Just select your chassis, then click the Customization Services hyperlink. The parts are shipped from Italy. The turn around time can be just a couple of weeks, and they do a really nice job.I hadn't realized that the DIYaudiostore had that much capability to engrave panels (via Bologna, Italy?). Thanks for enlightening me. Yeah, AoE is heavy going for me. Learning AoE is the lab manual, and is more hands on than AoE, which is more of reference work, IMO (still essential, though).
I made a mess of my front panel when I drilled three holes with a hand drill for my Tubecad/Glassware "FrontPanel" attenuator/selector PCB. It eventually fit, but it's embarrassing to look at. I'd like to do it over again. BTW, I completed the BA2018 months ago and I love the sound.It seems you're really working through this very thread, aren't you?
(I still haven't got myself a drillpress, but didn't make any (big) drilljobs either)
I punched guide holes and made pilot holes, and then I used a stepped drill bit with drilling fluid, but that got out of hand pretty quickly.
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Purchase either the 10" or 12" WEN model instead of the 8". The increase in working height will be easier on your back and the crank-adjustable worktable makes working height adjustments a snap. The 12" model has a continuously adjustable speed feature instead of having to change belt settings.Did you purchase a Wen? Maybe the 8"? I'm tired of cockeyed results.
The DIY chasis are built by Modushop, in Italy. Their CNC machines can do just about anything. I'm a fan, after two purchases from them. I'm EU so I order directly.I hadn't realized that the DIYaudiostore had that much capability to engrave panels (via Bologna, Italy?). Thanks for enlightening me. Yeah, AoE is heavy going for me. Learning AoE is the lab manual, and is more hands on than AoE, which is more of reference work, IMO (still essential, though).
Finally finished my Waynes! Started on this project over a year ago (may be more like 2...). I thought "hey, I can buy the board as a kit from DIY audio, won't take more than two afternoons to stuff and solder the board". Let's just say I was right on that estimate, it was all of the other things which I discovered on the way which took time....
Chassis from Modushop, A3 stereo stepped attenuator from Glass-ware, VDRN PSU, Toroidy "porn for audiophiles" transformer, parts from Mouser and Digikey, and lots and lots of help from all the wonderful people on the DIY Audio forums. Thanks, everyone!
I didn't like the LEDs on the board, so I pulled them to the front of the chassis. Fun to watch them fade out when you cut the power... nice reminder that the PSU caps don't go to zero immediately.
Happy badgers.
Cross-posting with the VDRN thread (more photos there), because people on that thread were so helpful figuring out the power supply.
Chassis from Modushop, A3 stereo stepped attenuator from Glass-ware, VDRN PSU, Toroidy "porn for audiophiles" transformer, parts from Mouser and Digikey, and lots and lots of help from all the wonderful people on the DIY Audio forums. Thanks, everyone!
I didn't like the LEDs on the board, so I pulled them to the front of the chassis. Fun to watch them fade out when you cut the power... nice reminder that the PSU caps don't go to zero immediately.
Happy badgers.
Cross-posting with the VDRN thread (more photos there), because people on that thread were so helpful figuring out the power supply.
Hi, friends!
I have a bit of surplus gain I want to get rid of. I have searched and searched, as I have previously read about gain adjustment on the WLS from both Wayne and Mark Johnson in this thread. But alas, no dice.
Can anyone shed some light on the best way to decrease gain on this circuit, and if possible also about the potential consequences both sound and stability-wise?
Have a good one!
regards,
Andy
I have a bit of surplus gain I want to get rid of. I have searched and searched, as I have previously read about gain adjustment on the WLS from both Wayne and Mark Johnson in this thread. But alas, no dice.
Can anyone shed some light on the best way to decrease gain on this circuit, and if possible also about the potential consequences both sound and stability-wise?
Have a good one!
regards,
Andy
Nobody’s faster than Mighty. Omnipresent, omnipotentwanted to be faster than l'mighty ZM. Wahaha!
#1489, #2668, #2943
lalala
and not to decrease feedback/R16 at the same time, as suggested by 6L6 in #1489?feel free to increase R17
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if you're changing value of R16, then you must scale value of parallel C, to obtain same RC value
if you're changing R17, no need for anything else
Wayne decided to have different impedances of LTP sides, so why should I worry - he certainly knows ..... I'm , comparing to him
if you're changing R17, no need for anything else
Wayne decided to have different impedances of LTP sides, so why should I worry - he certainly knows ..... I'm , comparing to him
Thanks, Mighty. I remember now…
Do you btw think the Muses VCU can match inductive attenuators?
Regards,
Baby V
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