What did you last repair?

My Naim Nap300 DR, the power switch stuck on and could not be turned off by pressing the on/off button on the front. It turns out that Naim in their wisdom use a standard latching pushbutton complete with it's own, 'standard'? return spring, they then put their own turned aluminium button which sits in front of the standard one and pushes against it, in line. This fancy button has its own spring and offers additional friction/resistnace to move it. So when it comes to switching off the poor old standard switch return spring has to push against its own switch resistance, the resistnace of the extra fancy button, plus the additional spring which naim added to keep their button pushed up agaist the one that actually does somethig useful.

It doesnt take much dust or grime to stop the whole thing working as I dont suppose that the orginal switch spring was designed to push all this other stuff about! A clean up and some lube helped it on its way but i can see this being a reocuring issue when the spring weakens with time. Duh!
 
We have a big chandelier over our formal dining room, one by one, each of the five 12V 50W bulbs went out...I'd buy new halogen bulbs...they'd last a little time. As each went out, the ceramic connections would get worse & worse. Well, I took it down, damn heavy thing, thought it was the seeming brass structure, no...a 220v to 12V toroidal at 250VA ...each of the ceramic sockets had "cooked off" their wires.
I kept the toroidal TX & converted all the halogens to 30K hr LEDS with new ceramic sockets.

Let's see. each bulb at two-watts, times five?? I'd bet the unloaded draw is near to the driven draw @ 10W. That toroidal TX rather poking along.





-----------------------------------------------------------------------Rick........
 
Repaired my Grado Sr-60 headphones. One channel was cutting out, and found one of the cables near the junction
of the left and right cables was bad. Cut that out, attached a Switchcraft stereo 1/8" plug to the two cables
from the headphones, and then attached a Switchcraft stereo 1/8" jack to the end of the cut stereo cable.
Plug them together, and it works. Much easier than replacing the whole thing.
 
Nothing like a crisply ironed shirt and some good aftershave to make a chap good IMO. 😀

All went horribly wrong this afternoon. My man Jeeves on his day off. Filled ironing gadget up to recommended level with water. Then aforementioned ironing gadget splashed water all over my claret shirt and seemed to go cold. 😱

A Phillips Mistral 32. Ah well, dons facemask and up the road to ye olde charite shoppe. "Due to Covid-19 infestations we are closed on Mondays."

EW. Come home and wretched gadget still not working. Swap fuse into table lamp, and that doesn't work either. 😕

Ah wait. It's power trip on main junction box! Flipped the trip, put fuse back in and Happy Days. Old Wooster looking Top of the Town again. 😀
 
Yes! I'm an absolute slob by most metrics, but for some reason I still iron my shirts, heh.

With that said: I am somewhat mystified by the fact that many of the most cartoonishly egregious design flaws I've ever observed have been perpetrated in the very category of handheld steam irons. I have wondered, more than once, why this might be.

I won't bore with details. (I actually just tried to type out a couple of examples, and found myself sinking slowly into a pool of despair, so I stopped.)
 
Restored KEF Coda III

Hi

I restored a pair of KEF Coda III back into working condition for a family member.

- New ferrofluid for the tweeters
- New capacitors for the cross-over
- 2 new Monacor SPH-210 bass-midrange speakers

Tom
 

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Utility trailer. On Saturday I fitted a tube to the spare, and rigged up a mount using a "universal" mounting bracket. Monday I straightened the license plate, added an LED plate light. Most importantly, changed over what I guess was a dated or non-standard version of the 4 pin connector to a current replacement that should make good contact with all our cars.
 
Fixed my favourite, oversized camping chair. Used iron on elbow patches to reinforce high stress areas of the chair where the nylon wore through.

Played around with cheap Chinese 12V LED bulbs. The kind that look like bare PCB's barely held together with a paucity of solder. Turns out that is exactly what they are barely held together with tiny cold solder joints, and just using a resistor to mimic the less bright parking filament. From now on I will PM with glue before installing. I fixed a couple of broken ones, and epoxied one into a side marker body, which will now become a ridiculously bright marker.
 
I played with those LED car bulbs when they were using 5050 SMD and the like. I found a couple that actually worked without load resistors (Canbus) but eventually I swapped them for halogen after being told I had no brake lights (they were working, just not bright enough to see in direct sunlight apparently).

When I tried Sylvania LED lamps for the brake lights I couldn't even code out the errors. The car just rejected them!

Now I have a car with LED lighting from the factory 🙂
 
There definately is a learning curve with them, but I don't give up easily.
It takes a LOT of SMD LED's to get the same light as an incandescent. Plus you have to buy the correct colour: if you put the cheap white ones, invariably 6000K, in a tinted lens, you lose a tremendous amount of lumens to filtering.
It's all fun.
 
Right now I'm repairing my BMW530XI, which got a Fuel problem for sometimes, I never really had the time to look at..

A couple days ago I exchanged the Valve Cover on the Engine, because it drew "false air" into the system, and now *tomorrow or Saturday* I need to exchange the High Pressure Fuel Pump on that car.. I already bought it yesterday for 1000 Swiss francs = 1095USD approximately and it will take some 5 hours work,, All the Intake Bridge has to come down prior to be able to change the HPFP.. This is a 3Lt. Row 6 with N53B30 Engine with 272 Horse Power..Parts are really expensive.. Luckily I have a second Car, so have enough time to repair this one.. BMW GARAGE is asking too much for the Repair.. When I was young I studied Auto-mechanic.. so it's not a problem which can't be solved.. I will place some Pics when I'm on it.. Engine is not open yet.. because I wish to finish this in one term on one day..
 
Waterpump N53

Hi
Yea, I have had BMW 530XI Touring with the N52 As well,. Very decent car.

But the N53 has more push.. much more.. and it's intelligent Gear shifting shifts the gears a lot faster and more accurate than the N52
The positive on the N52, nothing much which actually breaks on the engine.. a dream of a car..
Water pump will cost 1800USD for the N53, it's electrically and I changed mine about 30K ago..is almost the same for the N52.. if you change it at BMW.,, if you have a friend who fixes cars then you should be good with about 1000USD.. Pump is on the marked, a good one which works.. around 400, it takes 3 hours to change and then another hour to initialize.. MAKE sure to change it, the engine will cost 20'000 if it gets bad because of the Water-pump. Don't forget the N52 as well as the N54 and also N53 are all Aluminum engines.. no more like in the old days.,. so if you haven't replaced the WP, and if there is need, to replace then DO IT..

I have ISTA, have also Rheingold, and of course INPA..

The HPFP should deliver 200BAR Pressure to the RAIL and it just delivers 4 BAR.. hehehe, that's far from enough..and it's none of the HP-Sensor not the LP Sensor.. it's the HPFP itself..
Thanks for answering and tomorrow, I guess will get it done..


USE this if you need to know anything about your BMW.. I thinks it is in english as well.. one of the best online sites for BMW's Repairs.. newTIS.info


Regards Chris
 
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I was lucky. I got a high milage (225000km 2011 328 Xdrive) for 6000CAD 16 months ago. So far it owes me about 2000$ in service/parts excluding the brake upgrade. That includes the A/C compressor with the rubber sandwich in the pulley (it sheared off). Thanks, Denzo!
 
Hi
Yea, I have had BMW 530XI Touring with the N52 As well,. Very decent car.

But the N53 has more push.. much more.. and it's intelligent Gear shifting shifts the gears a lot faster and more accurate than the N52
The positive on the N52, nothing much which actually breaks on the engine.. a dream of a car..
Water pump will cost 1800USD for the N53, it's electrically and I changed mine about 30K ago..is almost the same for the N52.. if you change it at BMW.,, if you have a friend who fixes cars then you should be good with about 1000USD.. Pump is on the marked, a good one which works.. around 400, it takes 3 hours to change and then another hour to initialize.. MAKE sure to change it, the engine will cost 20'000 if it gets bad because of the Water-pump. Don't forget the N52 as well as the N54 and also N53 are all Aluminum engines.. no more like in the old days.,. so if you haven't replaced the WP, and if there is need, to replace then DO IT..

I have ISTA, have also Rheingold, and of course INPA..

The HPFP should deliver 200BAR Pressure to the RAIL and it just delivers 4 BAR.. hehehe, that's far from enough..and it's none of the HP-Sensor not the LP Sensor.. it's the HPFP itself..
Thanks for answering and tomorrow, I guess will get it done..


USE this if you need to know anything about your BMW.. I thinks it is in english as well.. one of the best online sites for BMW's Repairs.. newTIS.info


Regards Chris

1 hour to initialize the pump? The automatic bleeding cycle takes only 15 minutes.
It's a good Idea to change the thermostat at the same time as you change the pump. I had to do the job two times since the termostat failed shortly after changing the water pump.

I just sold my 325i with n52b25 and 6 speed manual. I started regretting it at the moment it backed out of my driveway.
 

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