Harman Kardon AVR 110. Picked up for $10. Has common issue of memory capacitor failure. I’d like to spend as little as possible, shipped to Georgia, USA. Any recommendations? I’m not in a rush so slow shipping is fine. Do I need an “exact” replacement? I wish I could put any old cap in there. Thanks!
PS- leads look short because they broke off as I bent it vertical. They broke off in the middle of the leads, not at the board.
PS- leads look short because they broke off as I bent it vertical. They broke off in the middle of the leads, not at the board.
Attachments
This should work.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cda-(zhifengwei-technology)/CHP5R5L474R-TW/21849002
If you mail the order to Digikey with a check for the cap plus your state sales tax, the shipping is free.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cda-(zhifengwei-technology)/CHP5R5L474R-TW/21849002
If you mail the order to Digikey with a check for the cap plus your state sales tax, the shipping is free.
6. Shipping Charges.
Products Shipping from DigiKey's Warehouse. Except as otherwise provided on the Site, (1) shipping or freight charges and insurance will be paid by the customer*, (2) all sales are made FOB DigiKey's warehouse in Thief River Falls, MN, USA (unless Products are shipped directly from the supplier), and (3) shipping or freight charges from DigiKey's warehouse in Thief River Falls, MN, USA are prepaid and added to the invoice, billed collect or billed to a third party.
* When a check or money order accompanies your order, DigiKey pays all shipping and insurance via ground service level to all addresses in the U.S. and Canada.
Products Shipping from DigiKey's Warehouse. Except as otherwise provided on the Site, (1) shipping or freight charges and insurance will be paid by the customer*, (2) all sales are made FOB DigiKey's warehouse in Thief River Falls, MN, USA (unless Products are shipped directly from the supplier), and (3) shipping or freight charges from DigiKey's warehouse in Thief River Falls, MN, USA are prepaid and added to the invoice, billed collect or billed to a third party.
* When a check or money order accompanies your order, DigiKey pays all shipping and insurance via ground service level to all addresses in the U.S. and Canada.
No problem, I've been doing that for a long time. The way I manage my projects,
I frequently need a couple of parts that I forgot, and Digikey is just the place to go.
Don't forget the total retail sales tax for your city/county/state (not for MN unless you live there).
Round up if a fraction of a cent.
I frequently need a couple of parts that I forgot, and Digikey is just the place to go.
Don't forget the total retail sales tax for your city/county/state (not for MN unless you live there).
Round up if a fraction of a cent.
Excellent! Thank you!
One last question as I’m still an amateur. There shouldn’t be a problem with me soldering in a pair of 6” or so leads for the “memory” cap and putting this thing back together and using it with the cap not installed, should there? It should still function otherwise, yes? The location of the cap requires quite a bit of tear down and this relocation would put it on the end of the set of leads that would be strapped to the other wires going to and from the chassis to the faceplate, making it very accessible if it ever had to be changed again and would allow me to use the avr while I wait for the part and find the time to install it. Or does all that seem crazy? Lol. Thanks!
One last question as I’m still an amateur. There shouldn’t be a problem with me soldering in a pair of 6” or so leads for the “memory” cap and putting this thing back together and using it with the cap not installed, should there? It should still function otherwise, yes? The location of the cap requires quite a bit of tear down and this relocation would put it on the end of the set of leads that would be strapped to the other wires going to and from the chassis to the faceplate, making it very accessible if it ever had to be changed again and would allow me to use the avr while I wait for the part and find the time to install it. Or does all that seem crazy? Lol. Thanks!
Electrically its fine even if the leads are 6 foot long... but we just don't do this 
It would look awful and is... ho hum... very amateurish and is open to accidental shorts and so on.
If you are really worried over having to replace it again then see if you could fit 'solder pins' to the board and solder the cap to the pins. Whatever you do or come up with, any replacement parts (in my book) have to pass the test of looking indistinguishable from a factory fitment.
It would look awful and is... ho hum... very amateurish and is open to accidental shorts and so on.If you are really worried over having to replace it again then see if you could fit 'solder pins' to the board and solder the cap to the pins. Whatever you do or come up with, any replacement parts (in my book) have to pass the test of looking indistinguishable from a factory fitment.
Thanks for the input! If you could see inside this chassis, it’s crazy how many bundles of wires are going to and from the faceplate. Even several wide ribbon cables. It would be super easy to place the wires with capacitor on the end, strapped under one of these bundles, making it invisible. The inside of this avr reminds me of the inside of an old tower PC wiring from 20-30 yrs ago. Lol.
The reason a socket arrangement for future possible replacement wouldn’t be worth it is because it’s not desoldering/soldering the part that is the issue. It’s getting to the board itself. It takes removal of the top cover and then the faceplate which means waaaaay more screws than seem necessary, and several very short ground leads need unscrewing, clipping like 20 zip ties holding all those bundles of wires in order to get enough slack to tilt the faceplate down enough to remove a bunch of screws to get to the hidden/“inside” of the circuit board where the part is soldered in. And then doing the reverse to get everything buttoned back up and all those bundles of wires back in places and zip tied down again. Lastly, I have no idea how long it will take to get the part. The post office has been running very slow the last few months. It seems all my mail gets stuck in the Atlanta area for days and days. Running the leads now and putting it back together should allow me to keep using the unit without memory until the part arrives. It would be simple to pull out the leads and solder the cap to the end and tuck it back under the wire bundle. I just wanted to know if it was okay to do this “electrically”. 👍🏼
The reason a socket arrangement for future possible replacement wouldn’t be worth it is because it’s not desoldering/soldering the part that is the issue. It’s getting to the board itself. It takes removal of the top cover and then the faceplate which means waaaaay more screws than seem necessary, and several very short ground leads need unscrewing, clipping like 20 zip ties holding all those bundles of wires in order to get enough slack to tilt the faceplate down enough to remove a bunch of screws to get to the hidden/“inside” of the circuit board where the part is soldered in. And then doing the reverse to get everything buttoned back up and all those bundles of wires back in places and zip tied down again. Lastly, I have no idea how long it will take to get the part. The post office has been running very slow the last few months. It seems all my mail gets stuck in the Atlanta area for days and days. Running the leads now and putting it back together should allow me to keep using the unit without memory until the part arrives. It would be simple to pull out the leads and solder the cap to the end and tuck it back under the wire bundle. I just wanted to know if it was okay to do this “electrically”. 👍🏼
It is. Just make sure whatever you do is safe and secure with no possibility of the cap moving and shorting something.
