Looking for the service manual for the Marantz AV550

I’m looking for a decent supply for 3e Audio TPA3255 board. Let me know what you have. Thanks.

HI, does anyone have Solidworks ? I have found 3D object for some Dayton drivers, and if you can convert them so I can use them in ( FreeCAD, Blender ) would be awesome.

Hello, I recently acquired my brother's Technics SL-D2 Direct Drive Turntable. Upon powering up the unit, the platter is spinning too fast (any record sounds like Alvan & the Chipmonks). The moving the 33 / 45 switch as no effect & strobe Sync light is on and is steady. The pitch control knob has no effect on slowing down the platter. I've have used contact cleaner on the switch and pitch control to clean the contacts, with no impact. Any ideas?

Hi,
I want to work a DIY network streamer including its power supply. The power supply consists of 2 toroidal transformers (1) 12 V output (2) 6 V output. I'm in US, so the input voltage will be 110-117V. I have been able to understand all the connections from the transformer output to the digital audio output.
One place however I am not getting much headway is how to safely connect the transformers to the AC Mains so that (1) I minimize the chances of any shocks during development phase (2) How to handle grounding from AC Mains (3) What is the right and safe way to measure voltage across the outputs of the transformer when connected to AC mains (4) Where to use a fuse if the AC mains has a surge?

Any help would be really appreciated.

Fs pair of FO m.Amps are in use and in perfect contition with original.boxes.
Price per.pair 180€ + pp fees+ shipping costs

From https://neurochrome.com/pages/output-power#parallelBridgeBoth:

"Do note that when connecting two LM3886es in parallel, ballast resistors must be used to ensure that the two LM3886es share the load current evenly. Also note that the input voltage offset difference between the two LM3886es causes a standing current to flow through the ballast resistors. This standing current must be minimized to avoid excessive THD even at moderate output power levels. To accomplish this, the input offset of each LM3886 must be minimized, preferably using a DC servo thereby increasing the complexity of the circuit considerably."

I therefore wonder how bad will the standing current will be in the below schematics? Is servo absolutely necessary or I can do without?

Help much appreciated!

HI,

After my first DIY streamer I'm looking for new components to build my new x86 based version for windows system.


I already have 3 touch displays 7", 8.8" and 12.6" tested under Windows 11 and they work fine. I also already have 2 audio power supplies, linear and low noise (the first 12V 120w, the second 5V 50w)

In my project I'd like insert, inside the new case (WIP), the SMSL D0300 DAC (already tested with excellent results) and the power supply. All connection ports will be replicated on a rear panel of the case. Also I already have a mini PC Intel Celeron 5105 8Gb Ram and 256Gb of storage space. Unfortunately this mini pc has a small fan inside and it works fine because it has that fan. From my personal research on the web, all high-performance fanless mini PCs have problems because when the temperature rises it causes system freezes or slowdowns, in particular the wifi module blocking.

Is there a tested list of components that we can use inside our case? It must be considered that including the internal power supply, the touch display and the DAC, these give a great contribution to the heat growth and this is a big problem for the most performing fanless CPUs...

What choices would you make for the mini PC components? Whereas all the parts included in the case (HIFI FORMAT) will be stripped of their individual boxes/cases

Thanks

I recently ordered a pair of "Black plate JAN Raytheon 5842WA" tubes from thetubestore (Canada) to me in the USA.

They were supposed to be delivered to me on last Monday June 19, and the status at UPS showed out for delivery.

However they never arrived. Then on Tuesday UPS tracking showed a cryptic message that implied the package was in my town and out for delivery. On Wednesday it showed it was not in my town, but at a distribution center. The UPS web site bot couldn't resolve it so I texted thetubestore and got a reply from Hydn that they would look into it.

I eventually took the tracking number to my local UPS store and they advised me that due to a UPS screw up they seemed to be held up in Louisville KY customs. This was Thursday.

Mid day Friday I got a email from Haydn stating they would send me a replacement package.

I emailed back they could wait until Monday to see if UPS resolved it.

They went ahead and sent the replacement package any way.

I received both packages Monday in the same delivery and informed (thetubestore) then.

They sent me a return shipper and associated paper work for the return of the second package,which I dropped off at a UPS store today (Monday).

This is exceptional service from a company which stands behind their customers and provides a great level of support. I highly recommend them.

hello,

I speak only about light apparatus not amplifiers : On stage, are you housing your effects in abs or wood flight case ?

Hello Everybody 🙂
I would greatly appreciate any thoughts/guidelines/know how with regards to the issue herein:
So, I received a BEOLIT15 BT speaker that broke down.
Being such an expensive speaker, I decided to try and fix it.
The BEOLIT15 incorporates a BT module (BTM865a) with a CSR8670 chip, which is also used as the speaker's host.
As it turns out, the module suffered some kind of damage and did not power up at all. Any attempt to access the module using CSR's PSTool or BlueFlash failed.

Since there was no other choice, I reached out to a seller of mine and he helped me obtain used BT modules identical to the one that broke down.
I then removed the inoperative BT module, installed the replacement and used a dump image to reprogram the module. I changed the BT address and managed to connect to PC/smartphone

Nevertheless, the speaker currently has a problem:
Since the dump file used has been extracted from a similar device operating from the same smartphone, the BEOPLAY app is unable to register and operate both speakers. There is most probably an additional key besides the BT_ADDR that has to be changed, but I have no idea what it is

I did ask B&O for some help...but was not surprised when there was no answer 🙁

If you stumbled across a similar scenario and may know which PSKey could solve this issue thereby allowing the BT to be registered correctly by the app. please be so kind to drop me a reply (Please note that regardless of the app - the speaker does connect to the phone's Bluetooth and plays music)

I will add the PSKey dump to the thread
Thank you so much for your time and apologies for the lengthy letter
/Indium

Headphone amp for Sennheiser HD 560S (120 ohm) using readily available and cheap Toroidal transformers for power supply. A 50VA 55 + 55 volt with series connection for 110volts is sufficient and the filaments can be driven from an 80VA toroidal with 12Volts via LM317 regulators. The distortion (Simulated but not measured) is of the order of 0.04% at 10khz and mainly second at 1 Volt out. Power supply noise is un-auditable. The amp will run into 60 ohms ok but the distortion goes up a little. Sounds excellent.

I built a mini speaker using FOSTEX's best full range FF85WK ever.
Although it is small, it ensures the minimum necessary bass, and can be used for almighty with natural mid and high range.

The enclosure is made of 9mm thick MDF wood, and the finishing is done with vinyl sheets.
The total material cost for the enclosure amounts to $11.

I´m recapping an old organ amp. It sounds awesome...
Unfortunately it uses extremely rare tubes....But ill look into that later 😉

There are 5 big electrolytics

two 100uf+100uf
three 50uf +50 uf

so the dual type filter caps

It is a bit confusing to me, that these dual caps only have two solderlugs?
Usually, dual capacitors have 3, right?

Kind regards, Kasper

I bought this "xh-m210" tda7293 board from aliexpress tried connecting it in parallel, sound gets distorted and start to get hot really fast.
1. How can I connect it in parallel?
2. How can you make this board better/ sound better?

What is the downside to a "hybrid" SACD? I don't do SACD and never will, only CD.

It seems that somehow the laser on an ordinary CD player like mine somehow shines through the SACD layer and hits the deeper CD layer instead. How is it possible that there isn't going to be some sort of degredation as the CD player's laser shines through something that isn't completely transparent?

Are both layers made with dyes or is the CD layer made with old-fashioned CD pits and lands and deposited aluminum? I have had poor experience with CDs made with dyes over the years. They degrade and have inferior sound quality in my opinion. Your mileage may vary.

Hi, have a music angle with 4 KT88 tubes. But when i turned it on an evening, one tube flashed and i turned it off.I opened the amp but realised quickly that this is a complete new world for me, this is my first tube amp.but i did not see any burned parts. so my question is, do i rip all the internal out and buid a complete new amp or is it worth trying to find the fault that destroyed my tube? i have understand that there is many versions of the music angel. i have not found any pics on google thas looks like mine. And i also want to remove the preamp section on the amp. i want is as a clean power amp. But can i turn the amp on without the tubes and meassure the different voltages on the channels? to see the different voltages, if thats was the issue that killed my tube, if it is killed. i dont know tubes that well. can a tube survive something like the problem i describe? can i meassure the tubes with a multimeter to check if its ok?

Hi, thanks to many of you who helped me design and build my C3G drives 45B monoblocks. I really enjoy them and most surprisingly, I rarely drive them into overload using my 90db efficient speakers (Ilumnia Magisters). The Magisters really excel with the DHT amps. So smooth and natural.

The attached schematic is of the existing monoblocks. I am considering replacing the C3G with a DHT, such as the 10Y. If you have any experience with both the C3G and the 10Y as driver tubes, please share you opinion on the sonic differences. I am curious to learn what sonic changes would accompany the 10Y driver. I am open to DHT alternatives to the 10Y.

Any input would be appreciated.

Pat

SOLD

I have a Cardas Golden Cross XLR IC (I think it is a pre-2004 model, please see attached picture)

Now I want to solder it to RCA jack. It has 6 color small wires and 2 shields.

Please guide me how to solder wires to the RCA jack
Many thanks

Wow, these are a lot bigger than I envisioned. Of course, each came in its own box, and each box was 100 lbs. Good packing materials. Excellent paint jobs.

On first hearing, very impressive.

john

Hello all , I was wondering if there's any body on this site that can recommend a toggle switch for input switching. I've searched and can't find any results ....it needs to be able to go through a 10mm face place. All the one that I've found are too short. If the bushing was 0.75 inches it would be ok.

Hi all, I am having a hard time finding high quality recordings of jazz and blues that I like on CD. I love the great artists like B.B. King, Albert King, and John Lee Hooker. Also looking for any other recommendations based on my likes and notes listed below:

• Even though it isn't what some would consider an ideal recording environment, I find that the recordings of John Lee Hooker and Albert King on the CD "I'll Play the Blues for You" (Tomato Records) are pretty good in that they do give a "you are there" experience inside a small club with live music. I like that very much.
• B.B. King's "Live at the Apollo" CD has been a favorite of mine for a while. I do prefer live recordings when possible.
• Jazz at the Pawnshop is another favorite CD.
• The Leon Thomas Blues Band CD that I bought in the 1990's is a good recording, and I like the music. I wish they had recorded it live.
• Even though they are very early and somewhat harsh all-digital recordings, I like Tunnel and Big Notes by Flim and the BB's. I wish they had been recorded on analog equipment instead of very early digital, but back then (early 1980's) all-digital was sold and hyped as the best thing since sliced bread. It wasn't, as demonstrated by so many of the CDs of that era.
• I own all of the CDs from Sheffield Labs except the ones that are classical music. Although much of their music is oddball stuff, they always did a decent job of recording I thought.

Any and all recommendations welcome. I'm having a hard time finding new music CDs to listen to on my recently upgraded system. I am looking for CD only, no streaming or vinyl at this point. I miss the days (1980's) when I could walk into high-end audio shops and almost immediately find new CDs that I liked as they played them on demo systems. One by one, every such store anywhere near me has closed over the decades.

Wanted: genuine Toshiba 2SJ201 2SK1530.

Had bought some from Metari shop in Germany, but unfortunately the 2SJ201's are counterfeit and defect.

Am looking for 2 pair to build an M2.

Thanks 🙏

Tweeter low voice
HV terminal output 230vdc,
How much is the truth at this point?
Some body have full schemetic.
Thank forward.

The speakers I am working on are tall and skinny.
I need some extra stability for just in case reasons. Where on earth can I get a set of decent short extension legs to add the needed stability to a tall tower?
Being able to adjust the rear height to tilt the towers would be a nice added extra/bonus.
I'm in Oz so local would be great due to the hindrance of International shopping at the moment

Hi everyone,
I've been a pro audio bench tech for about 20 years now and I play in an R&B/blues band as well. Looking forward to posting and chatting!

“The music business is a cruel and shallow money trench, a long plastic hallway where thieves and pimps run free, and good men die like dogs. There's also a negative side.”
― Hunter S. Thompson

Sale of this item is withdrawn


This is a I2S to simultaneous mode TDA1541 dac board designed by Miro. Your own PSU and i2s source is required to complete this DAC for it to sing.

The 14 decoupling caps for the TDA1541 chip are high quality RIFA MKP, with values as per Miro's recommended BOM. Decoupling caps for the psu are KEMET MKP, and electrolytics are mainly Nichicon FG for the DAC section and ELNA Cerafine for the op amp IV. Resistors used are good low noise, metal films from Nikohm, vishal and Dale. Logic chips are decoupled with high quality Kemet SMD x7r capacitors.

The DC protection board is also included in this sale.

This dac is designed by Miro and more info can be found here :
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...s-input-nos-r-2r.354078/page-268#post-7159210

Miro also designed the PSU for this dac (not included in this sale):
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...s-input-nos-r-2r.354078/page-268#post-7159234
Please study the power supply requirement carefully if you intend to use your own psu design.

Important things to note :
1. If you intend to have no capacitor at the output, it is advisable to have a dc protection board (included in this sale) as explained in the post:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...s-input-nos-r-2r.354078/page-285#post-7187720
2. i have trimmed the TDA1541 offsets to be null and very stable. Any changes to the board, including inserting different op amp and different TDA1541 chip will require adjustments again. Please do check and do necessary adjustments by following the instructions by Miro. You will need to explore this on your own, with your i2s source connected.
3. All components, including the TDA1541A chip are new, which is only used for the testing of this DAC. The exception is the pair of output op amp OPA604 which are old and used by me for previous projects.

Of course, the board has been tested and playing well. Price for the board is 250USD, including shipping worldwide registered. And as usual i will buy coffee for Miro.

Hi everyone!

About 6 or 7 years ago I bought 2 Brutus 2400.1D amplifiers for a project but only one of them was ever used, however due to an unlucky water leak in the car it shorted out and burned out several transistors. However while repairing it I decided to dust off the other amp, said and done I installed it in the car but when I fired the stereo up I got a loud thump from the sub after about 4-5 seconds (no music) and when I went to the trunk I found my dear sub locked in the bottom and the amp was in protect. Removed the amp from the car again and tried firing it up with only power wires and it fires up fine but the relays click back to off immediately after clicking on and amp goes into protect.

I have opened it up and am unable to find anything wrong with any power/output transistors, there is no apparent visual damage and it smells new still. I'm quite unsure where to start looking right now, any suggestions where to start?

Hello people,

I've just created an account on your forum, so nice to meet you.
I need your help guys about an old Marantz CD-73 CD player. In fact, when it reads a CD, you can ear a strange noise. It seems it comes from the motor or the lens but I'm not sure.

Click here to ear the noise

Have you ever had that kind of problem ?

Thanks

Hi everyone,

I got a question about the tannoy system 15 DMTII crossover.

The resistors for setting the tweeter level.
If i would make my own crossover.. can i only use the 6,8 ohms for a "level" position.
Or is the 6.8 always parallel to the 4.7 making it a 2.8r?
And the bass inductor.. does anybody have info about the dcr?

Cheers

After doing some research, it sounded like the first place (after checking ground cable) was to replace the two output capacitors. These are aluminium electrolytic capacitors. I managed to find identical capacitors from RS.

When dismantling the amplifier in the subwoofer, I found the transistors were stuck to the chassis. Left some WD40 to soak over night and they came off.

Fortunately the capacitors were not overly glued, so they weren’t too bad to remove.

Happy to say this fixed the hum, and they now sound great again.

Selling the following:

Satori MW19TX-8 Pair: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275793653621

Seas M15CH002 Pair: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275793669236

Audax PR170Z0 Pair: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275793632879

Visaton BG20 Single: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275793662243

I am looking for an genuine TDA 1541 A or S1/2 , at an fair price

Thanks in advance

Fabrice

EDIT : found two of them for an fair price 😉

.

Hi Thanks for reading Is it okay to use safety capacitors ceramic x y type, in an amp power supply, in place of small film or aluminium electrolytic.
How do you think this may affect the psu
Also, i'm getting some dc on the mains which is causing my toroid to buzz, are there any transformer types that are not so affected by dc mains ofset

Hello I`m having some trouble to find a way to bypass the PD0050, so ideas for NON OS or lowering the Oversampling rate will be welcomed !
If i do use the data input LRC - DATA and BCLK the input format should be ? Any schematic will be quite handy ! Thanks !

Selling my Audio Note Lexus LX-96 Speaker cables.
The cables are different in size - 1 pair is 3 meters and the second is 2 meters. They were made specifically for me by the owner of Audiofilo in Valencia Spain - an official Audio Note reseller. Cables made in December 2021 so pretty much burnt in and are in perfect condition. Sale due to upgrade.






Sale price is 475 euros. Shipping to EU. I will also throw in spare silver jumpers I have in stock.

It is somewhat ironic that the owner of a brand new USB turntable with 6g tracking force is thinking of contactless playback, a playback system that will preserve records forever, however I hope you will forgive me for starting this discussion. It has been in my mind for several days, inspired by this picture of record needle and groove playback.

Login to view embedded media

Hello,

I receive my new pair of Bliesma M74B recently and would like to share some results.

While expensive I find that newcomer is a breakthrough in large dome medium driver for a long time. Hificompass did extensive measurements on those and all have been confirmed here also.

What I would like to share is the use of a passive twin filters (only two inductors and two capacitors to reduce somewhat the two main breakouts (around 13-17 kHz) of the beryllium dome.
You will notice that the two peaks are reduced by about 10 dB but more important is the reduced third and fifth distortion figures.

Of course at those frequencies, it is mandatory to measure exact values of the capacitors and adjust the inductance accordingly. I use 20 x 16 x 30 m coils that I found at a very low price on internet and 1 mm diameter enameled copper. I also use a RLC bridge to get values that were optimized via the wonderful VituixCAD software

The accidentally erased master tape of Steely Dan's 'The Second Arrangement' has resurfaced in the form of a well-preserved cassette and DAT tape. Steely Dan fans worldwide are in ecstasy after it's discovering:
https://www.theguardian.com/music/2...ow-steely-dan-fans-uncovered-their-holy-grail
The complete story and song can be read and listened to here:
https://expandingdan.substack.com/p...an-roger-nichols-tape#§the-digital-audio-tape
Also, the tapes will go on auction to cover the costs of the studio work to get it digitized.
Enjoy..

The maximum output power (clipping) is 14W (when the screen consumption of FU50 is 37W), the damping coefficient is around 4-5 (although I think damping is not important, this is another topic), the distortion of 5W is about 0.5%, and the distortion of 10W is about 1.8%The red font on the circuit represents the working points measured in practice. So this circuit has these characteristics:-Maximize the scope for selection and management to reduce opportunities for JS to hype specific models-Open loop circuit, more friendly to output transformer-More combinations and combinations for easy gallbladder replacement fun-Minimize the use of transistors as much as possible, facilitate construction, and be friendly to beginners. Because in fact, both stacked and unordered can be partially replaced with JFET or MOS transistors. However, there are not many opportunities to purchase genuine products domestically, and MOS is even less friendly to beginners in welding and installation. Nevertheless, it is still unavoidable to use MOS transistors for voltage reduction in the grid grid power supply.-Try to use impedance compatible output transformers for easy modification of old machines.-Try to use self-sufficient bias to facilitate direct replacement of power tubes. Still, I do not object to the modification. If possible, you can change it to a fixed bias for self-sufficiency, but please also modify the power supply voltage together.-Regarding C3, it also affects low-frequency transients and frequency responses, and if possible, you can try it yourself. The implementation uses a 4.7uF capacitor.-Regarding the feedback quantity, R14=470K is a moderate feedback quantity. If a resistance value between 330K and 430K is used, there will be more changes and distortion will be reduced. Let's try it out for yourself.

Hi, I am running two of these modules at +-60v and the bias current from cold is 60mA per rail is this too high?

Hi guys,
I was wondering if any might have a schematic for an old Fosgate PR250 amplifier (70s vintage)? I recently picked up a couple of them, as I recall they sounded great and had a novel amplifier circuit. They did break a lot though. I'll probably replace the amp portion with a chip-amp.
thanks,
Leo Smith

I wanted to bypass the horrible ESS DAC in my Oppo BDP105 to play through my tried and true RME DAC.

Are there any plug and play solutions to do this?

Do these look okay? They are not very deep, 3 1/2" x 16" x 24" to be exact.

I will load with a rockwool after I fix up the 1/4" back panels.

Being somewhat shallow as they are, will they be very effective with heavy rock wool behind stand mounts?

Next I am planning to make at least one larger diffuser framed the same way, also loaded with RW. Something other than skyline. 24" x 48" x D? If I were to style it the same way as the three imaged, only fashion slats in an every other pattern across the front. Questions are how wide and how widely spread apart should they be to turn that absorber into a panel that does some of both for MF & HF?

Similar idea to certain dual purpose acoustic panels popular on the open market atm, the multi frequency square shapes.

I'd like to know the impedances of these drivers: HT, MT, and TT.

Can we trace back the impedances of the drivers from the crossover schematic?

Thanks for the help.

Hi all, I have built a Pi-based 3-way active crossover using CamillaDSP. However I do not currently have a manual volume control, and this is next on my list of improvements as it's not all that convenient to do it via CamillaGUI every time. I am wondering if anybody can recommend a nice-looking volume knob (black) that they've used on their own project? I did find some candidates on AliExpress but they tend to be more focussed on "value" and I want a more premium look.

I have 6 of these ICs (genuine NOS).
2 sold in second, now only 4 pcs left.

$50 each + shipping,
or buy min 2 pcs
then shipping is free

PM me if interested

Thanks

Hi
I was watching this video.
Login to view embedded media He is using a 15 watt chip amp and he uses 0.22 Ohms 2 watt resistors
to combine 2 channels into one 30 watt channel .
His speaker is 8 ohms.
I have a similar situation I am repairing a guitar amp but I have
A 4 ohm speaker...
What resistors should I be using?

Thanks

Does anyone know where to get a schematic diagrams for a Crown 400 amplifier?

I have three of these woofers in as new condition. $125 a piece, you pay shipping. Each box is about 9lbs, shipped from 47150

Hi everyone, I've been on a speaker building hiatus for a few years but getting back into it

For this new design I'm working on I want to focus on both something that I screwed in the past and something that I really need this time, which is as flat as possible off axis response

I've been searching for drivers for a while now, tweeters, full ranges and BMRs

Something that caught my attention is that most if not all Dayton Audio tweeters have really good off axis response on the datasheet, almost too good to be true

For example comparing the two bellow, the Peerless one becomes a mess off axis after ~12 kHz and at that level it's 10 dB down at 60° compared to on axis, while the Dayton Audio one it's smooth and not even down comparing 60° to on axis

This pattern repeats for many models and this message would never end if I compared every single one I've looked so far, but Dayton always has a response that looks too good to be true and other brands with a not so good response but that looks more realistic, specially off axis

Is Dayton screwing the measurements? (or purpose or not), is the 1/12 smoothing hiding the mess? Doesn't look like since it would still go down on average

Thanks for any insight

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...Silk-Dome-Shielded-Tweeter-275-075?quantity=1



https://www.parts-express.com/Peerless-DX25TG59-04-1-Fabric-Dome-Tweeter-264-1020?quantity=1

hello,

sennheiser offer color rings : Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Purple, Brown, Black.

How do you sort colors ?

Same question can be applied to neutrick rings 😉

I recently found

U-PRO2S digital power amplifier module extended capacitor+P2601 balanced io input board module on AliExpress.​

Anyone build with AliExpress sourced parts? Are they legit or counterfeit you think?

I'd post a link but not sure if it's ok. One can search with the above and find it.

Paul

Hey everyone,

I purchased some 6ak5 tubes to start messing around with.

After trying several schematics and nothing working, I attempted my own configuration and this is what I got.

This so far does exactly what I want, except for a high pitch squeeling noise I cannot get rid of. This is pretty much the first schematic that has gotten my a volume output from a tube.

I am plugging this device directly into a 100w solid state amplifier. Again I can hear everything perfectly like the way I want, I just need to get rid of this noise. I attached a schematic.

I was recently pulled over by officer Cal for ‘quoting without attribution’ and have no issue with that but I had tried the partial quote (responding to the prior post) and it didn‘t relay to the reply box, clicked, double clicked, tried a few different things and can’t get it to show up……..am I missing a step?
Using Ipad 5th gen if that matters

thanks, Bob

Help please. We have a PA speaker system we use for events in work but it is only as portable as the length of the extension cable! How can I use this in the middle of a field? Can I buy a portable power supply and if so what wattage conversion would I need for say 800 watts speaker system. Or would I need a power invertor to a leisure battery? Again what size?

Just bought a pair off Ebay for desktop use, but did not realize I need to fill all the way up to 300Hz. Any help appreciated designing a single driver solution for 300Hz and under. Trying to keep cost low on the driver. Thx!

I have for sale a pair of Saburo loudspeakers I built as a test in MDF cabinets. The cabinets would need acoustic treatment (I used the acoustic foam elsewhere) and finishing unless they were used in a garage system or similar. Loaded with treated Fostex FE126E drivers. Drivers will not be sold separately. Pickup only in Oakville Ontario. Asking $150 OBO, lowballers will be ignored.

I came across a speaker manufacturer called Grandale Audio ( https://www.grandaleaudio.com/ )
they seems to have one flagship full range driver of around 3-4" which they have used it in all their speakers.
its available on amazon
https://www.amazon.in/Grandale-17E-Full-Range-Woofer/dp/B09QKQRC9F

this driver has Fs at 110hz and been used in line array model G7 ( https://www.grandaleaudio.com/grandale-g-7/ )

now I plan to use these drivers in a floor stander but not as line array. Instead I plan to use 8 of them as woofers in a sealed or ported box to handle below 300hz. two of them as mids to handle from 300-3khz. then use two drivers as tweeters. one in the front at ear level and one at top as ambience tweeter.

will such a configuration work? I am guessing this configuration is called 2.5 way??

since all are same drivers I shall go with single order filter network.

I need to replace the passive radiators on an old set of Kenwood LSC-6000's. The foam surrounds on the passives is rotted away. Strangely enough, the drivers are okay. The client would like to keep the sound as close as possible to the original, so I'm on the hunt now for a replacement.

Pertinent info:

Cabinet measures: 12" x 24" x 10.25"
Radiator measures: 212mm across TOTAL.

what else do I need to know? The radiator fits down into a recess, meaning that the 212mm would be nice to hit spot on... although I feel that won't happen.

One magnificent piece of equipment! Comes without cart.

Morning y'all.

Have aforementioned machine. Bought it because a previous owner had tried to replace dac chip with a piggyback 2x TDA1541A double crown - paid less than what you would pay for a single double crown. I was chip harvesting but now want to get this unit working because it is so nice. I'd read that they were heavy, but hadn't grasped what that meant in reality - yep, it's heavy!!

There has been a bunch of work done on this be previous so I have contend with all of that in order to find faults. I cannot easily return it to original baseline as a start point. It has been put in NOS, the SAA chip has been removed and was not supplied. As manufactured this unit used the non-A TDA1541 chip but it came to me after attempt to use 1541A chips. I don't have and non-A chips myself so will continue with the bodge. I have to check to see if additional timing cap was added for oscillator.

My first question is relatively simple

I'm pretty sure that the CDM1 should spin up when the cd door shuts regardless of there being a disc present or not?

Currently it does NOT spin up when no disc present - but it does when you insert a disc. It does not read TOC

I've mucked about with these Philips and Marantz TDA1541 players a bit so I'm not a complete novice but I'm also far from being expert repair tech.

The first thing I did was to replace the usual suspect 33u axial cap on the laser control board - this has been my simple remedy in the past - but alas this machine requires something more. Today I will go through and reflow solder, griplets etc. and follow any other suggests I can find online.

Hello everyone,
I'm belgian and my hobbies are HiFi music and old receivers from the 70's. I've just started to service an old marantz cd-73 because 2 technicians didn't want to take a look in it. But I understand why now... I've decided to register on diyAudio cause I want to exchange with other people about my hobbies.

Hello
I have a pair of KEF 103/4 speakers. Did these speakers have an intact front grile cloth? I don't remember if they also were attached by circular magnets? How do I remove the bottom plastic wrap around with the KEF badge? Does it just snap off? I want to replace the U-shaped plastic wrap around with the original black grille cloth under the KEF bage on the right corner? Need help please.
Antohny

I have 12 pcs of these..NOS condition !
=> All gone !

$10 each + shipping (min buy 4 pcs)
or take them all then shipping is free

PM me if interested

Thanks

Up for sale is an used NAGAOKA MP-200 cartridge it has been used maybe 10-20 hours only! So condition is
great!

Item is located in Slovenia EU.
Shipping worldwide.

Price is 300 EUR including shipping.

Payment via paypal or SEPA bank transfer.

I am refurbishing a Teac reel to reel and am replacing a 9 pin male connector that plugs into a noval tube socket on the PCB. I did some searching and couldn't find anything.

Anyone here know where I can get one?

This amp uses NTP35N15 for the outputs .

They are obsolete .

Does anyone know of a good replacement for these ?

I was wondering if it's safe to run a pair of Alpine ddt-s30 tweeters on a Taramps TS 400x4...one tweeter per channel??

Hey!

I'm trying to figure what kind of connectors I need to purchase for the signal section of this AIYIMA board:

https://www.aiyima.com/products/amplifier-board-aiyima-b2d2205-tpa3255-4ch-315w-power-amplifier




Can anyone help? From what I gather it seems like some sort of "JST XH" connector? But no idea which size...

Hi all.

My 2-way speaker project has come to the point whrere i have bought drivers, tested them and know about size of the speaker.
(SBacoustic tw29txn-b & AT 18h52)

I will be using wavequide (jantzen 165mm) on tw29txn-b tweeter, and little selfmade wavequide on 18h52 (diy 200mm)

Thing is i would rather make from aesthetical reasons a sharp edged box, but i know that in "normal" nonwavequide elements rounding edges is benetifical.
I read that 1 inch is minium for it to have positive effect, and even more 1,75 inch is better (more depth in soundstage, reference from Lynn Olson)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-So what is your experience? Do i need rounded edges with wavequides or not?
I feel that because wavequides shape sound direction edgerounding would be not needed, but i don't really know..

Hello all, sorry for this question. But I’m not sure if I think correct.

I want to build a +/- 15v supply with only positive regulators (7815).
i have 2 windings on my transformer.
is this how to do it?

R1-R4 is 0.33R
BR// Daniel

Hi All

Looking for a pair of these to try for preamp output coupling duties. Maybe a quad.

250V preferred as I believe these were tighter tolerance (+/- 5%).

I can see there are quite a lot for sale on eBay but who knows which of these might be genuine.

Anything out there?

Thanks

Ian

My uncle has the original RockOla jukebox that came from my grandfather's old pharmacy/sundries store back in the late 50' or so. He's in the process of restoring the tube amp and such, but would like to keep the original speaker in it and it needs a recone. It has a Jenson 12" A12PM in it. He said he found somewhere in Florida, but he's afraid the cost of shipping will be more than the service. He thought he might be able to do the recone himself, but his hands aren't' steady as they used to be at 75 years old and he's afraid he won't be able to solder the voicecoil leads back on without puncturing the cone. So I figured I'd ask the experts here where is a good service that won't mess up this piece of his childhood history? He lives near Branson, MO FWIW.

I'm selling my Beolab 6000 with C Transformer (pair) 100$

Hi folks,

not having found an affordable DSP alternative which is functionally comparable to my failing DEQX PDC2.6p, I am on the verge of deciding for a miniDSP Flex Eight because I'm driving digital 3/4way active DIY Speakers.

Drawback is that the Flex Eight does not have an ADC, so playing my LP records is a significant issue. To mend this I have just found this "Analog Digital Converter PCM1804 RCA to SPDIF 24bit" board at Audiophonics.fr, but am unable to judge if this board would be appropriate for decent Phono AD conversion.

SPDIF or Toslink Output are OK (as an initial solution) as my digital sources are selected with a digital source selection box (CAS2.V3SE) anyway. Putting the ADC board into a box and provide a good, stable and low noise power are no problems, but I think the optimum would be a board integration into the DSP system by I²S connection (maybe as a second step solution).

As the PCM1804 is really an old chip, I am unsure if the 40€ ADC board linked above would really be a viable solution. for Phono

I'm greateful for any advice or pointings to better alternatives.

Thanks and regards,
Winfried

Hello ,
I need suggestions from here , currently I using 3way seal speaker ,off course not happy with low frequency.
So , I decided to add 15in woofer for my 3way seal speaker. In case which one is right choice for my existing system?
For seal AE 15 TDH or AE dipole 2x15in per side .
For future I would like to add full range driver and can be used at two ways speaker too that is why I consider to use open baffle .

I'm looking for a complete replacement power supply either used and working or new if available and anyone can help?Im based in the UK.