FM in car radio won't find a channel, adding bluetooth and a mystery.
I have an 'old' radio in my truck (2001 ram) that won't find any stations, won't play stations manually tuned, and if saved in memory and retrieved will 'play' but be full of static. Its kinda unique, for whatever reason, as in i haven't seen a picture of another one on the internet so far (there is one craigslist post of the part number, but thats it). Plenty of other models of radios (i have 2 others) for the 'same truck' (anything from like 1970-2002, trucks, vans, durangos whatever), just not this particular one. I've been hoping to fix it, instead of just replace it, both because of the 1.5 din size and uniqueness and then stick a bluetooth module in the thing probably on the CD lines to modernize it just a tiny bit. Are there some tests i could do to narrow down the FM issues? I assume its not the truck, as i have 2 other radios I've stuck in the thing and both work just fine with the same hookup, one being as old and one being a tiny bit newer (and its taken a swim).
This is the face of the radio in question. Part number P82301040.
I replaced it with this one (from a donor truck) when the tuner originally died (its been a while). One day the volume knob died and this whole project got kicked in motion. Turns out a rotary encoder in it had the backing/detent disc shatter. Simple fix, right? Get another Alps EC11 encoder with a threaded body, 4mm slotted shaft 30mm long with button. Apparently this is not a thing that exists (anymore? or because the manufacturer bought so many they have a custom part?). So instead i got the cheapest 15 position 30 detent EC11 i could find and hoped for the best. Opened it up and took the disc, stuck it in the old body and it works fine. Sadly, this one was flooded at least once in my yard and the CD player doesn't work, even though it takes and ejects CDs, the CD motor spins when forced and the laser motor seeks if moved out of place. In practice it never spins up (wired in leads to spindle motor and checked) just throws an ERR and splits out the CD when you try to play. Since i had planned on intercepting the CD lines for the bluetooth thing this is also technically broken for me. And its ugly, though it was uglier. It had amber LEDs on the balance knobs. Those were just slotted in, so i removed those and its slightly less ugly now. But its also not unique... this seems to be one of the most normal radios for my truck (I think the version that looks like this but also has a cassette is the most normal one). So instead I still hope to fix my original radio.
Donor radio face, part number P04704373AE.
I kept looking all over for even a bad picture in a scrapyard of my radio on the hopes of just mixing parts to make one working one, still haven't seen another example in the wild. Its the internet, how can there be no other examples of this anywhere? Widening my search i came up with a few more radios with faces more like my original. Fairly common to see a cassette only version like this: Cassette only on Ebay. Then some more strange ones that don't appear on lists of radio options for my truck: No cassette only on Ebay. No CD only on Ebay. Weird stuff. But this last one, no CD but otherwise very similar face to mine also has an identical(?) plug layout, and i saw a cheap and clean one up for bid and got it on hopes of the board being a de-populated version of mine. No such luck there. Here is the clean face of my 'new' radio. Looks like its almost never been touched...
'New' radio, part number P04704360.
And now for the guts. The boards are very obviously quite different, but it does look like the tuner section is fairly similar. Maybe i can compare them to help find faults in mine? The new one does work in my truck, while the old still doesn't, Also note the date code, i assume, on the big chip at the bottom 95 48. Which is a bunch older than my 2001 truck. A big bunch. As far as i know its the original radio though. Original radio board with CD.
'New' radio without CD. Date code on its big, but different, chip is 94 52, so a fairly similar vintage. Also so darn clean. No idea what this is out of to be this clean.
But the cans are probably the same. So yay? Maybe? Or do the supporting tuned thingies need tweaking to make it work so its basically hopeless? Original can.
'New' can.
I have temporarily run out of knowledge though. I can do electronics to some extent, but i know nothing about voodoo, err radio. I do think that can has something to do with it. No idea if that is whats broken. So far testing voltages on the two boards seems close enough on all the pins of the cans that i would say it should work, if it works, or i'm not supposed to get voltage but something fancier and i don't have the tools to measure it.
I did have another thought here as i got the very clean 'new' radio. I don't actually care about the CD player. Only wanted it for the bluetooth module to splice into and play silent CDs with phone music instead. This is how i had read others having done it, either with cassette or CD. Seemed like a fun project to 'modernize' without actually going for a ugly modern 'solution'. But, would it be simple to splice into the AM source instead, before the mux which i assume is somewhere (haven't really gone down this path yet) either breaking the traces from the AM source completely or putting in some switch that does it. Then i could have the 'new' radio play FM normally and hit the AM/FM button would swap to bluetooth. I assume the board doesn't care what the source is doing on the AM side unlike the cassette/CD side, where if it doesn't play it won't stay on that input.
Fun little project so far even though i haven't done much.
This is the face of the radio in question. Part number P82301040.
I replaced it with this one (from a donor truck) when the tuner originally died (its been a while). One day the volume knob died and this whole project got kicked in motion. Turns out a rotary encoder in it had the backing/detent disc shatter. Simple fix, right? Get another Alps EC11 encoder with a threaded body, 4mm slotted shaft 30mm long with button. Apparently this is not a thing that exists (anymore? or because the manufacturer bought so many they have a custom part?). So instead i got the cheapest 15 position 30 detent EC11 i could find and hoped for the best. Opened it up and took the disc, stuck it in the old body and it works fine. Sadly, this one was flooded at least once in my yard and the CD player doesn't work, even though it takes and ejects CDs, the CD motor spins when forced and the laser motor seeks if moved out of place. In practice it never spins up (wired in leads to spindle motor and checked) just throws an ERR and splits out the CD when you try to play. Since i had planned on intercepting the CD lines for the bluetooth thing this is also technically broken for me. And its ugly, though it was uglier. It had amber LEDs on the balance knobs. Those were just slotted in, so i removed those and its slightly less ugly now. But its also not unique... this seems to be one of the most normal radios for my truck (I think the version that looks like this but also has a cassette is the most normal one). So instead I still hope to fix my original radio.
Donor radio face, part number P04704373AE.
I kept looking all over for even a bad picture in a scrapyard of my radio on the hopes of just mixing parts to make one working one, still haven't seen another example in the wild. Its the internet, how can there be no other examples of this anywhere? Widening my search i came up with a few more radios with faces more like my original. Fairly common to see a cassette only version like this: Cassette only on Ebay. Then some more strange ones that don't appear on lists of radio options for my truck: No cassette only on Ebay. No CD only on Ebay. Weird stuff. But this last one, no CD but otherwise very similar face to mine also has an identical(?) plug layout, and i saw a cheap and clean one up for bid and got it on hopes of the board being a de-populated version of mine. No such luck there. Here is the clean face of my 'new' radio. Looks like its almost never been touched...
'New' radio, part number P04704360.
And now for the guts. The boards are very obviously quite different, but it does look like the tuner section is fairly similar. Maybe i can compare them to help find faults in mine? The new one does work in my truck, while the old still doesn't, Also note the date code, i assume, on the big chip at the bottom 95 48. Which is a bunch older than my 2001 truck. A big bunch. As far as i know its the original radio though. Original radio board with CD.
'New' radio without CD. Date code on its big, but different, chip is 94 52, so a fairly similar vintage. Also so darn clean. No idea what this is out of to be this clean.
But the cans are probably the same. So yay? Maybe? Or do the supporting tuned thingies need tweaking to make it work so its basically hopeless? Original can.
'New' can.
I have temporarily run out of knowledge though. I can do electronics to some extent, but i know nothing about voodoo, err radio. I do think that can has something to do with it. No idea if that is whats broken. So far testing voltages on the two boards seems close enough on all the pins of the cans that i would say it should work, if it works, or i'm not supposed to get voltage but something fancier and i don't have the tools to measure it.
I did have another thought here as i got the very clean 'new' radio. I don't actually care about the CD player. Only wanted it for the bluetooth module to splice into and play silent CDs with phone music instead. This is how i had read others having done it, either with cassette or CD. Seemed like a fun project to 'modernize' without actually going for a ugly modern 'solution'. But, would it be simple to splice into the AM source instead, before the mux which i assume is somewhere (haven't really gone down this path yet) either breaking the traces from the AM source completely or putting in some switch that does it. Then i could have the 'new' radio play FM normally and hit the AM/FM button would swap to bluetooth. I assume the board doesn't care what the source is doing on the AM side unlike the cassette/CD side, where if it doesn't play it won't stay on that input.
Fun little project so far even though i haven't done much.
Driven Cascode Novelty Circuit
- By RCruz
- Solid State
- 52 Replies
Following my experiments with the modular power amp https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/rcp130-modular-lateral-mosfet-power-amplifier.368795/ where I gathered knowledge regarding several types of input stages I finally chose the mirror loaded complementary symmetrical IPS described here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/slone-amp-final-solution.379346/
When using a symmetrical complementary IPS loaded with mirrors we face ourselves with the typical problem: “the VAS input voltage is not defined by any reference voltage, so it depends on the VAS base current and the Early voltage of each transistor connected to that node, as well as the common mode offset current of the LTP.”
To circumvent this problem, I added a 1k resistor (R12) between the emitters of the top CM (Q10) and VAS bjt (Q3). Fig 1
Fig 1 (R12 action)
According to Keantoken, R12 works actively by converting the VAS and CM into a CCS (analogous to the standard 2Q CCS).
As I see it, the current in the CM is perfectly defined and produces a voltage drop across R2 (Q10 emitter degeneration 133ohm).
R12 transfers this voltage to the emitter of the VAS Q3 so a fixed current runs through its degeneration resistor R11.
NOTE: R12 can not be replicated in the lower VAS (Q5) because that way both positive and negative VAS would try to fix a current in the bias spreader and due to differences in NPN PNP transistors, the current would never be exactly equal… (Both VAS currents would fight each other).
As is, R12 fixes the current on the positive VAS and the negative VAS just follows as if loaded by a CCS.
Another benefit from this configuration is that OLG is not severely decreased as in the case where both VAS currents are regulated.
Lowering R12 value increases VAS current stability but lowers OLG. The 1kohm was chosen because it represents a good compromise between current steadiness and High OLG.
Fig 2 (New circuit OLG plot)
-------------------------------------- NOVELTY DRIVEN CASCODE ------------------------------------
I chose to cascode the input jfets because when the cascode is “Driven with output signal” it does minimize voltage fluctuations between the sources and drains of these JFETS.
This “constant voltage” approach can effectively reduce higher order harmonic distortions.
In my prototype, the voltage divider that sets the cascode base voltage Fig 3 (R37 R45) is modulated by input signal through the connection CCSP…. While this method works, there is always a small current diverted from the Jfet sources to the voltage divider and Input Jfets Vds is not really constant.
Fig 3 (Prototype driven cascode circuit)
In my new design Fig 4 I chose to drive the cascode bases through a NFB replica coming from the output signal.
In this case the negative feedback replica circuit (R59 R60) modulates both positive (Q7 Q8) and negative (Q12 Q13) cascodes, through the bases of the followers (Q19 Q20).
This way, by carefully choosing R60 value (1k98 ohm) I can stabilize the voltage between the Drains and Sources of the IPS JFETs.
Fig 4 (New Cascode drive circuit)
Looking at Fig 5 I placed two test points: JD on the Drain and JS on the source of input jfet J1.
When running the simulation, we see that JD sits at 9.572V and JS at 98.6mV
Plotting V(jd)-9.572 and V(js)-98.6mV we see clearly that both curves are coincident and by tuning R60 we can actually null the difference.
Here we see 542uV Vds voltage variation @ 1KHz 290W.
Fig 5 (Input Jfet Vds plot)
Viewing the results of the .four command Fig 6 (1Khz 290W), we observe that THD is minimized when both curves are coincident.
Fig 6 (1KHz 390W FFT)
I hope this new method gathers enough interest to produce a fruitful discussion on how to best “drive” both cascodes simultaneously.
To facilitate analysis I am including and .ASC file that can be used for testing.
All models are included in the .ASC file so it runs directly in LTSPICE.
This simulation is initially set to produce 300W into a load of 5ohm @ 20KHz
You can choose other values by modifying the values of:
.param power=300
.param freq 20k
.param rload=5
Control transient is:
.tran 0 {{delay}+(20/freq)} {delay} {timestep}
DISCLAIMER:
The present schematic must not be used for commercial purposes.
This is can only to be used as a DIY project.
When using a symmetrical complementary IPS loaded with mirrors we face ourselves with the typical problem: “the VAS input voltage is not defined by any reference voltage, so it depends on the VAS base current and the Early voltage of each transistor connected to that node, as well as the common mode offset current of the LTP.”
To circumvent this problem, I added a 1k resistor (R12) between the emitters of the top CM (Q10) and VAS bjt (Q3). Fig 1
Fig 1 (R12 action)
According to Keantoken, R12 works actively by converting the VAS and CM into a CCS (analogous to the standard 2Q CCS).
As I see it, the current in the CM is perfectly defined and produces a voltage drop across R2 (Q10 emitter degeneration 133ohm).
R12 transfers this voltage to the emitter of the VAS Q3 so a fixed current runs through its degeneration resistor R11.
NOTE: R12 can not be replicated in the lower VAS (Q5) because that way both positive and negative VAS would try to fix a current in the bias spreader and due to differences in NPN PNP transistors, the current would never be exactly equal… (Both VAS currents would fight each other).
As is, R12 fixes the current on the positive VAS and the negative VAS just follows as if loaded by a CCS.
Another benefit from this configuration is that OLG is not severely decreased as in the case where both VAS currents are regulated.
Lowering R12 value increases VAS current stability but lowers OLG. The 1kohm was chosen because it represents a good compromise between current steadiness and High OLG.
Fig 2 (New circuit OLG plot)
-------------------------------------- NOVELTY DRIVEN CASCODE ------------------------------------
I chose to cascode the input jfets because when the cascode is “Driven with output signal” it does minimize voltage fluctuations between the sources and drains of these JFETS.
This “constant voltage” approach can effectively reduce higher order harmonic distortions.
In my prototype, the voltage divider that sets the cascode base voltage Fig 3 (R37 R45) is modulated by input signal through the connection CCSP…. While this method works, there is always a small current diverted from the Jfet sources to the voltage divider and Input Jfets Vds is not really constant.
Fig 3 (Prototype driven cascode circuit)
In my new design Fig 4 I chose to drive the cascode bases through a NFB replica coming from the output signal.
In this case the negative feedback replica circuit (R59 R60) modulates both positive (Q7 Q8) and negative (Q12 Q13) cascodes, through the bases of the followers (Q19 Q20).
This way, by carefully choosing R60 value (1k98 ohm) I can stabilize the voltage between the Drains and Sources of the IPS JFETs.
Fig 4 (New Cascode drive circuit)
Looking at Fig 5 I placed two test points: JD on the Drain and JS on the source of input jfet J1.
When running the simulation, we see that JD sits at 9.572V and JS at 98.6mV
Plotting V(jd)-9.572 and V(js)-98.6mV we see clearly that both curves are coincident and by tuning R60 we can actually null the difference.
Here we see 542uV Vds voltage variation @ 1KHz 290W.
Fig 5 (Input Jfet Vds plot)
Viewing the results of the .four command Fig 6 (1Khz 290W), we observe that THD is minimized when both curves are coincident.
Fig 6 (1KHz 390W FFT)
I hope this new method gathers enough interest to produce a fruitful discussion on how to best “drive” both cascodes simultaneously.
To facilitate analysis I am including and .ASC file that can be used for testing.
All models are included in the .ASC file so it runs directly in LTSPICE.
This simulation is initially set to produce 300W into a load of 5ohm @ 20KHz
You can choose other values by modifying the values of:
.param power=300
.param freq 20k
.param rload=5
Control transient is:
.tran 0 {{delay}+(20/freq)} {delay} {timestep}
DISCLAIMER:
The present schematic must not be used for commercial purposes.
This is can only to be used as a DIY project.
Which model Sundown is this? Help!
- By BajaWhoops
- Car Audio
- 5 Replies
Need some help guys. I broke down this sub yrs ago & forgot what model its is. I've searched everywhere but cannot find a Sundown with this basket. It is possible it was swapped but wanted to check here first. It's a 12" with dual 2ohm coils. I need to recone it but dont know model or where to get recone kit. Any help would be much appreciated.
2.5 way Line Array. Will a common enclosure emulate a falling Q with rising frequency?
- By Gigapunk
- Planars & Exotics
- 4 Replies
I'm working on a line array design that will go behind an acoustically transparent projector screen. The original idea was to use six 6.5" drivers and six Neo8 planars. But modeling in WinISD, and test speakers showed more low-end drop off than I was hoping for. So now I am considering changing the design over to a 2.5-way design; running the six speakers directly behind the screen upto 550 Hz, and the speakers that would be behind or below the projector screen only upto 80 Hz; hoping that the omni nature of the lower frequencies will not give me horrible diffraction artifacts off the projector screen frame and any other gear that happens to be in front of the speaker.
I am leaning towards having all 12 of the 6.5" drivers share a common rear chamber tuned to Q=0.707. My thinking is that as the frequencies rise above 80 Hz that the effective Q of the enclosure will shrink (because the low frequency drivers will be 15 dB down above 200 Hz) - improving impulse response. Is this a bad idea? Do 2.5 way speakers need to have the low frequency driver(s) in their own enclosure for some reason?
For six of the 6.5" drivers:
Q 0.707 = 6627 in^3
Q 0.577 = 16,100 in ^3 Almost 3x the volume required!
I am leaning towards having all 12 of the 6.5" drivers share a common rear chamber tuned to Q=0.707. My thinking is that as the frequencies rise above 80 Hz that the effective Q of the enclosure will shrink (because the low frequency drivers will be 15 dB down above 200 Hz) - improving impulse response. Is this a bad idea? Do 2.5 way speakers need to have the low frequency driver(s) in their own enclosure for some reason?
For six of the 6.5" drivers:
Q 0.707 = 6627 in^3
Q 0.577 = 16,100 in ^3 Almost 3x the volume required!
Adcom GFP-750 Right Channel Issues
- By Jludowise
- Analog Line Level
- 0 Replies
I'm working on an upgrade modification for this GFP-750 preamp. Once the cap portion of the upgrade was installed, I noticed I had no right channel when the unit was out of passive mode. I've checked components, traces, solder joints, and voltages. Some of the voltages are off on the right channel, but I can't figure out what is causing them to be off. Any help would be appreciated.
For Sale Lowther PM2 - Brociner 4C Cabinet
Attachments
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Memphis Audio PR1X1000 CLASS D MONOBLOCK AMP PROTECT LIGHT WON'T GO AWAY!
- By Daemon-Kane
- Car Audio
- 1 Replies
Attachments
RFC PCB NAD 3020 inspired '1120' pre amp + hi level pre out
- By NPNL
- Analog Line Level
- 9 Replies
Attachments
Op amp for Bose 901 equalizer series IV
- By tortello77
- Analog Line Level
- 9 Replies
Hi All!!
I am trying to have some fun with op amp swapping with an old bose 901 equalizer series IV. I also have a series III which is fully discrete. The series IV euqualizer came with LF353, pretty bad. I mounted machined socket so I could swap them. I then installed RC4558, bad highs, super harsh. I moved to TL072, improved things, smoother, but loss of volume. Changed to NE5532, getting better. Do you have any other suggestion to mount a "better" opamp? I included schematics of one channel.
Thank you!!
I am trying to have some fun with op amp swapping with an old bose 901 equalizer series IV. I also have a series III which is fully discrete. The series IV euqualizer came with LF353, pretty bad. I mounted machined socket so I could swap them. I then installed RC4558, bad highs, super harsh. I moved to TL072, improved things, smoother, but loss of volume. Changed to NE5532, getting better. Do you have any other suggestion to mount a "better" opamp? I included schematics of one channel.
Thank you!!
ICE3B0365J Troubleshooting (W200 Sub)
- Power Supplies
- 3 Replies
Hello all.
I am currently trying to troubleshoot and repair a W200 Sub as a personal project/learning and it seems to have gone a bit beyond my circuit knowledge having exhausted most of the obvious testing (attached images blue=tested, yellow=replaced). A repair had been attempted by a family member prior and some of the tracers damaged so I had to repair them first.
The board is a 104-A05426B00V-E and is an ICE3B0365J chip, and after finding the chip datasheet have gotten the following readings;
1.SoftS - Unreadable (fluctuating)
2.FB - 473mV
3.CS - 0
4.Drain - 330V
5.Drain - 330V
6.n.c. - 110mV (fuctuating)
7.VCC - 15V (fluctuating)
8.GND - 0
I vaguely understand what each pin is for, but I'm not sure what values I should be expecting in order to trace where any extra voltage is being lost, or being gained. I am assuming the Feedback voltage is too low so it is cycling restart, but I might be misunderstanding the datasheet. The transformer secondary is not receiving any voltage at all which I assume is due to the VCC not being stable.
Any insight into this would be very much appreciated.
I am currently trying to troubleshoot and repair a W200 Sub as a personal project/learning and it seems to have gone a bit beyond my circuit knowledge having exhausted most of the obvious testing (attached images blue=tested, yellow=replaced). A repair had been attempted by a family member prior and some of the tracers damaged so I had to repair them first.
The board is a 104-A05426B00V-E and is an ICE3B0365J chip, and after finding the chip datasheet have gotten the following readings;
1.SoftS - Unreadable (fluctuating)
2.FB - 473mV
3.CS - 0
4.Drain - 330V
5.Drain - 330V
6.n.c. - 110mV (fuctuating)
7.VCC - 15V (fluctuating)
8.GND - 0
I vaguely understand what each pin is for, but I'm not sure what values I should be expecting in order to trace where any extra voltage is being lost, or being gained. I am assuming the Feedback voltage is too low so it is cycling restart, but I might be misunderstanding the datasheet. The transformer secondary is not receiving any voltage at all which I assume is due to the VCC not being stable.
Any insight into this would be very much appreciated.
What is 6J trandito SMD
- By Toanhp
- Analog Line Level
- 4 Replies
XHello everyone. Can anyone help me look up SMD components with code 6J as shown in the picture. This smd trandito is in the DAC circuit of the Marantz 6007 CD. Does anyone have the service manual for me, please?
Help identify Motorola transistor
Hello I been going through some bags of parts and found this bag with approximately 200 transistors, all new, but what are they?
For Sale TDA1541A DAC D/A Converter NOS Module Replaces SAA7220B Filter
- By bigskyaudio
- Swap Meet
- 2 Replies
Attachments
How to Make a Code for R2A15218FP
HELLO........I HAVE A AUDIO PROCESSOR NAME:-R2A15218FP RENESAS AUDIO PROCESSOR--[8 CHANNEL ] AUDIO PROCESSOR.......ACTUALLY IT DOSENT HAVE ANY DATASHEET TO MAKE A CODE FOR THAT AUDIO PROCESSOR.......................................................IS IT POSSIBLE TO MAKE A CODE FOR ARDUINO..............................PLEASE I AM TRYING A LOT TO DO THAT PROJECT........I WANT HELP.........CAN YOU HELP ME...... AND I FOUND A LITTLE ABOUT FEAUTRES FOR THAT PROCESSOR DATASHEET
PPI Pro mos 50/Sedona/MTX Terminator MTA250 5 pin Molex plug sucks, any better solution for replacement?
This same plug is on the MTX Terminator 250. Made by PPI. I have one and love it and still use it in my vehicle, running 400 watts mono into two subs. THe issues the that amp and this one is that samn Molex connector for the speaker wire, etc. Is there now a better way to replace that? Mine is sporadic and i temporarily fixed it by putting a nickle squeezed in beside the plug and working so far )this put the needed pressure on the plug I guess.
What's the easiest way to replace this today? 5-way binding post? What will work?
What's the easiest way to replace this today? 5-way binding post? What will work?
Thiele Small Parameter like Focal Audiom 15AX from currently available
- Subwoofers
- 9 Replies
Attachments
FS: 2 FOCAL Audiom 15AX 15" efficient woofers
- By makingmoney
- Swap Meet
- 17 Replies
One pair. 15 years old. Used. And one is reconed by Kimon Belles of Focal 12 years ago.
Rims are a little beat but everything seems to work and sound fine.
95.5 dB/W/m
Nominal Imp: 8ohms
DC resistance 6ohms
$399 plus shipping. Paypal only. Thanks
Rims are a little beat but everything seems to work and sound fine.
95.5 dB/W/m
Nominal Imp: 8ohms
DC resistance 6ohms
$399 plus shipping. Paypal only. Thanks
![PXL_20230509_130352503[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/1080/1080458-5a7bfee7c39022c1609a6b6ec8c9b978.jpg?hash=Wnv-58OQIs)
![PXL_20230509_130446874[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/1080/1080459-e51e3ae6081938da52aca9b02fd0ff8b.jpg?hash=5R465ggZON)
First DIY ported sub need help with port
- By HighFutility
- Subwoofers
- 32 Replies
Hello all, I will attempt a ported sub after successfully building my first sealed sub.
My driver of choice is the Dayton Max X 10-inch. Link: https://www.daytonaudio.com/product...-high-excursion-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil
Power will be supplied via Crown XLS 1502.
I will build the box on Dayton's recommendations of 1.1 cubic feet with a tuning frequency of 28-29hz. Currently, I am having trouble figuring appropriate port configuration.
In WinISD port length is 36 inches when the port area is 4 inches tube, with 24m/s air velocity. Or 46 inches when its a 4 x 4 (16 inch) slot; however it's 46 inches in length. I would have to do a lot of folds just to get that to fit. Then my volume would shrink, so I would need an even bigger box than what Subbox Pro is suggesting.
Using sub box. pro my port is always outside the box. I input the driver as taking up 0.1ft3
The issue is the port is stupidly long, with a port velocity of 28 m/s, regardless if it's a slot port or a tube port. My use case is music, so I would like to keep this at a safe level and not have any amount of chuff or distortion, or audible noise. What Can I do to rectify this situation? I am not well-versed in how certain parameters affect others.
It almost seems that the subwoofer cannot be built due to the required port lengths. I have not even added any bracing yet. Is there a software that works better than box pro that is free so I can visualize it? Would be nice if Subox automatically increased my box size to keep the 1.1 interval volume.
Thank you in advance.
My driver of choice is the Dayton Max X 10-inch. Link: https://www.daytonaudio.com/product...-high-excursion-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil
Power will be supplied via Crown XLS 1502.
I will build the box on Dayton's recommendations of 1.1 cubic feet with a tuning frequency of 28-29hz. Currently, I am having trouble figuring appropriate port configuration.
In WinISD port length is 36 inches when the port area is 4 inches tube, with 24m/s air velocity. Or 46 inches when its a 4 x 4 (16 inch) slot; however it's 46 inches in length. I would have to do a lot of folds just to get that to fit. Then my volume would shrink, so I would need an even bigger box than what Subbox Pro is suggesting.
Using sub box. pro my port is always outside the box. I input the driver as taking up 0.1ft3
The issue is the port is stupidly long, with a port velocity of 28 m/s, regardless if it's a slot port or a tube port. My use case is music, so I would like to keep this at a safe level and not have any amount of chuff or distortion, or audible noise. What Can I do to rectify this situation? I am not well-versed in how certain parameters affect others.
It almost seems that the subwoofer cannot be built due to the required port lengths. I have not even added any bracing yet. Is there a software that works better than box pro that is free so I can visualize it? Would be nice if Subox automatically increased my box size to keep the 1.1 interval volume.
Thank you in advance.
MX50 SE New Version ??
- By a1095us
- Solid State
- 5 Replies
I just received a pair of MX50 SE complete boards. Al info and pictures I have found on the Net show the usual versions with 669 a 649 drivers. The pcb heatsink shows the 3 drivers.
The one I received has substituted 2 2sa1704's and a 2sc2803. Also, the emitter resistors are .1 ohm verses the usual.22 ohm. 5551 and 5401 are also replace the BC556 and BC546 in the drive stage. The 1704's and 2803 are mounted a bit differently than the 669 / 649 drivers indicating a slight change to the pcb. layout.
I'm just wondering if this is a latest version or older. What I received is not what was pictured in the Ebay listing.
With that said... I tested both boards with 36V DC rails and they both looked great up to clipping at about 55 wrms. They both ran cool with DC balance less than 5mv both channels.
I can't seem to find (on the net) a schematic indicating the use of the 2sa1704 or 2sc2803. I have included what I received and the usual suspects from Ebay.
Pic 2 is the pcb I received and Pic 3 is the Ebay listing.
The one I received has substituted 2 2sa1704's and a 2sc2803. Also, the emitter resistors are .1 ohm verses the usual.22 ohm. 5551 and 5401 are also replace the BC556 and BC546 in the drive stage. The 1704's and 2803 are mounted a bit differently than the 669 / 649 drivers indicating a slight change to the pcb. layout.
I'm just wondering if this is a latest version or older. What I received is not what was pictured in the Ebay listing.
With that said... I tested both boards with 36V DC rails and they both looked great up to clipping at about 55 wrms. They both ran cool with DC balance less than 5mv both channels.
I can't seem to find (on the net) a schematic indicating the use of the 2sa1704 or 2sc2803. I have included what I received and the usual suspects from Ebay.
Pic 2 is the pcb I received and Pic 3 is the Ebay listing.
My First Crossover, 2-Way w/ VituixCAD
- Multi-Way
- 33 Replies
This is my first attempt at designing a 2-way crossover and I don't know if I did it correctly. Please offer advice on errors or better crossover strategies. It isn't passive because I don't have proper testing equipment, passive components, or any experience working with passive crossovers. My intent is to put this crossover into Equalizer APO so I can see what it sounds like before trying to design a passive version.
I used VituixCAD but I didn't have an XLR mic with external sound card. I had to measure using a USB microphone and REW's "Use Acoustic Timing Reference" option. Measurements were taken outside on a 7 foot scaffolding with a 3 foot extension on a turntable = 10 feet total. The photos are vertical measurements, with the acoustic timing source to the right of the measured 2-way speaker.
This is a freestanding ATH waveguide speaker: 46 degree half angle, 8.7 inches (222mm) axisymmetric, B&C DE111 compression driver. Waveguide can be lowered and raised to adjust center to center distance. It can also be moved forward. At present, it is flush with the front of the woofer box which is a 9x9 inch (228 mm) O.D. cube with an 8 inch Dayton DC200-8 classic woofer. I cut off the low end output of the woofer just to prevent confusion from the lower frequency measurements. I'll eliminate the LF cutoff from the APO crossover and let the woofer naturally roll off to wherever it decides to go. Woofer box is closed, no port.
My design process was to 1) smooth both driver responses to 12 dB then use Optimizer "Axial Response of Driver" to create a transfer function file to flatten each driver, 2) add the amplifiers, and 2) add a 47uf capacitor in front of the tweeter as protection against accidentally sending full signal.
My REW measurements did not reach 80dB across all frequencies so I flattened them to 70dB then raised them to 80dB in the Drivers tab to make it easier to see the report results. I don't know if that was the right way to do it. Further, the woofer was measured at -10dB in REW and I reduced the tweeter to -20dB because the tweeter was way too loud to shoot around the neighborhood. Same amplifier level but lower dB in REW.
Please let me know if you see any red flags with my measurement and crossover process that destroyed any chance of getting a useful simulation from VituixCAD, thank you. I have included the VCAD files in a Zip folder. I can supply the original ungated REW file measurements if it will help. Also, I did not do a near field measurement/merge of the woofer because I was only interested in learning how to use the program. I don't know if that ruined the crossover design process. Thanks
I used VituixCAD but I didn't have an XLR mic with external sound card. I had to measure using a USB microphone and REW's "Use Acoustic Timing Reference" option. Measurements were taken outside on a 7 foot scaffolding with a 3 foot extension on a turntable = 10 feet total. The photos are vertical measurements, with the acoustic timing source to the right of the measured 2-way speaker.
This is a freestanding ATH waveguide speaker: 46 degree half angle, 8.7 inches (222mm) axisymmetric, B&C DE111 compression driver. Waveguide can be lowered and raised to adjust center to center distance. It can also be moved forward. At present, it is flush with the front of the woofer box which is a 9x9 inch (228 mm) O.D. cube with an 8 inch Dayton DC200-8 classic woofer. I cut off the low end output of the woofer just to prevent confusion from the lower frequency measurements. I'll eliminate the LF cutoff from the APO crossover and let the woofer naturally roll off to wherever it decides to go. Woofer box is closed, no port.
My design process was to 1) smooth both driver responses to 12 dB then use Optimizer "Axial Response of Driver" to create a transfer function file to flatten each driver, 2) add the amplifiers, and 2) add a 47uf capacitor in front of the tweeter as protection against accidentally sending full signal.
My REW measurements did not reach 80dB across all frequencies so I flattened them to 70dB then raised them to 80dB in the Drivers tab to make it easier to see the report results. I don't know if that was the right way to do it. Further, the woofer was measured at -10dB in REW and I reduced the tweeter to -20dB because the tweeter was way too loud to shoot around the neighborhood. Same amplifier level but lower dB in REW.
Please let me know if you see any red flags with my measurement and crossover process that destroyed any chance of getting a useful simulation from VituixCAD, thank you. I have included the VCAD files in a Zip folder. I can supply the original ungated REW file measurements if it will help. Also, I did not do a near field measurement/merge of the woofer because I was only interested in learning how to use the program. I don't know if that ruined the crossover design process. Thanks
Just finished my CSS Criton 2TD-X Towers...in solid mahogany
I’m excited that – finally! – I’ve completed my Criton 2TD-X Towers build. After I’d built a pair of 2TD-X MTM standmounts from the flatpack more than two years ago, I decided that I wanted to build the tower version, but I wanted to build them from solid hardwood as a “legacy” project. I spoke with a number of people about the challenges of building from solid wood rather than plywood or MDF, and people like Lou Hinkley of Daedalus Audio convinced me that it can work, as long as the right wood is used, along with good woodworking technique and appropriate bracing.
I settled on quartersawn African mahogany, which is a very stable species, and I recruited a skilled friend with an excellent wood shop to help.
Here’s a summary of what we did:
We used kiln-dried quartersawn African mahogany in sufficient board widths to avoid main panel glue-ups.
We planed and jointed all boards to ensure uniformity and good fits.
We cut box joints to join the tops and bottoms with the sides.
We mounted the back panel in a rabbet.
We installed a 18mm Baltic birch inner baffle in a dado behind the front mahogany baffle.
We glued and screwed the front mahogany baffle to the inner ply baffle, setting it in the recess between the side panels, tops, and bottoms.
We used 18mm Baltic birch for the interior braces
We routed a 2” radius roundover on the top, bottom, and side edges of the front baffle.
We lined the cabinet side walls with GR-Research’s No Rez foam.
We built the crossover from CSS' upgraded component list, with Erse Perfect Lay air core inductors, Mills resistors, and Jantzen Superior caps.
We used Neotech 22 AWG solid-core silver wire from the crossovers to the tweeters.
We used Neotech 16 AWG solid-core copper wire from the crossovers to the midwoofers.
We used Dayton Audio aluminum panels with cutouts for two pairs of binding posts, then installed a pair of Electra Cable tube connectors and a pair of high-quality gold-plated binding posts in each one, with the tube connectors and the binding posts jumpered together (the input wiring from the crossovers is Cardas 101 speaker cable directly into the tube connectors, which are the primary connection point).
We installed flanged screw inserts to accommodate IsoAcoustics Gaia II isolation feet (which sit on their spiked carpet disks).
We finished the cabinets in Odie’s Dark Oil and Odie’s Dark Wood Butter.
The reason I added both the Electra Cable tube connectors and the traditional binding posts to the input panel is that while my present cables are terminated with tube connectors, any other speaker cable I’m likely to use will probably have banana plugs or another more traditional connector, so I wanted to be able to accommodate them.
They've only been complete for about four days, but I'm very happy with the pristine, airy sound and precise imaging, together with an excellent low end. I’ve been enjoying high-end audio for nearly five decades, and these are the first speakers I’ve loved more than my original Martin Logan CLS electrostatics!
I settled on quartersawn African mahogany, which is a very stable species, and I recruited a skilled friend with an excellent wood shop to help.
Here’s a summary of what we did:
We used kiln-dried quartersawn African mahogany in sufficient board widths to avoid main panel glue-ups.
We planed and jointed all boards to ensure uniformity and good fits.
We cut box joints to join the tops and bottoms with the sides.
We mounted the back panel in a rabbet.
We installed a 18mm Baltic birch inner baffle in a dado behind the front mahogany baffle.
We glued and screwed the front mahogany baffle to the inner ply baffle, setting it in the recess between the side panels, tops, and bottoms.
We used 18mm Baltic birch for the interior braces
We routed a 2” radius roundover on the top, bottom, and side edges of the front baffle.
We lined the cabinet side walls with GR-Research’s No Rez foam.
We built the crossover from CSS' upgraded component list, with Erse Perfect Lay air core inductors, Mills resistors, and Jantzen Superior caps.
We used Neotech 22 AWG solid-core silver wire from the crossovers to the tweeters.
We used Neotech 16 AWG solid-core copper wire from the crossovers to the midwoofers.
We used Dayton Audio aluminum panels with cutouts for two pairs of binding posts, then installed a pair of Electra Cable tube connectors and a pair of high-quality gold-plated binding posts in each one, with the tube connectors and the binding posts jumpered together (the input wiring from the crossovers is Cardas 101 speaker cable directly into the tube connectors, which are the primary connection point).
We installed flanged screw inserts to accommodate IsoAcoustics Gaia II isolation feet (which sit on their spiked carpet disks).
We finished the cabinets in Odie’s Dark Oil and Odie’s Dark Wood Butter.
The reason I added both the Electra Cable tube connectors and the traditional binding posts to the input panel is that while my present cables are terminated with tube connectors, any other speaker cable I’m likely to use will probably have banana plugs or another more traditional connector, so I wanted to be able to accommodate them.
They've only been complete for about four days, but I'm very happy with the pristine, airy sound and precise imaging, together with an excellent low end. I’ve been enjoying high-end audio for nearly five decades, and these are the first speakers I’ve loved more than my original Martin Logan CLS electrostatics!
Attachments
LLC Resonant supply questions
- By dch53
- Power Supplies
- 6 Replies
I’m using one of these LLC resonant supplies in a tube amp I’m building. It provides
My requirements are well within the supply’s specs even with a 50% derating and it bench tests fine with the loads I need.
I’ve read lots about LLC resonant supplies because they’re fascinating, I want to make some minor mods and I may need to make repairs or improvements if the supply proves unreliable.
I’ve reverse-engineered a schematic for everything but the controller which is on a daughter-board with an opaque coating. Based on all the application notes I’ve read I’m betting it has an L6599 on it.
I may have read lots but I’m still a hobbyist not an electronics engineer. So, I’m hoping someone can help me with some questions.
Each of the outputs looks like this:
What are the parallel resistor and capacitor from the negative terminals to chassis for?
All of the negative terminals will be connected to ground anyway shorting out the parallel resistor and capacitor.
The HT supply looks like this:
I’m guessing that as the output voltage changes the string of diodes (probably zeners) varies the voltages across the optocoupler diodes. The other side of the optocouplers disappears into the mystery controller board.
Why are there 2 optocouplers?
The specs state that the voltage is customisable between 220V and 520V. The jumpers are only giving me 400V, 410V or 420V. I specified 420V to the seller so that’s OK.
However, if I were to need some other voltage, what changes would be required? Swap out the zeners for ones with different voltages?
Finally, I was hoping to use the AC that becomes DC3 (supposed to be good for 50mA) straight off the secondary of the transformer. The requirement is only for 5mA or so.
When I try putting a 2k2 resistor or my planned load across the secondary, I get 0VAC and no DC3 output voltage. Any idea why that might be please?
Thanks, Dave.
- HT: 200V to 520V 300W maximum.
- DC1 and DC2: 2.5V-6.5V adjustable 15W peak 7.5A.
- DC3: fixed output 2.5V-15V, customizable, maximum 10W (not sure how it can be both fixed and customisable!)
- DC4: -10V to -120V 50mA maximum
My requirements are well within the supply’s specs even with a 50% derating and it bench tests fine with the loads I need.
I’ve read lots about LLC resonant supplies because they’re fascinating, I want to make some minor mods and I may need to make repairs or improvements if the supply proves unreliable.
I’ve reverse-engineered a schematic for everything but the controller which is on a daughter-board with an opaque coating. Based on all the application notes I’ve read I’m betting it has an L6599 on it.
I may have read lots but I’m still a hobbyist not an electronics engineer. So, I’m hoping someone can help me with some questions.
Each of the outputs looks like this:
What are the parallel resistor and capacitor from the negative terminals to chassis for?
All of the negative terminals will be connected to ground anyway shorting out the parallel resistor and capacitor.
The HT supply looks like this:
I’m guessing that as the output voltage changes the string of diodes (probably zeners) varies the voltages across the optocoupler diodes. The other side of the optocouplers disappears into the mystery controller board.
Why are there 2 optocouplers?
The specs state that the voltage is customisable between 220V and 520V. The jumpers are only giving me 400V, 410V or 420V. I specified 420V to the seller so that’s OK.
However, if I were to need some other voltage, what changes would be required? Swap out the zeners for ones with different voltages?
Finally, I was hoping to use the AC that becomes DC3 (supposed to be good for 50mA) straight off the secondary of the transformer. The requirement is only for 5mA or so.
When I try putting a 2k2 resistor or my planned load across the secondary, I get 0VAC and no DC3 output voltage. Any idea why that might be please?
Thanks, Dave.
A record-collecting book I think everyone should read...
- Music
- 0 Replies
Michael Fremer's "Tracking Angle" has put up Installment #3 of my ongoing series about great books about the history of records and of the record business.
#3 is probably the highest recommendation I gave, Amanda Petrusich's Odyssey of collecting 78 rpm Blues records. I quote myself, under Fair Use:
START:
Supposedly, in order to sell a producer on your idea for a movie, you have to be able to explain the plot setup in no more than five words. One real-life example being, "Episcopal Priest Inherits Topless Bar." Really. The five-word movie pitch for Do Not Sell at Any Price might be "Rock Chick Hunts Blues 78rpms."
In the case of Amanda Petrusich, "hunt" is not a mere figure of speech. Ms. Petrusich was sucked so deeply into the vortex occupied by obsessive collectors of 78rpm Blues records (the title comes from a note she saw attached to one ultra-rare 78), that, despite her claustrophobia, she took scuba-diving lessons.
That was so that she could conduct her own underwater search of a river bed in Wisconsin. Why? Supposedly the P.O.'ed employees of Paramount Records, when the business shut down, had thrown the production stampers into the river. If that label name rings a bell, that might be because contemporary musician Jack White organized the reissue of most of the Paramount catalog in the famous "Paramount Suitcase" projects.
END
While you are at The Tracking Angle, please check out MF's review of the Meitner optical cartridge phono stage. Perhaps not so much for the phono stage, as MF's complete explanation of how the Microgrove LP encode-decode system (which "Turns Over" from Constant Amplitude to Constant Velocity) works.
That is what enables LPs simultaneously to encode a High E with a wavelength of 10 inches, and a Low E with a wavelength of 27 feet.
john
#3 is probably the highest recommendation I gave, Amanda Petrusich's Odyssey of collecting 78 rpm Blues records. I quote myself, under Fair Use:
START:
Supposedly, in order to sell a producer on your idea for a movie, you have to be able to explain the plot setup in no more than five words. One real-life example being, "Episcopal Priest Inherits Topless Bar." Really. The five-word movie pitch for Do Not Sell at Any Price might be "Rock Chick Hunts Blues 78rpms."
In the case of Amanda Petrusich, "hunt" is not a mere figure of speech. Ms. Petrusich was sucked so deeply into the vortex occupied by obsessive collectors of 78rpm Blues records (the title comes from a note she saw attached to one ultra-rare 78), that, despite her claustrophobia, she took scuba-diving lessons.
That was so that she could conduct her own underwater search of a river bed in Wisconsin. Why? Supposedly the P.O.'ed employees of Paramount Records, when the business shut down, had thrown the production stampers into the river. If that label name rings a bell, that might be because contemporary musician Jack White organized the reissue of most of the Paramount catalog in the famous "Paramount Suitcase" projects.
END
While you are at The Tracking Angle, please check out MF's review of the Meitner optical cartridge phono stage. Perhaps not so much for the phono stage, as MF's complete explanation of how the Microgrove LP encode-decode system (which "Turns Over" from Constant Amplitude to Constant Velocity) works.
That is what enables LPs simultaneously to encode a High E with a wavelength of 10 inches, and a Low E with a wavelength of 27 feet.
john
More reliable Upgrade for StBy Control Section in Yamaha's RX-N600 Receiver
- Solid State
- 1 Replies
Attachments
Help to find part number of potentiometers for Aura VA 100 and Musical Fidelity A120
Hi,
I have 2 amps, Aura VA 100 and Musical Fidelity A120, their potentiometers both are needed to be replaced, but i dont know how to find their parts since i dont know their specs.
Can you pls help me to identify those parts so i can purchase them?
Thanks and best regards
Anh
I have 2 amps, Aura VA 100 and Musical Fidelity A120, their potentiometers both are needed to be replaced, but i dont know how to find their parts since i dont know their specs.
Can you pls help me to identify those parts so i can purchase them?
Thanks and best regards
Anh