PeeCeeBee V4H GB

Update (December 17 2022): The very last batch V4H Rev2 boards is going out! More details >Here.<

Update (August 2 2020):


PeeCeeBee V4H has been upgraded to Revision 2. This revision adds MOSFET short circuit protection, VAS buffer SOA protection and a couple minor changes. Full details >Here<. Updated schematic and layout snapshots have been shared below. Updated BOM and Setup Guide links have also been shared at the end of this post. Drill template remains unchanged.

Update (October 6 2021):

V4H Revision 2 PCBs available. Shipping resumed to most countries worldwide.

____________________________________


(Original text from here)

Hello everyone.

The PeeCeeBee V4H is finally here. As promised, PCBs will be available through group buys arranged in this thread.

Since the introduction of PeeCeeBee V4 early last year I have been receiving emails/PMs on a continuous basis with requests for a higher power version of the same amplifier. While most of the default components allowed for the use of a higher voltage PSU and more power would be readily available by paralleling the MOSFETs, it appeared to me that the amplifier's sonics can still be improved without using additional active devices in the signal chain or biasing the MOSFETs to 1A or 2A and turning the setup into a miniature furnace that would dramatically increase its requirements in every accompanying segment from Transformer rating to heatsink size. This is to say that much of V4's unused potential has been attempted to put to use. As a result, we now have PeeCeeBee V4H, the high power PeeCeeBee that won't need to be a furnace to deliver pleasant music. (However, the option for manual bias trimming remains available, very handy in the chilly winter nights IMO!)



A bit of detail: (it doesn't go too deep. 🙂)

The original PeeCeeBee V4 upto Rev1, uses emitter follower VAS and simple miller compensation at VAS stage that gives us a stable Class-AB "current feedback" amplifier with more than enough speed and much lower THD than any of its previous versions. Many members bought the PCBs, assembled them, listened to the amplifier and sent me more encouraging emails than I could imagine. While most of the comments I received on V4's sonics were positive, a few members who bought the PCBs in the group buys reported excellent sonics but only at 500mA or higher MOSFET bias.

V4's distortion at low frequency is very low and its LF performance with music input directly reflects that, with THD level being very low up-to around 2KHz with 100mA MOSFET bias. At gradually higher frequencies THD tended to gradually rise, as it normally would. However, while 500Hz to 5KHz THD measured low, level of higher-order harmonic content at 100mA bias wasn't as low as measured with 500mA/1A bias, resulting in a "thin" sound at low bias. It is a well known fact that higher order harmonics can be annoying at a lower magnitude than lower order harmonics. The output stage crossover distortion with its spiky and subtle nature was naturally the primary suspect and I was absolutely against building an amplifier with 1000V/uS slew rate (so to speak). Experiments followed.

Meanwhile, I stumbled upon online and printed resources that illustrate "tricks" which, when properly applied, make use of the available negative feedback in a standard closed loop amplifier much more efficiently and effectively. After switching between a few of those "tricks" and measuring/listening to the setup for a few weeks I decided on one arrangement that is simple, has a visible improvement in the THD plot, most stable, sounded best, and noticeably better at HF than the vanilla V4 Rev1, at the same 100mA per MOSFET bias. It is a very simple modification of the miller compensation network that corrects HF distortion at output node and further attenuates higher order harmonics by forming a semi-local feedback network between the output and the VAS stage. The original simple miller compensation used just two capacitors. For this mod we need four additional passive components - two resistors and two more capacitors - R31, R32, C7, C8 as seen in the layout and schematic below. The idea is courtesy of the late Peter Baxandall, kindly made available for everyone by Douglas Self in his website. It is a very flexible technique and after much experimentation a combination of the involved components struck my setup, that had the best effect on sonics of this amplifier, and I went along.

The technique is called "Output Inclusive Compensation", some call it "Transitional Miller Compensation". Whatever we call it, the mod is very simple and cheap, but its effect on sound is grand. The most elegant nature of this technique is that it helps the amplifier exactly where it is needed most. It has little effect on total distortion amount for frequencies below 5KHz but works on the crossover spikes and reduces higher order harmonic considerably, leaving THD to be consisting of almost entirely of second and third harmonic which are way less disturbing than say 5th and 7th and are already very low. At HF it works equally effectively reducing higher order harmonics even better and also having more effect on lowering second and third harmonics - for example check the increase in second+third harmonic levels in the 1KHz 10W and 1KHz 100W spectrum shots below. Compare that to the same in the 10KHz 10W and 10KHz 100W spectrum shots.




All in all, PeeCeeBee has yet again been improved in a key segment of its performance, harmonic distribution. The V4H is just as stable as the V4 and it provides not only more power headroom but has much less crossover distortion and sonics that are perceptibly more balanced throughout the octaves. The modification in compensation has also been incorporated in the lower power V4 Rev2 amplifier and it shows the same improvements in both measurement and sonics.

As shown, each of the feedback resistors have been divided into two 4K7 resistors to result into about the same total resistance in parallel but double the total dissipation limit. This will prevent these resistors from overheating during high power output. The 0.1R resistors allow for using unmatched MOSFETs. If your MOSFETs are matched, replace these resistors with wire links (use thick wire).


The PeeCeeBee V4H Revision 2 layout looks like this:

ACtC-3ckdMlkNreevssvJe0_S58xfI0JLWTiWQfVKw-sx5FlrqS4gJysKQWTicq66q9fXYqS1un7ourkzRq0QRD1bDuLAKtqsPhnAApqAiIcFQyCD3OfbIBjJD95NVJHWJQ8yTBXnuluwwPgJ-goypCUIUua=w1470


ACtC-3e3lBAHZ_JTxOhe8FPRGmaPIY9p2yYHRxRB0ywUhCAwlT5i5hFukvfmoi2uAd6OVUxrhs11kMM4VCdB45VGquLsKpGsLIEbvQ_C2vK7rKN6uG7JXSF02fynbjtdEOOEoEcnrya13YvGfU_MoomwgRdf=w1470

Revision 2 Schematic: (>full size<)

ACtC-3d_N1sWELh_9dfAdra63j2Ls65bPcbTKP40x-QPhQJEjmVvIBTin2KmY5B3WDbTs0FCclBLiDXd4nP1Yw3looSFfBBWrRa9UotUUpgnNRBCBa-MBE_yv7cFoB3wjOE4P_7r7L5nSt6TxET84mhypbgB=w1200

THD Plots: (1KHz - 0.001% source THD, 10KHz - 0.002% source THD, 100mA per MOSFET, 10mA VAS bias, no matching for any transistor pair except Q1 and Q2.)

1KHz 1W into 5R

SwWd_6j_Lc3y8lKa_srPjTQQRj2NYlEGkbhxrES0K_oJ4ybZOTh9OFbgVmWJvULqE0gft8-4ttgyJAoLJqA=w800

1KHz 10W into 5R

OiyfeIqLTeYFqPoaoej6fl7K19rHliOVFSTxGaaH4D4oaTcu4enQwlpps-uhGa9h9ZEosIbnkmxynnArRCo=w800

1KHz 100W into 5R

3HCd-Wh3-yrW0HHmGTtfx4k7k6F2mUQdQMeBk4r1FA2OuAWJ8LWAQtVHzgAuIAwWV5L7CnfpF0OhrGEAOTQ=w800

10KHz 1W into 5R

K4_NmaflDwYoyVBXxOb2UUK3uZicAnfL_cw3jTJvd-WyR9aTWV5KX3_uw3ykPyUEKfv1T-096HhgtfJp-Vo=w800

10KHz 10W into 5R

TihYDsG7fiqH0IhmJVFUFsserAXczY624GlHRwQ9UkUbFe46m21ZYhr2W04b9KiKA0nWxneTl-_aQt6PUZU=w800

10KHz 100W into 5R

GOpeWQVWGMM_kPZYa1CzqICN7ZymkPUUoBqo67GRHfJpt0YdR8TTs1ZrBokVTVE1RY2p5221zAGV-o8Bb5w=w800


Specs:
Power - 150W/250W into 8R/4R load with +/-56V PSU (0.1% THD)
Frequency response(simulated) - ~2Hz to ~800KHz (-3dB)
Slew Rate - 100V/uS
Offset variation - +/-10mV
SNR - >110dB
AC gain - 24.5 (28dB)
DC gain - Unity
Input level for 250W into 4R - 1.5VRMS (~4V P-P)
THD:
100Hz 10W - 0.0005%, 100Hz 100W - 0.001%
1KHz 10W - 0.002%, 1KHz 100W - 0.003%
10KHz 10W - 0.002%, 10KHz 100W - 0.005%

Revision 2 BOM >Here<

Revision 2 Setup Guide >Here<

Drill Template >Here<

---------------------------------------------

Group Buy Information:

The layout is 150mm x 61mm Dual Layer.
Batch of 50, 75 or 100 PCBs will be printed depending on interest. The boards will be 2.4mm thick with FR4 material, 60micron copper, HASL finish, white silkscreen and black solder mask.

PCB price is US$20 for one unit.
Two forms of shipping are available.
1. International Air Parcel (recommended, 15-20 days delivery time, but a bit expensive. Covers most countries).
2. Registered Post (cheaper, 30-40 days delivery time. Available for all countries)
After GB list is full, first invoice for PCB price will be sent to each GB member's email address. After payment GB order will be confirmed for the member and PCB batch will be ordered to fab shortly afterwards. After I receive the PCB batch, second invoice for preferred mode of shipment (International Air Parcel or Registered Post) will be sent to each member.
International payments are accepted through PayPal only and payments from within India are accepted through bank account transfer/deposit, NEFT, IMPS etc.
Delay between placing the batch order to PCB plant and delivery of the boards to me will be 18-20 days.

---------------------------------------------

Thanks.
shaan

3-way - port tube placement and braces

Hi all
I'm trying to design a 3-way speaker based on mid-range and tweeter I already have (used in a 2 way speaker some years ago).
I decided to add SB26SFCL38-8 to these 2 drivers in bass reflex configuration. The volume for the woofer will be around 88L with a resonant frequency is 27Hz.
I want create a cabinet with hard plywood 19mm with external size WxDxH 38x55x63 (the height is a constraint).
The cabinet will have a "small room" for the mid and tweeter of about 8L.
The port tube will have diameter of 9,2 cm and length of 22,5 cm
I have 2 main doubts now (may be more 🙂)
1. Where put the port tube. I have not enough space below the woofer do I would like to place it upper. Something like this...

1745836195042.png
1745836229261.png


I also did a try with 2 port of 6,6 cm and 24,5 cm length below the woofer.

1745836314893.png


What do you think is the best solution?

2. How many braces, where to place them and how shape them. I'm not so expert about this aspect.

A New EC-Composite LM3886 Amp

This Error-Correction/Composite Combo amp is based on Mr Evil "Unnamed feedback method explored" and Nickolay Shvydky "My ZD-50 ultralow distortion chipamp"

Output power at +/-29.5V: 8 ohms clip at 42W, 4 ohm clip at 65W. It is very stable in both EC and Comp mode. Ans it behaves very well after clipping.

I could only measure its THD+N very roughly using Focusrite Solo 3rd, which has a minimal line-out and line-in THD+N of 0.002%.

U1 is OPA1655 and U2 is OPA828. For error-correction(EC) mode, RV1 was set at 330ohm. For composite (Comp) mode, RV1 was set at 680 ohms.


Final Remarks

Today marks the completion of my 6xLM3886 PBTL (Parallel Bridge-Tied Load) amplifier, now fully assembled and installed in its case. Hearing music flow from the amp for the first time was an incredibly rewarding moment.

This has been the most time- and resource-intensive DIY amplifier project I've undertaken. It all began with a spark of curiosity after discovering HAYK’s thread, which then led me to explore designs by Nickolay Shvydky (ZD-50), Mr. Evil’s EC-correction, and Tom’s Modulus series.

I initially started with the ZD-50, but its complex compensation network proved daunting. I decided to pursue a simplified approach. After many hours with LTSpice, I developed a streamlined version of the design, which is shared below.


The first prototype used through-hole components and served as both a learning and testing platform. Getting the amplifier stable took significant effort, with a variety of issues encountered and resolved along the way.


Next came the 2xLM3886 parallel version, which helped me better understand the parallel operation of the LM3886. It also served as a base for further schematic refinement and testing.


Throughout development, I upgraded my test equipment for greater precision, allowing for more accurate measurements and analysis.


The final goal was this 6xLM3886 PBTL amplifier. With the knowledge gained from the earlier versions, I was able to optimize the circuit design, select key component values carefully, and fine-tune the PCB layout. The result is a high-performance amplifier with impressive specifications:


  • Power Supply: Hammond 1182T24 625VA transformer (24VAC/13A dual secondary), DIYAudio Store Universal Power Supply board, and 140,000µF of filter capacitance
  • Output Power:
    • 175 W into 8 ohms @ THD+N 0.00023%
    • 240 W into 4 ohms @ THD+N 0.00042%
  • Residual hum/noise floor: ~10 µV

(Note: These measurements were taken using amateur-grade equipment under informal conditions. They are provided for reference only and should not be interpreted as certified or industry-standard specifications.)


I’ll now spend some time listening to the amplifier and enjoying the results. Meanwhile, I plan to revisit the earlier versions and design optimized PCBs for them as well.

(I made 5 sets PCB, minimal number of ordered sets, of the amp, there are 1 sets left for sale, see swap meat)

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New member from Berlin, Germany, interested in building a TL-Speaker

I am living in Berlin since 35 years and I am engaged in building speakers privately and professionally since I was 12 years old. Now I want to return to my roots building DIY Transmissionline Speakers. Back in the 70ies I started to build speakers with SEAS drivers, PEERLESS drivers and GOODMANS drivers. But my heart finally fell on KEF drivers and that´s where I want to restart. Let´s see what ideas I get after being involved deeper into the exchange on this forum. Regards, Mark.

Hi from a DIY noob

I was dissatisfied with modern hifi that just was not hitting the spot for me. Was not enjoying lisetening to music. Started buying a few bits of vintage and the magic was there again and these things are so lovely. Cant stop listening to music now.

Nothing particularly high end. A few low power Sansui, 555, 101, 555a 2200, 217II and 317. Got a Sugden A48 MkII and a Naim Nait 1. Got a few different speakers. Spendor BC1, Ditton 44, Linn Kan Mk1, Lin Sara and Meridian M20. Also ended up with a Sondek LP12 that needs some TLC.

I am not experienced with electronics but really interested now and learning by doing. One of my Meridian M20s is not working. I am trying to fix it. I am getting pretty close to working out the issue though. Identified the op amp that is failing. Not worked out why yet. When trying to google for a service manual for these there were a couple of posts on this site asking for the same and that is what brought me here. Looking forward to going on the journey learning about fixing, maintaining and even improving all of this lovely old gear.
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For Sale ATC SB76-314SC

For sale a pair of ATC SB75-314S in very good condition and with fresh new surrounds.
They can be used as well to replace the SB75-314SL because they behave and measure equal to those. Just Some better an more linear roll off in the SL. The SL has not a resonance peak more than 12dB below crossover point at 500/600Hz.


Price for the pair will be 450€ + PP fees + Shipping at cost.


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Schematic request: Alesis BRC (Big Remote Control)

I looked around and can't find a good place to file this thread, so if I missed something, Mods, please feel free to relocate.

I am about to purchase an Alesis BRC which will (hopefully) control my HD24 [24-track hard disc recorder]. It was originally designed to control many ADAT machines, daisy chained together. ADAT uses SVHS tape for audio recording. Anyway the HD24 is 24 tracks od digital recording onto hot-swappable hard drives. But since access is orders of magnitude faster on the HD than spooling tape, there can be sync issues... (it CAN allegedly daisy chain HD24s to provide 48+ tracks, up to 128 max or something silly like that)

I have the Alesis service manual, and it indicates an appendix for the schematics, but they are not there. It must have been a separate file or insert added at the repair facility. I do have the "confidential" service tech final testing procedures at the end of the copy of the manual I have so it seems to be "complete".

Please have a look around and see if you have one or can point me to an online source. I can't find it anywhere and I was digging pretty deep...

Thanks in advance for any help!

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Pair of unused bass/mid drivers Audax HM170Z2

Stock clean up: a pair of unused Audax Aerogel dual voice coil 17 cm bass/mid drivers (type HM170Z2)
Bought for a project which was never started (due to other priorities).
The units are packed in the original box and are not broken in.
Price: 170 euro plus shipping (preferably within EU)

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diyAB Amp - The "Honey Badger"

I have asked member ostripper to lay out a Class AB amp officially called the "diyAB amp" ( nicknamed "the Honey Badger" ) using many of the best characteristics of amps of this type that have appeared on our forums, so that we can feature it in the diyAudio Store. He has agreed to give it a go, is really interested in comments to help it be a paradigm of its type, and will be posting here very soon to describe where the design is at this point.

So pile on!

Mark
"Variac"

Build thread for diyAB Amp: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/211905-diyab-amp-build-thread.html

OPA1656 Phono Preamp: Split from OPA1656 thread

I have an OPA1656 story that may be interesting especially to whomever wants to build the RIAA preamp example in the apps section of the data sheet. I did build that and the slightly modified schemo is attached. I used the attached blank proto board. The Layout is attached. Of the three independent rails on each edge the outside L and R were used for -15V and +15V, resp. The inner two were 0V, center Gnd, branched at power entry at the top. The rails are heavily post-filtered and bypassed and the P/S is external. The DIP8 socket has 0.1uF X7Rs pin 8→gnd, pin 4→gnd and pin4↔pin 8. The enclosure is cast Al/Zn, at 0V and everything “grounded” only via the cable shields to the main preamp. I used polystyrene caps b/c they can be had surplus in 1% values. 000.0mV appears across the 47KΩ non-inverting input load resistors and at rest the finished unit is dead quite.

Now, my turntable is a full-auto linear tracker with internal mute switch used to short the ± moving magnet cartridge coil leads together while lowering onto and lifting off of the record surface. On the maiden voyage of my new external RIAA preamp I turned the system volume down; pressed Play on the TT and once the needle was down, slowly raised the volume to take a listen. Sounded GREAT. Turned-up the volume to let it “burn-in” while I did something else.

Once the side had finished I heard a tremendously loud POP-THUMP (tonearm lifting) and seconds later another very disturbing THUMP-POP (tonearm returned to rest). The mere action of the mute switch shorting and un-shorting the cartridge leads was causing a huge transient at the RIAA output. The 1656 just went berserk! “Somethings wrong and I have to use all my horsepower to fix it right now!”.

Of the op amps in my collection the massive misbehavers are the OPA1656, the LME49990 and the OPA1612. The completely docile op amps are the OPA2604, the OPA627, the OPA2107, the LM4562/LME49720 and the OPA2134. Those are fine.

Long-winded question for anybody is what’s the diff between these two groups of op amps that allows for such infinitely different behaviors in this very, very common circuit? In my case, my TT happens to have a mute function = I’m denied use of the 1656.

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Too much noise and distortion out of ADC fed with guitar signal

I'm currently trying to build a digital guitar pedal, and right now I just want to be able to hear the signal being amplified correctly. I'm going for 44.1kHz at 256Fs.

Gear being used:

  • STM32H743VIT6 as MCU (on a dev board)
  • PCM1808 as ADC (on a module)
  • PCM5102A as DAC (on a module)
  • OPA2376 and MCP6022 input & output 5V rail-to-rail op amps
  • the DAC output is being fed to my USB audio interface

qpGVpVQ.png


cb66sEl.png



5V comes out of the USB connection from the STM32 with my laptop, from a 5V pin in the dev board. The STM32 is outputting a clock of 256Fs = 11.2896MHz as SCLK for the ADC & DAC. The ADC is set as I2S master, and it outputs the I2S audio clock (BCLK) for the DAC.

1744596342273.png


1744596382443.png


1744596443976.png


1744596459219.png


The problem is that the ADC output is too noisy and distorted. Sounds like heavy static with a little bit of guitar coming through, distorted. I thought it was the DAC, but the logic analyzer readings confirm it (output from a E note on the 12th string, with 6x gain):

1744596601977.png


1744596609627.png


The gain stage output seems to be fine (don't mind the readings, it's DC coupled but I switched to AC coupled on the scope):

1744596626884.png


I'm thinking it's because of my setup, as I'm prototyping everything in solderless breadboards, and the long wires and all the intertwining is transforming it into a big antenna (maybe?):

1744596749134.png


So far I've tried:

  • inserting an 1k resistor inbetween the DAC_OUTPUT and the output buffer.
  • decreasing the input gain and using unity gain

Do you guys have any idea why this is happening? Will it go away if I etch a board or use a perforated board?

NSM4202A LED Display Module Replacement for Philips / Sony CDM Transports

I have an old Krell MD-2 CD turntable, and (among other issues) several segments have gone out on the LED display. After looking around online, I found one person in France that had built a replacement, but details were kind of scarce, so tried to reverse engineer my display module based upon the tidbits of information that I was able to uncover.

After hooking it up to a scope, it appeared to use SPI (keep in mind that I'm not very smart), but I just got rubbish when I created a small Arduino program to read the data, so I traipsed through the available LED drivers on DigiKey, and came across the MM5450 as one of the very few chips that didn't require I2C. Upon reviewing the data stream again, it appeared to fit with what was required to drive this chip. Anyway, I did the best that I could to guess the pinout of my existing display board (it uses an unmarked glob to hold down the IC die), and was able to reconcile it with the MM5450 pinout, so I made up a board, bought some parts, and tried it out. It appears to be fully functional, so I thought that I would share it here so that others can create a replacement for themselves as necessary. I'm kind of hoping that since this hardware is over 25 years old (and apparently out of production for quite some time) that Philips won't mind too much the publishing of plans for a replacement...

Anyway, here goes with the information:

Feel free to use this information however you wish, so long as you don't make anyone pay for it. I don't care if you charge someone to assemble a board for them or something (it's none of my business), but the information should be kept in the open. I abhor GPL-like licensing, but I do expect you to not be a turd.

I am just a hobbyist (and a really unintelligent one at that), so I do not make any representation that information is accurate, safe, or suitable for any purpose, even a purpose that may be implied by the information. In other words, I did the best that I could, it worked for me, but it's not on me if you hurt yourself or start a fire or something.

I have the board shared at OSH Park (https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/P3nC9ISV) for convenience. I make nothing from this link or design (AFIAK), and I don't care from where you order your board.

BOM:

  • U1 - Micrel MM5450 (PLCC-44) LED Display Driver
  • DS1-DS4 - Kingbright ACSA03-41SGWA-F01 7-Segment Common-Anode LED Display (Green, other colors probably available)
  • D1-D2 - 0603 SMD LED (Green for use with the specified green LED digits)
  • R1 - 7.5kOhm (or higher) 1206 SMD Resistor (controls brightness)
  • C1 - 1000pF 1206 SMD Capacitor
  • J1-J3 - 0.1" header system of your choice

Electrical Schematic:
View attachment NSM4202A Schematic.pdf

Front of PCB:
NSM4202A Front.png

Back of PCB:
NSM4202A Back.png

Gerbers for PCB:
View attachment NSM4202A.zip

DipTrace Schematic and Board Files:
View attachment NSM4202A DipTrace Files.zip

Why would an amp designer intentionally use different OPT impedances for Left vs. Right?

(I posted this on the AK forum, and so far nobody can give me a good answer, so a gold star to the one who can . . .)

So I'm thinking for my next tube amp build I would really like to do a little integrated 6AQ5 push-pull, so I was researching some of the greats, and apparently the Voice of Music 1404 integrated amplifier (581 console) really stands out as a super performer based upon many comments I have read.

I have a one page schematic, as well as a pdf copy of the SAMs posted below for the model 581 console, which used essentially the same chassis. It very clearly shows that the left and right output transformers are different- one has a primary impedance of 5700 ohms, the other is 7000 ohms. This is confirmed in the schematic, which indicates a different DCR for each primary (325 vs 340 ohms per side). These are not two "alternates" or an accident, this is a deliberate design choice to use a different load line (but same operating point) for left versus right.

Does anyone know why this would be done? I have never seen that before.


1746237489386.png


BTW I think the super cheap 6AQ5 (essentially a 6V6 in a 7-pin peanut) will be very fun to play with- guitar amps are using them like crazy but still seem to be quite overlooked in new audio builds.

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Requesting help analyzing Phaser schematic

Below is a schematic of a German phaser instrument effects unit from the late 60s/early 70s called “Rotor Sound” and manufactured by Schaller. “Rotor Sound” alludes to the sound produced by a Leslie speaker cabinet. A demonstration of the effect produced by the unit can be heard here.

Similar to the vibrato units Hammond made for its organs, the Rotor Sound uses a saturable reactor as part of the effects filter (as seen at the top of the schematic). The effects filter itself is comprised of a 18-rung ladder network of low-pass filters, the series elements of which are the DCR and the inductance of each reactor’s “power” winding and a capacitor to ground as the sole shunt element.

Driving the reactor’s control winding is a vactrol-based oscillator (lower middle of schematic).

IMG_1805.jpeg


The saturable reactors in the device are two-winding P14/8 pot core transformers:
IMG_3641.jpeg


Someone else measured these saturable reactors; the power winding (the “in circuit” winding) is 2.2mH with a DCR of 65 ohms. The schematic itself does not denote the inductance; all it states is that the total resistance of the power windings in series is 800 ohms (800/18 =~ 44 ohms each).

What I need help with is understanding how to look at the effects filter. My understanding so far is that when the current through the control winding is low, each rung of the ladder network is a second-order LCR filter. When the current through the control winding is high, the core of the reactors saturate and the inductance in the LCR drops significantly, changing the filters topology into that of a first-order RC filter. However, I feel like this is the wrong way of looking at it as daisy-chaining 18 low pass filters is not going to produce an easily calculated response at a given frequency. Still, I feel like this shifting of topology twice per cycle of the LFO is key to understanding the function of the effect.

I’m asking for insight because I have managed to salvage a couple saturable reactors from some Hammond vibrato units and would like to repurpose them for something closer to the phaser schematic above.

Thank you in advance.

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Apos gremlin headphone amp as preamplifier

I am considering how to improve my system for a modest cost. At present, I have no preamplifier. (I am using and amplifier with a volume control). A possible cost-effective solution might be the gremlin headphone amplifier. The problem I am attempting to overcome is the fact that the gremlin uses strictly balanced input and output. All my components use unbalanced cables.
I at present I'm unable to discern exactly what is needed to convert an unbalanced input into the gremlin and output an unbalanced output from the gremlin to the amplifier.
Would the following cable work for input:
https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stere...l+rca+to+male+xlr+cable&qid=1746337003&sr=8-3

Would the following cable work for output to the amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/gotor-pin-Ma...+to+male+xlr+cable+4+connector,aps,184&sr=8-3

Thanks in advance for any comments.

Modelling a CHN-110 BVR in Hornresp

I've been learning Hornresp recently and was interested in designing a BVR for a pair of MA CHN 110's. I'm reasonably new to speaker modelling so would welcome feedback. I think what I've done so far seems reasonable in theory but I'm sure there are some variables I haven't accounted for.

I'm undecided if I will build this as yet - I'm enjoying the driver (in a Pensil) and would be curious to hear other configurations. Especially something that may add a little more 'punch' in the mid-bass.

I've also attached a quick drawing from fusion, the dimensions are no longer correct as I've changed the model since, but wondered if this basic layout for construction might work?

Matt

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Passive Speaker Crossover PCBs GB - Any Interest?

Hi All,
I'd like to gauge interest in a Group Buy of PCBs for passive crossovers for speakers. I've made some for my own use and am happy with the outcome. I've attached some pics of one that I made. I can post more as I have 4 made so far. I am considering laying out generic type PCBs for 2-way and 3-way crossovers. The PCBs I got were from JLPCB which were incredibly inexpensive. With the current tariff climate, the shipping has gone up considerably because Hong Kong is no long shipping packages but even so, prices for the PCBs would be pretty cheap. Feel free to post so I can get an idea of level of interest and I'll take it from there.

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Apollo Light Drive

Light fantastic​


“The P1 power amplifier requires a super clean high current power supply to turn the low voltage line level music signal into hundreds of watts of output power. To do this, Siltech designed the Apollo Light Drive. A super-strong AC-powered light source is used to drive a photo-electric cell, giving a totally noise-free, galvanically isolated DC output. This then drives the amplifier’s output stage, keeping it absolutely immune from mains-born distortion. The idea behind this is not new, but its execution in a high powered amplifier is extremely challenging. The result is ultra-clean, low distortion power – and lots of it.”

Has anyone tried DIYing this concept?

IMG_0844.jpeg


https://www.siltechcables.com/saga-amplifier-system/

ZEN Amplifier Mini with IRF610 as Headphone Amplifier for 32 Ohm

The ZEN Amplifier concept is simple. But it works great.
Here is such an amplifier but with less current and uses IRF610 as MOSFET.
It makes a simple and sweet headphone amp.

Building shouldn't be difficult.
The heatsinking it takes is not so much.
There is some THD, but it is mainly 2nd harmonic.
So, it would be good listening.

The amp is designed for 32 Ohms headphones.
For other impedances it may need tweaking to make it alright.

ZEN Mini Headphone Amp_19.jpg
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Scanspeak D7608-9200 mid dome disassembly tips and other info

* Disclaimer - Perform the following procedure at your own risk. Not responsible for damage to your own driver !!! *

I finally decided to take a chance at removing the mounting flange on one of my D7608-9200 dome mids. I'm documenting this so others can attempt the same. Again, please use caution doing this by yourself. This procedure is reversible if you're careful.

To start with, the flange is held onto the driver assembly with very tenacious contact adhesive. Do the following to pull the driver element away.

I started by grabbing the flange with the dome facing away from me, using two thumbs to push / bend the flang away from the magnet, little by little, opening the gap up. Once you start weakening the adhesive bond at the gap, working your way around the flange, you'll notice it starting to gradually separate, until the motor assembly can be completely pulled away by hand, holding onto it by the outer flange and motor / magnet assy edge. I dont recommend prying between the flange and inner edge, as this clamps the entire dome and motor together - you can damage the inner thin plastic ring which holds down and terminates the dome surround to the motor. Also watch the 3 clips on the side of the dome assy, which can break fairly easily when prying away the flange, especially at first as you start bending away the flange for the first time.

This whole process only took a few minutes to accomplish, but removing the left over adhesive was the hardest part, not having identified a suitable solvent to simply loosen and remove the glue. I ended up using some naphta (lighter fluid or BBQ charcoal starting fuel) to scrape away the bulk of the factory contact adhesive. This took about 30 minutes to do. DO NOT USE aromatic HC based solvents, as it will attack the plastic, which appears to be made from ABS.

If you're careful not to damage the flange upon removal, it can be reattached later on with some 3M weather strip adhesive or other contact cement.

Sorry for the lousy pictures.

- more D7608 info here to follow soon !

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Introduction

I am a maker and a tinker. At the school where I work, I also maintain a makerspace. Since I was 12 years old, I have been creating all kinds of electronics, from mixing consoles and amplifiers to microcontroller-controlled devices. Recently, I have been working with Arduinos, micro:bits, and Raspberry Pis. I teach kids how to program Lego robots. Additionally, I educate young people on 3D design and printing. At school, I also teach CNC programming and manufacturing, as well as 3D design and CAM. At home, I have my own lab where I always need some new gadgets. 😊
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JL 600/1v3 Repair of PS+OP = random DC offset?

So I just repaired this JL 600/1v3, PS blew, took out FET, gates, and half the OP.

I replaced PS FETs with 3205@10Ω gates, and replaced the OP FETs with IRF540. PS gate wave seems to build slow, but could be a feature of JL boot process, but I’m getting crazy feedback on startup and shutdown, DC offset on each process gets into the single digit volts, I’ve tried cleaning the Pots/switches as well. There is 2 Pots near OutPut area, but I don’t know what they are for and I’ve never had to mess with them before, I’ve never had a problem with DC offset on JL amps before. Is that what this is or something deeper?

Video link below.

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3way Center channel measuring

Im building a center channel and have some measurments questions. The drivers im using are:
Tweeter: HiVi RT1.3WE
Mid: 5" SB 13PFCR25-8
Woofers: (2x) 8" Silverflute W20RC38-04

Target crossover points are:
300mhz/3000mhz. (80Htz crossover to sub)

Tools im using:
Dats V3
UMM6 usb mike
REW
Xsim

Question:
When making the FRD and ZMA files for the two woofers do i measure them indiviualy or wired in parallel like they will be used?
If measured together are they still represented in xSim with one driver?

-Travis

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Luxman L-3 project - High voltage at speaker terminals

Hello, I'm currently trying to repair a Luxman L-3 that I bought at a thrift store to make it mine and enjoy! For now I've read all the previous posts made on this forum and though I found the issue when I changed a resistor that was problematic for someone else (mine also was bad). Replaced the resistor with one that was good (Amazon) and tried to turn it back on... ohoh the dim light tester stays on.

That was my initial try at repairing it, since then, I tried to find the short, but I can't seem to find anything promising. I used a thermal camera to identify hot spots on the power board and found to spots, one around the D403 and D404 diodes and the Q408a area. Since then I pulled all the components to test them outside the circuit, but they all seem to be good from my understanding.

I'm kinda lost and don't know what I could check before starting to resolder all the components back on the board, do you guys have any wisdom to share that could help me with my project! Thanks. There seems to be a good amount of info on this site about the amplifier so if you want something specific let me know and I'll share it with you (schematic, components list, voltage drop of the components I pulled, etc.).

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AULA02014 8" + Celestion CDX1 CD with Harsch XO sorta

I bought these drivers back in end August I think it was, and I've finally got a box for 'em. I've measured up the in box response and played around with the results in XSIM. I still have to order XO parts, and do a final sand and finish on the boxes. But I thought I'd share where I'm at.

I kicked out a thread to discuss the drivers when I ordered them, it's https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/tymphany-aula02014-0006-pe-buyout.416365/

Woofer (buyout, NLA) is this 8" tymphany pro audio with a big honker magnet
https://www.parts-express.com/Tymph...-Paper-Cone-Woofer-8-Ohms-299-2265?quantity=1
I got 'em for $17 each!

Compression driver is Celestion CDX1-1446
https://www.parts-express.com/Celes...-Compression-Driver-8-Ohm-299-2257?quantity=1
This one is also a buyout but I think the same driver is available regular production.
I've got it on this JBL Selenium HM17-25 https://www.parts-express.com/Selen...al-Horn-60x40-1-3-8-18-TPI-264-308?quantity=1

I have modeled it up in 30 L and ported at 60 Hz. Software wanted to suggest smaller / higher, but I'm trying to get this thing to dig down far enough to cross to my sub. I have 3D printed a port according to geometry in this Harmon paper about optimizing ports. https://www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/harman-port-study-pdf.893225/

I was trying to conceptualize how I'd put this speaker together, and I thought of trying to time-align the drivers, so I measured the acoustic offsets. The horn+tweeter came out 70mm behind the driver (mounting features in the same plane), which was more than I was expecting. I had a little thread to consider options about that https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...nique-for-horn-out-front.419357/#post-7851615 eventually I remembered that @xrk971 has a crossover topology that wants the tweeter a fair bit delayed WRT the woofer, and that's the Harsch XO, he's got a thread about it here - https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/s-harsch-xo.277691/. I was considering a 2kHz XO, and the delay according to the Harsch thing was 85mm, so another sheet of plywood for the woofer to sit on was just about right.

So that's about how I dreamed this one up! Here's how it looks...
SpkrFront2.jpg
SpkrBack2.jpg


Ah... every thread is better with pictures. I've got roundover I think it's 1" on the vertical corners. Boxes made of arauco ply 3/4" from Home Depot, I'm still trying to decide how I'm gonna finish them. I like the lines from the ply on front.

Ground plane, on-axis (spkr tilted down to point at the mic) 2m distance acoustic measurements look like this
Measurements No XO.jpg


THD is good on the woofer, and FR is fine to 3k, but I think that is a low baffle step from 100 to 500? Speaker is 12.5" wide. Anyway that shift ended up being around the upper of the two impedance peaks in low woofer response, that made it kinda tricky to correct passively. FR on the tweeter seems pretty nice, but measurement looks like kinda high 2nd order HD.

I've been fiddling with the XO sim to get something I like.... here's where I'm at.

AULA-H2.2k-3.jpg


Initial idea was to have the cross at 2k, but in the course if trying to make it work I have floated up from there. So I think my offset is actually a little too much, and my phase peak is a bit larger than it might have been.

If you go for this sort of XO, it is (quoted from XRK's thread)...

1. Set the low pass filter for the woofer as a 4th order Butterworth at central frequency, fc for the XO centerpoint.
2. Set the high pass filter for the tweeter as a 2nd order Bessel at fc.
3. Set the delay of the tweeter equal to 1/2 of the period of one cycle at fc.
4. Use all positive phase on woofer and tweeter.


Here's what I've learned: 2nd order -acoustic- roll off is pretty slow! 2nd order electrical is normally fine, but when you are looking at the acoustic rolloff that happens naturally that doesn't leave much space to put in electrical protection. So I ended up at higher F than I was initially targeting. It looks like 2nd order electrical on the CD but it's pretty low Q, that inductor is only helping out at lower frequencies. Impedance compensation on the CD can help you get the shape theory wants.

I think I've attached the XSIM file in case anyone wants to play along.

I'm looking forward to hearing these, but I haven't pulled the trigger on XO parts yet. Every time I buy parts a couple days later I'm like "you know what I SHOULDA done...?" so I'm still meditating on it.

What do you think?

- Adam

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New Doug Self pre-amp design...

Just a heads-up...

This month's (UK) Elektor (April 2012, dropped on the mat this morning...) has a long article by Doug Self with, what he says is, his first published new pre-amp design since 1996. Side notes on Peter Baxandall, references to "Baxandall and Self on Audio Power" - all sorts of stuff. Pt. 1 is about design methodology and his pet subjects of sources of noise & distortion - does include the schematic though.

Kind of fun... (if you are a Self-devotee)

Specifications
Test conditions: supply voltage ±17.6 V; all measurements symmetrical; tone control defeat disabled.
Test equipment: Audio Precision Two Cascade Plus 2722 Dual Domain (@Elektor Labs)
THD+N (200 mV in, 1 V out) 0.0015% (1 kHz, B = 22 Hz – 22 kHz)
0.0028% (20 kHz, B = 22 Hz – 80 kHz)
THD+N (2 V in, 1 V out) 0.0003% (1 kHz, B = 22 Hz – 22 kHz)
0.0009% (20 kHz, B = 22 Hz – 80 kHz)
S/N (200 mV in) 96 dB (B = 22 Hz – 22 kHz)
98.7 dBA
Bandwidth 0.2 Hz – 300 kHz
Max. output voltage (200 mV in) 1.3 V
Balance +3.6 dB to –6.3 dB
Tone control ±8 dB (100 Hz)
±8.5 dB (10 kHz)
Crosstalk R to L –98 dB (1 kHz)
–74 dB (20 kHz)
L to R –102 dB (1 kHz)
–80 dB (20 kHz)

Iron Amp by Michael Rothacher Power supply suggestions?

Ironamp schematic.jpg

I would like to build this amp and I need the power supply ( about 100v 200ma on the v-fet but a bit higher because the Output transformer primary impedance ) to be particularly silent since it is connected to a compression driver with 113db of sensitivity. I was thinking of using a CLCLC power supply (to have few mV of ripple) and I was wondering if the use of a Saligny power (HVHF in this case) could be useful.
My problem is that at most I can use PSUD II and therefore I have no idea how to model a power supply with a Saligny bridge. Any suggestions?

Schematic or service manual Sonographe SC25

Trying to find out what size this resistor is in my unit. I am having trouble figuring the color code on this resistor it is in a Sonographe SC25. My unit was modded and I am going back to original, but this resistor and the cap next to it were removed and would like to replace but do not know size on both. Thanks for any and all help in advance.Screenshot 2025-05-02 at 21-33-56 Conrad Johnson Sonographe SC-25 &amp SA-250.pngScreenshot 2025-05-02 at 21-30-41 L'Audiotecnico Conrad Johnson - SC25.png

Direct Digital Power DAC (DDPD)

Hello,

as I promissed just to share with you concept from YU3MA forum, this is pulse densinity modulated H bridge power dac driven by dsd64, in short it's an full bridge class D direct digital power amplifier pulse densinity modulated, contain no opamps... etc just directly flow DSD bits to the full bridge, more comparable to an water flow boiler with diference boiler flow hot water but this one flow dsd bits. : ) Tested up to dsd256, it might work on dsd512 too? Concept contain variable power supply as a volume control, 1.25V to 5V range. You need Amanero usb combo and you need DSD tracks in order to play sound trought this dac. You will be surprised by the huge dynamics and holographic unchanged and detailed sound! The power of this dev concept is in the range of 3 to 5 watts and I do not recommend more, you simply need to first adjust the current with CC pot by shorting +5V at the one of the 8 capacitors for example C165 to gnd with an ameter until your ameter display value close to 1A, than you are ready for sound testing. Here is soome pictures and videos and more details about further concept . Its fully diferential! Optimised for 8 ohm speakers! Not measured but I have bought Cosmos ADC and when I finish some concepts and when I get ready for measurement I will do it, hope somebody do it allready. Gerber, bom and schematic is in atachment. Please pay atention to R72 resistor, change it for 2mA, ohm law yuor input dc voltage and calculate resistor value for 2mA! Enjoy!

dsc_0141-jpg.1093735


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For Sale Speaker Sale

Blaupunkt P652c 6 1/2 two way. Pair NIB $50.00

4" Coated Paper Mid/Woffer P/N 55-1200 8 ohm/40W. Used pair $40.00

3" Paper Tweeter Bukooo DO7776/2M24 8 ohm 40W Used pair $20.00

1" Mylar Dome Tweeter P/PN11028-584560 New $25.00

All OBO, Paypal plus shipping.

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Driver Recommendations - Bass/Midbass

I have been playing around with designs for a small, thin kitchen system for a while now. I have a few drivers and layouts in mind and I would like everyone's opinion. If there is a large objective difference between these I would love if you'd point them out.

Here is the frequency range I would like to use the midbass units in. The green line.

Shotting for an F3 of 38-48hz. We like bass in our house.
1746234845350.png


Here is a mockup of the design in its location. This location and temporary until we get a new house. Then it will live in the new kitchen. In the new kitchen it will be far more separated. We will not get into the design details of the rest of the system here. Just focus on midbass drivers. I'll make a thread for this build once I get a more concrete idea of what I'm doing.

The narrow baffle is key since they cannot take up a ton of counter space and I want a nice spread of sound. Probably going to be 5-7" dual woofer, 3-4" mid, 3/4" tweeter. Nice spread of sound.

1746234665850.png


Box size will be between 24-50 liters. Quite a spread I know but I could easily make it taller in a MTMWW layout or not as deep to go lower in volume.


I really want to try out dual woofers here. Originally I wanted to use these Dayton 7" drivers and I still might. I feel these are more woofer than midbass though. They are cheap. They have some decent reviews. I can get them for $45 on amazon even though they are out of stock at PE. I would dual these. These are modeled in the mockup above. Aluminum, easy to clean
1746234787142.png

Next up are these currently unobtanium Peerless 5.25" SLS. I have the 8" SLS and I love them. These are 4 ohm so we are looking at series alignment. They are low sensitivity so definitely 2 of them. They would work very well ported and I could get away with a smaller and narrower enclosure. $35 a pop when PE has them, which should be soon. Poly, easy to clean.
1746235018062.png


Another unobtanium. I always wanted a set of these. Should be available soon. Are these more of large mids than they are woofers? I like the fancy motor design, they have incredible reviews. I could use one or two of them. Two would be best with a passive radiator. This, of course, is more expensive than the last two options. $90 each and another $50 for a PR. Paper, hard to clean, maybe not best for the kitchen.
1746235229033.png


I feel these are interesting driver. I know little about Wavecor. They look cheap, they seem overpriced, they apparently measure just as well as scanspeak drivers, they model well, and the distortion graphs have very low distortion right where I want to use these. Cannot validate but read multiple times that the balanced drive is the same technology used in the revelator lineup. Same price as the NE180W. Not as cool looking but if it has better dynamics I am all over it. Would need two. Could also use the 6.5". Paper, but looks super smooth so maybe easy to clean?

1746235438556.png

Definitely need two of these in series. Not sure if these can match the lower dynamics of the other choices. They sim out well enough for the bass I want. Are these more of mid range units? Aluminum, easy to clean. Pretty pricey for a 5" at $80 a pop
1746235564458.png


Pushing the limits of the baffle allotted baffle dimensions we have this Satori unit. The 6" is unavailable. Price point dictates I only use one. Defeats my purpose of trying out multiple woofers. By far the most expensive at nearly $200. Especially for a system that will not get listened to for hours like our other systems. I hear it is only slightly better than the aforementioned Peerless with the similar motor design. Which is a rip off of which?
1746235902416.png


There are a handful of Dayton drivers like the reference series I have also looked at but none of them stand out in any way as far as measurements, price, or reviews. I see no one ever mentioning them as notably special drivers like this collection I have assembled here. If nothing else, I surely do my research.

Let me know if I should be looking at some other driver. Again, midbass dynamic and an F3 of at least 48hz is the goal here. 25-50 liters.

help needed old planar amp receiver

Need help hooking up the main speaker system's remote.
rggl front rggl
rggl back rggl
Caution: floating grounds do not use with common ground system /What does this mean for me, hooking up four speakers?

Next is the main in /pre out front
back main in /pre out

2ch a,b both/4ch a,b and both
How to get them all to play on at once a b and a+b

tape 1___tape2
front and back
play and record
been working on this for weeks, think I got it, then I don't like the way it works, also some speakers don't work on a , b or both some speakers on sometimes, and then on with all
still have to find out how to hook up equalizer and subwoofer if I can to this old Planar XR4120 FOUR/2-channel BRIDGED RECEIVER????
I DO NOT KNOW HOW TO TRANSFER FROM ANDROID CELL TO THIS CHROMEBOOK SO NO PHOTOS UNLESS I CAN SEND TO MAIL OR SOMETHING

New to me

Hi all, newbie here.
Interests are tube and vintage SS audio and music gear.
Enjoy HH Scott, Dynaco, Fisher etc on the home audio end.
On the guitar end, I like everything that is point to point or tag board wiring, PC boards not as much.
Really get a big kick out of converting vintage tube PA amps for guitar use.
I build guitar effects for giggles too…
Located in northern Illinois

MF nuVista M3 Refresh

Hi everyone,
I'm a fairly new (second) owner of an MF nuVista m3 amp and was thinking of doing a service on it: a) replacing the old Jamicon electrolytics and, if at all possible, removing any electrolytic caps from coupling duties; b) checking/setting/re-setting the quiescent current on the channels.

With regard to a) there is one 10uF/63V cap that I just can't find a good-sized film cap to replace it C1 and C101 on the attached diagram (Nuvista_M3_Pre-amp_Line_OP[1].pdf). The other coupling caps in the chain (C32, C40, C41 on the right channel) are already some type of film cap, yellow-coloured with a circled L logo--not sure how their quality is honestly--although I'm going to replace them with WIMA MKP10s anyways. Not all that pricey and I'll have it all apart anyways...thank goodness for suppliers like mouser and digikey etc.

Second item, b), does anyone know how "far" I should set quiescent current, i.e. bias into Class A operation? The SAP15's datasheets indicate 40mA, (so 8.8mV across pin 4,5 or 1,2 depending on N or P type), but some manufacturers seem to like "giving it a bit more." Anyone have any thoughts/experience with MF quiescent currents?

Thanks!
verkion
P.S. Attached the whole bunch of M3 Amp diagrams for people's reference. I'll be replacing PSU caps too as those are the ones that are looking "slightly fatigued." i.e. plastic cover is puckering although the metal under it feels fine...for now.

:cop: Copyrighted materials removed by moderation. :cop:

New Member – Exploring Summit-Fi and Ready to Learn

I'm excited to join the DIYAudio community! I've been on an intense journey into high-end audio over the past year—diving deep into summit-fi gear like the Mola Mola Tambaqui, Feliks Audio Envy, and RAAL Immanis. I listen primarily through vinyl on a Pro-Ject Debut Carbon EVO, and my digital chain includes components like the WiiM Ultra and RME ADI-2 Pro. My musical tastes range from Pink Floyd and Fleetwood Mac to HVOB, and I'm always chasing that next level of sonic realism.


I joined DIYAudio to connect with others who are passionate about sound, learn more about tweaking gear for peak performance, and maybe even try some DIY builds down the road. Looking forward to exploring and exchanging ideas with all of you!


Cheers

greetings from Cordoba Argentina!

Thank you so much for allowing me to be on this great forum! I've been an electronics technician for several years and also a musician.

I've recently put music aside to focus again on studying electronics and dedicate myself fully to my small lab!

I've always worked with audio repair, but now I'm focusing more on all types of professional and musical audio equipment, as well as some vintage ones.

Greetings and thanks again!

Lowther A55 alnico

Hello,

Long time...🤓

I’ve built a few Lowther back loaded horns over the years... I am now looking for a design that will suit my A55 drivers. I was looking at the Alerion plans, but it would require substantial mods to fit the fat A55 magnet in there. I was wondering if anyone here has experience building a BACK loaded horn for this specific model (or the A45)?

Any help woud be appreciated.

Thanks.
Dan

WTB Accuton and RAAL speaker

Hello Swap-Meet Community,


Many years ago I designed and built my own passive crossover pairing a RAAL ribbon tweeter with Scanspeak drivers (see my old thread: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/passive-crossover-for-raal-and-scan-speak.227199/). Life intervened —but now I’m ready to dive back in and I’m looking to source the following parts or kits:
  1. RAAL ribbon tweeter
    – Any SR1a / 140-15D models (new or gently used)
  2. Scanspeak top-of-range drivers
    – Beryllium-dome tweeters (e.g. Illuminator series)
    – Revelator midranges / woofers
  3. Accuton ceramic drivers
    – C-series tweeters or high-end ceramic woofers
  4. Passive crossover boards or component kits
    – Specifically configured for RAAL + Scanspeak or RAAL + Accuton combinations
  5. DIY crossover parts
    – Toroids, air-core inductors, film capacitors, resistors, PCBs—ideally matched to the above drivers
If you have any of the above sitting on your shelf, please PM me or if you have full speakers that would be nice too.

Could use input on a 2.1 boombox

I'd like a big clunky low distortion/ reasonably high spl capable 2.1 boombox centered around my GRS 12PT. A 30 liter 3rd order closed box would do the "point one". I'm looking (if sufficient money comes) at the 16 ohm Eminence Alphalite 6B to reach to 200Hz (again probably cap assisted) plus a tweeter. I know it will be stupid large - perhaps "stupid" period but am having health issues and want to be entertained, It would be run by a $40 Kinter 3118 2.1 amp and a phone. The Kinter has good SQ but its tone controls offer no boost.

A more practical solution due to such close channel spacing with 2.1 in one cabinet would build a MONO boombox.

Here's "1 watt" 2pi for 30 liter with 325uF

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Alphalite 6B is a 16 ohm driver - helpful to get closer to the woofer's sensitivty. Kinter's "sub" channel says 180Hz lowpass (might be 6dB/oct ?) plus 6B weighs only 1kg. Here's 1.5 liter with a cap.

So with these drivers I'm up to needing 33 liters air-space.

Some sort of tweeter is needed







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.

LJM L20 V9.0 Amplifier

Hi all,
I got two of these kits off ebay http://www.ebay.com

It all came very well packaged, and everything was there, except for a cap, which was the wrong value (220/63v instead of 150/80v). No big deal, i changed them all to 220/80v just for the heck of it. The PCBs look very robust and very well made, they're thick and heavy, almost glass like! They are, alone, totally worth the money. The output transistors (KEC D1047/B817) don't inspire a lot of confidence, but they should be ok for domestic music.

I assembled the kits and hooked them up to a 33v-0-33v beefy power supply for some testing. Both kits seem to work ok, and they sound just fine. I tried a 4Ω/100w sub woofer, and it quickly reached it's xmax. The heatsinks got warm after 2 minutes, but not hot...

Now the problem is, despite the good sound, i can measure no bias current at the outputs. The heatsinks are cold as beer even after an hour of being turned on with no signal at the input. I used 10Ω power resistors at each rail, and i calculated an idle current of about 13-14mA per rail, per amp module. It seems very low😕.

With inputs shorted, the emitter resistors (0.15Ω) all measure dead zero mV (0.0). The voltage across R26(200Ω) is about 850mV. I think thats about half the optimal voltage to even begin conduction at the output transistors.

What baffles me, is that the amp sounds just right with no apparent output bias. Even the top end sounds smooth, no signs of being grainy or harsh at all. Is that normal?

Could it be that the rail voltage is rather low? The optimal voltage per rail, according to the designer, is around 65v. I will test again with the power supply which i intend to use permanently (57v rails). I hope the higher dc voltage will affect the, almost non existing, standing current.

Here is a (not very revealing) schematic i lifted from another thread. I haven't checked for errors, but it seems close enough.

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How best to use a Lowther A45? for a mono speaker

I'm looking for advice on a mono speaker design for a small room.

A couple of years ago I had an idea of building a big Tractrix front loaded horn (FLH) and large mid-bass horn to go with - for a single mono speaker, i.e. a large 2-way (at the time inspired by Tune Audio). The mids driver used by Tune Audio is a modified Fostex 126 but I decided for some reason now lost in the mist of time to buy a Lowther A45 driver. I didn't proceed very far with this idea once I realized that I don't have a large enough room for such a beast and that the work effort involved was just too much for me to take on when I have other demands on my time. So I have this Lowther A45 just sitting around and I'm not sure what is the best way to put it to use. I'm interested in some suggestions from the forum members ?

To keep this simple I'm OK accepting some compromises in terms of the performance in order to limit the size and complexity so that I can build something without it taking months of effort. I'd also like to be able to deploy the speaker in a smaller room where it can provide a more intimate listening experience, partnered up with a tube amplifier.

1/ The driver is not really suitable for baffle mounted use due to the rising treble response (see attached datasheet). So, right off the bat I expect I'll need to address that limitation. One option is to shape the frequency response of the driving signal, either a filter network at the driver, or at line-level. The other option is to shape it physically by employing a small front horn, something designed to help flatten the frequency response rather than provide directional control - I'd actually like wide dispersion if possible.

2/ The driver is not really suitable for generating bass, it's got limited cone area and limited x-max. I guess it's good down to 200Hz to 300Hz at moderate listening levels suitable for a small room. Other than accepting limited low frequency output the only option would be to add a supporting woofer.

So with my limited experience I have been thinking about
a) Open Baffle with small front-horn on the Lowther and with the woofer needing real power it would have to be a bi-amp set-up,
b) A modest compound horn, i.e. a back loaded horn (e.g. Lowther Alerion for which I do have the plans) perhaps with a small front-horn on the Lowther. A separate sub is possible. What about a double mouthed horn - worth the extra wood ?

So as you can see, I've given this some thought already but I've so little experience of these things.

Your thoughts ?

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USSA-5 Build with Review

USSA-5 build and review:

Amplifier Design/layout: Fab (The Great and Powerful Ape)

Amplifer PCB Layout: Alex

PSU Design/Layout: Project16

PSU PCB Production: Prasi


I couldn't stop thinking about this amplifier. The obsession began with a few fleeting traces of it's existence. The few members that have actually completed it were mostly silenced by its greatness. When I had enquired about it, people simply said "Oh, the USSA-5? It's the best amp I've ever heard."

I had to build it. But, the great mind that designed the amp wasn't going to just give me the boards. I offered to build a children's wing at his nearest hospital in his name. He said no. I said I would make huge donations to wildlife preserves around the world. He still said no. He was like talking to Willy Wonka and I was Charlie Bucket. I needed a golden ticket....

In the end, what worked was honesty and a promise to do two things: to build the amplifier and write a review.

So, here it is.

For Sale bundle of two Soekris R2R DAC board with many kits | Dayton audio woofers and microphone

Last of my DIY parts

Bundle of Soekris two R2R DAC boards with many kits and accessories
this bundle includes:
1 - Soekris DAM 1021-02
This is new and tested confirmed working 100%. comes in original box from soekris with molex connectors, the USB cable to pragram the firmware and Neutrik XLR connectors are new and perfect. these are the pictures: Login to view embedded media
2 - Soekris DAM 1021-01
this is the one that is installed in the box. i have used this for coax and usb input a lot and sounded glorious. pictures below

3 - AMANERO USB ITS INSTALLED IN THE BOX,. pictures below

4 - AZ OLED lite Green color
this is perfect and tested. it is installed in the box. picrues below.

5 - Normundss kit for soekris 1021
here are the pictures:


6- the aluminum box with vu meters. this is an awesome box and i prefer to keeep it. it is complete and i have all parts and will be included


Things that i still have for sale: Login to view embedded media
1 - the linear power supply has really good and expensive and like new capacitors. the transformer is antek As 0509. this is free if you buy everything.

2 - Dayton audio 6.5 inch designer series woofer. quantity = 3. two are tested and like new and have solder residue. one is new. https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DS175-8-6-1-2-Designer-Series-Woofer-295-428?quantity=1

3 - Dayton measurement mic with calibration gragh. new https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...1Qb6g07lZP4sLsTooJmKa1ABDgWreSYcaAtHpEALw_wcB

4 - pair of peerless tweeters NEW
https://www.parts-express.com/Peerl...50U221j7tfuh5fhWG-HswPDSEVg4XRFAaAo4GEALw_wcB

all together $155 paypal friends and family
weight is almost 20 pounds for the whole thing

For Sale Fluke Multimeters (EU): 27, 27FM, 85, 87

Selling some "vintage" multimeters.

The legendary Fluke 27/27FM were made for demanding environments: rugged, 1m waterproof, quite bulky and heavy and with an incredibly long battery life. Not easy to find on this side of the pond.

The Fluke 85/87 are first-series models. I guess no introduction needed.

I tested them at 300mV DC, 3V DC, 5V DC, and 1V AC. I forgot the resistance test, but I can do it later this week. I have never used the current measurement.

Price list:
27 – 95 EUR
27FM – 115 EUR
85 – 130 EUR
87 – 160 EUR

If you buy a pair, we can share the shipping cost. If you take all four, I will cover the shipping.

PayPal in EUR via Friends & Family or + PayPal fee.

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Sunvalley SV-S1645 - 45 Tube Amp - Available NOW

Here is the info for the 45 amplifer from Sunvalley - SV-S1645D​

The composition of the vacuum tubes:

12AT7 x1 or 12AX7

12AU7 X 2

45 X 2

274B/5U4G (tube rectifier only)

Output transformer Hashimoto H20-7U.​

Choke and Power Transformer 115/230V custom made​

Made and Assembled by Sunvalley Japan with 4 x VCAP ODAM (0.1 X 2 + 0.22 X 2)​

Available in February 2024 - Only 25 units for the 1st production​

Price : $2,725 ( included development fee $250 per unit charged by Sunvalley)​


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[


[URL='https://flic.kr/p/2oPzp7X']



52701032247_c1a2d5fe0d_h.jpg
[/URL]

WE expect it will take 8-9 months to complete the following processes. Please stay tuned....
  1. Circuit approval - DONE
  2. Prototype production - DONE
  3. Prototype Evaluation - DONE
  4. Prototype approval - DONE
  5. Quote Approval - DONE
  6. Mass production - WIP
  7. Assembly _ Sept 2023
  8. Characteristics Verification
  9. Shipping jAN 2024
  10. SCHEDULE ARRIVED Vancouver Feb 24, 2024

Roederstein Draloric 0.60w resistor

Roederstein draloric 0.60w resistor

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Reactions: Fran008

DIY speakers based on Dunlavy speakers.

I heard these speakers by someone who tried to build Dunlavy SC V1 clone type speakers. They used two Focal Audiom 15 inch woofers. The model number for the woofers were 15VX. These were top of the line Focal Audio 15 inch woofers, 2 Focal Polyglass midbases. The model number for the midbase was 7K6411 and a Raven R2 ribbon tweeter.
The speakers were about 6 feet tall and weighed 335 pounds.

They speakers had a nice soundstage and the bass was tight with good extension. These woofers were very impressive.
Now, he couldn't do a crossover like Dunlavy. Dunlavy could make speakers that used ok drivers, but make the speakers sound great.

I remember i heard the Dunlavy SC-IV speakers that used all Vifa drivers. These speakers had an amazing soundstage and sounded very layered and the bass was fast and tight. I always though what could Dunlavy have designed using top of the line drivers like Focal at the time or Scanspeak.

Here's a pic of the speakers he designed.
1746193658421.png

Hello music lovers

I'm new here. I thought that some of you might be interested to know that while I love audio equipment and listening to great music, I am a professional musician...a violinist. I am the lead violin with the Fox Theater in St. Louis and I played in the Saint Louis Symphony Orchestra for 20 years. Very few of my colleagues have high quality systems and sit down to listen as I do. Perhaps performing is enough for them.

Adrian

UDP3: Umbilical Cable Driver for Pearl 3 phonostage -- move Pearl 3 PSU into its own, distant, chassis

Fourteen days ago, on October 1st, Wayne Colburn presented his Pearl 3 phonostage design at the 2023 Burning Amp Festival. Today I'd like to unveil "UDP3", a PCB which makes it relatively straightforward to build an external power supply for Pearl 3, in a separate chassis, connected by an umbilical cord. A few reasons why builders might wish to put Pearl 3's DC supply in its own box, include:
  • This lets you move the mains transformer far away from the sensitive Pearl 3 PCBs. Greater separation gives greater isolation.
  • The external PSU chassis provides an electrostatic and electromagnetic shielding box, surrounding the mains transformer. This dramatically reduces noise radiated from the mains transformer and wiring.
  • If desired, you can build an additional box-within-a-box, thereby double shielding the mains transformer. You don't have to worry whether the extra size and volume of the second box will intrude upon the Pearl 3 phonostage PCBs.
The UDP3 board (Umbilical Cable Driver for Pearl 3) is shown below. It requires a dual secondary power transformer (2 x 22VAC RMS) which is not mounted on the UDP3 board. Many builders will probably choose a blue encapsulated Toroid from Tamura or Amgis, 15 VA, mounted on a blank piece of experimenter's perfboard.

The UDP3 circuit is a cascade of several lowpass filters connected in series; it is NOT a voltage regulator and there are no negative feedback loops. This is intentional and deliberate; NFB loop gain generally falls as frequency rises, often at a slope of -20dB per decade of frequency. But we want lots of attenuation (a/k/a "PSRR") at high frequencies, exactly where NFB regulators poop out.

Instead, UDP3 uses ferrite beads and several cascaded filters (one of which is a two-pole LRC filter), to achieve excellent noise reduction even at radio frequencies. The big idea is: provide Pearl 3 with a pair of low-ripple, low-noise, RF-free raw DC voltages, and let Pearl 3's onboard voltage regulators do their job, when given pristine inputs.

The UDP3 outputs plus and minus nineteen volts (approximately! remember, UDP3 is not a regulator), which the 7815 and 7915 voltage regulator IC on the Pearl 3 boards, then reduce to smooth and regulated plus and minus 15 volts.

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION

(You may want to open the schematic image in another window, or print it on paper, to follow the discussion in this section and quickly see which component is "C5", etc.)

C1, C3, R1, BR1, and C5 form an unremarkable, ordinary AC-to-DC rectifier and filter, plus Quasimodo snubbing. You'll notice I have used C3 = 1000 nanofarads, and 1000 != 150. I spoke to the Quasimodo inventor about this, explained my reasoning, and got his approval. So use 1000 nF in your build (see Detailed Parts List) and be happy.

Then ferrite bead FB1 converts high frequency noise on C5, into heat. The ripple waveform (now on C7) has far less high frequency noise.

NPN Darlington Q1 and its supporting components, forms a capacitance multiplier that is protected against overvoltage (ZD1) and turn on/off shocks (D1). Resistor R3 ensures that the collector-base voltage of Q1 never goes negative ... which could allow input ripple voltage to shoot straight through to the output.

Then L1 + C13 + (the DC resistance of L1) form a two pole LCR lowpass filter, attenuating high frequency noise quite effectively. The relatively pure, low noise DC signal on C13 is presented to Q3 and its supporting components.

The Q3 circuit can be considered a "clamped capacitance multiplier" because its output voltage is clamped and cannot exceed (approx!!) 19 volts, even as the input voltages rises far above 19V, thanks to U1 and ZD3. The relatively weird and unknown (but extremely CHEAP) adjustable shunt reference part called AZ431AZ is used, because it offers plus minus 0.4 percent accuracy for less than USD 0.50. Much better bang for the buck than the T.I. "TL431" which is pin compatible but less accurate.

Finally, there is an output rail fuse F1 and a ferrite bead FB3 to remove the last vestiges of high frequency noise. The fuse, a small thru-hole packaged device, blows if/when you mistakenly short UDP3's output. It is available on DigiKey and Mouser for about 40 cents per fuse. Because they cost so little, I recommend you buy at least six fuses of each of three different fusing currents. Or more. Now when you get a surprise fuse-blow event during testing, you will have plenty of spares, and they don't cost an arm and a leg.

To test the first UDP3 prototype, I connected a pair of 100 ohm, 30 watt resistors to the UDP3 outputs (see photo below). These are cheap to buy and build, I suggest you get some too and test your UDP3 carefully before hooking it up to your precious Pearl 3. At plus and minus 19 volts output, these load resistors consume 190 milliamperes per supply, comfortably more than Pearl 3 draws. During testing with 190 mA load current, fuses rated 250 mA never blew.

HOWEVER, it's all but inevitable that some "hot rodder" types of builders, will add high current discrete opamps to Pearl 3. And increase the bias current in the BJT output stage. And possibly other stunts or gymnastic shenanigans which are unimaginable at the moment. Therefore UDP3 is deliberately over-designed, to provide 350 mA from +19V and 350 mA from -19V (with higher current fuses fitted of course!!) Heatsinking the pass transistors lets them operate comfortably even at these high current levels.

Schottky diodes D5 and D6 are panic protection components, whose only job is to set the rails to not-stupid voltages after a fuse blows.

WHO SHOULD COMPLETELY IGNORE UDP3?

A quick glance at the UDP3 schematic reveals that there are a LOT of components. Including four Euroblox connectors, four extruded aluminum heatsinks, eight super-low-ESR electrolytic capacitors, oh and by the way, a second chassis (!!). If you're hoping to build a cheap, cheap PSU for your Pearl 3 phonostage, this isn't it. Too many parts.

Similarly, if you're hoping to build a teeny tiny PSU that occupies very little chassis volume, UDP3 isn't for you. PCB size is 112mm X 132mm (mounting holes 100 x 120) and the heatsinks are an inch tall (25.4 mm). That doesn't even include the power transformer. See the photo of UDP3 atop a 170x230 Modushop "Galaxy" below.

Finally, if you're hoping for a "paint by numbers" audio project that doesn't require you to reason about electronics, not even once: UDP3 may not be a good project for you. There's no wiring diagram, there's no suggested part numbers for the AC mains IEC inlet or fuse holder or on/off switch, there's no transformer mounting recommendation, the list goes on and on. Avoid misery; don't attempt UDP3 if it is beyond your current builder-training-and-skill level.

ATTACHMENTS

The schematic, detailed Parts List, and PCB manufacturing Gerbers (.zip archive) are attached to this post, below. It is "Rev.A" -- the first official release of UDP3.

I've also got a few extra PCBs of the experimental prototype (rev.0) which are built on extra sturdy 2.0mm thick fiberglass, and are 50% stiffer than standard PCBs. {remember, stiffness is proportional to thickness squared}. Send me a selfie photo of yourself holding up your two chassis for Pearl 3 and UDP3, also holding the two bare Pearl 3 boards, and I'll send you a rev.0 UDP3 circuit board for $5.00. That's the cost of a mailer envelope and shipping via USPS.

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AmyAlice: DC filter for SMPS, using 2 feedthru capacitors + SMD assembly. max 3A & max 48V

AmyAlice is a simple DC filter which you install between a noisy Switch Mode Power Supply, and a piece of audio gear that expects relatively smooth, clean, high purity DC power input. It's intended to be used with line level audio equipment, such as DACs, active crossovers, NuTube boxes, preamps, headphone amps, H2 generators, DIYA front end boxes, and so on. The maximum voltage AmyAlice can support is 48V and the maximum current it can deliver is 3A, which is plenty for line level gear, and sometimes enough for a sub- 5 watt power amp (like for example the ACA mini).

There already exists a very nice DC filter for SMPS, as a project in the diyAudio store, which I encourage you to investigate. AmyAlice is similar to the Store filter, the differences being
  • AmyAlice uses high performance, SMD-only, feedthrough capacitors. The thru-hole PCB in the store, does not
  • AmyAlice includes a high performance ferrite bead to improve HF and VHF attenuation. The store PCB does not
  • AmyAlice uses physically bigger inductors with 5x greater inductance than the inductors on the store PCB
  • the Store PCB is smaller in size. See photo attached.
  • the Store sells kits-of-all-parts. No such kits exist for AmyAlice, to my knowledge
There is a very detailed thread about the Store PCB here on the Forums (link), which contains many excellent contributions by Forum members. Clever ways to package an SMPS filter are shown, clever sources for cables and plugs and jacks are discussed, and many user testimonials proclaim the sonic benefits, before-versus-after installing a filter. Owners of the Store PCB are very enthusiastic about the sonic improvements they get.

THEN WHY BUILD AmyAlice AT ALL?

The DC filter kit in the store has always been implemented with thru-hole components only. A large number of builders are certain they cannot possibly succeed with surface mount parts, and quite a few more simply refuse to even try. For them, and everyone else, the all-thru-hole, zero-SMD store kit is available.

However, as Forum readers are well aware, there are lots of new electronic components which are offered ONLY in SMD packages. High volume electronics manufacturing is all-SMD in Y2023, therefore component suppliers meet their customers' needs with all-SMD parts. This is particularly true of new components, which, by the very definition of the word "new", do not exist in legacy thru-hole designs. The whole world has moved on to SMD assembly.

A couple of new, SMD-only components are now available, which enable much better performance (i.e. greater noise attenuation) in SMPS DC filters. These SMD parts cannot be used on the Store PCB, or any other must-be-thru-hole-only board. But they CAN be used on AmyAlice because AmyAlice allows SMD components.

One such SMD component is the 1.0 microfarad, 3-terminal Feedthru Capacitor sold by TDK. Its datasheet, and the attenuation plot from that datasheet, are attached below. AmyAlice uses the "2A105" model of Feedthru Capacitor; as you can see, it offers spectacular HF attenuation, even at 100 kHz. AmyAlice actually includes two of these, so its attenuation is spectacular-squared.

A second addition to AmyAlice is an SMD packaged ferrite bead from Wurth. The impedance curve of this bead is attached below; it rejects HF, RF, and VHF noise quite aggressively. The ferrite bead is the first series element in the AmyAlice cascade of filters.

As the schematic diagram (below) indicates, AmyAlice consists of the ferrite bead, followed by a series cascade of two identical R-FTC-L-C passive filters. "R" is resistor R1, "FTC" is feedthru capacitor C1, "L" is inductor L1, and "C" is electrolytic capacitor C2. Each L-C pair contributes two poles to the lowpass filter, so AmyAlice as a whole contains a four pole passive lowpass filter. A four pole lowpass has a total of 80 dB of attenuation per decade, which is quite steep. Of course Murphy's Law dictates that the parasitic elements (parasitic C of the inductors; ESR and ESL of the capacitors; etc) diminish the attenuation at frequency extremes. AmyAlice is certainly not 80 dB per decade all the way from 1 Hz to terahertz! Oh no.

But wait, we have underestimated the attenuation. The 80 dB/decade figure doesn't include the extra attenuation provided by each of the feedthrough capacitors. Which is about 23 dB of attenuation at 100 kHz, and in excess of 60 dB at all frequencies between 7 MHz and 200 MHz. Wow. AmyAlice gets this attenuation boost twice, from the two FTCs. Also note: the 80dB/decade figure doesn't include the extra attenuation provided by the ferrite bead at the input. The bead adds further attenuation beyond about 2 MHz, see plot attached below.

So, putting it all together, approximately how much better is AmyAlice than the store filter PO89ZB? My own conservative (under)estimate is: 18dB greater attenuation. {math: log10( 18dB / 20 ) = 8x}. I estimate that AmyAlice is at least 8x better than PO89ZB, removing SMPS noise. However AmyAlice IS a bigger board, with 3 additional parts, and it "cheats" by using modern, surface mount components. To choose one versus the other, you will need to do your own cost-versus-benefit analysis. Or in some cases, an annoyance-versus-benefit analysis.

HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN AmyAlice BOARD(S)

This project is not suitable for beginners or people who are completely lost without a Build Guide, assembly video, or tutorial. It requires SMD soldering which is a skill you develop by repetition and lots of practice.

You will need to order AmyAlice PCBoards from a PCB fab shop. I have written a quick Walkthrough that shows how to do this at the fab called "JLCPCB" (link); however the same principles and same steps are used at all fabs. Study the Walkthrough and I'm sure you will conclude: ordering PCBs is not mysterious, it's not complicated, and it's not at all frightening. It's exactly like buying anything else on an e-commerce website.

If you're feeling generous, you can order a bunch of AmyAlice PCBs, so you'll have plenty of extra boards left over, after you've built the AmyAlice(s) for yourself. You can offer these extra boards to other diyAudio members for free, or at your cost, or for a net profit to you. Your decision! Simply post a message here saying "7 extra AmyAlice boards available in UK/EU at price XXX, send me a PM if you want any". Or whatever your convenient shipping zone happens to be.

As of today, all of the components needed by AmyAlice are available and on the shelf at both US-Mouser and US-DigiKey. At least they are on 2023-Nov-02. If and when a part goes out of stock, you will have to download its datasheet and find the important characteristics, such as physical size, lead spacing, wattage, voltage rating, current rating, resistance, inductance, capacitance, etc. Then you will need to search for an equivalent part which matches those important characteristics, and is in stock at a distrubutor you are willing to buy from. If you feel incapable of this task; if it sounds more advanced than your current abilities as a DIY hobbyist; then perhaps you should wait and learn and grow, building other less challenging projects, before trying to buy parts for AmyAlice.

Will AmyAlice ever appear in the diyAudio Store? I don't know the answer with any certainty. I . DO . NOT . KNOW . However my own personal opinion is: AmyAlice probably won't become a Store product, because (A) the kit in the Store right now is selling very well, why mess with a good thing? and also (B) AmyAlice requires SMD soldering and the existing kit in the store does not. Since so many people reject SMD soldering completely, why swim against the tide? Let those few people who really, really want AmyAlice, order their own boards and source their own parts. Meanwhile the store happily sells 100 thru hole kits every month (??) -- it's a smooth running, well oiled machine by now. 22INDEX22

This is just my own opinion; I have ZERO visibility into the operations or plans of the Store. 22INDEX22

News (13 Dec 2023): a Member has created new PCB layouts for AmyAlice, some of which also include a capacitance multiplier circuit. You can find them in this thread: A2CMx: AmyAlice DC filter and cap multiplier for SMPS .

News (27 Feb 2024): a Member has created a new "slim" PCB layout for AmyAlice, and added an LED pilot light. You can find the board+Gerbers in this thread: AmyAlice SLIM - SMPS filter .

News (14 July 2024): a Member has created a new PCB layout for AmyAlice, which fits perfectly within a plastic enclosure. You can find the board+Gerbers in this thread: Compact SMPS filter using AmyAlice circuit design .

ANSWERS TO FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

FAQ_01: Is it possible to assemble a pair of AmyAlice PCBs to implement a bipolar supply filter? For example, a filter that receives noisy ±24V inputs and produces quiet ±24V outputs? ANSWER: yes. See post #31 of this Forum thread.

FAQ_02: Is it possible to assemble an AmyAlice PCB that filters a negative power supply voltage, i.e., a voltage below ground? ANSWER: yes, see FAQ_01.

FAQ_03: If I build two AmyAlice filter boards and connect them in parallel, can I safely run 6 amperes (2 x 3 amps per board) through the parallel combination? ANSWER: no. See post #37 of this Forum thread.

FAQ_04: Has anyone created a "shopping cart" at DigiKey and/or Mouser, containing all components needed to build one AmyAlice PCB? ANSWER: yes, see posts #16 and #56 respectively, in this Forum thread.

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F5mX - A 50w bridged F5m... Sort of...

I built a bridged F5m which I am calling the F5mX. It is pretty minimal for a bridged amp.

It is pretty much a F5m that is bridged plus a few little tricks. The most interesting thing is that it has CCS resistors on the OS stage. They are oriented on opposite rails on the opposing phases to hopefully break a little bit of symmetry and give us a little 2nd harmonic distortion.

The Schematics and the BOM are in the 2nd and 3rd post.

The power supply has the bridge rectifiers integrated in the board. You can see I snip the terminals after soldering. Keep in mind that snipping the terminals off is easier without the caps mounted. Snipping them off also makes it a bit easier to desolder the bridges if ever needed. The PSU has 70uF film caps bypassing the last stage of the CRC cap bank. The EL caps are 24x10,000uF 35v. Ground lift is on the board and connects through the standoff. there is also a Quasimodo Snubber circuit on the board which I recommend using. My transformer required a 7 ohm resistor for RS1 and RS2. A 8-10 ohm resistor would work as well.

1735877880540.png


1735874928562.png


The front end connects to the output stages with two 16 pin (2 rows of 8) female to female ribbon cables. I bought the ribbon cables and sockets from Amazon. I did have to shorten them as they are very long. It is not very difficult to do.

Each channel on the front end pulls it's power supply from the output stage via the ribbon cables. There is a single ground wire connecting to the PSU which you can see in the pic below. The front end mounts to the standoffs that the power supply mounts to the bottom panel with. So you have short standoffs under the PS, then tall standoffs going from the PS to the front end. I made the standoff holes on all the boards large enough to accomodate #6 thread so you can use either your typical metric standoffs or larger #6. The OS simply mounts by being soldered to the leads on the IRFP140/9240 mosfets. When you assemble the front end, it is good to reduce the resistance of the pots to their minimum setting. This will make it so that they are not biasing the output stage upon first startup. I used Dale resistors as there are so few, and they are convinient for troubleshooting so long as you are careful to face the value labels upwards.

There are spots for source resistors on the JFETs (the 10 ohms) but you can jump as you see in the photo below (between the JFETs). These are there to allow a bit of flexibility in the event that someone wants to experiment.

1735877966337.png



1735876488441.png


1735875366561.png



1735875413596.png

The front end takes one quad of J74/K170 Toshiba JFETs per channel. The outputs are two pairs of IRFP140/9140 (one pair per phase). However, there are spots for 4 pairs of output devices per channel so you can experiment. I used 0R36 source resistors and it behaved great. However feel free to use the standard 0R47. If you are only using the four mosfets per channel, feel free to skip the gate resistors just like on the regular F5m. There are spots for thermistors on the OS board to make the bias more agressive at a cold startup but I haven't tested this yet. It works just fine without them. As you can see, I have four of the 2.2k CCS resistors populated per phase. I like this amount but you can try more or less. I use ceramic insulators on the mosfets but feel free to use the stores insulators. They are great!

1735875474374.png


I have had it biased at about 50-60 watts of class and have tested it up to about 110 watts in class B. Assuming you are using a quad of outputs per channel, and have a 5u chassis, with your 0R47 source resistors, use the normal say .500v per mosfet and see how hot things get. If you use 0R36 resistors, you can set it to 0.380v accross a source resistor. Then lower or raise it accordingly. If you are using 4 pairs of mosfets per channel, drop the bias per device in half and tune for temperature.

The transformer that I am using is a 22vac 800va which is giving me around 26.5vdc rails. Antek gave me simple instructions on others ordering this same transformer.

1735875540102.png


The boards are set up for UMS spacing. The power supply board and the soft start board has the holes set to 10mm spacing so they should bolt right up to the preferated bottom plate that DIYaudio sells. One board set includes:

Front end board
two output supply boards
one power supply board
one soft start board

1735876416888.png


Okay, the sound. Well, the F5m is excellent! The F5mX is cleaner, more detailed, and can make more power... I have been enjoying it quite a bit. Due to the CCS, it is not steril. However, if you have a good tube source you really like, then that is just wonderful. I have a tube DAC which really plays well with this amp. The highs are very very detailed. In the highs, the F5mX is all telling. But overall still a bit relaxed like the F5m. The bass is fairly tight but doesn't make a point of itself. For me, what I appreciate is the interaction between the mids and highs. It has no problem commanding a large space with my 89dB sensitive floorstanders.

The boards are $45 a set. If you have a DIYaudio paid membership, you get a $5 discount! 🙂 I will have my first 10 sets in about a week.

PMD100works with 88khz sample rate

Today (just after only 19years of usage) discovered that PMD100 suports 88.2khz rate in real world conditions(cs8414 receiver and kernel) 96khz sound can be heard but very discorted. two units tested in both 16 bits RJ and 24 bits LJ modes.


tried NPC SM5842APT in same DAC - works up to 48khz 88.2khz and 96khz very discorted and very loud(full scale output to DAC)

Datasheet says PMD suports up to55khz. And yes I am sure source exact 88.2KHZ saple rate.

What a surpsise

MyRef 20th Anniversary Edition and a simple Reference LM3886 board

March 2025 marks the 20th anniversary of Mauro Penasa's "modest contribution to this forum" (his own words) - the "MyRef" composite LM3886 amplifier. I thought the anniversary is a good excuse to design a new board for the MyRef. It turned out pretty nice, so I'm sharing the results.

The MyRef remains one of the few published composite chipamp designs. I built my first MyRef back in 2011 - on Mauro's original board, with my own relay-based 96-step volume control - but I always wanted to build a better version.

Here it comes, mounted on a 2U (80mm) heatsink:
IMG_0567 small.png

The board for one channel is 90x50mm, all through hole, with two layers. The schematic (see post #3 below) closely follows Mauro's original Rev.C. However, I took the liberty of adding regulators to the LM318's power supply; the two TO-220 regulators are visible in the photo above. The board includes neither raw power supply nor speaker DC protection, both of which I implemented separately.

The linearity is pretty nice for such a simple amplifier:
THD 1kHz 40W 8ohm annotated.png
More spectra are attached to the post #14 below.

Also, while developing the above board, I designed another, for a simple non-inverting LM3886 based amplifier according to the datasheet schematic:
IMG_0558 small.png
Mechanically, this board is identical to the other one. My objective was to test some ideas for board layout and routing, but this board also turned out quite nice in its own right. The schematic is attached to the post #15 below, measurements - to #16.

Inductor Impedance Question

If a crossover design calls for an 8mH / 0.790 Ohms and the two closest options are 8.2@0.800 ohms (Solen) or 8.0 @ 1.75 ohms (Janzen), which would be better or does it even matter? Actually I've already purchased the 8.0/1.75 Janzen which I suppose I could return. Any issues with either of these? If it matters, this is for a first order XO on the woofer with only a single inductor. Thanks

My best discrete preamp with 3 transistors

Let me start to say that this is only simulation with SPICE.
But I have no doubt this amplifier should do very well for real.
I challenge you to do something like it or even better 🙂

Design goals:
1. Fully discrete
2. Max 3 transistors
3. Voltage gain 4-5
4. Load 1Vrms into 4.7kOhm
5. Regulated 12V supply

Result in SPICE:
1. Voltage gain 4.6
2. THD 0.00011%
3. Frequency response 5Hz-300kHz -3dB

3 Transistor Pre_10 Improved.jpg

Cheap EL34 Ali kit conversion to 300B amplifier

Hello,

I am no expert in tubes at all and have an amplifier built from the kit purchased on Aliexpress:
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005...3Lcnrian&utparam-url=scene:search|query_from:

1746105730386.png


I have a pair of 300B EH tubes which I would like to use so I am thinking to repurpose the chassis and power supply for new build.
The goal is decent amplifier, not crazy hi-end stuff, let's be realistic here. So my main question is what would be the way to go: can I reuse the output transformers? What to choose as the first stage?

DIY STM32 USB-I2S Multichannel board

Based on PMs I've received there seems to be some interest in DIY STM32 USB-I2S boards. Earlier I have published designs and software for I2S input board mainly for ADCs (https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diy-adcs.419922/). So let's up the ante and do the same for I2S output board for DACs. Over the last few years I've made several board designs with STM32F7 and STM32H7 having both I2S output and input or I2S output/I2S input only. I believe the STM32H7 based design presented here is quite versatile and should work well with most DACs.

usbi2sv6_2.jpg
usbi2sv6_1.jpg



HW specs:
  • STM32H723 running at 550MHz
  • USB3343 USB HS PHY. USB connector is mini-B.
  • 16-pin header for output
    • I2S with 4x SD (digitally isolated). All I2S signals are buffered and routed through same number of gates/buffers to maintain timings. Digital isolators are lowest jitter 6-channel isolators currently available.
    • I2C bus (digitally isolated)
    • 3 output GPIOs (digitally isolated). In addition unused SD lines can be used as output GPIOs as well.
    • Isolator power (3.3V)
  • MMCX connectors for I2S and external clock.
  • 6 GPIO pin header for jumper configuration or I/O.
  • 2x audio clocks (size 2520/3225) with independent enable control. Clocks can be either 22M/24M or 45M/49M. I use NZ2520SDAs.
  • External clock input (MMCX). Digitally isolated clock selector GPIO for external clock.
  • 20-pin header with 2x SPI (for touch screens) and encoder interface for display/control.
  • I2C bus for displays etc. (independent from output I2C)
  • Battery for backup memory and RTC.
  • 6-pin header for SWD
  • 4 status LEDs
  • Powered either from USB or external 5V supply
  • Board size 75x50mm (without outer mounting holes)
Currently supported protocols:
  • I2S
    • 2 channels up to 768kHz/32bits (with 45M/49M clocks)
    • 4 channels up to 384k/32
    • 8 channels up to 192k/32
  • DSD up to DSD512 or DoP256. Native DSD only in Linux as no ASIO driver yet.
  • TDM
    • TDM128 (4 channels) up to 384k/32
    • TDM256 (8 channels) up to 192k/32
    • TDM256x2 (16 channels) up to 96k/32
    • TDM256x4 (32 channels) up to 48k/32 (not tested).
  • PCM
    • 2 channel single ended or differential up to 768k/32
    • 4 channels up to 384k/32
    • Format: 2's complement, offset binary, simultaneous (also 16fs)
    • Bit depths: 16, 18, 20, 24, 32.
Other:
  • HID interface for configuration
  • DFU interface for firmware upload.
What is missing:

The board works "out-of-the-box" with stand-alone DACs. For DACs requiring I2C or GPIOs a "driver" can be implemented. Currently I have driver implementations for ES9038Q2M, ES9039Q2M, AK4490, AK4493, AK4499+AK4191.

Connection to DAC can be made either through the 16-pin header or using MMCX for I2S with separate wiring for I2C, GPIOs and isolator power. In my DACs I have "sandwiched" the USB-I2S board with DAC board as all my DAC boards have same format and connector placement.

es9038q2m+AK4493.jpg



With display/control board, power supply (e.g. SilentSwitcher) and headphone amp board it is possible to build a compact DIY USB DAC having versatile functionality and good performance. Even bettering commercial offerings.

MKDAC.jpg


Attached are the gerbers, schematic and BOM. BOM has Mouser part numbers except for the NZ2520SDAs which are available from Digikey. Board is quite challenging for hand soldering. Smallest resistors are 0402 size and some ICs are leadless. I have assembled lots of these boards but I have a reflow oven. If there is larger interest it would probably be easiest (and most economical) to organize a group buy and have the boards manufactured professionally.

For sofware development I recommend STM tools which are excellent and license-free. For uploading software to an empty MCU a ST-Link programmer is needed. Easiest is to use a STM32 Nucleo development board which are available for about 15 EUR in Mouser. After initial programming DFU interface can be used for software updates. I will not publish the software source code here but it is available directly from me. If interested send me PM. Sorry, not for vendors.

Attachments

question on tuning

I've been told that I cant go by the factory FRD information and that I'll need to some software to gather the correct info to start designing my crossovers. My question is, how are you running the speakers with no crossovers? Are you running individual drivers? Wiring everything in a series or parallel to an amp terminal? Last, what app or program does everyone rely on to get accurate information?
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