Hello gals and guys,

I'd like to know what you'd do with a bunch of Monacor SP-50x. I don't mean the new version with the dreaded plasic-chrome whizzer but I mean with the old ones, which got the bigger whizzer paper cone. I know of the Klang+Ton Cheap Trick CT193 (of the German magazine Klang+Ton) which used the SPH-60X which I've built several times and sounds really great, very high dynamics and for the size of the FR, unrivaled bass performance, the horn reflex performs amazingly. Since I've already built so many of them (the 4 Ohm version performs even better!) I'd like to hear what you think about the SP-50X and how you'd like to use them. They've got a good spl (just a tad below 90dB/2,83V), got a very nice, even and borad midrange and the highs are nice, better than the SPH-60X but good dome tweeters will perform better on the top end. The SP-50X sound very smooth and realistic in the hights, unlike the actual model.

What would you do with these FR 13cm drivers?

Use them as sat for 10" or 12" subs?

Can you imagine them as double mids (MTM) in a PA speaker?

I've heard them in a 8x and 4x configuration for two disco side rooms, but I don't have enough of them and the chrome plastic ones sound so horrible, it's not even funny anymore.

I'm not fixed on PA, what would you use them for?

I am into vinyl and vintage music electronics as a hobby. I currently am working on a few different things and have a relatively low skillset in this. Looking to learn from a good community!

I'm looking for some sonic comparisons between these much-used octal outputs wired in triode. Plus any fairly close octal equivalents like KT66, KT77, KT120, KT150 etc. Not including the lower power octals like the 6V6 family which we know to be good - just those with dissipation of 18W or over in triode.

Which of these have you used, and which would you recommend on the basis of sound quality? Thanks.

Greetings and Salutations,

I got myself a PA 7E. Unfortunately, the a** who sold it to me thought it was a good idea to damage it in such a way that the new owner would just throw it away.

Long story short, I repaired the right side, but the left side is still tripping the protection circuit. It turns out that the output has an offset which triggers the protection circuit, and the pots don't change anything when turned either way.

Now, this is what makes it really strange (at least for me): Connecting the left side to my lab power supply (+-68V), that damaged amp works flawlessly. Unfortunately, that is the max I can get out of my supply. I know the datasheet says it should be +-60V, but the supply of my and other people's PA 7E seems to be running at +-80V. Anyways, I have also connected the (bad) amp to the other power supply side where the other amp works, and it does the same over there: the output has an offset, and the pots don’t change anything.

What could be causing this kind of behavior, and how could you repair something like this? Could a 12V difference trigger bad diodes and transistors and revert their behavior when under-volting? I mean, these are old semiconductors—is that something rather uncommon? I have come across half-bad semiconductors, but never ones that would behave differently with a 10% voltage increase/decrease.

---

Thanks in advance and Best Regards from Germany

We built a pair of mini speakers for a young student at university.

The idea came from here :
https://projectgallery.parts-express.com/speaker-projects/sls-85/
https://audioxpress.com/article/Test-Bench-Tymphany-Peerless-SLS-85S25CP-04-04-3-5-Woofer

But with a different enclosure made from bamboo ply's from IKEA, with front and rear from white Corian.

The drivers are available at Digikey, which makes ordering real easy.


Patrick

.

Hello,

today I received my copy of Merlin Blencowe's book Designing High Fidelity Tube preamps. I opened it about in the middle and fell into chapter 6.1.3: Cascode BJT Current Source. Merlin writes that a CCS's dynamic impedance can be increased dramatically by paralleling the reference LED's or zeners with a capacitor. But it takes absurd high capacitance values to keep the impedance high in the LF region also. Now there are gold capacitors with values in the F(arad) region. Were they suitable for this purpose if the total reference voltage is kept well beneath their voltage rating?

Best regards!

So I am not sure if I put this in the right forum but it seems to be the best spot.

I am reconing 2 of my JBL 2226H drivers which had been previously reconed badly (not by me).

I purchased a set of cones from ebay a while back (2 years ago or so) to do some checking on cone weight but never got around to it until now (to many projects). The cones came from one of the reconing guys well known online that has a store on ebay but unfortunately I cannot remember who. Nice cones look the part and matches everything visually as well as in their physical dimensions (except weight). When I weigh this cone its 48.7 grams.

The cone that I took off the driver yesterday was an MW marked cone that weighs 56 grams. Other then weight the two cones (ebay vs MW) look identical.

I do not have any original JBL 2226 cones other then the ones I have on another pair of JBL 2226H drivers I'm using in a set of Clone 4343's I built a year ago. When I look those cones up and down they too look like they would come in on the heavy side if I could weigh them.

So my question is:

Does anyone know the weight of an original JBL 2226 cone or do you have one that you could weigh?

Thx in advance for all your help.

Hello!
I'm Sergey from Kyiv, Ukraine. I’ve been designing audio for 25 years, but of course less often now. But I think I’ll still return to my favorite multibit DACs. Good sound everyone!

Hello,
I'm looking for some suggestions on where to find good quality metal enclosures suitable for vacuum tube preamp building. I've used Hammond enclosures before and been satisfied, but wonder if there are alternatives. Maybe something a little less utilitarian, more modern in design? Thank you for your suggestions.

hello
someone already did this job on this forum with philips CD4000

so I would like to make my high-end CD player Technics model: SL-P999 work as a DAC.
so I would like to install an optical input.
because the sound of this cd player is phenomenally fantastic.
it says on it that it should be 20 Bits, now I don't know how much that is. I know, I know electronics, but not too much.. I know how to solder wires and work with a multimeter. but I'm a complete zero in this project. haha
i know i need a board most likely SPDIF to I2S.
would it be possible to connect this thing to my technics cd player.

I have been looking for a good 6BQ5 push-pull project. I found the followng: OddWatt - ECC802S SRPP / EL84 (6BQ5) Push-Pull Tube Amp

here: https://diyaudioprojects.com/Tubes/EL84-Push-Pull/

My question regards the B+ on the various projects.. In the original thread, this project is referenced:

Compact Hi-Fi Power Amplifier by Melvin Leibowitz​

found here: https://diyaudioprojects.com/Technical/Papers/Compact-Hi-Fi-Power-Amplifier/

Many here are likely familiar wth these projects.

Here is my question. In the referenced Leibowitz project the B+ is 260v with 250v applied to the plates. In the 'final' version of this amp, updated 9 October 2012, the B+ is only 210v. Why the drop n voltage? Seems like a lot.


Roger

DIL versions. Only originals and kept ESD safe. Make me an offer by PM.

EU only!

New/unused NOS 2SJ74GR. Since I got fed up with receiving relabelled 2SK170GR I offer these 6 pieces for sale. Also I noticed the future is definitely the other way.

Absolutely original from decades ago and always kept ESD safe which I can recommend to anyone. Make me an offer that is OK so I can buy those JFET OPA828’s.

EU only!!!!

Yes there are OPA604AP, OPA603AP, OP90 and OPA637BP pairs on the picture. Also for sale.

Hi,

About to finally start tinkering and I like the idea of a compact 2.5-way...CamillaDSP (RPi5 & HiFiBerry DAC8x) to create the active crossover and 6 channels of amplification, the parts per speaker:

2 x Wavcor WF168WA02
1 x Vifa NE25VTS-04 tweeter)
1 x Dayton Audio DS270-PR

As compact a cabinet as possible, I don't want floor-standers or anything too bulky.

I can't find much info on how the enclosure would differ, or whether it needs to differ at all, layman's terms would be great!

Thanks
Richard

So I picked up this DH190 receiver for practically nothing. I’ve only tested by using its bluetooth capability with my iPhone and it worked great! Anyway, I was cleaning it up and discovered unlike every other knob on a receiver I’ve ever pulled off to clean (the receiver was filthy), you’re supposed to use a screwdriver stuck through a hole from inside the chassis to release it. I’ve seen knobs with set screws but nothing like this. Anyway, not knowing any better, I forced the knob off by pulling it and the white ring separated from the black knob itself. So I found the service manual for the similar DH590 model they showed how I should have removed the knob. Problem is putting it back on. Can someone look at this pic from the manual and explain what they’re trying to get across from the “ok” and “ng” drawing showing the orientation of the knob? And is there a certain way this white inner ring is supposed to fit on the knob? And what purpose does it serve? Thanks!

In recent years, more and more hi-end audio manufacturers are turning to MOSFET relays for loudspeaker protection, most notable of them Accuphase.
Unless used in the shunt mode to short circuit the amplifier output, a loudspeaker relay is in the signal path.
If the contact resistance of the relay is not low, consistently constant over lifetime, and sufficiently linear,
it will be a source of added distortion between speaker and amplifier.
This is particularly the case for low-level signals.

While MOSFET relays do not suffer from those problems with a mechanical contact, the linearity of its “contact” resistance has not been reported in public.
Most measurements seen to date are those in conjunction with a resistive load.
If the distortion spectrum with or without the relay are seen to be identical, then the relay is declared distortion “free”.
This of course depends on the distortion of the base amp in the first place, with examples up to -90dB THD or higher at 1W 1kHz into 8 ohm.
The true performance of the relay is then hidden behind the base amp’s distortions.
I was told in private that this was actually how a well-known hi-end manufacturer measured their own design.

Not entirely satisfied with this, we set ourselves the task to try to measure the distortion of the relay itself directly.
As you can see in the article, we have successfully completed the task, and the DUT itself has a distortion below -80dB even at a current of 1Arms,
corresponds to 8W into 8Ohm.

PS Most sincere thanks to Jan Didden for carrying out all the measurements.


Patrick

.

As I am slimming out my DIY projects backlog due to the lack of time building all the stuff lying around I will post many undone projects and PCBs I collected over time.

Starting with Andrea mori great "The well tempered master clock" (see here).

Only offered as a package. Ideally suitable for a Shigaclone upgrade (was intended to use for my MK II but I was to lazy to replace the installed Tentlabs crystal).

Set contains:

• TWTMC-C Main board
• one daughter board
• Laptech crystal fundamental AT-cut 16,9344 MHz

Everything was safely stored in a dry place in the envelope Andrea sent me the stuff. Don't remember
exactly what I paid for, should have been about 60$.

SOLD

Best regards,

Fabian

Cheers my DIY friends,

continuing to go through my, seems endless, boxes of DIY stuff I found my first iteration of Shigaclone I built back then in 2014. This version never actually got an enclosure and was just built on a wood bracket until I built my MK2. It is completely hand soldered with fine selection of components (Vishay MELF resistors). It is a "basic" setup, so no enhanced components (see enhancement options) like Tentlabs clock / Andrea_mori clock (see my other sales thread, I have a perfect match for offer), Vishay Naked Z-foil resistors on SPDIF Out and so on. Still it already sounds great. It comes as a full set without cables and remote control. Just need to add your own toroid, pick it in a case (or on a wooden board) and a DAC and be happy listening.

Set consists of:

• Shigaclone MK1 Board by Vicol, completely soldered and tested
• PSU by Vicol
• Display board (Display even has the original protective film on it)
• Button board
• Sanyo Transport original SF-P101N 16 pin
• original Sanyo Laser Replacement (in case you want to try the Laser mod and **** happens)

SOLD

Hi all,

Im in need of a spare dsp board for a yamaha rx-v377, it has broken traces after a failed attempt at removing a faulty dsp chip to reflow.

If anyone has one in an amp with a different fault please let me know thanks.

Hi i would start with some measurements on line level buffer and preamp
So the max Vout from the units under test would be 3-4 Volts ( i have two low noise sound cards to try on the receiving end just to start)
But i would like to buy a standalone signals generator
I wonder which would be the price for something decent (i.e. low THD)
I see some units but i cannot understand their real performance

https://www.amazon.it/YIWENG-Generatore-arbitrarie-campionamento-memorizzazione/dp/B0CP58XNVG/ref=sr_1_57?crid=30DKIZFY2IUG2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Yz-ADEB7520kupg1GfSit1pm0QbliAuqk1XafbbUKOAVN8-gqXbMerZ8MiUVA7NZ_Jc5Z3SugzYtCN-G1zyoGFiK89UDOuuZbfCZtGKxw52vLy2XYb_cv1gACfePQAdr5VyOngxqZvjZlwqx9M4Fdwi63VqLNLkEo2XrY5KhEBSCihnHdyLOkJ4RIUHfeozRND_ZNmIB6etexmZ1KWLf1BkmWmdCKnlkGzpkpa3lM9NjdNRzpkLuF4l6nWA1gWxG5UsedpskOdz3XrmZoSq16SfWOkLmAJVig0hHrg46l5Y.mAQ7ZClWtKKu-uUk5nHDhDpiJ8RIDQwsmC4nRccuElM&dib_tag=se&keywords=generatore+di+segnali&qid=1719653548&refinements=p_36:6800-&sprefix=generatore+di+se,aps,257&sr=8-57&th=1

https://www.amazon.it/Generatore-Contatore-Controllo-Sinequenza-Ac100-240V/dp/B0CSDZ3VT8/ref=sr_1_92?crid=30DKIZFY2IUG2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.eb34Ik6wXn-CoZU6FrlBGS-X1U2l_ecDWcGBaMnreFP-Zc7B4KXSewv1zZWEpcEsYpogH4yM8VAS2VFWymXuRXdYbOTf1af1xGG3IAbJ-Aa9ueyPI_f2wlTjxDak4BnFdZIHcmlFTm-fhUnK1JY-i4X7nq5Am1C1kueIOGYMpv0VV4ZANDpjKPA5SsNG4a_WfOxCuszLq15QdG6-hz5phJ7ifggL_bvxHSiK7cf8miRyMsdRLKFsphoXrG5chshcouM5HnJaCmM8BJjdINyBH7XgZd1MeRZD4-VqjnT0VB4.rvEk96AKTC2mT27RApA0b1SMlyJJoz_xbGAPxgLrmGY&dib_tag=se&keywords=generatore+di+segnali&qid=1719653615&refinements=p_36:6800-&sprefix=generatore+di+se,aps,257&sr=8-92

Would these cheap units clearly a better option than a soundcard plus SW ? i am mostly interested in sine and square waves
Thank you very much to all

Hi All,

1st time poster!

I'm running an old NAD 1600 and 2 NAD 2600's...sometimes bridged sometimes not.
I replaced the speaker relays in both 2600's a few months ago and now they work great!
The 1600 has now started to have the left channel louder than the right. I have confirmed this buy running each 2600 separately with a different pre-amp.

I haven't opened it up yet to take a look but am wondering, could it be something as simple as bad solder joints on the pre-in rca connectors?
or is it just time for a re-cap?

Any suggestions of caps if thats the case? I did find this kit from the UK
https://www.audio-high-store.com/product/nad-1600-upgrade-kit-audio-capacitors/

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
Foo

4 pieces,totaly new unused in gold color!
Price 160 euro or best offer!More info on contact.

Here you can disscuss and report issues with Botic Linux driver available at http://bbb.ieero.com/

Check also following spreadsheet with previously reported issues:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vAwx7zHmtXQ3_PbARUzz7eiF1bww4BSHf0kiqH5spqA/edit

Cronus/Hermes-BBB available here:
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/digital/cronus.aspx

Hermes-BBB thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/272053-hermes-bbb-botic-cape-beaglebone-black.html

I have 100+ pairs of these (NOS).



SOLD!!

I guarantee that these are genuine Sanken. Feel free to test them any way you like (or even crack them open to check the insides). If they turn out not to be genuine or if you have any doubts about their authenticity, you can send them back to me (I’ll cover all the return costs), and you’ll get a full refund.
You can mention this in PayPal when making the purchase.

PM me if interested.

Thanks for looking!

Probably a long shot but I am hoping to find an un built Cornet 2 board if anyone has one they never got around to building.
Thanks
Ed

Sem Marco iz Slovenije, ki obožuje glasbo in kakovostne avdio komponente. Že od malega sem ljubitelj tehnične opreme. Nekaj opreme imam tudi doma.
Vesel sem, da sem del ekipe z vami.
Pomagal ti bom, če bom lahko.

I have a Nakamichi BX300E on the workshop table, and after completing the service I discovered a faint howling/squealing sound from the drive. The frequency of the sound changes up and down when the pitch knob is turned. The sound seems to be produced by something mechanical - perhaps the flywheel? Has anyone observed a similar phenomenon? And what was the reason?

I have built Audio Electronics Supply AE1 and SE1. Then got a phono stage from an old RCA manual and built that. These are connected to a pair of Klipsch LaScalas and sound wonderful. Getting older now and am trying to downsize so wondering if there is interest in this stuff and a pickup load of other vintage gear and parts.

I have for sale a full set of drivers to build the famous Troels Gravesen Faital 3WC-10 3-way speaker pair.
I bought 2 sets and have another for sale because I only finished one set and don't need the other one. I planned to make a WMTMW version of this but the Gravesen original version is already good enough. I'm very happy with the sound of this speaker.

The following drivers are included:
-2x Scan-Speak D2608/913000 = Peerless HDS DT26/08 https://www.lautsprecherkauf.com/SCANSPEAK-D2608-913000.html
-> These are used, barely broken in. Terminals are soldered.
-2x Faital Pro 6RS140-8 http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Faital-3WC-10/6RS140-8.pdf
-> These are used in test cabinets but not even broken in
-2x Faital Pro 10RS350 http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Faital-3WC-10/10RS350.pdf
-> These are new in box, never used, in an unopened sealed box.

Jantzen Audio sells this set of drivers for 600 EUR without taxes, means around 750€ with local taxes + shipping.

I'm asking 500 EUR for the set.
Shipping cost will be added. I have the original boxes and can ship to almost anywhere. Ask for shipping quote to your location.

More info here: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Faital-3WC-10.htm Here is a summary of that page:
"Dynamic and with a degree of 3-dimensionality rivaling whatever speaker I have ever made, regardless of brand and costs. I know this is big words, but I'll stick my neck out for any comparison on transparency and 3-dimensionality"
"Of any mid-sized 3-way classic, this is the best I've made."

Attached are the photos of the actual drivers.

If you wish, I can measure the drivers using DATS v3 as a proof that they are working as they should.

so I was looking at an ebay seller and saw they were selling mkp10 but the seller labeled it as polyester. could it be a typo or perhaps mkp10 was polyester in the past? (20-30 years ago)

thanks

Hello guys,

I have recently been playing around with a Wondom JAB5 (adau1701 based dsp with 4x"100W" amplifier). This jurney have made me fall deeply in love with sigma studio. It makes working with my fusion amps feel like a joke.. really wished hypex would let us talk to and program the Adau1450 directly.. maan that would be awesome...

However, the Jab5 board and as far as the WWW tells me all other Wondom products have a rediciulesly high noise floor. I have used it to build a pair of pc speakers, and even at moderate listening levels the noise is still audible.
I really really wished there was a decent quality product for maybe double the price that just had the DSP and 8 outputs ready to be connected to amps, but i cant seem to find any.
The best i could find was the Ali/ebay baords discussed in this thread:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/low-cost-adau1452-china-board.309680/page-24#post-7781475
But having read that thread from start to end, i dont feel thats worth the hassel, simply to bad quality products...
Im leaning more and more towards the official AD eval board:
https://www.digikey.dk/da/products/detail/analog-devices-inc/EVAL-ADAU1452REVBZ/9809249
But the price of that board is almost the same as a full Fusion amp...

Is there really nothing in between china trash and top of the line AD board?

FreeDSP Aurora cauhgt my eye. However, i have no experience in pcb manufacturing via PCB-way and so on so it seems like a daunting process, and i have no clue what the final cost would be...

Has anyone here built the Aurora DSP within the last couple of years?
Is it still worth the effort?
Is it cheaper or more expensive than the AD eval board?
Can it be partially build to only have the DSP functionality without the usb stuff to save cost?

Really hoping for some feedback from someon with FreeDSP experience... Thanks in advance!!

So I built a test board to try and measure some ideas. I added the components for the famous Grundig DEM clocking and it was working fine. Then I though I check it against the data sheet single capacitor solution, I connected a 680 pF foil capacitor between pin 16 and 17. It does not work. There is some low level, high frequency oscillation, but definitely not the well known waveform that should be there. I checked the capacitor, potential solder bridges, continuity, everything looks in order. What did I miss? The chip is in a socket.

Thank you for accepting my registration. I stumble this website while researching Elekit Tube amp. I will attempt to make my first amp by building ACA Amp Kit. So I decided to join the community to ask for help since this is my first attempt and I would need some help from experienced members here.

Have a spare set of Toshiba transistors originally intended for another Whammy build that never happened. Consists of 2 2SK2013 and 2 2SJ313. Were bought here on the forums long time ago from a reliable source.

SOLD



(sorry no pics atm)

Hello, My STUDER D730 plays all Audio CDs perfectly till track 4 or 5 only & then it tries to read & stops.
What will be the problem here?

Can you provide your valuable feedback?

Maybe I'm just stupid, but I can't figure out how to "contact GerardV", as directed in the Member Blog area. There's no "start a discussion" option below his information box to contact him by. ??

I'm thinking about starting a blog, about a DIY project that others might be interested in, but if I can't do a blog then it might just have to be a forum thread.

Thanks
Bill

I've had an audiosource amp 310 faithfully serving me for over 9 years. It recently started behaving erratically, and now takes 20 or 30 minutes to eventually come on after being powered up. When but when it does come on, the amp functions just fine. The behavior is consistent regardless of the auto-on settings on the amp. There is no evidence of burnt components or leaking capacitors, so I am guessing there is a bad relay somewhere inside.

I have reached out to audiosource and googled high and low to find any information on this amplifier. There are several posts in this forum related to the amp 200/300 but from looking at the drawings, they are very different from the 210/310.

If anyone has any documentation on the 210/310 or advice generally, I would appreciate you sharing it.

Many thanks!
Brandon

Hi everyone.
I am new in the forum, and what a delight it has been to read some of the masterminds thoughts in here. I really want to build an amplifier with the TPA3255, and I am gonna be asking for advice on my build. Thanks in advance!

Hi guys, a B2 AUDIO M15R amplifier with a burned audio section is about to arrive at my lab.

Looking at the board online, it seems to be a classic Korean one with 1 X IR2184 + 2 X TC4452 buffer and if memory serves, it should use FDA20N50 as output mosfet.

If so, I saw that the output mosfet is not very easy to find at the moment.

Has anyone tried any reliable substitutes?
Did you have to make any changes?
thank you all

Hey there,

Kind of off-topic, but I need your opinion. I've got a pair of KEF X300A that aren't working any more. Apparently there is an issue with the power board. According to some comments on the internet, it's an expensive replacement that's probably not worth it.

I'm now wondering what I could do with them, I'm neither an audio nor electronics nerd (besides basic stuff). Does it make sense/is it possible to use them as passive speakers somehow?

I'm thinking about replacing them and wonder with what. I've used them as Desktop speakers, the sound is excellent. But I'm not sure if I want to use active speakers any more, don't want to throw them away again if they break.

Anyone got an idea?
Thanks a lot!

This is a companion thread to:

Installing and using LTspice IV (now including LTXVII). From beginner to advanced.

********************************************************************************************************************

LTspice 17.1 is a significant upgrade to LTspice XVII, including new features and numerous performance and stability enhancements:

• Transient Frequency Domain Analysis. LTspice 17.1 includes a new frequency response analyzer component and associate .fra spice directive.
• Frequency domain analysis has been reduced to a single component and directive, greatly simplifying the generation of Bode plots for non-linear circuits, including switched mode power supplies
• Both loop gain and output impedance are supported by this feature
• Improved Installation. LTspice library files are stored in users’ %LOCALAPPDATA% directories, instead of My Documents
• Waveform Viewer. Faster plotting speed for large datasets
• Keyboard Shortcuts. Keyboard shortcuts can be saved to and loaded from text files
• Schematic Capture. Numerous schematic editor bugs have been eradicated
• Simulator Operation
• Fixed a number of convergence problems
• Updated initial conditions behavior and documentation to match behavior
• Reduced multi-threaded CPU loading

We, the LTspice development team we are very interested over your feedback.

***********************************************************************************************************************

This thread is very much a work in progress and is not intended to be a definitive tutorial.

Take away points at a glance:

The locations and file paths of the directories used by LT are as follows:

%userprofile%\AppData\Local\LTspice
(this is user profile location of the 'examples' and 'lib' folders that in LTXVII were located in 'Documents')

%userprofile%\AppData\Local\Programs\ADI\LTspice
(this is the location of the program files that in LTXVII were located in C:\ program files)

%userprofile%\AppData\Local\Temp
(this is a temp folder. Running a .asc from a file located in the above link (program files) will create a zipped temp folder for that particular sim )

The latest incarnation of LTspice brings some fundamental changes to the way LT is installed and used. The big difference is in the locations used to store the program files and in its handling of temporary files.

If you are installing alongside an existing installation then only certain sections of what follows will be applicable.

Also note that Analog Devices have said that the new version coexists happily with the older version. I made the personal decision to move exclusively to the latest version because I felt that two systems that are fundamentally different in their operation and in their handling of files was going to be problematic although YMMV on that viewpoint.

Having decided to make the switch now to exclusively use the latest version I devised this procedure. What follows relates to Windows and was devised to give a clean install of the latest version.

Warning... make sure to back up ALL of your personal LT files and models wherever they may be located. If you have any residing in the protected program files area then back these up BEFORE uninstalling LTXVII

1/ Download the new version of LT direct from the analog.com site. Do not install at this point.

https://www.analog.com/en/design-center/design-tools-and-calculators/ltspice-simulator.html

2/ Uninstall the existing installation of LTXVII via Windows 'Control Panel' by going to 'Programs and Features' and clicking on LTXVII. Follow the on screen instructions. Also
delete or unpin any shortcuts you may have on the taskbar, start menu and desktop. The program deletion will not affect any of the existing LT files in your user Documents Folder. This includes the 'Example' and Lib' folders.



3/ Manually delete the 'Examples' folder from the Documents location of LTXVII

4/ Manually delete the 'Lib' folder from the Documents location of LTXVII but first check you have copies of all your own models you may have created.

5/ Copy the LTXVII folder in Documents to a secure location if needed for future reference. In my case this contains all my own LT files of information, sims etc.

6/ Delete the LTXVII folder in Documents and restart the PC. Remember to make sure you have backups of personal files located here.

7/ Warning. Do this next procedure at your own risk. Modifying the registry can cause system instability if done incorrectly. What I am doing here is deleting all references of LTXVII that have been left behind following the uninstall.

Open 'Regedit' and click 'Edit' and 'Find'. Delete all entries relating to 'LTspice'. Use 'Find Next' to work through the registry. When completed restart the PC. A further check should now reveal no instances of LT remaining.







8/ You can now run the installer for the new version in the normal way. Accept the license agreement and follow the wizard. Installation is very rapid compared to the older version and took under 10 seconds.

9/ You will now have a new desktop icon for LTspice. Hover over the icon and note the file path. I would recommend you create a text file and paste all these file paths to
that as a means of keeping a record of what is where. This is very important because the installation is now in a non indexed location which is a major plus point for
anyone who uses disk imaging. This is because the Windows index file is not normally included in a disk image and it can take a long long time to rebuild following a
restore. Before I started this I had around 38k indexed items. This figure is now around 25k with most of those 'missing' entries being the tiny model files included with LT.



10/ The first thing I noticed opening the new version is that the new version doesn't scale correctly and the text on the top toolbars is not as sharp as it should be.
That may be because of custom setting I use within Windows. To correct this close LTspice and then right click the desktop icon and click 'Show More Options' and
select 'Properties'. Copy the file target file path which for me is:

C:\Users\karls\AppData\Local\Programs\ADI\LTspice\LTspice.exe

and enter that file path in Windows search box to open the location.

Right click the search result and select 'open file location'.

Alter the High DPI setting as shown.



11/ Reopen LTspice and the text should now be pin sharp. If Windows opens a box asking Did this program work correctly' answer as appropriate. Hopefully a yes.
I would suggest you now familiarise yourself with the main differences in how LT operates and works with files and folders. Remember that target file path from
earlier. If you look at that but this time delete the end part of LTspice.exe you will open the location of the files if you paste it into the Windows search box.

You should see the familiar 'Example' and 'Lib' folders are now located here (see above image). Notice they are now zipped (compressed) folders by default.

13/ At this point I think it useful to create a shortcut to open the location where LT now resides. I placed two Icon Files (.ico) that I created earlier in the new location that LT resides in and
created a shortcut using these icons. One is for the Program Files and one for Temp Files which we will cover later (Step 13 below).

To add the .ico image. Right click the shortcut and select 'Properties' and the 'Change Icon' tab. You need the file path of the icon to paste into the location box.
If the icon symbol does not display when applied to the shortcut then just 'refresh' the desktop.



The program file shortcut should open to this.



12/ I recommend you now run an example such as the 'Audio Amp' found in the new Examples folder. If you are running alongside an existing installation be sure to use the
new folder.

Run the simulation in the normal way and then close LT.

13/ We will now look at a major difference in the new version. Open LT again and click 'Control Panel' (the hammer symbol on the toolbar). Click the 'Operation' tab and
note the filepath for temp files. This is my file path.

C:\Users\karls\AppData\Local\Temp

I would recommend you copy and paste that file path into a new shortcut which will give you easy access to this location.

Close LT again.

14/ Navigate to this new Temp File location and you should see a Zipped folder that was created when you ran the example above. It remains there until you delete it. Each temp
folder contains the three temporary files we are familiar with in the old version.

Run another simulation and another zipped folder is created. So by leaving LT at its default settings we find we have a new zipped folder that is created for each occasion that a simulation is run.
This is something to be aware of this as the space these take up will increase over time.

Keeping tabs on all these is why I recommend creating those two shortcuts to give you easy and instant access to the file locations.

Hi guys!!! Any experience with this kit NAIM DIY Kit? Worth It to give It a try?
Thanks in advance

Hello,
I wanted to design an open source and open hardware DAC around the AK4499 DAC Chip that other members are free to copy, reuse, share, and remix. I previously started a thread for doing this around the ES9038, which piqued my interest at first, but have found that the restrictions that ESS places on their documents go against the values of this project. I am moving forward with the AK4499 As the DAC chip, either using another AK chip or the WM8805. Planning on using either an Op-amp or JFET based I-V stage, and separate LDO's for each of the power supplies on the chip. Unfortunately haven't seen the Eval Board schematics, would appreciate if somebody could post them.

Hello!

I hope someone of you can help me with the following problem:

Does anyone rember to the giant 1000 from elektor?

I have biult this amp but it makes some trouble.
First of all i had to replace the original 2SK135/2SJ50 to the 2SK1058/2SJ162. Then i had to biult up a new PCB to fit the schematic on a 100x300mm card. The new layout is very similar to the original from elektor except that i mounted all MOSFETS and the voltage regulators on the same heatsink. Next i built the security schematic from the giant 2000 also from elektor, because its better then that one for the giant 1000. After that i tested the amp. Everthing works fine till the relay in the outputline conected the speaker to the amp. I hear a little hum and when i switch the amp off the relay falls after 5ms. In this time period, a very nasty and loud noise comes from the speaker.
Does anyoune built up this amp and made the same experience with it in the power-off sequence?

thx

PS: if you need more information, please ask.

Can anyone explain to me what the #'s on the TAD beryllium diaphragms mean and how does this correspond to the shims being used?

I have a couple diaphragms that seem to be missing a few shims and want to correctly get the phase plug / diaphragm gap back into spec.

Thanks

Selling my Teac AI-503. This was used in my second set for a couple of years without any issues.
There are few minor scratches on the top lid, can be seen in the photos. Also, one meter backlight lamp has been replaced, so the backlight color is slightly different on the other side, also can be seen on the photos.
Price 300€ 230€, can be shipped almost anywhere. I do have the original package.

Let me share an idea I had some days ago that's spinning round my head.
As I was experimenting with a few material combinations in order to build a CLD based platform for my DIY TT I came up with the following: Why not have a segmented design?

It may look like this:

My idea behind that was, that the feet of the TT as well as the motor unit will stand on separate segments. So for example the vibration propagation from one foot to the other would be less than with a standard platform where all feet and the motor unit would stand on the same plate.

Let me hear your thoughts on this.

Cheers
Stephan

I will give specific details on the project I am working on but this should apply to most others too if one adjusts accordingly.

In the example project, we will utilize B&C S218BP subwoofer enclosures with 18DS115 drivers. In the end we aim to have 12 of these enclosures. They will be crossed around 60-80hz to our midbass enclosures (they can play down to 60hz in stacks and each contain 2x15" B&C drivers). On top of the midbass we have tops.

I will calculate the mutual coupling distance from 80hz as they will still be making a lot of spl around there even when crossed at 60hz. 80hz has a wavelength of about 4.29 meters. 1/4 of it is about 1.07 meters. So, theoretically mutual coupling within working passband is possible within 1m distance.
Adhering to that, there would still be many ways to stack these. What would be the pros and cons for these different scenarios?

*Please, let's assume open-air, so no room gain etc. to effect our preference.

Here are the three different scenarios.
Scenario 1


Scenario 2


Scenario 3

Hi. I've just arrived here trying to find some info on a stereo I'm trying to "fix". I need some info on the Creative SoundWorks 740. I am trying to modify it so that I can retain the clock and throw away most of the rest of it. Bit of a silly idea, but that is where I have got up to!

If anyone has any info on the LCD circiut board on this, I'd appreciate it.

Regards

Lawrence

Hi

I have a Creative SoundWorks 740 that I am trying to modify rather than throwing away, and I could do with some guidance!

I want to keep the front panel (because I like the clock) a throw away the rest. I need to power the front panel independantly. Does anyone have any idea of the voltage required and where to apply it? It looks like there are some 74 series chips on the board which (I think) implies a 5v circuit but wondered if anyone had any ideas

Taking it a step further, getting the radio working again would be a bonus - though I would need to add an amp of course.

Thanks

Lawrence

What happened here? Anybody know? I`m asking as I`m going to Croatia next week. I understand that Prasimix lived there a while ago.

R

Hey all, just introducing myself here. I'm a product designer living in San Francisco. I began tinkering with electronics a couple of years ago. My experience so far has been centered on vintage gear. I have restored three Sansui Au-717's, Marantz Sixteen, Marantz 2020 and a Yamaha 1020. I have also built an Elekit Pre amp. I'm interested in learning more and taking on a new challenge, my next project will be an amplifier build of the Honeybadger. Thank you for sharing all of your knowledge and supporting us newb's!
I'm looking forward to attending Burning Amp this year and maybe meeting some of you in person!

Hey there,
Former Home Theater designer / installer and Car Audio store owner... I've got a lot to learn about Pro Audio, which is why I'm here. Hopefully, I can make useful contributions to the community. Thanks for such a great forum to learn from.

Hi from a Kiwi based here in Southern Finland, getting back into electronics as I get closer to retirement. Was once a Radio Tech with a keen interest in all things audio. Things have changed a lot since I was on the bench but picking up new skills, equipment and techniques. If only my eyes were as good as they once were! Microscope is on the shopping list for sure! Here's the messy workshop in its current state of disrepair, Disembowelled Anthem on the bench as I trace an Amp protection fault without a schematic, Anthem just wont give 'em out, So need to do it the hard way!

Have found some valuable hints in this forum so thought it was about time I joined up. Who knew that the Pioneer A-400X DC protection cct could be found lurking in this Anthem!

Well, poof might not be the best wording as it implies release of the "magic smoke". But, I am here and hoping to learn a thing or two...or share...either way!

Hi all friend! I am Alex. I am from Kazakhstan. I am service engineer by repair and commissioning of industrial uninterruptible power supplies. Working many years with UPS of ABB, Newave, GE DE, Socomec and so on. Soldering and repairing of audio amplifiers is my hobby. Hope will be part of your community.

Has anybody (tried to) build Broskie's Brazilian otl amplifier? And if so what afterburner transistors did you use?

https://www.tubecad.com/2018/03/blog0416.htm ​

Hello all from The Netherlands. As a long time audio and diy lover I want to introduce myself. I built the Sachin AD797 phono amp (hypnotised) to good success. I hope to build some more stuff.

Cheers!

Hello 🙂

I simulated a closed Box design in Akabak and i also built it. My Impedance Graph in Akabak looks odd to me. Here yo u can see the LEM Page, with all the Parameters for the Driver.



The Values are all correct. Driver is B&C8BG51.

Here is the Impedance Graph, calculated by Akabak.



The Resonance frequenzy around 90Hz is fine but towards the higher Frequencies id expect a rise in Impedance. And that is what i measured in REW aswell.



I should add, since this could be the Problem. The only Impedance i can measure in Akabak is the Source Impedance. I assume it is the Impedance "seen" by the source but i may be wrong.

kind regards and a nice weekend

Elias

Selling this beautiful plate amp. Was bought for a speaker project which was cancelled...
Firmware of the amp is 5.4, its the version which ast FIR included.
Price is 300€ + shipping from germany to all over the world...
Picture will be sent as soon as I am at home.

Best regards,
Eddy

My situation is that I have a venerable EMU-0404 USB soundcard which appears to offer quite low levels of harmonic distortion for loopback tests, but I could not confirm whether the DAC/headphone output signal was the primary contributor to HD levels, or whether the ADC/input was a substantial contributor. So far it has not been a concern to how I use the soundcard for bench-top measurements, as the inherent soundcard HD levels are well below any DUT scenario I have had. However, interest to assess this topic has increased over the last year or two as my go-to software REW now has enhanced features to assess low HD levels due to coherent averaging, and the ability to add in trace levels of harmonic distortion in its tone generator. The selective addition of harmonics can effectively null HD levels down in to the noise floor for a specific sinewave frequency and hence provide a high performance poor-man's oscillator that seemingly approaches the likes of what some have built on this forum.

I don't have an AP style system to investigate this topic, so am running the gauntlet by using just the DUT soundcard itself and a diy passive resistor-divider attenuator, and a passive twin-T notch filter.

With a plain loopback setup, a 1kHz tone with headphone level pot at max can generate a low distortion signal of up to 2.46Vrms (using a software setting up to 943mVrms of a 1V FS level). That 2.46Vrms level does not overload the ADC/input when the input pot is at min, and adjustment of added harmonic levels can suppress loopback harmonic levels to <-130dBr for H2 and <-140dBr for H3.

With a passive -20dB resistor divider attenuator included in the loopback, and with no added harmonics to the 1kHz sinewave, the default 2H level of -115dBr is reduced to -122dBr, and the default 3H level of -103dBr is about the same at -102dBr. It is impractical to attenuate by more than about 20dB as the 2H is starting to approach the noise floor. This result seems to indicate the ADC/input circuitry does contribute some of its own 2H (as 2H dropped by about 7dB) for an input level of 2.46Vrms, however the 3H level had no significant change.

When a notch filter is included in the loopback, the ADC/input is exposed to a much lower fundamental (about 65dB lower than 2.46Vrms) and so loopback measured HD levels likely include a much lower ADC/input contribution. When the nulled harmonic signal was applied to the notch filter, the measured HD levels increased by about 20-30dB to about -110dBr. Readjustment of the added harmonic levels was then needed to supress 2H and 3H levels down to <-140dBr again.

What I see from these tests is that this soundcard is likely to achieve sinewave harmonic distortion levels down at the <-140dBr (<0.00001%) level as a nominal 2.5Vrms test oscillator. Achieving such a low HD level would require a notch filter as a way to suppress ADC/input related distortion from a loopback measurement used to set up the low distortion waveform.

One advantage of this type of poor-man's oscillator is that test frequencies are not limited to a particular instrument (such as the 1kHz models that are typically being used), although the choice of a particular test frequency does imply that a notch filter is available at that frequency. As such, I am about to pull out a circa 1970's boat anchor AWA F240 Distortion and Noise meter, as it includes a very nice twin-T notch filter tuneable from 10Hz to 30kHz.

Hi,

I'm a long time lurker.

I'm going to use two Wavcor WF168WA02 (+ Vifa NE25VTS-04 tweeter) with a DS270-PR (to keep the enclosure as small as possible) to build an active 2.5-way for fun, so I read Qts should be below 0.5, in "Explain it like I'm 5" terms, why and what happens if I break the 0.5 rule?

Wavcor Q:
7.10 - Mechanical Q (Qms)
0.56 - Electrical Q (Qes)
0.52 - Total Q (Qts)

I'm a hobbyist wanting to build a few speakers mainly to tinker with CamillaDSP and using a different amp channel for every driver. I'm not wanting to delve much into math, making perfect enclosures or passive crossovers. It's definitely not about perfection for me.

In the future I'll probably cannibalise old speakers and buy new drivers to experiment. I went with cheapish drivers because I figured I might mess things up.

I have a workshop, can work with wood and metal, know how to solder and have quite a few bits of electrical test equipment.

Cheers
Richard

Current main Roon system:
MiniDSP CH1 > Valvet A1r > Salk Songtower RT
MiniDSP CH2 > Valvet A1r > Salk Songtower RT
MiniDSP CH3 > SVS 3000 micro
MiniDSP CH4 > SVS 3000 micro

Has anyone had any experiences with VRDS-9?Dac is on 4xpcm1702. On the screen You can see analog for one chanel, starting from output 2xpcm1702.

So far I have changed SM5840AP to SM5842AP (pin-pin, of course the fader and other functions from the processor do not work because they are not connected). I installed an external clock. I changed the capacitors in the power supply, recap - I think it makes no sense. They were good but when I bought them I put them in. Changed chemicon ASF to panasonic FR and FC. I also changed the capacitors in the DAC, (a lot of them around the PCM1702) 4.7uf electrolytes with red WIM MKS2.

It plays better than before, but I can probably still do a lot with an analogue. I would like to change capacitors in signal path 100pf and 1nf on mica and styroflex and resistors for coposite allen bradley or dale.

I have dip8 adapters to get rid of the opamps, which are probably average. They use U/I m5238l and later 2114, probably a filter.

There's a servo board on the bottom of the drive - lots of surface-mount polymer electrolytes. I wonder if they need to be recapped after some time. Polymers from 20 years ago are often average. I have poor experience, their lifespan was different in the past.

I also have a strange problem with the laser. I replaced the original KSS213C from Rotel, where it played without any problems, but in Teac it sometimes skips, freezes and overheats the CD discs. Additionally, sometimes there is a problem with pulling out the drawer. The drive sprocket has been checked and is perfect.

Can anyone help?

I'm sure there is a very simple answer that I'm simply not getting.

I have a 10" woofer and an 8" subwoofer. In free air the 10" woofer has a much greater physical reaction to inaudible rumble.

Why?

I have revisited my ELD amp designed about 20 years ago that was inspired by a previous thread in the last week or so. Its distortion I cannot measure on anything available to me, only by simulation.
According to MicroCAP-12 simulator there is an improvement from the original that uses no boutique components and are run-of-the-mill semi-conductors. However, all transistors, resistors and caps were closely now matched on the equipment I have available.

Now the distortion profile is not monotonic as Hugh would prefer and I cannot hear any difference in the un-modified channel compared to the modified channel.

Since I have gone through the trouble doing one channel, I may as well do the other and be done with it. I am not publishing it here to receive any praise of any kind, I would just like to share it with anyone that may be interested to build it. All Gerber files are available should you want it.

I cannot really tell what it sounds like, probably nothing, it reproduces music, that is about all. What I have done was to connect the input to one channel of a scope and the output to the other channel and played both music, sine and square wave through the amp. I performed an A-B comparison on the scope and I see nothing but a straight line. I tried running a square wave through MicroCAP-12 but it just hangs on step size too small. All I could do was run a battery switching on then reverse voltage and saw only a slight delay in the transient response and guess that is probably the best answer I will get.

I don't even know whether I am satisfied with these small mods, mainly resistor changes, I am now swapping components to the remaining channel and be done with it until I itch again.

I would be keen to have some comments for improvements because it is not only distortion that is of significance, but hey everyone are hooked on THD. The THD was simulated at full 100 watt, below the onset of clipping.

Hi all,

New member here, and yes I came on because I ran into issues with my setup and decided I can no longer survive this through google searches and need some real human interaction.

I have a pair of Adam S5X-V's if that's a flex of some sort....

Nice to meet you all

Been into hifi since 1994. Hope to learn a lot inhere.

- Kim

Passionate about vintage HIFI, especially REVOX, STUDER and B&W. I love restoring to give them a new life .

And I also am a passionate music lover...

Best regards from Belgium
Fabien

Hi all. working up to a 45 type build and hoping for some assistance.

Some background. I have built Elekit 8900 and 8600 kits. I have been wanting to build my own amplifier from scratch for sometime now. I’ve been watching online videos and read several books on tube amps. To be honest, having no electronics background, my head starts to nod when reading the books—much of it remains over my head. I have a long way to go but I’m slowly getting there.

Time to get my hands dirty and do some building. I learn more by doing than reading. Hoping the book info will make more sense as I go.

To ease into this project, I bought set of 45 mono blocks locally from craigslist with hopes of some simple upgrades and modifications. After this, I will embark on a new build from scratch.

Again, my knowledge is extremely limited, but I’m working on it. Please be patient.

I have poked through the amplifier and drawn up a schematic and measured the voltages. This looks like a possible 45 variant of the JC Morrison 300B design. Even with my limited knowledge, a few issues have already jumped out at me. The first cap in the power supply concerns me and the voltages on the 6SN7 seem low. I would like more voltage across the 45. Also the way the 6SN7 heater voltage has been raised seems unusual.

The knowledge in these forums blows my mind! Hoping to pick up just a little bit of it and enjoy this hobby. Looking for some specific recommendations on voltages and required resistor values to achieve.

Thanks!

EDIT: I am on step one of a two-step process. Step one being modifying the monoblocks on hand has a learning experience. The second step will be building a 45 from scratch based on what I learn in step one.

As stated above, I already own an Elekit 2A3 and 300B amplifiers and will be staying with a 45 build and modifying these monoblocks first.

These mono blocks are a pretty cool junk box type build with some cool vintage bits, but I suspect the builder used what was on hand for resistors and caps and there may be room for improvement. I am not going to do a complete redesign of these amps. I want to stick with the original design and drivers.

In a nutshell, I am looking for:

1. any obvious or dangerous design flaws (bleeder resistors, and such… I got a nasty shock 10 minutes after unplugging… No tubes installed. My bad. Fortunate I didn't kill myself...hope others can learn from my mistake. This **** is real.

2. more voltage across the 45.

3. increase voltage to the 6SN7 to get closer to a linear operating point.

All within the constraints of the current power transformer...ie. resistor and capacitor tweaks. Looking for improvement, not perfection at this point.

Hi, dear all,
I am FrankieS from Germany.
Interested in planar loudspeakers, Infinitiy Kappa 8 & 9, tube audio gear.

Have everybody a nice, sunny day. Good to be here.

FrankieS

Hello. I have a adcom preamp with only a single phono input. I have tube amps and decent speakers. I got an Alexandra 2 and also a homebuilt DIY table. I’d love to have a phono source selector to switch between the two but hear about noise introduced by sloppy switches. Any suggestions for an input or should I get a tube phono preamp? Recommendations.
Thanks.

Hi,

So I've ordered a few bits to start tinkering with DIY speakers and CamillaDSP (RPi5 & HiFiBerry DAC8x):

4 x Wavcor WF168WA02
2 x Vifa NE25VTS-04 tweeter)
3 x TPA3255 boards -- (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006640455408.html)

I'm pretty unsure about proper tinkering "safety", basically how to avoid destroying things.

I'm not planning passive crossovers. I'm going to use an amp channel for every driver.

I gather I should use a 'protection cap' on the tweeters.

I'm going to run the TPA3255 boards from a 24v SMPS dialed back a few volts that should severely limit the watts going to the drivers. I was thinking one TPA3255 board for one L & R driver so one TPA3255 board to run the tweeters. I want each woofer to have it's own amp channel so that I can try a 2.5-way crossover.

So the question is what additional precautions should I use while testing?

Thanks
Richard

Hi, I have a technical question, hopefully someone can enlighten me.... I am from USA, which uses 120V 60Hz power sources. If I buy an AV or an amplifier from Japan, which uses 100V 50Hz, and import to the US:
1. WITHOUT THE POWER CONVERTER (Step up/down..etc..), will the Japanese's unit (which uses 100V-50Hz) be working properly?
2. Assumed it works, will the differences in the electrical current affect/change the sound quality, performance of the receiver/amp?
3. Will the different in electrical current affect the longevity of the unit?

4. Can I buy the power supply from the US version unit, and replace the japanse's power supply.... will that fix all the issues? or will there be more to it (tuning inside the circuitry...etc). I am aware the radio frequencies will be different, but I am not using the radio. Thanks

Harman Kardon AVR 110. Picked up for $10. Has common issue of memory capacitor failure. I’d like to spend as little as possible, shipped to Georgia, USA. Any recommendations? I’m not in a rush so slow shipping is fine. Do I need an “exact” replacement? I wish I could put any old cap in there. Thanks!

PS- leads look short because they broke off as I bent it vertical. They broke off in the middle of the leads, not at the board.

I'd like to buy someone's solid state amplifier, CONUS, preferably class AB, or a SS or tube preamp. I'm redoing my system and no time / energy to build something myself. And, frankly, commercial stuff just doesn't impress me much anymore on performance relative to cost

Let me know what you have with $ and pictures, again CONUS only

Greetings from the far reaches of Rhode Island. No, it's not even an island!

I first fell in love with soldering in the late 1960s building a Heathkit stereo receiver. That was followed by several other Heathkit projects. I have done several re-caps of old music equipment, and am currently rejuvenating a McIntosh C22 (very first model). I recently build a Moog Model D clone (with SMDs, no less!) and am about to start its final testing and calibration. I got 2/3 the way through building a 176 compressor from Drip Electronics, but that is paused indefinitely until the designer/owner of Drip follows through with answering questions -- a topic for another day :-(

I just successfully upgraded the power supply on my trusty Linn LP12 and I am about to re-cap and calibrate two Hickok 752A tube testers. A complete overhaul of a Phase Linear 400 (a very early model) is next up on the docket. Now that I am retired, every day is Saturday and I have more time for all these projects!

-Jon

Could anyone can help in this matter?

Prologue:
I realize, for example, a passive “8 ohm nominal” rated home speaker’s impedance/resistance will vary greatly when being used, but will “generally” (in my experience) measure somewhere roughly between 4 and 10 ohms when at rest.

So, when I pick up used speakers, I’ll measure their resting impedance before hooking them up to my amp for no other reason than to make sure there isn’t something wacky going on that might trigger my amp’s protection circuitry or otherwise harm it.

I picked up some used klipsch speakers (2 way, 2 woofers + 1 tweeter, nominal 8 ohm). One measures 15 megaohms and the other measures 21 megaohms.

That seems way out of the ordinary so I opened them up. I disconnected the tweeters and woofers and they all measure what you’d expect on their own (something like 5-ish ohms). Not shorted and not “open”.
So now I’m looking at this crossover and trying to figure out where to start looking for problems. Nothing appears “wrong” based on appearances. No bulging caps, or burn marks, etc. My first thought was that thermistor, but (in circuit) it measures 0.4 ohms, which seems reasonable. Am I wasting time measuring any of the components “in circuit” or must they be removed, the caps are glued to the board and will have to be pryed off.

Moving away. Need to clean spaces.
The frame measurement is made based on Martin King's measurement/simulation.
http://www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/U_and_H_Frames.pdf

The H-frame sub has great deep bass up to 250 hz or 400 hz depends on how you adjust your cutoff frequency with your crossover. I found the ideal XOVER point is 160 hz, 180hz, 200hz, 250 hz. Depending how you want to blend it with your Fullrange drivers

Drivers are Goldwood Sound GW-1858. I chose the driver based on Martin's recommedation for 18'' open baffle driver based on his measurement. I tested out and it sounds amazing with my open baffle speaker system.
Size : 23'' x 23'' x 16''

Asking price 100 usd for the pair frames + drivers.

Thick wood slap panel i'm using to build this project is more than my asking price.

Located in San Diego, CA. Local pickup is encouraged due to size and weight of the driver and material.

3177e0d5-6b34-4ce8-b7de-7bb11e34c9ca

a66e5f2d-6c41-47fb-9b36-789fbf7fba4e

3486bff8-293e-4296-be30-a7ab312880b3

746c891b-6e9f-4f09-bfe9-69ab6b6c86bb

Hello guys,

I currently have a Kenwood C1 and M1, or a Cambridge Audio Topaz SR10. The differences between the two are pretty minor from what I am hearing coming out of my speakers so I currently use the Topaz as it has a remote. My DAC is a SMSL C200, my Phono stage is a Clearaudio nano v2 and I use a Technics 1210 MK5.

I loved the Kenwood stack and it was a noticeable upgrade from my previous NAD 3155.

The speakers I use are Audio Physics Yara 2 compacts, they are not optimally placed at all, they sit above a wall to wall desk on fairly cheap wall mounts, and one speaker is basically in a corner. I can do up to 4 or 5 inches away from the back wall and the corner speaker is about 6 inches away from the side wall.

The reason I want to upgrade is because I am having some issues with the Kenwood, it recently blew the tweeters on my B&W CDM1 SE's, and I also find all my speakers fatiguing. People advised me that if I find the B&W's and the Audio Physics fatiguing, its probably the amp that needs a change. I personally think it is also due to placement of the speakers. They are about 4.5' apart and angled in a bit as I listen from the back of my room but also from the desk when I am at my computer. They are most fatiguing when I am sitting at the desk. The only speakers I do not find fatiguing at all are Totem Mites, and I had these powered by the Kenwood stack. The only problem is that they lack bass, and I can't always have the subwoofer on as it is somehow louder in the rest of my house than in my room at listening levels.

I found a Cambridge CXA60 and a Simaudio Moon i.5 (not i-5) (its apparently the same as the 220i, I do not know why it has two names).

The Simaudio moon will cost me 100 CAD more plus shipping, the CXA60 would not require shipping.

I bought the Audio Physics Yara 2 speakers because I found the B&W's too fatiguing in my small room, and I did not get a good soundstage illusion from them with the very improper positioning I have to use. The Yara 2 do much better with soundstage in my setup but are still somehow fatiguing.

What kind of upgrades could i expect from the two integrated amps I can purchase and which one would you guys reccomend? Would buying something cheaper also be an option? I would be spending 100 to 200 CAD more on the amplifier then on the speakers themselves so I do not know if that is money well spent or not.

Some people also recommended tube pre amps to lessen the listening fatigue, but I do not have room for a tube preamp as my amps are hanging from the underside of my desk, and the desk space is taken up by the Turntable and computer system.

Thanks a lot!