Is adding say a few caps before a full-range driver a definite loss in the revered "purity" of full-range drivers which normally are left unfiltered?
Obviously, not having passive coimponents is technically always beneficial for preservation of signal, but let's say I use quality broadbands in a speaker with a separate bass enclosure w/ bass drivers crossed 1st order at about 200Hz and don't want to over-exert the broadbands unnecessarily below 200Hz, is much of the puristic quality of the broadband now lost?
Obviously this would depend on the quality of the crossover components used, I'm sure the best of components are nearly "invisible" but also expensive.
Let's say I use ClarityCap CSA range. Let's say the amplifier is revealing. A good quality broadband is used. Is it pointless to fret if filtering the broadband with a few such resonable quality caps could audibly detract from its natural peformance?

Looking for help with a Roland JC-40 main control board.

Looks like it's been a while since anyone asked this. What are some good sources of hookup wire these days? Don't need anything crazy just some 18awg or so. Thanks.

Looking for some suppliers inside the EU that sell components that I'm not able to buy in local stores.

I known that Mouser sends the components directly from the US, but I'm searching for EU based companies with an warehouse that would send the items solemnly from the EU

I was browsing Digikey (a Germany based company), but when in the shopping cart, they say that transit from the US might be delayed due to national holidays. So I wonder, are they a drop-shipping company?

I basically want to avoid customs, expensive shipping fees, and long transit waiting, and all the hustle of a regular import from the US

Can anyone give any insight about this matter?
Thanks in advance

let's look at the bright side 🙂 it is somehow funny.

(this is in the context of cable directionality)

A: "I always connect the cables by looking at the printing direction: source at the left side"
B: "but you do agree that the direction of the print can actually be random and based on the way some machines operate, right?"
A: "look pal, I try to experiment, not restrict myself to some narrow-minded theories"
B: "ok, but there's no actual experimenting going on"
A: "you engineers!"

fella wasn't able to see the substance of it, that being that taking whichever factor is at hand as absolute reference has nothing to do with experimentation. I mean, it's not even about the snake oil part of it. it's about the most basic logic.

IMO this best exemplifies the signature SY used to have: it is the "mystical" part of human mind operating.

sometimes I think I should just find another hobby so that I don't get to meet these types.

I'm looking for either a kit or PCB for a really good quality subwoofer amp, mono, around 150W to 300W. Another thread on this forum suggests the honey badger, but I couldn't find any links to it.

Rod Elliots ESP projects site includes options but I'm guessing the circuit is dated now and the components unobtainable (I don't yet feel comfortable choosing substitutes).
Also it seems odd getting PCBs shipped from Australia.

Any recommendations for UK

Yay a surprise project.

I am lucky enough to have a couple of Musical Fidelity F22 pre-amps that BOTH have the same issue today. The entire selector system doesn't work. Since this affects both in the same way it's probably come up before. I'm hoping can't find anything though so if this turns out to be the "fixit" post then great.

Already I know that, even in this kingdom of geeks, this is a bit niche 😀 but any and all input gratefully received.

Basic issue seems to be that the IR input is messing the selector system up - I can change source if, and only if, I completely mask the IR sensor.

Some more bits of info for Sherlock

1. I have seen this issue many years before (on one or the other), When LED lamps were first introduced, on particular type would mess it up change of bulb sorted that - literally removed all bulbs (lamps if you prefer) that I can think of to eliminate that factor.
2. The units seem to work in my lab (AKA kitchen) not my lounge?
3. Closed curtains to mitigate any stray IR from tree reflections or anything. It is an unusually bright day here in Manchester UK - it's not raining at least
4. Powered unit from the kitchen via an extension to see if that was a factor - it's not
5. last thought - problem is not related to the connected CD or amps, same issue when they are disconnected

On the unit that the problem first appeared on, I thought 'what-ho' and busted out the soldering iron. Swapping any electrolytics out on the remote board - seemed to work see #2 above 🙂 (handily also demonstrated a non functional remote but that's for another day)

Clearly this is a problem that needs a fix and I will update here as I make progress or not. I suspect the real question is "how to slug an IR sensor" I would estimate these are both 30 years old so it might just be an old kit issue. At which point, both having the same issue at the same time is entirely plausible

Barely use the remote so there is an easy and obvious solution but not happy with that

Andy

$155 shipped USA or best offer.
Both sound good.

(2) Panasonic SB-77 mid-range woofers - EAS-12PM47SA JAPAN - PAIR SB77 midrange

Fostex FE103A 4" Alnico Full Range - Foster 70th Anniversary Limited Edition - Pair

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...foster-70th-anniversary-limited-edition-pair/

Hi

Anyone want one. Never got around to doing Vinnie Rossi mods

Perfect working order.

I can't believe how good it sounds as is.

I guess it's both the driver and the box design, but how much influence does each one of the two have?
Are there some guidelines concerning which drivers to buy and how to design the enclosure for maximizing the SPLs?

The TPL8033 is a 20-V 200-mA high-performance lowdropout linear regulator with 1-μVRMS ultra-low noise
and 110-dB ultra-high PSRR. The TPL8033 supports
adjustable output from 1.2 V to 15 V with a single resistor
and is stable with 4.7 μF to 100 μF.
The TPL8033 implements a precision current reference
and a high-performance voltage buffer. With an external
capacitor connecting to the current reference, the output
voltage noise can be further reduced.
The TPL8033 features adjustable output current limit
with a single external resistor and adjustable powergood threshold with an external resistors divider. The
TPL8033 also integrates over-current protection and overtemperature protection to enhance system reliability.
The TPL8033 provides thermal-enhanced 10-pin DFN3X3
and EMSOP packages with guaranteed operating
temperature ranging from –40°C to +125°C.
• Low-Noise Power Supplies
• Analog Supply: PLL, VCO, Mixer, LNA, ADC
• Low-Noise Instrumentation
• ATE Test Equipment
http://file.3peakic.com.cn:8080/product/Datasheet_TPL8033.pdf
Who is already familiar? How was it?

Does anyone know what the impact of baffle shape is for an H-frame or U-frame baffle. I’ve attached an example (these are side views). I’m asserting that the total area created by the baffle sides is consistent regardless of shape. The example is an H-frame (half for a U). The measures would be 7 & 7 in an un-modified H-frame.

Good morning everyone,

I would like to replace my cheap cable with something that increases the depth in the bass range.

I didn't believe that cables could make a difference of a certain kind, but after several demonstrations I had to change my mind.

I am currently considering these cables:

BLACK AL litz 400 POWER CABLE IN PURE COPPER 5 mmq 150cm SUPER CONNECTORS
https://www.ebay.it/itm/134381539839

Oyaide Tunami GPX, Pcocc-a copper network cable 1.5 m
https://www.ebay.it/itm/175771853276

TFA - 3 Ft./90cm Mains cable with Furutech Schuko E11 + Fi-11 Cu
https://www.ebay.it/itm/155377361616

in your opinion which of these 3 cables should sound better and maybe even gain me something in terms of depth in the bass range ?

thanks everyone !

I just bought myself a beautiful Pioneer SA-510 amp, from the famous blue line series. Besides the easy things to be fixed like cracking pots, it is in good shape.
Only one thing needs to be repaired, the power switch. Its lever is broken.

Questions

1. Who knows where I can find this part for replacement?
2. Visually, the power switch looks the same, as other switches on the front panel (subsonic, loudness, tape) or switches on other Pioneer equipment from the same series (e.g. SA-710). Can these switches also be used for replacement of the power switch?

I know your out there. so please let me know
thanks Rick

Wolfram Arctic Wolf 9000.1D

Looking to find out exactly what these ICs are on the output card, meltdown at first boot up I guess, melted some of the 2814s out on PS side even lol, taking out power supply and Output FETs along with some buffers on each end and output card, just going to replace them all 7 main ICs on the output card, soon as I find out what they are 😅

Greetings to all, recently i finished a project that was on my mind for a long time: A adjustable high voltage bench PSU PCB.

0-300V power supplies are few and far between. So i straight up cobbled something together. Based in part on an existing supply.

If you ask me why i did not use any preregulator circuits or switchers in this one: the answer is i wanted minimum noise.

The supply could be made to operate up to 400V but i'd have to re-spin the board for greater clearance and more mosfets.

If there is much interest, i can see if i can make something available.

Hello!

Anyone has any experience with the Liquid Instruments Moku:Go?

Hi , I sell dac ECdesigns Power dac -R with modified capacitors and power supply with a much higher result than the factory version. Ready to run with which of all the ones I've tried for me is the best possible transport, and I've tried others much more expensive.

Price 1.100€ plus Shipping Only European Union.

ECdesings remote
Rapsberry Pi 4 B 8gb
Ian Canada IAN CANADA PUREPI Ultracapacitor / Batteries Dual Power Supply Module for Raspberry Pi 5V/3.3V
Ian Canada SHIELD PI PRO
Ian Canada Transport Pi Digi with Crystek 957 clocks
Toslink cable:
ATAUDIO Hifi
Ru Connected
Optilink 5

Its sound is wonderful, completely analog and very detailed, you are for hours nailed to the chasm without being able to get up, but I have a dac with Philips tda1541A double crown, and I could not say which of the two sounds better because the sound is practically identical, it does not make sense for me to have two dacs that sound equally good.

Thanks

I have a faulty Allen & Heath ZEDi-10 Mixer.
I'm looking for a new Mixer to replace the faulty A&H Mixer.
Can someone send me some information from where i might be able to find an equivalent mixer, preferably in Europe?

Wanted to do this passively, DIY. Is it even possible? If yes, do i need resistors of some kind, somewhere?

Thanks.

Hi Guys!

I am preparing a build of my next set of speakers.
I already purchased a set of Beyma TPL-150H, but miss the mid-bass driver.

The driver is supposed to fill the gap between my SB Acoustic subwoofers, crossed at 100 Hz, and the TPL’s.
Not sure, where to cross over the TPL’s, but I assume in the range of 1200-1600 Hz?
It is not possible to cross the subs higher than 100 Hz; they are slot loaded, and sounds “funny”, when crossed higher.

The system will be working as active, driven by 3 sets of Lyngdorf TDAI 2200.

I have been looking thoroughly through the data sheets of majority of drivers available, and tried to find inspiration in other builts, but perhaps some of you have real-life experience.
I favour professional drivers with high BL and low moving mass.

Thanks in advance, and greeting from Denmark!

Crown D-75A Scratching my head on Bridged Mono Mode.

I purchased two Crown D- 75A Amplifiers to use in Bridged mono mode. 1st I tested them in Dual mode and all Good. Then I tested them in Mono Bridged mode. If I hook the speaker up as per the manual figure 2-7 ( speaker connected to both the positive terminals) I get a low output and the amp really heats up. NO GOOD ! Forgot to mention , inside there is a jumper that must be placed in Mono or Dual depending how you are hooking up.
If I hook up on just on the speaker channel 1 terminals + and - , I measure the output at 51 watts.
This sounds ok but I am suppose to have 110 watts as per the specs. I have been ripping my hair out trying to figure this out and I don't have much. Anyone with some Ideas? It says Clearly in the manual not to use the negative terminals in bridged mono mode.
I'm sure im missing something, Just have no idea what.
Cheers

Hello,
Can someone help me with EPQ900 repair? Schematic needed, or at least, R185 value:

Thanks.

Interested in one, or possibly three in working condition. Can pay up to 150$ each. PayPal is prefered.

Hi
I have a problem, any help appreciated!

Im bit of a newbie when it comes to tubes, and i bought wavac md-300b amplifier.
It works perfectly with 6y6 tubes, but:

-I was told that i could try 6Y6G tubes as a substitute for 6Y6, but when i try them there is loud popping noises from both channels (even if volume is zero)
and finally a loud hum from both speakers.


So was i given bad information, or is the tube faulty?


Link to video:
Login to view embedded media

Aloha, someone had schematic to convert Soundstream D100ll into Soundstream Class A50? If Zener_Diode is still around if i can get him to give me a copy or anyone else has one? Thanks

I've just taken a chance on one of these for my office system and all I can say is wow! It's already brought me £90 worth of joy and I've only had it for a week.

All the manual functions work well and I've seen a few bit of general tech spec info online and instructions to get the auto functions going again but there isn't much other info about and I have many questions!!

In no particular order....

1) the lifting up and down of the tone arm - it sort of but doesn't really work. I've tried to manually readjust and it's ok briefly but then it sags even if the silver screw is tightened. How can I solve this? Any other decks with a similar mechanism with an online refurb vid?

2) What are the 'floating' and ' auto in adjust' all about? I've not seen those on other decks.

3) does anyone have a service manual?

Thanks as ever to this awesome community.

Scrolling through my Tidal track library I noticed that 20-30% (thousands!) of title headings have gone to a light gray shaded print (see yellow checks in attachment)meaning ‘the record label no longer allows streaming of this track’ This has happened before occasionally, but not on this level, the same track/same album is still available if you search it again and save it back to the playlist. Now this was a minor inconvenience but now is a major inconvenience and will take many hours to rectify. There seems to be no contact email for tidal on my home page and its seems to me if the tracks are still going to be available but just expired due to contract negotiations Tidal should automatically update the songs affected !?

Anyone know of a workaround to keep this from happening in the future, setting maybe overlooked? Would downloading the playlist solve it (you can download as long as your subscription stays current) ?

This is a major pita!

thanks
Bob

I get a better indication when lineout specs are in voltage figures.

My preamp preouts are 75 ohms, a crossover I'm interested in has output preout power of 100 ohms.

What does this equate to in voltage at the outputs?

Since I'm using pa amps for my subs, my domestic preamp is starving the inputs of power. I have to max the gains on the amps to operate the subs. But its not enough for me.

Im leaving a bunch of spl's on the table this way.

So I thought defeating the onboard crossover and putting a dbx 223xs for a stand in would remedy two things.

But is a 25 ohm step up significant enough to light the subs up and push them properly?

Input requirements for the pa amp are selectable, either 1.4 Vrms and .775Vrms.

BTW I had set it on both to test. There is no difference between them in terms of main volume increases/decreases. Wich is baffling to me. The pa amp in question Crown xls 1002.

My main question about the 25 ohm increase with the dbx is the million dollar question. If it makes my subs work and actually push some air Ill pull the trigger.

The inline boosters I tried failed. This seems like one area where quality parts are not offered. Unless Im over looking something.

This is a great package deal for three different Shiit pieces. All three pieces are in excellent cosmetic and perfect working condition. They come complete with original wall wart/power supplies. I can sell these only a package. I am the original owner. I no longer have the original shipping boxes but they will be securely packaged.

1. Original Schiit Modi Multibit DAC. This unit is about 6 years old with the upgrade chip that had the updated instruction set. Comes with Instruction booklet.

2. Loki Mini + 5 band equalizer. Less than a year old. No instruction booklet.

3. Magni 2 headphone amp. About 5 years old with instruction booklet.

Free shipping in the USA only. $175 for all 3 pieces. PayPal only.

Hi guys, as per the title I'm looking for some opinions on box construction methods. I recently created a prototype box for my new active monitor build using B&C 8NDL51, SB26ADC in 8" Augerpro Waveguide and Hypex FA122 in sealed box with F3 around 80hz as per THX spec.

So far I'm very happy with the results, although the unbraced MDF test box does seem to emit a far amount of sound, especially the rear of the box. For the final version of the speaker, I would like to use Baltic Birch instead of MDF, as I absolutely hate working with MDF. I have been designing a few different box construction examples in Sketcup and also doing some reading on here. It seems I can't find an answer about this subject.

I have a few possible construction methods, I'd love some input about which one you would choose and why. Attached is a side picture of the box design. The compartment at the rear is for the Hypex amplifier, meaning there will be around a 50mm gap between the woofer rear wall and the actual rear wall of the cab. All of the options will be with the box stuffed with some type of acoustic wadding material.

Option 1) 18mm BB (Baltic Birch) box with 30mm front baffle. 18mm center brace glued directly to the sides, top and bottom of the box and an extra 18mm brace between the front baffle and the vertical brace.

Option 2) 24mm BB box with 30mm front baffle. 24mm center brace glued directly to the sides, top and bottom of the box and an extra 24mm brace between the front baffle and the vertical brace.

Option 3) 18mm BB box with 30mm front baffle. 18mm center brace but 1mm short to the sides and to the top and bottom to allow a loose fit and a layer of flexible adhesive glue around the brace to the box. ie CLD brace.

Option 4) 24mm BB box with 30mm front baffle. 24mm center brace but 1mm short to the sides and to the top and bottom to allow a loose fit and a layer of flexible adhesive glue around the brace to the box. ie CLD brace.

Option 5) 18mm BB box all around. 12mm MDF inner box with a layer of flexible adhesive and or rubber matting. CLD box.

So far, option 3 seems the most sensible and the most straightforward form of CLD.

What do you guys think? As I mentioned, most of the sound leakage seems to be from the rear of the test box, however, the test box doesn't have the separation of the amp compartment. I'm thinking that in the final design, even without CLD, the rear of the box is separated from the rear wall of the driver box, and so should mean that there would be very little leakage to the rear regardless, its wether CLD will benefit the sides of the box, whether a CLD brace would be useful or whether the normal stiff brace and glue method would be sufficient.

I'm in this hobby for over 40 years and I am not easily imressed but this Ripol (dipole variant) is worth sharing with the comunity.
If you are a teen that needs PA level bass don't read any further, but if you want true to the signal authentic deep reaching bass this is for you.
I was searching really hard to find a 12" Speaker for about $30 with good enough specs to be used in a dipole bass speaker.
low and behold I found one that really does all I need it to do.
+-6mm cone travel with a high qts of about 0.6 and 33hz resonace.
Jensen JWS 300 CP 4110hf (Germany). AfaIk that ceap $20 Blaupunkt 12" raw speaker at Walmart is almost identical in specs.
I build 4 Ripol speakers with it and they perform excellent.
It is by far the best bass I had in my home yet. If I ever put up my horn system again it will only be paired with these dipoles. When my better half saw the four 12" speakers she thought oh please not another monster speaker in our tiny living room. After they where finished she actually likes them. At the moment I run them paired with my abused Karlsonators and they integrate perfectly.
The surface is sand poured on pva glue.

Greets, Klaus

A S/PDIF switch can be useful when we have more digital audio sources than the number of inputs available on a DAC.

I wanted to do this a long while ago and finally managed to get at it recently.

This little project makes use of the internal 8-channel selector offered by WM8805 S/PDIF receiver, and was designed to select one out of up to 8 S/PDIF feeds under the monitor and control of an Arduino Nano micro controller board.

Unlike a usual switch-and-buffer type of device, WM8805 re-clocks its on-chip S/PDIF transmitter and does not pass the incoming jitter on to the output, therefore upkeeps the S/PDIF signal quality in terms of jitter reduction/rejection. That is why so my choice was.

Whazon’s operation is simple, it keeps polling the 8 inputs in turn and stops at the first one its PLL manages to lock up to. A duplicated, de-jittered S/PDIF signal is then sent out with the S/PDIF transmitter, available in coaxial and optical form.

Whatzon receives remote control via an inexpensive Bluetooth-serial I/O tranceiver, model HC-05, paired with a smart phone running a Bluetooth terminal app.

The channel polling described above can be enabled/disabled with the phone. Forced channel change to desired channel, and next higher channel are also easily implemented.

An I2S copy of the selected input signal is also sent out at WM8805’s bidirectional digital audio interface for future project expansion. It is however not being put to use at present, except that a buffered copy of the LRCK is sent to the Arduino for exact sample rate detection (that WM8805 is not fully capable of).

The PCB is a compact 10cm * 10cm double sided design, with a break-away optical I/O section. Whazon accepts 4 coaxial (BNC) and 4 optical inputs with current PCB design. It is possible to replace the optical input receivers in the current breakaway design with BNC connectors to make all channels BNC input. The coupling and termination circuit layout around the WM8805 works with both types for that 4 channels.

Whazon is powered by a 5Vdc cell phone charger through a micro USB port that serves as a programming port for the Arduino as well when connected to a PC that runs Arduino development system.

Successful so far: input channel polling, PLL locking, exact sample rate detection -- tested good with 44.1, 48, 88.2, and 96KHz signals, haven't tested 32KHz, 176.4KHz, and 192KHz yet as I don't have such sources.

Being worked on: an OLED screen display that shows current input channel and sample rate --- Done.

In the plan: A button push or a remote that forces switching to the next input and starting the polling/channel rotation --- Remote done.

The PCB layout screen shot is of top side of Rev.2 design to be sent to a PCB house soon.

There is a youtube video in post #5 below that shows this project in action.

Hello, I want to get better tweeters for my krk 8 2gen.
I was looking for mountable ones that I can drill a hole on top and rewire .
Any suggestions?
I found these :
PIONEER TS-A300TW 20mm 450 Watt Component Tweeter https://a.co/d/96V1you
The tweeters I have now are working but with age I think they just don't sound so clean , I did clean up the amplifier board and replaced caps with low ESR nichicon.
And I don't feel like paying KRK $40 for each twwter and getting the same crap, in don't really care about astetics too much.

Thank you

The following are the only ones with affordable shipping to my country. They vary from being dirt cheap to relatively expensive:

50mm 24Ohm Headphone Speaker Unit Pure Copper DIY Audiophile Loudspeakers driver for Denon AH D9200|Earphone Accessories| - AliExpress

Excellent Sound New 50mm 32 Ohm Iron Cover Speaker Unit With Upgrade Diaphragm Audiophile Loudspeakers Driver For Diy Headphone - Protective Sleeve - AliExpress

40mm Headphone Speaker Driver 32ohm | 40mm Speaker Replacement | Headphone Parts 40mm - Protective Sleeve - Aliexpress

Excellent Hifi Sound New 40mm Speaker Unit For Diy Headphone Amazing Speaker Clear Sound Balance Sound - Earphone Accessories - AliExpress

40mm Carbon Paper Sound Driver Speakers Unit For Diy Headphones 10hz-80khz Superior Sound Quality Speaker Engineered By Onkyo - Earphone Accessories - AliExpress

Original Replacement 52mm Diy Speaker Unit For Akg N90 N90q Headphones - Earphone Accessories - AliExpress

https://www.daraz.lk/products/headp...0e.searchlist.list.46.5bc424b7DQ9D3S&search=1

I appreciate any and all help. Thank you!

I am already regretting a recent purchase of a Counterpoint SA20. All the FETs are blown and probably more based on the old posts I've been reading. That said, I would like to get it going and need referrals to older posts and/or a troubleshooting order of march and plenty of recommendations on what to look out for!

I'm familiar and have restored a number of Haflers and have seen a couple of posts suggesting that lateral FETS make good replacements (with bias changes?) for the obsolete RFM10N15 & IR9241. I've seen strong pro & con posts--any winners? Other FETs mentioned: IRFP240 / 9240, IRF243/9241, 2SJ56/2SK176 and possibly others.

Also, claims of fanatical matching required, as adding Source resistors is considered a heresy that ruins the quality of the sound. Sorry if this opens old wounds, but I'd really like to restore this amp and stay as true as practical to the original design. Yes, I'm waffling, but need to understand my options / time required / cost.

Thanks in advance to those Counterpoint experts out there that are willing to coach a Counterpoint newbie through his first repair!
Regards,
Ivan

I'm looking to add subwoofers (2) to my existing, somewhat dated, system. (BEL 2002, Spectral DMC-10, Daybreak 3-way pair) mid to late 80's era stuff.
the Daybreaks house Audax drivers with "poly" cones (1" tweeter, 6" mid, 8" woofer) I haven't settled on whether the crossovers will be passive or active.

the Peerless drivers I'm looking at are NOS 12" 831857 produced in Denmark. I realize this means they're about 15 years old or so and reflect the technology
of the era. (prices are comparable to the Dayton Audio 12" reference units... maybe 10 -15% less) the boxes they'll live in are 4 cubic feet in size.

if anyone here could compare / contrast vintage Peerless with similar but more current offerings I'd be grateful.

TIA
jerry

DIP sockets are popular for allowing convenient experimentation with different opamps. However, I am wondering if there is any objective loss as opposed a soldered PDIP opamp? It would seem likely that solder joints would be objectively superior to the friction joints into the sockets... and thus have a potential difference in performance or SQ. Has anyone tested this?

Hi Everyone,

Any ideas about how to convert optical SPDIF to the AD1866 interface format?

I was thinking about using a SPDIF to I2S converter, similar to this and then converting the signal to the AD1866 format, in this case only the latch signals need to be modified (LL and LR). Do you know if any board with this functionality is currently available for purchase in europe?

To produce the LL and LR signals I have designed a circuit using the 74 series logic family, it seems to work on simulation, but I don't have a clue if it actually works in practice, also, this circuit is a bit complex and requires a lot of ICs. Only faster digital devices 74FXX or 74SXX seem to be quick enough for sample rates of 88.2 kHz and over, 74HCXX and 74LSXX, only work for 48 kHz or less. I also have an Arduino Due board, do you know if it can be used for the format conversion? Is there any simple way to convert optical SPDIF or I2S to the AD1866 format, using only one or two ICs?

I have attached a few pictures of the block diagram, interface conversion logic circuit, timing diagrams and a TINA SPICE simulation file.

3 channel balanced F5 amplifiers (6 channels total) - minus power supplies. F5 boards were purchased from diyaudio and I used Toshiba mosfets. Open to offers - thanks.

Hi. Someone know what cabinet is the one in photo and maybe share with me the plan so i can build one? Thank you in advance.

I'm looking for data on a Plitron 6122-V2-00 300 VA toriodal medical isolation transformer #200607.

Hi, I need help building an F1. I followed all the instructions, PCB (clone), paired Vishay mosfets, only instead of ztx 550 I put bc 327. The problem is that I cannot adjust the offset with P1 nor with P2 (100 kOhm-2M). The difference is about 5V!!? Only when I connect 10-20 Ohms to P2, the offset is good, but the heating is excessive. It confuses me even more that the situation on both channels is identical. Maybe someone has a solution?

I am considering to sell my LX521 speakers, due to room they are placed in is too small for these. These are truly superb speakers, they`re clarity and level of details are astonishing. They are designed as full-range dipole, for flat on-axis and off-axis response in the horizontal plane and frontal hemisphere. The speakers need breathing room of at least 1 m to the nearest large reflecting surfaces and a room with a minimum floor size of 25 sqm.

All seas speakers, with special black coned edition of woofers. All panels are made in CNC machined HDF material, all cabling is also hidden within the material as seen on the pictures 🙂

Please be aware that these speakers are located in norway, they can be shipped on a pallet to anywhere, but they are heavy and this will probably cost in the area of 500-1500USD depending on location.

I am asking 3200USD for these speakers, power amps and DSP is not included.

Right now there are cheap USB HDMI capture devices being sold on AliExpress, ebay, amazon and the likes. They cost less than $10/€10. These dongles expose a standard UVC webcam and a USB audio class soundcard to the system. The video is MJPEG encoded and the audio is lossless stereo 16bit 48kHz PCM.

For anyone running a crossover/convolver/other DSP on a Raspberry Pi this provides an easy method to get sound into your DSP computer. As it's just plain HDMI this works to add DSP processing to Chromecast devices, Apple TV, FireTV sticks and the likes and also regular computers independent of operating systems.

To make stereo capture work with Linux you need a very recent kernel that contains an ALSA configuration quirk. Without this the device is detected as a 16 bit 96000 mono capture device. The quirk has been added to the 5.8 kernel and if I understand correctly will also be backported to LTS kernels.

Even with the quirk in place the left and right channels are swapped but this can easily be dealt with in software - either remapping while grabbing with ffmpeg or system wide with pulseaudio remap-sink for example.

With the RC 6 of kernel 5.8 the audio capture device is detected correctly:


The video part works with any recent kernel and shows up like this:


While capturing is limited to 1080p30 with MJPEG compression (and 5fps lossless), the HDMI input supposedly accepts any signal up to 4k60 12bit. I have not tested this yet.

There is another version that has both an HDMI input and an output so the capture device can be inserted between a playback device and the TV. I ordered one of those to try next as that would allow me to extract audio from the HDMI link for DSP processing while leaving the video signal as it is.

Looking for a pair of PCM63 dac chips. Standard, J,K,Y, any would do just to try out a DIY all in one headphone project.
I'll cover shipping from anywhere.

Thank you.

SOLD!!!!!!


a pair of t25s-6.
Used 30h in testing against other tweeters with music, no extremely loud volumes i am sensitive to sibilance and too loud sound..
not soldered but connected with clips to test so clean connectors.
Condition is NEW.

https://hificompass.com/en/reviews/bliesma-t25a-6-t25b-6-t25d-6-t25s-6

Asking 150e for a pair.
New pair costs 300e+ with many sellers.
Will post images tomorrow as i get home, but condition is new..

I recently built a passive preamp for myself until the integrated amp that I bought came in. As usual, it took a lot more work than I intended to complete, but you know, was worth it. I am offering this unit at US Audio Mart for $450. It would be easier for you to read the ad that I placed than to type it all here. I have some photos that will give an idea of the quality of this unit. I need to add that the last photo shows the actual knob that comes with the unit. It looks best and performs perfectly. I always like discussing things like this so feel free to ask questions!
Note: Despite photos showing marks, these do not exist. Seriously, there is not the tiniest mark anywhere.

Hi,

Pics and schematic of the line stage section at
VNAV • View topic - KSL-M77 Preamplifier by KONDO, Audio Note Japan.

If I understand the schematic, and assuming that the schematic is correct, the first tube runs at 140Vp-k at ~500uA per section and about the same for the DC coupled CF. Pd ~0.07W - tubes would last a long time!

Looks kind of standard and un-inspiring, yet so highly reviewed even at 30k or so (with phono).

In house caps and resistors, a 6X4 in parallel with SS diodes, some electro B supply caps. I might have to build this thing.. can it be THAT easy?


Shane

Does anyone have experience of using these drivers in OB or sealed enclosures for low mid use? I have a pair that I would like to try in my 4 way active system. I know they are generally used in horns, and I have heard them sounding very good indeed, but I don't have the space. I'm looking for a bit more attack on transients than I currently get with OB mounted Cabasse 30Ds, which go very low indeed in the right sealed or ported box, and are a bit wasted in this system. Efficiency is not an issue as there is plenty of amplifier power available, and it won't be used below about 170 hz. From research I've done so far it looks like it might be hard making a sealed enclosure small enough, and I can always just try a small OB or open back, but I'd be interested to hear any real experiences.

I’ve been looking for a cost effective stereo combo amp for my new keyboard and I’ve not really found anything that’s suitable, size, price, features, so I was wondering about maybe making my own. I’d use this for practicing, jams and maybe small gigs.

I’ve seen the visaton BG20 drivers, and I think a pair of these would be sufficient for what I need, but I’m struggling to find suitable components for the amp side.

I’ve seen a few of these type amp boards on eBay eBay

suggesting they can deliver 2x150w which would be more than enough, however I have no idea what sort of power supply I would need to power one of these boards, or even if one of these boards would actually be powerful enough (as they look pretty unsubstantial)

What suggestions are there for either some form of plate amp or amp board and psu to make a little combo amp capable of comfortably hitting 60w.

Help! I’ve foolishly blown my Tannoy Stratford speakers. Looking for replacment drive units and crossovers. Pref UK. All advice welcome.

I want to use as lower device a 2SK170BL to set the CCS range till 20mA but can't reach the 20mA, it's due to the fact that I'm using BL grade with Idss between 6-8mA and I have to use a higher Idss?

Attached pic, I use for upper device IXTP01N100D.

I have just purchased a pair of modern legendary active monitors JBL LSR305. They were on sale at thomann.de obviously because a MkII model has been released recently.

This little gem has been reviewed eg. here JBL LSR305 Studio Monitors

I ran some measurements and listened to a single speaker today. Measurements line up with noaudiophile well. Sound is very impressive but there is a strong coloration making them sound boxy, also knucle test result is poor. I put the mic almost in contact with panel and every measurement showed strong distortion around 240Hz. It is obviously a 1/1 wall resonance based on height of the cabinet. --> http://semimac.org/wp-content/uploa...-Vibration-Analysis-Loudspeaker-Enclosure.pdf

Internal cross-bracing should kill that well, I'll try that during next days and report my findings!

Hi all,

I have the Adelphos MTM kit and am in the process of building the cabinet.
These are fairly large stand-mount speakers at around 22" cabinet height.
The tweeter is center height, so I think something like 17" stands would be needed.
I'm slightly concerned about the stability and aesthetics of placing these on stands.

I'd appreciate input on whether any of these are preferred options:
1) Build a full size cabinet (approx. 40" height). The top 22" would be enclosed (as originally designed) with the bottom 18" open.
2) Build the bottom half as a bass module. Jeff Bagby published one of these but it assumes the non-MTM version and is 25" height, so I need a different option.

Thanks

Hi there,
I'm starting this thread because I want to know more about Class D amplification, and what other people think.
CHEERS 🙂

Just finished a pair of Klipsch Belles, using one inch euro birch ply, with American Walnut veneer. Seriously heavy.

Not adding the "v" shaped grills....and leaving the thick ply edges exposed.

I've added a larger access panel, which sits snugly within the 60mm tall plinth.

Crites 15-inch woofer is being used.

My mate has already built the Bill Woods 300Hz conical horn, with the metal throat assembly. (I will be making a new pair of horns in matching walnut ply.)

Fostex T900A tweeter will also be added.

Xover is interesting, using first-order, transformer, approx 500Hz to start with.

A fun project.

as above.

I've searched the net but came up empty.

Digikey has a calculator to select the required resistor value for the selected time or resistance (https://www.digikey.com.au/en/resou...version-calculator-capacitor-safety-discharge)

Thanks

EDIT: permanently soldered to the caps in the power supply

What do your ear's prefer stuffed in speakers and subwoofer boxes?

I bought the smallest bundle of rockwool I could find. It must be the family sized. For box stuffing and acoustic treatments.

How do you keep that where you don't want it? Ie in speaker motors and in moveable parts. This applies mostly if it can hinder cooling.

I'm in the process of designing a DIY turntable and, so far, have been using a Maxon A-Max DC motor. The only problem I've been having is that the terminals are quite fragile. The first time this happened, I reached out to Maxon to see if there was any option for repairing it. From the way it is manufactured, it appears that it should be possible to purchase an assembly that connects to the bottom including new terminals. I was informed that this is not the case and that my only option was to purchase a new motor. I was able to repair it myself by soldering on a small wire. However, today the second terminal broke.

Other than this design flaw, I really like the motors, but I'm not inclined to keep buying them at > $170 with no recourse for repair. Any suggestions?

I'm thinking about doing a new project with horns but I'm not sure where things are today. It's been about a decade since I really played with speakers. Back then oblate spheroid waveguides were just getting popular and 3d printing was new. Considering how far our tech has come I'm curious if there has been any real big movements in our understanding of creating amazing speakers with waveguides and horns. I'm considering building something with a seos 24" ($400) or the JBL 2360 ($400-$800) with a driver like the celestion Axi2050, which can play 300-20khz, a feat previously almost impossible by technology of the past 100 years of audio or so. Does the 2360 really still hold up for a high end home setup as some show it has or is the SEOS with it's oblate spheroid style style bring a higher level of performance due to it's the propagation of the wave being more optimized using more modern techniques (the goal obviously being low high order modes as well as a reduction of reflections due to the directivity of the wave propagation).

As far as the bottom half I've been playing with the idea of a dipole using JBL 2225H's as I have a pair and I think I could get another pair easily - however I am not sure if I need the drivers pointing at the listening space at 300-500hz or if I can put them in a W style dipole enclosure (ie. slot style) and enjoy them that way.

Anyone able to help me get up to speed on what is considered modern best practices for this style of no hold barred speaker design?

I'm looking for a decent MC phono pre in either kit form or pre assembled for med gain cratiridges. Adjustable subsonic filter would be great as would be cartridge loading. I just want something better than your typical fair op amp design. Any thoughts or ideas?

As per tittle need some help with this SME 3009 series 2 Improved counterweight
Yes I did search the forum and Google for hours and got even more confused
I have a project on stand by because I can't find any info about the screw thread size on this counterweight...
I am assuming that the tread is some sort of outdated British standard like Withworth or BA can someone help confirming this ?
I even asked my old boss for help but the old guy is 84 and the the old shop is a hell of a mess and could't find any screw or tap that fitted
.

Hi guys.
Are there any project of diy CD player with diy DAC?
Thanks

As far as I can see all Hypex solutions have IIR filters. Do you know a good alternative for me?

Okay, I admit it. I'm stuck, and a search on this forum gave me no answer. I remember that large format coaxial drivers have been discussed here time after time, but apparently my search skills are subpar to say the least.

To cut things straight, what I want is a 15-inch PA coax driver capable of going nicely from at least 50Hz to 18kHz, and be able to do this with a passive crossover. Active crossovers, DSP:s and such are simply out of the question, since I would use the resultant loudspeaker system to evaluate amplifiers.

My current reference would be the BMS 12C362, which gives a lovely midrange and treble, but falls short at the bass department.

I've been looking at several drivers; BMS 15C362, B&C 15CX40 and Beyma 15XA38Nd to name a few. And what I've found out so far, is that the BMS isn't going to cut it down low, the B&C was declared "shouty" somewhere, and I've yet to find any complaints about the Beyma.

So, I would appreciate any input from anyone who has experience on this field. Where should I look? I just want a BR box, which doesn't sound boomy, and goes up from the lowest E of a bass guitar with real sense of force. Too much to ask? Oh, and I'd really appreciate it if it had at least most of the midrange resolution of the BMS 12C362...

I have a set of F5 boards with transistor kit and the Nutube preamp board with Nutube I'd like to trade for the F4 boards and transistor kit. Everything is new and un-used. Will sell for cost of F4 boards and transistor from the store. Would prefer not split. You would be responsible for shipping.

I have Beyma TPL-150H and a B&C 8PE21 mid, and want to mount the midrange from the back of the baffle and adjust the baffle thickness such that both drivers are time aligned.


This means aligning the woofer's voice coil with the AMT membrane:

But what exactly should I align?
The AMT membrane is in the middle of the light-grey part of the motor assembly.
Where is the woofer's voice coil? In the exact middle of the magnet? Looking at drawings online it seems in some the voice coil is positioned closer to front vs the middle of the magnet.

Sorry for the basic question.

Thank you!

I'm trying to get my head around the coupling caps. I do understand that their purpose is to block the DC component of the signal however what I don't understand is why would the line output of a DAC have DC at all?

I could also put a cap just in case but considering that a line-in is around 10K of impedance, I would need a 1u cap and I can only find them in polarized type for SMD. Would a polarized cap work as intended in the absence of DC bias?

Hello Guys,

I own a Teac UD-503 DAC with heapphone amplifier intergrated.
UD-503 is based on AK4490 per channel, and featuring Teac's unique amplifier circuitry.

However, I don't like its soundstage. So I modded UD-503.
First, bypass cap for Vref is way too small, and according to datasheet, the larger capacitance the smaller THD. I don't understand why Teac uses just 100uF with extra space left.

Therefore, I increase these cap and replace them with Panasonic FM series.

In the amplification section, OPs like muses 8820 and NE5532 are used. I replaced NE5532 with MUSE02 with good result.

As for digital part, I noticed there're 2 SMD XO by NDK, but not the best. I choose NDK2520SDA and they matches perfectly.

Also, there are some 3-terminal IC, transferring 5V to 3.3Vdc. I replace one that is responsible for supplying XO, using LT3042 ultra low noise LDO.

For most digital filtering, Nichicon ultral lowe ESR FP CAP are used, this provide excellent performance for digital part.

Hello! I need to try them for a waveguide experiment, let me know if you a pair to spare.
Thank you!

Was this early start to forest fire season attributable to a new forest management rubric?

SOLD!!!

For sale a pair of Morel MW166 midwoofers.
Great bass for small enclosures.
Will send with outer plastic ring adapters to fit 165mm
110€ shipped within EU






SOLD!!!

I’m interested in depositing this in a good and decent condition and it features : Stereo output: 250W per channel, fully balanced design, EMI/RFI filtered AC inlet, Heavy, custom designed aluminum case with blue LED pilot. (LED may be dimmed or shut-off by switch) 8″W x 11″D x 3.125″H 6.7lbs.

$550 USD

​

....

Hello--

Finally looking at the Audiovox AVX-900 as the ole Craig that got fixed sounds just awful. Current symptoms, when the power is turned on, no response from the buttons, display (inverted), tape deck constantly spins and ignores input. Poking around, at least the top two blue capacitors have leaked, and I am going to assume the rest of the blue ones have. Audio amps are a paired NEC C1182H-3, C1181H-3(?) (cant see it), tuner is a toshiba t1400-U with an iron core tuner. I havent dug around the rest of the radio, but I am going to assume all blue caps will need to be replaced. I know its really up to me, but based on the hardware, would it be worth it to save this radio? It concerns me that not even the display turns on...

I bought a double pair of KLH Nines about 10 years ago. I needed to restore the power supplies and with the help of David Janszen and some owners in forums on the net I did restore them. Not an easy task with all the wax melting 🙂 . Needless to say they sound incredible and I've been listening to them for the last 8 years. Anyway, I got the polarity of the diodes wrong and now they are all positive power supplies instead of negative, which apparently generated positive ions which for what I've read on-line is not good for you. It does not alter the sound at all but I was wondering about the effects, if any, of all those positive ions. So I ask the group what to do:

1) Do nothing. All this talk of positive ions is BS. They have no effect on us (I like this option)

2) Rebuild the power supplies with the right diode polarity. Positive ions are bad for you. ( I DO NOT like this option)

3) Buy a negative ion generator to neutralize the positive ions from the speaker.

Thanks.

Hi all, Can I hear of the view of you fine experts on whether Coral Flat 5s would work in Fostex FE108ez horns. The drivers are 132mm wide yet the horns designed for 108mm wide drivers. With the Corals being a 5-inch driver, there are limited horn designs, plus I’d love to build the above design, but I need to get advice as it’s a lot of effort and money to get wrong.