Shigaclone MKII Black - The builders Thread

Firsts stage

I need to solder first all SMD components .
Then after finish SMD solder I take the first IC .
If there is to much solder I use some braid to remove excess .
 

Attachments

  • 20140428_090342.jpg
    20140428_090342.jpg
    588.5 KB · Views: 9,641
  • 20140428_090345.jpg
    20140428_090345.jpg
    565.1 KB · Views: 8,842
  • 20140428_101240.jpg
    20140428_101240.jpg
    448.1 KB · Views: 8,385
  • 20140428_101307.jpg
    20140428_101307.jpg
    345.9 KB · Views: 8,153
Then the next IC and on the other side again solder solder solder...
The display/LCD board have a strict order of solder :
first connector ( or ribbon direct if you do not use connector) and then other components.
Then we solder the power board and then testing .
 

Attachments

  • 20140429_172646.jpg
    20140429_172646.jpg
    399.9 KB · Views: 7,872
  • 20140429_172708.jpg
    20140429_172708.jpg
    478.9 KB · Views: 1,356
  • 20140505_163832.jpg
    20140505_163832.jpg
    422.4 KB · Views: 1,128
  • 20140506_131618.jpg
    20140506_131618.jpg
    377.3 KB · Views: 964
  • 20140505_163743.jpg
    20140505_163743.jpg
    370.9 KB · Views: 976
  • 20140505_163819.jpg
    20140505_163819.jpg
    400.6 KB · Views: 1,188
Modding phase

I have some favorites modding on to do list :
- C8 = 100nF Silver Gold Oil Mundorf
- Clock Tentlabs Low Jitter 16,934Mhz (this means out with C57 ,C58, X01) and solder L8
- V3 and V4 miniregs , out with L9 ,L5 , solder wire for 2 miniregs
- C10 = Oscon Sanyo 270uF/10V
- C13 = Nichicon VR(M) 470uF/16V
- R48 , R36 Naked Vishay Resistors
- C11 1nF silver mica

Next I will build a case for this CD player .
 

Attachments

  • 20140507_075604.jpg
    20140507_075604.jpg
    570.7 KB · Views: 1,511
  • 20140507_075622.jpg
    20140507_075622.jpg
    406.4 KB · Views: 1,449
  • 20140507_075519.jpg
    20140507_075519.jpg
    556.7 KB · Views: 1,417
  • 20140506_211026.jpg
    20140506_211026.jpg
    363.5 KB · Views: 1,407
  • 20140506_145301.jpg
    20140506_145301.jpg
    480.5 KB · Views: 1,573
Nice work Dan !

Here is how to build a modified power supply for Shiga MKII.

I'll start with tools I use.
Two tweezers, one for 1206 and one for 0805, flux, different pincers and solder pump.
My preferred solder is Mundorf silver-gold and I use only solder with high Ag percentage and very good flux. Cynel is also good one - SN96A-0.5/0.5 CYNEL - Solder | TME - Electronic components

You will need also a magnifier lamp, soldering station and optional rework station.

Regards,
Tibi
 

Attachments

  • 20140505_013.jpg
    20140505_013.jpg
    636.1 KB · Views: 1,338
  • 20140505_009.jpg
    20140505_009.jpg
    502.7 KB · Views: 682
  • 20140505_015.jpg
    20140505_015.jpg
    786.4 KB · Views: 823
  • 20140505_012.jpg
    20140505_012.jpg
    868.6 KB · Views: 894
  • 20140505_010.jpg
    20140505_010.jpg
    617.5 KB · Views: 722
The parts I use for modded power supply.

Instead Soft recovery diodes MSR860 proposed by Peter Daniel, I chose to go for Silicon Carbide Schottky Cree CSD1060A. To my ears these offer a smother and more fluid high register.

The power supply board offer the option for two regulators, standard LM7808 and LT1086Adj.
Beside lower noise and excellent current capability, I got more detail with LT1086Adj, so this is my first choice here. LM317 is out of discussion here, performing under standard 7808, so don't waste your time.
As Black Gates are history, for primary 2200uF cap my choice is Panasonic FM decoupled with an oil cap. I used Russian PIO with great results, but new Mundorf EVO series are quite amazing, compact and performing very very good. Any HF spikes and noise are very nice cleaned.
You can get them from partsconnexion. Very good value.

For output cap my choice was Elna Cerafine decoupled with a 1nF silver-mica. The cerafine will provide excellent low esr, stabilizing LT1086 regulator, while 1nF silver mica, with his ultra low ERS/ESL, will clean further any HF noise.

IMHO this is the most cost effective power supply who will sensible improve your Shiga MKII.

Regards,
Tibi
 

Attachments

  • 20140426_013.jpg
    20140426_013.jpg
    859.2 KB · Views: 1,665
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes, I started with the SMD resistors. The 100R ones are missing but I rather take that thru PM or in the GB thread. There were a bunch of SMD capacitors without markings so a LCD meter seems to be a mandatory tool :( I will take these last and solder in the ones identified first to see what they are meant. Maybe they are the same value all of them :). Otherwise - marvelous quality.
 
Case will come

Gone to some little enterprise from my town and got 2 plate : one for cover and one for bottom .
Like in pictures .
Also i buy one piece of wood of 10 cm wide , 2,5cm deep and 2 meters long .
Must now work to do front panel rear panel and rest.
 

Attachments

  • 20140428_131857.jpg
    20140428_131857.jpg
    386.6 KB · Views: 1,500
  • 20140428_131907.jpg
    20140428_131907.jpg
    298.5 KB · Views: 950
  • 20140428_131925.jpg
    20140428_131925.jpg
    342.2 KB · Views: 711
  • bucata scandura.jpg
    bucata scandura.jpg
    218.4 KB · Views: 718
Yes, I started with the SMD resistors. The 100R ones are missing but I rather take that thru PM or in the GB thread. There were a bunch of SMD capacitors without markings so a LCD meter seems to be a mandatory tool :( I will take these last and solder in the ones identified first to see what they are meant. Maybe they are the same value all of them :). Otherwise - marvelous quality.

If you are missing 100R resistor than means all other kits are missing this part too. :scratch:
I mentioned several times that a LCR meter is mandatory to finish SHIGA MKII.
On first SHIGA GB I did my best to mark all parts. People started to solder these without measuring and switched 3,3nF with 33nF, 10nF with 100nF and other parts too. This lead to non functioning kits or malfunctioning ones.
So, I decided do not mark these parts and force you to measure them. :devily:
Please measure resistors as well, because 3300 is not the same with 332.

About LCR, I personally use an Amprobe 37XR-A. This is same with Meterman 37XR-A.

Regards,
Tibi
 

Attachments

  • 20140507_002.jpg
    20140507_002.jpg
    683.1 KB · Views: 868
Last edited by a moderator:
Now after a day work at case , I am at stage where follows retouch and to make holes for LCD on front and on back holes for SPDIF , Power and power button.
I have attached pictures during the working and till the actual stage of case.
 

Attachments

  • 20140508_192842.jpg
    20140508_192842.jpg
    427.3 KB · Views: 1,002
  • 20140508_192656.jpg
    20140508_192656.jpg
    417.6 KB · Views: 1,141
  • 20140508_192603.jpg
    20140508_192603.jpg
    609.8 KB · Views: 2,953
  • 20140508_192102.jpg
    20140508_192102.jpg
    339.8 KB · Views: 2,917
  • 20140508_180834.jpg
    20140508_180834.jpg
    326.5 KB · Views: 2,956
  • 20140508_152741.jpg
    20140508_152741.jpg
    307.4 KB · Views: 3,056
  • 20140508_152717.jpg
    20140508_152717.jpg
    426 KB · Views: 3,255
If you are missing 100R resistor than means all other kits are missing this part too. :scratch:
I mentioned several times that a LCR meter is mandatory to finish SHIGA MKII.
On first SHIGA GB I did my best to mark all parts. People started to solder these without measuring and switched 3,3nF with 33nF, 10nF with 100nF and other parts too. This lead to non functioning kits or malfunctioning ones.
So, I decided do not mark these parts and force you to measure them. :devily:
Please measure resistors as well, because 3300 is not the same with 332.

About LCR, I personally use an Amprobe 37XR-A. This is same with Meterman 37XR-A.

Regards,
Tibi

Never mind the LCR - I have been thinking of buying one for ages so thank you :)... Found the 100R resistors - they were not 1206 size but round parts as the 0R ones... But there are R50 and R51 missing. I got one extra 10R though.

Nice box danzup! :up:

Edit: I found the new BOM - R50/51's absence explained:)

Regards
 
Last edited:
Building minireg

Building ULN LDO minireg.

You got in your KIT two minireg pcb boars. These are optional and have been added as bonus. Even there is space to mount 4 such miniregs, only two can be mounted for V3 and V4.
V3 will power oscillator section, while V4 will power the rest of LC78601R sections.
These will enhance Shiga MKII performance to next level. ;) I highly recommend to use them.
(For V1 and V2 you may use other super-regulators able to deliver at least 100mA continuously. Due laser current needs, V1 and V2 regulators must be powered from a separate power supply, or before main 8V regulator.)

There are two types of miniregs you can build. One using fixed 5V output regulator marked LT17635 and adjustable output marked LT1763.
Will address construction for both.

Parts needed for LT1763adj:
- minireg pcb
- LT1763adj
- two resistors 33K and 10K
- two capacitors 10nF and 100nF
- 33uF/6,3V tantalum capacitor
- pins

Parts needed for LT17635:
- minireg pcb
- LT17635
- resistor 0ohm
- two capacitors 10nF and 100nF
- 33uF/6,3V tantalum capacitor
- pins

Regards,
Tibi
 

Attachments

  • 20140508_004.jpg
    20140508_004.jpg
    944.3 KB · Views: 944
1. first step is to prepare board for smd parts soldering.
Add solder only one one side of each component.

2. next solder 10nF capacitor. This is bypass capacitor. Theoretically this will lower output noise to value specified in datasheet 20uV.

3. solder 33K and 10K resistors as per third picture.

4. reverse pcb and solder 100nF. Add some more solder, as over this 33uF tantalum will be added.

5. solder LT1763 chip

6. last step is to solder 33uF tantalum cap. See below why.

Regards,
Tibi
 

Attachments

  • 20140508_011.jpg
    20140508_011.jpg
    756.3 KB · Views: 475
  • 20140508_008.jpg
    20140508_008.jpg
    729.3 KB · Views: 419
  • 20140508_007.jpg
    20140508_007.jpg
    620 KB · Views: 463
  • 20140508_006.jpg
    20140508_006.jpg
    412.7 KB · Views: 514
  • 20140508_005.jpg
    20140508_005.jpg
    843.7 KB · Views: 764
At this stage, if you measure output regulator with a voltmeter, you get a nice and steady 5.2V
However, in datasheet is mentioned that LT1763 is stable only with an minimum 3.3uF capacitor.
Well this is not the case (see pictures), even with a 3.3uF tantalum cap, you still get oscillations at high frequencies.
With 10uF I get a straight clean line. So any cap above 10uF will do the job. I had a bunch of tantalum 33uF so this is the value I used.

Regards,
Tibi

PS. In below pictures vertical scale is 5mV/div. output regulator noise with 3.3uF cap.
 

Attachments

  • 20140508_012.jpg
    20140508_012.jpg
    882.6 KB · Views: 559
  • 20140508_013.jpg
    20140508_013.jpg
    880.5 KB · Views: 363
Last edited by a moderator:
Here are both regulator types.

Left is the one with LT17635 (fixed 5V output).
Right is the one with LT1763 (adjustable output)

The difference is that on fixed 5V output you do not mount 10K resistor and 33K must be replaced with 0ohm.

Regards,
Tibi
 

Attachments

  • 20140508_015.jpg
    20140508_015.jpg
    435.4 KB · Views: 1,215
A very important observation is do not mix fixed with adjustable regulators.
For proper operation, LC78601R need to have same voltage, or very close, on all power pins.
With 33K and 10K, adjustable version will output 5.2V and in operation this will drop to ~5.13V, while on fixed you get 5V and ~4.9V in operation.

So, take care, do not mix them.

Regards,
Tibi
 
Hi Tibi.

Regarding the tantalums, electrolythics and others.
Reading the bom, occational words and looking at different pictures of where they should go is quite impossible. In most pics there are two green electrolyts. I have one as C28 is missing 220uF if i remember right. In the pics there are no 10uF elecs, I got 5 or 6 in the kit. Which tantalums can be replaced with these as I am missing tantals to fill the board.

Please elaborate on these please.

Regards