I just went through the same decision and I opted to wait until Oct.2 shipping at DigiKey. My logic was simple. The Mean Well worked for my first build so I'll stick with it. Superstitious? Yes. Scientific and rational? No.
I'll let Mark talk for himself but it's been my observation that Mark doesn't recommend so much as he gives us options and wants us to learn how to make our own choices. He's taught me quite a bit. I'm not sure if he answered the "tell me what to do questions" he would really be helping us.
I'll let Mark talk for himself but it's been my observation that Mark doesn't recommend so much as he gives us options and wants us to learn how to make our own choices. He's taught me quite a bit. I'm not sure if he answered the "tell me what to do questions" he would really be helping us.
Pinnochio, have a look at post #136 in this thread and study the photographs. Maybe you will decide to send a message to that diyAudio member and compare notes.
Also, I recommend you train yourself to always ALWAYS check THIS website. After seeing those results, I checked with the Canadian Mouser website and it agrees; mouser.ca says there are 149 in stock.
Also, I recommend you train yourself to always ALWAYS check THIS website. After seeing those results, I checked with the Canadian Mouser website and it agrees; mouser.ca says there are 149 in stock.
Hi Audiobear,
The real difference I saw was line regulation and capacitive load that are different. I mean voltage input is different but way ok for my region. I’ll wait to see what Mark says about it. If those settings won’t impact the circuit them I’m really not worried. I just see that Meanwell offers very good specs for so little money.
All the best!
Do
The real difference I saw was line regulation and capacitive load that are different. I mean voltage input is different but way ok for my region. I’ll wait to see what Mark says about it. If those settings won’t impact the circuit them I’m really not worried. I just see that Meanwell offers very good specs for so little money.
All the best!
Do
Oops! Looks like I wrote while you were also posting! LOL
Weird, I checked last night and there was none... They must have received an order today! 🙂
Do
Weird, I checked last night and there was none... They must have received an order today! 🙂
Do
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IRM-02-5 AC/DC module
Just for future reference and as alternative. for AC/DC module I used mouser part number 919-RAC02-05SE/277 (RECOM same specifications, dimensions and pin placement as Mean Well) it is more expensive but for me it was still cheaper then to order from somewhere else and pay additional shiping costs.
Just for future reference and as alternative. for AC/DC module I used mouser part number 919-RAC02-05SE/277 (RECOM same specifications, dimensions and pin placement as Mean Well) it is more expensive but for me it was still cheaper then to order from somewhere else and pay additional shiping costs.
+1 for JLCPCB! Prices and service are hard to beat. I typically get boards within 10 days of submitting an order to the northeast US.
Hi,
I tested my PS today. First time the power is ON by flipping the switch, there was a delay with seems to be relay clicking, then I heard the relay click again and measured 120 Vac at P1D and P1N. Measured voltage at LED On-Off at 5.1 Vdc.
When I flip the switch back to OFF position, the voltage across P1D and P1N stays at 85 Vac. LED voltage 0.0 Vdc.
Any hint on how to troubleshoot? Thank you!
Abe
I tested my PS today. First time the power is ON by flipping the switch, there was a delay with seems to be relay clicking, then I heard the relay click again and measured 120 Vac at P1D and P1N. Measured voltage at LED On-Off at 5.1 Vdc.
When I flip the switch back to OFF position, the voltage across P1D and P1N stays at 85 Vac. LED voltage 0.0 Vdc.
Any hint on how to troubleshoot? Thank you!
Abe
Oops, forgot to add: When switch is open, "LED voltage 0.0Vdc for LED ON, and 5.1Vdc for LED Off".
Don't the philippines use 220V? If that is the case and you put jumper across 230V you should measure between P1D and P2N and get 220V reading.
If you live in US then the reading between P1D and P1N is correct. But there should be almost no current when off, maybee 1V if nothing connected.
If you live in US then the reading between P1D and P1N is correct. But there should be almost no current when off, maybee 1V if nothing connected.
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Contrary to popular belief, I am in Diamond Bar California USA 91765. Snoop dog is my neighbor! 
Pics of my board
Thank you!
Abe
Pics of my board
Thank you!
Abe
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Additional Pics.
First Pic- power connected to L,N, and Chassis, switch open, LED Off is illuminated, lamp (RadioShack) connected to P1D and P1N illuminated (85 Vac Measured across P1D and P1N, P2D and P2N).
Second Pic - switch close, LED On illuminated, lamp still lit but brighter (120Vac measured across P1D and P1N)
I saw Marks post (#126) and says
"Another experiment you can try, is to connect a very low wattage, mains-powered incandescent light bulb where the transformer primary would go. A bathroom night-light (3W in USA) would be perfect. Presto, the bulb does not light".
In my case, the lamp is always ON but just varies in intensity.
First Pic- power connected to L,N, and Chassis, switch open, LED Off is illuminated, lamp (RadioShack) connected to P1D and P1N illuminated (85 Vac Measured across P1D and P1N, P2D and P2N).
Second Pic - switch close, LED On illuminated, lamp still lit but brighter (120Vac measured across P1D and P1N)
I saw Marks post (#126) and says
"Another experiment you can try, is to connect a very low wattage, mains-powered incandescent light bulb where the transformer primary would go. A bathroom night-light (3W in USA) would be perfect. Presto, the bulb does not light".
In my case, the lamp is always ON but just varies in intensity.
Hah! I finally figured it out!
When configured for 115Vac double primary, if you leave one set (say P2D and P2N) open, it acts what I had experienced. Need both sets, I use 100K resistor, with a load. After that, works fine.
Mark I believe already mentioned similar this but took me a while to find the documentation on the thread.
Abe
When configured for 115Vac double primary, if you leave one set (say P2D and P2N) open, it acts what I had experienced. Need both sets, I use 100K resistor, with a load. After that, works fine.
Mark I believe already mentioned similar this but took me a while to find the documentation on the thread.
Abe
Hello everyone
And finally my H9KPXG works excellently, just connect the transformer to P1D and P2N, this for the 230V configuration and the strange readings are over.
In the pictures you can see H9KPXG already installed on the BA-3 chassis. If you are intrigued by the appearance of that same chassis, let's say I learned that you never buy the chassis first, or you end up with components that do not allow you to close the lid ...
A help for those who are in Europe and want to use Mouser to order components for H9KPXG, in Europe, Meanwell AC to DC module is not sold to private customers (only to OEM customers), you can replace it with one from Recom, Mouser part N: 919-RAC02-05SGA, the only difference between them is the price, the Recom being slightly more expensive.
And now I saw that Ripster had already indicated an alternative for the AC / DC module as well.
My thanks again to Mark Johnson for his generosity in sharing this project with us.
Best regards
Carlos
And finally my H9KPXG works excellently, just connect the transformer to P1D and P2N, this for the 230V configuration and the strange readings are over.
In the pictures you can see H9KPXG already installed on the BA-3 chassis. If you are intrigued by the appearance of that same chassis, let's say I learned that you never buy the chassis first, or you end up with components that do not allow you to close the lid ...
A help for those who are in Europe and want to use Mouser to order components for H9KPXG, in Europe, Meanwell AC to DC module is not sold to private customers (only to OEM customers), you can replace it with one from Recom, Mouser part N: 919-RAC02-05SGA, the only difference between them is the price, the Recom being slightly more expensive.
And now I saw that Ripster had already indicated an alternative for the AC / DC module as well.
My thanks again to Mark Johnson for his generosity in sharing this project with us.
Best regards
Carlos
Attachments
And @6L6 is right. Ordering these boards was the first time I had ordered PCB by submitting the Gerbers. It's a good learning experience.
WHOA! That's spectacular, elwood625! Congratulations. I think you might be the first builder to drop in one of the 250 Joule ICL discs and show a photo -- it's extremely cool.
Very nice looking assembly with neat soldering and beautiful flux clean-off.
Now there's another 250 Joule Sumo Wrestler in town. Wimps had better get out the way.
Very nice looking assembly with neat soldering and beautiful flux clean-off.
Now there's another 250 Joule Sumo Wrestler in town. Wimps had better get out the way.