Been listening and listening, and have been in favour of the B1K for a few weeks now. But I have to say, this linestage beats both the B1K and the ACP+ paired with my Aleph J Zen.
Ha!
Me too have put it back into the chain. Good thing! 😍
Craving to compare it with other beasts though!
Me too have put it back into the chain. Good thing! 😍
Craving to compare it with other beasts though!
Does this stop me? Of course not. It merely settles 120% my next pre. Iron Pimp or something, read about it somewhere, apparently a Batsch creation.
but first I do wonder how the WLS will fair with shunt regs and inductive attenuation, and maybe even double up and run it balanced. Future is bright
but first I do wonder how the WLS will fair with shunt regs and inductive attenuation, and maybe even double up and run it balanced. Future is bright
Thans my friend! I have the FQP3P20/FQP3N30 and everything I need, afaik. (Are the 2sj…s said to be … better? Don‘t know, as they already were unobtainium when I went hunting)
Unobtanium, lest from the underground of Japan through . Last pair seemingly… as always.
Papa once wrote that the circuit sounds especially well if using specified parts. I think 6L6 once wrote there was no apparent audible difference. Personally, I don’t know.
I also have original J74s and K170s @ 10mA IDSS exact, to enable building exactly as specified by Pa. Audible? Dunno, that was what I was going to find out.
then new projects came.
though, if I build the F4 or a low gain amp someday, that will be a good pre to go with it.
but like I said, give me a chime. For you only.
What can I say that has not been said already? I am amazed of how clean this pre sounds and measures.
What a gift for the diy community. Thanks Wayne! And thanks to the Store for providing the complete kit.
What a gift for the diy community. Thanks Wayne! And thanks to the Store for providing the complete kit.
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Here the complete set. Done with an old sound card... that probably shows its limits before the pre. 🙂
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I've had mine for almost a year now, it's nice to see what I've been hearing.
Very, very nice! I also like the on/off switch. Could you provide information or a link of brand and type?
Thanks. I have no clue about brand. I used to buy from eBay but now I can find them only locally (links below).
https://www.electrokit.com/en/product/toggle-switch-1-p-on-off-led-red/
https://www.kjell.com/se/produkter/...ppomkopplare/strombrytare-250v5a-1-pol-p36093
Maybe with an image search you can find out more.
Peppe,
I really like the look of your build. I am put off from building this kit because of the difficulty of locating all the "little parts" needed to finish the project like the case, the volume control, the input and output connectors, the power supply. You have put together what looks like a very nice blend of form and function. Have you a bill of materials for the whole thing? If so I would very much appreciate having a look at it!
Unfortunately I don't usually make a BOM because I work on different projects in parallel and once something is missing I move to the next one until is time to do a combined order for missing components. In doing so you are not put off by the need to locate everything upfront... 😎 However, I can track down any single component and I am happy to do so. We can keep the discussion here (it can be interesting for others) or in PM. But let's start now.
- The case is a HIFI 2000 Case GX347 40x330x170 - Front 3mm Silver. I guess you find it also on the Store.
- The BA 2018 PCB and components is the kit from the Store. I replaced some resistors with Dale CMF55 since is what I usually buy/have.
- The PSU comes from here but the BOM is on another page. The guy is a member here and very nice to deal with (and will answer shall you need technical aid). However, if you want to use the the 1U case above you must order the low profile versions of the transformer (Talema 70054K - 15VA 18V), capacitors (EEU-FK1V332S and EEU-FK1E102L) and heatsinks (513002B02500G). In parentheses what I used. And must use 5mm hex spacer to mount the PCBs. Height of the components is important. Not exact part number.