A ON/OFF AXIS brain storming and influence on bass response
- By andreaemme
- Multi-Way
- 3 Replies
Hello, welcome! I'm back in that unhealthy vortex of dissatisfaction that is created when you try to listen to music and you are convinced that there is a way to listen to it better. I've had a pair of old but good MTM transmission line tower speakers for a while now, so far listened to in my living room in a 'calm' state, all ok, but perhaps 'too ok' in the sense that I a little bored, and I said to myself: why don't I do some measurements to see if I can liven something up? I then saw that in my opinion the Morel was cut too high, thus losing much of its expressiveness, and causing, again in my opinion, a bad off-axis response, because the mid-high range was entrusted to the midwoofers (Vifa 6.5'' ) up to too high; also the time alignment was good but could be improved. This is what I achieved with fairly simple changes (also perhaps understanding how to avoid the mistakes I made before which always led to sibilance problems):
ORIGINAL situation
MODIFIED situation
OVERLAY of the two (I attach the simulations only for the convenience of superposition and because they are quite faithful to the measurements, which only have a more regular and flat trend)
A more open and emotionally engaging, dynamic, 'fresh' and pleasant mid-high range, which in my opinion exploits the expressive potential of the beautiful Morel much more.
Furthermore, I also installed 5 cm sound-absorbing panels on the rear wall behind the speakers, which are approximately 35 cm from it, for a height and width equal to the height of the speakers; the mouth of the transmission line is on that side about 35 cm from the ground.
The problem is that now I can hear the basses well everywhere in the room... except the listening spot on the sofa in the middle of the living room!! When I sit there, the bass disappear into thin air, if I walk around they reappear in all their beauty.
My question is: what could this phenomenon depend on?
Thank you to all!
ORIGINAL situation
MODIFIED situation
OVERLAY of the two (I attach the simulations only for the convenience of superposition and because they are quite faithful to the measurements, which only have a more regular and flat trend)
A more open and emotionally engaging, dynamic, 'fresh' and pleasant mid-high range, which in my opinion exploits the expressive potential of the beautiful Morel much more.
Furthermore, I also installed 5 cm sound-absorbing panels on the rear wall behind the speakers, which are approximately 35 cm from it, for a height and width equal to the height of the speakers; the mouth of the transmission line is on that side about 35 cm from the ground.
The problem is that now I can hear the basses well everywhere in the room... except the listening spot on the sofa in the middle of the living room!! When I sit there, the bass disappear into thin air, if I walk around they reappear in all their beauty.
My question is: what could this phenomenon depend on?
- from the fact that the off-axis response has worsened rather than improved as I expected (and therefore I haven't understood anything about it so far), and then I 'feel' the mid-high range stronger only on-axis?
- from the fact that before I was more careful to 'look' for beauty in the medium-high range and didn't care about the low range? Yet I am convinced that there wasn't that much difference in bass between sitting and standing....!
- from the installation of sound-absorbing panels?
Thank you to all!
For Sale Wood frames for tube amplifiers
These are "raw" High quality american walnut wood frames + 3 mm thickness aluminium top plate + perforated aluminium bottom plate.
Dimensions are:
390 mm x 450 mm x 80 mm.........3 units
260 mm x 580 mm x 80 mm.........1 units
Price per unit ......140 euro + shipping anywhere......
Thank you.
I use them into these projects:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/el34-baby-huey-amplifier.326920/post-7380662
Dimensions are:
390 mm x 450 mm x 80 mm.........3 units
260 mm x 580 mm x 80 mm.........1 units
Price per unit ......140 euro + shipping anywhere......
Thank you.
I use them into these projects:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/el34-baby-huey-amplifier.326920/post-7380662
Attachments
Path to noiseless Linux streamer...
After now 20 years of building different DACs and playing with different streamer, I finally ended up with Andrea Mori's Clocks/ FIfo and DAC...which brought a level of realimns and transparency to my system which called for reviewing the source. Until today the reference has been an Alix 1D, Sotm Usb-Card, linear PSU and MPDpup, a very lightweight Puppy derivate where many good people fine-tuned this to the best...second best distro I heard until today has been Archphile.
Unfortunately, my hardware is old and none of these distros are maintained any longer, so I started a new approach:
The Linux Kernel brought with 5.15 a new tracer (RTLA)to trace OS-Noise and Latency in a white box approach, so you can easily make your Kernel configurations or system modifications visible....this is a HUGE help to see what does what...and we can now truely measure OS-Noise, so it is not a philosophical believe question.
Have a look just as an example on the osnoise effects of binding tasks to CPU-core vs. isolating the core vs. true tickless operation:
From H. Akkan, M. Lang, L.M. Liebrock, Stepping towards noiseless Linux environment)
The RTLA-Osnoise tool is very powerful, it shows you the noise effect of anything you try per CPU-core be it threadning IRQs, isolating core, assigning and priotizing task or running a tickless Kernel. I invite anyone to try it.
Sofar there is a very strong correlation in my experiments between lowering OS-Noise and better, more direct, more transparent SQ with richer tone at the same time, some people would call it "analog" sound...you can measure as well the effects on OS-Noise of
and many more.
Additionally, I found that in Linux Core 5.15 (and versions after), some very interesting topics have been added for the audiophile:
For my experiments, I started with Debian Bullseye as I can easily generate my own kernels for nearly any platform using DIetpi or Armbian as a starting point. It is really very easy and I am happy to share the how to if there is interest.
There are two different categories of settings:
A. Those which are difficult to negelect or argue about their positive efffects, any Linux streamer would benefit from them
B. Those where it is a matter of personal taste, your way of listening
Lets start with A.
These are setting which not only from a theoretical and OS-Noise-Measurement PoV make a difference, but which I found easily audible (in my system suing a N5100 fanless MiniPC):
And here is my current list of B. topics which are audible as well, but a matter of your personal taste:
Thats is where my efforts stand at the moment...next on the list:
I am happy to share any level of detail how I did what if there is interest. I am very eager to learn from others and their findings I could try myself in my setup additionally. I am not interested at all in generic discussion about "All Sources sound the same" or "A fifo will make any source sound the same" etcetc... that is a waste of time and energy.
So, the purpose of this thread is really to get to a modern alternative to archphile or MPDpup for any platform and for any Linux-version usable. And sharing knowledge, saving you time.
Unfortunately, my hardware is old and none of these distros are maintained any longer, so I started a new approach:
- "Universal recipe": ARM, x86, Raspberry, NeoPi: Should serve any platform and any Linux "dialect"
- Target to play PCM-files, so no real-time application like for a musician, this is about
- Lowest Noise primarily and lowest jitter secondaraly, Lowest latency in itself is not a reqirement at all.
The Linux Kernel brought with 5.15 a new tracer (RTLA)to trace OS-Noise and Latency in a white box approach, so you can easily make your Kernel configurations or system modifications visible....this is a HUGE help to see what does what...and we can now truely measure OS-Noise, so it is not a philosophical believe question.
Have a look just as an example on the osnoise effects of binding tasks to CPU-core vs. isolating the core vs. true tickless operation:
The RTLA-Osnoise tool is very powerful, it shows you the noise effect of anything you try per CPU-core be it threadning IRQs, isolating core, assigning and priotizing task or running a tickless Kernel. I invite anyone to try it.
Sofar there is a very strong correlation in my experiments between lowering OS-Noise and better, more direct, more transparent SQ with richer tone at the same time, some people would call it "analog" sound...you can measure as well the effects on OS-Noise of
- isolating cores for your player
- Using flac vs. wave
- hardware vs software volume mixer
- resolution of your files
- network vs. direct stored files
and many more.
Additionally, I found that in Linux Core 5.15 (and versions after), some very interesting topics have been added for the audiophile:
- Rewritten USB-driver for lower latency
- Dynamic switchable PremptionModel (none/voluntary/full) at runtime
- ALSA using HR_TImer as default
For my experiments, I started with Debian Bullseye as I can easily generate my own kernels for nearly any platform using DIetpi or Armbian as a starting point. It is really very easy and I am happy to share the how to if there is interest.
There are two different categories of settings:
A. Those which are difficult to negelect or argue about their positive efffects, any Linux streamer would benefit from them
B. Those where it is a matter of personal taste, your way of listening
Lets start with A.
These are setting which not only from a theoretical and OS-Noise-Measurement PoV make a difference, but which I found easily audible (in my system suing a N5100 fanless MiniPC):
- usage of a linear PSU is a a prerequisite for anything.
- usage of log2Ram or equivalent recommended
- use the USB-Port which comes from your SOC-Cpu and goes not through an extra third-part Controller (e.g. many MiniPC which a Z8350 have the one USB3.0 port from the Z8350 and some more USB2.0 from an external chip)
- Isolation of CPUs giving Ethernet to one core, USB to another and MPD on the third, any other IRQ or App runs on CPU 0.
- DIsable frequency scaling of the CPU, use userspace as governor with fixed frequency
- 1000 Hz timer frequency (which is normally only use with the Realtime PAtch, but here we use it without the overhead of the RT-Patch)
- nohz_full (full tickless mode)
- ALSA using HR_TImer as default
- echo 2048 > /sys/class/rtc/rtc0/max_user_freq
- echo 2048 > /proc/sys/dev/hpet/max-user-freq
- MPD running as a service with FIFO-RT scheduling Prio higher than 51 and higher IO-Prio (brings OSnoise down by 30%)
- If you can, avoid using a network. HIgh OS-Noise and directly streaming from an SSD sounds much more direct.
And here is my current list of B. topics which are audible as well, but a matter of your personal taste:
- Preemption Model: I prefer None to Premption voluntary or Full. None Sounds more direct more resolved, but a bit dirty. Full sound a bit damped and controlled, not as spontanious, in transients but very clean and warm.
- TSC vs HPET clocksource: Difficult. HPET is more musical, more rounded but less resolved sounding. I prefer TSC and set the KErnel option tsc=perfect to avoid any overhead.
- These two Prememtion Model and clocksource are interesting to combine in different ways as the crystalline sound of TSC goes nicely as well with a stronger preemption model...but I like it as resolved as possible,
Thats is where my efforts stand at the moment...next on the list:
- Compare x86 with many ARM-devices with the same Kernel-Settings
- Start to look into I2S directly like NanopiNEo3 seems to be supported directly by the Kernel, but each I2S implementation is board specific...there might be reasons why one boards sound better over USB than I2S and on another its the opposite.
- Compare Audio-Linux and Archphile at some point of time to this generic Debian-based solution...to see where we stand.
I am happy to share any level of detail how I did what if there is interest. I am very eager to learn from others and their findings I could try myself in my setup additionally. I am not interested at all in generic discussion about "All Sources sound the same" or "A fifo will make any source sound the same" etcetc... that is a waste of time and energy.
So, the purpose of this thread is really to get to a modern alternative to archphile or MPDpup for any platform and for any Linux-version usable. And sharing knowledge, saving you time.
HexiBase 3D Printed mini subwoofer, redux
- By jeroen94704
- Subwoofers
- 6 Replies
As many in this forum will know, a couple of years ago youtuber HexiBase built several 3D printed subs using the Tang Band W3-1876S 3" subwoofer. I was very interested at the time, but the lengthy 3D print was a problem for me. I got the idea to make a version of his design that was hollow on the inside, so it would print much faster and I could then fill it with concrete. I got as far as making the 3D model, but then life got in the way and I all but forgot about the project.
Fast forward 6 months, and youtuber DIY Perks posted a video where he did pretty much what I had in mind (Fill a 3D printed speaker enclosure with something pourable) only using his own speaker design. He also use concrete, but plaster of paris with PV glue mixed in. This gave me the kick in the butt I needed, and I bit the bullet.
I ordered the Tang Band driver, finished my HexiBase redux design:
And kicked off the 3D print:
It took quite a while (39 hours), and it's far from the cleanest 3D print I ever did, but eventually it was finished:
After a test-fit to see if the driver actually fit it was time to fill the enclosure it with modelling plaster. I used the orbital sander in the background to vibrate the enclosure while pouring to convince any air-bubbles to move to the top:
And here's the sub after curing in its natural habitat:
And this is what the plaster-side looks like:
This is a temporary setup, since I don't have a 2.1 amplifier, or something similar. Not entirely sure what I'll do yet, but right now I'm investigating a Teensy-based DSP + I2S DAC. I don't have any measurements or anything, but even with this temporary setup I subjectively get a much better bass sound than with just the KEF Q150's I have.
Feel free to ask any questions you like. If there's interest I'll happily publish the CAD and STL files on printables.
Fast forward 6 months, and youtuber DIY Perks posted a video where he did pretty much what I had in mind (Fill a 3D printed speaker enclosure with something pourable) only using his own speaker design. He also use concrete, but plaster of paris with PV glue mixed in. This gave me the kick in the butt I needed, and I bit the bullet.
I ordered the Tang Band driver, finished my HexiBase redux design:
And kicked off the 3D print:
It took quite a while (39 hours), and it's far from the cleanest 3D print I ever did, but eventually it was finished:
After a test-fit to see if the driver actually fit it was time to fill the enclosure it with modelling plaster. I used the orbital sander in the background to vibrate the enclosure while pouring to convince any air-bubbles to move to the top:
And here's the sub after curing in its natural habitat:
And this is what the plaster-side looks like:
This is a temporary setup, since I don't have a 2.1 amplifier, or something similar. Not entirely sure what I'll do yet, but right now I'm investigating a Teensy-based DSP + I2S DAC. I don't have any measurements or anything, but even with this temporary setup I subjectively get a much better bass sound than with just the KEF Q150's I have.
Feel free to ask any questions you like. If there's interest I'll happily publish the CAD and STL files on printables.
Help choosing the right resistors
hi.
can someone explain me what resistors do i need to get for my crossover? i have 2 questions
1. do i need a 10W or 20W resistors? this are the only W options i found (woofer=4 ohm 40W RMS. full-range woofer=8OHM 10W RMS)
2. what is the meaning of this 1OHM resistor (marked in the picture)? it dose not seem to change the output on VituixCAD, this crossover is based on a design from the software lib.
this is the layout
Peace and love
can someone explain me what resistors do i need to get for my crossover? i have 2 questions
1. do i need a 10W or 20W resistors? this are the only W options i found (woofer=4 ohm 40W RMS. full-range woofer=8OHM 10W RMS)
2. what is the meaning of this 1OHM resistor (marked in the picture)? it dose not seem to change the output on VituixCAD, this crossover is based on a design from the software lib.
this is the layout
Peace and love
Magnatone 107 B safe?
- By Greg6371
- Tubes / Valves
- 16 Replies
Hello all, I’m new to the forum and still learning amp repair. I have a long way to go. My question is, I’ve read the thread on the Magnatone 107 and making it safe. I have a Magnatone 107 B! I don’t believe it’s a hot chassis. But I wanted to post the schematic and see what you all think. Any help would be appreciated Thanks
Steg K204 blinking protection
Good morning everyone.
In my hands I have a STEG K2.04 with green LED on and red flashing.
Let's get to the point: The amplifier had an entire channel shorted, so I removed all 14 FETs (FQP22P10 and FQP33N10).
I also removed some transistors of the preamps as they had values out of tolerance.
In theory, since nothing is shorted anymore it should turn on, but instead it doesn't.
I then tried removing everything from the second channel too, but the problem persists.
By measuring the microcontroller(ST7LITE1) that manages the protection, I noticed that in the PROTECTION pin, +4.9V is present even if I lift that pin from the PCB. (In the K2.02 diagram I should find +5V in input not output)
I assumed it wasn't exactly the pic that was generating the problem, but by separating the switching board and the amplification board (they can be divided using screw terminals and a flat) and keeping them connected only through the flat, as soon as I apply a voltage on the REM, the amplifier starts and is no longer in protection.
I have a feeling that some RAIL voltage checking is done and for some reason it fails.
Does anyone have any idea how to test the microcontroller?
In my hands I have a STEG K2.04 with green LED on and red flashing.
Let's get to the point: The amplifier had an entire channel shorted, so I removed all 14 FETs (FQP22P10 and FQP33N10).
I also removed some transistors of the preamps as they had values out of tolerance.
In theory, since nothing is shorted anymore it should turn on, but instead it doesn't.
I then tried removing everything from the second channel too, but the problem persists.
By measuring the microcontroller(ST7LITE1) that manages the protection, I noticed that in the PROTECTION pin, +4.9V is present even if I lift that pin from the PCB. (In the K2.02 diagram I should find +5V in input not output)
I assumed it wasn't exactly the pic that was generating the problem, but by separating the switching board and the amplification board (they can be divided using screw terminals and a flat) and keeping them connected only through the flat, as soon as I apply a voltage on the REM, the amplifier starts and is no longer in protection.
I have a feeling that some RAIL voltage checking is done and for some reason it fails.
Does anyone have any idea how to test the microcontroller?
-
Poll
For Sale Chord Mojo Ribbon Electrostatic Perun Stax KGSSHV KSE1500 KSE1200 ATH-CK100PRO
- Swap Meet
- 0 Replies
Help correcting small peak in two ways crossover design!
- By manuz74
- Software Tools
- 16 Replies
Attachments
EL12n Push Pull amplifier
- By andyjevans
- Tubes / Valves
- 28 Replies
I'm just in the middle of this project, so this is a provisional schematic. I've done the output stage so far, which is as the schematic.
Input stage will be 6V6 in triode or 6AH4, whichever sounds better. Other tubes are possible, e.g. EL33 in triode. Needs a mu of around 8 or over. I originally planned a 2P29L or 112A input but ran out of room in the chassis.
The EL12n is an 18W dissipation tube with a mu of 18 in triode. The bias is low at around 10V so I used separate cathode resistors as suggested in the data. I don't know if 150R needs a cathode bypass but I've put in a DC Link one.
I was thinking 4V bias on the input tube to use a 220R resistor and avoid a bypass cap. This might be up for discussion.
Any suggestions and improvements very welcome.
Input stage will be 6V6 in triode or 6AH4, whichever sounds better. Other tubes are possible, e.g. EL33 in triode. Needs a mu of around 8 or over. I originally planned a 2P29L or 112A input but ran out of room in the chassis.
The EL12n is an 18W dissipation tube with a mu of 18 in triode. The bias is low at around 10V so I used separate cathode resistors as suggested in the data. I don't know if 150R needs a cathode bypass but I've put in a DC Link one.
I was thinking 4V bias on the input tube to use a 220R resistor and avoid a bypass cap. This might be up for discussion.
Any suggestions and improvements very welcome.
Can anybody find info this tuner/amp - It's a 2000!
- By Surtsey
- Solid State
- 5 Replies
Pre-millennium, every electronic device, sports car, & electric shaver had 2000 in the product name. I guess the marketing department thought it sounded cool. Realistic (Tandy) when nuts - they named everything a 2000.
As a result I can find nothing on this tuner / amp.
The System 2000: SA/ST-2000L
Anybody?
As a result I can find nothing on this tuner / amp.
The System 2000: SA/ST-2000L
Anybody?
For Sale PCBs for HAWK A18 special edition
PCB's for the Hawk A18 to be used with a higher supply voltage (up to 40V). In order to do this the original 78L and 79L regulators are replaced by descrete regulators that are very low noise and low drift.
This also enhances the dark background and precision of the DC and servo loop.
Due to an cancelled project by a client, I can offer these PCB's for a very low price: 3 euro each.
Send me a PM when interested.
This also enhances the dark background and precision of the DC and servo loop.
Due to an cancelled project by a client, I can offer these PCB's for a very low price: 3 euro each.
Send me a PM when interested.
B&K preamp design questions
- Analog Line Level
- 1 Replies
I was able to pick a nice B&K Pro 10 ( there is a PRO-10mc and also a Pro-10 MC-101 ) the one I got was the 1st version
It sounds amazing, but there zero information out there
There is 2 op amps, and the owner gave me the owners manual
What do you guys make of the design ?
It sounds amazing, but there zero information out there
There is 2 op amps, and the owner gave me the owners manual
What do you guys make of the design ?
CFS-W600 Japanese Service Manual
- By fardodreza
- Everything Else
- 0 Replies
Hello dear
Does anyone have the service manual of SONY CFS-W600 in Japanese language?
I need schematic diagrams only for radio board. ( tuner board ).
Please send me to my email address
fardodreza@gmail.com
Thank you.
Does anyone have the service manual of SONY CFS-W600 in Japanese language?
I need schematic diagrams only for radio board. ( tuner board ).
Please send me to my email address
fardodreza@gmail.com
Thank you.