With current draws like that I would think a well designed unregulated linear supply with plenty of capacitance is the answer. In fact I am not sure I see the advantage of a regulated supply for a power amp as long as the supply is well filtered and big caps.
I really want to turn down volume pot, befor start up and more importantly befor shut down. Both popreduction measures/circuits do not function here, pop on shut down is louder then Ybdz's that has no popreduction and 10uF's, Sure has a loud crack after the regular pop that sounds real nasty when pot isn't closed. Simple DUG circuit and AC1308 work better on powerup, no circuit works better on shut down. Only board that doesn't even whisper at you on power up and shutdown remains the remotecontrolled PT2313 tpa3116 here. That doesn't mean Sure3116 is a bad amp, just that probably inputcircuitry makes pop worse.
Unregulated SMPS work very well with LazyCat's poweramps, VSSA/FirstOne. Also said to be superior in bass. But voltage here (3116)is very low, even 24V is lower then any unregulated SMPS I know, and I like lower voltages than that. So yes unregulated linear might be only/best choice ? Is Destroyer working on product strong enough for low impedance speakers?😉
So far I prefer the sound from the broskie supply versus the laptop brick. I really like broskie's / tubecad's boards and circuits. He puts a lot of thought in them and they are very versatile. I have many of his other PSU and amp boards.
Quote from the article...
The LV-Regulator uses a simple RC filter (1 ohm & 10kµF) as a pre-filter before the LDO regulator and holds bypass capacitors for all the electrolytic capacitors and a 4.7µF/400V polypropylene shunting capacitor at the output. The LV-Regulator can be set up as either a 5Vdc or 9Vdc regulator (or as a 12Vdc, if you want). It uses a 3A low-dropout regulator (LD1085) and two resistors set the output voltage value.
I think 24 is the max based upon the ld1085...one resistor value sets the output voltage...its really simple.
Quote from the article...
The LV-Regulator uses a simple RC filter (1 ohm & 10kµF) as a pre-filter before the LDO regulator and holds bypass capacitors for all the electrolytic capacitors and a 4.7µF/400V polypropylene shunting capacitor at the output. The LV-Regulator can be set up as either a 5Vdc or 9Vdc regulator (or as a 12Vdc, if you want). It uses a 3A low-dropout regulator (LD1085) and two resistors set the output voltage value.
I think 24 is the max based upon the ld1085...one resistor value sets the output voltage...its really simple.
Last edited:
I imagine, using the circuit he kindly provided me, its a matter of adequate capacitance. One of my 3316 PSUs has 40,000uf but not high end caps - Panasonic, TS-HA I think. But I am not driving low impedance speakers.
If you are using lower voltages there may be more affordable caps you could use. The Nichicon ones used with my DUG amps (63v rating) were fairly expensive and large.
I'm thinking of putting a softstart circuit like the one in diyaudio store :
New Soft Start & Speaker Turn-On Delay and DC Protector Boards (Set of 2 boards) - Power Supplies and Accessories - Circuit Boards
Any other idea maybe using the mute or standby pin on this board ?
I whacked 2 of these up doing a diy etch process...they work awesome and will work on DC as well...just a couple bucks in parts.
Here is my latest TPA3116. This one is the so called weiner. I'm not sure how best to ground it; any advice would be greatly appreciated. The only mods are the OSCON caps. Specs for the power supply from DigiKey are attached.
I have only played it with a pair of modified Harpoons from Wooden Design. All I can say is the amp sounds better than the YJ red board with the same speakers. I haven't tried any other comparisons so far. The overall sound is very pleasing but seems to lack the power of the YJ blue/black boards but that is probably due to the different power supplies.
I am having a great time building these little amps. Thanks to all you guys for all the help. 😀
I have only played it with a pair of modified Harpoons from Wooden Design. All I can say is the amp sounds better than the YJ red board with the same speakers. I haven't tried any other comparisons so far. The overall sound is very pleasing but seems to lack the power of the YJ blue/black boards but that is probably due to the different power supplies.
I am having a great time building these little amps. Thanks to all you guys for all the help. 😀
Attachments
I forgot to add- these boards are subject to the dreaded power up pop that seems to plague the 3116 amps 🙁
hi snake69fast,
what is the model of the Bourns Inductor?
Is the sound quality improvement obvious?
thks
kp93300
what is the model of the Bourns Inductor?
Is the sound quality improvement obvious?
thks
kp93300
Did the bootstraps and snubber mod on the hifi 2.0 wlx board, I got a recent revision that uses these grey unknown branded film caps all over. See photo 1
Swapped the bootstrap caps for TDK X7R ceramic caps, and did the bootstrap mod below. Definitely tamed some of the harshness and the sound is a little 'sweeter' for lack of a better term.
I didn't have any panasonic FMs available so I went ahead with Nichicon FGs on the DC power caps. I know they are an audio cap but it was all I had (I had lots of them lying around actually)
Replaced the little input caps between the heatsink and the Wima caps with nichicon FGs. This helped a lot because prior to that the amp sounded a bit duller than I remember.
Swapped the bootstrap caps for TDK X7R ceramic caps, and did the bootstrap mod below. Definitely tamed some of the harshness and the sound is a little 'sweeter' for lack of a better term.
I didn't have any panasonic FMs available so I went ahead with Nichicon FGs on the DC power caps. I know they are an audio cap but it was all I had (I had lots of them lying around actually)
Replaced the little input caps between the heatsink and the Wima caps with nichicon FGs. This helped a lot because prior to that the amp sounded a bit duller than I remember.
I used silver mica for the snubber cap since I got a few around and use input transformer and this board sounded very sweet.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
2101-H-RC, 10 uH , 10.8 Amp, High Current Toroid Inductor, J.W.Miller Magnetics (Bourns)[/FONT]
The sound quality improvement is obvious especially after bootstrap snubber mod, OSCON and the Murata.
It is not final Am am thinking for some better Input Signal DC De-coupling Caps and Output Filter Capacitors. and maybe those big Coilcraft Inductors
Murata GRM32ER71C226KE18L = 22uF ??? I am interested how it sounds but Texas Instruments warns that anything above 0.22uF will shorten chiplife