Cabinet liner foam crumbled should I replace?

When I took apart my speaker, I realize the black foam panels on the cabinet walls have sort of deteoriated. When I touch it it just crumbled into black dust.

I am thinking perhaps I should just clean up the speaker and replace the foam panels. However, I am not sure if there are any specific foam I need to use. Or perhaps just get those acoustic foam panels online and cut them into size?

Thanks for the help!!
 
Hi it's reflex ported. I took this photos online. That's the greyish looking foam in the cabinet...

2Q==.jpg
 
Ok, I kind of feel better about the resoldering job that I just struggled through after reading this thread. Man, maybe a brass while using the vacuum cleaner at the same time. I hope that you can get most of it out. If so, you might think of using a light coat of varnish just to trap any remaining particles.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GM
I am in the process of recapping a pair of Celestion Ditton 66 studio monitors. The cabinets have 1.5" foam lining the interior and the foam is in good shape. However, the foam is just friction-fit and bent to conform with the interior of the towers.

I was wondering if putting cellulose-base stuffing, the kind of material in pillows, would be benificial for holding the foam in place. I expect it might change the sound dynamics a bit. The 1" super tweeter and 2" mid-range driver are both sealed. There is a 12" woofer and a 12" passive radiator so I think this would be the only driver that would be affected.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
  • Like
Reactions: Ixnay
I am not familiar with this material. Do you have a photo or link?

Just yesterday, I was experimenting with damping materials in a set of speakers that I have. It's touchy. I actually accomplished my goal for the bass damping, yet part of the midrange was deadened. In your case however, it would be a different story. As you mentioned the midrange and high frequency drivers are sealed. Depending on the crossover frequency, damping will likely not have the same impact as it did in my 2way arrangement.
Finally, remember that seemingly similar foam, for example can either be open cell or closed cell. That alone makes a huge difference. The devil is in the details.
 
what I hear about the pillow stuffing is that it needs to be teased out evenly and not in clumps inside the cabinet. Going back to the fact that your other drivers are hard back, I wonder if you even need this extra. It sure would do that much for bass depending on the frequency of course. Higher bass may benefit, IMO what you are really trying to reduce is the reflection of sound back through the driver's cone. And standing waves can be reduced as well. These come from the walls of the cabinet being parallel to each other and causing a sound node inside the cabinet that will be heard through the driver's cone, let alone on the outside of the cabinet walls as well. This happens in increasing effect as relative to the volume of the music being played and even the type of music being (perhaps).
From looking at the photos, I would recommend that you ensure that the drivers are completely sealed when you reinstall them. This can make a big difference in performance.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I am expecting the fiber fill would have a dampening effect. These are 'backup towers' so I could rebuld the xovers then swap them out for my Diton 66s in my living room.

I have my towers on isolators that sit on a 16 x 16 x 2" concrete pad. I was trying to minimize the hollow bass effect and it seems to be doing a good job. My idea about the fiber fill was more geared to holding the foam in place as opposed to attenuating any bass. I just didn't know if the 1-1/2" foam leaning up against the cabinet might vibrate or resonate. The fiber fill would help hold it in place as long as it does not interfere with the excursion on the bass driver and radiator.

Since nothing is glued down, I could try it and if it doesn't sound right, it is really easy to pop off the radiator and pull the stuffing out.
Cheers!