I am planning to use 10" woofers in "open baffle" boxes for logistical reasons: they need to fit under a pair of electrostatic speakers and Madisound offers a really nice open back box for 10" drivers for the Lx mini. I'm using a First Watt B5 crossover, so equalization won't be a problem. What are the trade offs of going to a smaller woofer like this compared to the 15" woofers often used in open baffles? They seem to be inefficient and expensive for one thing. The drivers out there have large motors and stiff cones; do they have lower distortion? I'm kinda committed to the small woofer route, but I'd like to understand what I'm getting myself in to all the same.

Next, which one? The obvious choice seems to be the Seas L26RO4Y designed for the Lx mini+2. They're spendy. I'm wondering about some of the cheaper options: ae speakers dipole 10, css sdx 10, and the Dayton UM10-22. At $180 a driver, the Dayton is a lot less than the others.

Continuously considering my options in my small townhouse living room. As the build is beginning to finalize I’m still going back and forth about the front mains. As of currently I have two bookshelves on shelves in the corners, the one on the right has the woofer (80hz to 300hz) slightly blocked by the loveseat and the whole sidewall being absorbed along most of the frequency spectrum. The left has the solid floor and wall free to reflect. In this configuration I’m thinking about an ottoman and fiberglass wall absorber to try to mimic the loveseats influence on the right speaker. Dsp is available to align path lengths and smooth peaks. Bookshelves are Anarchy 5.5’s and TB bamboo 3’s, fullrangers mostly for the tighter directivity considering the boundary challenges.

Another option is these tiny bookshelves with Dayton Rs100’s and now ND28’s but potentially swapping in the Peerless XT25’s for the tightening directivity. These will closely match the center channel with two RS100’s and DC28f large format tweeter in timbre and exactly match the low end roll off for a ~100hz subwoofer integration, subwoofer on bottom tv shelf. But, of course, the stereo triangle will become acute, around 20* from the listening position. I may place a 1“ absorber over the top of the shelf, below each speaker here while setting the lcr’s further back to have midrange absorption to about 45*, I realize 1” fiberglass is a compromise. Aside from the narrow imaging, which may make movies better seem to confine the sound to the screen size, the distance to the side walls will be quite different. Absorption on the left wall and behind the entertainment center is a definite option so the only major reflections will be the ceiling which will be much further and uniform. Remembering the LCR’s will be sitting on absorption and the tweeters will be getting directional around 4-5khz.

I know the sound quality suffers but I watch a good amount of my music on utube so maybe the tight LCR arrangement will more confine the image to match the screen. Again I have full dsp capabilities to combat the things that are realistic in each layout scheme. I’m equally partial to the larger and smaller bookshelves for different reasons.

When it comes to cooling things like transistors or chip amps, is using heat pipes or vapor chambers (while a little overkill I admit) an option? The only issue I could think of would be the noise from the liquid boiling inside them, but I'm not sure so I figured I would ask.

I am going to be building the Seas Thor kit soon but have a few questions which I would like clarified

1. In the AudioXpress article I have noticed that in some places the woofers are refered to as W18EX units and in others they are refered to as W18E units. Which is it and why this discrepancy?

2. What are thoughts on cabinet wall thickness? The standard design documents recomend +- 18mm for all sides except the front - which recomends +- 25mm. What differences are likely to be noticed with thicker / thinner wood? What is the maximum thickness one would go for, there must be a diminishing returns rule applied to this.

i hope this becomes a sticky....

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...r-amplifier-book.171159/page-537#post-7513273

Found a bunch of RCA 40250 power NPNs in cute TO66 package.
These hometaxials have low fT ~1MHz, any use for audio other than PSU?
Headamp maybe? I haven't found any amp schematics using these.

Two days ago I was reviewing, again, the manual of the new IcePower 1200AS2 class D module and I was struck by this graph, where the phase shift is almost 70º at 20 kHz!


Hypex NC500 only says:

Output coil inductance: 10 uH Effective output inductance ithis number divided by loop gain.

Click to expand...

Is it usual in this type of amplification? Taking into account that the phase also varies -except specific filters- in the speakers, how does it affect sound at high frequencies?

KEF LS50


KEF Q100

They are used on test instruments and I can't find them anywhere.

Looking for two JA-05A7 tweeter to Yamaha AST-S1 speakers.

I'm looking for the current source that BH used for the seduction preamp. I think it used a 2N2907 and a MJE350 with several resistors and a low noise LED. Anyone have a schematic, parts list, or something similar I can try?

Hello, I want to know more about the advantages of neodymium mid-ranges over ferrite mid-ranges.

As far as I know: neodymium speakers have the advantages of having a greater magnetic flux and less weight. This can provide the advantages of: greater energy handling, greater portability, higher SPL levels, etc.

But, it contains some disadvantage. Being them: Lower heat resistance (depending on the level of manufacturing quality), Higher cost, etc.

I'm currently thinking about making modifications to the magnetic system of my mid-basses, I'm thinking about making a mixed combination of neodymium and ferrite, but I still need more information about it and what are the advantages and disadvantages of doing so.

I'm looking for a pair of the 'tea-bag' M2 boards, blank, or partially built is fine. If you have the Edcor Autoformers and Mu-Metal shields then even better.

thanks

Hi All

Can we start a list??

Looking for CD players that have a very specific feature - a separate servo / control board and Audio board. By separate I mean that the audio / DAC section is separate from the 'making it work' side.

I've looked at datasheets and service manuals galore now, mostly focussing on Sony Mech's as that was what was in the player I want to upgrade.

So far I have ONLY two candidates 🙁
Teac - CD-5 (SAA7350GP – SM5840AP and KSS210A)
AIWA - XC-950 (SAA7350GP – SM5840DS and KSS210)

The Teac I know all about as I bought it already 🙂 But it seems to be the only player they made that way - despite the fact there are lots of unused parts on the control and audio Boards (for balanced OP), I can't immediately find another TEAC that has the same separation of church and state.

Can anyone add to that list? Absolutely not Limited to Sony transports at all. Just looking for players where the control can be got out of the way and the fun can begin.

Andy

Edit Aug 11, 2020: annotated BOM in MS Excel format here.

Announcements & Updates: I have been getting a lot of reports of builders experiencing sparks with connecting the power supply or melting the power switch at first turn on. Please make sure your MOSFETs have an insulator pad and insulator washer/bushing around the screw head. Check for no continuity between the tab(pin 2) of MOSFET and GND of board before startup. Also make sure polarity of your power supply input is correct. Positive goes to pin next to JST power switch jack.


This is a spin-off from the PCA (Pocket Class A) amp. It’s the same topology but I wanted a separate thread to discuss the technical aspects which are different. This amp is a joint effort between myself, BabyDontHertzMe (BDHM), and JPS64 whom both did a fantastic layout for the PCB. The DCA is designed for through hole components with lots of room for capacitor rolling options, a built in capacitance multiplier and CRCRC power supply section. There are 3 ground planes (PSU,Left, Right) that come together at a star topology. The board has almost identical high current traces on both sides that are joined with thousands of vias for a true low impedance path. Nominal design is for 20v Vcc, 125mA bias current and can be pushed as high as 25v Vcc for driving low impedance cans. Typical performance is 0.015%THD all H2 and a little H3 for 1vpp into 42ohm load. Can drive 42ohms as high as 544mW without clipping. Sound is powerful, and being zero global feedback, has an impressively wide and accurate soundstage. The signature is engaging and natural with no hint of fatigue. Tested with DT880-250, OB-1’s, and HE-400i. All sound fantastic and can get louder than you can handle comfortably without strain. In summary, it’s an easy to build amp and and designed for the DIYer who likes to tweak. The nice low noise PSU built in simplifies the power supply logistics.

Schematic of Production Board:


Actual PCB:


Stuffing Guide:


Please note that polarity of 4 jacks on front from left to right is +ve -ve / -ve +ve / +ve -ve / -ve +ve

Due to mirror symmetry.

Built up Amp:


Rear View


Measurements:
20.2v Vcc and 125mA bias


21.3v Vcc and 0.0066% THD


Power Measurement Test into 42ohm load:


Corresponding O-scope shot:


I was able to get 10.5vpp without clipping for 544mW into 42ohms.

BOM:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...class-a-dca-headphone-amp.322638/post-7509042

I have been looking at the mullard EL34 datasheet and I was very suprised about what I have found. Well I always knew it was there but I actually wonder, has anyone gone as far as trying this out ?

Fixed Bias
Ua 800V
Ra-a 11k
Pout 100W!!!

I dont know what kind of maniac would do this. Some guy at the mullard test lab has gone bonkers probably 😀
Regardless it would be fun to see someone actually try it. It seems unreallistically insane. Also I would really hesitate to trust any socket at those voltages. You end up with essentially double the anode voltage on either side and that puts to the test any octal socket in these conditions.

If this could safely pull off 100W in a single pair would be interesting to see what kind of numbers it could pull off as in a HiFi circuit.

Heres the datasheet.
Operating conditions for two valves in push pull on page 3.
http://www.r-type.org/pdfs/el34.pdf

Hi,

I would just like to confirm if FDA24n50 is a safe replacement for IRFP460LC?

AMP is a Groundzero 10K GZPA 1.10000SPL with the dwm4070nv2_v10 driver board. This amp lost all 24 output fets and driver ICs and I am really considering this replacement if it is safe? the FDA24n50 seems a bit lighter to drive.


It seems like the IRFP460LC is the 500V version of the IRFP360LC.
While the FDA24n50 is the 500V version of the FDA24n40
and I have been replacing IRFP360LC with FDA24n50 batches without problems.

Please advise

Looking for a pair of Sony 2SK60 of any rank. I will be responsible for shipping. Thank you.

I am selling a matched Toshiba J313/K2013 octet sourced from Prakit. Perfect for 2xBA3 or balanced BA3. N/P’s respectively are matched within 0V01, and between N/P’s within approx 0V05. These are in very scarce supply and I would say they are a finding.

Asking what I paid myself, which is 100$ plus shipping.

Pics to come.

New to power supply design and have what might be a dumb question...

According to the 5AR4 datasheet, it appears that the maximum AC voltage per plate could be as high 550V or even 600V depending on the DC output current per plate. I've read in several places on several different forums that the max AC voltage of a 5AR4 is 450V. Am I reading the datasheet wrong?

Thanks!

Good afternoon,

It is time for assembly, everything is rounded, cut, angled and drilled on the tritrix TL pieces. I do need to figure out a location for mounting the crossover. I was wondering if a crossover inside the TL was a problem. The 3 options I see are the back plate, the bottom angled waveguide, or outside under the bottom between a vented DIY base? I believe most people use the back angled waveguide at the bottom. Maybe it would be better on the front angled waveguide (left side in the drawing)?

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Hey guys. I have a problem with the control cam on my LX3 jumping beyond the pin (which I think is the record trigger). As detailed in the pics.

My question is, how can I stop the cam jumping from position A to B as shown in the pics attached.

Any help much appreciated.

Just wondering if there is a Canare RCAP crimp connector that would work with the Belden 8402 for interconnect cables?

I have used a crimp connector on the 1855A with success, but not sure if the 8402 would work with its twisted pair and the shield?

Thanks!!

I've been designing this triple output stage with 3 goals:

• It needs no thermal sensing element on the heatsink, for ease of construction and reliability.
• It works with easily obtained outputs, even slowpokes like the MJ21195/6. (I have a heatsink that takes TO-3s and I'd rather not modify it, for ease of construction.)
• The complete amp makes inaudible distortion at all listening levels of course 🙂

It's similar to a CFP-EF output stage, except the feedback to the predriver encompasses the output transistor.


UPDATE Sep. 2021: The latest version is in comment #14. The original version was probably not great, but we'll leave it here anyway.


Only the predrivers need thermal compensation. The bias spreader uses two transistors, so each predriver can be thermally coupled to one of the bias spreader transistors.


C1 and C5 are frequency compensation caps. I set them where a 100kHz square wave looked the cleanest.

D1-D4 are baker clamps to keep the drivers out of saturation.

Superficially it looks like this design should be amenable to a "speed up" capacitor of 1uF across the bases of the outputs. I didn't have luck adding one; it tended to charge up during large signal outputs and leave the outputs temporarily over-biased.

The inductors here are supposed to model parasitics. The 0.001 ohm resistors are "Spice ammeters" so ignore those. Caveat simulator: I haven't built this yet.

Please critique this. Has it been done before? Surely nothing's really new under the sun.

For sale two nice iron inductors 106mh 4a.
Put them on kitchen scale it was overload, max is 3 kilo, I guess 4 kilo each.
Sold as pair.
Asking 160 euro for the pair.

I recall some time ago reading about a midbass sub designed/ intended to give things like gunshots etc more punch in a home theater settings. it did not replace, but supplemented a regular subwoofer and the mains.
Is this a "bad" concept? I mostly read suggestions to get multiple identical subs- but my goal is not to get more super deep bass. BTW mains are magnepan 1.6 so they may benefit from this concept more than non-planars, IDK. Sub is sealed Rythmik 15.

I should add I have a pro level DSP XO so I could cross this into the lcr at 100hz and then pass off to the sub at 50 hz or whatever.

Thanks.

Two large intertechnik inductors up for sale.

Technical data​

• L/mH: 22.00
• R/Ohm: 0.37
• CU/mm: 2.00
• L-Tol./%: 5.00
• D/mm: 130.00
• d1/mm: 5.50
• Link to items https://www.intertechnik.com/shop/i...inductors/ite-fe13022020,583193,en,75,1158279
• EU only
• Ps they are heavy guess 5 kilo each.
• Asking 250 euro for the pair, price in shop 442 euro, wires are not shortened, only tested never really used

This will be another VersaBox build like that of Drottnar, Missing Link, Monoculus, etc...

Finally got some retesting done, as well as some quasi-measurements. I also posted the SIG180-4 results in the SIG180-4 thread. These are with the pole-vent film removed this time.

I measured the T/S with the film off of the pole this time, so those are truly valid. Those specs did not change that much from the previous.

I also measured the woofers in a very holey box with lots of fill, surface mounted, sitting on the floor facing up. This is not quite ground plane being the box was against the 'wall', and the mic was about 30" from the woofer on axis in the leaky box. It is also not free field. This means the baffle step is partially compensated for in the measurements. I see the HD as being roughly -40dB, even if 3rd order dominant in the region below 2kHz.

The AMTs were measured with a series 27uF cap at about a meter on axis distance, with damping surrounding the frame, to get a quasi-IB measurement set. This means that baffle step has as a majority not been removed from the FR measurements like an in-box measurement would be. However, these are linkely not to be seen as in-wall or IB completely, as losses are still likely. I took HD measurements as well, and it really seems to be well behaved with second order being dominant but at a respectable -40dB from reference down to 2k easily.

I think these Dayton Signature components will mate rather nicely together, but time will tell....

I want to make some turntable mat, do you have any material recommendations for me?
Currently I can think of copper, aluminum alloy, stainless steel, carbon fiber, and acrylic.
Are there other materials with better shock absorption effects?

Yes I did a search.
I got a cryptic message from a cryptic friend You need to get into SDR.

1. I want to measure EMI / EFI esp pertaining to transformers. Some of my junk yard transformers sound better than others. This is mostly down to the enclosure. They wrap the complete transformer in copper. How thick should the copper sheet be to work. Can an SDR tell me anything about the noise a transformer makes ?. And how well my insulation has helped. Copper sheets are priced on thickness so if a .25mm thick sheet works I don't need to bother about buying .5 or 1mm.

2. As always on a tight budget. Given what Im trying to achieve. What would be cheapest / lowest level SDR setup I could get away with. Ive heard stuff like 10$ USB dongles.

3. In what other way can SDR help us build and tune better Audio gear.
Christmas is when kids and friends return to india so thinking of getting a basic sdr setup down. But I have to justify its use as a tool.

Scan Speak tweeters D2004/6020, 1pair.
Not soldered, one was measured.
170Eur for a pair

I prefere shipment to EU only.

PayPal or bank wire
Petr.kocourek@gmail.com

Hi,

First of all I have to say I am a reaaaal beginner at fixing electronics and especially amplifiers.

I recently got myself a Pioneer amplifier which is locked in protection mode.
I checked all of the big Mosfets and they seemed good.
I found 1 thing that was weird for me. I found 2 diodes which seemed to be shorted -MBRF20200CT and MBRF20200CTR. I pulled them off the board, but when tested off board they were fine. So a question popped my mind. Are these point supposed to be shorted together?

I found out these points end up in the transormer:


Are all of these supposed to be shorted together?
What else should I look for?

The amp shows blue light like a millisecond and goes to protect right away.

Ok first of I have spent days searching for this info.
Not finding anything Im asking the question.
Im looking for music that covers all freq from 30Hz to 20Khz.
Or even if its split into parts like Music for Bass testing. Music for Mids and music for highs.
The best bet would be to have a track that covers everything from Freq range to stage separation.
I like to listen to music with RTA s/w running on the laptop or phone. With peak hold. And at the end of the song with a glance I can see what freq hit what DB. And how swapping out a driver in the equation impacts the RTA results.
So a CD does a better job from 4K to 10K. But falls flat on its face after that. A silk dome tweeter does a better job from 8K to 20K just examples of what Im trying to figure out.
Or just what is your fav music you use when testing and why.

Hi Everyone

Need help find alternative for below two parts.

I am using APCH15BK power conditioner for voltage regulation and surge protection. Sadly, some components burned out. Relay got burned over time due to external heat from Varistors, yesterday when I plugged computer PSU into the socket, Varistors started burning and turned to ashes. I believe their function is to protect from surges.

1. Relay
Part number : 875B-1AH-F-C 12V DC (17A 250VAC, 20A 125VAC)
Images : Login to view embedded media Datasheet : https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/378/875b-347335.pdf

2. Varistors
GNR 20D241K
Close but not thermally protected : https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/652-MOV-20D241K
Thermally protected but some difference in energy rating : https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/576-TMOV20RP150M
I found similar on mouser, but I am looking for thermally fused ones so they don't catch on fire or burn down my house.

Thank you

Hi Folks,

while I am trying to get to the bottom of a slight malfunction that my Flamma FS06 amp modeler pedal is displaying (in another thread), I began to wonder if in my noob naivete I even use such a pedal correctly? I know that whatever sounds good is correct, and Flamma still gives me the best tone so far, I feel like I am not using its full potential judging by some glowing reviews I saw.

It is supposed to model a few popular amp models, both clean and dirtly channels for each, and it has a built-in cab sim. So I assumed I just plug the guitar into its input, plug its output into the mixer, and that's it. And it works reasonably ok but the sound still sounds kinda thin no matter what I do. Even with distorted channels, and some of these models are really distorted, I can get a lot of noise but nothing quite like punchy power chords or soaring gilmoury tone.

It may very well be my other components, which are nothing fancy.

But I was thinking that, if this is really an amp simulator, shouldn't I have something like a tube screamer before it? What is a standard way to use a pedal like this?

Thanks!

Hi everyone, I'm repairing a taramps hd3000 compact, the version with irs2092 as driver.
I will have repaired about twenty of them during my career and if memory serves me correctly, I always had the feeling that these sounded really soft, while the old version (the one with IR2010S as driver) sounded very loud already with a low input signal, so much so that you have to be careful with the gain potentiometer.
I've checked everything, absolutely everything, but there's nothing wrong.
The amplifier works perfectly, it draws the right current, it has no background noise, the voltages are right, it just doesn't sound much.
Has anyone noticed anything similar on this model?

Partially built boards
Just needs IRFP outputs
Hand matched parts
Mtn View inputs were built, have norwood and austin boards
I already built this amp, these are spare boards and built by a 40yr veteran
Sold!!!

And here 41 capacitors.
Nos diameter 35 height 50mm pitch 10mm.
Take all 80 euro.
As you can see my cat really wants that space for himself.

sold

And here are 45 now capacitors, all stored indoors.
80v 1500uf.
35mm diameter height 20mm pitch 10mm
Take all 45 euro
I dont have any means of checking the properly, I include a photo with fluke capacitor test, I have ordered a hantek 1833c but it is still in shipment somewhere.
I tried the bigger capacitors but it gave up, unable to do reading. It's a poor function in the fluke

Here are 55 nos capacitors snapin. Kmh series 105
Diameter is 35 height is 25 pitch 10mm.
Always kept dry and indoors in my drawer
Take all 60 euro

https://www.supravox.fr/en/products/copie-de-400-2000-exc-haut-parleur-de-grave

Two nice pairs for sale 32ooo NKr for both pairs

Hey,
I would like to monitor and display real time data such as bias, filament voltage, hours of operation and other parameters from my tube amp. I have seen a picture of this done on a tube amp but there is real useful information other than pics. Also found some info on data logger but it doesn't seem to be applicable. I am not really sure where to look. Has anyone done this or have any pointers on how to do it?
thanks!

Looking for a good bluetooth dac that will work as a pre amp and bluetooth receiver.
Was thinking of the topping E50 as recommended by Aditya but dont think it has bluetooth.

Hello everyone,

I have a pair of 30 year old technics SB-CS65 speakers, and only the subwoofers are working properly. The mid and high range are almost gone.

I tried both the 4 inch mid range driver and the 3 inch tweeter with a direct connection to the amp, at a low volume, and the sound is very low, similar to when they were connected to the crossover.

The speakers are rated 60w / 8 ohm.

The woofer shows 7ohm, the mid range shows 4 ohm and I have no idea about the tweeter impedance.

I need help deciding on what kind of not-too-expensive 4 ohm 4 inch mid range I should get, and also about 3 inch the tweeter impedance and power rating, as they seem to be connected in paralell to the crossover high frequency side.

Thank you for all the advice you might want to give.

Daniel

Hello together,
I`ve had the opportunity to a get my hands on an may be 40 years old KD 5070.
It runs. Plate is spinning
Automatic mode dosn`t work at first time, some parts inside was stiff because they didnt move the last 10-20 Years.
Moving manually helped i little bit, now all is working.
Next i will test the output, to ensure the cartridge is working.

Have someone the same turntable and made a fresh up?
Which points are important? what is useful to do?
Would you change some parts if everything is working? Capacitors may be?

Do someone have the service manual drawings / Schematics / assembly instructions?
I have only found the owners manual, but this will not help me that much.

I have a to3 tunnel heatsink.
I have isolation for it so all individual heatsink are galvanicly isolated.
Fan size 120mm.
Measurements on demand.
Asking 120 euro.

After abandoning a project, I have two power supply boards left, equipped as follows:

The board kit include:

• one complete power DC board equipped with good quality 24pc - 2200uF / 35Vdc capacitors (totally 52800uF on both rails)
• optional is possible to put on board 1000uF / 63 Vdc capacitors

Note: NO power transformer, NO soft start function

Price for one complete board kit is 50 Euro+15 Euro shipping to EU. I am sending to EU only.

For more details, please send me PM.

Hello,

We often talk here and elswhere about the properties of metal domes, and for the classic round shape, most of the time the discussion comes about the break up position and the internal damping of the said material (Be, Aluminum, Magnesium, ceramic, allows of those, etc)

I would like to focus on the often seen aluminium and magnesium allows as few are making 100% Magnesium dome tweeters (Fostex, Audax, ?)

So Magnesium is circa 1/3 harder at iso weigth than aluminum, i.e. 1/3 ligther at iso hardness.

Most of the time, I bet diferences are more due to the spl magnitude of those tweeters, the break up area relative to the materials we listen to, especially if non oversampling source and materials (16/44 with NOS digital source).

What about the internal damping many claim to be the force of the best materials like the Beyrilium and for the topic of the discussion : the magnesium ?

Aluminum is said to have good internal damping if I am not wrong at iso density vs some other metals used in tweeters like the Titanium or ceramic for instance, and our talked magnesium. I.e. aluminium is "softer" at iso mass which is not so bad but the early break-up - often circa 25k hz- !

Looking at the datasheets of some dome tweeters having pure magnesium or allows mixed with alumen, I am wondering "WTF" about those mixes ?! Indeed, most of the time the Mms is not ligther when Magnesium is entering in the comp of the tweeter domes : we often have the same weigth in the datasheets : 0.3 g to 0.4 g. the 0.4 g being sometimes the one with said ligth allow with the said Mg (or Be...).

Is that pure marketing ? Or does the Magnesium adds "something" ? More hardness at iso weigth (which is maining also maybe more early break-ups ?)
Also as Magnesium is harder, doees it mean less damping, i.e. more harsh sound ? All these things are not so clear to me !

I have the temptation to say that the most importat thing is the spl magnitude shape arriving at listening position. But voilà, micro details or details at low spl level are involved in the discussions soon ?! And because of that I am tempted to focus on hard dome tweeter VS soft domes, as the decay of notes in acoustic intruments is importat for me! Ah, so I imagine we talk about both of waterfall decay and ... what ? hard domes ... hardness = micro details? Is it clear for you ????

Not saying in the passive crossovers I experienced tons of way to make sound a hard dome different with the caps receips that color the sound more or less but anyway adds (it is a default, of course) to the sound ! I can make the Stan Getz saxo wood anch sounding like I want just playing with caps, for instance !

Is there some better voodoo you heard with Magnesium vs Aluminum ? Should I mortgage for Be by snobism or what ? Forget it and buy a good informativ soft dome tweeter à l like the 3004/66000 ?

Throw it all and focus on the magnitude off axis shape in the listening room by hundred mic measurements and sims with a tweeter you already have on hands? Or definitly focus first on the dome material choice then make your life after on the dev side of the filter ?

Is anybody here aware of a USB to I2S converter that is capable of doing up to 32bit/1536k?

Great conditions with just a very negligible mark as per picture

These are 5k push pull with permalloy cores. Not an easy find

1600€ + shipping from Italy

I'm building a DAC and I'm looking for some advice on power supplies. I noticed that some designs focus on using very low noise LDOs. Is there really a noticeable difference vs using jellybean LDOs with proper decoupling? Which characteristic of LDOs is more important (RMS noise, PSRR etc)?

Hi guys. Need this power supply mosfet however I can't find any online. Been discontinued by the looks.
For a taramps smart 8k bass.

Problem is I only need 1 (or 6 to replace the entire bank on the transformer. (24 total)

I'd obviously like to just replace 6 in the bank rather than all 24 to an equivalent

I don't trust aliexpress. Or ebay

Anyone have a place to get them or have 6 I can buy off u.

Will need to be shipped to Australia

Thanks 🤞

Any builders of the Troels Gravesen Faital 3WC - 12? Impressions on how the build went and the sound after they were completed?

I have been designing a very small multi entry horn to replace a 10" reflex portable speaker I built a few years ago.

My main goals have been to get the same low end extension but in a smaller size and not necessarily as loud using drivers I mostly already own.

The box is currently 30.4cm x 26.7cm x 34.1cm but I might make it a bit bigger to get a bit lower

The drivers I am using are:

Faital Pro 6fe100
Faital Pro 3fe25
Faital Pro HF100

I used ATH for the initial horn flare

To power it I am going to use The Sure Electronics Jab5 amplifier which has 4 channels so 2 for the bass drivers, 1 for the mid drivers and 1 for the compression driver with a built in DSP





Still need to add bolt holes and something to attach it to the box but it will print in two pieces. Each piece is currently a 20 hour print at 0.2 layer height.

I am gonna look at getting it finished and printed this week if I decide I am happy with the sims haha






This is the speaker I am looking at replacing

@happyhappy

Bryan,

My last email to you keeps bouncing… the one about multiway miniOnken.

Side question, have you ever seen a two way system in an Onken enclosure?

Click to expand...

None at all. We have done a few. I have a set i need to finish assembling downstairs.





dave

Note: miniOnkens are not “officially” Onkens, they only borrow the slot vents down the sides.

Hey guys

Years ago when I was really into home theater I bought this RCF 21" woofer and had it in a massive ported box under a workbench in my parents basement. I moved into an apartment about 5 years ago and this driver has been sitting in storage in an ocean container behind my shop ever since.

I just bought a 2500 square foot house where I can now do whatever I want so it's time to bring all the old gear out of storage. I was planning to pair this in some way with my Martin Logan Aerius I speakers. I'm not moved in until December 17th so I don't have room dimensions and I'm not even sure where I'll be putting everything.

I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on how I could make the most of this driver? I would power it with Behringer EPX2800 and use my Dayton 4X8 DSP to set the crossovers. Or should I just scrap the idea entirely and go another route? I'm pretty open to any and all ideas.

Hello everyone! I am in Houston TX and I have 4 perfect condition NSW6021 drivers for sale, two are unused (I did break them in through free-air testing to make sure they operated correctly though), and the other two are in cabinets (one sealed 4cu ft, one VERY big ported box, approx 18 cu ft I believe, tuned to 19hz or 27hz depending on if you block one port) and have never been powered with more than an NX6000. The NX6000 has a true RMS wattage of 2,000 and a true peak wattage of 2,500. So considering the fact that I wasn't riding the limiter of the amp, that means the two drivers that had power sent to them only ever saw around 1000 RMS and 2000 peak, so I operated well below their ratings of 2500 RMS and 5000 Peak respectively. I'll be selling the unused/new drivers first.

The best way to contact me is on discord but I will also respond here, it will just be delayed. I would prefer local pickup but I can PROBABLY work out a shipping deal, I have the original heavy-duty shipping boxes so I'm not afraid to ship them, and if you happen to order all 4, I might just drive them straight to you myself if you're not too far. If we're doing digital payment methods, I accept Zelle, otherwise cash is king.


My discord username is: classicality and this is BY FAR the best way to contact me



Current pricing is $950 AFTER TAX (over $300 discount from new), and there is no pricing distinction between any of the drivers, they're all perfect, but I will ship out the unused/new ones first. I'll add some pictures later on Wednesday, but there's really not much to see, they're perfect.

Also if you're local I can build cabinets too (for a price) in case you want to use the drivers immediately, I'm not a super high tier professional like a cabinet shop, but I'm also not an idiot. My cab's function well.



If this is in the wrong place on the forum please tell me where (or if) I can post this, thank you!

Back by popular demand! Please note that it can take a few months to get everything. Supply chain issues have made it take longer. Some have wanted different parts for that reason but the popular opinion still remains on preferring the very nice quality ones originally included.

The Big #10!

5x20mm fuse option added for Euro buyers

So over the years people have asked about the old version, made by someone else.

It's probably time for an updated one. This one is a bit different. You may notice it does not have following capacitors after the choke. I have tried both ways, and my preference is without the following X2 capacitors. Also the capacitors prior to the choke are not varied in size because overall capacitance is more important - and they won't randomly resonate with each other.

The other major change is the addition of bypass resistors for the chokes. These don't ruin the filtration, but they do a good job of quieting the chokes that can get excited by different combinations of things on the mains.

Click to expand...

View attachment 1043981

Gen1 w/comoco's


Here's how it is different in settling time from the original.


Here's a comparison between resonances.

*2oz copper PCB (1oz is standard)
*Weco 983ZD terminals, copper alloy and can accept 2 wires for daisy chain. These are also safer, particularly if you use solid core wire that otherwise likes to make cold solder joints you can't see.
*X2 rated capacitors for safety, 4x 0.47uf. They are alternated for CFC (capacitor field cancellation).
*Discharge resistor for X2 capacitors
Coilcraft Comoco choke w/fuse or Bourns 8120/8121-RC choke w/o fuse & 15/16A/20A() max sockets
*Fuse clips are beryllium copper 3AG & 5x20mm options
*120/230v operation (parts & pcb)
*Mounting holes are sized to work nicely with M3 screws and standoff kits
*Size: 2.25x4.25in

Click to expand...

The Weco 983ZD are preferred terminals, but not always available as individual sale. For this reason I'm going to include them in the price of PCB, so that I can meet min order requirements for them and save everyone the shipping.

Price: $14ea ($10 per filter board, $2 per Weco, 2 needed per board)

Shipping: $11 US, priority USPS box
$20 CAD
$22 General international padded envelope (prices may vary due to a crazy world)

If ordering over 4x boards there may be an additional $10, depending on destination.

Need 32 filter board commitments to order.

drkingweeb 2

voxxonline 3​

poolball69 10​

pcgab 4​

chiily 2​

dzoli 4​

yardbird 6​

Beeah 6
Yoaudio 2
Geoturbo 2

rickmcinnis 5​

Dave_MN 4​

rothay 4​

pinnocchio 3​

ZzerO 9
ElliotA 6

pedrop 4​

LongRanger 4​

wushuliu 6​

hybfish 2​

Garytr 4​

DiyFan 3

So not sure where I'm going with this. Lets start with that.

Bought a STAX DAC Talent (despite my misgivings about SPDIF) and it is rather nice although old at this point

As is my S.O.P. with 30yr old gear, I've swapped out electrolytics. All THREE of them 😀. In this case with "shiny" Nichicon ones. To be rewarded with a little red LED coming on in the power supply section (AKA I didn't notice it before) I assume this is good.

So case off, the chipset is mainly:

• YM3623B
• SM5803AP
• V-12M288
• PCM63P K 😍
• AD845

Much opto-isolated glamour! with pictures

I have questions though... Not least of which is normal/direct !?! What does that even mean...

Information is hard to come by for this although I guess the money was spent on the digital rather than the analogue side 🙂 it works well.

Can this (semi) sensibly be updated. I know there is an 'upgrade' for the SM5803 to DF1700 - worthwhile??

I also have already the ability to swap PCM63's to PCM1704's But it seems completely unnecessary.

Andy

Hi All,

I have been building my guitar pedals using a mixture of polyester film caps for NF, N0G ceramics for PF, and Electrolytic for large UF (power filtering). I want to build guitar pedals and preamps for personal use that will last forever, and so am thinking about using MLCC when possible for larger UF values.

I see this MLCC offering from TDK on mouser that has 47UF with 25v rating.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/FG26X5R1E476MRT00?qs=vNwBHymccZ/EuAwGgXhUgQ==

I like this because I can buy in bulk without worrying about them expiring and they should basically last forever. I have heard ceramics are bad for audio path due to piezo, but am I correct to assume its okay for the large value power supply filtering with some smaller film caps thrown in as well?

Thank you!

Back in early 2020 I revamped my old Dynaco tube amps with the VTA mods from Tubes4Hifi, and wired them in a vertical bi-amp configuration using two stereo amps. The VTA mods and bi-amping took the system to another level, and I was pretty happy. After hearing the Magico S5 MkIIs at Convergent Audio, i started to think the bass didn't have quite the control and slam that it could.

Sometime in March 2023 the system got reconfigured again, but this time into a tube/solid state hybrid horizontal bi-amp setup. I see it as the best of both worlds. Each amp type doing what it does best. It helps that each driver of my 3-way speakers has it's own input, so are fairly conducive to bi-wiring, bi-amping, or tri-amping.

The twin stereo Dyna/VTA 70 tube amps got solid state rectifiers, are sporting new Tung Sol 7581A output tubes in triode, and are now run as single channel mono blocks, which still leaves me with the outstanding separation offered by vertical bi-amping. They're only powering the 5" midbass and tweeter now (which have a natural acoustic rolloff at about 80hz). The tube amps see an easier to drive 8 ohm load (vs 4 ohm) and lighter woofers...they sounded notably clearer immediately. (a pleasant unexpected side effect!)

The solid state amp is a vintage Kenwood KA-3500 integrated amp that only drives the main 8 inch woofers from 80hz down. (It also feeds the active subwoofer with a high level signal). A couple of months after experimenting with this setup, I added an active low pass crossover ~ 80hz, then followed up by bypassing the passive low pass crossover to the woofers a few weeks later. Yep, there's more bass control, more detail and slam, and it really lets the transmission line shine.

The signal from the preamp gets split between the tube amps and the SS integrated amp. This configuration treats the Lazarus preamplfier as a master volume for all the amps, while the integrated amp has it's own volume control for everything below 80hz. I can vary the output of the woofers and sub separately relative to each other, and relative to the tube amps that feed the midbass/tweeters. In addition, the active crossover has it's own gain settings, so there's lots of flexibility to dial in low frequencies however I want, and not impact the vocals of the midbass driver.

Some new copper inputs for the mids and tweeters, new Furutech OCC cables, and a new Hagerman phono stage round out 2023 as a successful year of fairly aggressive upgrades for relatively low cost. The system is all coming together nicely just in time to enjoy a wonderful Christmas music season. All in all the changes have resulted in easily audible improvements on multiple levels IMHO. Overall clarity is better, and bass is notably tighter and more dynamic, and provides the ability to fine tune bass output. Cost for used the integrated amp and active crossover were under $100 (way less than new tubes!). I'm extremely happy with this setup, and am glad that I went down this path.

Hello,
I am looking for a replacement 12" Bass Driver for a pair of Goodmans Goodwood Speakers I have just inherited.
If anyone has one or knows where i can get one from, that would be great.
I am in the UK.

Thank you

This is my first sub and I totally blew it! It did good service for almost 2 years, but I'd rather fix it then get a new one!

I took it out of the enclosure and the cone is good, its not cracked, and the "spider" seems good too, I finally came across this video
Login to view embedded media and it sounds exactly like how mine sounds.

So how do I do fix it? It's a very compact sub and when it was out of the enclosure there were no screws and I have no idea how I would take it apart. What parts would I need and how much would it cost to repair? Are there any guides for this kind of sub? Or at least for some other compact 10 inch sub?

Thank you diyaudio community

finished M2 Teabag boards for sale with matched 2sk1530 2sj201. I build two M2 pcb sets for balanced mode but only use single ended

Looking for a Sony RM-P2000 remote used with TA-E2000ESD

Hopefully this is the right forum for this but I am looking to build or buy a flat IEC power cable as I need to plug it into an outlet inside a cabinet and run it under the glass cabinet doors to my speaker's power supplies. I looked all around for a commercial solution but was unable to find anything but I assume someone has built something similar using bulk ribbon cable or something like that. Any tips or advice? Thanks in advance!

Hello.
I have this little nifty tube tester board, it can test a large variety of small signal types, all the classic audio tubes.
Its totally unasembled the only parts that I have for it is the preprogrammed atmel chip, the 20x4 lcd display, and the rotary encoder bourns
ECW1J-B24-BC0024L. All other parts are up to you.
I put here link to folder that contain all necessary info for assembly and use. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/18TcbD3Y83YUaoSefdYeP8lOa8BGxVGti/
I'm asking for 30 euro, that's the cost of pcb only
Last photo is of finished product.
Ps. Just turn the rotary encoder and choose between 99 programmed tube optimal values and press test, it's as easy as that. It's a proven concept.

I'm always happy to have someone verify my math.
I'm looking at an OPT for eight 8417 in parallel for 300 watts into 8 ohm secondary.
Primary impedance should be around 1000 ohms ??

Hi all! After building a couple headphone amps (Peter Millet's NuHybrid and an ACP+), an ACA, and an lxmini crossover, I think I am ready to tackle one of the FW or BA projects to power the full range tops on my lxminis (crossed at 700 Hz). Currently, my signal chain is either an Apple AirPort Express used as a streamer or Pioneer L-71 turntable, into an Emotiva PT-100 preamp, into the analog lxmini crossover, into an Elan 660 power amp (a 6 channel distribution amplifier running LM3886s), with 4 of the 6 channels bridged to provide about 100 watts to the woofers.

I am hoping to build something that can deliver 40 watts at 4 ohms to the Seas Prestige FU10RB H1600-04 4" Full Range drivers handling the mids and highs. Due to the fact these are 4 ohms, I believe that rules out the single ended options if I want to be able to play the system full volume. So I have been considering buiding an F5, F6, M2X, BA-2, or BA-3.

I have a spare quad of TSJ74 (Idss 6-8mA) that I ordered thining I had burned one out on the ACP+ (I had not), so it would be great to use them or 2 of them, but that might be tough to match.

I listen to a wide variety of source material including alternative country, 90s and 00s indie rock, 60s and 70s classic rock, punk, soul, hip-hop. I love a good drummer that can lift great artists to alltimers most of all (Janet Weiss and Sleater-Kinney, Topper Headon and The Clash, Levon Helm and The Band, Al Jackson Jr. with the Stax Rythym section, Roger Hawkins of the Swampers at FAME studios), so definetely looking for something that can resolve cymbals well.

Regarding distortion signatures, I have found that using the Millet NuHybrid into the ACA (with full range MarkAudio speakers) was too much 2nd harmonic. Complicated drum licks and guitar passages were too muddy. Feeding the ACA with the ACP+ is more to my taste, though at times there can still be a touch of muddiness at higher output volumes. This has me leaning towards buildign the F5 or BA-3 since I could adjust this some to my taste, but I'de love to hear what others recomend in this case.

@6L6 I have read that you use lxminis, so I'd especially curious about your thoughts here for a good fittign amplifier. Thank you all for your advice.

Anyone interested? I have documentation how to finish this fine DAC AYA II DS rev 0.221115
Fixed price 125 Euro

Complex chips included;
1x Q310 TDA1541A (supplied by me)
1x Q205 CS8414-CS (already supplied & soldered by Aurial)
1x Q208 74HC590D (already supplied & soldered by Aurial)
4x Q409-Q412 OPA861-ID (already supplied & soldered by Aurial)

Hello people,

I am looking for a service manual for a Vincent SV-233 amplifier (the one with the 3 inputs) and have already searched the whole internet.

But it seems that there is no such thing for Vincent Audio devices.

Or do any of you have information about a service manual for a Vincent SV-233 ?

I would be happy if there was something.

Greetings

Dirk

Hi all , wondering would anyone be able to help me troubleshoot this please ?

I have a sharp rp30 turntable and after the arm returns it's stops spinning as it should.
But 2 or 3 minutes later the motor will start spinning again even though the arm is returned . I first thought it was a faulty switch but replaced that and still the same .

Visually everything looks fine and nothing looks blown out inside .

Hi

i want to sort the APEX thread a bit.

here is my BOM for AA9MD, schematic, layout

btw...
i am not happy with this "Ultimate 100W audio"... thread because without search you find not so fast ....

edit:
Apex directory done by XRK (thanks)Apex directory

link for Transistors: (found during search at FH9, FX8 and FH9HVX) Transistors
and
here: VAS and driver transistors

Hello,

I have a Mark Levinson 436 that has a bad transformer on the AC board. I need a replacement transformer. So I am looking for a Mark Levinson 436 or 434 AC board with a working transformer.

If you have one that I could purchase please message me.

Thank you.

I’ve have an issue with one of my two Hypex Fusion FA123 amps
For clarity I have this amp connected to my left channel speaker.

Left channel amplifier


Right channel amplifier:


Returning to the left channel amp


Note: I've rebooted the computer, the software, and the amps numbers times.

I've contacted Hypex support, but won't likely hear back anything until next week.

Some questions:

Does any way exist to manually|mechanically reset the amp?
Can one replace the USB socket?

If the amp won't work any longer could I repurpose its parts (amplifier boards, DSP|DAC, power supply) by removing them from the plate and setting them into a Ghent chassis?

Thoughts and guidance appreciated.

- Andreas

Hi all!

It's my first timing posting here and would love some help/advice/guidance to get started.

Things started a few days ago when a friend of mine gave me his old LG 5.1 speakers. The DVD/amplifier broke and the speakers were sitting in his house for some months, and they are now mine. He doesn't have the DVD/amp anymore.

Now that I have the speakers and sub, I would love to put them to work in my living room, but I'd also love to assemble the amp on my own as a first project. I've searched a bit but have not found much info on how to build a 5.1 amp. besides some tutorials that are lacking some information.

This is a reference project that I liked, but I'd love to have some more input options, such as an optical one to use in my TV.

Here are the amp and speaker settings from the manual.

Thanks in advance 🙂

Hi can anyone give me advice on how to repair an Arcam a65+, The symptoms are, thump sound at turn on or off and very high DC offset of over 700mv in the right channel it plays fine for ten minutes and then switches off and comes back on and carries on playing. The left channel is fine.
If someone can give me advice on where I need to be looking that would be great. Thanks.

Triode 26 and 45 get lots of praise, and the cost is a bit less than tubes like 2A3 and 300B.
There are easier tubes to build with, like 6SN7 and EL84 etc. but I'd like to wind the mains x-former, filter choke and the OT x-former myself, so why not go the whole distance with the 26 and 45 while I'm at it.
And yes,-I have wound a mains x-former and OT for a Vox AC30 guitar amp with great success so I'm not completely green with such work so I know what to expect to some degree.
But the question is how does the 26 cope with driving a 45 in a SET configuration?
I like the idea of using only two stages. That's the beauty of tube amps,-they can be very simple and have a short signal path which I think is important.
Is this possible without implementing an interstage transformer or adding a whole bunch of circuits around the 26 stage?

Post removed because of severe safety issues.

Hi Guys,
I regret to say, but I have to sell my beloved mostly-DIY system, as I am moving to Canada from Poland on the beginning of next year. It gave me so much pleasure, but I can't take it with me across the ocean, unfortunately. I believe that there is quite small amount of people form Poland here, but who knows... maybe somebody is looking for something and is close enough to me. In most cases I can't ask more than components+chassis/cabinet cost for each component, so the prices are pretty reasonable in my opinion. To be honest, all these stuff should cost much-much more... but only thanks to the DIYaudio community, The Papa, Wayne, etc. who are willing to share their beautiful designs with us.
So, here is a list:
Turntable: 2900zł/ 675Euro Pioneer PL-30L II with upgraded tonearm wiring to Cardas from a cartridge to RCA connectors (replace shitty original built-in signal cables). Tonearm pipe is not detachable anymore;
Phono Pre: 2800zł/ 650Euro Lehmann Audio Black Cube SE II, all original, working perfectly;
Preamp/HPA: 2900zł/ 675Euro WHAMMY in custom chassis (3 inputs; 1 output), with Jantzen Audio SilverZ coupling capacitors, awesome Sparkos Labs SS3602 Dual;
Amp: 4800zł/ 1120Euro FirstWatt F6 clone, all original parts&chassis, quite Toroidy AUDIO transformer;
Speakers: 6500zł/ 1510Euro Troels Gravesen's Discovery 861 with Californian walnut veneer - wonderful speakers which pairs with F6 beautifully.
Total is 19900zł/ 4630Euro.

I also have Hana SL cartridge. Used carefully for ~200-300h, did't add it to the list as I can take it with me. But it could be sold as well.

Four 90x60cm grey rock-wool sound absorbers; 2 pairs of Neotech OCC copper RCA signal cables - GRATIS if somebody will be interested to buy a whole system.

DIY part was finished about a year ago, except WHAMMY - about 2 years ago. Everything worked beautiful with no issues. With no or almost no signes of use. I made it for myself with no intention to sell, but my situation has changed.

I don't think that shiping is possible. The only option is to pick up by yourself. I am located in Poznan, Poland. Some 3h ride from Berlin for example.

Send me a message if you are interested. Additional images could be sent upon a request.

Regards,
Nicolas