Was this early start to forest fire season attributable to a new forest management rubric?

SOLD!!!

For sale a pair of Morel MW166 midwoofers.
Great bass for small enclosures.
Will send with outer plastic ring adapters to fit 165mm
110€ shipped within EU






SOLD!!!

I’m interested in depositing this in a good and decent condition and it features : Stereo output: 250W per channel, fully balanced design, EMI/RFI filtered AC inlet, Heavy, custom designed aluminum case with blue LED pilot. (LED may be dimmed or shut-off by switch) 8″W x 11″D x 3.125″H 6.7lbs.

$550 USD

​

....

Hello--

Finally looking at the Audiovox AVX-900 as the ole Craig that got fixed sounds just awful. Current symptoms, when the power is turned on, no response from the buttons, display (inverted), tape deck constantly spins and ignores input. Poking around, at least the top two blue capacitors have leaked, and I am going to assume the rest of the blue ones have. Audio amps are a paired NEC C1182H-3, C1181H-3(?) (cant see it), tuner is a toshiba t1400-U with an iron core tuner. I havent dug around the rest of the radio, but I am going to assume all blue caps will need to be replaced. I know its really up to me, but based on the hardware, would it be worth it to save this radio? It concerns me that not even the display turns on...

I bought a double pair of KLH Nines about 10 years ago. I needed to restore the power supplies and with the help of David Janszen and some owners in forums on the net I did restore them. Not an easy task with all the wax melting 🙂 . Needless to say they sound incredible and I've been listening to them for the last 8 years. Anyway, I got the polarity of the diodes wrong and now they are all positive power supplies instead of negative, which apparently generated positive ions which for what I've read on-line is not good for you. It does not alter the sound at all but I was wondering about the effects, if any, of all those positive ions. So I ask the group what to do:

1) Do nothing. All this talk of positive ions is BS. They have no effect on us (I like this option)

2) Rebuild the power supplies with the right diode polarity. Positive ions are bad for you. ( I DO NOT like this option)

3) Buy a negative ion generator to neutralize the positive ions from the speaker.

Thanks.

Hi all, Can I hear of the view of you fine experts on whether Coral Flat 5s would work in Fostex FE108ez horns. The drivers are 132mm wide yet the horns designed for 108mm wide drivers. With the Corals being a 5-inch driver, there are limited horn designs, plus I’d love to build the above design, but I need to get advice as it’s a lot of effort and money to get wrong.

I have just finished the Pearl Two phono boards. We should have them available for the new year. The article will be on the Pass site soon.

Hi ,
I’ve recently acquired the above vintage sub which is a match for the JR149 speakers, the previous owner nor I know how to connect it to the amp or speakers ( input or output)
Is there anyway to test which goes where other than trial and error and could i damage something if say I connected the input to output ?
Can’t find a schematic anywhere.

Hi,

Last posted in 2007-2008 so it's been a while!

I have an old Audiolab 8000A Integrated Amp my father gave me (actually I inherited it after he died during, but not of Covid), it works perfectly but the Speakers and Power knobs were knocked off, probably by Mum whacking the cupboard door shut. I did a wee search here but cannot find too much by the way of non-electrical parts and advice.

The Speaker knob has a longer square shaft still sticking out, whereas the Power button has just a short bit (maybe broken off?).
Both buttons actually still work just fine, if you use a pencil to operate them, but that's obviously not ideal. It still sounds great.
I was wondering if the knobs can be replaced? See photos.

My wife is an Electronics Engineer (microelectronics, they make controllers with Chip on baord and SMT in a factory, but is not an audio enthusiast) so is probably able to do the soldering, if any is required (si it likely). I am currently based in Asia, so I think it would be too expensive to send the whole unit back to the UK for repair.

Serial No. is 207B78227 or 207878227 as it is not clear, if there was any difference in model years.

cheers

k.

Have asked a friend of mine with several decades of experience in tube amp building (but mostly pentode and tetrode stuff plus a few 2A3, 300B etc) to assemble a SET 211 for me.

Have looked for some first hand experience with the schematic I have in mind, dating back to 1971.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/uesugi-211-vintage-1971.400065/

I can’t say many SE or PP amps with bigger triodes have impressed me over the last 3 decades or so, other than the beauty of timbres. I found these usually lacking dynamics and liveliness (besides other frequent shortfalls).

I’m wondering what’s the secret of a good lively, rythmic SET amp, especially with larger triodes such as 211, 845, 805 etc. Leaving aside the output transformer and other component quality considerations.

Have tried to identify some patterns and correlations with the degree of sophistication of the power supply (the simpler the better as opposed to multistage PI filtering sections etc) but I read nothing conclusive so far.

Any views?

I am selling a barely used pair of Lii Audio F15s. I bought them on 11 January 2023 direct from Lii China. I used them for design prototyping and have decided on a design with smaller drivers. I will take $300 + shipping (OBO). They will ship from central Mexico (thats where I live).

Hi guys,

I have had my PMC OB1i for a long time now. I have previously done some small things to them. I internally wired out the tri-amp connections so I don't need messy links on the back. I also soldered the internal speaker wire onto the drivers, replacing the horrible crimped connections that were standard.

Could I upgrade the drivers? Maybe replace the woofer with a Purifi unit? Is there anything suitable?

What about the tweeter, I heard ferro fluid can dry out, should I be worried with the age of these speakers? Are crossover components worth changing?

Thanks
Nick

Hello all, I have almost completed my b1 buffer and have 1 question about the wiring for the input switch. can someone tell by the pics if this is correct or will I have to do some rewiring

Hi,

Have any of you tried to change de size of an active speaker box (i.e. JBL LSR305 or ADAM T5V)??

These are generally too deep, and I want to use them as surround, within a "couch against wall" situation. I know I can move the couch a little bit forward (maybe 25-30cm), but still it won't be enough to have big BOX on the back, 60cm up and aimed towards MLP.

So... Why not make a new box, shallower and taller, with the same inner volume and use the same (plastic) baffle to mount the drivers, leaving the "added part below the woofer. It would even help to make a sturdier box and reduce resonances. I am not even eliminating the port, but it's an alternative, as I use these HP around 100Hz...

I would also move the amp to an external box...

What do you think? Doable? PRO? CONS?

Hello everyone I bought an ML 333 and it sounded bad, I opened it, they already tried to restore it...
Put a lot of bad capacitors put samwha gt 8 * 22000uf and other cheap Chinese capacitors. The sound is disgusting....
My ml5805 sounds many times better.
Here I think to put it in order, but it's expensive ...
Are there those who restored the 3rd line in perfect technical condition? Has the sound improved much?
Do you have a photo of the disassembled amplifier? If there is, please send it. I need to see how it was before the repair.

AxiPeriodic Drivers - Axi2050 - Celestion - Guitar, Bass & Pro Audio Speakers
? 🙂
Frequency range300-20,000Hz
Voice coil diameter125mm/5in
Diaphragm type Circumferentially, AxiPeriodic, single annular
titanium diaphragm, integrated surround

http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/pdf/Celestion/Celestion_Pro_Speaker_Catalogue16.pdf - p. 6-7

https://www.facebook.com/Celestion/posts/1154178807937601 "Celestion Speakers: We expect it to be available for manufacturers towards the end of the year,"

Hello everyone.
I went ahead and tried to repair the metz mecasound ax 4960 which had the right channel's power pack low side pnps shorted. I removed the old one and tested if the previous stage- vas transistors were short but they where testing good. I changed the power pack with the new one and first tested the amplifier with my bench power supplies by applying voltage straight into the bridge rectifier so i can have current limiting but i had no overcurrents and the out put signal was fine. But when i plugged the amp into power and the dc protection relay closed, the low side of the power pack got shorted the same way as before. The amp has no bias and dc offset adj so these cant mess up the output stage. What could be the issue here.
I dont think i will buy another power pack for 15 euros again to replace it and mess it again but i posting because i am curious what could cause this.
Best regards
PP

I am building a high-end preamp and looking for the highest quality mechanical relays I can find for switching audio. Any coil voltage, DPDT. Priority is least degradation of audio signal. Any recommendations? (make and model)

Hi Forum

I think it is safe to say that SB Acoustics SB26ADC and SB26CDC are still some of the best bang for the buck tweeters. Sure you can get better, but for a price around 55 Euro, it is really hard to beat.
One thing I like in particular is the Xmax of 1.2 mm peak-peak.
You don't find that in many dome tweeters. What that means is the ability to cross over rather low.
Combining this with a waveguide just adds to this, and you would be able to cross over around 1.2 - 1.5 kHz and still have pretty good output.
One of the best bang for the buck waveguides is or sure the Monacor WG300, at 20 Euro again it hard to beat.
What is more the geometry promise a really good on axis and off- axis reponse.

A vey goo example is Heissmann's implementation:
https://heissmann-acoustics.de/test-vifa-xd-270-f4-waveguide-wg-300/

The waveguide is made for the Monacor DT-300 tweeter, which is of course not a contender for the SB tweeter, and the challenge her is that it does not really fit the SB tweeter right away, ad an adapto plate is needed.
Heissmann has made a plate for the Scan-Speak Discovery D2604/833000
https://heissmann-acoustics.de/produkt/adapterplatte-waveguide-hochtoener/

I see that xrk971 has also made an adaptor plate for another good band for the buck tweeter Dayton RS-28
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/rs28f-rs180p-b80-as-hole-filler-3-way.297171/post-4847155


Question is now if someone has made an adaptor for the SB26ADC?

I think it would be important to include the phase plug in the design

Have been fiddling a bit with FreeCAD, but must say I do not master it yet to do this myself from scratch. Maybe with some help or a good starting point ....

Plan would be to use something like JLCPCB to do the printing, and only printing the adaptor plate will of course keep the price down.

By the way this is the tweeter used in Revel F206 with a 5" waveguide


I know also the good Augerpro has made some excellent waveguides, but I would prefer a round guide over an eliptic not least to make the routing for it, and again I think the WG300 has a really good geometry and freq response.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/open-source-waveguides-for-cnc-3d-printing.318190/
https://www.somasonus.net/sb-acoustics-sb26

In a 1.5 way speaker, how critical is the dcr of the inductor? A 4mH air coil 2ohms vs 1.2 ohms?

I was testing some different mH values and currently have a 3mH and 1mH in series, want to change to a 4mH with lower DCR.

Thoughts? It should raise the bass response a bit right with a lower DCR inductor??

Hi all,
I implement my own hybrid headphone amp base on the Schiit Vali schematic, but the sound of Schiit Vali is much better then mine so i wondering why.
In my implement, i use 12au7, ccs load plate at 3.8ma, 400r cathode resistor without bypass, 100V B+ regulated using maida regulator, 30V for output stage regulated by low noise TPS7a4901. So everything seem to be better but mine sound worse, Schiit Vali just sound more expansive, vivid, slam harder, so i wonder can that be the 6088 or DHT special sound? Something also that make me lead to that thought is the vali 2 which use 6dj8 type tube also sound quite boring compare to the vali.
Here is the Schiit Vali schematic, i want to post mine but i have lost it when my hdd die, only gerber file left https://www.schiit.com/public/upload/PDF/Vali Mini Schematic.pdf

Hi to all!

I was bench testing an amp that was capable of delievering 33 V into 4 ohm load. According to my calculations, that is 272.25 watts (P=V^2/R). There should be 8.25 amps (I=V/R). The amp is rated for 4 ohms minimum. Nice.

Now the question. What if I had a nasty speaker thad drops to 1 ohm at certain frequency but is very efficient, for example 100 dB / W at 1m. As per Crown Audio calculator, such speaker should need 16 watts to listen at 85dB at 4m and with a headroom of 15 dB, that should be plenty.

16 watts at 1 ohm should be 4V and 4A (V=√ (P*R) and I=P/V)... So, if this amp is capable of doing 33V and 8.25A, why won't it be able to put out 4V and 4A? Or can it?

Am I missing something here?

Thanks!

Hello everyone,
So I'm coming very late to the party and I'm in a very limited budget. My gear is thrown together, cheap and old.
Most people would probably laugh at my gear but it's the most I can afford. And it fits in my very limited space as well.
I made sure to get good subwoofer though 😆 🤣 😂

OK, so I have just got myself a denon x4300h.... again, yes I know, it's OLD but so am I and so is my home theater lol. My tv is a old as my avr lol.
Anyways, I see it has the auro 3d update ability, however, I've also read that the format is dead and company filed bankruptcy.

Does anyone know if this update is still available and if it is ,do you think they may reduce price more now that the format is dead.

Hi, Looking for a pair of JBL STX825 horn (5006815). Paypal and shipping to 97230. thanks

Hello, a few months ago I hve acquired a pair of active vintage studio monitors that have bout a milion and more problems, so I decided to keep the box and speakers and for now the crossover too, and redesign its amplifier to hopefully remove the original flaws and make it "better" too.

The original amplifier had a catastrophic PCB design even for the 70s when this thing would be manufactured, this thing would break into oscillation like as if it was built for that purpose. And at no joke frequencies!
The original design used high speed switching transistors, and despite that having its own problems and quirks I am willing to take chances and try to work with the original output pair. This means the amplifier will be, or rather, should be VERY FAST. The whole thing is rather low power so I am not concernet with burning the switching transistors with too much linear region power dissapation. And since these are switching transistors I have to work with a quasi complementary circuit.

Now as I mentioned earlier this thing is low power. Like 50W peak power. Originally this has a 25V+/- unloaded supply voltage, which considerig the size of the transiformer will droop signifficantly. So I dont expect to exceed some extreme actuall dissapated power. Also the heatsink on this thing is MONSTROUS. The load is 4ohms. I dont think a multistage current gain is required for this speciffic purpose.

So now that you have a wider context as of what and why I am doing, heres the schematic


Its quite chaotic so if any questions arise just ask me, and please do question me and my decisions. Maybe Ill come up with a better solution.
(Q11 and Q13 are not what the real parts are, but they are the closest to compare, Q3 mounted on heatsink for temperature sensing)

In LTspice I tuned this thing with a safe ish margin before complete breakdown while. It behaves calmly in extreme conditions like output voltage limitations, doesnt saturate the transistors within (least I havent noticed any too negative effects). It behaves well in the safe zone in the simulator while being quite fast. As that was the goal here. Fast responding amplifier with medium to low ish power but a very good quality.

EDIT: Yes I am aware my diff emitter current will drift with varying supply voltage, think of R29 as a dynamic resistor pulling exactly the same current no matter the voltage. I plan to put a depletion mosfet current source in there. At the time of design all I really wanted is for both diff pairs to drift equally in current if they absolutely have to

Looking for a pair of new Bliemsa T34B tweeters. Please let me know if anyone has some for sale.

Any info what DSP is used in Wondom JAB2v2 series. I tought it would be ADAU1701, but no. I would like to use it in mono two way speaker. It would need different filters for both channels.

Following on experiment posted here , I wonder if a better approach might be to run it as a grounded grid (ie drive the cathode). As the DA41 is set up for A2 with Vg = +20VDC / Ig ≈ 9mA the thought is to run it as shown with current source set for roughly double the expected grid current to make allowance for some fluctuation (the grid current is relatively stable over most of the planned range) with the zener (or LED etc) using the other 9mA.

Any precedent for this way of doing it? I do intend to try it but am very interested to know if anyone here has tried this or not. My understanding is that A2 grid current is always from grid to B+ whereas grounded grid current -if any- would be from ground to grid, so my thinking is that this approach takes care of both.

Thanks !

My Albion Gulf Stream 30 head has developed a hum, which I think is a ground hum, but it's only audible on the clean channel (channel A.) So far I've tried swapping the valves around, trying different power cables, plugging in to different circuits, and cleaning the spade connector labelled GND on the PCB. None of this has worked.

I know it's a long shot, but does anyone have any experience with these amps and can offer a bit of advice, or suggestions on what I need to check?

After 12 years I finished the woodwork of my Bruce V1.2 (from the old frugal-horns site) and I remembered I have on the shelf some Visaton speakers.

It is a set of the TL 16H HF horns and the DR45/MH300 MF horns.

Now when I bought these years ago I thought of making the TL 860 D monitors. But after building the Bruce I know my woodwork skills are not up to it to build the octogonal enclosure. And they are rather large for the apartment I live in. So I looked through the original TL book (dated 1987!) and saw the TL Monitor 473 D.

This is a rectangular boxed version with a single woofer using the DR45/MH300 and TL 16H.

But I cannot find any plans of it. Not on the Visaton site/forum and even google turns up nothing, not even a photo of those speakers. Does anyone has (a link to) the plans for these?

Alternative would be to make the 890 D into a rectangular box but I don't really want to spend time doing that.

I have several transformers I would like to pass along. I can only ship them to the US (heavy) using USPS Flat Rate Boxes. Shipping will be additional (Medium Flat Rate: $17.10, Large Flat Rate $22.80). Please PM me directly. I will respond in the order they come in. Thanks.

AnTek AN-4222 400VA 22V+22V (link). I have six of these. $35 each. 2 Available


Antek AN-8246 800VA 46V+46V (photo). I have one of these. $45 Pending


Plitron 650VA 20V+20V(CT) (Bought as surplus several years ago). I have three of these. $25 One left


Avel Lindberg Y236503 160VA 22V+22V. One available. $25


Avel Lindberg Y236652 250VA 25V+25V. One available. $30.


No idea where I got this one. 350VA, 56+56V(CT), 16.2V+16.2V(CT), 14V (single). $25. Pending

Hi guys. I am looking for a single Input transformer: Lundahl LL7901. I am in California. Thanks!

Hi. Never built a stereo Hi-Fi amp before but have built a lot of guitar amps.
The son is getting more into classical music than the previous obsession, jazz, and I thought that i build him a stere amp for his record player.
I have no experience in hi-if builds. Less THD than in a guitar amp and less gain?
What I have on hand: 6SL/N’s, 12ax7’s, 6V6, 6L6 (original ones and gc’s) and some EL34.
Hardware: two Hammond 125CSE (8w) a 30H choke and a Hammond 290ABX PT (no bias nor UL tap).
Can I build something good sounding with those? Any suggestions? 6V6’s or triode strapped EL34’s? Any good schematics that could be shared?

Hello ,
I have to sell pair of accuton passive radiator P 280 , item is unuse brought for my speaker and now happy with seal box by
Price pair for $280
Plus shipping and PayPal fee .
Ship from Singapore
Best regard
Myint

I'm looking for a Fidelity Research FR-24 MK2 or FR-54 in good condition. Shipped to Madrid, Spain. Thanks

Does anyone have a source to purchase a good quality speed calibration cassette tape? I used to have an older Nakamichi test tape, but it was worn out to the point it was inaccurate. I was looking for the highest quality one I could find, as I frequently transfer from tape to computer and want accurate result - I'm suspicious of the tapes being sold on line, mainly because they're duplicated or generated from lower quality tape decks which are already inaccurate.

Im planing to soon use my earlier diy cabinetts, it´s built like a larger JBL TL-250 model.
My plan for end results is a 4-way sound of "older" jbl-sound.

Will be using these drivers:

JBL 2235H up to ca 150 hz
JBL E-145 150-6-700 hz
AGA CD driver with "Baby butt" massive horn 6-700-7000 hz ( 20-25 kilo each horn)
JBL 2405/077 supertweeter 7000hz and up

The total volyme in the cabinette is around 160 liter, which approx. 130 liters is a separate box.
Baffle is 80 mm thick.

And my ide is to use the E-145 mounted in front baffle ( where the ordenary woofer sits), and make a separate chamber about ca 20 liter.
And make a new hole at the back of the cabinette for the 2235h, working in about 110 liters.

Is the volyme for both E-145 and 2235h sufficient ?
I have played a little in Winisd and for the E-145 litervolyme both with vented and closed box, but don´t seems to matter that much if used from 150 hz, or is im wrong ?

Now the 2235h used in JBL B380 subwoofer uses 127 liter

What do you think about my project hifi people ?

/John

Hi,
Could someone please help with the service manual for the JVC JA-S44 integrated Amp?
I've got the schematic (in rather poor quality), but need the service manual to fix this little nice amp...
Thanks in advance 🙂

I have 2 amps for sale.

1. NC400 +SMPS monoblock pair. Asking 800usd include ship and paypal

2. NC502mp pair in single metal chasis - Asking 825usd include ship and paypal

interested please PM me. Ship from S.E Asia

Hello ..

I was modifying a karaoke pcb, in attempt to fix microphonics , when part of pcb was touched/tapped it produced sound in speakers, this circuit used JRC 4580 op-amp and PT2339 for echo.
when reading PT2339 datasheet got this idea to add circuit for Auto double track (sound like two people singing). Searched internet found some article on phase shifter.
My question is it practical to use op-amp phase shifter to achive Audo double track effect, if some had tried please share your points.

Thank You

Hi,

Following the abandonment of my project. I am selling one brand new NC502MP with a cable kit.

Perfect module for any DIY project.
Can drive any sensitive speakers.

Safe value for diyer )

Like new !
free shipment to Europe only.
Paypal Please.

Price : 440€ + cable set + free shipment



SPEC :


Power max. 2x350W @ 8Ω
2x500W @ 4Ω
2x450W @ 2Ω
Support full balanced inputs
THD+N 0.0018%
SNR 124dB
Noise output : 47µV
Output impedance : 1.5mΩ
Reponse : 10Hz - 48kHz
max senstivity à 2.35V RMS
XLR : 2x1.17V RMS
RCA : 2.35V RMS
Efficiency 92%

Hello,

Modified Karaoke microhone bass/treble input stage for removing microphonic effect on original PCB.

Issue was around Bass Treble and Echo mixer circuit. removed op-amp and related components for bass treble, replaced with circuit made on veroboard.
Schematic based on jrc4558 preamplifier circuit published in componentsinfo (Not posting URL)
opsting original schematic and modified one. (water mark is there in image).
Modified values (based on articles online) maked in red.

Tried both Inverting and on-inverting circuit, Inverting op-amp circuit has more distortion , hum noise when connected, this does not happen with Non-Inverted op-amp circuit.

Imput 1 and 2 is from another op-amp from microhphone UHF receiver circuit.

Modification removed microphonic effect.

Issue faced: when one of the mic (single mic) is used it works good, turned mic volume pot full, no distorsion.
Switched on scond mic, turn voume up, whem more than half way hum starts increases in volume by itself, when second mic volume turned down it goes off.
accidentally touched preamp resistor on pin 2 / 6 reduces this hum sound (there is other distorsion due to touching).

will it help if 33pf capacitor is connected in parrallel across 100K (feedback) ?

Requesting help to make circuit stable when using both mics.

Original Schematic:


Modified schematic:: Used RJC4580, two



Thank You

Any one ever use a DCB1 with the First watt F4?

This amp from a friend sounds good - go to
https://www.stereophile.com/content/naim-audio-nait-5si-integrated-amplifier-measurements
But sometimes (not often) right channel sounds with heavy reduced level and increased distortion on all inputs (unfortunately not sensitive to vibration and temperature variation).

PCB is mainly equipped with SMD parts (except power devices, the big BHC elcaps behind the rectifiers and any few others).
Without circuit diagram troubleshooting is too difficult and sending to Naim Audio will be very expensive due replace the complete main board there.

Who can upload the schematics ?
Thanks for your effort.

P.S.: this thread don't provide the wanted information:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/naim-nait-5i.322055/

You may have noticed the diyAudio store has got a bit of a facelift today.

We've been busy over the last few months upgrading and modernizing almost every system that the store uses, in order to provide you with a better experience, more affordable shipping options and better communications.

All customers​

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  • We now stock a small but growing range of chassis in our US warehouse and are focusing on US origin shipments.
  • Everything that was previously available is still available for purchase directly from Hifi2000.
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USA customers​

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Thank you very much for your support.

If you have any questions or see any bugs, problems, or something looks like it is out of place, please contact the helpdesk at contact@diyaudiostore.com or post in this thread for general discussion.

I bough some cheap custom speaker with mb quart 95-6383 and would like to have speak on those tweeter. They play very loud and clear but they are too loud vs the midrange speaker.

they are paired with 10 inches woofer from addison and the only cross over in a simple capacitor on the tweeter.

i guess one solution to hear the woofer a little more and see if there is something to do with those speaker would be to add l-pad to the tweeter?

Hey all,

Looking for documentation for the Curcio CD12V dac. Hopefully somebody has held on to it and can share. I've reached out to Joe Curcio without success.

Background: I have a working CD12V that I picked up at an Estate Sale. Didn't know what it was until I got it home. The DAC has been working and in use intermittently without significant issues since.

You can read about the score here:
DIY tube pre-amp(s) identification help needed | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums

The reason I want to locate the original documentation is because I would like sort out a couple things on the unit.

1. There are 3 LED's on the front panel, one is obviously power, another illuminates upon "Lock" with the CD player, but the 3rd LED never illuminates. I cannot for the life of me figure out what it is for. Maybe for 48khz instead of 44.1khz? Or is it a non-functioning MUTE circuit?
   
2. If it's possible to reduce the gain or output level?
   
3. Maybe adding a Mute switch? It seems like I've seen that option on the few examples seen on the web. When the unit is powered up, but when there is no lock on a digital signal there is some annoying noise that will come through the system.
   
4. I also want to explore adding multiple inputs. I know this won't be reflected in the documentation. I will probably look for an off the shelf DIY kit (i.e., Twisted Pear Audio) and will need to identify a place to tap power for whichever kit I locate.

Maybe y'all can help me solve the gain issue without the documentation. Curcio lists the output level as 4.4v RMS on his website. He also posts the attached schematic. I've circled R121 and R122, which look to me like they may be a voltage divider (?) and a good place to adjust the output level?

R121 and R122 appear to be 470Ω and 3.3M based on visual inspection of band codes. They are just before "LO" which I believe stands for "Line Out"?

I'm guessing the simplest solution would be to add a pot on the analog output of the DAC. But, if I can simply change out these resistors I would think that would be better than adding another component. I would really like to get the DAC output down to something like 1.5 - 2.2v output to gain match with the rest of the components in my system.

Any other suggestions? This unit is set up for 12AT7's, not 6DJ8's. Is there a 12AT7 substitute with less gain? Is there a way to adjust gain in the circuit closer to the tubes? Like in a feedback loop?

I have the most basic understanding of tube circuits and can read a schematic OK. But, figuring this out is a little over my head and need some hand-holding.

Thanks in advance!

I Have A Processor of Mitsubshi 8 chanel 7.1 Audio Processor...........It Having a datasheet............i want help how to make a code for that processor

Hi all I could use some expert advice,

Does anyone have some advice on the following? I am making a tube preamp on basis of a CAT SL-1 PCB I got somewhere (I am a noob who is still learning so I use other peoples pcb's for my builds atm), according to text on the pcb it requires two secondaries:
- 250VAC 80mA
- 6.3VAC 3A

These are the tubes this preamp uses:
1x ECC82
2x ECC83
1x ECC88

Can I use the following toroid?
- 250v 500mA
- 0 - 6,3V - 9V / 8A

Is the amperage not too high for what I need? will that lead to problems?
What best to do with the 9v lead to prevent interference? just snip it off or wind it around the 6,3v lead?

And if instead I use a toroid with a 3,15 - 0 - 3,15V secondary, what to do with the center tap so it doesnt interfere with anything? Just snip it off? braid it with the other leads and leaving it unconnected? or connect to ground via a ground lift circuit maybe?

The groud lift circuit I plan to implement consists of 35A rectifier bridge, 10ohm 5watt resistor, 100nf filmcap that sits between star ground and chassis ground/mains ground, I want to include that for safety regardless of the above, is that a good decision?

Thanks,

Rorenheizer

All parts are in pairs ,some in quad.Verry little used and top condition.Some are new.Look on the pictures for typ and values.I dont need this anymore,so if someone need some of this just contact me.I would sell this for around half of price of new or best offer.For new prices look on hifi collective UK where I buy this.

Hello all,

I am a young 17 year old audio geek - not audiophile sounds to old 🤣 - looking to upgrade my Pioneer A-351R.

My dad bought it in 1993 for my Grandparents and it has brought about lots of joy over the years. From playing Madness, ABBA, Spice Girls, Ronan Keating, Bob Marley and lots of Salsa CDs, driving everyone mad with the same songs played all the time.

Until 6 years ago, when my uncle bought a cheap Toshiba TV and it had a 3.5mm jack to Audio and Video RCA connectors, where I had a idea of plugging it into a PC and piping Spotify through to the amp. To my shock it worked, and it truly did amaze me!

However, in the last 5 years I became more of an avid listener to the setup. So I upgraded the original speakers paired the amp from Mission 760i to Mission 751.
This made me appreciate the sound more as it had more low end grunt, and also a snuck in a Mordaunt Short MS309i which I bought from eBay to get some deeper low end bass.

But now I find to my ears the sound can be harsh sometimes and a bit muffled too, is there any components in this amplifier worth upgrading to squeeze some more performance out of it?

as I don't want to lose it just yet...

Hello, new to the DIY Audio site. I recently acquired a Threshold S-300 Mk II with the factory installed "e" updates including balanced inputs. The previous owner had no knowledge regarding the history of the amp so I contacted Threshold to see if there was any record of when updates were done. They indicated it would have been over 20 years ago since that's how far back their records go and they recommended replacing the PS caps and bridge rectifier. I can do that myself but I would like advice on what bridge rectifier would be best. I've searched through other post and came across two different parts that were used, a KBPC3504 or a IXYS HexFRED. Any opinions on which would be best or best suited? Thanks

Very nice idea by Erin to densify the discussion on the most relevant speakers of today :

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Some other LS needed to be included for more fairness?

Lets get this board flooded with well-reasoned arguments!


(whew I build my 1st speaker around 1973 .. what a looong journey full of enjoyment)

I have a new to me pair of Threshold SA2 Optical Bias amplifiers. They sound fantastic in their original condition unrestored condition. I will eventually have them restored but my budget may not allow for now. I have noticed 1 of the 2 mono amps is running slightly warmer than the other, about 5 degrees on top cover and about 7-8 degrees at the center of the heat sinks (one amp at 100 degree and other at 107 degrees on center of heat sink at idle 20 minutes). Is this something an adjustment to the bias would resolve? Does anyone have the procedure for doing so? Is the small difference even worth addressing at all? Thank you. Charles

In rotation. Some of Bartons best work. From "i" silvrer line. Actually I think there only branded as the "mini". I've heard these were created primarily for 2 channel listening. But made perfect rear channel stand ins for the multi channel. 2ch only for me. 2.2

English speakers from that time period are also nice. We might have a few fans of those here 😉.

With so many new speakers coming out its easy to forget some.

About a year ago I ordered a laptop keyboard from Walmart (shipping from Hong Kong), estimated delivery two weeks.
I received the part in 2 days, the USPS tracking number arrived on day three and did not match the package that I received,
After a week I noticed that my tracking number was delivered in Ohio ( I live in Florida ). I asked Walmart why is my package delivered in Ohio? They said that my package had already been delivered and sent me a picture of the package at my doorstep.
Part 2.
In May of this year I ordered another part from Walmart, shipping from Hong Kong, estimated 2 weeks delivery. The part arrived in 2 days and the tracking number on day 3. Tracking number did not match package.
I month after delivery date that was promised by Walmart USPS still does not have the package.
I contact Walmart and they say that the package is lost and refund my money.
WTF

Hi, I'm a total beginner to all this stuff. So I apologize if this is the wrong place to ask this question, or if it doesn't make much sense.

I want to build/isolate the Preamp section of a Fender Hot Rod DeVille 212 III. How would I do that? I can somewhat read schematics, but again I completely new to this so I don't knew where I would local the preamp. What part of the schematic should I be focusing on?
Thanks

Hi,

I bought a pair of KEF Concord - Vintage 1970's speakers and tested the ohms on each tweeter. One is 8 ohm and the other 16. Is this ok or should I rather get a matching set. The issue is that they are rare and hard to find here in South Africa.

Thanks for assistance in advance 🙂

Hi all, I have a Denon 760BL on the bench with odd output issues.

When set to 4ch mode Unbalanced
Channel A input

Output is as follows
Ch A
Left is low distorted,
Right is normal

Ch B
Left is low distorted
Right is normal

When set to 4ch mode Unbalanced
Channel B input

Ch A
Left is normal
Right has no audio

Ch B
Left is high vol distorted
Right is high vol distorted

Turning up input sensitivity on input B causes the amp to trip the relays and it won't turn back on unless the gain is turned down.

I've removed the veritcle boards, cleaned the pots and switches with deoxit and no difference.

The amp idles at around 2 amps
Turning up the gain on input b causes it to draw excessive current then it trips the fuses.

Any help appreciated. Thanks

Hi All

New things up for grabs:

Item #1:

BHC Areovox 680uF ALS30A 450VDC UK Made Capacitors - Pair, with mounting clamps.



They measure a bit lower than 680uF on my capacitance meter, but are superb quality. CHF 20.- / Pair plus shipping.

Item #2:

Siemens Germany B43471 80uF 450V Capacitors - 4 pieces with mounting clamps (not shown)


These are excellent quality, and all measure well around 90uF on my capacitance meter. CHF 20.- for all 4 Caps plus shipping

Item #3

Nippon Chemicon 560uF 420V Capacitors. 100% Japan made. 95U06L



These measure a bit lower on my capacitance meter, but are excellent Japan quality. CHF 20.- Pair plus shipping.

Item #4:

RDE 33000uF 16V Germany Made Capacitors




These are superb German quality caps. CHF 10.- / Pair or Lot of 9 pieces for CHF 30.- plus shipping.

Item #5:

Tesla E180F Made in Czechoslovakia Gold Pin NOS Tubes



These are all NOS tubes. Never used, still in original boxes. One box is slightly different style. CHF 10.- / Pair or the whole lot of 8 tubes for CHF 30.- plus shipping.

Item #6

Vintage 100mA Meters - MR36W100DCMAR



Vintage great NOS condition. USA made by A&M model 365-431 analogue mA meters. I have two of these available. CHF 30.- Each or CHF 50.- / Pair plus shipping.


Shipping is from Switzerland, and swiss post is not inexpensive (it goes by weight) but I will only charge you what I pay.

FREE STUFF:

As in my other threads, I also am giving away free stuff when it is of interest to a buyer and if weight limits allow. Right now I have some input selectors, a few Noble stereo pots, some gold plated ceramic octal sockets. Who know what else I will find? 😉

Ian

I created a video on how to do digital room correction with Volumio. While I use the PecanPi Streamer in this video it will apply to any volumio device.

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I'm using a PC case as an amplifier Chassis.

It has a built in momentary switch which i would like to use to turn the amp on.

Could someone advise me on a fused relay board that would allow me to use this particular button to turn on and off the 230v supply?

Kenwood KR-9400 tone control board.



There are 10 capacitors on the board marked in red above that are 6.8 uF 10v bipolar electrolytics. That is such an odd value, not something I keep on hand. I have polar, but not non polar. Would there be any significant harm by increasing to 10 uF? I have dozens of 10 uF 25v Nichicon ES or I could do 2.2 and 3.3 in parallel and go down a little, but would really prefer to use a single cap in each location. I’m really trying to avoid placing an order for one item and if I buy extra to get the cost per piece down it’s likely I’d never need them again, I haven’t until now.

Thank you,
Dan

For reasons like small room, thin walls (etc) I've decided to make a set of speakers suitable for close-listening. I'm hesitating to use the term nearfield because aparently it means different things to different people, but here I mean close enough that room effects will become diminished and SPL will be much higher at the listening position than at the party-walls. Maybe 500mm or a couple of feet between speakers and ears. This is a new venture for me but some early trials have been very positive; rather than the compromise expected, I very much like the audible results of listening close-up.

Also new to me, I've decided to go with full-range drivers; partly because there seem to be some advantages for very close-listening distances and partly because I've so far been more of a multi-way-multi-amped guy, so if i'm ever going to enjoy full-range drivers then this close-listening project is going to be my opportunity to try them. I've selected and bought a couple of markaudio Alpair 11MS drivers for the purpose. On hearing them, it is possible they'll be used in a WAW configuration, with the woofer low enough to be positioned somewhere physically less obtrusive.

Is the high pressure zone of the qw resonator ‘longer’ in the conical pipe allowing more drivers to be in an area of cone control Instead of puking their guts out when driven hard?

Patrick Bateman drawing of Tom Danleys Matterhorn( example) and then horn response sim used to try and find the second resonance (using offset driver) To try and investigate this possibly?? driver location in just past 1/2 in this vs a straight pipe (@ just past 1/3)

Another crazy example:

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZT8eu2P5x/

Hi,

I'm working around a "P101 by Rod Elliott" amplifier and, for space reason, I will use two cases.
One will contain:

• a 600VA PSU @ +/- 56V DC (with softstart module)
• a +5V, +12V PSU
• a +/- 15V PSU

The other will contain:

• P101 audio modules (2 boards)
• board with two relays to connect audio outputs "on/off"
• protection board for DC out
• P97 preamplifier (by Rod Elliott)
• board with Raspberry Pico that will manage protections and base functions

My need is to connect the various voltages from the "PSU case" to the other, I thought about several speakon connectors (for panel type) but maybe there is some other connector that fit better with 11 or more lines?
Any suggestion?
The "+/- 56V" lines should support up to 10A, the other lines are all low power.
Thank you, best regards.

Roberto

Hello forum.

just built an Aleph J two years ago and am very satisfied with its sound.

As time passes by I´d like to build another design, that´s on par or better sounding than my actual amp.

Has anyone heared both amps and could do a little comparison or another recommendation?
Speakers are Tang-Band FR.

Many thanks and best
Rents

Hello

I'm working on this JBL GTO24001
I arrive at my laboratory with the charred resistor R200 (2r2 5W). I replaced it and it is working perfectly, all the signals are in place, but the idle current is 10 amps. An atrocity.
I have checked with the thermographic camera every corner of the amplifier, but everything is normal. No component is overheating.

Has anyone had a similar problem?

Greetings.

Hi all,

I'm looking for a good wireless streamer to feed my ADI-2 Pro DAC. So the streamer doesn't need to have a DAC. I am not an expert so I probably don't even know what to ask for, except simple requirements like being able to stream from USB disk, and over the WiFi from my network storage.
Also would be nice to be able to listen to radio like on TuneIn.
I have previously used Bubble uPnP from my smart phone.
My personal collection is all FLAC.

Recommendations? Ballpark € 1k.

Edit: anyone have experience with the CAMBRIDGE AUDIO CXN V2?

Jan

Used top condition,top caps for crossovers,verry transparent but smooth and rich in tone.Verry goid for aluminium,titanium or berillium tweeters.Used for about a year.Iv made the wires a bit longer with kimber vs wire.Price would be 70 euro including shipping with track inside EU!

Hi not a new member but did take a break and was asked to re-verify email. Can you please remove moderation?

Was looking at Void Audio page and just found out that Rog Mogale is one of the founders and technical directors of VOID

his plans for scoops around 2002 are on the freespekaeplans forum among others

besides the scoops there are other designs from Rog , most of them are for the PD1850, altough for todays standards i think it is outdated

as a side note , on 2024 or 2025 the danley horn patent will expire so the whitepapers will be de-classified. 🙂

Im selling my HP 339A which needs a little restoration. I posted it on Craigslist here:

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ele/d/pleasanton-hp-339a-distortion-analyzer/7638749317.html

A friend of me will start a collection of all exist Threshold models - at least of all exist power amplifiers.
This brings me to the idea, to start this thread with an information collection with a listing of (first only all me known) models and miscelaneous parts/PCB's.

please help me to complete this list - there are probably missing a few models, especially the universal PCB names of various modules and special/custom made parts used in various amp models (eg front-end, VU-Meter PCB).Thank you therefore.
In the next time I will also redrawn those circuit diagrams, where the original schematic documents are difficult to read.

Most listed models I have found about
Threshold-Audio.com

First Series:
800A 200 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1975-77)
800S ???? unknown
400A 100 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1976-79)
4000 200 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1977-79, successor 400A)
800A Schematic
Threshold 800A and 800S
Threshold 800A Help!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass...els-mospec-2n5876-2n5878-mj21193-mj21194.html
Threshold 800A assistance
400A or Stasis 3?
Threshold 400 a
Threshold 400 A
Buying a 400A
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/131030-would-work-400a.html
Threshold 400A HELP !!
Threshold 4000
Threshold! (4000 vs 800A)
Threshold (4000 400A CAS1)
Elettronica audio - (a cura di Piercarlo Boletti): QUAD 405 - 2 - Seconda parte (800A - high resolution schema, scroll down)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/55055-threshold-400a-parts-substitution-mods.html
Threshold 400A Power supply help
AudiogoN Reviews: Threshold 400a Amplifier (photo)

Cascode Amplifier (CAS) Series (Emitter Cascode Follower as Power Buffer)
CAS-1 75 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1979-81)
CAS-2 125 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1979-81)
THRESHOLD CAS-2 poweramp.
Threshold CAS 1
Threshold (4000 400A CAS1)

Stasis-Series:
STASIS-1 200 Watt STASIS MonoBlock Power Amplifier (1979-81)
STASIS-2 200 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1979-81)
STASIS-3 125 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1979-81)
SA-1 160 Watt STASIS MonoBlock Power Amplifier (1984-88)
SA-2 100 Watt STASIS MonoBlock Power Amplifier (1984-88)
SA-3 50 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1984-88)
S/150 (two series) 75 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1982-84)
S/200 (two series) 100 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1984-86)
S/300 (two series) 150 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1983-88)
S/500 (two series) 250 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1983-88)
S/1000 (two series) 500 Watt STASIS MonoBlock Power Amplifier (1984-88)
SA/3.9e 60 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1990-94)
SA/4e 100 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1989-95)
SA/6e 125 Watt STASIS MonoBlock Power Amplifier (1990-94)
SA/10e 175 Watt STASIS MonoBlock Power Amplifier (1990-94)
SA/12e 250 Watt STASIS MonoBlock Power Amplifier (1989-95)
stasis 2 and 3 schematics
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/64795-stasis-2-problem.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/92677-stasis-one-meter.html
Threshold Stasis 2.
Threshold Stasis 2.
threshold stasis 2
Threshold Stasis Model 3
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/92618-another-threshold-stasis-2-rebuild.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/34288-threshold-stasis-3-too.html
Stasis 3 Power Transistors
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/112339-threshold-s-200-a.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/158093-threshold-sa-sa-e-series-monoblocks.html
Stereophile: Threshold SA-1 monoblock power amplifier (SA-1)
Schematic and help with Threshold SA/4 (post #34: Instruction for bias adjust)

Threshold's New-Owner Series:
T 50 50 Watt/Channel Stereo Power Amplifier (1994-98)
T 100 60 Watt/Channel Stereo Power Amplifier (1994-98)
T 200 100 Watt/Channel Stereo Power Amplifier (1994-98)
T 400 150 Watt/Channel Stereo Power Amplifier (1994-98)
T 800 and T 800D 200 Watt/Channel Stereo Power Amplifier (1996-98)
TA-300 150 Watt/Channel Stereo Power Amplifier (1993)
S/160 80 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1992-94)
S/250 125 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1992-94)
S/350e 150 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1990-94)
S/450e 200 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1990-94)
S/550e 250 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power Amplifier (1990-94)
S/1600 750 Watt STASIS MonoBlock Power Amplifier (1989-1994)
Threshold SA/2 SA/3 Soderburg site?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/144136-biasproblems-threshold-sa-1-a.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/146232-schematics-threshold-series-i-ii.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/142576-threshold-s-1000-series-ii.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/140152-help-schematic-threshold-s-1000-series-ii.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/136361-threshold-sa-50-a.html#post1953481
diyAudio

Unknown models:
500 ???
500/II ???
Threshold 500II
maybe SA-500 and Stasis 500 MK-II ??

not mentioned power amplifier models
about Threshold-Audio.com
but mentioned about http://www.audiopathways.com/Threshold.htm
preamp Stasis R 3.0 and 5.0
integrated Amp: Dragon V
5ch Power Amp: S-3500-E
Stereo Power Amp: Stasis 7.0 - Stasis 8.0 - S-5000-E
MonoBlock S-7000-E

Upgrade Kits:
???? ........................please let me know more, whether there are such kits or not.

PCBs and special parts for various models:
various protection unit's: PCB part No 254-6000
Front end modules (FE-89, FE90), Universal FEB, Universal Error Correction PCB
Universal LED Driver PCB for VU Light Band Displays (multi element bar graph array) e. g.
Electronics-Lab.com Blog VU meter
PCB for VU Light Band LED Display (multi element bar graph array)
VU Light Band VFD (Vakuum Fluoreszenz)-PCB
Analogue VU Moving Coil Panel Peak Indicator Meter
....................please let me know all the existing things - I have only found that from the attachement

Stereo Line + RIAA Preamplifier
NS-10 Stereo Preamplifier (1977-79)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/26003-threshold-ns-10-m1-info-wanted.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/76557-threshold-ns10-lineamp-pcb-21.html?postid=1634684
SL-10 Stereo Preamplifier (1979-81)
Threshold sl-10?
threshold sl10
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/151645-threshold-sl-10-a.html#post1937332
FET-1 (two series) Stereo Preamplifier (1981-85)
Threshold FET1
FET-2 (two series) Stereo Preamplifier (1981-85)
FET-9 Stereo Preamplifier with Phone Stage (1986-89)
FET-10Pc Stereo Phone Gain Stage (1986-89)
FET-10HL Stereo High Level Preamplifier (1986-89)
FET-9e Stereo Preamplifier with Phone Stage (1990-94)
FET-10Pe Stereo Phone Gain Stage (1990-98)
FET-10He Stereo High Level Preamplifier (1990-94)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/113706-threshold-fet-10-he-service-manual.html
Threshold Fet 10/hl Opinion ?
Threshold fet ten/pc schematics
T 2 Remote Control Stereo Preamplifier (1994-98)
T 3/T 3i Remote Control Stereo Preamplifier (1994-98)

crossover/DAC
PCX (-X10) Stereo Electronic Crossover (1987-89)
DAC1e Digital to Analog Convertor (1992-96)
DAC2 Digital to Analog Convertor (1995-98)

various URL's concerning Threshold devices:
Threshold Lovers - Threshold - Product line history
archiveamps
Stammtisch für HiFi- und Musik-Freunde | PASS LABS | Threshold
By Threshold history site not mentioned models: e.g. Stasis R-3.0 - Stasis R-5.0 - T Zero
Threshold Audo from AudioPathic

Hi guys,
Greetings from Lisbon, Portugal.

I have a Cambridge Audio 851N streamer with a Plinius Hautonga amplifier and Monitor Audio Platinum PL200II speakers.
Happy with the results and although the CA 851N sounds really nice for the price, it's probably the weakest link in my system right now.

I've been thinking about modding and tuning this streamer and would love to read your opinions.

1 - replace the standard voltage regulators (8 of them) by high quality discrete voltage regulators. These discrete voltage regulators can be found at around 10 USD/EUR each but the ones from Sparkos cost around 40 USD. This would be a 320 USD/EUR mod.
I actually found an article about this specific mod:
Cambridge Audio Azur Reviewed with Discrete Voltage Regulator Upgrade

2 - Swapping the 6 opamps for better ones.
Again, someone has done it.
https://hifi-ifas.de/cambridge-audio-851n-hoerwege-vs-cambridge-851n-streamer-test

3 - Replace the capacitors
4 - Replace the RCA plug for WBT plugs

Would love to hear your opinions one the benefits of these mods.
I know that high-quality components produce better results, just not sure if some mods are worth it when it comes to cost/benefit.

Thank you
Andre Antunes

This came from a lot of items from an estate sale, the guy had a massive parts supply and racks of misc equipment.
There's a strange lead coming out the rear, sort of looks like an electromagnet of some sort.
I didn't power it up not knowing what its used for.

Hello,

Just a quick question that Google didn't have an answer for... I was checking out this Ciare woofer:

http://www.loudspeakerdatabase.com/Ciare/HS251

and noticed the 8+8 Ohm specification.

What's that for?

It's not summing stereo to mono is it?

Confused...