The end for now...
Unfortunately, I'll have to stop this experiment.
There is something else wrong with the projector. It could be the ballast itself or perhaps the power supply.
Basically, even with the original lamp you hear a series of clicks, maybe the image will flicker for a second or two, and then blank.
The fans would still be running but no light, even after I installed the new lamp.
I'll have to get someone to look at the pj but if the cost becomes too prohibitive, I may just end up putting the projector away until I come up with the funds to fix it.
It was fun (sort of) while it lasted...
Victor
Unfortunately, I'll have to stop this experiment.
There is something else wrong with the projector. It could be the ballast itself or perhaps the power supply.
Basically, even with the original lamp you hear a series of clicks, maybe the image will flicker for a second or two, and then blank.
The fans would still be running but no light, even after I installed the new lamp.
I'll have to get someone to look at the pj but if the cost becomes too prohibitive, I may just end up putting the projector away until I come up with the funds to fix it.
It was fun (sort of) while it lasted...
Victor
ymh everything is seated the same just like the original. There is something else that's wrong and its either the ballast or in power supply.
It was doing the same thing even with the old bulb in place.
Victor
It was doing the same thing even with the old bulb in place.
Victor
I am wondering if the projector thinks it has reached that magic number for the hours and expects a reset before continuing? Do you know the reset sequence for the lamp counter?
Victor, I know it sounds like your projector is trying to start up, but I found the lamp reset method if it would help at all....
http://www.sharpusa.com/files/pro_man_XGNV5XUenglish.pdf
(page 41)
Your PJ is the XG-NV5XU right?
http://www.sharpusa.com/files/pro_man_XGNV5XUenglish.pdf
(page 41)
Your PJ is the XG-NV5XU right?
Guys, Thanks for your help but this problem was doing it before I even bought the lamp from ymh. Clearly, I have to take it to a repairman to diagnose. Hopefully, this won't cost me much.
Victor
Victor
To anyone that has actually replaced the lamp with these new bulbs: How did you align the new lamp inside the reflector and how did you get it to stay while the new cement dried?
So how does one align the arc gap so it sits at the focal point of the reflector?
So how does one align the arc gap so it sits at the focal point of the reflector?
good question! i'd like to know myself... i'm gonna get a bulb too soon here. i was going to try and measure from the middle of the electrode gap to a fixed point on the reflector before i remove the old bulb. hopefully it will be close enough. that is, unless someone has a better idea?!
BadBoy 😎
BadBoy 😎
Hi,
I'm also wondering about this as my new bulb should be arriving from China soon (thanks ywh / 18wheeler!)......
I've looked at some other lamps, and although there are many differences between lamps, a few of them seemed to have the arc gaps aligned so you could just about see the reflection of the end of the back electrode in the reflector??
I don't think there's an easy way of aligning it perfectly without at least using a light meter, or going near the dodgy high voltages, IR/UV, and heat when the bulb is powered!!! DANGER!
I imagine that getting a more uniform output out of the reflector would be far more difficult......
I did think of just attaching some sort of insulated rods to the back of the bulb, then watching the light uniformity and brightness on the screen. By moving the bulb around when it's in the soft cement, it might be possible to align in good enough?
Does anyone else have any tips for this?
EDIT: Oh well, someone's got a nice patent for doing just the same using motors by the looks of it.....
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6923558.html
I'm also wondering about this as my new bulb should be arriving from China soon (thanks ywh / 18wheeler!)......
I've looked at some other lamps, and although there are many differences between lamps, a few of them seemed to have the arc gaps aligned so you could just about see the reflection of the end of the back electrode in the reflector??
I don't think there's an easy way of aligning it perfectly without at least using a light meter, or going near the dodgy high voltages, IR/UV, and heat when the bulb is powered!!! DANGER!
I imagine that getting a more uniform output out of the reflector would be far more difficult......
I did think of just attaching some sort of insulated rods to the back of the bulb, then watching the light uniformity and brightness on the screen. By moving the bulb around when it's in the soft cement, it might be possible to align in good enough?
Does anyone else have any tips for this?
EDIT: Oh well, someone's got a nice patent for doing just the same using motors by the looks of it.....
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6923558.html
I moved the lamp until the image of the bulb section completely filled the mirrored section of the reflector; that was an indication that I had hit the focal point. You can actually see that the electrodes have become really large.
As for keeping the lamp at the final position it was pure patience on my part. The muffler mender sets very quickly so I held the reflector and the lamp for about 20 minutes when it had already begun to harden and then used duct tape between the reflector and the end of the lamp.
This method worked out okay for me.
As for keeping the lamp at the final position it was pure patience on my part. The muffler mender sets very quickly so I held the reflector and the lamp for about 20 minutes when it had already begun to harden and then used duct tape between the reflector and the end of the lamp.
This method worked out okay for me.
Sweet! I got my bulb from ywh today, if anyone is wondering how long the shipping wait is, it took 2 weeks for me, pretty fast considering it came all the way from China.
I never realized how small it would be, now I'm crossing my fingers and hoping it will work on my MP7730. I just have to get some Muffler Mender that people have talked about, and wait about 1200hrs for my original bulb to go...
I never realized how small it would be, now I'm crossing my fingers and hoping it will work on my MP7730. I just have to get some Muffler Mender that people have talked about, and wait about 1200hrs for my original bulb to go...
Has anyone replaced an Infocus Screenplay 4805 lamp?
160 / 200W SHP - 3,000 hours
Those are the specs listed in the manual but I can't seem to find a service manual.. Any suggestions?
(I'm also curious about a scratched reflector fix)
160 / 200W SHP - 3,000 hours
Those are the specs listed in the manual but I can't seem to find a service manual.. Any suggestions?
(I'm also curious about a scratched reflector fix)
Hi ! fuerio
I can not found the information of SHP, some inf only write it is Super High Pressure Mercury Lamp, same as jyd, no about DC or AC.
but I have seen all SHP is DC, my other friends said DC too.
can you tset the V of lamp?
I can not found the information of SHP, some inf only write it is Super High Pressure Mercury Lamp, same as jyd, no about DC or AC.
but I have seen all SHP is DC, my other friends said DC too.
can you tset the V of lamp?
Hi ywh,
My lamp and ballast turned up yesterday morning! The delivery didn't take too long.
Unfortunately, I was stupid enough to test the JYs lamp on my Sharp projector and something might have happened to the lamp!? The Sharp has a 120W ballast, and usually takes a 120W UHL lamp?
I tried another lamp on this projector before, which is an Osram VIP-R 120/P20, and it appeared to work fine.
So, when I tried the new JYs lamp on the Sharp projector, it ignited OK, but I don't think it was as bright as it should have been. But, I do have it sitting inside the old Proxima reflector to test it at the moment.
I only tested the JYs bulb for a few seconds, but I noticed it was smoking quite a bit! I put this down to the fact that it might have dirt on the bulb from shipping etc.....
The most worrying thing is that the inside of the bulb appears to be coated in silver mercury looking stuff? I don't think this is good news is it?
Is this likely to happen when a DC lamp is tried on an AC ballast? It could also have been that the working voltage of the Sharp ballast was way too high. I think it's 85V !!! (this really isn't good is it?)
Have I already managed to break my new lamp? And, should I even try it on the PMA161X now?
Regards,
OzOnE.
P.S. Could you possibly get hold of a small reflector to fit my Sharp PG-M15X DLP projector? I repaired the projector, but no lamp / reflector was included. It takes a very small reflector and the width and length is only around 50mm x 50mm)
My lamp and ballast turned up yesterday morning! The delivery didn't take too long.
Unfortunately, I was stupid enough to test the JYs lamp on my Sharp projector and something might have happened to the lamp!? The Sharp has a 120W ballast, and usually takes a 120W UHL lamp?
I tried another lamp on this projector before, which is an Osram VIP-R 120/P20, and it appeared to work fine.
So, when I tried the new JYs lamp on the Sharp projector, it ignited OK, but I don't think it was as bright as it should have been. But, I do have it sitting inside the old Proxima reflector to test it at the moment.
I only tested the JYs bulb for a few seconds, but I noticed it was smoking quite a bit! I put this down to the fact that it might have dirt on the bulb from shipping etc.....
The most worrying thing is that the inside of the bulb appears to be coated in silver mercury looking stuff? I don't think this is good news is it?
Is this likely to happen when a DC lamp is tried on an AC ballast? It could also have been that the working voltage of the Sharp ballast was way too high. I think it's 85V !!! (this really isn't good is it?)
Have I already managed to break my new lamp? And, should I even try it on the PMA161X now?
Regards,
OzOnE.
P.S. Could you possibly get hold of a small reflector to fit my Sharp PG-M15X DLP projector? I repaired the projector, but no lamp / reflector was included. It takes a very small reflector and the width and length is only around 50mm x 50mm)
Hi!
Manufacturer : Hitachi
Model : PJTX100
Lamp Type UHP
Light Source Life 2000 Hours
Light Source Power 150W UHP
MPN DT00661
Product ID 26739457
any configuration for this projector?
Thanks
Manufacturer : Hitachi
Model : PJTX100
Lamp Type UHP
Light Source Life 2000 Hours
Light Source Power 150W UHP
MPN DT00661
Product ID 26739457
any configuration for this projector?
Thanks
Hi ! OzOnE_2k3
you can try it on the PMA161X now, dont bother;-)
about the Sharp PG-M15X DLP projector, I have not inf of UHL.the UH like ultra-high, but the life is 1000Hr only, that like MHL. can you find some inf of UHL?
but I found the Osram VIP-R 120/12, I think it like your VIP-R 120/20, in this pdf, the lamp is High Pressure Mercury Discharge Lamps, it like jyd/ac.
http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/globalcitizenship/environment/pdf/L1515A_PSDS.pdf
in the you give me web, Sharp PG-M15X need VIP-R 120 too.
If you like, you can send back the jys and your ballast to me so I can choose which lamp is nice.
reflector id OK, but I think it is 65mm x 70mm, all of sharp in your web are 65mm x 70mm.
what do you think?
Hi fill_soft
you need 150w jyd/ac lamp.
you can try it on the PMA161X now, dont bother;-)
about the Sharp PG-M15X DLP projector, I have not inf of UHL.the UH like ultra-high, but the life is 1000Hr only, that like MHL. can you find some inf of UHL?
but I found the Osram VIP-R 120/12, I think it like your VIP-R 120/20, in this pdf, the lamp is High Pressure Mercury Discharge Lamps, it like jyd/ac.
http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/globalcitizenship/environment/pdf/L1515A_PSDS.pdf
in the you give me web, Sharp PG-M15X need VIP-R 120 too.
If you like, you can send back the jys and your ballast to me so I can choose which lamp is nice.
reflector id OK, but I think it is 65mm x 70mm, all of sharp in your web are 65mm x 70mm.
what do you think?
Hi fill_soft
you need 150w jyd/ac lamp.
Attachments
Hi ywh,
The bulb is working perfectly on the PMA161X now. I won't do something stupid like test the lamp on an unkown ballast again!
Almost all the metallic-looking coating has gone from the inside of the bulb now as I let it run for a few minutes on the PMA161X. The bulb still smoked slightly at first, but this is probably just dust etc.
Is it normal for these lamps to need to vaporise some metals or something when they're first used? Or, is it more likely that I was using a JYd type ballast on this JYs lamp which caused the problem of the metallic coating?
All is fine now, but I just need to decide which projector to put it in. I only have a reflector for the Proxima DS-1, so I might have to use it in that for now. I recently bought a nice Sharp PG-M15X XGA DLP projector and managed to repair it's power supply, but I don't have a reflector for it.
Also, the lamp housing on the sharp is very small. I've attached a photo of the Sharp's lamp housing with some rough measurements on it. You can see that there are two fan vents at the sides of the housing which force air into the front of the original lamp. (the hole to the right-hand side of the housing is where the front of the lamp "points". The colour wheel is directly behind the hole.)
When I finally found a photo of the original lamp the other day, it seems to have one of those box-shaped things on the front of the reflector with a UV filter on the front. The box part obviously must have fit between the two vents in the lamp housing. So, unless I modify the Sharp to move the air vents out of the way, I just need a very small reflector which would fit AFTER the fan vents, but still focus the light well onto the colour wheel?
However, if I used the new JYs lamp in the Proxima, I already have the reflector for it. I'll have to move our LED experiments to the Sharp and try to fit everything in that. Early experiments with the Sharp and the jumbo LEDs showed promise. With only seven jumbo LEDs, it actually produced a watchable picture! (in a darkened room and only a 1-foot wide image). At least the Sharp should be FAR more light-efficient than the Proxima, it's just a shame because I wanted to use the Sharp as my main projector (XGA, HDTV, DVI input etc.)
So, if anyone has any suggestions for what I could use as a reflector for the Sharp, I'd be very grateful.
OzOnE.
The bulb is working perfectly on the PMA161X now. I won't do something stupid like test the lamp on an unkown ballast again!
Almost all the metallic-looking coating has gone from the inside of the bulb now as I let it run for a few minutes on the PMA161X. The bulb still smoked slightly at first, but this is probably just dust etc.
Is it normal for these lamps to need to vaporise some metals or something when they're first used? Or, is it more likely that I was using a JYd type ballast on this JYs lamp which caused the problem of the metallic coating?
All is fine now, but I just need to decide which projector to put it in. I only have a reflector for the Proxima DS-1, so I might have to use it in that for now. I recently bought a nice Sharp PG-M15X XGA DLP projector and managed to repair it's power supply, but I don't have a reflector for it.
Also, the lamp housing on the sharp is very small. I've attached a photo of the Sharp's lamp housing with some rough measurements on it. You can see that there are two fan vents at the sides of the housing which force air into the front of the original lamp. (the hole to the right-hand side of the housing is where the front of the lamp "points". The colour wheel is directly behind the hole.)
When I finally found a photo of the original lamp the other day, it seems to have one of those box-shaped things on the front of the reflector with a UV filter on the front. The box part obviously must have fit between the two vents in the lamp housing. So, unless I modify the Sharp to move the air vents out of the way, I just need a very small reflector which would fit AFTER the fan vents, but still focus the light well onto the colour wheel?
However, if I used the new JYs lamp in the Proxima, I already have the reflector for it. I'll have to move our LED experiments to the Sharp and try to fit everything in that. Early experiments with the Sharp and the jumbo LEDs showed promise. With only seven jumbo LEDs, it actually produced a watchable picture! (in a darkened room and only a 1-foot wide image). At least the Sharp should be FAR more light-efficient than the Proxima, it's just a shame because I wanted to use the Sharp as my main projector (XGA, HDTV, DVI input etc.)
So, if anyone has any suggestions for what I could use as a reflector for the Sharp, I'd be very grateful.
OzOnE.
Attachments
Hi OzOnE_2k3
that lamp can work yet, but lost some life;-(
it is not normal for these lamps to need to vaporise some metals inside of the bulb. you have burned it.
the Sharp PG-M15X XGA is DLP type. you need accurately install the bulb, and accurately install the reflector , if not , you will burn the color wheel, so that is very hard to do it if you have not the original lamp and lamp holder,
I find this , but I can not sure this picture is true.
http://detail.zol.com.cn/79/78088/param.shtml
this reflector is in my hand, 45mm*45mm
that lamp can work yet, but lost some life;-(
it is not normal for these lamps to need to vaporise some metals inside of the bulb. you have burned it.
the Sharp PG-M15X XGA is DLP type. you need accurately install the bulb, and accurately install the reflector , if not , you will burn the color wheel, so that is very hard to do it if you have not the original lamp and lamp holder,
I find this , but I can not sure this picture is true.
http://detail.zol.com.cn/79/78088/param.shtml
this reflector is in my hand, 45mm*45mm
Attachments
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