Pearl 3 Burning Amp 2023

Thanks! Yes, the rotary switch solution is rather expensive. I think these grayhill switches were $25-30 each.

I look forward to more pix when you find them.

I think the on-board DIP switch module is a huge feature for the Pearl 3.

Randy
 

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Here is a pic of one of the pcbs I made.
Don't be confused about the Opamp in the pic - it is the same footprint as for a 4-pole-dipswitch (throughhole).
You can mount the dip-switches to one side of the pcb and the resistors or caps to the opposite side of the pcb. Then you get more clearance to the backpanel of the case. Check / mirror the numbers of the partslocation...
I don't use screwterminals for input /output. I only like that footprint for easy soldering...from both sides
Cheers
Dirk
 

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Dirk, do you have more pix of your dip switch setup on your P2? Including internal pix?

My Pearl 2 is a 2 box solution with adjustments on the back using knobs and a gain switch. I now know the settings of my carts, so the P3 will be a “set and forget” philosophy for me.

Ay.... you know me.... you never know what cartridge might come by... and who knows, you might get a second turntable.

And keep those rotary switches!

I'm not into DIP switches... they take too much effort and they, ahem!, just look cheap.
 
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After much delay from Digikey, the bulk of my parts for Pearl 3 have arrived. The rest was ordered from Mouser, but the ZTX450 were OOS at both. The hope was to be one of the early builders to provide feedback and observations, but that has been delayed.

Thank you very much to Wayne for the extra board to make up what I was missing, and to 6L6 for the PS board, some nice parts, and even a rotary switch for my Iron Pre build, also stalled out by backordered parts. Much appreciated, gentlemen!

Good thing I have 8 other ongoing projects 🙂.
 
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Drag soldering works a peach, even with paste flux. Can't tell you how easy that was to put on the little 8-pin guys.

Today was soldering day. I thought I would finish today but I mis-ordered the 220uF capacitors somehow & now I need to decide whether the 50V ones I have on hand are acceptable for Mark's UDP. I don't think they are:

Mark's part: Wurth 860080574011
220uF, 35V
ESR 56 mOhms
Ripple current 1A

My potential substitute: TDK B41851A6227M000
220uF, 50V
ESR 900 mOhms
Ripple current 300mA
 

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Yes for the 220uF electrolytics, 50V is okay. I wish the ESR wasn't so big and I wish the ripple current wasn't so small, those details will reduce its effectiveness a little bit. But the unit will work correctly and provide clean power to the umbilical cable, while you wait for the low ESR and high ripple current parts to arrive. Then when you swap in the correct parts the unit will work (a little) better and the cable will get (a little) cleaner power. Like when you switch your high performance sports car from 89 octane petrol to 93 octane.
 
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Drag soldering works a peach, even with paste flux. Can't tell you how easy that was to put on the little 8-pin guys.

Today was soldering day. I thought I would finish today but I mis-ordered the 220uF capacitors somehow & now I need to decide whether the 50V ones I have on hand are acceptable for Mark's UDP. I don't think they are:
Which PCB manufacture did you use to produce the PCBs from the Gerber files?
Is it more or less just to upload the Gerbers (.zip file)?
 
OK! also MJ's UDP?
I the meantime I got a PM from a DIY-member from the Nordics that he would like to ship a MJ-UDP PCB to me at shipping cost only.
The shipping is already prepared and I am very happy with this and I look forward to the PCB.
Then my P3 will be with MJ's UDP in its own chassis!
For the P3 itself I wait for kit to arrive at the store.