Rega RB250 tonearm. Not defect as such, but had a ground loop. Made the gnd wire separate, and just after soldering this very thin cord, I made a wrong move and accidentally ripped all there other wires as well. I did manage to solder them back on the correct spots, and no more hum after this small operation 🙂
Craftsmanship is worth so much more than money..
I like people who fix things by them self..
Bravo, as I know how thin those wires are, you must have a lot of patience...
I like people who fix things by them self..
Bravo, as I know how thin those wires are, you must have a lot of patience...
May Norways BMW will initialize in 15 Minutes
Everything can be done fast.. I agree with you, if you use the INPA, Rheingold or ISTA, I can assure you that it's more and much more than 15 minutes..
But no Sweat about this, each and everyone has it's own Working time..
Mine is double check and when finally everything works, then there are still the bottom cover to place back, and with Car Lift, you will not make it within 2 hours..
This just besides of LEAK TEST, and other things..
But I agree again with you, if you let the BMW initialize just the WP, then it will take something like 15 Minutes. But for me that's not enough.
Everything can be done fast.. I agree with you, if you use the INPA, Rheingold or ISTA, I can assure you that it's more and much more than 15 minutes..
But no Sweat about this, each and everyone has it's own Working time..
Mine is double check and when finally everything works, then there are still the bottom cover to place back, and with Car Lift, you will not make it within 2 hours..
This just besides of LEAK TEST, and other things..
But I agree again with you, if you let the BMW initialize just the WP, then it will take something like 15 Minutes. But for me that's not enough.
BMW 530XI N53B30
So a s I promised, this afternoon when I returned from Business, it was around 3PM I took care of my Bimmer...
As I just had a few Days before replaced the Valve cover, and also Spark Plugs, Ignition Coils and a few other things, the top cover wasn't back on the engine which saved me some 15 Minutes time to take out the Plastic Shielding.
It's quite some work to remove the Air Intake Bridge, and including throttle and also all the cables and what comes with it.. but it's possible to do if you are alone working under 2 hours..
Exchanging the HPFP needs some special tools to remove the screws, also to tighten them as well.
So, I have replaced and tested the HPFP already but because of many little things I found, which can be made right now, like exchanging small Rubber Tube Pipes which should be exchanged, so the engine is not finish yet..
As I said I have tested the Pump and Pressure is OK. is exactly there where I like to have it..around 100BAR without running the Engine.
Check out the pics, you will be able to see the old and New pump as well as what actually was broken on the old one, I think Tomorrwo afternoon I can drive that BMW 530XI again..
Enjoy Week end..
So a s I promised, this afternoon when I returned from Business, it was around 3PM I took care of my Bimmer...
As I just had a few Days before replaced the Valve cover, and also Spark Plugs, Ignition Coils and a few other things, the top cover wasn't back on the engine which saved me some 15 Minutes time to take out the Plastic Shielding.
It's quite some work to remove the Air Intake Bridge, and including throttle and also all the cables and what comes with it.. but it's possible to do if you are alone working under 2 hours..
Exchanging the HPFP needs some special tools to remove the screws, also to tighten them as well.
So, I have replaced and tested the HPFP already but because of many little things I found, which can be made right now, like exchanging small Rubber Tube Pipes which should be exchanged, so the engine is not finish yet..
As I said I have tested the Pump and Pressure is OK. is exactly there where I like to have it..around 100BAR without running the Engine.
Check out the pics, you will be able to see the old and New pump as well as what actually was broken on the old one, I think Tomorrwo afternoon I can drive that BMW 530XI again..
Enjoy Week end..
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Nicely done! I had the valve cover replaced during a recall service. Labour was covered by the recall work so I just paid for the part.
Only 100 BAR? The VW TDI can reach 2000 BAR! I guess you need the extra pressure to atomize diesel.
Only 100 BAR? The VW TDI can reach 2000 BAR! I guess you need the extra pressure to atomize diesel.
I finished up overhauling the Akai Pro 1000 RTR....
Some idiot was into it, and must have adored using a screwdriver which was attached to his non-fuctioning brain.
At least a dozen critical pots were completely off - making my job 10 times harder.
Plus, there was missing linkage on the tension arms assembly.
And those Akai brand "never oil" motors all needed fresh oil after 40+ years.
Thank god the idiot didn't disturb the head block adjustments!
Some idiot was into it, and must have adored using a screwdriver which was attached to his non-fuctioning brain.
At least a dozen critical pots were completely off - making my job 10 times harder.
Plus, there was missing linkage on the tension arms assembly.
And those Akai brand "never oil" motors all needed fresh oil after 40+ years.
Thank god the idiot didn't disturb the head block adjustments!
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This is a Gasoline, and there 250 Bar are a lot.
You see, if the engine is completed it will go up to 250Bar.. but the 100 I measured was only to check out if the HPFP works. No intake Bridge, no Throttle not even Lambda were connected.. just pure Pump pressure for a few seconds.. So I know that the Pump has been mounted correctly..
Enjoy your cars, engine are some of the finest we can buy to a "affordable" Price..
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It take 15 min in Inpa. I guess that ista runs the same procedure (staging up and down in steps with a few stops in-between) My diagnostics laptop is so slow that it take 15 minutes to start Ista and connect to the car 🙄
You can also start the bleeding using the accelerator, but I like to have some numbers to watch, so I did it in software.
And even better, I have the N52 which was the last normally aspirated inline-6 they produced (for North America). Anything newer than my 2011 and you're into inline 4 turbo or inline 6 turbo but nothing NA anymore.
Gone are the days of bleeding by running the engine with the pressure cap removed while you watch for the bubbles. In my old VW, I used to drain the coolant, run the car with a garden hose running into the system to "flush it", let all the water drain out except for the block/heater core, and top it up with straight coolant. It's nice to have a car I care about and the money to repair it properly 🙂
Gents, Today is Swiss National day, No Fireworks because of CORONA, all throughout Switzerland, as Infections are growing up again on the daily rate which was down to 20, now we have again 200+.
But in the meantime, BMW 530Xi has been repaired by myself, and it runs like a Swiss Watch.. Thanks for all inputs in this matter..
Take it easy guys, this what I repaired today.
But in the meantime, BMW 530Xi has been repaired by myself, and it runs like a Swiss Watch.. Thanks for all inputs in this matter..
Take it easy guys, this what I repaired today.
Just finished up the intensive, aggrevating, and tedious overhaul of a Harman Kardon Citation II power amp.
Along with making some improvements/modifications to bring a higher level of reliability and performance to it.
It needed input/driver tubes, along with their sockets, multiple out-of-range resistors, all critical caps, upgraded PS caps, and some rewiring/rerouting of the harness.
Added a power switch on the rear too, and freed up the sticking bias meter as well.
She'll go another 50 years I suppose.
Along with making some improvements/modifications to bring a higher level of reliability and performance to it.
It needed input/driver tubes, along with their sockets, multiple out-of-range resistors, all critical caps, upgraded PS caps, and some rewiring/rerouting of the harness.
Added a power switch on the rear too, and freed up the sticking bias meter as well.
She'll go another 50 years I suppose.
Replaced the front porch light...I had (past tense) one of those expensive LED bazzilion hour replacement for a Halogen, lasted about a years worth of nighttime hours.
Each of these LED jobs winds up blowing out their elements, or overloading a cap, making them bad, this one had both, a torched LED element and a cap that was pressurizing its can..
So I made sure the burn't LED was shorted, changed the cap, stripped down the structure & it's going out side...
We shall see just how long this one will last.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick.........
Each of these LED jobs winds up blowing out their elements, or overloading a cap, making them bad, this one had both, a torched LED element and a cap that was pressurizing its can..
So I made sure the burn't LED was shorted, changed the cap, stripped down the structure & it's going out side...
We shall see just how long this one will last.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick.........
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I never change LEDs only if I don't like the color. I have tried halogens, but they litterally explode
Knocked a couple of items off the Honey Do list.
One was an elliptical trainer we were given for free because it ate batteries like crazy, 1 set/workout. Opening it up, it obviously was a questionable design because it was battery power only (4 AA) but there was a heatsinked TIP31 (!) doing some sleep/awake switching. Replaced a leaky cap and powering it with a heatsinked LM7806 seems to do the trick.
Fixed one of those man cave clocks that also had ridiculous battery life. The blinky circuit seemed to be malfunctioning, so I just wired an LM7805 directly to the LED's.
One was an elliptical trainer we were given for free because it ate batteries like crazy, 1 set/workout. Opening it up, it obviously was a questionable design because it was battery power only (4 AA) but there was a heatsinked TIP31 (!) doing some sleep/awake switching. Replaced a leaky cap and powering it with a heatsinked LM7806 seems to do the trick.
Fixed one of those man cave clocks that also had ridiculous battery life. The blinky circuit seemed to be malfunctioning, so I just wired an LM7805 directly to the LED's.
Not exactly 'today', but... the electrons on my fingertips barely had time to dry after posting an article in 'everything else' on my "unorthodox and affordable" desktop-driven system when a marvelous power outage with about 5 flickers left me in the dark for a good while. I ran my generator for a bit, then shut it down around 1am since it wasn't particularly hot outside. It was back when I woke up to find that, of 7 computers, only the one housing the front-end of my audio system (one of 2 connected through a Tripp-Lite "line stabilizer/conditioner" and a surge protector after that!) was toast. MBR failure, and after becoming a quasi-expert on MBR recovery I had nothing to show for my efforts. Nothing from MS or anyone else worked. Geek squad (how embarrassing) couldn't do a thing with it. I could still read my files booting off a stick, but that was it. I yanked it back from the Geeks before they could reimage the thing (if they could) and destroy my files.
I just happened to have a near-identical machine sitting around (it survived despite being plugged directly to the wall socket) so, sez I, time to fish around (in command prompt!) for all the configuration files etc. I didn't need to try to reconfigure foobar and all its plugins for a month. Then I realized things were even worse --- in a fit of madness I had moved all pertinent programs and config files to RamDisk, replacing their directories in program files, appdata etc., with junctions. It worked seamlessly for so long I just forgot about it. RamDisk, unfortunately, doesn't exist until the system boots normally.
So I went hunting some more with my DOS prompt to look for vestiges. I found what seemed to be the database in the C: top directory! I copied that onto a stick, put it on a working machine also equipped with Radeon RamDisk, and restarted. Lo and behold, RamDisk came up with all my files intact!
Then it was just a matter of getting the files onto the other machine, rebooting, and hoping the registry took my hacks as installations. It did!
As for my poor fried machine, it is back up now with a wiped disk (I did get stuff like pictures, documents etc. onto a usb drive first). Since MS's marvelous ISO image download didn't seem to want to work on anything but a GPT-partitioned disk, I now have a machine that doesn't use its fried MBR and boots off UEFI. Documents, Pictures etc. were restored. Now I have to think of something for it to do besides exist.
I just happened to have a near-identical machine sitting around (it survived despite being plugged directly to the wall socket) so, sez I, time to fish around (in command prompt!) for all the configuration files etc. I didn't need to try to reconfigure foobar and all its plugins for a month. Then I realized things were even worse --- in a fit of madness I had moved all pertinent programs and config files to RamDisk, replacing their directories in program files, appdata etc., with junctions. It worked seamlessly for so long I just forgot about it. RamDisk, unfortunately, doesn't exist until the system boots normally.
So I went hunting some more with my DOS prompt to look for vestiges. I found what seemed to be the database in the C: top directory! I copied that onto a stick, put it on a working machine also equipped with Radeon RamDisk, and restarted. Lo and behold, RamDisk came up with all my files intact!
Then it was just a matter of getting the files onto the other machine, rebooting, and hoping the registry took my hacks as installations. It did!
As for my poor fried machine, it is back up now with a wiped disk (I did get stuff like pictures, documents etc. onto a usb drive first). Since MS's marvelous ISO image download didn't seem to want to work on anything but a GPT-partitioned disk, I now have a machine that doesn't use its fried MBR and boots off UEFI. Documents, Pictures etc. were restored. Now I have to think of something for it to do besides exist.
I'm currently trying to track down some distortion (due to a possible Ecap/coupling cap?) in the recording section of an Akai 4000D tape deck.
Scoped line output 1kHz wave is perfect in "source in" but right recorded channel distorts badly in "tape monitor".
And as all RTR decks, this one's a bear to work on.
Scoped line output 1kHz wave is perfect in "source in" but right recorded channel distorts badly in "tape monitor".
And as all RTR decks, this one's a bear to work on.