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300B 'Perque' driver

Stumbled on this thing:

http://www.single-ended.com/F5002-300B-Perque-drive.htm

does anyone know anything about it or tried it out? Seems rare. There is another version that uses a mosfet for the pentode grid bias.
Seems like a way to reduce output impedance of the driver stage while keeping cathode bias.
I am trying to understand the circuit and see if there are any advantages vs going to fixed bias.
best

Best way to cover heatsink hole?

I'm sure some of you probably encountered this problem before... How do you cover heatsink holes ?
I got a possible deal on a huge heatsink but it already has holes that won't match my needs (I did check carefully....). Some holes will end up beneath the heat transfer area of the devices I intend to install....
I know different materials will have different expansions with temperature variations so it's probablematic but TBH I don't have experience with this. Is there a tried best method ? I guess another option would be leaving the holes and ignoring them but this will surely affect heat transfer... The question is how much...
Yes, I know an even better option is to pass on the deal, but it's a huge heatsink and a great deal.....

Options for Goldwood GW-212

I don't have access to windows to run any of the modeling software. Is there any option for mac OSX? I kinda hate just asking for people to do designs for me, but don't really have the skills/knowledge/software to do it myself.

I am looking the best options for a high WAF design for the GW-212 because I have a couple of them laying around and my wife wants bass to supplement some DML panels I built for her in her. Hoping for something like 40hz - 200 hz.

PT and OT in close proximity

Hello and thanks for stopping by.

Just curious if mounting grounded metal or mu-metal plates are ever practiced in keeping AC electromagnetic fields from permeating other elements of an amp to minimize unwanted inductance, say, between PT"s and OT's or between power stages and input preamp stages.

Where I understand that proper layout is the best and first line of practical defense for AC induction, is this ever used to successfully address those issues? And are there other issues that can arise from attempting to do this?

Thanks!

Best,
Phil Donovan

Room EQ Wizard Questions (that nobody seems to ever ask OR explain)

I am going through the how-to's now and re-aquanting myself with Room EQ Wizzard - but some questions linger for me:

1) Loopback and Sound Card Calibration

I understand the idea behind soundcard calibration pretty well - but the use of the loopback is a bit fuzzy to me (beyond the calibration). While I DO have a Dayton Omnimic V2 and I DO plan to actually measure room acoustics and loudspeaker response - my imediate use for REW will be measuring active EQ circuits. I fully understand: the sound card L-OUT will go to my active xover circuit and the output [from the xover] will be sent back to the L-IN.

But what about the R-OUT and R-IN? Do I leave these two simply open (not connected)? Or should they be jumped directly (direct loop: L-OUT -> L-IN) for some sort of reference? I think ARTA keeps the "second" channel in full-loop mode for the sake of comparing the input-vs-output of the signal under test. But not too sure about REW.

2) What the hell is "Mic Calibration" for?

Is that not what the factory calibration file (from Dayton) is for? Yes, I have a calibrated SPL meter - and can carry out the calibration. But I am not sure I understand the purpose of this if I already have a calibration file. Does this calibrate some other aspect of the microphone? Will this overwrite the calibration that was provided by my factory calibration file?

3) Have I found a bug with REW?

It seems every time I switch inputs (say, from "Omnimic" to "Sound Card Line In") I notice under the Devices section that - rather than re-use the config for the sound card - it adds a NEW entry. While the ever-growing list of "Input Devices" is only a minor inconvinience, the fact that every time you switch back to an input (and a NEW entry is made), that NEW entry does NOT have the path to the calibration file. Meaning - everytime you switch between inputs - you must manually go into the device config and ensure that the duplicated (new) device entry has the same calibration file specified.

I noticed this SAME thing happens to others on YouTube videos as well and would venture to say it is a bug that likely affects all but has just gone unnoticed?

Every. Single. Time.

This is latest version of REW as of October 28, 2023.

I am sure I will have more questions in the coming days and weeks but wanted to ask these questions since surely someone else has likely noticed or wondered the same but probably been too lazy to ask and wait for an answer.

-Dean

Dim bulb tester, build one in five minute.

Using a Yellow Jacket 2177N 4 outlet power block to make a DBT:
1. Unscrew four screws on both sides of the yellow jacket to remove the metal bottom cover.
2. Unscrew six screws on the inner box (4 on top, 2 on bottom) to expose the wiring.
3. Cut the two wires (see 3rd picture) and connect them together with a wire nut.
4. Assemble everything back together.
5. Plug in the bulbs, Done!
Screenshot 2022-05-31 at 18-44-14 Mail - kuan ng - Outlook.png
Screenshot 2022-05-30 at 15-56-35 Mail - kuan ng - Outlook.png
Screenshot 2022-05-30 at 15-26-54 Mail - kuan ng - Outlook.png

Screenshot 2022-05-30 at 16-26-44 Mail - kuan ng - Outlook.png
Screenshot 2022-05-31 at 10-10-53 Mail - kuan ng - Outlook.png

WTB metal type IV and chrome type II tapes

Hello,

If anyone has an old used metal type IV audio cassette or two, or some chrome type II for a reasonable price, I'd be happy to buy them.
Namely I got nostalgic and bought a Technics 3 head tape deck - one just like I wanted when I was a kid (a long time ago).
I have some Type I tapes and would also like to try better types.
I guess I'm joining the tapehead community.
🙂

Have a nice day!

woofer for closed box: Accuton AS190-9-251??

I am looking for a woofer working in a closed box with a crossover frequency at 200 to 300 Hz. Above will be a bending wave wide range driver and as this has very good transient response and low distortion the woofer should match.
My present loudspeaker uses a version of that bending wave driver and an Accuton S280-6-282 in a vented alignment which was designed to be in a larger room freestanding. As my room is smaller I am trying to design a loudspeaker on the front wall corners (https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/on-wall-or-corner-loudspeakers.403432/#post-7458326 ).This would generate a significant room/corner gain and so I am thinking a smaller woofer in a closed box with slower roll off would be more suited. The box volume can be up to 60L but I would prefer a smaller box as this is easier to construct resonance free.
Design wise I like this Accuton cell driver and I see that it has quite low distortion but quite low sensitivity (not a big issue with class-D amps) and has quite a high resonance peak at 2kHz requiring something more than 1st order x-over. Hificompass measured that woofer but had a remark that the loudspeaker (Vimberg) he got it from had terrible bass.

I was also looking at Purifi PTT8.0X04 NABor 08 8inch or PTT10.0X04 NAB (not yet available). These are designed for good midrange performance but I would not use them in that frequency range. I am also not to excited visual design wise.

Noisy preouts on an Arcam AVR350

I've picked up a used Arcam AVR350 to use in a simple 2.1 configuration. I've owned an AVR300 since new so I'm reasonably familiar with the kit.

Excusing the "quality" diagram below... the setup is a pair of speakers powered by the receiver's own FL and FR amplifier channels, and an external power amp connected to the SUB preout on the receiver; driving a passive subwoofer.

Config 2.1.PNG


It was immediately obvious that the subwoofer output is very noisy. A loud buzzing sound at any volume level (except for when the receiver is muted). Sound from the FL and FR speakers is fine (no noticeable hiss unless I turn the receiver volume up to levels that I wouldn't want to use for listening).

Having (unsuccessfully) gone through all the usual checks of grounding issues I reduced the setup to just a single speaker, connected to the FR preout on the receiver, and powered by the same external amp:

Config FR via preout.PNG


That still resulted in a lot of noise (interestingly the FR channel via the receiver's own amp is fine, but noisy via the FR preout).

It could point to the external amp being the problem, so I simplified things even further, and just attached a digital recorder to the FR preout phono/RCA plug. Other than (obviously) power to the receiver there's nothing connected (no speakers, no input sources etc):

Config FR preout phono recording.PNG


As far as I understand (with this receiver), when an analog source is selected you'll always get output to the FL and FL preouts. If the DSP is off (Direct button pressed) then it's a simple pass though, and with the DSP on the input gets processed, then sent to the preouts.

Generating a spectrum plot from the preouts with no input source but the amp volume turned up high shows a spike at 50Hz (UK mains frequency) but then significant spikes every 100Hz. This is present regardless of whether the DSP is on (top) or off (bottom). Understandably there's lower overall noise with the DSP turned off (Direct mode).

FL-and-FR-phono-with-DSP-(top)-and-without-(bottom)-from-preouts.png


I've reproduced the above behaviour on different preout channels (though obviously for a stereo input all other channels are off when the DSP is off, as only FL and FR inputs get passed through in Direct mode).

So; it appears that anything that comes out of the preout phonos is noisy (with or without the DSP enabled), and anything that comes out of the receiver's own amp channels is clean (regardless of whether it's first gone via the DSP or not).

The affected board is the MULTI board (sometimes misspelled MUTI in the service manual). Having pulled the board from the chassis, you can see 4 of the 8 preout phonos (labelled in green). The row of capacitors labelled red are (what I assume to be) part of the line level amplifiers for each preout. On the right (labelled in blue) there's a capacitor (C680) and a black cable going to a ground point near the power supply:

multi-board-labelled.jpg


The schematic for this board shows the 7 speaker preouts + sub preout on the right, and capacitor C680 is at the top of the page below:

MULTI board.PNG


Based on this section of the schematic I'm assuming this area around C680 is providing a ground for this board (the upside down triangle mark). Could it be as simple as a faulty C680 capacitor causing grounding issues and spikes every 100Hz (that only appears to affect the preouts)? I don't have an electronics background so I'm basically at the limit of my knowledge here:

1698415574280.png

Khozmo Display Help

I have a dual Khozmo attenuator set-up and somehow I seem to have "un-synced" the display brightness. The right display is one step brighter than the left and I do not know if there is a way to re-sync them.
It is most apparent at each end of the brightness range. Khozmo has been less than responsive lately at least via e-mail.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Dave

Ewrekaw.jpg


cQPF6fO.jpg

Sony micro plug

Hi all,

Sony back in the 90's was using a so called Micro Plug to connect their earphones to the remote control and then to their walkmans of that era.
The plug is looking like the picture attached.

I have a few Sony walkmans and I need to build an adapter "Sony Micro-plug" to "female 2.5mm regular phono plug".
Does someone know how this type of plug is called so I can look it up in mouser, or digikey?sony micro plug.JPG

For Sale Audio Amateur, audioXpress, etc. back issues

Below is a list of what I have. I've broken them into lots which are reasonable to ship. These are all in very good condition. No writing in them. There is a TINY bit of rust on the staples of some of the Audio Amateur issues, but the paper is fine. Some of the AA's still even have the blow-in cards. Please don't ask me for individual years or issues or to rearrange what is in each box.

Price is $50 per box with FREE shipping included via USPS Priority Mail. (US addresses only).
Single box purchase is fine.

Box #1
======
Audio Amateur
1979 - 4 issues (1, 2, 3, 4)
1980 - 4 issues (1, 2, 3, 4)
1981 - 4 issues (1, 2, 3, 4)
1982 - 5 issues (1, 2, 3, 4, 5)
1983 - 5 issues (1, 2, 3, 4, 5)
1984 - 5 issues (1, 2, 3, 4, 5)
1985 - 4 issues (1, 2, 3, 4)

Box #2
======
Audio Amateur
1986 - 3 issues (1, 3, 4)
1987 - 4 issues (1, 2, 3, 4)
1988 - 4 issues (1, 2, 3, 4)
1989 - 4 issues (1, 2, 3, 4)
1991 - 4 issues (1, 2, 3, 4)
1992 - 3 issues (2, 3, 4)
1993 - 4 issues (1, 2, 3, 4)
1994 - 4 issues (1, 2, 3, 4)

Box #3
======
audioXpress
2001 - 1 issue (November)
2002 - 11 issues (missing October)
2003 - 11 issues (missing August)
2004 - 11 issues (missing June)
2005 - 11 issues (missing June)
Bonus: Glass Audio
1988 - Volume 1, Number 0 (this was an Audio Amateur supplement)
1997 - Volume 9, Number 2
1997 - Volume 9, Number 4

Box #4
======
audioXpress
2006 - 12 issues (includes January through December)
2007 - 11 issues (missing February)
2008 - 8 issues (missing February, July, December)
2009 - 11 issues (missing September)
2010 - 3 issues (includes January, February, March)
Bonus: Audio Electronics
1997 - issue 2
1998 - issues 1, 2, & 4

MR94 Mantarays - foam damping?

I found a post by GM - from way back:

Seems reasonable, JBL obviously couldn't build anything that infringed on Altec's patent, but from just looking at the 2360's published data it may be a better sounding horn in a typical HIFI app, though a mouth foam surround smooths the mantaray right out.

And while I have searched high and low - I did not find any details on this approach.

I have to admit that I'm not at all unhappy with how the MR94's perform with 288-8k (metal horns with thick rubber structural damping on the backside)
I of course added some minor notch filters in the DSP. While the top roll-off is not insignificant, it is still manageable.

Would be thankful if anybody could share some details on this or hint me in the right direction.

There is an itch to try out both the 2360's and especially the 5671, which I have heard on one occasion as part of the 5674 system.
Still a bit worried that it might not work given the distance needed for things to come together. 29x29ft room though.

Rotel RSX-972 relay clicking issues

Hello to you all, I've posted the text below as a reply to an old thread but thought might as well start a new one. I have this Rotel RSX-972 amplifier. At first I thought it was completely dead. It did nothing when I pushed the power button. At one moment I left it when still had it powered on, I was doing something else and after about 5 minutes I heard the relay click.. No display or what ever but it kept clicking. Was happy since there was something alive. Opened it up and saw some bad solder joints. resolderded them, still the same. Now pulled the front off and did the same. Turned on and the display turned on and off with the relay click. Been puzzling around and came at the point it stayed on and actually produced sound. So happy again, put it all back together and... nothing. Started to test the different boards by pulling out the inside cables of their sockets and figured out that when I left the cable to the front out, and turned it on it clicked instantly. When I put the cable back in it again took a while and the clicking (front blinking with is as well)interval started to go faster and faster until it reached the point it stays on. So my assumption is something takes too long to get to the minimal amount of current to keep everything on. Any suggestions what this could be? I already changed the capacitors in the power supply but this doesn't work... I am on a dead end now and would be very happy if I get this Rotel working again since it is a very nice piece! Help would be appreciated! Cheers

Transistor active low pass filter

Hi Guys,

I have been aske by one of my customers about designing a transistor 12 band graphic eq. My first idea was to use gyrators but the customer stated that he wanted to use active LC filter with discrete transistors. I do not have any experience with that but this is the result that LT Spice is showing. What do you think about that or do you have any experience with that? Thank you very much.

Filter 2.png

Musings on the design of “the big one(s)”

As some of you are aware, I’ve been toying with the idea of building some “stupid power” tube amps for a while. The first tube amp that I didn’t “just throw together, then take apart” happened to be 200 watts and sounds fantastic. Naturally you want to keep going….

Doing it “properly“ by buying $10,000 worth of KT88’s and as much or more on custom iron is completely out of the question. I’ve been collecting TV sweep tubes, and transformer solutions that “should“ work - that is, nothing is run beyond its normal operating range. People (including me) have successfully used power toroids for output transformers. The catch is you’re really limited to 170 volts peak on a 120V winding, and stacking two is as far as you’d dare push it. But Antek makes some that are DESIGNED to put out 1900 volts. THAT got the wheels turning.

Im not planning on re-inventing the wheel in terms of circuit topology. Nothing too fancy, just a Mullard with k-followers directly driving the individual power tubes. This keeps g1 circuit resistance low and allows individual fixed bias. A bias servo will be used to balance individual pairs. This will need to be rung out first, as will overcurrent and excessive g2 voltage shutdown. I know the bias concept works, I’ve used it to balance transistor pairs. I’ll just need to ring out the gain structure and compensation for stability. With actual tubes. I have a batch of 21EX6 earmarked for this development. I figure I’d try to keep it all tube - including little pentodes as current sources for LTPs. If that gives me too much trouble there are always MJE340’s. Like other ‘pro’ amps, the power section would have limited gain, and a front end with 0-20 dB drives it. The whole front end and supervisor would have its own power supply, and the main B+, screen supply, and power tube heaters powered separately with a delayed turn on and shutdown under fault conditions. All this would be common to the various configurations I’ll be looking at over the next ~2-3 years.

Will it ever get built? Who knows. But I have bought the dummy loads for testing and tuning the power supplies, and dug all the transformers out. It always starts there.

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Help JC Power 2500.1

Good afternoon, sorry friends, now I'm looking for help to get this amplifier going, I've already checked the output fets and the driver transistors and they're fine, when I try to turn it on I only see this, I hope I can. help greetings.

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Making a Graymark 509 Safe

Hello,
a Couple years ago i picked up this cute little Graymark 509 Amp kit off eBay. I have not had a real use for it but figured it would be a fun project for a snowy day. Well I actually have a use for an upcoming project that i could use this for. BUT i need to make it safe first. this amp does not use a power transformer, but is instead a "Hot chassis" unit connected directly to the AC line. not very safe. Apparently these were part of an electronics course i have read! yikes! So digging around it looks like it can be made safe by using a 1:1 isolation transformer. and I have seen some posts of other amps that use a 50C5, 35W4, 12AV6 combo and it appears they connect the isolation transformer as shown in my badly photoshopped schematic. Is this safe? is this the safest way?

Or should I add a center tapped secondary Isolation transformer and a couple of diodes. connecting the CT to ground and the two dioes before the rectifier tube?


Suggestions on how to make this amp safe. Please and Thank you!


ZC

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Is the Dayton Ultimax 15 the ultimate OB woofer?

https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/295-514--dayton-audio-um15-22-spec-sheet.pdf

Consider two of these behemoths wired is parallel-series running 400hz on down paired to either a wideband mid tweeter or conventional midwoofer and tweeter…….good lord. QTS and response graph suggests flat OB response below 30hz and clearly those wishing to boost the lower end?…..these drivers can take whatever you throw at em for sure.

PeeCeeBee Preamplifier GB

Hello everyone.

The PeeCeeBee Preamplifier is here! PCBs will be available via group buys arranged in this thread.

_________________________________

UPDATE October 8 2021: All boards from last batch gone. Entry open for 3rd group buy. Shipping has resumed to most countries.

_________________________________

BOM with parts placement indication uploaded >Here<.

Setup Guide uploaded >Here<

Drill Template uploaded >Here<
_________________________________

Introduction:

It is a fully bipolar transistor based symmetrical "Class-A" push-pull preamplifier with real-time adjustable pure Single Ended harmonic distortion level - from less than 0.001% to over 1% - with second harmonic being predominant in all levels! It also includes its own low noise regulated power supply section on-board, that uses the same transistors used in the active section. It can be used as a very good headphone amplifier for voice coil impedance of 32ohm and above. By using a higher gain than the default +6dB, it can be made to put out 10VPP into 600ohm headphones or upto 25VPP to power-follower type amplifiers.

Description:

The preamplifier consists of two gain segments per channel, one push-pull (PP) and one single ended (SE), preamp output is taken from the PP segment. The PP segment uses low gain with very high global negative feedback and generates a clear replica of the input signal with minuscule THD. The SE segment uses high gain with zero global negative feedback and produces the same signal with massive amounts of low-order THD. The PP segment is directly fed the input signal from the volume control. The SE segment's output is coupled to the feedback node of the PP segment, and the SIG ("Signature") potentiometer controls the input signal to the SE segment. With SIG control set to lowest, the SE segment will contribute almost nothing in the main output due to its high output impedance compared to the feedback node of the PP segment. As we gradually increase the input to the SE segment, its output will present gradually more harmonic content to the feedback node of the PP segment where it will be compared with the feedback signal from the output of PP segment, and the difference between the two signals is presented to preamp's output. Since high amount of harmonic content at high frequencies is often unwelcome, the input to the SE segment can be lowpass filtered with user chosen maximum frequency of interest, so that the high frequency signals can be chosen to contain the least amount of harmonics, and treble definition remains intact.

How it sounds:

It sounds neutral, and it sounds warm, and everything in between! How much neutral or warm depends on how much you want to turn the SIG pot! In my system I have been listening to it from morning to midnight, day after day, with the SIG pot turned towards a low setting during daytime and to a slightly higher setting in the evening.

As expected, in its minimum SIG setting, the sound is extremely clean, with a large soundstage, and in its maximum setting, it is extremely sweet (masked), with a narrow soundstage. In my main system I found the sweet spot to be around 5-10% of the turn when playing music tracks where a lot is going on, and around 45-50% when I am listening to chants or other music types where the music is minimal, calm and relaxed. At near 20% I feel the sound is very balanced, with the right amount of depth and detail I like, along with a touch of that "SE" niceness.

I feel that at the highest and lowest settings the system will have a tendency to become "special case", i.e. in both these extremes it may choose to sound very good with some types of music and not so good with other types, subjectively speaking! You feel the sound is not coming good for the music? Turn it slowly and find a sweet spot. But it is Extremely important that you wait a few minutes after reaching the new setting! Read on to know why.

The design was finished in March! Although the pandemic and subsequent suspension of shipping services delayed everything, I kept listening to the veroboard prototype everyday. And something very interesting and important regarding the SIG control has become clear to me in the last couple months.

The position of the SIG control that suits your taste must be found by spending some time listening in a set position. The potentiometer can be turned without any problem during music playback. But instantly finding out a sweet-spot this way is almost impossible - at that new setting it will sound pretty much the same as the last setting and make you feel like the control is not working, although distortion may have changed by an order of magnitude or more!

This is because our aural perception needs time to notice changes in the level of harmonic content, and significantly more time to make a memory out of it. So it is suggested that the user sets the SIG level to a position and then gives it some time of listening, then changes the setting to another level and repeat the listening. Expect at least a day of listening to find all the sweet spots for your system. I say sweet spot's' because if you listen to multiple types of music, you will almost certainly find one sweet spot for each type. Each listener will have his/her own sweet spots and the speed of finding them will vary, as some listeners have a more acute perception than others. That said, as I mentioned previously, around 20% setting the preamp can sound good for almost all types of music. Links to a collection of the harmonic levels at different output voltage into different load impedances are shared below in the "THD Spectrums" section. Note that there is about 1dB of output signal attenuation when the SIG potentiometer is at its maximum, this doesn't cause any problem during listening.

Side Note: I noticed that the phase of the second harmonic relative to the input signal was easy to manipulate by choosing the polarity of Q7/Q8 transistors (output of SE segment). Since March I have been using an NPN here which was adding negative phase second harmonic to the output. Recently I changed it to PNP and got the positive phase second harmonic. At first it sounded quite different, and felt like the overall definition has increased. It got me excited and I posted a page worth of it >here<, thinking this is the way to move forward with the preamp. But after a couple days of listening it became apparent that the sonic appeal of the system has been lost with the positive phase second harmonic! I could not keep playing it for more than 15 minutes in a go! There is no high-order harmonics present beyond the 4th, but the sound started to feel thin and kind of bitter. Off to the workbench and reverted back to NPN, and the lushness of the output came back! Hence, back to old way (the better sounding way). The NPN actually outputs normal phase second harmonic, but as the SE segment's output is coupled to the feedback node (which is the inverting input of the PP segment), the harmonics get inverted at the output.


_____________________________________



All active devices are commonly available discrete bipolars. The PCB is a bit large, I decided to make it a little more spacious (I received many complaints about how congested my amplifier PCBs are. They're still congested! 🙂 ).

The onboard power supply is comprised of simple dual rail CRC filters followed by regulated capacitance multipliers in Sziklai follower config, powered from a 15V-0-15V/30VA center tapped transformer. There are two pots in the power supply section (VR5,VR6). Using these two pots the rails can be closely matched between +/-12V to +/-14.5V, and each rail can be trimmed individually. Instead of two large reservoir capacitors it uses 32 smaller capacitors, having much better filtering performance and keeping the profile low. Even with 40mA bias per channel I can hear absolutely no hum from the speakers or headphones. The preamp has no audible residual wideband noise, there is virtually zero hiss with headphones or speakers over ear.

Drill template and setup guide are being prepared and will be shared in a few days.

______________________________________

Input Impedance: 67Kohm
Output Impedance: 32ohm

Layout snapshot:

PDI7hdV_Kw2wtsjQLF5Y7sJP4lefT3KoQ304H-dNUb7-8BEIPpIybNttbNoRcl1INeR122o-ZjcKgTHwtewLMS_6BvQaD8g8a1ilggTJWPvW-A5C0_wau0Im87jfRaVacA2-EJl7rkcN0i7X_QZ1OvOHiNTnIPPAt2rOrig9Bm9udR_dqwVFtU6P-GwW4NW2pgsyZykif1Xzs1i7mtJtKEd21R-8htkWONzwg09Cs3YthHZ0SAa2E_FmuhuJ6Wz54E9d_-UOMlYVxGuNwqUSzd5G_JZuoqobkKYvk5B9C0COc5ScFKxcl84wvyyzoaWMlpiHX9KohIqOQm6TSmth4i-6UFKJpWQDvm4TsNlf5Hi2kQT9EVP06nW60-SuYwkcgltxmlwDFeRJWfZgX7isx7TgR3j7v7GGx0a5hDglXkdSmoeW-pDiMI_MmDpXobWiVX-XxRPk1QUZQrLjdTABeV5fymbkhk3DSgIprbVU-2yky5-i9En7s1A5s59bEsT9Dd7z4YBSipwR5JC7XkvcRkytEzFzr6oCpzI4gziGrXElAoMLeFZ3_sdYx1cnPmcxjFttCSgqXoU2gTrEzMW8EtykOY8I64MLlGlp3IJMmgiXW4B0fJY0Sgs4sFdJ6FFJYZH3jj8Js8Aztko8WYQ2bShf1iMpyQzPhkOR5Xy-P4bLXeMIlVPChB-q7rAK=w1178

Schematic:

ACtC-3dWobKLwwBSoESkVdoTbA4ZVLUAqnwUHbEcGabL0xWpoGEDyXI_TYSKHWTeeoae_ZcCM5ez5yrMjQhJCJ2swk1I9It0i_JuPEXX2Vd4gOgyZvIkLlCPvPS__xMtO4Of3mmXcusrf-DaJ6myGfoFHYsl=w2397

The prototype:

G8Wl_g_OTV4uNJweNpnB6-EXlC5ZTit933RrhnkadSY3mw3XcDuCezZRMAfsUQboDcsICiCnQQGeonXsje_sD-XGQ3lNe8cgEODUBc1sd8dLIUbEqJyefat3nCfVk66v1GMQgScDcw_dsyNKtn5sNf_w2MQjsdlYjxPpOLVky3yrFouxRgRF6Ougj00Zddj5JYsvHQG4p2_flMoXbVB8anikX_G4FS_AD468Y2aI07XF73hLZH_V9z-BKkGicCAx1aJoLC2IW9aqcOHoVJkmboP5DaE0S6wri_oatbhJb81tkTKwnyQiRsOcBsIHEi4GGwZSDXaQz6zyEwBOcd1jY1yhfs-Gr7MrvWUKtvxingR2Qg7O33LHH-FxcEDMyktHZ0p3s3E3QflRevxc-4Ocf7qTRfg4_k8EI_jlB_3OBYAkurUpAPJIS_TNR93csorvlPoGQvQjOEb2yM9T-QNd3NNfgSP0G_JEpPpBTjnTd6j4nL4Zal8yLaR1Of8v1ZKGngxT3djHARxlqG4HPBvDCgIEE7vozslpgjEGsghHlOecVjUu_ZRkoLGIQBdZWXcFgQjrwOwbb_nRwMJG-x1EalXD8NDk8NBbCrr3PPSoP7gngVrm3sMg1CsWZKmG6vcT5wDCz_XGIboNkL3vvAeEL3UIbVpGoaig2MoTAdkpCCcizveQkIu2tuPoxEft=w1430


AKqRJM_zR3n9esVdTVC643Fi7ijSyOVb_y554hT3csYplvlfFMPS6mf2UlEJqlabqMs42fqD8aDhaKX51Z15D1qemIelYJjTBRk4zKMKi515gqNoJ88xNReHRCIT9Dnu9yblYiloEdRehM6o-e0fZyJH5tzv974996VrfeyftXV0YP0fVBvttOOyd_AWTIQGOeIyl1Ik0_Ae-h6MxNW1THxaysIEhEjGPzGD6jRRm8KcXV2YtziQBJKyGMAPwc6wtsy4VOxPLqWbcaLuIm9rQ5FzT8BqAl9c6Hk1omY6E6s5YXv-g8LqeXXOATcUJOus-nZhMUQR8idh_EtZ0dBOG-0bpxALEWfyYZ-UYCFiRyimIdBraH-5eqj0HGl08yfKIUNBSMABymILLMxYMzjjJvHIQeE4lof5C7hbRCsX6rUdb7xZ-XRGfwqs7Zu7Q_PfTwoq2et5ocdLHPBZWLQHFOshRx2mVJVTKqhCqeOtXh9b5XcKIKV_kCfDCgLobrbXIFURvLTOMuLj_mM6kQ9_drMIUhOafBkauRebyvsk7K5OgDlN9YCMApTP5GJhNVziDhzcZLcZi8-hZS18LZZrVxkebfXh6PBmUrHFc-mnEPB6918FzzXDKKHq04_H7wEE9I0mUPmdcSRoDRVcRPJRobHw28gQAS69c9N5h1sHJMJLjwejoMPaZLwjNora=w1430

Input-Output delay:

lyvHJtVKR82YcM2p1frkcxbWHneUI0tttSLfsMFpq_2Oja-_Y9kn5Jmcz8gmhF2uIRHaX_XhL_eA3wxl3OJKKgTjxX8M_vqQVPz6trA4qLTccCMBzrC1EkkPa_lyKSNTthwRghFT9DWsZUJH8ipon3dAxAdWvidGNWDUNlfxGt6yfPAByp1x2XEC0NtY8L3nRDqeKV-VABzIIOCDJ6iFQaXRdOxWmFkKV7rD2rwY5pWiXup6yztmTJKZZfDQ1ThilYMezPcpxW39O6zB7ibze3W4ISAJHuNXcGVtmPiBser-DXq1JPJyBuulmXzsgakQqkFAeN_wB6gRLkbw2VtPrpdu57yUwWYmqdIkP5i6gVhG8P_uzDLZG7X1eW_lsgQ-0Imp4Tlk-oEe1qBQMBMWaESffxhDMqTaA4XrBnVcOztLv9CuLo_DMJ5m15jT0_SiF3ZxM42auKrWBoP68XSqxUi05IPLjWF9Q2_hPCIgCFiIBb1rVPSYHimouQi5TffCXmCEVIlU4J0t6qEawrGApjnPVvK3boiRtA-kvs22Cnc_GnZlVJZmZ5CASIcH5YxFBBAD1qDAzgBO5QtwushtayOd1a6rUIsKs_H_aBKrDT_cAYnSmOgd40mRSWd-um0LqvK9HjabBHmrT3tAneTe_nngV4Rr0Ew23jLvE9HmNAOKfruqi13StHGZGnF4=w1590

Slew rate:

VxfHNj2gOnmMPGmgFYbXmHTAVgbO8o1vr3jX2Pybqy-UrFTYVhI5r73HH_h4nxU87HwJPw9HM4jvJZmjN2y05Z0ymQQnIk9afx43xQOaQ7rYlSZ0qhpnmn8BRNWzMYyhc62NHDXO15dnsf8oE6q4_KbGDMjJ_r6tLClKKFRpROtKrZ0B8ntt_5XxaHh6hTaiR-mNmAb6Y-1zq_CqJDlc0prbyvxlE1g4vWKJtuePhiR-ZPPXoolLUaGbI60KsAKJXORRePjYeXfyQKXlM_EutFSgwiBaiAfr2JWWb7ZaAOqrFV6svniBaVUmGmG1bijE52Om2fAFQnAV_hXR-1KsKRB3YmXnKpoKOn9HlZeVUelS1-xhlvs32_nbvLRvZP5oddqkN7pytXJSq-DRVvp1pET9AjeKrVLs3SgHw38hAdoAJSA1zatn6_Pkf5te8T3iGCZzKo7FOxWjxMctKbmQx-w_lAGG16HcoByVypDD4ufZaQSN0Ef8lPEmKxmdahMJD2m0vvsAEdgLlWsn0Op9eN1Fk24itn7RNaXxeIr6aRG8QaYLJ6E3pA9gXKcDA6nI7Q9yRSaz0toXXA0jdRmHhx3NkxAI9z6tSj6AWYfd-MdXUseURSjk7FcGspNshFaSDKpHjWuwuMN8qJ91TWqH3YraV7YBdbcBJGo1VEv0MLLSCw_aQYS0-0pO2eIm=w1590

Harmonic waveform (at 1% THD):

y-1Ww45hSBj0-VhfhdfjKy7XyPn2xURJ7aP29X8s4YxOXAXbCEpdiVsOyEnuXKf_v4TLDIvHXIHNQs3BXb1GpbcosjarG0HCAk6uHaz1c3POG16t39qBPOw6Yb-69HgDSZaAYsu1elx_98UaNTym2zKMLK5ZG3V1yfMKhWrrdxKM3fHdORD1tCUNhIDkF_1GHeawXlqfas691NAGFCpeQoOsSOAQZNdPRw4IDBqutIlV-LjqY-YYDUy4lcnq_ol0RzGRYordPPr4BeZDwDM05J2rSiAeDjcMg2VPp5BGGfLwyCTdGGp1iZEe0nKpmlRn2BN-1Vp6aw8A1lbcYf70oQzLsaF-K8Qkjti5a2tsFNIhxnNgt-VaU0F-AJpTUYNs8_B5PVXhN8WnLy9cmjks3M9ZgJtHeeY8ejZ0JUgWMaLv2E-Sky0vxgluGTsZm0t2YtqiYiYPesrdsWdiNduN6iSrNLHWVHhGw77VgMWxuKUIM_7Vccpynk4qe2RNfHBAFwwSW1cLPULQ2P4UH3WeUK38G8AgDrq3I1xGJlR4_oc775G496TKikjdmqNY9RWu17ZFO0NV_CdnhSi6mU6D0Ln5cI99iTTrOnRx6CI8E84cm0L9Jjh0_9_F8lHEklGbtGVwqRiWD_gZmI9NggP_jMTENzk1KemN6DTo7wSXujhUo7kSda7EKPQlRkYx=w1590

Video Snapshots:

Power Supply Rail Behavior -> Power Supply Rail Behavior
Power On/Off Transient Output -> Power On/Off Transient Output
Clipping Waveform -> Clipping Waveform

THD Spectrums (Peak-to-Peak output, Gain +6dB, 1KHz):

10Kohm load:

500mV - Low SIG, High SIG
1V - Low SIG, High SIG
2V - Low SIG, High SIG
4V - Low SIG, High SIG
8V - Low SIG, High SIG

680ohm load:

1V - Low SIG, High SIG
2V - Low SIG, High SIG
4V - Low SIG, High SIG
8V - Low SIG, High SIG

100ohm load:

500mV - Low SIG, High SIG
1V - Low SIG, High SIG
2V - Low SIG, High SIG
4V - Low SIG, High SIG

-------------------------------------

All the above shared documents and pictures can be availed in a single zip file >Here<.

-------------------------------------




-------------------------------------

The PCBs are 1.6mm FR4 material with 60micron copper, black solder mask, white silkscreen and HASL finish. Dimensions: 170.18mm x 119.38mm.

-------------------------------------


Important information regarding group buy:

>> The PCBs cost USD20 for one unit.
>> International payments are accepted through PayPal only and payments from within India are accepted through bank account transfer/deposit, NEFT, IMPS and UPI.
>> Delay between placing the batch order to PCB plant and delivery of the boards to me will be 20-25 days.
>> Shipping is done for 3-4 packets a day to avoid stagnation at the clearing hubs due to the slow movement of international shipments.

Thanks.
shaan

Event TR8 XL monitor parts or improvements

Hi guys

As Event Elrctronics (or Rode) is non responsive in 2023.
I have previously posted regarding a fault on one of my TR8XL monitors.
I now can perceive after further deteriation, that a tweeter has fried, producing very high distorted crispy sound.
Any help regarding a replacement part, be it original or alternatives, i would be very grateful. I'm in the UK West Yorkshire, in case any local helpers. If not appreciate any help/advice please, as I am a novice when it comes to electronics.
Thankyou

Linux crossover to FDA amplifiers?

In the past I've used MS Windows-based crossovers working through multi-way DACs to analogue amps. Since then I've moved to Linux, and the PC has become my only source. I also find myself considering class-D amplifiers. Which might logically suggest forgetting about DACs and instead going with FDA Fully Digital Amps. But these are fairly new and Linux sometimes takes a while to natively/widely support new hardware. Also, I'm relatively new to linux, as far as technical expertise goes anyway.

So my question is, how challenging is it to set up a linux-based crossover to multi-way Fully Digital Amps? Can this just work as if the amps are bog-standard/generic USB audio devices, and could something like Camilla-DSP just use these as normal, or is it more complicated to achieve?

Apologies if this is all very obvious, but I'm new to FDA and many of the people using it seem already quite expert.

Thanks,
Kev

6 Pin DIN Input Cable wire ID?

I acquired a vintage Audiomobile system with 3 SA amps8 and a crossover. My car didn't have a radio/receiver, but the system came with 6 pin DIN plugged cable. There are 6 pins, including a center pin.
Can anyone help me identify the wire assignments from the stereo's output?
My plan is to solder RCA cables to a plug to feed the system to test it. Thanks in advance

*SA-1000 (1)
*SA-400 (2)
*CXE-2
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Measuring capacitance in phono cable

I'd like to measure the capacitance of a cable that is twisted pair with a shield, example: Mogami W2549
Should measure capacitance between the pair of conductors, what about the shield to conductor capacitance?

So here is what I tried. The standard coax type Technics SL1200 phono cable is about 66pF for 47" including RCA connector. I am taking the measurement between two conductors.
But if I try a twisted pair with a shield cable, such as Mogami W2549, I will use the connected shields from BOTH channels (L+R) as the ground wire. The shields will become my ground wire, connected on the pre amp end and also the turntable chassis, just like the regular ground wire gets connected.
How do I measure capacitance now? Do I add the capacitance between "positive" and "neg" conductors and ADD the capacitance between "pos" and the shield and also Neg and the shield?

thanks!

Does anyone have any experience with repairs on the Sony TA-FA3ES amplifier?

New to this site, so Hi!

I received the mentioned amplifier and it got damaged somehow en route. When switching on one of the resistors on the L output board burns out. I changed the resistor and now it doesn't burn out but the one opposite on the R output does. I've done a physical inspection and replaced two other resistors that have burning on the board underneath them and also repaired some cold solder joints but don't really know what i'm looking for. Any help is appreciated. I can supply the schematics and photo's.

Tube amplifiers with PMC EB1i speakers

About 10 years ago I purchased PMC EB1i loudspeakers for use with solid state amplifiers. These were industrial AB class amplifiers, and selfmade single-ended class A amplifiers, some of which I discussed on this forum. After some time, I began to try to connect tube amplifiers to these loudspeakers, in particular, I purchased a NEM A300SE single-ended tube amplifier. While I liked the sound with tube amplifiers more, it was obvious that with these large loudspeakers, tube amplifiers did not provide the ability to sound full at low frequencies. So I started trying single-ended designs with larger output tubes. First, with GM70 output tubes, then I assembled output monoblocks with GU48 tubes (a complete analogue of 833, but with a metal anode). The impressions from the evolution of output tubes are such that the more power dissipated at the anode, the more confident and full the system with these loudspeakers sounds. The output impedances of all three tube amplifier options were 0.65 ohms with the 300B tubes (special low Rout version), 0.8 ohms with the GM70, and 0.8 ohms with the GU48. The sound impressions increased with the increase in the power dissipated at the anode. Tube PP tube amplifiers did not fit into my preferences, the sound was not as interesting as with single-ended amplifiers. Since the NEM A300SE amplifier was little used, I converted it into a driver unit. To do this, all layers of the secondary winding were connected in series (instead of parallel connection, the heater voltage for 300B was rectified, the ripple of the anode voltage was also additionally suppressed. As a result, now there are two independent driver units, and two independent sets of output units. From listening experience, I can say, that for full sounding it is important to reduce the output impedance of the driver units (but not by using cathode followers). Both units use interstage transformers at the output. One driver unit has UO186 (YO186) tubes at the output and an interstage transformers with 2: 1 step down. Another driver unit is with 300B tubes at the output and a step-down interstage transformer 3 : 1 (this ratio has occured when the sections of the secondary winding were connected in series.) Now a completely harmonious sounding system has been created, and most importantly, all the attractiveness of the sound of single-ended tube amplifiers has been preserved.

Tube amplifiers with PMC EB1i speakers.jpg
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Fastening smaller drivers

What's the preferred means of fastening smaller drivers to an enclosure?

I have used t-nuts on midbass and tweeters, but I have come into some Visaton B80s. These have a 104.4mm frame diameter but the cutout needs to be 87mm.
Consequently a t-nut will not work without sticking out into the cutout - which concerns me for stability.

I guess small wood screws, but I'm concerned about maintainability if I need to remove the driver for any reason from an MDF baffle

Any alternatives?

Going down the simulation rabbit hole

I would like to gain a better understanding of the physics of box design. I've decided the best way to do this is to attempt to simulate the problem in various ways. The problem I'm finding myself in right now is that I don't fully understand how to characterize the problem, or where to start.

My thought right now is to start by learning how to break down a given geometry into lumped element analysis and simulate on spice or similar. From what I've gathered so far though, it seems that the geometry of the box is boiled down into just its volume.

I guess what I'd like to ask, for anybody that has gone down this path, or has experience with simulating accoustics is for suggestions on reference material to understand the math that I'm working with, and how it's derived. I'd like to go about this in the most open-source way that I can, so it can be felt available to anyone else that has an obsessive curiosity.

My background is in software engineering, and I did some split step optics simulations in grad school.

Thanks for any input.

  • Poll Poll
Group Buy: custom SB Acoustics pure midrange or coaxial

What midrange would you buy?

  • 5” midrange based on SB15CAC

  • 6” midrange based on SB17CAC

  • 5” coaxial midrange based on SB15CAC

  • 6” coaxial midrange based on SB17CAC

  • I like the CAC cone

  • I want black (NBAC)

  • I want one of the soft cones eg. Norex, polypropylene, carbon

  • I want a bigger coaxial (8-10”)

  • I don’t need a 5-6” midrange… what SB currently offer is fine.

  • Is this really happening?! When’s the ETA? Shut up and take my money!


Results are only viewable after voting.

Suppose for a moment that much of the R&D is done; thanks to the hard working folks at SB Acoustics, @USXX and @5th element

What custom midrange would you buy from SB Acoustics?

The basics-
This will be a 4 ohms, high sensitivity pure midrange.
The sensitivity will be ~93dB/2.83V.
It will capable of ~200Hz to over 8KHz.

Here’s how you can play a part in making this a reality.

First, put ONE vote to nominate the size of your midrange, or coaxial, custom made for you.
(Options 1-4)

For your second vote- please choose an alternate cone eg. NBAC (black aluminium cone), or if you prefer, one of the other cones eg. paper, Norex, polypropylene, carbon.

And finally- add any comments and queries after you vote. All are welcome!

Edit 1:
-If you want to get in the group buy, then vote!
-But if you have no intention of buying, please refrain from voting.
-Please place only 1 vote from options 1-4. The forum software doesn’t stop you from making dummy votes eg. 2 votes for options 5 and upwards. But then your vote doesn’t add any strength towards the group buy. This is an Expression of Interest to buy, NOT a Wishlist!
- I don’t make promises I can’t follow through on. But I am practical- will a manufacturer make 10 pairs with exclusive gold plated cones? Err…
But a single product that hits hundreds of votes? This is very possible. So talk to me if you have a need for 300 13” subwoofers…
— pricing and pre-orders will be announced at a later date…
- will you get to see some pretty graphs? Of course!

Crown AB+B Topology

Back in 1968 Gerald Stanley of Crown patented class AB+B (US3493879A High power high fidelity solid state amplifier) this topology made Crown a huge success used in the DC series, grounded bridge, D series and still in use today...

I see the pre-driver and drivers (high ft devices) run in class AB and the main output devices (slower ft, more rugged) run in a class B when wattage goes over a certain level. Also the output devices are closely matched on VBE and hfe. I see it's a three deep darlington circuit.

The question is does the drivers and pre drivers continue to conduct when the last output devices switch on to fill in the near zero crossing to minimize crossover distortion? I've heard the outputs act like boosters. Surley running in class B would increase harmonic distortion? but I also notice Gerald Stanley was very clever with negative feedback, global and nested also using advance phase techniques to get the THD figures very, very low (as in the D150 and DC300). (I note that because of the high negative feedback the mid-range frequencies sounds very hard, brittle).

Thanks

Pro woofers with high-end hifi specs

Drivers that are good enough to leave no practical reason to upgrade in the future. For outright detail and dynamics at moderate volume levels, with enough extension to satisfy most music. Are pro components available that would compete with top consumer products like Excel and Revelator?

FaitalPRO seems to have a number of 12-18 inch drivers with relatively low mms, high Qms, smooth response, and unusually low Rms, such as the 12PR320, 15FH520, and 18FH500. All priced very reasonably if ordered from Europe.

Are these still lacking compared to the best consumer drivers? Are there other examples of exceptional professional components?

Would I be better off forgetting the high efficiency components and going with something like the SB34NRXL75-8?

I wish I could try them all, but spending many thousands on speaker drivers is not feasible.

Who is doing Linux / DSP / multi-amplification (multi channel)?

Hello,

I consider designing and building a board fill the gap between a Linux streamer, CamillaDSP and Class D amplifier modules. Same functionnal use case normally as Motu, Okto Dac8, Topping DM7... but simpler, cheaper and open. It would be TDM (multi channel I2S) input to 8 x differential analog outputs, to fill the gap between a Linux streamer (any Single Board Computer (SBC) similar to RaspberryPi, but with TDM), CamillaDSP (for ex) and multi-channel Class D amplifier modules. Core could be an AK4458 (or similar).

I wonder if this is a "niche use case" interesting only few of us or if we are more than that.

I would be happy to hear about people having this type of set-up, and what it is composed of. If there could be some interest for a multi-channel DAC bridging a Linux SBC to balanced In Amplifiers...

Criterias:
  • source is a Linux SBC (not sure Windows machines or Mac can expose/control TDM interface,
  • filtering is done with DSP,
  • each speaker driver is powered by a dedicated amplifier,
  • those are not off the shelf active speakers.

Additional question: are the amplifiers boxeed together near the streamer? Or more an "active speaker topology" with amplifiers near each speaker?

Me:
  • RPi with Moode,
  • CamillaDSP for room correction,
  • USB2I2S Asynch board,
  • 2xDIY TAS3251 NeatAmp amplifiers, each one driving a speaker. Each TAS3251 implements the LX-Mini Crossover in its internal DSP,
  • LX-Mini
  • I groupped in the same box the Meanwell power supply, the USB2I2S Asynch board, and the 2xNeatAmps. A cable with 2 pairs to drive the LX-Minis.
Hope to hear from you.
Best regards,

JMF

Nota: not clear to me what is the best forum for that question as it is "system oriented": streamer/DAC/DSP/Speakers/DIY. I posted a similar question on AudioScienceReview.
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Aragon 47k Schematics?

Hi guys.

Does anyone have a schematic for the Aragon 47k? I know it is simple (I own one) but I am too lazy to go through and identify every part in there.

One channel is a bit down in gain it seems (about 3dB) so I am going to gut it and rebuild it with 'boutique' parts for 'gits and shiggles'. It might even function when I get done with it... Seems like a simple enough project for my skill set (or lack thereof).

I would also appreciate any tips or tricks I should know if you were going to undertake this project. Such as replacing any component values etc. Otherwise, it will be a straight rebuild. (just better quality and tighter tolerance)

Anyone?

No sound just static/hum on brand new input selector. Please help

Hello, I need some help please - this thing is driving me crazy. I have a brand new input selector that will not output any audio just loud static and hum even when turned off at the wall.
It's powered by a 12v torroid which isn't connected to anything other than a bulb tester.
On the board there is a 2x12v AC power connection, a bridge rectifier, a voltage regulator with 5V output, diodes and caps. Everything tests ok. The voltage regulator on the board is a L7805 and not the same as in the picture which I took from the sellers website. Sorry everyone for the confusion.
Input is 3.5mm jack from my phone output is via selector switch to a 3.5mm jack connected to a small Class D amp module. I am using the copper cable shield as ground.
There is no ground on the selector, just 12v and 0V and the amp module has a floating ground. Any help very appreciated.

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Configuration of the ES9038Q2M for synchronous operation

Hi,

I am working on design, that uses ES9038Q2M as auxiliary DAC chip. I am attempting to run its in synchronous mode, however it is constantly misbehaving.

The system is as follows:
-MCLK is 22.5792/24.576MHz, delivered from low jitter clock distribution directly to the DAC chip.
-Signal source is on board XU208, LRCK and BCLK are delivered directly to DAC chip via short, impedance matched traces (signal integrity is perfect, as far as my 500MHz scope can measure).
-Interface is set to 32 bit I2S.

I am attempting following configuration:
-In register 10, I am setting 128fs mode bit to enabled
-Register 12 is set to 0 (DPLL disabled)
-Register 1 is set to 0xC0 (32 bit input, standard I2S mode, force fixed input type, input type SERIAL)
-Register 6 is set to 0x00 (linear phase fast roll-off filter), but leaving it on default values have no effect
-Register 15 and 16 are set to 0x00 (full volume).
-Register 14 is set to enable soft start and begin outputting analog signal.

During sample rate changes, I am attempting to set Reg 0 CLK_GEAR to value that always matches 128*fs relationship, that is:
-0b10 for 44.1/48ksps
-0b01 for 88.2/96ksps
-0b00 for 192/176.4ksps

However, resultant DAC behavior is clearly abnormal, that is - produced spectral response is completely skewed.

For 44.1/48, both distortion and bandwidth are excellent:
1.png
2.jpg


However, for any higher sample rate, two problems appear. First, the bandwidth fall to -3db at 20kHz, second - massive aliasing appears out of band:
3.jpg
4.png


So, I have realized i have not set ASRC disable bit in the register 27. I have done so, and it caused even worse problems.
At 44.1ksps, there is no gain loss at 20kHz, however - noise floor is massively elevated, and 0dbfs output became limited to -20db.
5.jpg
6.jpg


At 192ksps, we still have aliases and too fast roll-off, along with reduced full scale amplitude.
7.jpg


So, as a next step, I have decided to disable clock gearing and leave it at 0b00 (full input clock frequency) regardless of sample rate.
Now, at 44.1ksps, noise floor is elevated, 0dbfs is limited by 20db, and there is roll-off at 20khz.
8.jpg
9.jpg
10.jpg


At 192ksps, 0dbfs point of DAC is still reduced by 20db, noise floor is still elevated, but there is no drop at 20kHz and no aliasing:
12.jpg
11.jpg


Lacking any idea what this chip tries to do, I have decided to leave clock gear fixed at 0b00, but enable ASRC (reg 27 bit 7 set to 1).

Now, at 192ksps everything works properly. No elevated noise floor, no 20kHz drop, no aliases and 0dbfs input produces full scale on DAC output.

13.jpg
14.jpg


But on 44.1ksps, while all other problems disappear, 20kHz drops have appeared.
15.jpg
16.jpg


Honestly, I am stumped. Does anyone have experience with implementing synchronous mode in this chip, and can suggest what I am missing?
I am happy to provide any additional information. 🙂

Best regards

Onetics output transformer liquidation SALE

Im liquidating all my Onetics Single ended Output transformer for 45,2a3, 300b for both level 1 and level 2. I have a few pairs remaining for each tube levels. The transformers are already discounted from the original price and I will give a 5% for multiple orders. They will be sold in pairs. All are new and never used. Will be shipped from Chicago
Please send me offers if interested: email is ivardlr@gmail.com


45 opt- level 1 is $300.00 for the pair— SOLD OUT
45 opt- level 2 is $600.00 for the pair—SOLD OUT

2a3 opt- level 1 is $270.00 for the pair shipped in US only—1 pairs left
2a3 opt- level 2 is $530.00 for the pair shipped in US only—SOLD OUT

300b opt-level 1is $250.00 for the pair— SOLD OUT
300b opt-level 2 is $550.00 for the pair— SOLD OUT

Please refer to this thread for the specs: for sale onetics 2a3, 300b, 45 SET output transformer


Thanks

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QUAD 707 Design documents

I found that some fans are changing the model of quad405.
Use MOSFET. Or parallel output transistors. In fact, this is not feasible.
If you are interested. You can study the quad707 model I designed.
It uses six NPN output transistors.
In addition, I need to add. I don't produce them.
Or sell them. Because it was made in 2012. It has a history of ten years.
But I have never sold them. Because I don't feel satisfied with it.
If anyone is interested. They can be produced and tested. We can communicate with each other
You can download PCB documents. Direct production.

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Easy to carry outdoor audio using mobile battery (Hi-Res and DSD support)

Smart Phone, Class D Amp, Dongle DAC, 2.5inch speaker with mobile battery.

Smart Phone : Xperia Ace III(4,500mAh)
DAC : TempoTec Sonata BHD Pro
AMP : SMSL A50
Battery : Llano PBL1(20,000mAh)
Cable : Trigger Cable(20V, 5A)
Driver : Wavecor FR070WA01
Box : HB-06F-ML

The DAC is powered by the smartphone, while the amplifier is driven by 20V.
It is capable of more than 8 hours of continuous playback.

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More progress on my 5.1 system

I finished building the rear channels this week, and tested them all out. The front panel arrived from Modushop in Italy, so I mounted that today with the knobs and lcd. Yesterday I build the Dolby digital decoder board that uses a STA310 chip. On the weekend I’ll build the DAC and the microprocessor board. So hopefully within a week I’ll see if I can decode Dolby digital.

It’s been a super rewarding project so far, and most important, the LM3886 based amplifiers sound awesome.

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Low power classAB BJT amp CFP driver transistors

New to BJT and currently experimenting with CFP output stages . Currently using BD139-16/BD140-16 with BD911/BD912 but wondering what else is out there to go in place of the BDs , which appear to be overkill in my application . It's a low power design class AB , single supply Vcc 22V , which may eventually be pushed towards 30V . The amp only needs a handful of watts for my application . I have plenty of BC327.40 and BC337.40 and was considering these . Will I be able to get away with a TO92 device or need to go for something more substantial ?

cheers

Ferrofluid: dull or bright?

I’ve read many threads about ferrofluid used in tweeters. Still, I cannot conclude the fact about it. Moreover, the more I read, the more I am confused. So, I decided to frankly ask here again for clarification and being useful for people who are reading this in 2023.

What’s the effect of tweeters having dried out ferrofluid? Will they create “dull” or “brighter” sound?

Some threads suggested it should be “dull” as the ferrofluid also has some magnetic property, loosing it will decrease total magnetic strength of the driver—summation of magnetic power between permanent magnet and ferrofluid. So the sensitivity of the driver is decreased. HOWEVER, some people stated that the ferrofluid is the “damping” material, loosing it will increase the sensitivity of the driver.

Please clarify the fact

For Sale Elsinore MK 6 NRX in Germany

Hello,
here I like to offer my first attempt to construct the Elsinore speakers, a pair of MK6 with the NRX speakers and the coresponding crossover.
I build a second pair with the Purify speakers. Both have there personal character, but with a front of Panzersperrholz the second attempt suits more my taste.
The pair I offer is made of medium density chipboard (internal, front and back), the corpus made of beech multiplex.
Front and back show olive veneer, the colour is silver gray, obviously easy to change.
The finih is not perfect, I struggled a little bit with the veneer. But for an amateur I guess they are more than okay,
The socket is 25 cm high and contains the crossover.

I guess it is not neccessary to describe the sound, they are for sure extremly good and naturally sounding, imaging is extraordinary..

Actually I use these speakers in a 23 m² room with very good succes, the first room I used them in the past shows about 60 m².

Due to private circumstances, I am going to loose the 60 m², split with my friend, so I have one spare pair of Elsinores.

They are big, they are heavy, I didn't weight them, but I guess more than 50 kg each speaker.

I like to ask 950 €, a bargain looking on the 1700 € material and 100 hours of time I invest. You will surely find no speaker with a similar pricetag sounding nearly that good.

A grain of salt, only for someone who is able to pick them up at my home in Nuremberg, a good opportunity for listening to them.

If you won't listen to them at my home I am willing to help with the transport, my car has sufficient space. So this is debatable.

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Help with Buzz Noise

Hello Everyone,

I'm having some buzz noise issues from my power amp just out of the blue, and need some advice to solve this.

The problem may be from the TIP31 transistor at the driver stage.
When I use my fingers to hold the casing of the transistor, the buzz noise greatly reduced to almost not audible (still there unless I place my ear right next to the speaker driver), but once I let go, the buzz noise comes back.
This problem happens to both channels.
The buzz noise stays at the same level even when I turn the volume to max, and don't seem to be bad soldering as the amp still plays apart from the buzz noise.

The complementary TIP32 don’t seem the have the same issue.

Anyone had similar problem before?

Volume Control with Loudness and no Taps

Hi! Anyone have schematic for passive volume control with loudness compensation and 250-500K potentiometer without taps? Tapped pots are very problematic to obtain today unless ordered in quantity 100+ directly from factory.

I found schematic on Steve Bench web site (attached to this post), but I have no idea of its origin. In the books I have there are schematics, but ALL use tapped potentiometers.

Thanks in advance for any suggestion(s).

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Fosgate 600 4 channel

After repairing my bd1000 with Perry’s help and finding it fun I decided to get a few broke amps on eBay and give them a go. 600.4 board 3085-a

Broke rcas replaced. Played audio at this point but only tested for a few seconds. One buz fet was physically chipped. Replaced all outputs with 540/9540’s. Replaced all source resistors as a few looked burnt. Set bias using 50ma increase method per channel. Idles at 1.2a (1.0a with all pots fully ccw)

Amp plays across all channels individually at low volumes. When testing it drew about 2-3a. It will randomly cut out for 1-2 min and come back on its own. Power light stays on. Rail-rail voltage drops to 20v. Input power drops to 0.5a. Once I cycled the remote off/on and it came back to its failed state. While probing my hand slipped and ended up burning 2 psu fets on same side.

With the blown irf1010e cut out I limped the amp along to see if I could get it to cut out again. It happened once or twice then eventually not at all. By now the amp is warm. Maybe the warmer it is the less likely it will cut out? Or the fets that burnt were part of the cut out issue too.

I’m going to replace all 3 psu fets on the burnt side and probably the other side as well. Maybe when it cools overnight it will cutout for longer to give me a chance to poke around more.

Is there a likely cause? What can cause rail voltages to drop, and stay symmetric, without excess current draw ?

Hornresp manual

Here is a small hornresp manual. If you can now use it, just download it. Unfortunately, it is translated from Swedish with google translate so there may be errors due to the translation. There is also an error on page 23 the image in the middle should not be included.

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Conversion from Level Dependent to Level Independent Loudness Effect - what Rules ?

First a merry christmas weekend for everyone.

Mostly usual in integrated amplifiers is a level dependent loudness effect - for this an attenuator with tap in the first third or quarter of a 270 degree potentiometers is necessary - go to
https://vajacases46-com.myshopify.com/products/radioshack-100k-dual-ganged-stereo-volume-control
and
Using tap potentiometer loudness circuit under Meter Counter Circuits -60631- : Next.gr

But there are to accept two great disadvantages:
1) If there are low level or very high level input sources at the integrated amplifier, there is no possibility of moving this tap, i. e., the effect of the midrange attenuation is too weak or too strong.
2) If there is necessary the replacing of that pot, no genuine part is available (except an identical amp model is present for spare parts), i. e. with usual three-pin pot the loudness option isn't longer available.

By checking some service manuals of integrated amplifiers for a helpful solution, I note, that Luxman's R5030 used at least an additional loudness potentiometer for adjusting resp. for the stepless setting of the loudness effect resp. the midrange attenuation - go to page 15 under
LUXMAN R-5030 SM Service Manual download, schematics, eeprom, repair info for electronics experts
Yamaha's AX-570 does the same, but without a tap on the volume attenuator resp. volume control pot - go to
YAMAHA AX-570 SM Service Manual download, schematics, eeprom, repair info for electronics experts
and
https://web.archive.org/web/20210623113458/https://www.schematicsforfree.com/archive/file/Audio/Circuits/Equalizers, Filters & Tone Controls/Loudness Controls/APEX Loudness Control.jpg
Unfortunately the loudness characteristic resp. the individual cut-off frequencies are different at all brands - each manufacturer use his own concept therefore.

After the long preface, now the question:

Which details do I have to pay attention to when converting the level dependent loudness circuit from Luxman's L190 - go to
LUXMAN L-190A Service Manual download, schematics, eeprom, repair info for electronics experts
to level independent loudness like from Yamaha's AX-570 while maintaining of the characteristic resp. the individual cut-off frequencies for the attenuated midrange of Luxman's L190 ?

If I know this, I order a usual pot without tap for loudness and I would then use the balance control potentiometer for the loudness control, because the balance control isn't absolutely necessary by the currently user.

Thank you very much for an advice and appropriate links.

Level-dependent loudness approaches

switched version - one position (loudness on/off) increasing low and high frequency area at low volume level - 4-pin (tapped) pot in use

https://www.extron.de/article/loudnesscontrol_ts
https://www.extron.com/article/loudnesscontrol_ts
http://kit-amp.com/alps-rk27-volume-control-loudness-en
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/loudness-tap-in-old-audio-potentiometers/ (reply #8)
https://www.angelfire.com/electronic/funwithtubes/Amp-Volume.html
https://www.eleccircuit.com/audio-loudness-control/

switched version - one position (loudness on/off) increasing only low frequency area at low level volume - 4-pin (tapped) pot in use
https://elektrotanya.com/luxman_l-190a.pdf/download.html

switched version - one position (loudness on/off) increasing only low frequency area at low level volume - 3-pin (no tapped) pot in use
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/volume-control-with-loudness-and-no-taps.173029/ (post #10)
https://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/gehoerrichtige_lautataerkeregelung_mit_potis_ohne_anzapfungen.html

unswitched version with two-tapped potentiometer
https://elektrotanya.com/grundig_sv-2000_gb_u.pdf/download.html
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/modifications-to-loudness-circuit.317194/ (post #7)

unswitched version - increasing low and high frequency area at low level volume - 3-pin (no tapped) pot in use
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/how-preserve-loudness-circuit-with-new-volume-pot.189463/ (post #7)
http://www.dl4cs.de/audio/preamps/loudness/index.htm

Variable loudness version with triplet potentiometer
https://www.worldradiohistory.com/h...Electronics-1951-07-OCR-Page-0041.pdf#search="build%20variable%20loudness%20control"
https://www.worldradiohistory.com/Archive-Radio-Electronics/50s/1953/Radio-Electronics-1953-10.pdf (pg. 42)

Level-independent variable loudness approaches:
https://web.archive.org/web/2021062...s/Loudness Controls/APEX Loudness Control.jpg
https://elektrotanya.com/yamaha_ax-530.pdf/download.html (Loudness of Yamaha's AX530 identical to APEX Loudness)
https://www.hifiengine.com/news/yamaha-a-960-ii.shtml (Yamaha A-960 II)
https://www.tubecad.com/2021/08/blog0542.htm
switched version - two positions increasing only low frequency area at low level - only switch in use
https://www.worldradiohistory.com/h...-IDX/IDX/50s/Audio-1958-Jan-OCR-Page-0024.pdf

commonly basics
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/loudness-stage.202413/
https://www.sfxmachine.com/docs/loudnesswar/loudness_war.pdf
https://www.next.gr/meter-counter/Using-tap-potentiometer-loudness-circuit-l60631.html (various topologies, overview)
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/loudness-stage.202413/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...and-single-d-shaft-custom-made-or-not.396070/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/variable-loudness-diy-for-noob.381420/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/loudness-experiences.77599/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/reverse-of-the-old-loudness-control.154209/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/volume-control-with-loudness-and-no-taps.173029/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/faking-a-loudness-tap.294388/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/loudness-circuit-modification.361845/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/loudness-control.30290/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/loudness-controls.214490/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/loudness-stage.202413/
https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?p=854290
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...-control-do-any-integrateds-have-this.423382/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/variable-loudness.496773/
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...one-control-especially-the-schiit-loki.17996/

Loudness Meter
https://web.archive.org/web/20120404192304/https://www.grimmaudio.com/pro_software_levelview.htm
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