Im planing to soon use my earlier diy cabinetts, it´s built like a larger JBL TL-250 model.
My plan for end results is a 4-way sound of "older" jbl-sound.
Will be using these drivers:
JBL 2235H up to ca 150 hz
JBL E-145 150-6-700 hz
AGA CD driver with "Baby butt" massive horn 6-700-7000 hz ( 20-25 kilo each horn)
JBL 2405/077 supertweeter 7000hz and up
The total volyme in the cabinette is around 160 liter, which approx. 130 liters is a separate box.
Baffle is 80 mm thick.
And my ide is to use the E-145 mounted in front baffle ( where the ordenary woofer sits), and make a separate chamber about ca 20 liter.
And make a new hole at the back of the cabinette for the 2235h, working in about 110 liters.
Is the volyme for both E-145 and 2235h sufficient ?
I have played a little in Winisd and for the E-145 litervolyme both with vented and closed box, but don´t seems to matter that much if used from 150 hz, or is im wrong ?
Now the 2235h used in JBL B380 subwoofer uses 127 liter
What do you think about my project hifi people ?
/John
My plan for end results is a 4-way sound of "older" jbl-sound.
Will be using these drivers:
JBL 2235H up to ca 150 hz
JBL E-145 150-6-700 hz
AGA CD driver with "Baby butt" massive horn 6-700-7000 hz ( 20-25 kilo each horn)
JBL 2405/077 supertweeter 7000hz and up
The total volyme in the cabinette is around 160 liter, which approx. 130 liters is a separate box.
Baffle is 80 mm thick.
And my ide is to use the E-145 mounted in front baffle ( where the ordenary woofer sits), and make a separate chamber about ca 20 liter.
And make a new hole at the back of the cabinette for the 2235h, working in about 110 liters.
Is the volyme for both E-145 and 2235h sufficient ?
I have played a little in Winisd and for the E-145 litervolyme both with vented and closed box, but don´t seems to matter that much if used from 150 hz, or is im wrong ?
Now the 2235h used in JBL B380 subwoofer uses 127 liter
What do you think about my project hifi people ?
/John
Attachments
I use that woofer combination E-145 and 2235 and it works quite well. I have the E-145's in 5 cubic Ft tuned 40 Hz and the 2235's in B 380 clone cabinets tuned to 26 Hz using a BX-63A driving them with the Q2 +6 db bump filter. Crossed at 80 Hz.
Those cabinets are nice. Never saw the horn before, what is it made out of?? I have my set-up in standard cabinets. Also using a different top end 2123 10" mid and a 2453 SL on a PTH1010. I used to have 2344 horns with 2426's.
Should be nice when you get it all together.
Rob
Those cabinets are nice. Never saw the horn before, what is it made out of?? I have my set-up in standard cabinets. Also using a different top end 2123 10" mid and a 2453 SL on a PTH1010. I used to have 2344 horns with 2426's.
Should be nice when you get it all together.
Rob
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Wow Rob, that setup looks to have great qualification to "top-sound"
How high up are you using the 2235h and E-145 ? ( is it a 4-way speaker?)
The JBL 2453 SL is 113 dB, how you level the system?
You have a nice volyme of 141 liters for the E145 and 226 liter for the 2235h.
I wonder how my E-145 will work in only 20 liter from 150 hz?, and if i have to rebuild the cabinette so the 2235h have larger volyme to work in, or if 110 liters is sufficiently.
In my cabinette i have about 26 liter volyme above the 130 liter, so maby i need to rebuild it so i´ts 156 liter in total.
The "baby butt" horn is build of many layers of thin chipboard, carved and worked on many many hours.
And i have a "damping layer" of special-bitumen-mix, between the CD and the horn ( to avoid any resonances)
But i think i will paint it in black matte finish.
Nice to se your system Rob
/John
Hello John
Thanks, It is an active 4 way 80 Hz, 300 Hz and 1.5 Khz are the crossover points. When you use your box program check the VAS value. It's not correct in the tables. I am attaching a thread on the E-145 that explains why VAS s/b 428. The E-145 likes a big box so plan accordingly. The 2453 uses a passive pad and the CD compensation is also passive that helps match the driver levels.
Rob
https://www.audioheritage.org/vbull...-The-purpose-of-JBL-E145/page2&highlight=e145
Thanks, It is an active 4 way 80 Hz, 300 Hz and 1.5 Khz are the crossover points. When you use your box program check the VAS value. It's not correct in the tables. I am attaching a thread on the E-145 that explains why VAS s/b 428. The E-145 likes a big box so plan accordingly. The 2453 uses a passive pad and the CD compensation is also passive that helps match the driver levels.
Rob
https://www.audioheritage.org/vbull...-The-purpose-of-JBL-E145/page2&highlight=e145
Hi again Rob
Is VAS really important when using the JBL E-145 from 150 hz and up?
I was thinking VAS "only" matters when you want to build a low frequency box aka "subwoofer" build.
Okey, so you onlt use the 2235h up to 80 hz, why not a little higher up ?
And then you use the E-145 from 40-300 hz, so both E-145 and 2235h working together between 40-80 hz?
And the 2123 from 300-1,5 K.
How long is your listeningdistance ?
I just love the sound these older JBL papercone speakers produce, voices, aukustic guitars etc...It´s like the "real thing"
And when i was given the chance to buy these JBL drivers from a 80 year old gentleman here in Sweden, i couldent resist.
Original owner bought around 1990 never used them more then a little testing and in original boxes with same serialnumbers both or the 2235h, E-145 and 2405/077.
How big chance is that nowaday´s
I also try 2 times to registrate on audioheritage.org before, but newer get an answer from administrators.
And today it say´s " Sorry, registration has been disabled by the administrator"
And Rob.....Do you own Urei 801c ?
/John
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Hello John
It will shift the F3 by a few hz and I knew it was wrong so why not use the right value.
They are both crossed at 80 Hz 24 db L/R active crossover. I get the best blend between the drivers there.
Yes 300 to 1.5K I am close 8-9 ft I like them as well!
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You were lucky take good care of them original re-cone kits are getting harder and harder to find!
Yes there is a forum issue going on. Yes I do own an 801 C used it as my center channel for years.
Rob
Fantastic!
I have read a lot of the Urei.
In 2000-2003 or so i bought a newconed JBL 2215h ( without knowing it´s specs), from Sound of Singer in New York.
And sometimes trought the years i have put it on the floor on pillows pointed at me, just to play through a 200 hz filter, and every time a was so impressed over the sound. ( and think its the best ive heard from 200 hz)
And when i Google it i se it was only used in the Urei 813/815 speaker.
/John
Greets!
Technically, based on these E145 specs and assuming some series resistance, age, etc., that lowers its upper mass corner (Fhm); yes.
Can't really interpret your post GM, can you try explain it in a simpler way.
As like to a newbi....English is also not my native language, and hifi have so many "technical words" which is not used particularly often in ordinary contexts.
Weighed the horns today, a whopping 31.5 kilos each "baby butt"
/John
So i have "built" a liittle, and it was real trickey to build a "inside" separate box for the JBL E-145.
Because 2 walls are inclined on my DIY cabinette( like JBL TL-250 ), so several different angles to saw out on the same small mdf pieces
It end up at about 28 liter netto for the E-145, but change my mind about mounting the JBL 2235h at the back.
Better mount it at left side of the cabinette, both for design and functon ( if the speaker is placed near frontwall )
Tuned the 2235h to around 28 hz, and that needed 2 x 100 mm port 472 mm long to come near the 160 cm2 port area that JBL recomend.
Also re-paint the JBL 2344a clone horn ( baby cheek) to mattvblack with matt clear coat.
Had 2 ports low in the box from before, but coulden´t use more then one of them because of the leight of 47,2 cm port needed.
So re-buildt the topp of the cabinette to be able to have one of the port at the highest point, over the JBL 2405h.
Trickey but do-able and 2 new pieces of mdf had to be made and painted. ( also paint the screws black after photo)
So tomorrow i can begain to measaure the 4 separate drivers, so i can begain to build a xover.
But i have one cabinette more to finish...and 20 hours of work to get it ready.
Best regards John
Because 2 walls are inclined on my DIY cabinette( like JBL TL-250 ), so several different angles to saw out on the same small mdf pieces
It end up at about 28 liter netto for the E-145, but change my mind about mounting the JBL 2235h at the back.
Better mount it at left side of the cabinette, both for design and functon ( if the speaker is placed near frontwall )
Tuned the 2235h to around 28 hz, and that needed 2 x 100 mm port 472 mm long to come near the 160 cm2 port area that JBL recomend.
Also re-paint the JBL 2344a clone horn ( baby cheek) to mattvblack with matt clear coat.
Had 2 ports low in the box from before, but coulden´t use more then one of them because of the leight of 47,2 cm port needed.
So re-buildt the topp of the cabinette to be able to have one of the port at the highest point, over the JBL 2405h.
Trickey but do-able and 2 new pieces of mdf had to be made and painted. ( also paint the screws black after photo)
So tomorrow i can begain to measaure the 4 separate drivers, so i can begain to build a xover.
But i have one cabinette more to finish...and 20 hours of work to get it ready.
Best regards John
Attachments
Understood. Click on the embedded 'technically' and specifically the 'horn loading' link for a complete list of definitions and where along a speaker's response each apply to and if still don't understand you can either ask specific questions here or probably better to contact a forum member posting in horn design related threads 'flying your flag' for help.
Also have read many times about the "error-VAS value in JBL E-145 spec, so my wdr files allready have corrected VAS value 431,99 in text-file for the E-145
Do the JBL E-145 VAS value mentioned, changes/mean anything in my ca 28 liter netto volym box for the E-145 using it from about 150 hz and up?
Slowley trying to learn knowlege about speakerbuilding, but up to this day i only thought VAS was importent for subwoofer/low-woofer builds regarding to box-volymes, tuning and SPL.
Regards John
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Can´t find a embedded "technically" on this site ?
So i need to go up to 275 hz you mean? ( 2 x 35/275 = 0,255)
I dont have skills for this type of knowlege`, so can you explain to me why the driver need to be > 2 x 35/150 = 0.467.
And what "happends" if the driver is Qts 0,255 but sits in 28 liter netto and used from 150 hz ?
Best regards John
This word in my post has an embedded link........can't you see the lighter, different color of such links?
Ahh now i can see it!
Its night here in Sweden and i have some program in my computer called f.lux that changes the screen after the sun/daylight here in Sweden ( take away eye-stimulation blue light etc)
And i can´t see it with the f.lux aktivated, but no when you told me i disable the program and then i can see it.
https://justgetflux.com/
Will read it GM
Regards John
In the linked thread is the 'horn' embedded link.
You'll need to have a good 'grasp'/basic understanding of T/S theory first.
That's what making a sim is for, i.e. shows how the box's acoustic properties alters/shapes the driver's.
No, this is just the upper limit of the box's T/S theory derived response and above this point/frequency it's solely based on its inductance, so if none inputted it will flat line off the end of the chart.
You'll need to have a good 'grasp'/basic understanding of T/S theory first.
That's what making a sim is for, i.e. shows how the box's acoustic properties alters/shapes the driver's.