I saw this month ago, but seems nobody's talking about it?

I wonder what that will be?

In my knowledge, if it's true, this is the first real graphene speaker?

Evening all

Has anyone done a successful crossover upgrade for the ProAC Response DT8 floorstanders as yet? :Looking for cap/resistor/inductor upgrades. I love the speakers but cannot resist the urge to upgrade/fiddle.

Rest of the system:

Thorens TD MKII heavily modified plinth and suspension, Handmade tonearm, Goldring E3 cartridge.
Cambridge Audio SM6 Streamer
Roksan Kandy KA1 MKIII Integrated Amplifier
Home-made interconnects and speaker cables to TNT Audio designs
Other speakers Custom built 105litre ported cabinets housing Tannoy 10" DC Drivers (HPD295A) and Batpure Supertweeter (these are fabulous but SWMBO has strictly banned them when we move to our new place in August!)

Music tastes Rock, Jazz, female and male vocals. I like it loud.

as some of you know , I am creating an external xo for my Proac DT8’s

I’m the xo woofer circuit there is an ALCAP 16uf cap, and on both speakers they measure a touch over 18uf.

im confused.

the woofer circuit has only an inductor and cap. Why would Proac put a cap in there that is +-10% ?
did they know these caps measured 18uf ?
was the design originally for a 16uf cap there but they just threw in a cap that measured a bit over 18uf?

im confused because i put in a Poly cap which reads 16uf and that value sounds quite a bit different than 18uf.
its not a bad sound but just different now that the woofer I’m assuming is crossing a bit higher.

i don’t get why someone would put in a cap that says 16uf but measures a bit over 18uf.

🤷‍♂️

for Sales Motorola 70 piece 2N5884 TO-3 and 70 piece 2N5886 TO-3 . 2N5884 and 2N5886 are about right for Audio Amplifier repairs. See at John Curl amp : https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/107592-john-curl-amp.html

The 2N5886 and 2N5884 transistors were used in the Mark Levinson ML-2 and ML/9 and the Sentec PA-8 Amplifier.
TheY are right for a Harman Kardon Citation 12 copy or repair. Rated for 80V and 200Watt.

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/mark-levinson-ml-2-problems.113457/page-2

Parts are NOS unused I bought them in 1998 from a German Distributor.

Shipping with registered mail. PayPal is accepted buyers needs to pay the additional PayPal fees from 4% with confirmed address!!. Shipping prices are different depends on the country. Register shipping by DHL. Drop me an email if you are interested.

thanks

Finwbu

I tried a design with the SB Audience 15OB350 and SB Acoustics 26ADC-C000-4, for use in an Infinite Baffle, so I acquired the ZMA and FDR and put them into Vituix.

I played around in XSim beforehand, and it has much less Info and Graphs,

The Questions are following:
-Are these Drivers usable together,
-The Resistor in series is pretty bad from what I heard
-Is the Phase Response okay

Or is there another design you would recommend for 2-Way Cinema?

Hi All,

New/Unused Triad, Talema and Toroidy transformers for sale.

Triad: FS120-02, 2.5 VA, 2 x 115 V / 2 x 60 V

Triad: F120-050, 6 VA, 115 V / 2 x 120 V (https://catalog.triadmagnetics.com/...ount-split-pack-power-transformers/f120-050-1)

Talema: 62051-P2S02, 15 VA, 2 x 115 V, 2 x 9 V (https://talema.com/wp-content/uploads/datasheets/62000.pdf)

Toroidy: TS20VA, 20 VA, 230 V, 2x10 V, screened and goss band (http://img.toroidy.pl/kk_eng/TS20.pdf)



Please PM.

Regards,
VS

Looking for help in determining two resistor values in this CA-101 audio generator.
This is a 'Madell' brand, although I see this identical CA-101 unit with other brandings
such as Lonwei, Tronon, TAG0101, RAG-101, etc.
I'm looking for a schematic or at least what the values of R41 and R43 are. If no schematic
is available, perhaps a kind-hearted owner of one might be willing to 'pop the hood' on
theirs and report.
In the accompanying picture R41 has been removed from the circuit board.
Both are so charred that the color bands cannot be succesfully read.
Thank you kindly,
Russ

I've seen reference to this display working by the use of rotating cylinders, looks backlit when in operation and not backlit when idle (but numbers still visible). It's not a mechanical counter, it's electronically controlled. Clearly not a Nixie tube either. I'm interested to find out more about it. It's from the 1960's. Anybody have a link to further information ??

I've seen some people ask why their speakers sound too bright, thin, and lack of bass, or something tonal imbalance. And many replies suggest your speakers are designed to position close to the wall or somewhere with boundary.

I wonder what are the design criteria of close-wall or far-wall speakers?

If I understand correctly, the close-wall speakers will sound a bit increase at high, the bright tone, while the far-wall speakers will sound decrease at high, or warm tone. Am I correct?

And which one do you prefer?

I can not for the life of me find these exact copies to buy anywhere!?! Does anyone have a lead on where I can buy these? I know I can just label mount the other types and solder in wires but I’d like to keep the amp original.

Any info or insight would be greatly appreciated. It is for an Orion HCCA 12,500DSPLX amp, def need a Hail Mary on this one lol 😅

X0
Yes.
Seriously.
😱

Get your drool bibs out.

Who here has seen one of these in the wild ?
Who here has ever seen the internals of one ?
Who here has ever heard one ?
As of this weekend, I have 🤓
And I got to compare to my X1.

My overall sonic findings are the same as was posted in the X1 vs X0.2 thread.
The X0 is just that little bit cleaner, more precise, better at everything than the X1.
Then there's the bass.
No contest.
The X0 wins by several Kilometers.
Cleaner, tighter, smoother, etc etc.

After doing a US to AU voltage conversion, I HAD to make sure it was working fine by playing music through it for a day.
But all great things must come to an end, and I had to hand it over to the lucky SOB owner.

Wayne.
The layout and attention to detail is, well, will you marry me 💒👰

Scored 4 pcs of 2SK79. I am thinking of a DIY pre-amp that can swing +/- 50v output in tribute to the XP-30. I am thinking of the DIY Sony VFET front-end.

By the way, the 2SK79 datasheet shows pins 1,2,3 as E-B-C. The gate of this SIT is pin 3. The datasheet is wrong.

Here are the musings. An n-channel SIT is a variant of an NPN transistor but it has a grid-shaped gate. When Vg > 0, you can see some normal NPN transistor behavior mixed with some SIT behavior. The curves become concave down like a normal BJT but with a very small Early Voltage. You see ~normal BJT curves but they are rotated counterclockwise ~45 degrees.

Enjoy the curves

Hello,

I am playing around with different old DAC chips for a while. Now I am amused with the performance of the TDA1540 chips (NOS mode, CS8412). I have never heard before so a natural and live like sound. The piano sounds almost like a real one.

However, I see something quite wired that wasn't seen in BB's, AD's and TDA1541. At the DAC output, I see some crosstalk from the LE input. When there is no SPDIF signal the LE has ca. 11,68kHZ so it is audible - constant hiss in speakers. With the SPDIF signal, I see 44.1kHZ or 48kHZ noise - fully synchronous with the LE input. I attach the data from the oscilloscope. The red probe was connected to the analog output. The yellow probe was connected to LE input to the DAC chip.

Do you know the reason why I see such LE crosstalk?

Best regards

I am selling a complete lot for passive filters, some components have never been used. As there are many values, I leave the photos with everything. the price is €295 + shipping

Anybody know what kind of bulb vintage phones used? Phone is dated 1990, looks like the ubiquitous rotary desktop phone but is pushbutton. Picture of bulb socket attached.

While repairing another Hafler DH-120, I decided to experiment with different outputs. I initially replaced the original outputs on one channel with Exicon T03 10N series mosfets.
They work well and operate very similar to the stock outputs (2sk134, 2sj49). The basic rating for the 10 series Exicon is 8A / 125W. Power clipping for each channel ended up nearly identical at 24.2V RMS or 73 watts. I had some EFC20 series (Double Die Version) and installed them in both channels, out of curiosity, reset the bias and re-measured the output.
Both channels clipped at 27.8V RMS or 95 watts. Distortion measured with REW was similar to the 10N series or stock outputs at about .009 THD.
The rating for the 20N series Exicons is 16A 250W. My rail voltages measured 54 v both channels. Close to the Hafler manual spec.

Why would the power increase by just changing outputs? I thought that would only be dependent on drive stage gain and rail voltages.

Measured with 8 ohm load at 1kHz.

To sum up... the 10N series Exicon outputs had an almost identical clipping point to the stock outputs, but there was an increase in the clipping output with the 20N double die outputs.

Just curious!

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https://gr-research.com/product/lgk-2-4-towers-pair/

Hello I have a 4channel Soundigital, that needs to be repaired...Im in Illinois

Hello friends,

I have a Pioneer DEH-P8000R from 1999 with the OEL display. Everything works perfectly except for the main display is very dim and can only be seen in the dark. I have gone in and adjusted the brightness all the way to max but it doesn’t help. Unfortunately replacement parts are no longer available.

I am wondering if replacing capacitors or other components on the board may help this issue? The service manual with schematics is available online and linked below if anyone would like to take a look.

Manual:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/694605/Pioneer-Deh-P8000r.html

Thank you very much!

Over the years I built a few amplifier and pre-amps, not pretty. I was starting to think of selling some home built components. Since they are heavy do you guys have any suggestions on how to post on the DIY audio Market place ?
I guess I would need to provide pictures, schematics and may be weight.
Do items limited to local pick up sell( San Diego, CA) ?
Do non-mainstream designs sell ?
For example, pre-amp is a single power mosfet running class A with no negative feedback, dual step attenuators, power amp is 100W into 4 ohms class A, no negative feedback, and no voltage gain, OTL vacuum tube amp each channel has 9 parallel 6AS7. Just starting to consider thinning the herd.
Any and all feedback on whether to actually thin the herd, and if so how to go about it?

P

Is adding say a few caps before a full-range driver a definite loss in the revered "purity" of full-range drivers which normally are left unfiltered?
Obviously, not having passive coimponents is technically always beneficial for preservation of signal, but let's say I use quality broadbands in a speaker with a separate bass enclosure w/ bass drivers crossed 1st order at about 200Hz and don't want to over-exert the broadbands unnecessarily below 200Hz, is much of the puristic quality of the broadband now lost?
Obviously this would depend on the quality of the crossover components used, I'm sure the best of components are nearly "invisible" but also expensive.
Let's say I use ClarityCap CSA range. Let's say the amplifier is revealing. A good quality broadband is used. Is it pointless to fret if filtering the broadband with a few such resonable quality caps could audibly detract from its natural peformance?

Looking for help with a Roland JC-40 main control board.

Looks like it's been a while since anyone asked this. What are some good sources of hookup wire these days? Don't need anything crazy just some 18awg or so. Thanks.

Looking for some suppliers inside the EU that sell components that I'm not able to buy in local stores.

I known that Mouser sends the components directly from the US, but I'm searching for EU based companies with an warehouse that would send the items solemnly from the EU

I was browsing Digikey (a Germany based company), but when in the shopping cart, they say that transit from the US might be delayed due to national holidays. So I wonder, are they a drop-shipping company?

I basically want to avoid customs, expensive shipping fees, and long transit waiting, and all the hustle of a regular import from the US

Can anyone give any insight about this matter?
Thanks in advance

let's look at the bright side 🙂 it is somehow funny.

(this is in the context of cable directionality)

A: "I always connect the cables by looking at the printing direction: source at the left side"
B: "but you do agree that the direction of the print can actually be random and based on the way some machines operate, right?"
A: "look pal, I try to experiment, not restrict myself to some narrow-minded theories"
B: "ok, but there's no actual experimenting going on"
A: "you engineers!"

fella wasn't able to see the substance of it, that being that taking whichever factor is at hand as absolute reference has nothing to do with experimentation. I mean, it's not even about the snake oil part of it. it's about the most basic logic.

IMO this best exemplifies the signature SY used to have: it is the "mystical" part of human mind operating.

sometimes I think I should just find another hobby so that I don't get to meet these types.

I'm looking for either a kit or PCB for a really good quality subwoofer amp, mono, around 150W to 300W. Another thread on this forum suggests the honey badger, but I couldn't find any links to it.

Rod Elliots ESP projects site includes options but I'm guessing the circuit is dated now and the components unobtainable (I don't yet feel comfortable choosing substitutes).
Also it seems odd getting PCBs shipped from Australia.

Any recommendations for UK

Yay a surprise project.

I am lucky enough to have a couple of Musical Fidelity F22 pre-amps that BOTH have the same issue today. The entire selector system doesn't work. Since this affects both in the same way it's probably come up before. I'm hoping can't find anything though so if this turns out to be the "fixit" post then great.

Already I know that, even in this kingdom of geeks, this is a bit niche 😀 but any and all input gratefully received.

Basic issue seems to be that the IR input is messing the selector system up - I can change source if, and only if, I completely mask the IR sensor.

Some more bits of info for Sherlock

1. I have seen this issue many years before (on one or the other), When LED lamps were first introduced, on particular type would mess it up change of bulb sorted that - literally removed all bulbs (lamps if you prefer) that I can think of to eliminate that factor.
2. The units seem to work in my lab (AKA kitchen) not my lounge?
3. Closed curtains to mitigate any stray IR from tree reflections or anything. It is an unusually bright day here in Manchester UK - it's not raining at least
4. Powered unit from the kitchen via an extension to see if that was a factor - it's not
5. last thought - problem is not related to the connected CD or amps, same issue when they are disconnected

On the unit that the problem first appeared on, I thought 'what-ho' and busted out the soldering iron. Swapping any electrolytics out on the remote board - seemed to work see #2 above 🙂 (handily also demonstrated a non functional remote but that's for another day)

Clearly this is a problem that needs a fix and I will update here as I make progress or not. I suspect the real question is "how to slug an IR sensor" I would estimate these are both 30 years old so it might just be an old kit issue. At which point, both having the same issue at the same time is entirely plausible

Barely use the remote so there is an easy and obvious solution but not happy with that

Andy

$155 shipped USA or best offer.
Both sound good.

(2) Panasonic SB-77 mid-range woofers - EAS-12PM47SA JAPAN - PAIR SB77 midrange

Fostex FE103A 4" Alnico Full Range - Foster 70th Anniversary Limited Edition - Pair

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...foster-70th-anniversary-limited-edition-pair/

Hi

Anyone want one. Never got around to doing Vinnie Rossi mods

Perfect working order.

I can't believe how good it sounds as is.

I guess it's both the driver and the box design, but how much influence does each one of the two have?
Are there some guidelines concerning which drivers to buy and how to design the enclosure for maximizing the SPLs?

The TPL8033 is a 20-V 200-mA high-performance lowdropout linear regulator with 1-μVRMS ultra-low noise
and 110-dB ultra-high PSRR. The TPL8033 supports
adjustable output from 1.2 V to 15 V with a single resistor
and is stable with 4.7 μF to 100 μF.
The TPL8033 implements a precision current reference
and a high-performance voltage buffer. With an external
capacitor connecting to the current reference, the output
voltage noise can be further reduced.
The TPL8033 features adjustable output current limit
with a single external resistor and adjustable powergood threshold with an external resistors divider. The
TPL8033 also integrates over-current protection and overtemperature protection to enhance system reliability.
The TPL8033 provides thermal-enhanced 10-pin DFN3X3
and EMSOP packages with guaranteed operating
temperature ranging from –40°C to +125°C.
• Low-Noise Power Supplies
• Analog Supply: PLL, VCO, Mixer, LNA, ADC
• Low-Noise Instrumentation
• ATE Test Equipment
http://file.3peakic.com.cn:8080/product/Datasheet_TPL8033.pdf
Who is already familiar? How was it?

Does anyone know what the impact of baffle shape is for an H-frame or U-frame baffle. I’ve attached an example (these are side views). I’m asserting that the total area created by the baffle sides is consistent regardless of shape. The example is an H-frame (half for a U). The measures would be 7 & 7 in an un-modified H-frame.

Good morning everyone,

I would like to replace my cheap cable with something that increases the depth in the bass range.

I didn't believe that cables could make a difference of a certain kind, but after several demonstrations I had to change my mind.

I am currently considering these cables:

BLACK AL litz 400 POWER CABLE IN PURE COPPER 5 mmq 150cm SUPER CONNECTORS
https://www.ebay.it/itm/134381539839

Oyaide Tunami GPX, Pcocc-a copper network cable 1.5 m
https://www.ebay.it/itm/175771853276

TFA - 3 Ft./90cm Mains cable with Furutech Schuko E11 + Fi-11 Cu
https://www.ebay.it/itm/155377361616

in your opinion which of these 3 cables should sound better and maybe even gain me something in terms of depth in the bass range ?

thanks everyone !

I just bought myself a beautiful Pioneer SA-510 amp, from the famous blue line series. Besides the easy things to be fixed like cracking pots, it is in good shape.
Only one thing needs to be repaired, the power switch. Its lever is broken.

Questions

1. Who knows where I can find this part for replacement?
2. Visually, the power switch looks the same, as other switches on the front panel (subsonic, loudness, tape) or switches on other Pioneer equipment from the same series (e.g. SA-710). Can these switches also be used for replacement of the power switch?

I know your out there. so please let me know
thanks Rick

Wolfram Arctic Wolf 9000.1D

Looking to find out exactly what these ICs are on the output card, meltdown at first boot up I guess, melted some of the 2814s out on PS side even lol, taking out power supply and Output FETs along with some buffers on each end and output card, just going to replace them all 7 main ICs on the output card, soon as I find out what they are 😅

Greetings to all, recently i finished a project that was on my mind for a long time: A adjustable high voltage bench PSU PCB.

0-300V power supplies are few and far between. So i straight up cobbled something together. Based in part on an existing supply.

If you ask me why i did not use any preregulator circuits or switchers in this one: the answer is i wanted minimum noise.

The supply could be made to operate up to 400V but i'd have to re-spin the board for greater clearance and more mosfets.

If there is much interest, i can see if i can make something available.

Hello!

Anyone has any experience with the Liquid Instruments Moku:Go?

Hi , I sell dac ECdesigns Power dac -R with modified capacitors and power supply with a much higher result than the factory version. Ready to run with which of all the ones I've tried for me is the best possible transport, and I've tried others much more expensive.

Price 1.100€ plus Shipping Only European Union.

ECdesings remote
Rapsberry Pi 4 B 8gb
Ian Canada IAN CANADA PUREPI Ultracapacitor / Batteries Dual Power Supply Module for Raspberry Pi 5V/3.3V
Ian Canada SHIELD PI PRO
Ian Canada Transport Pi Digi with Crystek 957 clocks
Toslink cable:
ATAUDIO Hifi
Ru Connected
Optilink 5

Its sound is wonderful, completely analog and very detailed, you are for hours nailed to the chasm without being able to get up, but I have a dac with Philips tda1541A double crown, and I could not say which of the two sounds better because the sound is practically identical, it does not make sense for me to have two dacs that sound equally good.

Thanks

I have a faulty Allen & Heath ZEDi-10 Mixer.
I'm looking for a new Mixer to replace the faulty A&H Mixer.
Can someone send me some information from where i might be able to find an equivalent mixer, preferably in Europe?

Wanted to do this passively, DIY. Is it even possible? If yes, do i need resistors of some kind, somewhere?

Thanks.

Hi Guys!

I am preparing a build of my next set of speakers.
I already purchased a set of Beyma TPL-150H, but miss the mid-bass driver.

The driver is supposed to fill the gap between my SB Acoustic subwoofers, crossed at 100 Hz, and the TPL’s.
Not sure, where to cross over the TPL’s, but I assume in the range of 1200-1600 Hz?
It is not possible to cross the subs higher than 100 Hz; they are slot loaded, and sounds “funny”, when crossed higher.

The system will be working as active, driven by 3 sets of Lyngdorf TDAI 2200.

I have been looking thoroughly through the data sheets of majority of drivers available, and tried to find inspiration in other builts, but perhaps some of you have real-life experience.
I favour professional drivers with high BL and low moving mass.

Thanks in advance, and greeting from Denmark!

Crown D-75A Scratching my head on Bridged Mono Mode.

I purchased two Crown D- 75A Amplifiers to use in Bridged mono mode. 1st I tested them in Dual mode and all Good. Then I tested them in Mono Bridged mode. If I hook the speaker up as per the manual figure 2-7 ( speaker connected to both the positive terminals) I get a low output and the amp really heats up. NO GOOD ! Forgot to mention , inside there is a jumper that must be placed in Mono or Dual depending how you are hooking up.
If I hook up on just on the speaker channel 1 terminals + and - , I measure the output at 51 watts.
This sounds ok but I am suppose to have 110 watts as per the specs. I have been ripping my hair out trying to figure this out and I don't have much. Anyone with some Ideas? It says Clearly in the manual not to use the negative terminals in bridged mono mode.
I'm sure im missing something, Just have no idea what.
Cheers

Hello,
Can someone help me with EPQ900 repair? Schematic needed, or at least, R185 value:

Thanks.

Interested in one, or possibly three in working condition. Can pay up to 150$ each. PayPal is prefered.

Hi
I have a problem, any help appreciated!

Im bit of a newbie when it comes to tubes, and i bought wavac md-300b amplifier.
It works perfectly with 6y6 tubes, but:

-I was told that i could try 6Y6G tubes as a substitute for 6Y6, but when i try them there is loud popping noises from both channels (even if volume is zero)
and finally a loud hum from both speakers.


So was i given bad information, or is the tube faulty?


Link to video:
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Aloha, someone had schematic to convert Soundstream D100ll into Soundstream Class A50? If Zener_Diode is still around if i can get him to give me a copy or anyone else has one? Thanks

I've just taken a chance on one of these for my office system and all I can say is wow! It's already brought me £90 worth of joy and I've only had it for a week.

All the manual functions work well and I've seen a few bit of general tech spec info online and instructions to get the auto functions going again but there isn't much other info about and I have many questions!!

In no particular order....

1) the lifting up and down of the tone arm - it sort of but doesn't really work. I've tried to manually readjust and it's ok briefly but then it sags even if the silver screw is tightened. How can I solve this? Any other decks with a similar mechanism with an online refurb vid?

2) What are the 'floating' and ' auto in adjust' all about? I've not seen those on other decks.

3) does anyone have a service manual?

Thanks as ever to this awesome community.

Scrolling through my Tidal track library I noticed that 20-30% (thousands!) of title headings have gone to a light gray shaded print (see yellow checks in attachment)meaning ‘the record label no longer allows streaming of this track’ This has happened before occasionally, but not on this level, the same track/same album is still available if you search it again and save it back to the playlist. Now this was a minor inconvenience but now is a major inconvenience and will take many hours to rectify. There seems to be no contact email for tidal on my home page and its seems to me if the tracks are still going to be available but just expired due to contract negotiations Tidal should automatically update the songs affected !?

Anyone know of a workaround to keep this from happening in the future, setting maybe overlooked? Would downloading the playlist solve it (you can download as long as your subscription stays current) ?

This is a major pita!

thanks
Bob

I get a better indication when lineout specs are in voltage figures.

My preamp preouts are 75 ohms, a crossover I'm interested in has output preout power of 100 ohms.

What does this equate to in voltage at the outputs?

Since I'm using pa amps for my subs, my domestic preamp is starving the inputs of power. I have to max the gains on the amps to operate the subs. But its not enough for me.

Im leaving a bunch of spl's on the table this way.

So I thought defeating the onboard crossover and putting a dbx 223xs for a stand in would remedy two things.

But is a 25 ohm step up significant enough to light the subs up and push them properly?

Input requirements for the pa amp are selectable, either 1.4 Vrms and .775Vrms.

BTW I had set it on both to test. There is no difference between them in terms of main volume increases/decreases. Wich is baffling to me. The pa amp in question Crown xls 1002.

My main question about the 25 ohm increase with the dbx is the million dollar question. If it makes my subs work and actually push some air Ill pull the trigger.

The inline boosters I tried failed. This seems like one area where quality parts are not offered. Unless Im over looking something.

This is a great package deal for three different Shiit pieces. All three pieces are in excellent cosmetic and perfect working condition. They come complete with original wall wart/power supplies. I can sell these only a package. I am the original owner. I no longer have the original shipping boxes but they will be securely packaged.

1. Original Schiit Modi Multibit DAC. This unit is about 6 years old with the upgrade chip that had the updated instruction set. Comes with Instruction booklet.

2. Loki Mini + 5 band equalizer. Less than a year old. No instruction booklet.

3. Magni 2 headphone amp. About 5 years old with instruction booklet.

Free shipping in the USA only. $175 for all 3 pieces. PayPal only.

Hi guys, as per the title I'm looking for some opinions on box construction methods. I recently created a prototype box for my new active monitor build using B&C 8NDL51, SB26ADC in 8" Augerpro Waveguide and Hypex FA122 in sealed box with F3 around 80hz as per THX spec.

So far I'm very happy with the results, although the unbraced MDF test box does seem to emit a far amount of sound, especially the rear of the box. For the final version of the speaker, I would like to use Baltic Birch instead of MDF, as I absolutely hate working with MDF. I have been designing a few different box construction examples in Sketcup and also doing some reading on here. It seems I can't find an answer about this subject.

I have a few possible construction methods, I'd love some input about which one you would choose and why. Attached is a side picture of the box design. The compartment at the rear is for the Hypex amplifier, meaning there will be around a 50mm gap between the woofer rear wall and the actual rear wall of the cab. All of the options will be with the box stuffed with some type of acoustic wadding material.

Option 1) 18mm BB (Baltic Birch) box with 30mm front baffle. 18mm center brace glued directly to the sides, top and bottom of the box and an extra 18mm brace between the front baffle and the vertical brace.

Option 2) 24mm BB box with 30mm front baffle. 24mm center brace glued directly to the sides, top and bottom of the box and an extra 24mm brace between the front baffle and the vertical brace.

Option 3) 18mm BB box with 30mm front baffle. 18mm center brace but 1mm short to the sides and to the top and bottom to allow a loose fit and a layer of flexible adhesive glue around the brace to the box. ie CLD brace.

Option 4) 24mm BB box with 30mm front baffle. 24mm center brace but 1mm short to the sides and to the top and bottom to allow a loose fit and a layer of flexible adhesive glue around the brace to the box. ie CLD brace.

Option 5) 18mm BB box all around. 12mm MDF inner box with a layer of flexible adhesive and or rubber matting. CLD box.

So far, option 3 seems the most sensible and the most straightforward form of CLD.

What do you guys think? As I mentioned, most of the sound leakage seems to be from the rear of the test box, however, the test box doesn't have the separation of the amp compartment. I'm thinking that in the final design, even without CLD, the rear of the box is separated from the rear wall of the driver box, and so should mean that there would be very little leakage to the rear regardless, its wether CLD will benefit the sides of the box, whether a CLD brace would be useful or whether the normal stiff brace and glue method would be sufficient.

I'm in this hobby for over 40 years and I am not easily imressed but this Ripol (dipole variant) is worth sharing with the comunity.
If you are a teen that needs PA level bass don't read any further, but if you want true to the signal authentic deep reaching bass this is for you.
I was searching really hard to find a 12" Speaker for about $30 with good enough specs to be used in a dipole bass speaker.
low and behold I found one that really does all I need it to do.
+-6mm cone travel with a high qts of about 0.6 and 33hz resonace.
Jensen JWS 300 CP 4110hf (Germany). AfaIk that ceap $20 Blaupunkt 12" raw speaker at Walmart is almost identical in specs.
I build 4 Ripol speakers with it and they perform excellent.
It is by far the best bass I had in my home yet. If I ever put up my horn system again it will only be paired with these dipoles. When my better half saw the four 12" speakers she thought oh please not another monster speaker in our tiny living room. After they where finished she actually likes them. At the moment I run them paired with my abused Karlsonators and they integrate perfectly.
The surface is sand poured on pva glue.

Greets, Klaus

A S/PDIF switch can be useful when we have more digital audio sources than the number of inputs available on a DAC.

I wanted to do this a long while ago and finally managed to get at it recently.

This little project makes use of the internal 8-channel selector offered by WM8805 S/PDIF receiver, and was designed to select one out of up to 8 S/PDIF feeds under the monitor and control of an Arduino Nano micro controller board.

Unlike a usual switch-and-buffer type of device, WM8805 re-clocks its on-chip S/PDIF transmitter and does not pass the incoming jitter on to the output, therefore upkeeps the S/PDIF signal quality in terms of jitter reduction/rejection. That is why so my choice was.

Whazon’s operation is simple, it keeps polling the 8 inputs in turn and stops at the first one its PLL manages to lock up to. A duplicated, de-jittered S/PDIF signal is then sent out with the S/PDIF transmitter, available in coaxial and optical form.

Whatzon receives remote control via an inexpensive Bluetooth-serial I/O tranceiver, model HC-05, paired with a smart phone running a Bluetooth terminal app.

The channel polling described above can be enabled/disabled with the phone. Forced channel change to desired channel, and next higher channel are also easily implemented.

An I2S copy of the selected input signal is also sent out at WM8805’s bidirectional digital audio interface for future project expansion. It is however not being put to use at present, except that a buffered copy of the LRCK is sent to the Arduino for exact sample rate detection (that WM8805 is not fully capable of).

The PCB is a compact 10cm * 10cm double sided design, with a break-away optical I/O section. Whazon accepts 4 coaxial (BNC) and 4 optical inputs with current PCB design. It is possible to replace the optical input receivers in the current breakaway design with BNC connectors to make all channels BNC input. The coupling and termination circuit layout around the WM8805 works with both types for that 4 channels.

Whazon is powered by a 5Vdc cell phone charger through a micro USB port that serves as a programming port for the Arduino as well when connected to a PC that runs Arduino development system.

Successful so far: input channel polling, PLL locking, exact sample rate detection -- tested good with 44.1, 48, 88.2, and 96KHz signals, haven't tested 32KHz, 176.4KHz, and 192KHz yet as I don't have such sources.

Being worked on: an OLED screen display that shows current input channel and sample rate --- Done.

In the plan: A button push or a remote that forces switching to the next input and starting the polling/channel rotation --- Remote done.

The PCB layout screen shot is of top side of Rev.2 design to be sent to a PCB house soon.

There is a youtube video in post #5 below that shows this project in action.

Hello, I want to get better tweeters for my krk 8 2gen.
I was looking for mountable ones that I can drill a hole on top and rewire .
Any suggestions?
I found these :
PIONEER TS-A300TW 20mm 450 Watt Component Tweeter https://a.co/d/96V1you
The tweeters I have now are working but with age I think they just don't sound so clean , I did clean up the amplifier board and replaced caps with low ESR nichicon.
And I don't feel like paying KRK $40 for each twwter and getting the same crap, in don't really care about astetics too much.

Thank you

The following are the only ones with affordable shipping to my country. They vary from being dirt cheap to relatively expensive:

50mm 24Ohm Headphone Speaker Unit Pure Copper DIY Audiophile Loudspeakers driver for Denon AH D9200|Earphone Accessories| - AliExpress

Excellent Sound New 50mm 32 Ohm Iron Cover Speaker Unit With Upgrade Diaphragm Audiophile Loudspeakers Driver For Diy Headphone - Protective Sleeve - AliExpress

40mm Headphone Speaker Driver 32ohm | 40mm Speaker Replacement | Headphone Parts 40mm - Protective Sleeve - Aliexpress

Excellent Hifi Sound New 40mm Speaker Unit For Diy Headphone Amazing Speaker Clear Sound Balance Sound - Earphone Accessories - AliExpress

40mm Carbon Paper Sound Driver Speakers Unit For Diy Headphones 10hz-80khz Superior Sound Quality Speaker Engineered By Onkyo - Earphone Accessories - AliExpress

Original Replacement 52mm Diy Speaker Unit For Akg N90 N90q Headphones - Earphone Accessories - AliExpress

https://www.daraz.lk/products/headp...0e.searchlist.list.46.5bc424b7DQ9D3S&search=1

I appreciate any and all help. Thank you!

I am already regretting a recent purchase of a Counterpoint SA20. All the FETs are blown and probably more based on the old posts I've been reading. That said, I would like to get it going and need referrals to older posts and/or a troubleshooting order of march and plenty of recommendations on what to look out for!

I'm familiar and have restored a number of Haflers and have seen a couple of posts suggesting that lateral FETS make good replacements (with bias changes?) for the obsolete RFM10N15 & IR9241. I've seen strong pro & con posts--any winners? Other FETs mentioned: IRFP240 / 9240, IRF243/9241, 2SJ56/2SK176 and possibly others.

Also, claims of fanatical matching required, as adding Source resistors is considered a heresy that ruins the quality of the sound. Sorry if this opens old wounds, but I'd really like to restore this amp and stay as true as practical to the original design. Yes, I'm waffling, but need to understand my options / time required / cost.

Thanks in advance to those Counterpoint experts out there that are willing to coach a Counterpoint newbie through his first repair!
Regards,
Ivan

I'm looking to add subwoofers (2) to my existing, somewhat dated, system. (BEL 2002, Spectral DMC-10, Daybreak 3-way pair) mid to late 80's era stuff.
the Daybreaks house Audax drivers with "poly" cones (1" tweeter, 6" mid, 8" woofer) I haven't settled on whether the crossovers will be passive or active.

the Peerless drivers I'm looking at are NOS 12" 831857 produced in Denmark. I realize this means they're about 15 years old or so and reflect the technology
of the era. (prices are comparable to the Dayton Audio 12" reference units... maybe 10 -15% less) the boxes they'll live in are 4 cubic feet in size.

if anyone here could compare / contrast vintage Peerless with similar but more current offerings I'd be grateful.

TIA
jerry

DIP sockets are popular for allowing convenient experimentation with different opamps. However, I am wondering if there is any objective loss as opposed a soldered PDIP opamp? It would seem likely that solder joints would be objectively superior to the friction joints into the sockets... and thus have a potential difference in performance or SQ. Has anyone tested this?

Hi Everyone,

Any ideas about how to convert optical SPDIF to the AD1866 interface format?

I was thinking about using a SPDIF to I2S converter, similar to this and then converting the signal to the AD1866 format, in this case only the latch signals need to be modified (LL and LR). Do you know if any board with this functionality is currently available for purchase in europe?

To produce the LL and LR signals I have designed a circuit using the 74 series logic family, it seems to work on simulation, but I don't have a clue if it actually works in practice, also, this circuit is a bit complex and requires a lot of ICs. Only faster digital devices 74FXX or 74SXX seem to be quick enough for sample rates of 88.2 kHz and over, 74HCXX and 74LSXX, only work for 48 kHz or less. I also have an Arduino Due board, do you know if it can be used for the format conversion? Is there any simple way to convert optical SPDIF or I2S to the AD1866 format, using only one or two ICs?

I have attached a few pictures of the block diagram, interface conversion logic circuit, timing diagrams and a TINA SPICE simulation file.

3 channel balanced F5 amplifiers (6 channels total) - minus power supplies. F5 boards were purchased from diyaudio and I used Toshiba mosfets. Open to offers - thanks.

Hi. Someone know what cabinet is the one in photo and maybe share with me the plan so i can build one? Thank you in advance.

I'm looking for data on a Plitron 6122-V2-00 300 VA toriodal medical isolation transformer #200607.

Hi, I need help building an F1. I followed all the instructions, PCB (clone), paired Vishay mosfets, only instead of ztx 550 I put bc 327. The problem is that I cannot adjust the offset with P1 nor with P2 (100 kOhm-2M). The difference is about 5V!!? Only when I connect 10-20 Ohms to P2, the offset is good, but the heating is excessive. It confuses me even more that the situation on both channels is identical. Maybe someone has a solution?

I am considering to sell my LX521 speakers, due to room they are placed in is too small for these. These are truly superb speakers, they`re clarity and level of details are astonishing. They are designed as full-range dipole, for flat on-axis and off-axis response in the horizontal plane and frontal hemisphere. The speakers need breathing room of at least 1 m to the nearest large reflecting surfaces and a room with a minimum floor size of 25 sqm.

All seas speakers, with special black coned edition of woofers. All panels are made in CNC machined HDF material, all cabling is also hidden within the material as seen on the pictures 🙂

Please be aware that these speakers are located in norway, they can be shipped on a pallet to anywhere, but they are heavy and this will probably cost in the area of 500-1500USD depending on location.

I am asking 3200USD for these speakers, power amps and DSP is not included.

Right now there are cheap USB HDMI capture devices being sold on AliExpress, ebay, amazon and the likes. They cost less than $10/€10. These dongles expose a standard UVC webcam and a USB audio class soundcard to the system. The video is MJPEG encoded and the audio is lossless stereo 16bit 48kHz PCM.

For anyone running a crossover/convolver/other DSP on a Raspberry Pi this provides an easy method to get sound into your DSP computer. As it's just plain HDMI this works to add DSP processing to Chromecast devices, Apple TV, FireTV sticks and the likes and also regular computers independent of operating systems.

To make stereo capture work with Linux you need a very recent kernel that contains an ALSA configuration quirk. Without this the device is detected as a 16 bit 96000 mono capture device. The quirk has been added to the 5.8 kernel and if I understand correctly will also be backported to LTS kernels.

Even with the quirk in place the left and right channels are swapped but this can easily be dealt with in software - either remapping while grabbing with ffmpeg or system wide with pulseaudio remap-sink for example.

With the RC 6 of kernel 5.8 the audio capture device is detected correctly:


The video part works with any recent kernel and shows up like this:


While capturing is limited to 1080p30 with MJPEG compression (and 5fps lossless), the HDMI input supposedly accepts any signal up to 4k60 12bit. I have not tested this yet.

There is another version that has both an HDMI input and an output so the capture device can be inserted between a playback device and the TV. I ordered one of those to try next as that would allow me to extract audio from the HDMI link for DSP processing while leaving the video signal as it is.

Looking for a pair of PCM63 dac chips. Standard, J,K,Y, any would do just to try out a DIY all in one headphone project.
I'll cover shipping from anywhere.

Thank you.

SOLD!!!!!!


a pair of t25s-6.
Used 30h in testing against other tweeters with music, no extremely loud volumes i am sensitive to sibilance and too loud sound..
not soldered but connected with clips to test so clean connectors.
Condition is NEW.

https://hificompass.com/en/reviews/bliesma-t25a-6-t25b-6-t25d-6-t25s-6

Asking 150e for a pair.
New pair costs 300e+ with many sellers.
Will post images tomorrow as i get home, but condition is new..

I recently built a passive preamp for myself until the integrated amp that I bought came in. As usual, it took a lot more work than I intended to complete, but you know, was worth it. I am offering this unit at US Audio Mart for $450. It would be easier for you to read the ad that I placed than to type it all here. I have some photos that will give an idea of the quality of this unit. I need to add that the last photo shows the actual knob that comes with the unit. It looks best and performs perfectly. I always like discussing things like this so feel free to ask questions!
Note: Despite photos showing marks, these do not exist. Seriously, there is not the tiniest mark anywhere.

Hi,

Pics and schematic of the line stage section at
VNAV • View topic - KSL-M77 Preamplifier by KONDO, Audio Note Japan.

If I understand the schematic, and assuming that the schematic is correct, the first tube runs at 140Vp-k at ~500uA per section and about the same for the DC coupled CF. Pd ~0.07W - tubes would last a long time!

Looks kind of standard and un-inspiring, yet so highly reviewed even at 30k or so (with phono).

In house caps and resistors, a 6X4 in parallel with SS diodes, some electro B supply caps. I might have to build this thing.. can it be THAT easy?


Shane

Does anyone have experience of using these drivers in OB or sealed enclosures for low mid use? I have a pair that I would like to try in my 4 way active system. I know they are generally used in horns, and I have heard them sounding very good indeed, but I don't have the space. I'm looking for a bit more attack on transients than I currently get with OB mounted Cabasse 30Ds, which go very low indeed in the right sealed or ported box, and are a bit wasted in this system. Efficiency is not an issue as there is plenty of amplifier power available, and it won't be used below about 170 hz. From research I've done so far it looks like it might be hard making a sealed enclosure small enough, and I can always just try a small OB or open back, but I'd be interested to hear any real experiences.

I’ve been looking for a cost effective stereo combo amp for my new keyboard and I’ve not really found anything that’s suitable, size, price, features, so I was wondering about maybe making my own. I’d use this for practicing, jams and maybe small gigs.

I’ve seen the visaton BG20 drivers, and I think a pair of these would be sufficient for what I need, but I’m struggling to find suitable components for the amp side.

I’ve seen a few of these type amp boards on eBay eBay

suggesting they can deliver 2x150w which would be more than enough, however I have no idea what sort of power supply I would need to power one of these boards, or even if one of these boards would actually be powerful enough (as they look pretty unsubstantial)

What suggestions are there for either some form of plate amp or amp board and psu to make a little combo amp capable of comfortably hitting 60w.

Help! I’ve foolishly blown my Tannoy Stratford speakers. Looking for replacment drive units and crossovers. Pref UK. All advice welcome.

I want to use as lower device a 2SK170BL to set the CCS range till 20mA but can't reach the 20mA, it's due to the fact that I'm using BL grade with Idss between 6-8mA and I have to use a higher Idss?

Attached pic, I use for upper device IXTP01N100D.

I have just purchased a pair of modern legendary active monitors JBL LSR305. They were on sale at thomann.de obviously because a MkII model has been released recently.

This little gem has been reviewed eg. here JBL LSR305 Studio Monitors

I ran some measurements and listened to a single speaker today. Measurements line up with noaudiophile well. Sound is very impressive but there is a strong coloration making them sound boxy, also knucle test result is poor. I put the mic almost in contact with panel and every measurement showed strong distortion around 240Hz. It is obviously a 1/1 wall resonance based on height of the cabinet. --> http://semimac.org/wp-content/uploa...-Vibration-Analysis-Loudspeaker-Enclosure.pdf

Internal cross-bracing should kill that well, I'll try that during next days and report my findings!

Hi all,

I have the Adelphos MTM kit and am in the process of building the cabinet.
These are fairly large stand-mount speakers at around 22" cabinet height.
The tweeter is center height, so I think something like 17" stands would be needed.
I'm slightly concerned about the stability and aesthetics of placing these on stands.

I'd appreciate input on whether any of these are preferred options:
1) Build a full size cabinet (approx. 40" height). The top 22" would be enclosed (as originally designed) with the bottom 18" open.
2) Build the bottom half as a bass module. Jeff Bagby published one of these but it assumes the non-MTM version and is 25" height, so I need a different option.

Thanks

Hi there,
I'm starting this thread because I want to know more about Class D amplification, and what other people think.
CHEERS 🙂

Just finished a pair of Klipsch Belles, using one inch euro birch ply, with American Walnut veneer. Seriously heavy.

Not adding the "v" shaped grills....and leaving the thick ply edges exposed.

I've added a larger access panel, which sits snugly within the 60mm tall plinth.

Crites 15-inch woofer is being used.

My mate has already built the Bill Woods 300Hz conical horn, with the metal throat assembly. (I will be making a new pair of horns in matching walnut ply.)

Fostex T900A tweeter will also be added.

Xover is interesting, using first-order, transformer, approx 500Hz to start with.

A fun project.

as above.

I've searched the net but came up empty.

Digikey has a calculator to select the required resistor value for the selected time or resistance (https://www.digikey.com.au/en/resou...version-calculator-capacitor-safety-discharge)

Thanks

EDIT: permanently soldered to the caps in the power supply