Keep in mind that it doesn't have to be structurally super strong if you're going to pot it. The attachment welds inside the frame can be tack welds and then seal the seam with silicon sealant before potting. The potting material will provide the necessary structural strength. Sealing the wire penetrations, if you go in the downward direction, is obviously important to prevent leaks while potting... I route the wires through grommets and seal them with silicon sealer. I provide a tube down the middle of the toroid for a bolt, which actually becomes the primary attachment point. I usually only pot about 3/4 of the depth of the toroid just to allow any heat to escape. I hope this helps...
Nice chassis, please post the details were you got it fromI'm making some progress on my mono blocks. Waiting on speaker terminal connectors for the almost completed amp. Assembling the 2nd amp, passed initial tests with bench power supply, finishing the regular power supply to test further.
View attachment 1077486View attachment 1077484
Your build is amazing Neil and really shows what can be achieved with a well thought out layout.Hi everyone... I've shared my build on the developers thread and it's time to put it out there for others to consider...
My intention from the outset was to build a quad amp to bi-amp my speakers.😆
Very impressive.
I made an elevated chassis for the PSU to provide enough space underneath the transformer and cap board for the necessary peripherals. As well, I wanted to provide shielding for the transformer and other sources of noise. The attached photos show how this was arranged. which really worked out well. I was concerned about injecting noise with all the close proximity of everything, but the shielding did its job and testing revealed that it's quiet. Distortion testing revealed that the individual boards didn't lose any performance,
Did you test the noise levels with and without the shielding? Just curious how much the shielding is contributing to noise reduction. Not the platform, since that's structural, but the circular can around the transformer.
It was a special purchase from the diyAudio Store. I have two of the chassis and built them identical since there is no mirror image board.Nice chassis, please post the details were you got it from
I didn't do any testing to determine the noise levels with and without shielding... I recognized that everything was going to be in close proximity, so I decided to do everything I could to minimize any noise sources. I was concerned about the input and output wiring having to take long paths within the chassis, but it turned out fine.... It's quiet and I can't see anything on the distortion analyzer. The chassis I used is the Deluxe 5U from DIY Audio Store.
If it isn't a big effort,please can you post the modified pcb?I also modded the Bonsai board to run both opto-couplers in series on one set of FET's, will decrease the switching time. You can see the red wires grafted to the Bonsai board.
I lifted one leg of one opti-coupler, connected to a source lead, and soldered a wire to it and soldered the other end into the gate terminal of the other FET holes. Then soldered another wire in the other FET source hole and soldered the other end to one of the FET source legs. I could do this because I am using a board in each amp only controling one channel each. The actual board itself was not modified, a more correct description would be I modified the wiring of the board. If it was being used for two channels it would be difficult to wire the two opti-couplers in series, probably easier in parallel. Their was some discussion on Bonsai's thread about wether the parallel opti-couplers decreased the switch time. Of course, connecting in series doubles the voltage the opti-couplers put out, parallel connection doubles the current the opti-couplers put out.


Thanks for this RickRay!I lifted one leg of one opti-coupler, connected to a source lead, and soldered a wire to it and soldered the other end into the gate terminal of the other FET holes. Then soldered another wire in the other FET source hole and soldered the other end to one of the FET source legs. I could do this because I am using a board in each amp only controling one channel each. The actual board itself was not modified, a more correct description would be I modified the wiring of the board. If it was being used for two channels it would be difficult to wire the two opti-couplers in series, probably easier in parallel. Their was some discussion on Bonsai's thread about wether the parallel opti-couplers decreased the switch time. Of course, connecting in series doubles the voltage the opti-couplers put out, parallel connection doubles the current the opti-couplers put out.
View attachment 1079914
Build all,you will never disappointed .Was there any comparision done with Virtual Zero Audio ODNF and Tribute-3000 amplifiers after this build ?
Listen by self in your own place,using your speakers,then you will know the differences if any.
Hi all,
I have spent a fair bit of time recently improving my THD measurement setup to be able to measure the Wolverine amplifier.
I think this may have to be a topic in the next video.......
- Dan
I have spent a fair bit of time recently improving my THD measurement setup to be able to measure the Wolverine amplifier.
I think this may have to be a topic in the next video.......
- Dan
E1DA cosmos ADC with a good non inductive load resistor ( or alternatively speaker load simulator) is all I can imagine anyone making amps would ever need
cheap, really easy to get 114 thd+n on the 43vrms input.
cheap, really easy to get 114 thd+n on the 43vrms input.
Hi Mainframe99,E1DA cosmos ADC with a good non inductive load resistor ( or alternatively speaker load simulator) is all I can imagine anyone making amps would ever need
cheap, really easy to get 114 thd+n on the 43vrms input.
The Comsos E1DA looks interesting but we are looking deeper than this level.
- Dan
The Cosmos APU may help, it has a 30dB notch filter at 1kHz and 10kHz along with a +60dB low noise amplifier.
Hi All,
A long time 'lurker' here, my first post on this forum so please be gentle! I decided to post on this Build Thread as it seemed to be where someone may be best placed to answer my query.
I've been following this project with interest for quite some time and read just about everything (I think!) on the various Wolverine forums, and the discussions have been fascinating and informative all the way through.
First of all, I must extend much praise and admiration indeed to all the Wolverine Team - what a fantastic project, and my respect to all those involved in its development for your collective knowledge, perseverance, dedication and determination (not to mention personal cost!) in order to enable this project to reach the stage it's at now, truly inspirational!
Wolverine looks to be an amazing amplifier, but unless I've missed something (quite possible!) all I seem to be able to find so far are very encouraging frequency tests, THD measurements and so on. So, a pretty obvious basic question I need to ask to anyone who's managed to complete their build is - does it sound as good as it's pedigree suggests it should?
Don't get me wrong, there's absolutely nothing to suggest that it shouldn't sound anything other than just spectacular in doing what it's intended to do (i.e., play music) - it's just that I don't seem able to find any information or review that confirms that ... or otherwise?
Like many others, I'm excited about joining the current group buy to obtain some boards and start assembling what would seem to be a great amp. It's just that last year I completed a My_Ref Fremen Edition dual mono-block amp build (based on LM3886) and to my old and perhaps weary ears that sounds terrific. Hence, I'd like to think the Wolverine might take my listening pleasure up a further notch or two, should I build it.
Is anyone able to put my mind at rest before I take the plunge?
Apologies in advance if this is posted in the wrong place, or if it offends anyone!
Many thanks!
A long time 'lurker' here, my first post on this forum so please be gentle! I decided to post on this Build Thread as it seemed to be where someone may be best placed to answer my query.
I've been following this project with interest for quite some time and read just about everything (I think!) on the various Wolverine forums, and the discussions have been fascinating and informative all the way through.
First of all, I must extend much praise and admiration indeed to all the Wolverine Team - what a fantastic project, and my respect to all those involved in its development for your collective knowledge, perseverance, dedication and determination (not to mention personal cost!) in order to enable this project to reach the stage it's at now, truly inspirational!

Wolverine looks to be an amazing amplifier, but unless I've missed something (quite possible!) all I seem to be able to find so far are very encouraging frequency tests, THD measurements and so on. So, a pretty obvious basic question I need to ask to anyone who's managed to complete their build is - does it sound as good as it's pedigree suggests it should?
Don't get me wrong, there's absolutely nothing to suggest that it shouldn't sound anything other than just spectacular in doing what it's intended to do (i.e., play music) - it's just that I don't seem able to find any information or review that confirms that ... or otherwise?
Like many others, I'm excited about joining the current group buy to obtain some boards and start assembling what would seem to be a great amp. It's just that last year I completed a My_Ref Fremen Edition dual mono-block amp build (based on LM3886) and to my old and perhaps weary ears that sounds terrific. Hence, I'd like to think the Wolverine might take my listening pleasure up a further notch or two, should I build it.
Is anyone able to put my mind at rest before I take the plunge?
Apologies in advance if this is posted in the wrong place, or if it offends anyone!
Many thanks!
We are using the distortion magnifier by Bob Cordell. Notches of 60dB or more can be achieved.Just the notch would be used for high power amps.
We are also using the RME ADI-2 pro fs r black edition combined with the auto ranger for our testing
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