^ .."You also need to find at good place for it that is stable."
Stable is one thing, mass is another. Most tables need a massive base, but others ( like Linn ) need a low mass base... but they all need a rigid, stable base.
I cringe when I see all of those adds for component racks that get assembled together with a $500 table on it. You just know it can never sound right.
OK, I promise, I'm done discussing TTs in this tread. Back to the P3 for me.
Stable is one thing, mass is another. Most tables need a massive base, but others ( like Linn ) need a low mass base... but they all need a rigid, stable base.
I cringe when I see all of those adds for component racks that get assembled together with a $500 table on it. You just know it can never sound right.
OK, I promise, I'm done discussing TTs in this tread. Back to the P3 for me.
Lol… no. Geometry is geometry and there are very good reasons to have the bend, but there are very good examples of both straight and curve.
Whatever.
Wet is important and vacuum is one way to do it. Ultrasonic is at least 3x better. I never used my VPI cleaner ever again after getting an ultrasonic cleaner.
I like this.
Doesn’t matter.
Wasted? No. Are cleaner records always better? Yes, unquestionably.
The ”no bent tonearm” thing is hilarious.
I’ve had one of those. Pretty nice.
This is true.
It looks pretty, and if you store the boards for any length of time in a warehouse they are WAY easier to solder. It’s worth a couple of cents just for that to me. Hard gold finish is a different matter.
Lenco L75/L78 is a simple, elegant and reliable design. Jean Nantais is (relatively) famous for rediscovered it and transformed it in a high end machine. Go to Lenco heaven and have a read. Perfect for guy like me who does not have 10k$ to put on an old Garrard 301 with grease bearing.
You know.. I like tweaking people in jest, in a friendly manner, (1) you met me... My arms are bent at the elbow.... so when I play records, I make a point of keeping my arms straight... the principle of quantum entanglement at a macro analog level. In your case, with your bent tonearm, you might want to keep your arms bent... although the Technics S might be hard to achieve (2)
Yeah, I have been looking at ultrasonic cleaning, what machine do you have? I've seen some kits that are reasonably priced and nicely DIY'd.
I'd be worried of buying a used wet vacuum LP cleaner unless I knew the provenance. Those things get gunky inside if you don't set them up to drain the spent mojo fluid.
P3.... I saw your P3 build pictures. Why didn't you mount DIP sockets for the op amps? Will the SMD design, not hole through, be weaker for the socket?
(1) I think NP didn't understand it my joke ( Note to self... don't use an obtuse joke as a way of introduction )... He had those "deer in the headlights look".. he probably thinks I'm nuts. I sure hope he doesn't get a restraining order for BA24..
(2) I broke my arm badly once... it was a 90 deg break... like a Garrad Zero 100. Yikes! Hmmm... I didn't bother to listen to music when that happened!
http://www.thevintageknob.org/garrard-Zero_100.html
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Just a "nerd" question about matching the filter components to 0.1%:
Was the matching done to get as close to the values at schematic (standard values) or was matching done to the "real" values that came out of the filter calculation (I assume that calculation ends up with some theoretical values and then close standard values are selected)?
With respect to matching components in the RIAA network -- you want the components of each channel to match closely, thus the response of both channels will be similar. "Golden ears", i.e. those suffering from "audio-nervosa" will be able to detect a difference. When I get the time, I will demonstrate the differences in response with 0.1%, 1% and 10% matching. (Wife is dragging me to a museum at the moment).
Hello All,
I taught soldering and brazing among other things to the Building Trades for more than a few years. It is about being clean, as in bright and shinny, and using flux core solder. In the spirit of bright and shinny buff the solder as it comes off the roll with #0000 steel wool.
I wash the PCB's with Deionized water and Dawn detergent. Rinse with D.I. water and then a final rinse with 90% alcohol. The PCB's dry quickly with nothing but shine on them. Keep your grimy oily mitts off the clean PCB's.
Many of the resistors in the crate on my shelf are years Old New Stock. Again in the spirit of bright and shinny I use #0000 steel wool to buff up the component leads.
With everything clean you can watch the solder wick (capillary action) through the hole forming that perfect cone on the PCB top side.
Sometimes I cheat and put a little dab more solder on the top side of the PCB. However there is always that little puddle of flux that tells on me when I do.
Thanks DT
he knows that you are, conditio sine qua non - someone to even think of being present at BAF
as being present here, anyway
O.M.G.
Look at this, @Mark Johnson , in the time between the end of BAF and now has secretly designed and prototyped this amazing upgrade…
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...rl-3-psu-into-its-own-distant-chassis.404413/
Look at this, @Mark Johnson , in the time between the end of BAF and now has secretly designed and prototyped this amazing upgrade…
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...rl-3-psu-into-its-own-distant-chassis.404413/
Here’s an interesting conundrum… the next plinth I build will hold 2 arms, one will be straight, and the other curved. What the heck does one do in that situation??
I have a CleanerVinyl Easy 6 sitting on the cheap Amazon tank. I absolutely love it.
1), I’m going to build a few Pearl 3. 2) this one has the SMD soldered directly to the PCB as that’s what Wayne had on his and I want a point of somewhat similar reference. 3) The next one will have a socket.
.."Here’s an interesting conundrum… the next plinth I build will hold 2 arms, one will be straight, and the other curved. What the heck does one do in that situation??"
My only concern under such circumstances...
Is it better having one Super Duper turntable/tonearm/cartridge setup or two Super turntable/tonearm/cartridge setups?
With the P3 I can solve that, it seems, by concentrating my money/effort on a single front end and then driving an SE and Balanced amp chain... that way I can affored the $2000 cartridge instead of two $1000 one... Not even mention the cost of two tonearms....
Sure, that means no optical cartridge.... but as I have come to peace that I will never have a SWB Ferrari GTO, and I'm fine with that, I guess I'll have to come to the realization that something like an Ortofon Cadenza Black might be as far as I want to go ( with a used Ekos.... might do Ekos SE if the price is right ).. and of course a Lingo 4...
In your case, simple, hold you arm straight and bend the elbow on the other... now, if you ever get a Micro Seiki with THREE tonearms... then, you, hmm... hmm....
My only concern under such circumstances...
Is it better having one Super Duper turntable/tonearm/cartridge setup or two Super turntable/tonearm/cartridge setups?
With the P3 I can solve that, it seems, by concentrating my money/effort on a single front end and then driving an SE and Balanced amp chain... that way I can affored the $2000 cartridge instead of two $1000 one... Not even mention the cost of two tonearms....
Sure, that means no optical cartridge.... but as I have come to peace that I will never have a SWB Ferrari GTO, and I'm fine with that, I guess I'll have to come to the realization that something like an Ortofon Cadenza Black might be as far as I want to go ( with a used Ekos.... might do Ekos SE if the price is right ).. and of course a Lingo 4...
In your case, simple, hold you arm straight and bend the elbow on the other... now, if you ever get a Micro Seiki with THREE tonearms... then, you, hmm... hmm....
It sounds like merde.... but this is the tonearm when you can't decide between straight, twisted, curved, linear, laser..
Those Yoga positions will be required...
Just imagine those shaded dogs stacked on the spindle... falling four inches onto spinning vinyl below...
This definitely will be a Pearl 3 Before Swine affair..
Those Yoga positions will be required...
Just imagine those shaded dogs stacked on the spindle... falling four inches onto spinning vinyl below...
This definitely will be a Pearl 3 Before Swine affair..
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Ordinarily, the T5 combination would be set by C5 x R15 = 75us (assuming that the impedance of R18+C8 is very low.)
In this design, R13 x C3 are used to set T5, and C5 is set to a nominal 100pF (T=3.3us) Is the phase relationship then correct?
Here's a simulation with C5 = 100pF and 7.5nF
In this design, R13 x C3 are used to set T5, and C5 is set to a nominal 100pF (T=3.3us) Is the phase relationship then correct?
Here's a simulation with C5 = 100pF and 7.5nF
Attachments
You said it..cluttering da thread, a little?
you and Meper should receive a Prize for that
I mean - if cluttering, do it in non-serious way, no waste of energy then
conditio sine qua non
Ok, I'm happy with upcoming P3, set up for rolling op amps, dual chassis.
Gonna be a Happy 2024 winter.