Randy - Some other goodies are headed your way ... sorry for the delay. Had a bit of a crazy week last week (okay month) - I haven't held a soldering iron in 3 weeks. I think I'm going through withdrawals. 
Expected delivery is Mon or Tues I think.
Jim - I got the Jensens yesterday. I had to head out of town again this morning. I'll get those in the mail to you when I get back home next week.
Patrick F - If you're on this post - your goodies went out yesterday too. I'll PM or email just in case.
Thanks as always to the Mighty ZM! All my builds have been put on the back burner for the time being, but I hope to be back to DIY ASAP. I can say that my SE version sounds fantastic paired with both the Babel J2 and the SissySIT. Can't wait to get the balanced built.
Expected delivery is Mon or Tues I think.Jim - I got the Jensens yesterday. I had to head out of town again this morning. I'll get those in the mail to you when I get back home next week.
Patrick F - If you're on this post - your goodies went out yesterday too. I'll PM or email just in case.
Thanks as always to the Mighty ZM! All my builds have been put on the back burner for the time being, but I hope to be back to DIY ASAP.
I can say that my SE version sounds fantastic paired with both the Babel J2 and the SissySIT. Can't wait to get the balanced built.Understand delay, I just getting around after gallbladder surgery. Say when time allows if you could post some pics as Dennis spoke of in #609 it would be appreciated.
I already have set of Jensen transformers and am ready to make Mouser order for board stuffers. 6l6 gave me a BOM he said was 98% good for 2016 board. Any suggestions on parts substitution or trades you found in your build?
I would like to get everything in one order, but wouldn't we all. Any heads up would also be appreciated of course. Comparing board to BOM now.
Thanks,
Russellc
I already have set of Jensen transformers and am ready to make Mouser order for board stuffers. 6l6 gave me a BOM he said was 98% good for 2016 board. Any suggestions on parts substitution or trades you found in your build?
I would like to get everything in one order, but wouldn't we all. Any heads up would also be appreciated of course. Comparing board to BOM now.
Thanks,
Russellc
Last edited:
I didn't wire up the input selector. I only have one input. So, for this build - it wasn't needed. For the balanced build, I'll get it all properly built with 3 inputs (minimum) and wire up the LEDs etc. I suspect Patrick F will have his up and going soon. Plus he's a MUCH better photographer.
re: parts - PM me with your e-mail address, and I can send you my parts list that I sent to Patrick F, Jim, and Randy. I'm traveling now, so I don't have access to the file at the moment, but as soon as I get back next week - I'll send it along. If you include PFarrell and Rhthatcher on the PM - maybe they can get you the file a bit quicker and/or if they made any substitutions from what I used.
-PA
re: parts - PM me with your e-mail address, and I can send you my parts list that I sent to Patrick F, Jim, and Randy. I'm traveling now, so I don't have access to the file at the moment, but as soon as I get back next week - I'll send it along. If you include PFarrell and Rhthatcher on the PM - maybe they can get you the file a bit quicker and/or if they made any substitutions from what I used.
-PA
I didn't wire up the input selector. I only have one input. So, for this build - it wasn't needed. For the balanced build, I'll get it all properly built with 3 inputs (minimum) and wire up the LEDs etc. I suspect Patrick F will have his up and going soon. Plus he's a MUCH better photographer.
re: parts - PM me with your e-mail address, and I can send you my parts list that I sent to Patrick F, Jim, and Randy. I'm traveling now, so I don't have access to the file at the moment, but as soon as I get back next week - I'll send it along. If you include PFarrell and Rhthatcher on the PM - maybe they can get you the file a bit quicker and/or if they made any substitutions from what I used.
-PA
Thanks for the time, I may wire this first go single input as well. PM on the way with Email.
Thanks and travel safe.
Russellc
Process pics of ZM Iron Pre SE super compact....Matching chassis size for a stack-up with my version of Wayne's BA18 pre...
ZM—is the idea with the switcher to cut the loops on the Lorlin and stuff the board? Assuming yes. Haven't tested the hole sizes yet, they measure perfect though...
Ideal fuse value for a 30VA 2x18?
ZM—is the idea with the switcher to cut the loops on the Lorlin and stuff the board? Assuming yes. Haven't tested the hole sizes yet, they measure perfect though...
Ideal fuse value for a 30VA 2x18?
Attachments
you got wrong Lorlin - that one is having solder eyelets , while you need one with through-hole pins for that pcb
try cutting solder lugs/eyelets and see can you squeeze leftovers in holes on pcb ; if needed , be brave with clippers , make them narower
edit: here's crude sketch/edit of your pic
I hope you can manage something like that
I would go with different orientation of pcb , it seems depth of case is good enough for rotating pcb for 90deg , so inputs are close to RCAs back and , if you already didn't messed with front plate , you can put pot left of pcb , with extending shaft - all the way back
only that way all internal wiring is kept shortest as possible
I hate to see ultramumbojumbo constructions of Yore ( most of them being Elector or Elector inspired( having all ziggles and zaggles digital ( few timers and input relays ) , more complicated that sound side of shebang ...... while having arm fat bundle of coaxes , routed from back to front and back again
see PL arsenal for examples of professionally claimed and accomplished lazy way - everything is short and logic ...... not just being better but also being less complicated and time consuming for assembly**
idea with the switcher - Guyz demanded light show in front , and that was pretty much cleanest way of getting it
**we all know da sayin' - cut trice , measure once
Attachments
Last edited:
Thanks ZM!
I will put this in a 280mm deep 1U (keep shorter chassis for something else). Keeps my design ethos for this build—and back plate still works... but I can lay it out as you suggest. Sweet! Love it! Haven't butchered front panel yet.....
Didn't know about the PCB version of the Lorlin (Missed that detail in your earlier post)—but see pics—perfect fit after snips. On a quick look at Mouser I couldn't locate this switch with PCB pins (in USA)...That said—I DID buy part CK1030—and lugs with loops is what they sent. CK1050 seems to the same switch with "pins"—nowhere to be found at Mouser or Digikey.
I will put this in a 280mm deep 1U (keep shorter chassis for something else). Keeps my design ethos for this build—and back plate still works... but I can lay it out as you suggest. Sweet! Love it! Haven't butchered front panel yet.....
Didn't know about the PCB version of the Lorlin (Missed that detail in your earlier post)—but see pics—perfect fit after snips. On a quick look at Mouser I couldn't locate this switch with PCB pins (in USA)...That said—I DID buy part CK1030—and lugs with loops is what they sent. CK1050 seems to the same switch with "pins"—nowhere to be found at Mouser or Digikey.
Attachments
idea for these LEDs is - you can drill holes for them right in front of pcb and solder them when switch is in place , bolted
that way there is no need for additional wires for LEDs
of course , with taller front, LEDs can be above button , with 1U - either left or right of button
edit: that "something" visible on LED overlays is slightly hidden letter C for cathode ...... it could help with orientation ..... even if I always forget how C looks at actual LED (smaller inside or bigger inside) but DMM is there to remind me .....
that way there is no need for additional wires for LEDs
of course , with taller front, LEDs can be above button , with 1U - either left or right of button
edit: that "something" visible on LED overlays is slightly hidden letter C for cathode ...... it could help with orientation ..... even if I always forget how C looks at actual LED (smaller inside or bigger inside) but DMM is there to remind me .....
Last edited:
Attachments
Last edited: