This is my first sub and I totally blew it! It did good service for almost 2 years, but I'd rather fix it then get a new one!
I took it out of the enclosure and the cone is good, its not cracked, and the "spider" seems good too, I finally came across this video
and it sounds exactly like how mine sounds.
So how do I do fix it? It's a very compact sub and when it was out of the enclosure there were no screws and I have no idea how I would take it apart. What parts would I need and how much would it cost to repair? Are there any guides for this kind of sub? Or at least for some other compact 10 inch sub?
Thank you diyaudio community
I took it out of the enclosure and the cone is good, its not cracked, and the "spider" seems good too, I finally came across this video
So how do I do fix it? It's a very compact sub and when it was out of the enclosure there were no screws and I have no idea how I would take it apart. What parts would I need and how much would it cost to repair? Are there any guides for this kind of sub? Or at least for some other compact 10 inch sub?
Thank you diyaudio community
I found this
which seems to be a good guide but I have no access to the tools required is there a more tooless way to do it?
Many times all you can do is to cut it apart and then replace the parts you had to cut. I don't watch videos so I don't know what's wrong with it but the following site has parts and videos to show you how to repair a lot of different types of speakers.
https://www.simplyspeakers.com
https://www.simplyspeakers.com
You recone the driver.
Since your voice coil is dragging, it will need to be replaced, which unfortunately usually requires cutting out the soft parts (cone surround and spider) so everything other than the magnet structure and basket are replaced.
Here is another good guide, and supplier of parts:
https://reconingspeakers.com/faq/reconing-faqs/how-to-diy-recone-with-unassembled-parts/
A generic aftermarket recone kit costs $65, tools, glue and epoxy not included:
https://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/rockford-fosgate-rfp1210-aftermarket-recone-kit/
EDIT- this is not the correct kit for your Rockford Fosgate R2S-1X10, but around what the parts cost if you can find them.
Reconing is a learned skill which may take more than one attempt to "get right", by the second try you often have spent more than an original replacement costs, but you have learned a new skill, priceless 😉
Last edited:
I've never heard of them Rockford selling one but contact them to see if they sell a recone kit. If you have to source the parts from a generic supplier, there's a good chance that it will change the sound/performance of the woofer.
You may not know until you get the coil out but the process can be simple or very difficult, depending on whether the coil welded itself (in part) to the inside of the gap or is simply slipping on the former.
What's the motivation for trying to repair instead of replace? Learning process? Budgetary?
You may not know until you get the coil out but the process can be simple or very difficult, depending on whether the coil welded itself (in part) to the inside of the gap or is simply slipping on the former.
What's the motivation for trying to repair instead of replace? Learning process? Budgetary?
Motivation to repair over replace is primarily budgetary, but generally whatever I can fix I'd rather fix than replace.
The second video I linked shows just taking the dust cap off to get access to the coil and replace that way, is that not possible with most subs? Just asking because if you can just do that idk why I'd have to cut out the cone surround and spider. Seems like a waste of otherwise perfectly good cone and spider.
Without seeing the way your exact woofer is assembled, I don' have any suggestions but it's not generally possible to replace the voice coil alone in a high-power woofer.
Why haven't you posted any photos (not video) of your woofer?
Why haven't you posted any photos (not video) of your woofer?
The coil is normally stuck to the cone during assembly.
Cutting it neatly enough to stick a new coil will take you half a day, not for unskiled people.
Shifting the magnet during assembly is possible if you go from the back, and those are stuck or riveted in place, difficult to remove cleanly.
Speakers are made and repaired here in my city, several shops offer a two day tunaround at about a quarter of new speaker price.
In your case, shipping may also be added, which could break the deal.
Best find another up for sale at a low price, on line / house cleaning sales / car junk yards, maybe a shop has one which was traded in during a system upgrade, which may be in good condition.
Cutting it neatly enough to stick a new coil will take you half a day, not for unskiled people.
Shifting the magnet during assembly is possible if you go from the back, and those are stuck or riveted in place, difficult to remove cleanly.
Speakers are made and repaired here in my city, several shops offer a two day tunaround at about a quarter of new speaker price.
In your case, shipping may also be added, which could break the deal.
Best find another up for sale at a low price, on line / house cleaning sales / car junk yards, maybe a shop has one which was traded in during a system upgrade, which may be in good condition.
When I was a student, more than 20 years ago, I repaired a lot of loudspeakers and the main way I did the repair was to replace the coil with one made by me by removing only the dust cap and carefully removing the remains from the original coil.
It is useful to insert some spongy paper into the magnetic gap so that dirt generated from cleaning the coil remains does not enter. The final cleaning of the place where the coil is glued was done with 2 - 3 different grain size of sandpaper.
take an xacto knife and cut the dustcap off, try to stay close to the cone with the blade so that you don't cut through the cone. Once you get it off check to see if the leads might have come unglued from the cone. You could also try a hair dryer starting on low, don't put it close to the dustcap or it will warp the cap, just take your time and carefully pry the cap away from the cone. I would replace it instead of recone because the parts will cost you almost as much as a new sub will and maybe you can even upgrade to the punch shallow sub. Reconing is simple and finding the parts are as simple as measuring what you take off and finding one's that match the same size to put back on, been doing it for years
Last edited: