Hey Anyone,

I read here that the Apollo uses the Sanyo SF P101N transport and laser. So I bought the Sanyo laser and transport. The only problem is that Rega uses three spring loaded BB's to hold the disk in place. The standard Sanyo doesn't have that system. Does anyone know if they can be swapped, without destroying the original drive?

Hi amigos,

I need your help to find a way to identify the counterfeit chips with see in Aliexpress or other sites.

I have been said that the following chips were fake, despite the fact that they sound great in my DAC.






Any idea ? I also contact Amanero, AKM and Muse support center : I am wiating for their response.

Making space time. I have a mountain of transformers which I'll never use, so they're going up for sale. So if you guys are interested in any of them, let me know and we'll fix an agreeable price which is less than market value.

I have loads of the following
6+6v at 10VA
6+6v at 12VA or more
9+9v at 60VA
12+12v at 60VA

Quite a lot of DC power supplies 12v at 1A, all leads and mains plug (cheap)

I have a lot of Russian K72 teflon caps, 0.056 and 0.1uF

Loads of electrolytic caps, 16v, 25v, some higher voltages

Loads of nice polypropylene caps like WiMA and equivalent. Small values like less than 1uF, 250v and 400v.

Some DHTs like 01A etc. Plenty of glow tubes. Some rectifiers including European ones (AZ1 mesh etc) though these may be market prices.

I'm in Kensington, London if anyone wants to pick up and choose from what's there. Or I can post to UK and EU. Possibly outside those areas but prefer simple shipping. Let me know if interested.

all are genuine Toshiba FETs €4,20/ each. I have around 100 pieces from each available.

Sales only in pairs / minimum Order 6 pieces / each / 12 pieces.
Pictures i will upload latter today.

Parts are NOS unused I bought them in 2002 in Germany from Spoerle / Arrow Electronics.

Shipping with registered mail. PayPal is accepted buyers needs to pay the additional PayPal fees from 4% with confirmed address!!.
Shipping prices are different depends on the country. Register by DHL
No reservations longer than 24hrs. Drop me an email if you are interested and I will reply when I am able to.

Regards, WB

Hi ,

I have 4 of Alps Black Beauty RK40 25Kx2 Potentiometer for sale. They are original ALPS staying already long time in my home. The Potentiometer can be perfect used for the FW B1 Preamp. Price is 48.00€ each.

Shipping with registered mail. PayPal is accepted buyers needs to pay the additional PayPal fees from 4% with confirmed address!!.
Shipping prices are different depends on the country. Register by DHL
Drop me an email if you are interested and I will reply when I am able to.

Regards,

Finwbu

Amp Camp Amp v1.6 in Hammond enclosure

SOLD



Amp Camp Amp v1.6 with 24 V, 120 W Meanwell supply for sale.

It's in an aluminum Hammond enclosure with cooling holes drilled in the base (i.e., the lid) with venting provided up top around the elevated heatsinks. I really like the compact footprint with the heatsinks on top. I used foam weatherstripping on the bottom to provide a non-slip, anti-vibration footing.

Sounds lovely with my "C-Note" speaker kit from PE. My 2 Vrms DAC pushes the ACA loud enough for very enjoyable casual listening - would be even better with a preamp. The ACA embarrasses both my TDA7492 and AudioSource AMP-100. For example, the low open-string rhythm line in "Hey Hey" on Clapton's unplugged album is palpable with the ACA but entirely absent with my other amps.

I'm selling to fund my next project - likely the Aleph J.

Asking SOLD shipped CONUS.

PayPal preferred.

Hello all .

As per title , i'm looking for a pair . Europe mainly for obvious reasons . Thanks

best

$18 per set of 4. shipping is $6 per set of 4 and free if you buy all. including paypal fees.





MS Audio Carbon Housing Rhodium Plated Tellurium speaker Spade plugs - 2 Pairs | eBay

Carbon Housing Rhodium Plated speaker Banana plugs - 2 Pairs | eBay

Hi all,

I have for sale a Danish Audio Connect CT3-5-4 input selector switch.

Used but good,clean condition.

£65.00 inc UK delivery. Delivery elsewhere at cost.

Thanks for looking!

Hi all,

I'm new to all of this audio malarkey, so I hope it's ok to dive right in with some basic questions?

I'm getting a pair of Wharfedale Dentons (Vintage version ie. from about 1970s), and I would like to have a small streaming set-up.

What do I want to do?
> I need an amp to power my speakers
> I would like to be able to stream Internet radio
> I have an Odroid N2 which is running mpd & minidlna with a 1Tb HDD attached, so I would like to be able to connect to that, to stream my ripped-CDs.

After browsing the forums, then I think I need something along the lines of the following:
1) A transport of some description, such as the Allo DigiOne Signature
2) An amp such as the Allo Volt + D Amp
3) I read on a different post that someone suggested using a USBridge Sig, but I have no idea really what that's for, tbh. Do I need one?

Here's my questions:
1) Do I need a DAC at all?

2) Do i need to have a USBridge Sig?

3) Will the 2 Allo devices be ok with my vintage Dentons i.e. will they power the speakers (I think that they're 4 Ohm(?), and are the Allo too good for my speakers, please?

4) I don't need to have the Allos but they seem to be good, so feel free to recommend any other boards that might be a good substitute!

5) I would like to run volumio - if so, do I need to install it on all of the boards?

6) Do I connect my amp & the transport using RCA cables?

7) Can I attach a small screen, nothing fancy just so I can see the artist & track that's playing

Many thanks in advance for any help, and advice that you can give me! 🙂

Hi,

Noob question I have, about loss factor understanding please.

How to translate the loss factor of a lytic cap in term of R value ???😕

For instance, a lytic cap with a loss factor of 0.6 % at 1K Hz: what does it give in serie reistance please if I had for instance to swap it with a teflon or a styren with 0.0001 loss factor and ad a resistor to cope with the old ESR of the lytic cap ????

Or is it simply impossible to do ?

Hi all,
My horn speakers are very efficient and I'm getting a small amount of hum coming through from my Sun 2a3 amp. Will I loose any sound quality if I put a simple fixed LPad on them to lower efficiency a bit? It's not bad but we're always looking for improvements. With drivers and xover the impedance is around 16ohm and I wouldn't mind dropping this a bit through the LPad if possible.
Main thing is I don't want to loose any of the 2a3's beautiful music.

Thoughts please.

Cheers

Hi,
I'm building a seperate VU meter unit with salvaged parts based on an opamp buffer.
My aim is to build fig 4 of this page :

Driving VU and other AC Meters - Simple High Performance Circuits

The article states that : " in both circuits it is important to note that the rectifier is connected to a separate ground from the rest of the circuit. This is because the non-linear rectifier will cause the ground current to be a distorted version of the audio signal at the input."

How do I create seperate grounds ?

Would it be ok to send the rectifier gnd to the 0V of the split power supply I have built to power the unit. I.E. the centre tap of the transformer ?

Cheers

For sale a pair of legendary Magnum 18LF bass driver in good shape,a few years old but used only in hifi home system.For data plese see in internet.Price would be 250euro plus shipping.Shipping only inside EU,becose the drivers are verry heavy.For more info and price offer plese contact me.

Will come with a Coherent Audio 800hz crossover as well. Great set of drivers, aluminum diaphragms. $650 + shipping.

RADIAN 5215B-16 Coaxial 2-way For Sale - US Audio Mart

22x power amplifier, the input end is open circuit, listen carefully with your ears close to the tweeter, can not hear a little noise, Close to the woofer and no noise，how about the noise parameters? ?Is it easy to do? ?

Here are 6 new KT88 tubes for sale. Branded and selected by Bugera for their Bass Amps. These all test like new on my tester and work and sound great. They were for a project that I will not finish.

$130 plus shipping. Ships from Vienna, Austria. Paypal as a gift or add the fees.

Anyone have a high res picture of the board behind the gain and crossover pots ?

It’s hard to make out the silk screen printing on this board looks like someone used a harsh chemical on the board .

A friend of mine has asked for some advice about making a large (3 foot square mouth) tractrix horn. He wants to make it out of four pieces of thin ply, joined edge to edge. It will then be strengthened. His problem is how to draw the curve of each edge.

I cannot get my head round how to create that curve. Any suggestions?

Hello.
Last September 2019 I bought the kit to build the SBA 741 by Troels Gravesen and its still lying on the shelf.

SBA-741

Now I have changed my mind and there is a chance to go for something really big that has to put all my money in, so let's see if any of you is interested in this kit.

Nothing has been used, not measured. Every speaker is in NEW condition.
2x SBAcoustics Satori TW29RN-B
2x SBAcoustics Satori MW13P-8
2x SBAcoustics Satori MW19P-8

The speaker kit is about 900€ itself. I'm selling in 600€

Some crossover components availabe if interested.

Need some help...

1. - I have a tda7057aq ic amplifire. And now, only one output is working. Where should i start to check it.

2.- i like to replace the ic with a high quality one. But can i replace this ic with good tda ic (like 1552 or....) or, should i built a new one?

Thanks 😍

I am looking to build a set of speakers to be used in a fairly large room powered by my recently recapped Pioneer SX-1250.

I am a noob to speaker building. I have never even owned nice speakers. I am currently running some junk mcs speakers. My brother owns a sansui g8000 and klipsch cornwalls. Those sound amazing. I am sure i will not be able to replicate that but I would like something nice. I listen to a wide range of music from classic rock to hiphop. I would like to be able to play some jazz once in a while but then shake the house with some party music.

I had my eye on some ADS speakers on craigslist but they went quick and the used market seems to be dry where i live.

What i really want is just a proven 3 way speaker plan with a 12 inch driver (or larger). I want something that many people have been able to successfully replicate. Does something like this exist? I know nothing about designing speakers and just want a set of instructions and a parts list.

Any simple oldschool monkey coffin designs out there?

Is a budget of $700 enough?

Hello,

I'm starting a new amplifier build based on two ICEpower 700AS1 modules for a two channel build.

Initial stages of this build were discussed in another thread because I was intending a hybrid build but through discussion this amp will not have a tube stage. So I started a thread just for this build as the hybrid no longer applies.

The ICEpower modules have been on order for a week or so but other items have come in (i.e. xlr/RCA jacks, binding posts, & Lundahl transformers) so I can start working on the build and laying everything out. Chassis will be a Hifi 2000 and should be ordered this week.

I started by laying out the back panel with the inputs and speaker outs.

Then I started a PCB for an "Input Module" which I would like some input on as I am new to PCB layout. There will be two different boards, one with Lundahl LL1545A transformers and one without. I will try both and see which one I like best.

The input board will span the back of the chassis and mount directly to the XLR jacks with some additional standoff's as well. The RCA and input select switches will be connected to the board via short wires. The XLR housing will be grounded via mechanical connection to the chassis. There are connections for an input select switch to ground pin 15 of the LL1545A when using unbalanced. And I put a spot for a X2 cap and resistor filter to use if needed to isolate signal ground from the chassis. I can connect the chassis to either side to isolate it or not. The orange traces are top layer and blue are bottom layer.


I've attached my PCB layout and the datasheet for the LL1545A with my connections I'm using labeled with arrows on the second sheet. Any input on the PCB is appreciated.

Thank you

FS: Zen v9 boards plus a 8 * LU1014's

plus 12*IRFP240 and 4 ztx-450

45 euro's excluding shipping.

... because your sub is making horrible rattling noises, but it turns out that a load of empty plastic cups have been sucked deep into the port and it is those being violently shaken that's causing the rattling. thank god for that.

Hi, I'm new to this crossover stuff but trying my best to understand how to do this: I want to use one 8 ohm 18 inch woofer with an inductor at 100hz as a low pass and then use another identical 18 inch 8 ohm woofer with an inductor at 200hz and combine it with one 8 ohm full ranger with no caps or inductors. Will this work and will the amplifier see an 8 ohm load?

For sale Dual TO-99 OPA627SM on DIP-8 Adapter PCB - 1 pcs - SOLD!
$65 + registered mail shipping $5 + paypal fees. - SOLD!

Burr Brown OPA627SM - Military grade opamp in TO-99 metal package.
SM is the highest grade of OPA627 opamp series. Genuine of course.
I boght it from Auzentech site long ago for my Asus Essence STX sound card and later used in my Asus Essence One DAC (external sound card).
Even thouht this adapter was made very long ago Auzentech made it top quality.
Thick black matte ENIG PCB, golden pins and top end opamps.
This was made for the sound.

Photos attached.

Hello.
I need a pair of Fostex FT96H
PM with your offer please.
Thank you.

Hi,
I acquired a pair of 989s about a year ago. They were in very good condition apart from some minor snags on the socks. However, the real problem was the colour…these black tombstones were never going to be a success in our house.
Purchasing a replacement pair of socks in a more acceptable colour was easy One Thing Audio (One Thing Audio) here in the UK were helpful and provided some swatches. We selected a blue shade (in honour of my old JBLs, but that’s another story).

This brief article explains all the steps to replace the socks on 989s. It does not require any soldering or wire cutting, not does it require dust cover replacement. It is a job that takes about 25 minutes. Read this article completely before you start.

If you find any errors please let me know

[FIXED] Forte Model 3 Three sounds blown in only a small frequency range

I've owned a Forte Model 3 (three) for about 10 years or so and just love it. I'm a lucky guy... They were tearing down a house and let us go through it and take anything we wanted. On a shelf in the garage, there it was... All dusty and waiting for the next lucky owner. I asked if I could have it and they said yes. When I originally powered it up, there were problems. I don't remember everything but the right side was MUCH cooler than the left. I found a local guy that worked at Audio Research in Minneapolis and he fixed er up. I recall, he adjusted the bias and some other things. He was VERY impressed by this amplifier. So am I!! It's wonderful. It's been purring for years.

Now, recently, it starting to show it's age. The guy that repaired it last time is no longer working on electronics and has switched careers. He won't work on it. After browsing these forums for a few weeks and have found that Nelson Pass is also an active member, I immediately joined. I've searched this forum for schematics for the Model three and everyone says it's essentially the same as the Model one. I opened up the amplifier and looked around (not touching anything) and I'm positive I can repair this myself and feel the pride like you all do with the upgrades and repairs being done by yourself. I'm excited!!

Here is what I know:
When the amp is cold (I know, let er warm up) and now when its also warm, the right channel sounds like it's blown in only a small frequency of the range. It sounds like it's within many voices and certain higher mids. The bass and highs sound fine. I was initially thinking it was the speakers (Klipsch Forte II's) so I switched out the speakers to Klipsch Heresy II's and the problem still exists. The Forte also have new Crite crossovers in them. I'm pretty sure it's the amp. Now it seems like it's in both channels...

I'm ready to dive in. But wait!... I'm not 100% sure what the benefit of a class A amplifier at 50 watts is vs a class A/B amplifier at 200 watts. With that said, and most people going through the process of converting these to class A, I think that may be worth the work if it improves the sound stage and overall quality of the sound. I can only get my Adcom GFP-565 to a bit less than 1/2 volume so maybe class A would be beneficial.

On a scale of 1-10 for electronics knowledge, I'd say I'm a 2 🙁. But I am so impressed with how you all help each other here, I'm willing to learn. Bare with me!!

Can anyone tell me what I should look at to determine why I'm getting the blown sound out of the amp. Since I'm a beginner (sorry in advance), but I'm very technical (In IT for 25+ years) and careful, I can follow instructions and learn as I go.

TLDR:
What should I look at to determine why voices make the speaker sound blown. I have a meter.
What caps should I replace and where should I buy them? Sounds like the 4 LARGE ones and I'll bet some on the output boards?
When running this amp, the temperature of the heat sinks are barely warm to the touch. I'm reading they should be much warmer. I have a hand held laser temperature meter and should be able to set the bias with that.
Should I convert this to class A? I love the sound so much of this amp that I'm afraid that changing it may alter my love for it. Hopefully, for the better 🙂

I've attached some pics. When responding, please guide me like I'm 5 years old. that will not only help me, but others that run across this thread.

Here is a link to a photo album of all the pics of this amp.
Forte Model 3 Three Amplifier Photos - Google Photos

Thank you in advance for your help!!!

I'm rebuilding a Sansui AU-5500, I came across an IC, BA312 manufactured by Rohm. It's a Dual preamplifier from the 1970s, it has 7 pins inline so I'm wondering if anyone knows of a modern drop-in replacement with better specs or just sounds better? Its the pre-amp for the phono section by the looks of the schematic, I started looking for a suitable replacement then thought I would ask you guys who are much more experienced than me! 😀

Hello all,

I have this Marconi piece of equipment:



Does someone have the user manual and/or the service manual?

Thanks

Hello,
I am in the process of sourcing parts for this build and noticed a descrepency between the parts list at the end of the article (here: http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/clarionarticle.pdf ) and the schematic.

The schematic shows a 10K 10 watt resistor at R7 where as the parts list shows 6.8K 10 watt.

I actually asked Jim Hagerman himself via email and his response.....well, it didn't help much. He basically said it was a good question and he had no idea....probably the 10K.

I was wondering if any out there have built this amp and what they used in the position at R7 or, if possible, might be able to deduce which one it should be. I imagine either one will work but I bet one will work better😕

Also, if there are any out there who have built this design, any tips, advice, or experience is always helpful.

For those unfamiliar with this amp it was an attempt to create a well designed DHT SET where all of the parts could be sourced from one supplier, namely AES (Antique Electronic Supply).

Personally, I have digressed quite a bit from the original intent as I have sourced higher end parts from many different vendors to include Sonic Craft High-End DIY Audio Parts (very good variety with excellent service, even a very knowledgeable tech who is easily available to talk with!)
Antique Electronic Supply (great source for basic stuff)
HiFi DIY Site - VT4C/211 Power Triode (great prices on great stuff but shipping is a bit high)
Parts ConneXion - The authority on hi-fi DIY parts and components (excellent source but slow service, esp with paypal)

I plan to post some pics and stuff here as this build progresses for those interested as I have not yet seen a builder's thread for this amp.

Thanks for everyones help in advance!
Jeff

Tried to find an answer in some of the books but got nowehere. So perhaps some of the guru's can (want to) help out here?

We have from Duncan's pages the wonderfull PSU designer software.

With the software it is easy to "go overboard" and try to desing a PSU with nanoVolts ripple but for a normal SE (EL34 / KT66 / 6L6) what is a figure to aim for and what is "good enough"? SHould the B+ have less than 1V ripple or is it more or is it less?

Thanks a lot, AM.

I'm sort of going to continue the linked thread where it left off. Sort of.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/239113-adding-mass-driver.html


I bought myself a truck/pickup/ute/bakkie (pick the one which is relevant to you). It's a really fantastic vehicle, and it ticks all the boxes and some. On paper, it quotes "6 speakers", so I was hopeful about that, but when I got it, I was very disappointed. I never base a car-buying decision on a sound system, since they can simply be upgraded.


The vehicle has something pitiful in each place a speaker can be put. I mean, can't a manufacturer just spend $100 on decent speakers. It's such a mission to upgrade, or at least, so inconvenient (for the guy with a budget and a preference for DIY). Anyway, it has given me the opportunity to do some Audio DIYing.


Firstly, I need a solution for the bass. Once that's done, I can start upgrading everything else. I will unfortunately not be able to upgrade the front tweeters because they're well-integrated into the dashboard. So I thought I can put some 6.5" mid-bass's into the front doors, and some decent 6" 2-way's in the rear doors. I thought I could possibly get an 8" or 10" flat woofer under the seat, but I'm not sure about that yet.


That said, I do still want an interim solution. I have 2 6.5" drivers unused, and they're not half bad either. They were experimental drivers and cost me about $8 each. Anyway, I decided to experiment with them (and my nice old car amplifier I've had for many years), and they turned out to work fine when the crossover was set to very low. So I built a 50x24x9 cm box consisting of two enclosures, one for each driver. I built it out of hardboard, covered with carpet, and filled with fiberglass (not too stuffed though). That little box gives each driver about 3.3L, so it's really tiny, but considering it needed to fit under the rear seats, that's all the space I have.


I've now spent quite some time testing, and for pop music, music with a beat, it works nicely. When I listen to real music, music that I normally listen to, the bass sounds really muddy and wobbly. This got me thinking quite a lot. I figured that if I add weight to the drivers (Mms) it should lower Fs, and not affect anything else really (except sensitivity). Obviously it would affect the high frequency response, but that's a good thing. I researched a little (look at top link) and decided to give it a try. So I used some butyl tape and added about 20g to each driver, and it worked beautifully! The bass response is much better.


So yes, adding weight to the drivers works well. If I get a proper flat woofer, it should fit in the box and I will just need to make it one enclosure (break the middle divider). So now the final install will need to happen. I decided I'm going to use the rear door speaker signal to drive the amplifier.


Has anyone tried adding mass to a woofer?


Has anyone got any advice on working with sound systems in Great Wall cars? Is there a woofer output? How would one access the radio connections?


I'll see if I want to keep a woofer after upgrading the door speakers. I'm going to go with speakers that have good low-end specs. Once I've got that all done, I can decide if I want something proper (8" or 10"), or if I'm going to chuck the current solution.


I'm open to suggestions and advice.

Robin Wyatt-->Sound Wonderful...
Robyatt Audio
RobyattAudio...Featuring TekTron

Whenever I insert something between a split track on Apple Garageband, I need to drag and drop every bit back in order. Is there an automated way to do it, where I don’t need to waste so much time setting up things in order myself?

As the title says am I wondering / asking about the resistors real sound, not if freezing them in a cryogenic frozen Nike shoo while Santa Claus is spreading Easter-dust, do make any diference.🙂


Resistors are made with different materials and techniques, so I can imagine that they have different heat, emf, capacitance and induction reactions. But on top of that, do resistors not add noise, distortions, harmonics and thereby change the sound?
I know that we may be talking about so a little influence that no person can here it, but if the signal is very small, like in an amplifier and there are a lot of them, do thy then make any change in sound?

By George, I think I've got a scoop here! SA153 got no search results here...

While doing my periodic sniffing-about for Yorkville U15 info, I see that (at least on the web site) Yorkville apparently has finally dropped the U15 line. However, they now have another Danley miscegenation 😀 called the SA153. Details are sketchy but it claims both Paraline and Synergy features. It is a powered speaker. I didn't research pricing but a few hits show only a bit cheaper than the SH50 (less amps). Would be enlightening to see polars etc. for the new mystery box. Based on the video, the SA153 seems even less suitable for home use than the Matterhorn (er, well yes, but also much of the DSL line...) Glad to see that DSL is licensing their tech, and why not to a company they've done it with before? One curious thing I notice is that this new speaker's use of the tech is quite different from DSL's current designs, at least to my point of view. Maybe DSL doesn't want licensed products to be too close to what the mother ship sells?

Yorkville

Either I have misunderstood or there is two sides of the coin of what I am trying to understand.

Obviously what i don't know about this topic is not tangible in terms of books or proper explanations in forums.

Lets get to the point, I have just discovered(if its true) that according to "some"(by all means possible experts) to improve transients all your doing is really cutting off or reducing the low end bass wavelengths from the extension. Which eliminates those frequencies and in turn gives you less overhang or better transients. Now this correlates to a bass myths article I read where its mentioned that "The fastest sounding bass is when there is no bass." Also, GedLee somewhere in this forum also mentions for bass reflex not to worry about the alignment or something along those lines.

Now in another forum someone mentions that group delay has not much to do with transients while I have read articles on how group delay does correlate with transients. I was under impression that the roll off of the transfer function is related to how the transients in the bass reacts? Now there telling me not to worry about this... I'm confused.

Now, I know there is no such thing as fast bass but there definitely is overhang. I have improved my subs from .707 to a .58 QTC and you can feel significantly less overhang.

Where I am going with this is lets put aside the transients for a bass cab or a subwoofer. If the above is true then by simply crossing over your PA cab with a sub woofer will improve transients to the PA cab right?. My question is, isn't designing the enclosure alignment important in knowing how the bass will react in terms of overhang regardless if the cab is being designed for the low end? For instance for a mid cab playing from 500hz and above and if we prefer better transients does the qtc play a role in the overhang? If the cab has nothing to do with long wavelengths then I would suppose QTC has no role right?(according to the above theory)

I know that many factors contribute to transients but if we stick to cab size and volume, I was so convinced that increasing port length would improve transients and in a closed box a larger box with a lower QTC will improve transients. Now, this theory is being put to the test.

Hello,

I found a few comments on the "Alfredo" horn, a back-loaded Tractrix horn designed by Alf Lepp from Australia.
But I wasn't able to find the plans for it or to find conact dates or homepage fof Alf Lepp.

can anybody help me

many thnaks and regards

Thomas

Guys not sure if this is even an option, but thought I would ask...I recently bought two different PAM chips and they are currently being shipped over on a very slow boat, but noticed that are fairly simplistic in their functionality.

5pcs PAM8403 Miniature Digital USB Power Amplifier Board 2.5V - 5V Sale - Banggood Mobile

And

PAM8610 Digital Amplifier Board 2x15W Dual Channel Stereo Class D Sale - Banggood Mobile

Any chance there is some way of adding volume control via a pot or tactile buttons?

Which supplier and brand do you recommend ?
I need electrolytics of various values and sizes.

This is for a board in a LCD screen; Over 30 caps, 6 have a bulged top. Not the power supply board ( PSU makes 12V and 20v ), the main board has bulged caps, I presume there are several DC DC converters on this main board.
Screen is: Belinea 10 20 30W.

Hi, does anyone know if there is 'ready to go' micro sd cards available
to run a hifiberry dac+ on a pi4?
So far I've loaded several types of software, but so far the only thing that works
is raspian full which runs pi as desktop.
So far I've loaded; raspian full, raspian lite, noobs, hifiberry os, picore player,
but most don't communicate with the screen via HDMI, don't boot or go into
command screen (I know nothing about programming). I'm wasting a lot of time going around in circles so it better to find something that's ready to go.
What's available out there?

Hello everyone.

I’m just about to start my first two OB builds this weekend (hurrah), and am hoping for some help on a couple of what should be quick and easy questions for you guys. Your advice would be much appreciated / and allow me to get a flying start!
Cheers.
Keith

I’ve bought some FE-88 SOLS to go with some JBL drivers (following an OB build already available on line).

Please has anyone any information as to if and how long the 88-SOLS may need for breaking in?
Or if no one has any info on these, how long did your 83-SOLS or 103-SOLS take to break in?

... and if they need breaking in, has anyone got a good solution / thread to follow to explain this?

Many thanks
Keith

PS. I’ll do the two questions in separate posts, as they are quite specific and different to each other.

Right now I'm trying to decide on a pair of towers to build. The front runners ATM are the Anthologys, and Statement IIs. One requirement I have is that there needs to be a center that will work well with them.

I am leaning towards the Anthology do to their "smaller" size. My wife doesn't seem to like the idea of speakers as tall as she is...I had a question about the center speaker. I know Jim has stated that the finalist center works will with them, but Meniscus says that the tweeter has been updated to a Morel tweeter. Does this still make the finalist center a good match for the Anthologys? If not I may have to go with the Statements.

Anyone have a schematic for this amp ?

PC#4346-A

Merry Christmas and Happy Holiday.

This is my first time on diyAudio and my first time building this Klipsch Forte crossover. The crossover build kit along with midrange and tweeter diaphragm upgrades for the Forte was purchased from Critespeakers.com.
I have followed the Klipsch Forte crossover diagram and then laid out my board designed that follows the original design and after putting the speaker back together, I've found the soundstage is not present like it was before I've replaced the original crossover.

I wanted to see if anyone can see a fault with my crossover rebuild or maybe a way that I can test the crossover build.

Thank you, Chuck

This used to pop up all the time when searching for a driver part number, and contained very useful info aswell as downloads for data for the main enclosure calc software.

It seems to have vanished?

Hi, I have bought a Sony Pascal package but all 5 speakers have dented dust caps, so on a speaker that small I think a hoover is out of the question as mine has no variable suction. So, would that be ok still? Or?

Lastly, my B&Ws, DM604 S3's, which has the metal dust caps, has one of the midranges dust covers is badly squashed and a few minor dents to the bass drivers. Is it possible to use a hoover on metal/tin dust cap covers?

Hello, all

What is the standard setup to measure the frequency response of a driver regardless of enclosure? In other words, what physical and electrical configuration does one have to employ in order to measure anything similar to what one sees in driver datasheets? A baffle of normative dimensions, I suppose?

When I need help, I will get it one here at diyaudio.com. So I decided to give something back to community in February 2020.

I have the amplifier tested, working with replaced LM3886TF (I was not sure if genuine had been built in).

All what you have to do is send an email to info at milanmedia dot pro with subject LM3886 (so I can make filter in my Outlook). I will randomly choose two guys on Sunday 16th at 5PM (CET), first one will get the amplifier, and second one is stand-in in case the first one won’t provide address within next 2-3 days.

EU only + UK, thanks for understanding.

Best wishes,

Milan

Privacy Policy
Nick names, names and surnames or addresses, nor email address will NOT be used for anything else, just for this giveaway. This is not commercial.
No need to send real name or address, I will ask for it later when I have to send the package. Then all emails will be simply deleted.

So I came across a mostly useless power supply (from PABX UPS?) with a chunky heatsink and simple chassis. It measures 20 cm wide by 9 cm high and base to fin tip about 7 cm. I was wondering if there was a PSU/amplifier combo that would fit. It would be to use as an electronic keyboard practice amp so it can be mono. If stereo it would be used to drive a speaker and subwoofer. Solid state class A would be nice, otherwise a chip amp would be fine. I don't have a large budget. Please some advice would be interesting to read.

Hi All,

I am making a Game handheld system with the Rpi4. Some of the problems I encountered and what I have tried so far:

1. Tried using the 3 ports of the TRS jack of the RPi4 but I could not eliminate the buzzing noise when connected to the Amplifier PAM8403 (5V to 2x3W)

2. I then bought a USB soundcard and run the wires from the TRS jack there. The sound is crisp without the Amplifier. But when amplifier is connected, the noise returns but less than if connected to Rpi4

3. Then I made a 600:600ohms audio transformer. This has greatly reduced the noise. BUT whenever it is close to the PSU or power wires, the whines get worse. The closer it is the worse, about 2 inches away it's barely audible. However, when you put your ears to the speaker, it's there.

4. Then I connected a 10R resistor to each of the + output to speaker, and this has further reduced the noise but volume is a little less.

5. What I have found is that, when I connect any external speakers to the switching TRS jack, the audio is very very low, bare hear at maximum. If I connect the Common Ground of the audio transformer, to any power ground, the audio becomes loud again but the noise returns.

I have tried grounding to avoid common ground but this wasn't the main issue as I have tried external power to the amplifier but the problem remains.

Here is a schematic.

Hi,

Many years ago I built the Maplin Millenium stereo kit using one power supply section which sits left side. It sounded great but I put it in storage very quickly as it had a fairly loud buzz, not from the speakers, but from itself. During the silence between tracks, I could hear the thing from a few metres away.

I would now like to reinstate it and intend to part dismantle it and pretty the casework and upgrade some caps and wiring. I tried it briefly and it still works the same.

Any advise on the hum/buzz would be greatly appreciated.

I placed an order with Glassware on Jan 2nd for an input selector switch. I received a confirmation that it would ship from stock and I even received a USPS tracking number confirmation. But the status still shows USPS never getting the package. Since then I've sent multiple emails to a couple of different addresses for glassware with no response. I see no phone number for them.


Is this SOP for these folks? I see enough on these forums to think that at least at one time the were a legit business. Maybe someone has a phone number for them? I'm about to submit a PayPal complaint. I don't think they want that anymore than I want to go through the process. Any information would be greatly appreciated! All I want is my order filled.

Hello,

Can some one please help? I'm working on a project a Tube Pre amplifier that uses these MOSFETs in the the power section. Not exactly sure to what but this part is definitely faulty as the "Gate" is always open. Online videos explain this very clearly!

The part number is this - IRFIBE20G I already ordered some online but they were fake! My partner in crime also ordered some and guess what? Fake!

My experience in MOFESTs are extremely limited, all I know in amplifiers they sound better than "other" technologies 🙂

Does anyone know of a replacement? There is 2 onboard and only 1 was faulty. Any help in the right direction appreciated!

I recently purchased a country property that has a 50'd x 40'w x 20'h metal building workshop. Inside is an office which has drywall and insulted walls with 8' ceiling. The office has a little odd layout but I think I could build a nice listening room for myself. I'm not worried about disturbing anyone with sound leaks since its out in the country and not attached to the house. I've attached pics of where in the shop the office is located along with the current layout and some of my layout ideas. Love to hear others ideas of what I should do. I'm in no rush and I do have building skills. Removing the interior wall would not be a problem but moving the toilet would be difficult. Thanks in advance.

Can somebody who's pulled a old Blade series 2 amp apart give me a clue. The fets are pressed into a channel in the sink with tape and clips. Im afraid to wreck the board pulling it off. Needs a new gain pot.

I'm looking for one or more Alps 250K balance potentiometers for a couple projects upcoming. I've been told that these have been discontinued, sadly, but I don't know for sure. Anyway, please drop me a note if you have one or more available. Thank you.

Hello everyone, I'm looking for a friend of a diagram and / or service manual for an audio amplifier: "Densen BEAT B 100 mark 3".
Any help is welcome. Thank you all.🙂

Is anyone really wanting this. AI dream mashup... junk
My pick is Iggy pop doing the stooges songs and other. Punks hotter than them!

Hi Gents,
Been reading, asking questions & trying to learn about horn speakers.
Seems like Tapped Horns are the way to go if one is looking for a small cabinet as compared to other forms of horn loading. My question is can Tapped Horns be designed to have a higher cut off frequency like around 400-500 hz ?

Thank you

I tried to change the volume pot on my fathers Kenwood amplifier (dated early 1980's) with a new pot. I bought a new 100K logarithmic pot with the same value as the old one. When I tried to install the new pot I found out that the old pot had four legs for each chanel and not 3. So the old pot had a total of 8 pins while the new pot had a total of 6 pins.

I intalled the new pot but it played to loud.

Does anyone know why the old pot had 4 legs/ch? Where can I get these pots today?

I will try to post some pictures tommorow.

Thanks
George

PAIR OF STANDARD HYPEX NC 500 BUFFER MODULES.6 MONTHS OLD £20 INCL POSTAGE IN UK.

I got a little impatient to practice with this bit and set my eye on my 'beater' workshop speakers hanging from the floor joists. Hmmm. Victims.

Cut a couple of new MDF baffles. Woofer recess and hole with trim router and just glued the cutout scrap circle behind the tweeter for WG depth. 1/2 inch roundover with the trim router. Did the WG on the drill press. Afterward I cutout a recess from behind for the tweeter faceplate using a router bit until the hole was precisely the right size for the 3/4 inch tweeter.

The bit I fabbed has extended profile into the throat beyond Zaph's template posted on his waveguide TMM page. I tried a few french curve stencils on the profile until one nearly matched and then extended the throat line with it. That's probably very close to the original WG and with this extension I have more range for different sized tweeters. The throat therefore may be a little deeper than is optimal when using a smaller dome, but better than nothing. An ideal bit for this WG profile would probably be something that maintained the the taper profile of the throat regardless of opening size since it has proven to be well matched to domes according to Zaph and JonM. That would have required something much more complicated that widened and narrowed both wings with a screw adjustment. Beyond my tooling skills. This willl have to do and is actually only a tiny bit off. I probably wont use it on any other 3/4 tweeters in any case.

These ancient speakers have a Vifa dome and a no name 6.5 inch poly woofer. I noticed that the glue on the dust caps was coming undone (poly don't like glue) so I just took 'em off and made a couple of oak dowel phase plugs to replace them.

I'd never even opened these before (got them at a thrift store years ago). With the WG they seemed comparatively 'shouty'. All that had been on the tweeter was a cap and 2ohm sandcast resistor in series. I removed the 2ohm and replaced it with a 3.2ohm in series and 12ohm parallel. Better. I really don't own any measuring tools yet beyond a radio shack SPL meter. These speakers aren't really worth too much more effort than this anyway.





Listening to some of my favorite "working on a project" music I'm pretty impressed with even this very, very rudimentary application. Even IF some of that is imagined. The WG just looks so cool. And was able to get a little practice in with the new tool. Odd that even with four coats of rattle-can black you can still see the laminate division at the second thickness of mdf in the WG. Odd because it's the same wood. I used the cutout from the woofer. Couple more coats would do it but no big deal on these workshop crew.

You can see my wire nut "thimble" connectors on the back. My favorite speaker terminals are none at all. Nothing else less expensive or lossless.

Hey Guys, I have a set of EL34 tubes that are marked Dynaco Gt Britain. They do not appear to be Mullard. They do not have the Mullard codes and no hole in the alignment stem. They have a code 922-107 on them and have a brown base with two large halo getters.

What is the cause for trasformer buzzing? How do i remedy it? When i push on them the noise changes.

Rock and Roll - The Velvet Underground

YouTube

Hi,
i am looking for some matched pairs of toshiba 2sk170 GR.
please PM me!

Thanks

Hi,

Just picked up a Denon DCD-3560 CD Player.
Beautifully made but possibly troublesome due to a Laserunit that is no longer made Sony KSS-151a and the two belts that drive the disctray.

I think those belts must be replaced because the tray opens and closes very cumbersome.

I also have the servicemanual where on page 38 you can see an Exploded View of FG-621 Mechanism Unit with a accompanying Partnumberlist.
The two belts are numbered:
27: BELT A: 423 0046 209 (top belt viewable when you open the disctray)

42: BELT B: 423 0047 004 (belt under the subchassis that actually drives the open/close mechanism)

In the attached picture Belt A seems to be square but in the player itself it's round.

Thanks in advance.
Belt B seems to be a square one but Belt A that I've already seen is a round belt.

I ordered Belt A with exactly the same referencing number as in the official partlist but got a square belt.

Does anybody here has a Denon DCD-3560 and knows what kind of belts are needed formwise? (round and/or circular)?

In the attached picture Belt A seems to be square but in my player it's round.

Thanks in advance

Hello all,
I was looking at this schematic and was wondering why the negative feedback resistor (R125) is 47K and not 100K? Could it be a mistake on the schematic or am I missing something.


The input resistor (R121) to ground is 100K.


I don't own this amp but I am trying to understand the design.


Thanks.

Hi to all,
I was looking to get opinions on should/could the room effect model be included with woofer low frequency response for xover design? Everything I see posted on this forum seems to exclude room effects. I realize if speaker was to be moved to different rooms that it would be best to not include the room effects. But, the speaker I’m currently designing will stay in one room for the foreseeable future.

Thanks in advance,
Rich

Hello. If you want a low impedance output to drive relatively moderate loads like 10K at 15Vpp AC.
EDIT : (The signal is 15Vpp max, but it is lower most of the time. )
(I precised 15Vpp 10K for the loading effect. It can be lower than 1Vpp.)


Is it "better" to use a single transistor source follower, or a op-amp buffer ?

I know that the single transistor will not provide unity gain, but can it be lower noise than an opamp ?
Not all opamp or transistor are the same and there is ones more noisy than other.

But as a general rule. Will the lowest noise transistor be lower noise than the lowest noise opamp ?

Thank you.

hi to all,

output loading on stk4050v is limited to 8r0.
loads lower than 8r0 is not recommended...
to increase its output capacity, im planning to add
power transistors on the output stage...
the stk 4050v's internal is quasi and the external power transistors
make the output stage a quasi driving a complementary; partly
similar to triple darlington...

the plan is to modify an existing stk4050v ckt/ckt board so it can
drive lower than 8r0.

need comments/suggestions/recommendations on this ckt:

Hello.I was wondering what is the impact on sound when including the output coupling capacitor inside feedback loop of a single ended power amp?
Ihav seen many amps from seventies where the output cap is inside feedback and on others it is outside.
Two examples are Sansui 2000X main amp unit and Sansui 4000

Hi all,
I have a nice UcD32MP amp on my main system and I am very happy with its performance, good enough to replace all of my valve amps. However just before xmas I was hunting a small residual hum and I accidentally dressed the leads to close to the amp board and one of the opamps fried. I got a replacement and all was good again.
However I now have a top class SMPS left on the dead UcD32MP and am reluctant to just bin it. I was thinking I could re purpose it to drive a Gainclone.
I have one of these driving my woofers
lm3886 kit - Google Search
I am more than happy with the build quality of this kit and it has proved reliable and excellent quality. I also have some spare OPA637 chips to upgrade the buffer stage.
So my questions are:
- I am assuming that the Hypex SMPS has split output rails, is this correct ?
- How easy is it likely to be to fool the SMPS into powering up, is it just a matter of shorting the SMPS enable line ?
-the idea was to simply bypass the rectifiers on the kit and hook straight up to the big caps. However this will present a dead short to the SMPS which would need some sort of soft start circuit to overcome. Would it be more beneficial to simply leave out the caps altogether.

Are there other digital alternatives to the LM3886 which could marry with the UcD32MP SMPS.

All help appreciated.

Shoog

Thought some of you who haven't seen my other thread about my review site here might be interested in seeing the data from this test since it's a fairly popular "project" drive unit.

Aurasound NS3-193-8A1 3 inch Fullrange