Does anyone know the part # for this resistor ?
Thanks.

Used in various cd players like Copland/Teac (possible others).

I want to get a Cronus Magnum. However, my speakers (Vandersteen Quatro) require a high-pass filter inserted between the pre and power amp stages. They provide an inline RCA filter, but that wont work for an integrated. I know it's possible in theory to add such a filter internally to an integrated amp, but without a schematic, I don't know where I would insert it.

Hi,
I'm new here and I've only ever built guitar amps... probably close to 20 of them or so now. But don't have the money or time for that much anymore.
But I would really like to build a tube Headphone amp to power my 250 ohm DT-990 headphones that I use at my home computer desk. I would also like the option of using it in the signal path between my DAC and little Fosi TB10D desktop speaker amp as well. Even though someday when I can afford it, I'd like to build a full Tube stereo amp, I think I should be able to build an OTL headphone amp for now since I need to drive higher impedance cans.
The crack is intriguing and the Xduo TA-26s caught my attention with all it's rave reviews as well.
Does anybody have more informatiion on either of those as far as an appropriate PT or schematics? I've seen some variations of schematics for the Darkvoice which is similar (but not as well-liked).
It seems like I'm looking to get maybe around +135VDC after the bridge rectifier and +115VDC on the plate of that 6AS7 tube plates.
Any thoughts or experience in this general area would be appreciated!
The Crack style of build seems to be what I'm after (just on terminal strips) , but I think I have enough spare parts around that I don't want to buy the kit just for the PT.
Thanks so much!

I have 2 new PCM63P to PCM1704 adapter modules available. They have never been used or soldered in any way. Purchased from ASE Audio-Tuning in Germany some years ago. The 1704s were sourced from Pioneer and have an in-house marking of '1' on them which ASE told me is 'K' grade.

$200 plus $16 USPS Priority Mail shipping with money order. PayPal accepted with additional $6.76 fee they charge.

Sold "as-is" and no warranty is expressed or implied. No returns or refunds. Sells and ships to USA residents only.

Im looking to identify some components on the pc board of a rockford fosgate P8002 amplifier

My design with Magnetics mpp cores, and onsemi sic devices. No active clamp , single switch flyback.
For ev. Charger or class td or classd amps

10kw flyback with %95 efficent - YouTube

Hello. I just have a question that's made no sense to me for a while.

If I have a 6k amp that states it'll output 3.1k @ 4Ohms per channel. I can daisy chain 2 x 8Ohm speakers with a power rating of 1500wrms, per side. If I have 2 of these amps. They will each output 1.6k into 8Ohms. So I can still run the same 4 speakers, except I am using 2 amps to do the same job. My question is, does using the 2 amps reduce any load on the amps as oppose to one doing that job? Because it seems strange to me that at the end you would end up with the same sound output. Surely if 2 amps share the job there must be some reduction in load. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks.

Neil.

Found a pair of good quality KT88 SE pcbs when have a sort through my boxes of parts. No documentation but you'll be able figure it out!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285434761261

Also added a pair of 12AX7 Sovtek triodes which may suit the board and of course, other power valves could be used.

My current project...

Soft-start module --> 800VA transformer --> custom rectifier board with 45,000uF of capacitance per rail bipolar power supply.

Hi guys, this is what WinISD is giving me



Here are the specs:
https://www.daytonaudio.com/images/resources/295-166--dayton-audio-mx12-22-spec-sheet.pdf

I triple checked, and it doesn't seem to work. If I force the Mms and Cms I get an integrity error.
Worked great for the 15-22.

Thanks!

To measure noise levels of PC cases and fans from 150hz 😱

Maybe they'd rent it out for local speaker builders?

Login to view embedded media

Hi,

On the subject of changing the feedback circuit responsible for RIAA, I am actually thinking about increasing gain of my phono stage by altering some of the resistors in this circuit.

Can I alter any of these feedback resistors here and just change the gain, not spoiling the RIAA equalisation?

I have 3 x PCM63J used, all same dates and 1 x PCM63K new,for sale.

$100/pcs for PCM63J

$120 for PCM63K

PayPal. Family and friends. Shipping at cost. (Registered shipping $25)

R

Used but top condition. This are big and heavy caps. Price is half of new. 60 euro pair plus shipping.

Good day guys, does anyone knows what are the original values for this amp gate resistors in conjunction with power fets HUF75339P.
Also does anyone has a service manual in whole or part can spare?

Two Intact Audio filament supply 2A modules.
I bought them new from Intact Audio. I installed RC snubbers already. These modules were installed in a DIY project briefly. Working fine without any issue.

Specs are as follows:

https://intactaudio.com/fil.html

Ask: $150 + shipping (from MD 20854, USA)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285432925298

Gold pin version, NOS never used.
6N1Ps are Watford Valves Cryo version
The Ecc82 are also unused.

I have for sale a pair of AD1862N-D DAC Chips. They were pulled from Denon CD Player. 100% authentic and in working condition. This is a special selection of AD1862 which were manufactured fro Denon.
Price is 100$ for the pair plus the shipping. Shipping to USA and Canada .

Also posted on AK.

Firstly, I have re-used the mica/thermal paste insulators without success and now have sil pads in place - also without success. So I do not believe that is the issue.

Over the past two years I have picked away at problems with this receiver, including this one, numerous times. During that time, I think I corrected the other shortcomings but this one persists.

There is continuity between the case of TO3 output transistors and chassis ground when the mounting screws are in place, They are snug but not tight. At the moment, that continuity exists on the two TO3 in the center of the photo. Removing the mounting screws of those two middle transistors eliminates continuity. Even though mounting screws are in place, there is no continuity from either TO3 transistor at each end of the row.

To me the fault would seem to be the plastic insulators used with the TO3's mounting screws. Some of the original insulators were salvageable and some were not. I have tried substitutes including small pieces of shrink tubing (as in the last photo) but so far nothing has worked to eliminate continuity with all of the TO3 output transistors when mounting screws are in place.

I have run out of inspiration so my question is....has anyone here needed to fabricate such an insulator and if so, what did you use?

Or, is there an online source for them and what are they called?

Yes, the trace side is messy and I will clean up the flux if/when I am done unsoldering/re-soldering.

EDIT: I suspect that this short of collector to base is why I cannot adjust idle current on either channel.

A quad of AD1862N-J chips for sale at 158 USD ,shipping ( registered + tracking ) is included.
Paypal FF only please. Check all my past sales records for reference. All buyers know i pack very well and provide proper updates.
Shipping from Singapore.

This project started as a three way speaker using some Audax drivers I had. I built a test box and was completely disappointed with the results so I ended giving the drivers away. While working on this design I looked at a lot of tweeters and ended up thinking the ScanSpeak H2606 might work well in a two way with the Audax HM170Z0 woofers I had. Eventfully I settled on the Dayton RS180P-4 with a paper cone, the breakup wasn’t too bad and it had decent sensitivity to match the tweeter.

This is the original thread.

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ential-3-way-using-some-older-drivers.398375/

Design Goals


1. Design a stand mount speaker with the potential to play 2 channel music without a sub-woofer

2. Try to use drivers in my inventory

3. Use materials in my inventory

4. Keep costs to a minimum

Plans and more detailed information can be found on the website.

https://www.bellarossafabrica.net/brf-27b

I am in need of 2 play heads for a Teac A-4070. The original heads are ferrite 50667300 but I really don't mind, or maybe prefer, non-ferite heads.

I found a pair of NOS erase/record heads. Now I just need play heads, I tried Nortronics heads but the frequency response what not good enough.

Most of the Teac play only heads from that era will work, like 53783007 or 53783029 and others.

Anyone here know where I may find any or does anyone know where I can get specs on Teac open reel heads?

Thanks

Hi

Somehow i f.. up my NAD 218 THX.

little over 1 year ago i changed all caps in the psu, right and left Amp and in the input.
I turned it on and a spart came flying out of the amp.
Little scared i tried turning it on again and no sparks, connected some speakers but i didnt feel that the sound levels / details was the same in buth speakers.
i left the amp under the bed untiul 2 weeks ago.

I have disassembled the amp and visualy checked all components and solder and dont find any problems.

after putting it together again the amp "powers on" (led is on) but the relays dont "click"

so basicly the amp is dead.

any ideas ?

Thomas

SOLD

A pair of PCM63P-J for sale. DAC chips only, no other items is including in this sales.
These are de-soldered carefully from working equipment board upon request using professional de-soldering station.
The pins are full length, sharp points at tip and beautifully preserved. And most importantly, they work perfectly. No glitches at all.

Asking $180USD for the pair, including shipping as registered package so tracking is available.
I am only willing to accept PayPal FF, sorry if you are not able to pay using this way.
Check my past sales to US, UK and Europe, they all arrived without any problems.

Sale:
1N3S – 1 pc.
2D7D – 9 pcs.
2S4S – 1 pc.
5C3S – 75 pcs.
5C3S (black) – 7 pcs.
5C4М – 5 pcs.
5C4S – 1 pc.
5C4C (curly flask) – 59 pcs.
6А10S – 1 pc.
6B8S – 5 pcs.
6D13D – 1 pc.
6D16D – 122 pcs.
6D16D-R – 7 pcs.
6D24N – 27 pcs.
6Е5 – 1 pc.
6Е5S – 74 pcs.
6J4P – 31 pcs.
6J49P-DRU – 21 pcs.
6N1P – 122 pcs.
6N1P-V – 22 pcs.
6N1P-Е – 10 pcs.
6N2P – 1 pc.
6N6P – 1435 pcs.
6N8М – 1 pc.
6N8S – 51 pcs.
6N8S MELZ (metal base) – 52 pcs.
6N8S MELZ (metal base, hole plate) – 31 pcs.
6N8S-1578 MELZ (metal base, hole plate) – 4 pcs.
1578 MELZ (metal base) – 1 pc.
6N9М – 1 pc.
6N9S – 47 pcs.
6N9S MELZ (metal base) – 82 шт.
6N9S «Tantal» (metal base) – 14 шт.
6N23P – 168 pcs.
6N23P-ЕV – 456 pcs.
6P3S (curly flask) - 2 pcs.
6P6S – 47 pcs.
6P14P – 37 pcs.
6P14P-ЕV – 39 pcs.
6P14P-ЕR – 14 pcs.
6P42S – 10 pcs.
6P44C – 25 pcs.
6P45S – 50 pcs.
6S2S - 48 pcs.
6S4S – 14 pcs.
6S5S – 1 pcs.
6S15P – 46 pcs.
6S18S – 1 pc.
6S33S – 8 pcs.
6S33S-V – 14 pcs.
6S45P-Е – 187 pcs.
6F6М1 – 3 pcs.
6F3P - 29 pcs.
6F6S – 2 pcs.
10J12S – 1 pcs.
10P12S – 7 pcs.
30P1S – 10 pcs.
30C6S – 47 pcs.
GM-70 — 10 pcs.

Hi everyone,

I admit that I am quite inexperienced in electronics.

I'm assembling a power supply for my DAC using this LDO in order to replace the original wall adapter that is dead (so the DAC already integrates its regulation).
Upstream I already use a 19v DC source (notebook power supply).

I need to understand if it is suitable to be used as is or if it is necessary to add some bulk capacitance to the output.

These are the already built-in SMD components:
X2 LT3045EMSE
X2 Cap Tant Solid 26uF 25V C CASE 10%
X4 Cap Ceramic 10uF 25V X7R 10%
X2 Cap Ceramic 4.7uF 25V X7R 10%
X2 Res Thick Film 0603 1% 0.1W

The doubt came to me because the same manufacturer sells a more ready-to-use version where you can see two additional capacitors.

If anyone could point me in the right direction, I thank you in advance.

This might suit my needs for a build and it has a pin connector which would make wiring to amplifiers easier. It only has one ground for all channels though. Is this good design practice or asking for crosstalk and or noise? I notice common L/R grounding on the inputs to some of my amplifier boards so maybe common practice?

Hi,
I have just installed Daphile on an X86 PC
All is good apart from the fact that I cannot get any sound on my Fiio BTR3K USB DAC/Amp.

This is my server config

Server

Version: 8.3.1 - git353c504 @ Daphile 23.01-x86_64
Hostname: daphile
Server IP Address: 192.168.0.151
Operating system: Linux - EN - utf8
Platform Architecture: x86_64-linux
Perl Version: 5.36.0 - x86_64-linux-thread-multi
Audio::Scan: 1.02.6
IO::Socket::SSL: 2.074
Database Version: DBD::SQLite 1.72 (sqlite 3.40.1)

Daphile correctly recognises the Fiio BTR3K as an audio device and in the settings>audio devices I have

Device Audio : USB Audio [hw:1,0]

The Daphile FAQ makes reference to changing Mixer settings but the only Mixer options I get are ALSA = Natural or Linear

Neither setting enables sound



I have previously used the Fiio BTR3K successfully when connected to an RPi running PiCorePlayer

Any Ideas ?

Thanks

Hello everyone.
How could I duplicate the power ON/OFF button using minipc (MELE QUIETER HD3Q) hardware?

I cannot use original button on the minipc case, because my DIY project has a new case... With PI4 its very easy, because Rasperry has not a power on/off switch



thanks

Hi Guys, I'm looking to build powered speakers would like to buy units from hypex directly however you need a business to deal with them.
I'm finding exactly what i need posted on AliExpress:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...ea!AU!2759003635!A&curPageLogUid=bad3NGYMOCuA

Excuse my ignorance are these parts genuine and 100% comparable to what hypex would supply?

Thanks in advance,

Damien.

Hello everyone

I built an F5Turbo running at 39V rails(with load) some time back and recently started listening test. I also have Aleph2 with 56V rails.

Setup :
Setup1 : SR6007 AV Receiver Preout > F5 Tv3 and Aleph2 > SB12.3 Speaker
Setup2 : SR6007 AV Receiver > Monitor Audio BX6
Currently I am using one pair of JFET and cascode transistor and no diodes in O/P boards.
The SR6007 preamp section gain is 15.6dB, power amp section is 27.8dB
F5T Gain 22dB
Aleph2 < 22dB
Speaker Sensitivity : 92dB(I can't improve further at this point)
Attached images with appropriate names.

Observation:
With Setup1 I do not hear anything when the volume slider is midway, only when I slide past centre I begin to hear music. The sound is clean.
With Setup2 I hear music when volume slider is midway. I believe it has to do with gain of each amplifier.
F5T is bit louder than Aleph2.

What I am trying to achieve :
I want to increase the loudness at lower volumes levels without compromising sound quality. more gain(more than 27dB).

Questions I have only for F5T:
1. If I use 2 pair of JFET, can I increase the rail voltage between 50-56 VDC without any other changes to circuit(Caps are rated 75VDC)?

2. Currently with rail voltage 39VDC, the P-Channel bias 0.356V and N-Channel bias 0.327V, does increasing bias beyond this has any advantage? if yes what value should I bias them to for 53VDC rails(what is the upper limit without compromising sound quality).

3. Will above two steps help in what I am trying to achieve.

4. If I still need more gain, with below approach what resistor value should I use without any impact to circuit functionality or sound quality. What I mean is I do not want to make more changes since I do not understand the functioning.
Someone's post : "Using the search function showed some comments on using 380R resistors in parallel for R7 - R10 increasing the gain to 26db instead of the 22db.I was aiming for +6dB over the V2 turbo (21.6dB) could I use 500R resistors in parallel or is that too much decreasing the feedback ?"

Thank you

When I took apart my speaker, I realize the black foam panels on the cabinet walls have sort of deteoriated. When I touch it it just crumbled into black dust.

I am thinking perhaps I should just clean up the speaker and replace the foam panels. However, I am not sure if there are any specific foam I need to use. Or perhaps just get those acoustic foam panels online and cut them into size?

Thanks for the help!!

I'm having a real fun time with this amp...
I had it all working, then due to an issue with the preamp it got hit with a DC pop and it went and stayed DC, even with the preamp disconnected. I checked all the transistors with diode check and they all passed. Not sure what happened. All electrolytic caps were replaced. No fuses blew, but when I hook it up with the dim bulb tester I get a fully bright bulb even with a 200W bulb. (but the other channel works if I take the fuses out of the problem channel)
Not sure how to approach it now but I guess I just need to keep going through it. Not sure what people here can offer, but any advice on troubleshooting techniques for such issues would be welcome.

One thing I noticed, is there is no DC blocking on the input at all?? Should I add this?

100-meter RGB WS2812B LED Strip, 60leds/m, how many K-1000C led controller will I need?

https://dinosaurpictures.org/ancient-earth#240

You can enter your location (not well covered) to get an idea where your place would have been X million years ago.

dave

good afternoon gentlemen, I have a problem with the mtx 81000D amplifier, it arrived with burnt source and output mosfets, replace parts, turn on the three led lights, I have + - 15 volts in operations, + - 78.5 volts in diodes (I don't know if this voltage is exceeded), there is no current consumption, there is no sound, a variation of mv in the output that restarts every second (100-300 mv), any ideas? Thanks in advance

Barely used RPI 3B.
I paid €85€ for it, prices are high when demand is higher than supply.
Hope to get €75 excl. shipment, but open for offers.

Item is located in Belgium.

For sale are 4 pairs of vintage Alnico speaker motors / magnet assemblies from Philips 9750M full-range speakers.

Though some are not pretty, and some show a bit of superficial corrosion, the motors are in good shape. Each weighs 1.3kg. They use 25.5mm voice coils and were designed by Philips to provide 13000 gauss (1.3 tesla) in the gap, which is about 1mm wide. They are constructed with a ring magnet and T-yoke (like most modern speakers), not the typical center-slug configuration many manufacturers used at the time (see Troels Gravesen's dissection of a 9710M motor, here which is similar to these).

Very niche items, but maybe some of our DIY full-range driver builders will be interested?

Make an offer! I'll ship anywhere.

Hi folks,

So I am planning to have a couple of PA speakers (4 Yamaha DBR10 10" active PA speakers + 2 Mackie Thump 118s 18" subwoofers) in my basement as part of my speaker setup. However, I hope to be able to crank the volume of my speaker system while being a considerate neighbor by reducing the amount of sound escaping the room. Are there any soundproofing solutions that allow me to soundproof my basement without tearing down/rebuilding my wall? The basement of my house already has carpet on the floors, and I feel that it would be impractical for me to rebuild the walls of the basement or tear off the carpet just to soundproof my room. I'm looking for a solution that has a STC level greater than 80, so that, for example, if I play my speakers at 100db, only 20 db of sound will escape the room so that it is quiet enough not to disturb my neighbors, assuming the walls have an STC of 80. Any ideas?

Very rare early version
Both tested ( see photos)

Collection from Buckinghamshire

£80

As from today in the UK, Youtube forces me to turn History 'on' to receive the random suggestions we all know and love/hate. Am I missing something?

I have for sale 10 units of genuine LME49830 and 4 LM3875 complete board module assembled with non inductive allen bradley resistor's more 4 module of the power supply which include +15 -15 in case of using a pre-amplifier also incorporated on the same board an aux supply for powering for example a motorized pot, with nichicon ks 42 volt main caps for the LM3875.
One of the pictures shows a genuine and fake IC left side genuine."the grove refletcts"
Payment by PP shipment to Europanean Union
LME49830-17€ each
LM3875 Module-47€ with heatsink 56€
LM3875 Power supply 44€
For more information PM

Hi Guys!

I have started making this OS for my desktop amp & speakers, and I decided to make an open-source product from it. 🙂
As I have alredy mentioned in the title, this OS is based on the Raspberry Pi Pico W board and one of the Touchscreen TFTs supported by the TFT_eSPI (in my case it is an ILI9488). Here I want to thank Bodmer this great library! 🙏
If you want to know and see more, I put the SoundOS GitHub Repo link below:

Alie-n Sound Systems - The SoundOS GitHub Repo


- The photo of the recent (0.0.1-Beta) version -

So Guys what do you think? Is this a good idea?
Do You have an idea to make SoundOS better? Post it in a comment. ✍️

PS.: I'm working on this OS as a hobby so please forgive me if I answer later to a question/suggestion.
________________________________
Have a nice day! 😉
Alie-n Sound Systems - Martin

Hi everybody. I need some help in finding the issue. I got an used NAD C326BEE how was staying in protection mode. I changed all electrolytic caps and it was back. Unfortunately the sound was missing. Quick checks with other unit show that the power stage is working but the preamp doesn't. So I decided to trace the signal by my pocket oscilloscope and the signal is stopping exactly before the output.
So I'm pretty sure there is a problem with the gate circuit of JFET-s Q101 and Q301 because they behave exactly the same. But I stuck on the circuit which should control them.
Can someone help.
Attached the service manual.

I ordered a product on Amazon. They phoned and told me to cancel the order as the parcel is misplaced in transit. I reordered the same product. After few days, they phoned me and he is telling the parcel is damaged in transit.
This is a clear bluff. I suspect they do not have the product in stock, but has listed it on their shopping site.

I'm thinking about building some slim monoblocs with the Purifi 1ET400A.
When I look online for buffers, it seems that there are only buffers where the Hypex 1200A400 is to be used. However, to me it seems like overkill to use this when it is to be used as mono. In addition, it is a bit larger 🙁

Is it true that you cannot buy or build yourself a buffer where the smaller SMPS600N400 is to be used?

Can anyone help with some links if available?

I'm looking for the sensitivity spec on the JBL 2261H woofer.

Anyone have this info?

Saw these in a recent Blue Aran update email. Cheap enough . The guide is compatible with the ubiquitous WG300 apparently.


http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=PAUPCT300&msh=PAD23

Have looked through several threads for info on the SF1604GA rectifiers and cannot find a substitute. I'm working on a JL Audio E6450 that has
both negative rectifiers broken. Have searched high and low online and none are available. Can the NTE6244 be used as an adequate substitute? Thanks in advance.

hi guys, i'm new on the forum. I would need your help. I have two technics 1210 mk2, one works fine while the other after half an hour of activity gives me this problem: the pitch green light stays on even after zero, and the pitch stops working. What do you think it could be? thank you in advance

Iam at the point of fitting and adjusting new bearings in my Audio Technica 1010 tonearm and have beern thinking about lubricating the tonearm bearings,these are new and im coming from a damping point of view rather than ease of movement with this question. The arm moves nicely in both axis dry,i wonder if a tiny drop of oil would bring anything to the table. internet wisdom says NO due to dust build up but there are a few comments advocating its use.

If you follow the Korf blog see here they elude to using oil but in the final paragraph they wont comment on any sonic difference, to me this says there is a difference and a positive one otherwise why mention it? They state, 'Another major influence on both the stiction and the sonic performance of the bearings is lubrication. We have done the necessary experiments too, but for the time being it will remain our little secret'.



Comments welcome please. Here is my bearing housing.

diy audio is a bad habit I can't shake! >🙂 nice to see the forums still around. cheers

Does anyone have @Stixx C3G Single Ended Triode amplifier final schematic?

Thanks 🙂

When I move the turntable arm towards the platter, the Akai AP206C turntable does a slight move then stops and does not move anymore. But when I give the platter a slight turn clockwise , the slight momentum helps it to spin normally and I am able to play my records all the way through. I have downloaded the servicing manual from Vinyl engine. l have some basic electronic knowledge. I need help to fix the issue.

Got the message that my post was deleted but did not post anything. Any clue for me?

My last Post there was this one:


and its still there.

What went wrong?

Hy,
After loosing my mind with diy daphile streamer yesterday, I went and bought cd player...
It's Yamaha CD-S303 and I have some questions.
Would I benefit if I connect player to amp (Yamaha A-S501) via coaxial spdif instead of rca?
Would quality be better if I burn cd rips (Flac) to cd instead of using usb?
Is there any pc software that would auto made playlist text list so I can print it out?
I have around 500 flac files on my usb in few folders and it would be nice if I would have playlist on paper with track numbers in front of me...

Thank you

Gang,
So ok I understand the idea of HDMI connector for I2S as it does include 4 separate differential pairs. Ok so MCLK, SCLK, WCLK and DATA.

Back in the beginning of digital we all were doing some pretty weird stuff to make SPDIF better. We went as far as sending the Master Clock from the DAC to the transport and letting the transport derive the SPDIF from the received MCLK.

So in the HDMI setup is the transport/streamer sending all four of the signals or is the DAC sending the MCLK and the transport/streamer creating the I2S from the received MCLK?

Ok so this is LVDS differential pairs and I guess the dac either uses differential receivers like RS485 or transformers to convert to single ended.

We all know that putting the MCLK as close to the DAC chip as possible is the best avenue. But what about reclocking? Now you have the distance of the supplied cable which you don't know and yes you could apply 2x-8X MCLK for reclocking and that would work better for the SCLK, WCLK and DATA.

But really is this a good idea?

Please tell me the benefit of using I2S? Is it because the XMOS USB to I2S is so poor? I would think asynchronous USB would be much better than using a protocol like I2S intended for inches over a cable and a bunch of interconnects.

Thanks,
Gordon

Where would I set my limiters correctly?

Maybe I just have a brain lag but someone has to clear things up for me 😄

When in Hornresp, I can set my Input power to for example 400w at 8ohm.

My DSP has the limiters set behind the crossover so I need to set limiters according to the power that the speaker gets after I set my filters and eqs.

When I set my filters in Hornresp I can look at the driver power window to see what power the driver gets after I set the filters. Now my problem is: in driver power the power changes according to frequency (which is clear because of the impedance) but to what value do I set my limiters now so that the driver gets exactly the power which is shown in hornresp ? The highest peak? The average between all? (If yes how do I calculate that)?

Thanks in advance

I recently tried swapping out 65 year old electrolytic coupling capacitors from a Motorola HS 711B stereo tube amp. After installing the new caps on one channel of the amp, I no longer get an audio signal, just static from this channel. Any suggestions for troubleshooting this? It's not a high value amp so I'm only using Orange Drop caps. There are no markings for polarity so I'm not sure if that's going to make a difference here.

Hello. May 3 paralleled 6l6gc triode conected (AB1) be drived properly from a 12bh7 cathode follower please ? Schem in attach (half circuit shows) please. Thanks.

Hi

I'm hoping for some guidance on replacing drivers on Mission speakers. Pls look out for a post in the relevant section!

Thanks
Dave

Hi all, I'm looking for schematic of Ri Audio PH1 phono preamplifier :

My current multichannel amp has two power supplies and one additional smal smps for vumeter.
I would like to know what sort of connectors is considered safe to use to split main voltage: one in, three out.

In typical household multiple socket hack, I would use this sort of thing:
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/user/products/terminal-strip-block-30a-12-way-max-10mm-cable.png

and cram two wires out, and one wire in, instead of one - one.

Now, I would like to make it safe in this amplifier and prevent main wires from popping accidentally out.

What sort of terminal block is considered the state of the art today for power distribution? I also imagine regulations are not the same in EU than other countries, so I am looking for EU approved connectors. The wago stuff looks nice, but they look like they are made to extend wire?
Ideally:

• no visible main wire or metal parts.
• chassis connection (screw) to prevent said terminal from wiggling in the enclosure.

Thanks a lot!

Greetings everyone,

I'll try to mostly use bullets for easier reading.

• Current setup: Denon X-2700H, Dual Monolith 13inch subwoofers, Monolith THX 365C, Monolith THX 365T's, two small satellite speakers for surrounds.
• Wants: Upgraded front stage (L,C,R speakers).
• Usage: both movies and music.
• Room: dedicated one, 13ft x 13ft, with concrete floors, 1 drywall and 3 walls of cement.
• Budget: I can go for 1.000euros per speaker give or take (I'm at the Europe market).

Two videos got my attention on Youtube and gave me some ideas but I have no idea what to choose and why.

Login to view embedded media <--- This one is a 2way speaker with a 15inch Eminence driver and the new Textreme Eminence Compression driver.

Login to view embedded media <--- And this one is again a 2way speaker inspired by JTR Noesis dual 12's, using SB Audience drivers.

Should I go for a 3-way design? I read that some BMS coaxial compression drivers are epic since you get both the mid and the high frequencies coming from a single unit.

I want something really sensitive as it would be awesome if I could drive my new DIY speakers with my current Denon and not have to buy a new AVR with preamps. SPL is really important to me since I love reference volume levels (my current setup can't do that).

Hi,
I've been testing a class AB amp on a simple 150W toroidal transformer + bridge + 2x 10,000uF filter caps power supply. However, it seems to be taking a long time to recover after a short period of heavy load (approx 70-80% load for 5-10 seconds). It's in the region of 8-11 seconds before the voltage rises back up to the normal value for a minimal load condition (approx 100mA) and the ripple goes back down. Does anybody else have the same experience? If so, how did you improve the recovery time?

I suspect it's due to the transformer itself as the secondary VAC also drops and it seems to take the same amount of time to recover.

Here are some pictures. Blue trace is the B+ supply in question. First is under heavy load with 1kHz signal. Second is few seconds after 1kHz signal is turned off. Third is about 10s after the 1kHz signal has been turned off when it gets to the normal minimal load condition.

I need help! I've recently acquired Audio Precision System One and trying set the primary line voltage to 240V.

Silly me pulling out the voltage card too hard, it flew out so fast and I didn't manage to see the original orientation. So for 240V does anyone know whether to insert in A or B direction into Audio Precision (refer photo below) . Thanks in advance! :




I tried reading the AP manual but the diagram looks nothing like my voltage selector card :

Working on one of these and noticed a bit of corrosion/oxidation on this diode d913. I cleaned that pcb up a bit already but seems to have leached up into the part and would like to replace.

I'm guessing 350mA 4148 would be fine, but not sure.


Thanks,
Ben

Hi guys,

I have a NAD C 320BEE that exhibits strange behaviour and I have no idea where to begin troubleshooting...

The amp powers on into stand-by mode (amber LED) and all input sources are de-selected at this stage (all input LEDs are off). The amp will stay this way indefinitely until I manually push one of the input select buttons. When I do, regardless of which one I push, the amp will default to CD and both the power LED and the CD input LED will go green. At the same time I will hear a loud buzzing/modulating noise come from the speakers that lasts a couple of seconds. After this the noise dies down and everything seems to work fine.

I have the service manual but have no idea where to start looking for faults...

Anyone have any suggestions?

Looking for used or NOS MQ FS-100 10K output transformers for 211 amplifier build. Please contact me privately concerning price. Thanks

Well?
After running some very unscientific and wholly subjective tests. I have concluded that is doesn't make a blind bit of difference.

Hi, I'm Phil, from Belgium.
I'm 58 years old and I begin to repair some Hifi materials from de 80's and 90's...
Sorry for my approximative English, but I'm native french speaking.

Hi all,

I had a fairly hot running LM317 due, mainly, to a small heatsink. I mounted it on the chassis instead and noted that there was a negative voltage on the chassis.

Power supply gives +/- 15v

I noticed that the negative voltage (-13.8v) was registering when I had the DMM probes on the power supply ground (black) and the chassis earth (red).

So even though the regulator was isolated from the chassis, the chassis was still measuring -13.8v, when measuring power supply ground and the chassis.

Is this normal? do I need to connect the power supply ground to the chassis earth?

Any help in resolving this mystery would be greatly appreciated.

I've had a DBX 3BX for a while now and I'm interested in making some modifications to it. Here's what I plan to do:

• I will be changing the capacitors in the entire signal path.
• I'm considering replacing the 4558T op-amp (AO1-AO12) with a TL072.
• I'm also looking to swap out the linear potentiometer with a rotary one. Does anyone have a suggestion for a 4-gang 100k potentiometer?

On Untrue,they recommend replacing the ouput capacitor (from 0.33uF to 1uF) capacitor and upgrading the output capacitor (from 4.7uF to 22uF) on the DBX 118. Since the 3BX has a similar output capacitor to the DBX 118, I'll follow the suggestion and replace it accordingly. However, I'm uncertain about the input capacitor of the 3BX. Any suggestions on this matter?

Additionally, I would appreciate any recommendations for other modifications.

For those interested, here's the schematic:
http://akdatabase.org/AKview/albums/userpics/10004/DBX 3BX Manual.pdf

I plan to recalibrate it using the instructions provided in this post:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/anybody-still-use-dbx-3bx-units.313268/

Best,

This is one of the better cassette decks from the 80s. Retail was $620 in 1988. I found it in a thrift store for $20, it powered up but that is all. Someone dropped it on it face and really did a number on it. Broken recording level control, pcb, door, transport knocked out of whack.

I got it going without too much trouble, just labor mostly. Fabricating a door cover was the hardest part. Did a calibration too. It sounds and records great.

I put a video of the repair on my YouTube channel if anyone is interested.
Login to view embedded media

Hi, I am currently building a pair of desktop speakers using some drivers from Dayton : TCP115-4 and PS95-8.
Since I want to cross them low I need quite" huge" inductors to go 2nd order passive crossovers, I was thinking the best way would be bi-amping. I've already build boards with TDA7375 ( from an old Blaupunkt car stereo, I think most likely they are original, and powerfull enough for desktop use ).
Now for " active crossover " would a 3db passive RC style at the amp input work ? ( a simple 47uF capacitor at the amp output on the PS95's seems to do the job just fine) but i duno for the woofers.
I might build Rod Elliott's project 123, https://sound-au.com/project123.htm , what about the phase shift? I need to invert the ps95's polarity ?.
What x-over freq u guys recommend ? . I was thinking around 250hz. Pleasse take a look at the drivers as well.
Thank you, Bruno.

Hi all, thanks to Patrick I am starting GB for Limited Edition SMD Folded Cascode CEN IV from XEN audio.
LINK to thread for technical discussion.

This GB is limited to 20 pairs and will come as a KIT with all matched transistors, capacitors and resistors needed for assembly.
When we reach 20 pairs I will send requests for payment and start ordering transistors for matching.
After matching transistors I will order the rest of needed components and pack everything at least as good as the last GB I did, so you will have no trouble when assembling PCBs.
Between all the ordering, shipping times and matching 500+ transistors it will take a while, so I will report my progress as often as needed, but I hope by the end of year all should receive their KITs...

Price:

• 1 full KIT 80€ (pair)
• shipping and packaging EU - 12€, World - 17€

I will update SPREADSHEET, just leave your username here and PM me your contact information (paypal email, and shipping details)

For sale totaly new and never used top caps from Rike Audio Germany.This are Aluminium foil PIO caps.They are 8,20 uf and are big and heavy caps.For sound and test review look on net.I buy this about two years back by hifi collective UK.The price would be 120 euro for a pair plus shipping.

I'm working on a crown IC-150 and there seems to be an issue with one of the op-amps. And ohm readings are off on between the op-amps when I have them out of circuit.
What should I replace them with? They have a compensation pin but I know I can replace with ones that don't have that. Do I need ones with the offset null pins? Do I need to adjust anything in the circuit? I've put in sockets so I can swap new op-amps in and out easily.
The original op-amp is MC1439. Datasheet attached.