I guess I could try doping the cone/surround with crosslinked PVA glue.
First to try would be doping a band along the inside edge of the foam surround and extending about 20mm into the cone .Which is what Scanspeak does on some of their Classic paper cone drivers.
First to try would be doping a band along the inside edge of the foam surround and extending about 20mm into the cone .Which is what Scanspeak does on some of their Classic paper cone drivers.
When you make a multiway, you use the best bandwidth for each specific driver and tame the rest, suited to the enclosure used. How is it different from adding a baffle step or notch(es) to a FR? I have never come across a driver that wouldn't need a notch or two to sound great. Those are measurable, and predictable.
But instead, you're willing to do some voodoo on the cone by adding glue to some parts of it in an attempt to make the driver sound better to you.
Audio is a strange sort of hobby.... 🙂
I have had friends who went down that rabbit hole with Lowther,Fostex ,Philips,Wharfedale and Goodmans wizzer coned speakers.It was never very convincing.In some ways it improved the sound but at the cost of the essence of what made those drivers sound interesting.The best driver I used was a 10 inch guitar speaker mounted on a wide baffle I bought for $10 in a garage sale.I think it was an old RCF .
😆 😆😆
Well, that will now conclude this segment. Don't get your fingers sticky! 🙂
Well, that will now conclude this segment. Don't get your fingers sticky! 🙂
I really do think that we need to do what we need to do before we judge a driver or holistic loudspeaker design by its performance. Just because it's a single driver doesn't mean it isn't a system design effort. Balancing frequency response and distortion to achieve optimal psychoacoustics is the goal.
I also really can't understand why would anyone go and fix things which don't need fixing. 😀 It already has ring of sticky glue to control cone edge resonance. If you don't like it, leave it and buy something else. Or cut the whizzer off and you have normal high sensitivity midbass to make something with tweeter...
I mean, this is objectively very good unit on all parameters, it has sharp and lively presentation and above average high frequency quality. You can literally buy some voodo rare fullranger for 500 or 5000 money units and it will probably be worse than this little plastic thing....
When I catch time I will remove whizzer from one of my samples and measure response...
I mean, this is objectively very good unit on all parameters, it has sharp and lively presentation and above average high frequency quality. You can literally buy some voodo rare fullranger for 500 or 5000 money units and it will probably be worse than this little plastic thing....
When I catch time I will remove whizzer from one of my samples and measure response...
I did not mean it was good.Just that it was better [or rather less bad] than the other wizzer coned based drivers I had tried.
for those trying to do a diy whizzer cone here a hint "How to"
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/how-to-make-a-whizzer-cone.398063/post-7320393
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/how-to-make-a-whizzer-cone.398063/post-7320393
Hello @nandappe .
Thank you for sharing your learnings and knowledge. You have inspired me to purchase a pair of SB20FRPC630-8s and build a Voigt pipe for them.
I am open to changing the cabinet dimensions to tailor them for the drivers and hence I'm trying to model them in hornresp to find the optimal dimensions.
Given that I intend to place the pipes close to the front wall, are the below selections I've made for the input wizard correct? Thank you in advance for any guidance you can provide me.
Hi timmiee32,
Sorry, I don't use simulators, so I can't answer your question.
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PS.
If anyone is familiar with simulators, please follow me.
Sorry, I don't use simulators, so I can't answer your question.
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PS.
If anyone is familiar with simulators, please follow me.
