Clutching at straws I've been looking at other possible causes and found this (No. 3) in the Garrard Service Sheet which may be a red herring.:-
'And, I presume the top motor bearing has also been lubricated!'
A couple of drops of sewing machine oil on the motor spindle from the top underneath the idler wheel pully or do I have to disassemble the motor?
No sideways play in the motor spindle whatsoever, so that's good news?
'And, I presume the top motor bearing has also been lubricated!'
A couple of drops of sewing machine oil on the motor spindle from the top underneath the idler wheel pully or do I have to disassemble the motor?
No sideways play in the motor spindle whatsoever, so that's good news?
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You may expect to feel some play, it would only be a problem if you could actually see the spindle movng from side to side.
I direct the oil into the top bearing by trickling it down the narrow shaft of a screwdriver - no need to dismantle anything.
This annotated image of a Garrard Type A deck may help you locate the height adjusting screw mentioned in the remedy.
I direct the oil into the top bearing by trickling it down the narrow shaft of a screwdriver - no need to dismantle anything.
This annotated image of a Garrard Type A deck may help you locate the height adjusting screw mentioned in the remedy.
P.P.S. Here's a video which explores how a velocity trip works:
Jim is as befuddled as us at first, so you may like to jump to 23 minutes where he looks at the adjustment screw.
Those little 'tags' to which you referred in post #68 are called 'strikers'.
Turning the screw that raises and lowers the trip lever is all you need to do.
Jim is as befuddled as us at first, so you may like to jump to 23 minutes where he looks at the adjustment screw.
Those little 'tags' to which you referred in post #68 are called 'strikers'.
Turning the screw that raises and lowers the trip lever is all you need to do.
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I've successfully restored a number of BSR auto-changers and they were 'relatively' straightforward compared with tis Garrard!
One of the things I did learn was the point you make about ensuring that the '... trip lever and associated sliding parts must be dry - no oil or grease to restrict movement.'
I located the height adjusting screw and moved the lever up very slightly and this has certainly improved things with the auto-changer cycle.
A bit more fettling and then hopefully we are done!
One of the things I did learn was the point you make about ensuring that the '... trip lever and associated sliding parts must be dry - no oil or grease to restrict movement.'
I located the height adjusting screw and moved the lever up very slightly and this has certainly improved things with the auto-changer cycle.
A bit more fettling and then hopefully we are done!
'At this point, I would be contemplating modifying/replacing the turntable mounting board in the stereogram and fitting a later Garrard or BSR autochanger!'
Seems a bit like 'giving in' now that we've got this far although I do admit that new problems seem to keep popping up as we progress or not!
Now where am I going to find a later Garrard or BSR autochanger!
Seems a bit like 'giving in' now that we've got this far although I do admit that new problems seem to keep popping up as we progress or not!
Now where am I going to find a later Garrard or BSR autochanger!
This Garrard Autoslim doesn't look too modern so could be a period sensitive replacement:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12585794...vFrFG4MKIUOoyTkP48GvJwcB8=|tkp:Bk9SR9TvwqnoYQ
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12585794...vFrFG4MKIUOoyTkP48GvJwcB8=|tkp:Bk9SR9TvwqnoYQ
If you are using the RPM iPhone app, then your wow readings will be unweighted values that will look high.
However, I would aim for readings that are no more than one tenth of those you are reporting.
All of them!
However, I would aim for readings that are no more than one tenth of those you are reporting.
All of them!
Readings are indeed from my RPM iPhone app and the wow/flutter is clearly audible, even with no amp or speakers attached!
I wonder to what extent the weight of the iPhone on one side of the platter makes things unbalanced?
I may need to spend some time away from this Garrard auto-changer if only for my own sanity!
I wonder to what extent the weight of the iPhone on one side of the platter makes things unbalanced?
I may need to spend some time away from this Garrard auto-changer if only for my own sanity!
1, 2 and 3 should be eliminated by inspection (I'm sure you will have lubricated the spindle with oil).
I made sure I checked 4 when I was renovating my SP25 MkIII.
Regarding 5, a bent motor spindle should be obvious to the eye and an unbalanced rotor probably means a noisy motor.
Not to the level of the things you are reporting!
I made sure I checked 4 when I was renovating my SP25 MkIII.
Regarding 5, a bent motor spindle should be obvious to the eye and an unbalanced rotor probably means a noisy motor.
Not to the level of the things you are reporting!
Went to try this :-
'I might try to lightly sand the idler wheel attached to the chuck of my Dremel?'
But of course the Dremel chuck is too small and I tried an M4 bolt which is slightly too small - don't want a wobble which will only increase the wow/flutter! Do I need an Imperial bolt and if so, what diameter?
'I might try to lightly sand the idler wheel attached to the chuck of my Dremel?'
But of course the Dremel chuck is too small and I tried an M4 bolt which is slightly too small - don't want a wobble which will only increase the wow/flutter! Do I need an Imperial bolt and if so, what diameter?
I removed he idler wheel and inserted a bolt through the middle and tightened it up with a nut and washer. The diameter of the bolt was very slightly smaller than the hole in the idler wheel which meant that it was off centre but only by a fraction. This was obvious when the end of the bolt was inserted into the chuck of my cordless drill and turned on. Didn't want to attempt any sanding in case I made things worse.
Now I'm thinking that if someone knew the exact diameter of a bolt that would fit the idler heel hole then we may have an alternative to a lathe?
Now I'm thinking that if someone knew the exact diameter of a bolt that would fit the idler heel hole then we may have an alternative to a lathe?