TPA3116D2 Amp

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#5,141
What effect would having 6x330 uF caps in there, changing the capacitance value?? How would it sound different theoretically
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Correct me if I'm wrong ...

Assuming the four caps are in connected in // on the Vcc ans GND rails, with two more caps It raise the capacitor value ans lower the Equivalent Serie Resistance (ESR) of the resulting cap. The circuit should be able to drive more current at high frequencies.
 
#5,144
den_hr said:
I've bought these on ebay:
DZ223 10pcs 3 Pins Connector Leads Head XH2 54 2 54mm Connector Kit DIP | eBay

"3 pins Connector leads Head XH2.54 2.54mm connector kit" - that's what the auction title says....

But, not before I purchased another batch, which were much too small - obviously those were connectors for LiPo batteries 🙁

HTH,

Denis
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Are the connector leads in the link the same as these?
1pc High Quality Length 35cm Audio Cable with RCA Jack | eBay

I have also had trouble finding the correct size 3-pin male connector. Tried one from a computer fan that was close but vertical spacing wrong and one from defunct 90s receiver that was too small.

Roger
 
#5,145
dboy said:
Glad to hear that Matt and apologies if I expressed myself clumsily (a common problem for me). I guess that I am overly keen to hear that cheaper transformers are available that will give SQ comparable to the more expensive ones, even though the international delivery costs on Edcor make them not good value to me. I have my main system pretty much done, but also planning bedroom/computer setups, etc. 🙂
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No apologies necessary, and I apologize if I came across as defensive. All that rambling was really just to say: I don't yet feel confident making recommendations about what does or does not improve sound quality. And if I do make a SQ statement, don't weight it too heavily. 🙂
 
#5,146
matt_garman said:
No apologies necessary, and I apologize if I came across as defensive. All that rambling was really just to say: I don't yet feel confident making recommendations about what does or does not improve sound quality. And if I do make a SQ statement, don't weight it too heavily. 🙂
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Sorry, you don't get away with it that easily! You are the only person to date with the Edcor transformers - its all hanging on your recommendation 😉
 
#5,147
Any thoughts so far on the edcor vs cinemags shootout. The edcor costs $31.30 while a pair of cinemags will run $170. The one thing the cinemag offers is you install 1 lead to the chassis and the other to the ground on the board. Creating a faraday cage, can you clarify if the edcor has that feature?
The edcor
https://www.edcorusa.com/ttpc15k-15k

The cinemags
http://cinemag.biz/line_input/PDF/CMLI-15-15B.pdf



matt_garman said:
Thank you, that confirms that I had identified the correct solder points. Also confirms that I'm not quite ready to play "micro surgeon" on this board (not yet anyway). I have a hacked up YJBlue board which is trivial to work on (by comparison anyway).




Thank you for the further info, and added confirmation to take the easy approach with YJBlue for my first pass on using the xformer. 🙂



It's never too late. 🙂 Well, too late for me, but I'm certain someone else is out there lurking and will find that incredibly useful.

Anyway, I went with the Edcor TTPC15K/15K. Pics of just the transformer assembly below.

As I said above, I wanted to use it with the Ybdz board, but the microscopic soldering scared me away. So I pulled out my "Frankenstein" YJBlue board. This is the first YJBlue board I ever bought, and likewise the first I ever did any hacking on. Mods it has:
  • Bourns 2300HT-220-V-RC1322 (22uH) output filter inductor coils
  • Panasonic PP 680uF output filter caps
  • Panasonic FC 2200uF cap across the input DC
  • Elna Silmic II 25V / 330uF DC decoupling caps (done before OSCON became the "standard")
  • 20dB gain setting = 60kOhm input impedance
  • Bootstrap snubber mod
  • Ceramic X7R boostrap caps

And now the Edcor 15k/15k input transformers.

Prior to this, for the last few weeks my "go to" amp was the Sure tpa3110 (new board), stock except for changing all eight caps to OSCON.

I hadn't listened to this tpa3116 in a while; it had been my "go to" amp until I built the Sure tpa3110.

I haven't had a lot of time to really "get to know" the 3116 + transformer sound (I only did it this morning!), but so far I really like what I hear. My initial overall assessment is that it sounds very "natural"... everything seems to be nicely balanced.

I think what I'll do next is to build a new YJBlue to replace this one. I'll do all the same mods, except I'll use OSCONs and probably the big Coilcraft inductors. Then I'll put it in a case with the Edcor transformers. That, or maybe the new YJ Audiobah clone (since it's more competitively priced). Is the SMD soldering on the Audiobah board any better than the Ybdz (i.e. are the pads bigger)? I'd also like to give that one a try.

I also need to build up some kind of hardware volume control. Right now I'm using software volume control. I'm listening to 16/44 red book CDs, but I have the bit depth set to 24 in Foobar, so in theory, it's still outputting bitperfect audio to my DAC, and using the extra bits for volume info. But I'm not sure of that.

I posted lots of eye candy for everyone.
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#5,148
Just recieved my tpa3116 on the red board.
However, connections under the board look like this. (See attached photo)

Are they supposed to be like that, or do I better resolder in order not to burn anything?
 

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#5,152
erik777 said:
Any thoughts so far on the edcor vs cinemags shootout. The edcor costs $31.30 while a pair of cinemags will run $170. The one thing the cinemag offers is you install 1 lead to the chassis and the other to the ground on the board. Creating a faraday cage, can you clarify if the edcor has that feature?
The edcor
https://www.edcorusa.com/ttpc15k-15k

The cinemags
http://cinemag.biz/line_input/PDF/CMLI-15-15B.pdf
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The Edcor didn't come with a faraday cage, although I suspect it wouldn't be too terribly hard to make one yourself.

This is the first time I've ever worked with input coupling transformers, and they are the only ones I've seen/tested. So I don't know how they compare to CineMags (or Jensens or Lundahls).

In fact, as I said above, it takes me a while to get the "feel" of a component change. All I can really say at this point is: they do work, and, at least in my case, remove the power-on/off thump/pop.

I'll try to post some more detail after I've had more time, but it's going to be weeks just due to time constraints. Sorry!
 
#5,153
installed the oscons and snubber mod in one of my test boards. definitely hearing some new detail in my critical listening tunes.

And, the snubber mod was not that hard to implement on the Danzz's YJ blue/black

thanks for all the photos and such. makes it a lot easier to start hacking away.
 
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#5,154
steveeboy said:
installed the oscons and snubber mod in one of my test boards. definitely hearing some new detail in my critical listening tunes.

And, the snubber mod was not that hard to implement on the Danzz's YJ blue/black

thanks for all the photos and such. makes it a lot easier to start hacking away.
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Good to hear that. Those are probably the two most important mods that one should do first.
 
#5,156
Hello, I have just received my SMSL 36a Pro after had been waiting for 40 days shipment from China to my country.

My board version is 2.2 with 3.3uF input Vishay MKT. Board looks fine except for the components that look fake.

I use laptop brick 19v 4.5a powering the amp. Completely stock it sounds ok, but the music is too slow for my liking. The singer voice is too backward, instruments sounds fine. But what impressed me is grand soundstage. There is no turn on pop, but there is a turn off pop.

After listening for about half day, I couldn't wait to change caps:
- unknown cap 47uF 35v changed to BG Hi-Q 47uF 6.3V.
- Panasonic M 470uF 25v to changed to Panasonic FM 680uF 25v

Now the amp so far sounds so much clearer, cleaner, better separation, faster music than stock but not too fast, sweeter sounding and more forward singer's voice. Low is well controlled, mid is improved and high very clear. I'll post some more after around 100 hours of playing and doing some more upgrade (sigma11 linear regulated psu on the way, changing input caps and a new casing).

Couldn't believe this class-d amp sounds so good 😀
 

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#5,158
For those of you wanting to drive the TPA 3116 with the Astron RS 12. If you run across like I did the 220v version for $5 bucks. These are less desirable, for the simple fact its 220v input. But here is the secret, its the same transformer, same caps etc as the 120v version. Just take the 4 wires off the transformer and move them. 1 to 3 and 2 to 4. And youll have 120v. Cheers
 

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#5,160
aioleos said:
Hello, I have just received my SMSL 36a Pro after had been waiting for 40 days shipment from China to my country.

My board version is 2.2 with 3.3uF input Vishay MKT. Board looks fine except for the components that look fake.

I use laptop brick 19v 4.5a powering the amp. Completely stock it sounds ok, but the music is too slow for my liking. The singer voice is too backward, instruments sounds fine. But what impressed me is grand soundstage. There is no turn on pop, but there is a turn off pop.

After listening for about half day, I couldn't wait to change caps:
- unknown cap 47uF 35v changed to BG Hi-Q 47uF 6.3V
.
- Panasonic M 470uF 25v to changed to Panasonic FM 680uF 25v

Now the amp so far sounds so much clearer, cleaner, better separation, faster music than stock but not too fast, sweeter sounding and more forward singer's voice. Low is well controlled, mid is improved and high very clear. I'll post some more after around 100 hours of playing and doing some more upgrade (sigma11 linear regulated psu on the way, changing input caps and a new casing).

Couldn't believe this class-d amp sounds so good 😀
Click to expand...

How long till BG Hi-Q 47uF 6.3V will explode with 19V DC applied???
 
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