshed out.
Some of the assembly procedures sourced from Bandol/Marc's Original Assembly Guide with some reworking / clarification.
I. Populating the PCB:
Check carefully all components and their placement before soldering! Desoldering can be difficult and increases the risk of damaging the component, or worse the PCB itself. Also, take care to determine how your final casework will appear, as this will influence which side of the board you solder your components (If you would like the tubes showing through the top of the case, for example).
Always begin by populating the smaller parts on the board, and then move on to larger ones.
i.e. resistors > diodes > transistors > trimmers > led > connectors > tube sockets > small caps > largest caps
It's very important to take care to place diodes in their proper orientation, matching the line on the diode with the line on the silkscreen. Additionally, the polarity of electrolytic capacitors needs to be observed. Failure to be mindful of this can be quite problematic.
Also take extra care to ensure the tube sockets (especially the output tube sockets) are well soldered, with through holes filled solidly.
The largest capacitors will not fit on the top side and must be mounted beneath as can be seen from this photo:
The volume potentiometer is optional, if the amplifier should be used with a preamplifier it can be used as an input trimmer but if we want to make an integrated amplifier it is possible to use a stereo potentiometer on the front panel and to connect it to the PCB with shielded wires. 20k-50k can be used.
D. How to not explode
Test procedures, biasing and so forth will go here.
Despite the raging desire within you to throw caution to the wind and bask instantly in sonic bliss, not exploding should always remain the top priority.
Marc's adjustment diagram (again, for EL34):
To adjust the amplifier you will need a dependable / accurate multi-meter, if possible with auto-ranging features, switched to Volts DC.
If you have made it this far without a multimeter: 1. Shame on you. 2. Take a full stop and proceed to your local hardware store, or if you prefer Amazon or whatever and get a decent multimeter. Don't be stupid! It should be rated for 600V (or ideally 1000V). If you want a low cost recommendation, try the Greenlee LM-45 ... it is modestly priced, rated for 600V and auto-ranging. It's a great way to spend $40. Want to splurge on something better? Take a look at the Fluke 117.
1. Connect the meter with the range 1000 V DC* to the leads of C5, check the DC high voltage. It should read + or – 250 to 385 V depending of your transformer and the side of the capacitor where the where the red and black probe are connected.
2. Connect the black negative probe on TP3 (Test Point 3 = GND = 0 V) and the red positive probe on TP1 (Test Point 1 = V2 cathode), check cathode voltage of V2 with the meter on range 20 V DC* first and 2 V DC* later for a better precision. Now you have to adjust the trimmer R41 (bias V2) to read the voltage on the resistor connected between the output tube and the GND, since we have a 10 ohms resistor the voltage will indicate 10 times the tube current (by example a voltage of 600 mV will indicate a current of 60 mA). You must adjust the trimmer in relation with the specifications of the output tubes and the level of bias that you like for a class AB push-pull. Remember that if the output current is higher, the consumption and the temperature of the amplifier will increase significantly, moreover, the tubes life will be reduced! Depending of the output tubes, a bias between 30 mA and 60 mA is reasonable...
3. Make the same procedure for V3 by connecting the red probe on TP2 (Test Point 2 = V3 cathode) and adjust the trimmer R42 (bias V3) like before... As you may have understood the trimmers are on the opposed side of the test points and the adjusted tube!!! It is my only mistake on the routing, but finally it is easier to have one hand on each side 🙂
4. Connect the meter probes to the leads of C1 and C2, which are connected to the plates of the 12AX7 / ECC83 input tube (the lead close to C1 and C2 silkscreen near the socket) and check the voltage on range 20 V DC*, you need to adjust R5 to have the same current in both side of the differential amplifier and the same voltage on both anodes, therefor you should read a value close or equal to 0 V DC. It is also possible to check the voltage of these plates by plugin the black probe to the GND (TP3 by example) and the red probe on C1 or C2 leads (range 600 V DC or 200 V DC*), normally you must read between 150 V and 200 V DC depending of your high voltage level.
* recommended setting for manual meter without auto-ranging
At this point, if everything's has been correctly checked, hook it up and give it a listen.
Now, you only need to do is make a nice enclosure for your new amplifier!
more to come....
Here is the schematic for the design we are discussing:
And top view of PCB Layout (one channel)
A. Parts and Planning:
I. Output Tubes and Output Transformers
This should be decided upon in the beginning. The output transformers will likely be the most costly part of a build and with the different values required for different output tubes it will pay dividends to pay attention here first.
Also, different output tubes and transformers will provide different power levels and you should choose an appropriate match for your speaker sensitivity.
To further complicate matters, and also to this amp's credit, it can accommodate a wide range of output tube types. This is not to even address that the same tubes (or those specified as "drop in replacements) can have different sounds and attributes as well. I will do my best to keep things on the simpler side without leaving out information that could be useful.
With this PCB you can build with 6V6, 6L6, 6550, 7581A, EL34, 6CA7, KT66, KT88 and others. For an idea of their differences see: Bandol's Comparison of Octal Pentodes and Tetrodes
The three issues are plate current, filament current and output impedence. For example, 6V6 in a 6L6 circuit will typically run very low plate current, thus a smaller value cathode resistor would be preferred for 6V6s. 6L6s require about twice the filament current of 6V6s...so 6V6s are fine in a 6L6 circuit, the opposite may not be true. Output impedence is different and 6V6s may get their optimum power with a higher load than 6L6s (ie a 16ohm vs 8ohm speaker). EL34s are thus better suited for 6V6 swapping as they bias very close. Confused yet?
All versions can give good results, but the caveat is that adjustments and substitutions will be required for best performance, which include some of the more costly items in the build:
- The output transformers
- Some resistors values
- Power Tx (The current requirements will change, as well as ideal HV- i.e. a 6V6 will consume half the current of a 6CA7)
- Capacitor Voltage ratings
However, with some diligence you can choose parts which will give you the widest range of possibilities.
Here was Bandol's OPT Recommendations based on tube type:
6V6 will use 8k OTP 15W
6L6 or KT66 will use 6.6k OPT 25W
EL34. 6CA7, KT88, 6550, etc... use in general 4.3k OTP 50W, but Toroid suggest the EL34PP which is specified at 6.6k while Hammond suggest the 1650N which is 4.3k, that's why I suggested to use the KT88PP specified at 4k also for EL34...
So, the 4.3k Hammond looks like the ticket for maximum versatility on first glance. I will look into this more deeply and expand on it.
Marc's original BOM lists values for an EL34 build. If you aren't confident adjusting these values yourself and this one of your first tube projects, I'd simply stick with the EL34 and not drive yourself batty! For this you can stick with the BOM (I'd up the cap values to 450V anyways) and use the following config:
Tubes: 2x EL34 and 1x 12ax7a per channel
Output Transformer: Hammond 1650N output transformer, impedance = 4,3 k ohms, power = 60 W
Power Tx 1: 230 V AC 300ma / 6.3 V 10 A (enough current for two channels, Marc used a Switching Power Supply)
Power Tx2: 50-60V for negative bias (Marc I believe used a 10VA 2x24V AC Toroid wired in series for ~60V)
II. Power Transformers
You will need 3 secondaries: Plate, bias, and filament. Whether they all come from the same or different transformers is up to you.
Again, what you want to choose here should be informed by your choice of tube.. different tubes will require different currents and voltage to be optimal.
(Yes, that's 3-5 transformers total including OPTs depending on which way you shake it)
Plate:
Depending on your tube choices you'll have 230-300 or so on the HV secondary.
275 V will give (275 x 1.4) - (0.7 x 2) = 383.6 V DC close to the 400 V limit of the recommended electrolytic capacitors. I would suggest going for 450-500V caps anyhow for longevity (more on that in BOM section) and also upping the film / pet cap ratings.
Bias:
You will still need a small transformer to supply the negative bias and the positive MOSFET driver stage, a 10 VA 2 x 24 V AC connected in series will give about +65 V DC and -65 V DC after the rectifiers and the capacitors on the board, which Marc suggests is perfect.
Filament:
You will want 6.3V for filaments. There is no provision for DC filaments on the board so if you want DC you'll have to add a board, such as those from Pete Millet or TubeCad... but keep in mind depending on your tubes that's a lot of amps passing through.
You should be ok with AC wiring as well provided that you follow some simple guidelines. (Please see the wonderful post here: Heater Wiring: The Good, The Bad and The Ugly)
III. BOM's:
Bandol's Original Parts List
Coming Soon:
Higher Voltage BOM
BOM adjustments by output tube choice
My US Mouser BOM
Messing with a Good Thing
Chokes, PSU additions / alterations and other improvement ideas will go here.
C. Assembly
Discussion of populating the pcb, chassis, connectors, tips, etc. will go here as it gets fleshed out.
Some of the assembly procedures sourced from Bandol/Marc's Original Assembly Guide with some reworking / clarification.
I. Populating the PCB:
Check carefully all components and their placement before soldering! Desoldering can be difficult and increases the risk of damaging the component, or worse the PCB itself. Also, take care to determine how your final casework will appear, as this will influence which side of the board you solder your components (If you would like the tubes showing through the top of the case, for example).
Always begin by populating the smaller parts on the board, and then move on to larger ones.
i.e. resistors > diodes > transistors > trimmers > led > connectors > tube sockets > small caps > largest caps
It's very important to take care to place diodes in their proper orientation, matching the line on the diode with the line on the silkscreen. Additionally, the polarity of electrolytic capacitors needs to be observed. Failure to be mindful of this can be quite problematic.
Also take extra care to ensure the tube sockets (especially the output tube sockets) are well soldered, with through holes filled solidly.
The largest capacitors will not fit on the top side and must be mounted beneath as can be seen from this photo:
The volume potentiometer is optional, if the amplifier should be used with a preamplifier it can be used as an input trimmer but if we want to make an integrated amplifier it is possible to use a stereo potentiometer on the front panel and to connect it to the PCB with shielded wires. 20k-50k can be used.
D. How to not explode
Test procedures, biasing and so forth will go here.
Despite the raging desire within you to throw caution to the wind and bask instantly in sonic bliss, not exploding should always remain the top priority.
Marc's adjustment diagram (again, for EL34):
To adjust the amplifier you will need a dependable / accurate multi-meter, if possible with auto-ranging features, switched to Volts DC.
If you have made it this far without a multimeter: 1. Shame on you. 2. Take a full stop and proceed to your local hardware store, or if you prefer Amazon or whatever and get a decent multimeter. Don't be stupid! It should be rated for 600V (or ideally 1000V). If you want a low cost recommendation, try the Greenlee LM-45 ... it is modestly priced, rated for 600V and auto-ranging. It's a great way to spend $40. Want to splurge on something better? Take a look at the Fluke 117.
1. Connect the meter with the range 1000 V DC* to the leads of C5, check the DC high voltage. It should read + or – 250 to 385 V depending of your transformer and the side of the capacitor where the where the red and black probe are connected.
2. Connect the black negative probe on TP3 (Test Point 3 = GND = 0 V) and the red positive probe on TP1 (Test Point 1 = V2 cathode), check cathode voltage of V2 with the meter on range 20 V DC* first and 2 V DC* later for a better precision. Now you have to adjust the trimmer R41 (bias V2) to read the voltage on the resistor connected between the output tube and the GND, since we have a 10 ohms resistor the voltage will indicate 10 times the tube current (by example a voltage of 600 mV will indicate a current of 60 mA). You must adjust the trimmer in relation with the specifications of the output tubes and the level of bias that you like for a class AB push-pull. Remember that if the output current is higher, the consumption and the temperature of the amplifier will increase significantly, moreover, the tubes life will be reduced! Depending of the output tubes, a bias between 30 mA and 60 mA is reasonable...
3. Make the same procedure for V3 by connecting the red probe on TP2 (Test Point 2 = V3 cathode) and adjust the trimmer R42 (bias V3) like before... As you may have understood the trimmers are on the opposed side of the test points and the adjusted tube!!! It is my only mistake on the routing, but finally it is easier to have one hand on each side 🙂
4. Connect the meter probes to the leads of C1 and C2, which are connected to the plates of the 12AX7 / ECC83 input tube (the lead close to C1 and C2 silkscreen near the socket) and check the voltage on range 20 V DC*, you need to adjust R5 to have the same current in both side of the differential amplifier and the same voltage on both anodes, therefor you should read a value close or equal to 0 V DC. It is also possible to check the voltage of these plates by plugin the black probe to the GND (TP3 by example) and the red probe on C1 or C2 leads (range 600 V DC or 200 V DC*), normally you must read between 150 V and 200 V DC depending of your high voltage level.
* recommended setting for manual meter without auto-ranging
At this point, if everything's has been correctly checked, hook it up and give it a listen.
Now, you only need to do is make a nice enclosure for your new amplifier!
more to come....
Customized Magnavox Micromatic
- By scorron
- Analogue Source
- 12 Replies
For the past few years, I've been using an EL84 Single Ended Pentode tube amp I built out of a Magnavox amp. It came from a suitcase style record player that belonged to my grandmother.
Last year I decided to do the same with the Magnavox (Collaro) Micromatic changer from the same suitcase player. I'd like to share my progress with this forum, from which I have learned a great deal about hifi designs.
All automatic functions were stripped out. What remains is merely an on/off switch and a speed change knob.
I'm using the AT-XP5 cartridge, which tracks at the same force as the original ceramic. The original acrylic tonearm was heavily modified to accept the 1/2" cartridge. It is easy to change cartridges.
The plinth is solid 3/4" thick Patagonian Rosewood, 5 1/2" tall. Black acrylic laminated over plywood makes the top. I bought a new idler from Gary at Voice Of Music, V-M Audio Enthusiasts and it is very smooth-rolling and quiet. New center bearing.
Original rubber mat is supple and does a lot to attenuate rumble. Even on 45rpm, the rumble is totally acceptable to me. Disappears once the music starts.
If anyone is interested, I've been writing up in detail a lot of the work I did, and I'll continue to do so here: Hifi – FOR MADMEN ONLY!. Lots of higher quality photos, too.
Thanks for all the great posts that helped me along the way! Maybe this will inspire someone else.
Last year I decided to do the same with the Magnavox (Collaro) Micromatic changer from the same suitcase player. I'd like to share my progress with this forum, from which I have learned a great deal about hifi designs.
All automatic functions were stripped out. What remains is merely an on/off switch and a speed change knob.
I'm using the AT-XP5 cartridge, which tracks at the same force as the original ceramic. The original acrylic tonearm was heavily modified to accept the 1/2" cartridge. It is easy to change cartridges.
The plinth is solid 3/4" thick Patagonian Rosewood, 5 1/2" tall. Black acrylic laminated over plywood makes the top. I bought a new idler from Gary at Voice Of Music, V-M Audio Enthusiasts and it is very smooth-rolling and quiet. New center bearing.
Original rubber mat is supple and does a lot to attenuate rumble. Even on 45rpm, the rumble is totally acceptable to me. Disappears once the music starts.
If anyone is interested, I've been writing up in detail a lot of the work I did, and I'll continue to do so here: Hifi – FOR MADMEN ONLY!. Lots of higher quality photos, too.
Thanks for all the great posts that helped me along the way! Maybe this will inspire someone else.
Small S.E MOSFET with current feedback scheme -- critique my design
- By abstract
- Solid State
- 19 Replies
Attachments
KSS-151A Sony laser mechanism
For Sale one original KSS-151A Sony laser mechanism in very good condition. Can read any type of CDs (including the written CD)
Was extracted from a working Sony CDP-227ESD player.
For any question, use the message.
Price is 140 Euro + shipping.
I can ship only to Europe.
Was extracted from a working Sony CDP-227ESD player.
For any question, use the message.
Price is 140 Euro + shipping.
I can ship only to Europe.
I have been staring at #BBBBEB for years. Enough is enough.
- By sgrossklass
- Forum Problems & Feedback
- 12 Replies
I know that y'all want to move on to bigger and better things at some point, yet this looks like it could be a 5 minute job, assuming you can find out where the origins of https://files.diyaudio.com/forums/clientscript/vbulletin_css/style-e3e9dc61-00015.css reside.
Yes, #BBBBEB. This particularly garish shade of greyish lavender (yes, lavender) that forms the darker background of posts here.
Would you paint a room this particular color? Would you buy a car in this particular color? Do you find this color aesthetically pleasing?
No? What a surprise. Then why are we using it here?! 😱
Find
and replace with
Et voilà, discussions will appear in these (IMHO) rather more appealing colors:
Granted, if you have any better ideas, go ahead. This is just what I came up with by eye. The tiniest bit greenish, but green = calming and all of that jazz. And yes, I do think that my monitor gives reasonably accurate results (it's a trusty NEC 1990SXi that I retweaked the white point on not too long ago). I very much doubt that whoever picked #BBBBEB back in the day had anything nearly as good. Long-term I think that bluish backgrounds are not too ideal for reading and something the warmer side of neutral grey would be better, but it wouldn't fit the general theme right now.
If you could also sneak in something that effectively does the same as
readability would go up quite a bit on the whole.
If not - I mean, I do have a restyling add-on, but all the rest of the world would still be looking at this particularly garish shade of greyish lavender.
Our mobile readers would no doubt also appreciate a particular meta tag, wherever that particular area may be generated. I put this into my personal web pages some time in 2014:
I have forgotten about the specifics. Some tweaking may be required.
I also noticed no shortage of font sizes in pt, but that's another problem for another day.
Oh, and do you think you could either banish the "insert image" button from quick reply completely or alternatively make it equivalent to "Go Advanced" instead? This may be the #1 item new users get confuzzled about.
Rummaging in the innards of old forum software isn't actually too different from trying to tweak old audio gear, I imagine.
And yes, I do enjoy the occasional drama queen moment. 😛
Yes, #BBBBEB. This particularly garish shade of greyish lavender (yes, lavender) that forms the darker background of posts here.
Would you paint a room this particular color? Would you buy a car in this particular color? Do you find this color aesthetically pleasing?
No? What a surprise. Then why are we using it here?! 😱
Find
Code:
.post2 {
background-color:#bbbbeb
}
.post2header {
background-color:#bbbbeb
}
.post1 {
background-color:#cfcfef
}
.post1header {
background-color:#cfcfef
}
Code:
.post2 {
background-color:#bdc7e7
}
.post2header {
background-color:#bdc7e7
}
.post1 {
background-color:#d1d7ed
}
.post1header {
background-color:#d1d7ed
}Et voilà, discussions will appear in these (IMHO) rather more appealing colors:
Granted, if you have any better ideas, go ahead. This is just what I came up with by eye. The tiniest bit greenish, but green = calming and all of that jazz. And yes, I do think that my monitor gives reasonably accurate results (it's a trusty NEC 1990SXi that I retweaked the white point on not too long ago). I very much doubt that whoever picked #BBBBEB back in the day had anything nearly as good. Long-term I think that bluish backgrounds are not too ideal for reading and something the warmer side of neutral grey would be better, but it wouldn't fit the general theme right now.
If you could also sneak in something that effectively does the same as
Code:
div {
line-height: 1.4em;
}If not - I mean, I do have a restyling add-on, but all the rest of the world would still be looking at this particularly garish shade of greyish lavender.
Our mobile readers would no doubt also appreciate a particular meta tag, wherever that particular area may be generated. I put this into my personal web pages some time in 2014:
Code:
<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1">I also noticed no shortage of font sizes in pt, but that's another problem for another day.
Oh, and do you think you could either banish the "insert image" button from quick reply completely or alternatively make it equivalent to "Go Advanced" instead? This may be the #1 item new users get confuzzled about.
Rummaging in the innards of old forum software isn't actually too different from trying to tweak old audio gear, I imagine.
And yes, I do enjoy the occasional drama queen moment. 😛
Attachments
Speakers in the movie "the parasite"
Hello all!
So my buddy went to the movies with his wife to se the Korean film "the parasite" - naturally he focused on the important things in the movie... i.e. what are those speakers in the living room?
It looks like a Onken 360 cabinet but extended upwards with a rectangular horn ending in what might be lowthers or something similar 6" or so with a phase plug.
Looks as a nice idea and inspirational (I collected the parts to start building some Onkens soon...) a larger 300hz horn might make the potential lobing issue (from the distance between the 15" and the horn) go away.
But - what are those
speakers!?
Happy friday,
Peter
So my buddy went to the movies with his wife to se the Korean film "the parasite" - naturally he focused on the important things in the movie... i.e. what are those speakers in the living room?
It looks like a Onken 360 cabinet but extended upwards with a rectangular horn ending in what might be lowthers or something similar 6" or so with a phase plug.
Looks as a nice idea and inspirational (I collected the parts to start building some Onkens soon...) a larger 300hz horn might make the potential lobing issue (from the distance between the 15" and the horn) go away.
But - what are those
Happy friday,
Peter
