Thx irribeo.
It was my mistake trying to copy-paste the the wrong Murata part number using Google search for 22uf and not 0.22uF.
It is GRM32DR72E224KW01L Murata Electronics 0.22uF 250V 10% X7R.
I don't know how to change it back in that post.
SMD ceramic makes more sense then through hole ceramic for bootstrap, good film might work better and if distortion xr7 bootstrap is important, that was reason for selecting 250V in first place, and one believes that through hole and ceramic works best, following ceramic will surely distort less then xr7, might even distort less then filmcap:
FK22C0G1H224J TDK Corporation | 445-4758-ND | DigiKey
😀 price is also higher then filmcap
FK22C0G1H224J TDK Corporation | 445-4758-ND | DigiKey
😀 price is also higher then filmcap
Now please give some proof of that ! Price is irrelevant as quality has no correlation to price in many cases. It is all about production numbers.
Spelling nazi alarm (sorry): http://www.nubeterengels.nl/website/index.php?pag=128
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Well standard films or lookalikes on YJblue do not function and Bateman has some nice graphs in article linked in thread called: Capacitor sound - good read Cog and Xr7 graphs as fig 6 and 7 around 1/3 down, page12 october number 2002 Electronic world.
Als and dan is hard enough in Dutch 🙂
edit: in comparison 'than' is used in English. I believe in AmEnglish 'then' is always used?
Als and dan is hard enough in Dutch 🙂
edit: in comparison 'than' is used in English. I believe in AmEnglish 'then' is always used?
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New PCB layouts for TPA3116D2
Hi,
I know Danzz did a new layout (posted in #941) and there were one or two other "new" PCB designs for the TPA3116D2 published in this thread.
Are any of these new designs in production?
If not, are any of the authors / designers willing to send me the design files to finalise and get some boards made?
I currently have two of the YJ blue-black boards on order, but I am thinking of the future. Once I have tried out all the modifications, I would like to build a final version amp and it may be easier to start from the existing designs that already addresses some of the issues in the YJ blue-black boards.
Hi,
I know Danzz did a new layout (posted in #941) and there were one or two other "new" PCB designs for the TPA3116D2 published in this thread.
Are any of these new designs in production?
If not, are any of the authors / designers willing to send me the design files to finalise and get some boards made?
I currently have two of the YJ blue-black boards on order, but I am thinking of the future. Once I have tried out all the modifications, I would like to build a final version amp and it may be easier to start from the existing designs that already addresses some of the issues in the YJ blue-black boards.
Well I just dipped my toes in and bought one of these small Chinese amps for £10
It does not sound good! I guess it could be a lesson learnt! I'm also unsure whether it is worth modding so I have some questions:
I use Raspberry Pi and hifiberry direct out and the amp has no volume controls, so I have to turn the software volume (airplay) to nearly nothing and that can seem too loud!
Could this be the cause of the terrible sound? Do I need to attenuate (preamp)the signal from the hifiberry DAC before it enters this Chinese 3116 amp?
Are the amps you guys talk about MUCH better than the cheapie Chinese versions?
stu
It does not sound good! I guess it could be a lesson learnt! I'm also unsure whether it is worth modding so I have some questions:
I use Raspberry Pi and hifiberry direct out and the amp has no volume controls, so I have to turn the software volume (airplay) to nearly nothing and that can seem too loud!
Could this be the cause of the terrible sound? Do I need to attenuate (preamp)the signal from the hifiberry DAC before it enters this Chinese 3116 amp?
Are the amps you guys talk about MUCH better than the cheapie Chinese versions?
stu
Attachments
This one can sound very awfull unmodded, depending on which parts they put on the pcb. First look at signal input side, you'll see 2 resistors just above input, remove the left one, gain is lowered 6dB that way. If dc electrolytic capacitors are Jamicons you most likely want to replace those, bootstrap blue 220nF just behind chip do not function properly. This is all normal for this ampboard, you could also have a bad version that is worse 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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wow thanks irrebeo for the quick and thorough response!!!
My DC power caps (for smoothing?) are made by Nichicon
I see the two gain setting resistors, do I just pull one of these to reduce the gain? Does it matter which one?
Guess I will be modding this board after all!
stu
My DC power caps (for smoothing?) are made by Nichicon
I see the two gain setting resistors, do I just pull one of these to reduce the gain? Does it matter which one?
Guess I will be modding this board after all!
stu
Resistor does matter, remove the wrong one and you have no sound at all. In picture from wiki it is the bottom gainresistor, looking from input connector towards chip/heatsink it is the left one that can be removed to lower gain. Nichicons might be Nichicons and might be ok, you'll hear I guess.
Ha, thanks irrebeo... can you post the link to the wiki please,
and are you saying it is worth modding this then?
cheers Stu
and are you saying it is worth modding this then?
cheers Stu
The volume thing is strange, the Hifiberry DAC chip outputs 2.1v - very standard. My Raspberry pi/I2S DAC combo outputs 2.0v (so virtually the same) and volume level setting is about perfect at the standard 26db gain. I use a combination of SW and attenuator for volume control but can easily run about 3/4 volume on the attenuator with 100% SW volume. Have also used these boards with no volume control just using SW - works fine. I don't use airplay so I have no understanding about how it controls volume.
Of course speaker sensitivity affects sound levels - what speakers and what sensitivity do you use?
As to the question around being worthwhile modding this board - hell yes! This is the board many people have successfully modded however they are also notorious for having different components installed of differing quality tho the mods take care of most of those. You can get stunning results. That is assuming there isn't a problem with yours to do with the volume issue.
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There is a WIKI tab on top of the page, select list and after that one of them is tpa3116. I copied a picture from the wiki in my earlier post. If you didn't intend to mod your ampboard, you could have bought better sounding boards, volumelevel probably unrelated, althought some YJblueblack have appeared in this thread with wrong gainresistors too, but will be solved with removal of left one either way, right resistor value is irrelevant if left position is empty or not connected, gain then always 20dB.
I have two I2S DAC for my raspberry,
I can say hifiberry is loud compared to the other one (from audiophonics)
there are post on it (try google).
My solution was the chinese tube preamp.
ps: despite this high volume, the quality is good.
Two examples might help you out:
Five is greater than three.
If you unplug the amp, then it will be silent.
[emoji1]
I used one of them briefly, they introduce a lot of gain and the problem already is too much gain.
Simple passive pot or attenuator may be better.
Personally I always try to aim for a position where the "very loud" position is around 3/4 of the volume setting. This ensures there is no overload in any part of the chain which may well be the problem here. This is often a balancing act involving source voltage level, amp gain and speaker efficiency. I have always managed to attain the 3/4 target tho with these amps 26db is quite a lot of gain compared to many other power amps.
BTW what DAC chip does the audiophonics use? All my DACs are es9023 based at the moment.
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Stu, you have the Danzz designed board, typically referred to as "YJBlue". There are lots of reports in this thread of those shipping with components of dubious quality. Few people (on this thread anyway) buy them to run stock, but rather with the intent to replace many or all of the components.
I agree with the others, it's worth investing a little to replace some components. Bootstrap caps, bootstrap snubber mod, and DC cap replacement are quick, cheap, and easy.
If you're willing to start a collection of boards, my favorite for low power applications is the new Sure tpa3110. Replace eight electrolytic caps with OSCON and you might be done.