I use a $20 hand drill with a cord, a $5 2.5 mm drill bit, and a $10 tapping tool kit to tap 3mm screw holes. A hammer also helps, to make the first mark for the drill bit to have something to hold on to. A worthy $35 investment that every man should have.
I use 10x10 cm Keratherm 86/82 sheets from Conrad, there is a glossy side and a dull (rough) side - but I didn't noticed a plastic sheet which can be removed
I've tried again now but I can't separate anything 🤔
those from Store are sent all lined on some plasticky sheet, to avoid damage sort of?
anyhow, Conrad nope - no plasticky
anyhow, Conrad nope - no plasticky
Sooner or later I have to take same approach if I don’t change the enclosures.
I tried the same on 70/50 and nothing comes off
Got it now
Thanks to all for the replies!
I left the amplifiers 1h to warm up, the top cover was always off.
The readings were the following: 42c on the heatsink and 70c on the mosfet lateral side(see attached photo)
To fix the mosfets to the heatsinks I use m3 screws, split washers, small thin washers(5mm diam iirc), thicker larger washers(10mm iirc), the order from the screw head to the mosfet body is the one described above.
I will wait patiently for the new isolators with the amps off😎
The readings were the following: 42c on the heatsink and 70c on the mosfet lateral side(see attached photo)
To fix the mosfets to the heatsinks I use m3 screws, split washers, small thin washers(5mm diam iirc), thicker larger washers(10mm iirc), the order from the screw head to the mosfet body is the one described above.
I will wait patiently for the new isolators with the amps off😎
Attachments
from where you took your GND reference?
in the end - due to bridged nature of amp, it is not that criticall, but I can't see any wire put to clean area ( remember red dots?)
pic taken from your last post with pics
in the end - due to bridged nature of amp, it is not that criticall, but I can't see any wire put to clean area ( remember red dots?)
pic taken from your last post with pics
heh
have accudrill, red dots, yadayada?
why not making it perfect, with minimal efforts?
even M3 bolt will do
have accudrill, red dots, yadayada?
why not making it perfect, with minimal efforts?
even M3 bolt will do
Yes I have the hardware so I can try that, it simpler than doing it on the heatsinks(less holes). I have an entire week until I get the isolators.
I wanted a fast solution to be able to listen to some music so took the shortest route.
I wanted a fast solution to be able to listen to some music so took the shortest route.
I know you know it, but for 
around - as is, it is one of dirtiest positions for GND
only first caps are having greater current peaks at contact points
so, again, just for reference, red dots
around - as is, it is one of dirtiest positions for GNDonly first caps are having greater current peaks at contact points
so, again, just for reference, red dots
Tbh didn’t know and initially I thought you were jokingI know you know it, but for
Nice!
I was looking at ll1935 to replace the cmoq 4hpc in my preamp, even if you said you don’t like the lundahl sound. The edcor seems cheap enough so I can give it a try.
I was looking at ll1935 to replace the cmoq 4hpc in my preamp, even if you said you don’t like the lundahl sound. The edcor seems cheap enough so I can give it a try.
