Cannot comment on these, but remember reading an opinion that the Alps sounds a little bright with these amps. I've had excellent results with this (think it is an 'Omeg'):
Dual Potentiometer Logarithmic 47K Variable Resistor | eBay
Also tried the following which is more pricey (for entertainment see what 'hifi collective' charge for this!). Mine had very poor channel matching at lower volumes and my impression was did not sound quite as good as the one above, although still acceptable once you get past the lower volume channel matching problem. (I guess it is possible mine was an ebay fake, but the engraving was exactly like illustrations of real ones and build quality was solid).
1pc Cosmos Tocos Potentiometer RV24YG 24mm A 50K? x2 Log Japan | eBay
50K Tocos Cosmos RV24 Stereo Potentiometer Hifi Collective
I've also been wondering what these Nichicons can do. ESR is rated just 7mΩ. However, they are only rated up to 16V but since some are willing to experiment with 6.3V rated caps maybe some of you would be interested in comparing them to OSCONs?
Way cool!
Personally I would never consider under specing a caps voltage - why would you risk it?
Do you have any more info on this board? Sure and TI eval are the only tpa3110 boards of which I'm aware. If there are others, I'm interested!
Advance Controls makes the board ebayseller audiobah sells and now has been copied by YJ. They also make 3110 amps, a stereo btl and a mono pbtl version, and offer a 2A 15V smps powersupply for them (2A is max 3110 according to datasheet TI, so is enough), with 15V the pbtl boards are more powerfull then 3116 LOL size 50x50mm like hiampmini. and psu 50x100mm. Advance Controls prices for 3116 (audiobah)~ $8, stereo3110 ~$4 mono 3110 ~$3, 15V2A psu ~ $5. 3110 pbtl unmodded sounds a little warmer then "audiobah".
I was going to have a play with the sure tpa3110 board in an active setup,
has anybody bridged the sure tpa3110 board??
If so, is it straightforward getting hold of the pin/traces?
has anybody bridged the sure tpa3110 board??
If so, is it straightforward getting hold of the pin/traces?
A totally noob question:
I'm starting to assebmle my first amp. It happens to be a TPA3116, the red stereo one.
Questions:
- what sizew ires do I use for signal? I don't have the connector, so I think I could solder through board?
- size of wires for output? My speaker cables are 2x2,5mm2. Must they be the same from amp to terminal or is there somehigher science behind?
I'm starting to assebmle my first amp. It happens to be a TPA3116, the red stereo one.
Questions:
- what sizew ires do I use for signal? I don't have the connector, so I think I could solder through board?
- size of wires for output? My speaker cables are 2x2,5mm2. Must they be the same from amp to terminal or is there somehigher science behind?
RHING,
What was the performance outcome if any, in swapping out the CoilCraft 10uH SER2915l-103KL for the smaller 222uH CoilCraft MSS1583-223MEB SMD as noted in the post below.
😀
What was the performance outcome if any, in swapping out the CoilCraft 10uH SER2915l-103KL for the smaller 222uH CoilCraft MSS1583-223MEB SMD as noted in the post below.
😀
I'm planning to use my YJ black board to run my bass shakers (attached to the couch). I have four of them and they are 4ohm each, so I understood that by connecting them in 2s2p formation I would end up with a 4ohm solution.
I was planning to run the board in PBTL but I'm not exactly sure how I should do that, which components to remove etc. I understood some of you have done a PBTL mod but a photo of the mod would be great.
Do you think I would benefit from upgrading some of the components, like the DC power caps or output filter coils? Sibilance is probably not an issue in this use but reaching the lowest frequencies and getting enough power to the shakers might be.
I'll be running this off a 19V/5.2A laptop brick.
I was planning to run the board in PBTL but I'm not exactly sure how I should do that, which components to remove etc. I understood some of you have done a PBTL mod but a photo of the mod would be great.
Do you think I would benefit from upgrading some of the components, like the DC power caps or output filter coils? Sibilance is probably not an issue in this use but reaching the lowest frequencies and getting enough power to the shakers might be.
I'll be running this off a 19V/5.2A laptop brick.
If I remembered correctly, the typical YJ boards come with 100 uH inductor and are designed for 4 ohm speaker loads. The PBTL version will handle loads as low as 2 ohm. So, if your speakers are 4 ohm nominal, the amp board "as-is" should be fine.
Regards,
*10uH.
Also note, the PBTL version won't give you much more power than BTL with a 4ohm load. As mentioned though, in PBTL mode you can drive a 2 ohm load and develop more power (thanks to higher current output ability of the chip in PBTL).
DC electrolytics YJblue if Jamicon barely function, you can also add additional caps offboard on DC-input to help PSU, 100W PSU 19V isn't enough for 1 board and yes many other people use 50watt PSU and are very happy. If it doesn't deliver enough energy for the shakers just keep that in mind 😀
OK trying solids once again, Oscons on pcb first, playing now for a day. Anybody noticed they needed longer to settle/burn in? The Panasonic hybrids do not improve I feel, but Oscons???
Wanted to put the board into a lego box earlier, but when I hooked it up to check if the signal connection is soldered okay, I just couldnt unhook it. Still listening to the thing😀
The topping tp20 was not only too weak for chr70's in a fh3 box, but the sound also lacked some "body". This is THE thing. I don't really see why, but I may try some stingy mods. Someday. If I manage to give it enough off time😛
Here's the photo I'm not proud of..😛
The topping tp20 was not only too weak for chr70's in a fh3 box, but the sound also lacked some "body". This is THE thing. I don't really see why, but I may try some stingy mods. Someday. If I manage to give it enough off time😛
Here's the photo I'm not proud of..😛
Attachments
So I am preparing for DUGs PBTL boards and I ordered a pair of PSU boards from john broskie at tubecad.com. these are regulated lv supplies and well filtered...dead quiet. I will be ready for "dual mono" when they arrive.
I got a toroid xformer from antek...200va 20v dual secondaries. Since it gets fed raw 28v at 4A after regulation I get exactly 24V after diode/regulator losses. Plus the TPA doesn't draw that much current.
I ran one of the supplies to my hotrodded blue boards and I must say it continues to impress the hell out of me. It thumps like a class ab but sounds like a SE tube amp...TI really worked some magic on this chip.
I got a toroid xformer from antek...200va 20v dual secondaries. Since it gets fed raw 28v at 4A after regulation I get exactly 24V after diode/regulator losses. Plus the TPA doesn't draw that much current.
I ran one of the supplies to my hotrodded blue boards and I must say it continues to impress the hell out of me. It thumps like a class ab but sounds like a SE tube amp...TI really worked some magic on this chip.
Very Nice!
So I am preparing for DUGs PBTL boards and I ordered a pair of PSU boards from john broskie at tubecad.com. these are regulated lv supplies and well filtered...dead quiet. I will be ready for "dual mono" when they arrive.
I got a toroid xformer from antek...200va 20v dual secondaries. Since it gets fed raw 28v at 4A after regulation I get exactly 24V after diode/regulator losses. Plus the TPA doesn't draw that much current.
I ran one of the supplies to my hotrodded blue boards and I must say it continues to impress the hell out of me. It thumps like a class ab but sounds like a SE tube amp...TI really worked some magic on this chip.