Your power supply is not setup properly. Please refer to this youtube guide that I made of another member.
You must always, always, always confirm your supply voltages before you connect anything to your amplifier.
The schematic and the build guide will references these voltages as well.
Oh my, I was looking so hard at the board components I completely missed the power supply was connected 😱 Yeah, I don't think you'll get far in testing with it connected like that (its shouldn't have done any damage if R109 was at max resistance) , you need to establish the dual rails - a positive +30V rail, a "0V" (GND) and a negative -30V rail. As Daniel picture and Stuarts video show. Best of luck.
Ok guys, I understand what you are saying. I'm not quite sure how to accomplish it with my power supply. Can I get +30 V out of one channel and -30 V out of channel 2 by putting the channels in parallel? To get my 0 Volts do I physically have to connect the negative (black) output on channel 1 and the positive (red) output on channel 2 and run that to the PSU ground terminal on the pcb?
I appreciate the help. I've only had that bench power supply since the beginning of the year.
John
I appreciate the help. I've only had that bench power supply since the beginning of the year.
John
Yes, but this is a series connection, not parallel.
Check the power supply manual, let us know if you need a hand
Quick rough example. Your two channels get connected in series.
Why doesn't it fit? Transistors closer together? Or it will not fit the on the heatsink?
Could the transistors be connected to the PCB through short wires? Or is that a no-go?
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Hello @Gianluca thank you for your reply, What is the difference between these two Dissipante 5U chassis?
https://modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=235
and
https://modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&path=242&product_id=784
Do wither come with a screen printed rear panel like the DIYAUDIO store version of your 5U chassis (see here: https://diyaudiostore.com/products/2025-deluxe-chassis-5u)?
@All are most people choosing this 5U chassis over a 4U chassis for the EF3-4 stereo configuration?
Differences are noted in the specs.
You likely would not prefer the diyAudio deluxe chassis, because it already has the UMS heatsink pattern included, and that pattern does not match what you need for (most) Wolverine builds.
No. However, the Deluxe version does have pre-cut holes for a PEM, binding posts, and inputs.
With that said, @Gianluca can likely make one to your exact requirements. My many experiences working with them have been incredible. I usually just chat with G in using the function on their website and then confirm a summary via e-mail to ensure we got it all nailed down. If I don't take the time to summarize, I inevitably forget a critical detail.
FWIW - I like space to work and cooler heatsinks ... so I typically go with the biggest chassis I have room to use / have budget to include. Plus, with very rare exception, my chassis get used for multiple projects, so it's nice to have a few larger ones. YMMV.
Ok, checked the UNI T power supply manual. In series mode CH1 is the positive output and CH2 is negative just as you have marked above. Voltage and current can only be adjusted in CH1, and the CH2 settings will follow those of CH1.
The series voltage total value is twice as much as CH1, and the current total value equals that of CH1.
Thanks,
John
Ok Stuart. Thanks for the advice. I did watch your YouTube video on the subject.
John