Has anyone had any experiences with VRDS-9?Dac is on 4xpcm1702. On the screen You can see analog for one chanel, starting from output 2xpcm1702.
So far I have changed SM5840AP to SM5842AP (pin-pin, of course the fader and other functions from the processor do not work because they are not connected). I installed an external clock. I changed the capacitors in the power supply, recap - I think it makes no sense. They were good but when I bought them I put them in. Changed chemicon ASF to panasonic FR and FC. I also changed the capacitors in the DAC, (a lot of them around the PCM1702) 4.7uf electrolytes with red WIM MKS2.
It plays better than before, but I can probably still do a lot with an analogue. I would like to change capacitors in signal path 100pf and 1nf on mica and styroflex and resistors for coposite allen bradley or dale.
I have dip8 adapters to get rid of the opamps, which are probably average. They use U/I m5238l and later 2114, probably a filter.
There's a servo board on the bottom of the drive - lots of surface-mount polymer electrolytes. I wonder if they need to be recapped after some time. Polymers from 20 years ago are often average. I have poor experience, their lifespan was different in the past.
I also have a strange problem with the laser. I replaced the original KSS213C from Rotel, where it played without any problems, but in Teac it sometimes skips, freezes and overheats the CD discs. Additionally, sometimes there is a problem with pulling out the drawer. The drive sprocket has been checked and is perfect.
Can anyone help?
So far I have changed SM5840AP to SM5842AP (pin-pin, of course the fader and other functions from the processor do not work because they are not connected). I installed an external clock. I changed the capacitors in the power supply, recap - I think it makes no sense. They were good but when I bought them I put them in. Changed chemicon ASF to panasonic FR and FC. I also changed the capacitors in the DAC, (a lot of them around the PCM1702) 4.7uf electrolytes with red WIM MKS2.
It plays better than before, but I can probably still do a lot with an analogue. I would like to change capacitors in signal path 100pf and 1nf on mica and styroflex and resistors for coposite allen bradley or dale.
I have dip8 adapters to get rid of the opamps, which are probably average. They use U/I m5238l and later 2114, probably a filter.
There's a servo board on the bottom of the drive - lots of surface-mount polymer electrolytes. I wonder if they need to be recapped after some time. Polymers from 20 years ago are often average. I have poor experience, their lifespan was different in the past.
I also have a strange problem with the laser. I replaced the original KSS213C from Rotel, where it played without any problems, but in Teac it sometimes skips, freezes and overheats the CD discs. Additionally, sometimes there is a problem with pulling out the drawer. The drive sprocket has been checked and is perfect.
Can anyone help?
Attachments
So what to do with the fact that despite the new laser, the discs skip, some are not readable, and the laser heats the disc very much? I did not touch the laser settings, the potentiometer is covered with factory glue. I have already checked 4 lasers. Two used and two new high quality. The trail leads to the servo.
Yes. All voltages are OK. I have the service manual. If I didn't have it, I wouldn't have calibrated the laser at the oscilloscope pump. After replacing the laser, it's better. You can see that the quality of the laser plays a key role here. Does anyone know if I can still buy an original Sony KSS213 laser somewhere?