sony das 702es dac problems..

hi all
ive juse aquired a sony das 702es dac.
the trouble is it has some problems in the form of noise.
its fine when first switched on,then after about a hour and 40 minutes it develops a noise similar to static from a radio on the left channel when playing music,if i stop the music playback then the static stops through the left channel but is replaced by a loudish wooshing noise through both channels this time??
anyone have any ideas,clues where to start?,i was going to recap the dac but that will cost quite abit,i dont mind doing it as the breif listern i had of it seemed quite decent,however i dont want to invest a small fortune if its a problem i cant sort out,also opinions regarding the quality of this dac soundwise would also be appricated compared to todays offerings for those that have owned or heard them.
many thanks in advance for any advice/help.
all the best
smithie.

Hello everyone

Hi,

Just a little post to introduce myself.

I'm 28 and I live in Belgium, I'm a really audio passionate, I build cabs for 8 years now, at the beginning based on internet plan but I started create mine own design 2 years ago and now I'm totally addict.

At the beginning of the pandemic I couldn't work so I go deeper and deeper into my knowledge, cad program and simulation software like akabak2 or 3. Now I'm doing that all the day every days 🙂

See ya

The Sounds of LS 3/5A

The Sounds of LS 3/5A Vol 2
$24.00





1. Mozart, arr. Savall: Alla turca. Allegretto

2. Bocini: Ballata No.3

3. Gershwin: Fascinating Rhythm

4. Vivaldi: L'Inverno (Winter) – Allegro

5. Handel: Lascia ch’io pianga (from Rinaldo)

6. Monti: Czadas

7. Lowe/ Turk/ Mike, arr. Mealey :Medley: Teddy Bear/ Are You Lonely Tonight/ Treat Me Nice

8. La Luze De Oro (musica Philippe Eidel/ poesia Biagio Marin)

9. Falla: Introducciò y danza del Corregidor

10. You Belong to Me

11. Bizet: L’Arlésienne, Suite No. 2, Op. 23: III. Menuet

12. Sur ce chemin (On This Path)

13. Farbay di Teg (Those Were The Days)

Universal PS question for Aleph J monoblock build

After ages of dithering, I finally pulled the trigger on Aleph J boards and two Universal PS boards from the DiyAudio store. I am now putting together the BOM for the project. With respect to the power supply, I have a couple of questions before I can order the parts. (If this post should be in the Aleph J build thread, please let me know.)

First, I know that for a stereo build 8 caps of 15,000 uF each are recommended (for a total of 60K per rail or 120K total). I also know that since each psu will only power one channel, I can reduce the capacitance somewhat. I cannot, however, find anything that says precisely how much. Is half appropriate? Is there any advantage to having greater capacitance? I could use 120K in each channel if that would be advantageous. I recall reading somewhere that too much capacitance in a ps capacitor bank can be counter productive. Can someone help me out on this? I tried Duncan, but that appears to be a little over my head at the moment.

Second, I have discussed in other threads that I have 4 ohm speakers and thus would be creating extra heat to no good effect if I run the amp at +/-24 volts (unless I increase the bias beyond the capacity of my heat sink). (Incidentally, I will be using two DiyStore 4U 300 mm heatsinks, one on each monoblock.) I would like to aim for +/-19-20 volts. Would a 15-0-15 volt transformer work for that? Would I be better off using the typically recommended 18-0-18 transformer and then adding some resistors to reduce the voltage a bit?

Thanks for any help anyone has to offer.

Jazzzman

home made PCB question

Call me crazy but .... Would you see any issue with machining the copper off the back of the pcb with a cnc wood router? One could draw the circuit in their cad software and then "engrave" the unwanted copper away and drill the holes to feed your component leads thru? It would work for simple circuits, or if there is plenty of real estate available, for larger projects. Theoretically, it could be quicker and easier to assemble and solder the board than to do point to point wiring.

No nasty chemicals, or photoresist, or ....

EL34 Dynaco Stereo 70 fault

Dear Forum,

I assume that my tube's gotten out, as out of nothing I heard a hum getting louder from my QUADs right channel.
I immediately turned off my amplifier. Checked the biaset's 1,56, whereas after turning on the amp, the left side stated 1,56 correctly after about 1 min, but the faulty right channel didn't stop at 1,56 but started to rise uncontrable, and around 3,00V, the 'faulty' tube's plate started to glow.

What do you think could be the problem? A friend of mine advised me to oversolder all the legs of the tube, that it could be some kind of miscontact.

Anyway, I am planning to swap all the four power tubes, so ordering a quad of el34s, but I have no idea which four should I buy.
I read pros and cons about the Russian Mullards, JJs and other manufacturers products. I have no coverage now for NOS solutions.

My question is that if you have any requirements, experience with these new EL 34's, and could suggest a manufacturer or a good NOS cost/performance ratio set for me.

Thank you for your help in advance!

101442784_1583673015143447_8440662312137785344_n.jpg

Rectifier capacitor and rating query

Hi All

Just giving a Musicl Fidelity F16 a clean u and renewing main caps as they are dry as a bone(never heard a capacitor rattle before)

Looked at rectifier and noticed no caps across diodes to absorb switching noise but Philips orange drop caps wired up like this

fJkGycJ.jpg


Have seen caps across ac inputs before but never ac to ground

Anyone any ideas why its like this?

Ta for any info

John

Leak 2001 Transcription turntable

I have just bought a Leak 2001 Transcription turntable which I would like to do up. The suspension is kind of unique as it uses 3 silicone fluid filled balloons and 3 rubber grommets (thick rubber rings). The 3 balloons look okay but I am replacing them with KAB Sorbothane pods.

However I am still looking for new mounting hole grommets. Does anyone have an idea where to buy those? The rubber of the originals is kind of soft.

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Yorkville M1610 Issiues

Hi all, sorry if I'm in the wrong part of the forums.. This is my first post and I'm not familiar with this site...

I'm having some weird issues with my mixer and what wondering if I could get some help diagnosing the problem. Everything works but I have to turn up the trim all the way up on channels 1-4 to get the green trim light to light up and also causes the red clip light to light up...
Channel 5-6 Instrument/Mic (Hi/z) I have to turn the trim all the way down and the trim light still comes on with the red clip light.
I haven't used my amp in months due to me having surgery but I know something is not right.
Any Ideas?

Best drivers for a small(-ish), down to 20 Hz, reflex subwoofer

For over 20 years I have had a stereo pair of Peerless SWR 308 / 830500 drivers, each in a 97 liter bass reflex enclosure tuned to 19 Hz. These have proved to be as perfect as I could have hoped for, but unfortunately these have been discontinued as well as Peerless XLS-12.

Considering a similar setup, with a less than 100 liters reflex box tuned to 19 Hz, which of the current subwoofers would give the highest SPL [dB]/W/m, with a quite flat amplitude response, between 20 to 30 Hz? *)

Quickly simulating on-line with www.micka.de ( Vb = 97 l, dia = 10 cm, len = 59.7 cm, Ql = 5, temp = 20*C ) could find at least the following:

Discontinued:
Peerless SWR 308 / 830500 ~82.0 dB/W/m, Xmax 12.5 mm
Peerless XLS-12 / P830500 ~82.0 dB/W/m, Xmax 12.5 mm
Current:
Dayton Audio RSS315HO-44 ~81.5 dB/W/m, Xmax 14.0 mm
FAITAL PRO 12HP1060 ~80.5 db/W/m, Xmax 12.0 mm
SB Acoustics SB34SWPL76-4 ~82.0 dB/W/m, Xmax 15.0 mm
Scan-Speak 23W/4557T00 ~81.5 dB/W/m, Xmax 13.0 mm
Scan-Speak 28W/4878T00 ~81.5 dB/W/m, Xmax 14.0 mm

From these, the SB Acoustics driver looks the most interesting on paper. But, an advice or sharing your good experiences with these or other reasonable drivers would be much appreciated.


EDIT: *) Due the appearance of a frequency response plot, term Extended Bass Shelf (EBS) alignment has been sometimes used.

Looking for desktop system speaker recommendations

Hello,
I have a desktop setup that needs some new speakers.
I think I am highly limited by speaker placement/application and looking for feedback.
Speakers are about 4” off the back wall.
Around 36” apart and 36” from my head.
Can be up to 16” tall by 12” deep by 9” wide.
Budget under $600.
Prefer DIY.
Listen to pretty much everything and genres.
Amps range from 300B set to pp EL84 to pp KT88 to 6V6.

Currently run RBH R5BiR.

My lock down project - SB and Fountek 3 way bookshelf

Background
This build started as a rebuild of my Infinity 3 Way bookshelf model RS8B speakers. I bought them in the early 80’s and when the surrounds went I made the mistake of replacing the drivers instead of re-foaming. When I measured them about a year ago I discovered how bad the response was. I spent a lot of time trying to model them with the replacement drivers I had used with no luck. Additionally all the drivers are not flush mounted making for some ugly diffractions. I realized that to salvage them I would have to replace the baffle and crossover. At this point I decided to just start over and planned to use the Audax HM170Z0 woofers in a new box and crossover.

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Split I2S signap between dac chips

Split I2S signal between dac chips

Hi,

I am planning to build a dual-mono dac (first a stereo from usb, then a multichannel from hdmi).
My question is, how can I share the I2S signal with the 2 chips.
So here is my idea. (feel free to make constructive comments)

- There is a clock syncing everything together.

- The USB board (something from alliexpress) provides the I2S signal (which need to be duplicated somehow)

- The I2S is proccessed by 2 pcm1795 (one for each channel). These will be configured to be mono.
- Then the current to voltage conversion will be handled by 2x2 NE5534 opamps (2 for each channel)
- Finally use the pga2311 for volume control (not entirely sure about this: if i give up on dsd, then i will use the dacs internal solution)


The final version will be printed by jlc pcb.

Noise with krc-86b v4.0 module

Hi, how are you all?

I'm trying to add this bluetooth module to an amplifier. I have a problem with krc-86b v4.0 module | Electronics Forums

I opened a wall phone charger and soldered it to the AC line inside the amplifier so it
can turn on when i turn on the amp, then soldered the module to the 5v charger. Between the AUX input of the amplifier and the Audio Output of the bluetooth module i used a ground isolator.

The thing is that i'm getting this digital noise when the bluetooth is
not in use. The noise gets better when the bluetooth is in use but it's there.

Any ideas of what to do to remove the noise?

How do i fix vintage germanium amplifier from a record player ?

Hi everyone. I got one of an old Yugoslavian record player. It is a iskra-riz traviat stereo. I know this is by no means an audiophile record player but it is a nice looking and pretty decent build quality player and i really want to fix it. Basically when I plugged it in one channel was making a loud humming like when you plug a speaker directly into the mains frequency AC so i quickly turned it off. So I pulled out an amplifier and checked it. There was nothing visible. It has a single diode and a 12v 2000uf capacitor for rectification. I measured 8.5v across the main capacitor. So I tried powering amplifier from my bench power supply. I set the voltage to 8v and current limit to 200ma and gave it an input. This time there was no humming but at first it pulled 150ma and one channel worked perfectly and then when i started to test the bad channel current started to drop and channel started making a squealing noise. I instantly powered it off. But under that squealing I could still hear a very distorted music. Can someone please help me i am now scared to do anything else. I am afraid of blowing up these vintage transistors. It has AC180 and AC181k output transistors.
I recorded a video of a pcb. Here is a link ( don't worry about disconnected main capacitor that was just me testing things...

iskra-riz traviat stereo amplifier board. - YouTube

4 pots are volume and tone control for each channel.

Boosting Sound and volume in Android

My Android smartphone is weak in recording loud sound events since it crackles destroying every audio detail. So, I tried to find out a good app to enhance the device's microphones. As a result, I got several apps in which most of them require root access. I don't have root access and I'm not willing to do it. Instead, I got VirtualXposed APK which said to be an app that could run root apps without root access. My question, Is it practically possible to apply sound and volume configuration virtually to be effective on the Android OS?

Ghost resonance

Hi!

Anyone familiar with Ghost resonance? A hardening effect with L-R 24db slopes.
a06_xoverharmonics.gif






Some info from Lenard Audio
A mid speaker crossed over in isolation. 2nd order 12dB/octave crossovers attenuate the music without hearing a tone or colour change. Higher order crossovers attenuate the music causing a subtle but noticeable tone or colour change (hardening) in the music. When recombined with the other speakers this tonal change is not directly noticeable.
Crossover distortion

Active Crossover are created by electronic L. C. resonant circuits, or software digital assimilations of them. The slopes of crossovers represent a part (one side) of a resonant note. This note is not heard directly, but the steep slopes of third and fourth order crossovers can reflect harmonic interference (sideband distortion) within the music. Early research referred to this ghost resonance as transient distortion. Conclusive research in this area has not been completed.​

Understanding how speakers work and are tested - in simple terms

Understanding how speakers work and are tested - in simple terms

On the long road to building a better speaker, after some study (possible not enough) and some experimentation (again more is needed) I feel I need to get to the basics here and try to piece together how speakers, and in the broader context, how audio systems work, before I progress any further.

My starting point is the following animation.

How loudspeakers work - Explain that Stuff

The amplfier sends an alternating current to the speaker, the cone of the speaker vibrates at this frequency. Assume a sine wave signal. The vibration is transferred to the air, and reaches the ear. The eardrum vibrates in according to the changing sound pressure and the auditory signal is sensed by the brain.

I have used my own words for clarify and simplicity, and also as a basis for correction.

Sound is transmitted as a transverse wave, consisting of varying sound pressure as shown in this page:

The Nature of Sound

When a sound is created, it is actually a short series of comressions and rarefactions, spanning from a few milliseconds upwards. So there is no single 'sound' as it were, but a short duration sequence of pulses, which are of such short duration we refer to it as 'a sound'

Have I got it right so far?

To the cleverest out there--Time for Remote!

I wish the cleverest folks out there would devise a device (maybe an external one) that would mechanically turn the volume knob or stick behind the knob on the TU 8600.

I have ideas but I'm not that mechanically inclined (I'm only handy).

I've seen people take a cheap preamp and place it under their volume knob and have it rotate the unit without a remote by turning a rubber band. That's a start.

Essentially I am asking, hey, we have external power supplies, why not invent an external remote volume device that attaches to the front of the amp?

Now, if one could be fashioned internally--all the better (maybe not sonically)--yet there's no room in the Elekit to do anything internally.

It's 2020--I don't care if it's Elekit or AudioNote or some boutique amp.... I need a remote!!

Driver replacement Brines FT-1600 MkII

Years ago, I bought Bob Brines plans for FT-1600 MkII with Fostex FE167E speakers. My brother and I built them and I absolutely love these speakers. We listen to them every day. After having 3 children, the FE167E have not faired well. They have been colored with crayons, whizzers squished/wrinkled, smooshed, pushed, pulled etc. Ya I know, grills... ugh. Needless to say they are not at their best.

What driver can be used in place of the FE167E?

Not overly fond of the FF165WK's color scheme but have read this is a good drop in for FE167E. Any others that would work well in this enclosure?

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RCA 59 triple grid pentode

Hi .
Can anyone help with a question that's puzzled me for some time - the RCA type 59, seemingly a IDH version of the 46 triple grid pentode of 1930s is never seen used in any amp (that I can find on the web) I've used these in SE amps successfully for some time. Being in the UK there is little info and so the question - why are they not used? after all, most others of that period are used frequently. Any thoughts appreciated.
Thanks.
David.

Help With Cinch? Speaker Jack on Old Amp

Hi all, & hope all's well.. Here's a pic of the back panel of my Bell & Howell 12643, aka model 138, & the associated schematic (in 2 parts), & not wanting to remove that jack, can anywhere help me make heads or tails of it?
Many thanks in advance for any assistance.
Kenny

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120Hz hum in my amp, and here is a scope picture.

I am trying to find the source of the 120Hz buzz coming out of my speakers. At least I think it is 120. Anyhow I disconnected all input to the amp and connected the end of the speaker cable to one of the inputs to the scope. The other input to the scope has a 120Hz from a signal generator. Be aware that I am a total newbie to this and I don't really know what I am seeing on the scope from the amp. I expected a much cleaner picture.
So, am I going about this in the correct manner ?
If not, which is likely, please guide me.

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TL subwoofer - vent on diff surface from driver?

I'm planning a TL subwoofer on a napkin, so just doodling.
I've noticed that most TL subs seem to have their vent existing on the same surface as the driver, generally just below it, but Im wondering whether this is absolutely essential?
What I want to do is fit the 15-inch driver to the front of a tallish box, near to the bottom so it is roughly at one-third of the line distance (at S1/S2) and the vent would then exit out of the base, so to speak (so the sub would need to be raised up on feet).
Alternatively, if i flipped it, the driver would be near the top of the front surface facing the listener and the vent would exit out the top towards the ceiling.

Or does this mess up the 'merging' of the front and rear waves?
On first principles, I'd expect no problem with such a design but what do I know?

No sound Yamaha CD-S700 to DacMagic 100

I'm curious about the digital output (optical & coaxial) from a Yamaha CD-S700 as when hooked up to a Cambridge Audio DacMagic 100, there is no sound even though the correct sample rate lights up on the DAC indicating a locked signal. There is a direct mode on the CD-S700 that turns off the display and digital outputs and have that turned off but have tried both ways. There's no clues in the service manual and there's no menu in the player to play around with settings.

I did read a user on a Dutch site had a similar issue but there was no answer to his question.

The CD-S700 does digital output to my Yamaha AVR with no issues and all other equipment such as TV, CD players, DVD and BD work with the DacMagic 100.

The DAC will not be used with this CD player as was installed for other equipment but has me very curious as I thought digital outputs either optical or coaxial would be standardised.

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Help me work out a solution for these mid tops

Hi there,

I'm relatively new to the world of pro audio. I've built a pair of subs and a pair of kick bins that I absolutely love, but I've been using a pretty ratty pair of Eons as the mid tops. I wanted to change that, and threw together a pair of cabinets using the extra birch I had from the kicks and subs. I've attached an image to give you an idea of what they'll eventually look like.

Each cabinet will contain two Eminence Delta 10A speakers sharing the same enclosure volume of almost exactly one cubic foot (and a compression driver/horn in a separate chamber above). I got a great Ebay deal on these four drivers with the intent of building something comparable to the "Small Vented Cab" described by Eminence here (except with two drivers and roughly twice the enclosure volume): https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/more-info/290-412--eminence-delta-10a-cabinet-design.pdf

My dilemma is that I can't find anywhere sane to put the two 3" ports! My only real solution would be to mount them in the back of the trapezoid, but I've read that ports shouldn't be behind drivers if you can help it. I've also looked at using up to four 2.5" ports on the baffle, but the length of these would be very short to maintain the 95hz tuning frequency of the box I'm going for, and I've read that air velocity is a concern.

One thing worth noting is that I'm designing these to be high passed at 200hz--I think having them play down to 125hz as is possible in the linked Eminence cabinet design might be nice if I need it (say if I were to pair it with just my subs instead of my subs + kick bins).

Sadly, I don't have a windows machine so I can't get WinISD. I'm hoping someone could kindly help me with modeling port air velocity with the four 2.5" (or even four 2") ports (maintaining a 95hz tuning frequency for the 1 cubic foot box) to see if it's untenable at any point 200hz or above.

Alternatively--since the two deltas will be used chiefly for midrange (and not being able to go down to 125hz wouldn't really be a dealbreaker)--should I consider just leaving their enclosure sealed with a volume of 1 cubic foot? I've seen something similar done in this plan, here: Speakerplans.com

If someone is able to model excursion and frequency response in particular, that would be amazing. I'd also love to hear any general opinions regarding vented vs sealed enclosures for PA midrange.

I'm really thrilled to be building speakers and will be certain to keep this community apprised of my progress!

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Memphis Audio 16-ST500D protection curcuit help.

I repaired the power supply and 2 shorted irf640's on this memphis amplifier. However something is still damaged. Regulated is +-15, the power supply runs smoothly without the rectifiers. With the rectifiers in curcuit the amplifier flashes in and out of protection, the amplifiers draws about 2.5amps of current then not. Its fast the ammeter just swings as it attempts to power up. I could use some help identifying the problem in this protection curcuit.

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Elekit 8200 DX in Triode Mode

I’ve had my 8200 DX for a few months and have loved every minute of it. I kept the amp in ultralinear mode since I first plugged it in and loved the sound. I decided to try triode mode this weekend, which is accomplished by cracking the case and moving a small jumper for each channel. Wow! The sound got even better, at least to my ears. I’ve read that amps using triodes tend to have a gorgeous mid-range but a less taut low end. That has been my experience as well with the 8200DX, but the bass sounds quite defined and satisfying all the same. Piano and horns, though, sound like they are in the room with me. The whole sound of my albums is fuller and richer. Maybe I’ll switch back to ultralinear mode in the future, but right now, I am loving how my albums are sounding.

Capacitor doubt

hi all,

I have this amp with shorted output transistors for one channel.
There is a capacitor that connecting rca input positive signal to the secondary ground via a resiator. The designation on the board shows as it is ceramic disk type capacitor but I found 10uf 16v caps. I found those caps burst for two channels. Others two values gone too low. I expecting if somebody had interfered with them or I dont know if it is factory itself. Attaching image of C301 and C401.
Please suggest what to use.

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share your experience on sound of hybrid amps

I've seen some interesting hybrid amps about but very little information on how they sound. I'd like to get a bit of a feel for how different approaches to hybrid amps have on the sound.

By hybrid I don't mean some sand somewhere in amongst the glass (such as a CCS plate load) - but something more substantial such as SS gain stage feeding tube output via OPT, or tube gain stage feeding SS output buffer.

Thanks.

TL431 as CCS for phase inverters or cathode resistor.

I was designing a part of my power supply when I was running trough the datasheet and the basic application notes of the TL431 and I found two images that particularly interested me.

One is a "precision shunt regulator" and the other one is a "precision current limiter".

Firs I want to talk about the current limiter. its essentially a really good constant current source or sink when you use it that way. Its a two wire contraption and it fits perfectly into old tube amplifiers as a CCS to directly replace a resistor because its a two wire device. Doesnt need any power to power a op amp none of that nonsense.
I know its not as easy a a depletion mosfet cascode or a speciffic component meant for CCS. Most of the CCS components are limited with minimum current 8mA and the voltage and so on. (the IXS something something part number if you look in its datasheet more in depth the limmitation is there. Doesn't mean it wont work but its not ideal or bordeline stable)
This could basically work with practically anything. the TL431 is not dependant on the voltage across the entire device so you dont fry it not even if you were to put 600V across it because all the work would have been done in the transistor(dont take this literary because it does not work below 2.5V and some current to open the transistor so there is a lower limit to this). You can put this in the anode or the cathode of any tube. You just need to do some little math to figure the resistor values and voila got your 100% accurate current source / sink.

The second image is the shunt regulator. This one interested me because of a other topic here on the forum where we discussed instabillity caused by drifting bias on the cathode resistor at high loads. I realised we can use the 431 as a shunt regulator so we can set the bias of the tubes on a cathode biased amplifier just like we would in a fixed bias enviroment.
Trained eyes that know something about the 431 would relise that even a EL34 amp like the mullard 5-20 would exceed the voltage capabillity of the 431 (I found the bias voltage on 470R resistors with mine at 450V B+ to be 35-37V and the 431 is maxed in 33). Simple solution put a 15V zener between the 431s anode and the base of the transistor now you got the voltage range extended by the zener voltage so you can even run larger tubes like this. Even KT88s.
And this would be best of all also a drop in two wire replacement for a regular old cathode resistor.
(in the schematic replace the input resistor with a power tubes cathode and VI as the vacuum tubes anode voltage and there you go now you have a rather precise bias that should never fail.) Its like putting zeners in the cathodes but better because you can infinitely adjust it in a certain range. Also the curve of this contraption should be A LOT SHARPER than that of a regular old zener. For stabillity reasons I would leave in the cathode bypass capacitors or replace it with something a lot lower cappacity and something that will never ever go bad (1uF MLCC cappacitor and yes you can get these SMD caps in this capacity at quite the voltage ratings or a film 1uF capacitor, maybe even a SMD tantulum would be okay. It wouldnt be stressed so much anyways.)

All sounds ideal so Ill make this real in full SMD except the power transistor for the shunt regulator. The CCS even at 10mA in a phase inverter (lets say 120V on the cathodes is just 1,2W so I can easily get away with a D2PAK and some heatsinking pads.

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Nomex 164 -My DIY experience on a 2.5 way

Hi Happy Xmas to all members.
This is my first experience building a 2.5 way based on Nomex 164 designed by Troel using Peerless HDS midwoofer renamed now Tymphany 830875 and ex Peerless HDS tweeter 810921 now remaned Scanspeak D2608 91300.
In the past I have experienced only 3 ways with 10 in woofer. So I will probably have to tune my ears to bass coming from 6.5 driver asnd hope I shall not be disappointed.

First project - FAST / WAW like

Hello all,


I am considering a FAST-like speaker with :

  • Full range Fostex FE126En
  • Woofer Monacor SPH-220HQ in 30 litres sealed enclosure
  • Monacor SAM-300D plate amp for the woofer
I would like to reach down to 40Hz.

I am afraid that would be misusing the woofer, because when simulating it (WinISD) in a sealed 38 litres I hit xmax with only 15W (out of 100W admissible) with 100dB SPL. Further more, the SAM-300D includes a 3dB bass boost at 40Hz, which adds a little excursion, reducing admissible power.

Is that a design flaw ?
Is the 100dB SPL too low ? I suppose that is RMS value, so what margin does it leave in terms of crest factor headroom, could I actually play music at 100dBrms SPL ?

I don't particularly play music loud, I just want to avoid an undersized system (FWIW the room is about 5m x 5m 3m ceiling, open into a 2nd room the same size, open into a third).

Thanks for your advice and input.

Tang Band W6-1914SB as a Fullrange?

What do we know about the W6-1914SB? I ran across this 6in honeycomb diaphragm neodymium motor midrange today. I looked at the response curve and it seems wide and flat and with decent sensitivity. I think it won’t make much bass but could be a good top for a FAST/WAW.

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Code:
Resonant Frequency (Fs)70 Hz
DC Resistance (Re)6.5 ohms
Voice Coil Inductance (Le)0.073 mH
Mechanical Q (Qms)7.19
Electromagnetic Q (Qes)0.37
Total Q (Qts)0.35
Compliance Equivalent Volume (Vas)0.39 ft.³
Mechanical Compliance of Suspension (Cms)0.399 mm/N
BL Product (BL)10.23 Tm
Diaphragm Mass Inc. Airload (Mms)13.97g
Maximum Linear Excursion (Xmax)0.5 mm
Surface Area of Cone (Sd)140 cm²

Data sheet:
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/264-905--tang-band-w6-1914sb-spec-sheet.pdf

Overview X-XA-XS-Power Amp Series - Elcaps using both in large and small Outline-why?

In power amplifiers of this series are to find two kind of electrolytic capacitors behind the rectifier :

A. Large can versions with screw terminals and low-ESR e. g.
FTcap (F&T) GMB 47310075145 (Ø 75mm x 145mm, ESR = 3-4 mΩ)
%product-title% kaufen
or similar like Mallory, Cornell-Dublier or Sprague
NOS Mallory 10,000UF 75VDC CGS103U075V3C Electrolytic Can Capacitor.
https://static6.arrow.com/aropdfcon...f45da10ee14f2ad1ac33/3632267624208725550c.pdf
Sprague 36DE213G050BB2A 21000uF 50V Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

The following models use this kind of capacitor
1) X-150 (not X-150.5)
2) X-350, X-350.5, X-350.8
3) X-600, X-600.5
4) X-1000 (from X-series first amplifier ever)
5) XS-150 (two devices /each channel due to outdoor power supply)

B. Small versions (mounting type "Snap-In") with high capacity in large quantity e. g.
Panasonic ECO-S1HP103CA (Ø 25mm x 50mm, ESR = 36/27 mΩ)
Blocked
or similar:
Nichicon LLS1K472MELA/LLS1J682MELA/LGU1H682MELA/LGU1J472MELA
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/8526298/
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/LLS1J682MELA?qs=CTiUoleKpMEAuBr9VqiAJg==
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/1671486/
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/8466962/
EPCOS B41252A8478M000
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/7714721/
Vishay (formerly BC) MAL225631682E3
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/1730638/
KEMET (formerly BHC-Aerovox) ALC70A472BD063
https://mt.rsdelivers.com/product/k...μf-electrolytic-capacitor-63v-dc-snap/1813462

The following models use this kind of capacitor - at least according the top view images without cover:
1) X-150.5 (not X-150)
2) X-250, X-250.5, X-250.8
3) XA-25
4) XA-30.5, XA-30.8
5) XA-100.5
6) XA-200, XA-200.5

The great advantage of using large can versions are lowest ESR, very reliable and very long life time 10000-15000 hours) so as best possible sound results in all respects.
Disadvantage here is high space requirement and very high costs, even when considering volume discounts.

The great advantage of using small versions is very low cost and the very little need of space required with a very high total value of capacity. Disadvantage here is the short life time around 2000-4000 hours -at least according the datasheets and poor dynamic behavior in listening tests compared to bulky and space-consuming capacitors with screw terminals.

And now my questions:
1) What is it based on, when to use the small (Ø 25mm) caps (small cv product) and when to use the large capacitor cans with screw terminals?
2) When buying X-XA-XS power amp devices in used condition, it is better to prefer the ones with screw terminated can electrolytic cap versions ?

Thank you very much for an advice.
In the attachment images from X-150 and X-150.5

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Hammer Dynamics Super 12, Full Range Speaker Kit

--- Hammer Dynamics Super 12 Speaker NOS speaker -- KIT -- for sale asking $599.00 - A great Full Range Speaker KIT!

-- 97 db Speaker - works well with Tube or Solid state

--Full Range Driver

--Small coaxial mounted Tweeter

-- Kit actually cost -- $ 1,260.00 in it's final year .

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=32729&stc=1&d=1212251296

Denon PMA 1060 cuts out at quarter volume

Hi all,

First time poster here. I just recently bought a Denon PMA 1060 stereo amplifier which has an issue. The audio will cut out at about quarter volume. The actual volume varies slightly with different music (louder music will cut out at a lower volume, quieter music will cut out at slightly higher volume). I have to power cycle the amp to restore audio but if I go too loud again, it will cut out.

I'm guessing the protection circuit has kicked in but don't know why.

I've checked for stray strands of speaker wire, but I use banana plugs and don't see any stray wires.
I have tried left and right channels connected by themselves, with no change.
I have tried the second (B) set of speaker terminals, no difference.

The speakers connected are Aaron ATS4, rated at 160W at 6 ohm so should be able to handle the power. The amplifier I replaced but is still working doesn't cut out with these speakers at quite loud volume.

I do have a multimeter, but am not strong with amplifiers or analog electronics. I've measured the voltage across the speaker terminals and there does not appear to be a big DC offset voltage on the terminals. I've found a service manual online and there is a procedure to adjust the idle current, but I don't think that would cause this issue, would it? From what I've read, too high idle current makes the amp run hot, and too low affects sound quality. I don't think either of this is happening in this case.

I'm wondering if anyone knows what the issue might be? I can take it to a repair shop who seem confident on what the problem is, but wondering if it's a cheap and/or common fix, or more complex!

Thanks in advance.

Anyone using a car audio amp in a home stereo set-up?

Hi ! sorry if i jump in but i really need some advice on car audio amps.
First of all i have absolutely no experience with car audio.
I do not listen when i drive for safety reasons (the music distracts me a lot).
Anyway ... i see many car audio amps around ... new and used.
So i thought about using one of them as a power amp in my stereo system.
I have already bought this to power it ...

LEDMO 12V 20A Alimentatore Interruttore AC 110/240V to DC Trasformatore di Alimentazione 240W: Amazon.it: Fai da te

One thing that i like very much is the gain control that can be found on i guess all car audio amp. I have a preamp with a high gain and that attenuator could be very useful for me.
So the question is ... what to buy ? i really need only 20-30 Watt/channel but with good current
Any advice and suggestion would be very welcomed and appreciated.
Kind regards, gino

Parasound HCA 1000A Bias

Hello, I'm fairly new to the world of solid state amps, more of a tube guitar amp guy. A buddy brought me a Parasound HCA1000A which needed new filter caps. The amp seems to be working fine now but I would like to verify that the bias is correct. My understanding is that the bias calculation/adjustment procedure is to measure voltage across output transistor emitter resistors then use ohms law to drive current and adjust for 30-40 mA. So I'm measuring voltage on the
0.33 ohm emitter resistors on the big 2SC3519 and 2SA1386 transistors but I measure 0V on all of them. Is there something I'm doing wrong?

J.

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Wavecore MTM project (after lockdown)

This project is going to take a long time, but I've given it a huge amount of thought, on and off for the past few years. I've designed many a theoretical possibility with Visaton drivers, but even though they're very good, and I've had really good experience with them, I want to give something else a try. Something with maybe slightly lower Q, I don't know. But what I do know is that I want to base the speakers on < 6" drivers. I can't seem to find properties I like of the W130S, and I don't like the FR or price of the Visaton aluminum drivers.



I want to keep with the MTM I've enjoyed so much. I've looked at many drivers, and I really like the CSS 7", but for MTM, they're a little big, and they're > 6" anyway. So it was a choice between Wavecor 4 3/4 paper drivers and 5 3/4 glass fiber drivers. The 4 3/4 paper cone has a dip in the FR between 1 and 2 kHz, and that won't do for me. So after all that, I've decided to design with:


MTM

Wavecore WF146WA06
Peerless DX25TG59-04


Does anyone know, firstly, anything about the Wavecor drivers, and whether they're any good (especially for $80 each), and then more importantly, that Peerless tweeter? I like the FR because the tweeter crossover will usually level it off nicely. I want to make it a 50L vented box.



I'm thinking of crossing over at 2 kHz, but I'll figure out the exacy frequency when I've had more time to see how far spaced the drivers will be.

Parasound HCA-2200 flatening sinewave at ~10W

I'm working on a Parasound HCA-2200 (MKI). It is flattening the bottom of the sinewave in both channels at the same time, around 10W.

I've recapped the unit, except for the main filter caps. Someone had done a partial recap before. They had added an electrolytic cap across D105/106 and 205/206. I pulled it and didn't note the value. Probably should have. Not sure if it was supposed to be there and they had botched the wiring of replacement RCA jacks so I wasn't confident in their work. And was trying to fix a buzz (which was because I still hadn't gotten the RCA jacks wired right). Could it have been there for this reason? EDIT: looking at pictures in another thread where the caps are there. Guess I screwed up not keeping track of them. Anyone know what value they might be? I could email parasound again I guess. EDIT #3: In the MKII schematic it looks like there is 1uF capacitance here.

Where should I start looking?

Are the two trimpots at the input offset settings? If so how do I set them since there is two? EDIT AGAIN: Post #7 answers (Parasound HCA-2200 problem - need some help)

Schematic attached. Only the MKII schematic was online so I emailed parasound and they sent the MKI schematic.

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Leave it on

I've heard from many that leaving on your electronics isn't always bad and sometimes it might be in your advantage.
More specifically in solid state amps the burst of power during the power on period can cause more Harm than the "fatigue" components might experience when having electricity flowing through them all the time. You also don't have to wait for them to heat up for the best performance.
Is this true in your opinion? I get that class d are also very efficient so you aren't even waiting a lot of power but what about class a-ab?

Marantz PM7200 repair: lacks power?

Allô everyone, thanks for this forum and your attention.

This Marantz PM7200 cuts out the sound on both channels for a half a second on transients, and recovers. Until the next transient.
It will do it as well on not very dynamic music with volume pushed, at the slightest peak.

It does that on any source. It does it running in class A. It does it with "source direct" selected (no bass/treble controls). With that Tone Board in function, cutting the bass lessens the problem.

So my first thought was: lack of power reserves, so, bad capacitors?

(Amp draining test tune: Schonherz & Scott "wishing well" on Windham Hill https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAwxJg7mEr8)

And it also does it on headphones (Sennheiser HD518, 50ohms), no speakers fed. Which is a big relief as it takes the lovable Elipson 1303 out of the equation.

No hum, no relay clicks when sound cuts, no thumps from speakers, no hiss, no distortion.

As for distortion, i hear a certain "granularity", but i usually evaluate sound quality wearing headphones, and that headphone test was done playing a .mp3 from a Samsung phone...

(((
(i moved the Marantz to the bench to sneak inside. Replaced it (only to hear the Linux Pc used to stream live Radio-Canada 'cause we can't afford the Cable/Satellite Scam) with given to me STK powered Pioneer VSX515. Please everyone use that as last resort. It's awfull...even without headphones)
)))

...so i don't rely on that. Add to that that i don't hear much above 10Khz.

As for relay clicks, i can hear a couple relays clicking on power up sequence, but the speaker relays clicks are very faint. Maybe these click when the sound cut happens and i don't hear them. Anyways the sound always resumes after .5second without cycling Power, until the next transient.

On speaker out (without speakers plugged, no input, Vol at Min) i measured -2mv DC on R, -20mv on L. Same in class A. I did not do the other measurement (quiescent current?) yet, i need probe clips for those hard to reach test points.

On visual inspection (no dismantling, though) i didn't see any burns, bad traces, or bulging or obviously leaking caps. I only saw 2 suspect electrolytic capacitors, with whitish powder nearby on the board or on top. #2203 and #2204 (470mF and 2002mF) on the Tone Board.

And i was surprised to see on the schematic (if i'm reading right) that AC (what voltage??) is fed to that ToneBoard, direct from the main transfo, going through 4 rectifier diodes and to those 2 caps. So i wonder if they can be involved (if bad) and how, as the sound cut happens even with that ToneBoard out of the signal path (source direct).

That fault developped and got worse with time. It was not there when i first used the amp (bought used, 2-3?? years ago). Which makes me hope that some weakness was already present whaen i first played it, for i immediately missed my precedent music companion HarmanKardon PM660. The Marantz lacked the "Ooumph" (what a nicely eloquent audiophile term ;-) ). I was even more sorry when i played a vinyl on it, but i now know i can correct that wrong capacitance on the input, thanx to knowledgable inhabitants of these forums (fora? fori? forae? pardon my poor Latin).

I should also mention that i seldom put the marantz on Standby, it was On 24/7 :headbash: <slapping own fingers>.

I researched bad capacitors (i now know how to discharge before testing, for one thing) and sound cutting and related stuff for a week. Apart from surface mount, i can manage a soldering iron (i remember replacing diff pairs on the HK, the Marantz will be a joy to work in) and multimeter and basic safety measures (grrr, i need probe clips), so throw it at me ;-)

Sorry for the verbose precision, i think i told you all i observed.

And thank you all for your insights and help.

service manual:
https://www.hifiengine.com/hfe_downloads/index.php?marantz/marantz_pm7200_service.pdf

Need a lot of help please.

Hi I am new to this community and plan to build my first pair of speakers soon and just need a ton of help. This build will most likely be 1 of 2 build I want to do, both will be 3 way builds without crossovers. My plan is to get a hivi 3.1 kit to practice on with the dsp, learning what I can then build my second pair with what I learned. Kinda feel stupid asking these questions but at this point I am desperate to learn and try!

Q1: How are crossover less or dsp speakers wired? Do they still need internal circuits?
Q2: How do you match speakers in a 3 way build.
Q3: what determines how much power goes to each speaker.
Any links, advice or book recommendations are welcomed.

Thanks in advance.
Akil.

3.5mm AUX to stereo speakers

This question is way to complicated for me to try to Google so I thought I'd try here.

I'm making a DIY Bluetooth speaker from woofers, an amp, and a Bluetooth card. The audio goes from my phone to Bluetooth card, to amp then to speakers. However, the only way to connect the bluetooth card to the amp is over 3.5mm AUX, and I'm struggling to figure out how to do this.

On the bletooth card there are 2 positive and negative ports (origionally sdesigned to go straight to speakers, but there going to an amp first now bevase the speakers are bigger.)

So does anyone have any suggestions on how to wire a set of stereo speakers to an AUX port? This AUX port was a solution to another problem someone here solved for me so I think it should be possible. Thank you in advance. (Also the amp will be here tomorrow so I'd like to get started)

Not So Fearless (or, How I Learned to Love the Fan)

Mr Pass often talks of "fearless amplifier builders". I have to admit, I am not quite so fearless. Maybe it is my naturally cautious nature, I don't know....

I built a pair of F5 Turbo monoblocks with a couple extra output drivers to handle the crazy loads from my ESLs, and it runs warm. The temp gauge shows 50degC at idle, and up to 60degC when driven. For my own peace of mind, if nothing else, I would prefer to to run a tad cooler.

I have seen a thread before where someone put a fan in the middle of a board and set his amp onto it. Sounded like a good idea, so I did the same. I hated the fan noise. That was much worse than the uneasiness of hot amps. But it did work really well.

So, to reduce fan noise, I took three approaches:

1) find a really quiet fan to begin with. There are some very good ones that have feathered back edges on their blades and good engineering that are very quiet. This helped greatly, but not enough.

2) I made a simple fan controller using a Cypress PSoC running a fuzzy logic algorithm that varied fan speed by temperature. The lower the speed, the lower the fan noise. Basically a simple thermostat with a few different fan speeds based on temperature and whether the temp was rising or falling. This was almost enough. The fan noise was very much reduced. But, like most engineers with a problem on their mind, that was still not quite what I wanted.

3) When fans beat against the air, the blades create an air vibration (noise) based on fan speed, number of blades, etc. This is generally a single frequency plus some harmonics. To counteract this, I added a pseudo-random speed delta to the speed controller. This spread the fan noise out over a range of frequencies. I have not verified this yet, but I believe the total noise to be the same (area under the curve) but the greatest amplitude is very much reduced. Even on the highest speed, I have to be within a couple of feet of the fan to hear it.

With these three in place, from my listening position, I am unable to hear the fan, even when the music is silent. And, the amp now runs at 40-45deg, a level I am much more able to live with.

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My first amp!

I didn't expect this to be so fun!

I came across this article about a really simple class A follower, by Greg Szekeres:

https://web.archive.org/web/2002061...com/projects/showproj.php?file=szeke1_prj.htm

Having gotten some electronics experience lately (I took the contextualelectronics.com course about using KiCAD to design PCBs), I decided to whip one up, Manhattan style, just for kicks.

Surprisingly, it worked!

Before constructing, I did throw it into LTSpice just to be sure the mosfet and resistors wouldn't get too hot.

The FETs are just 2N7000's.

The input caps are Kemet 1uF film caps.

The output caps are 330uF OS-Cons (this was a guess, I had no idea if they sound any good, I just guessed they'd be better than stock electrolytics due to better ESR).

The regulator is a 7809, with a 100uF electrolytic on the input and on the output. I was tempted to go with a fancier output cap for the regulator, but if you go too low with the ESR I've read you can cause oscillation in these simple, old regulators.

First I tested with 100 ohm R4 (the FET bias resistors), but everything was barely warm to the touch so I stepped up to 47 ohms, and that seems fine.

Producing a working result on my first try is very encouraging, but there's a lot more I feel I need to learn. For example, I only know enough LTSPice to simulate current levels and heat levels. What do people use to simulate what the actual THD will be?

Also, I was surprised I couldn't find much material on single-ended class A FET headphone amps which use small FETs (e.g. TO-92 package). I'm sure there are FETs which sound better or worse than the 2N7000, but I had trouble finding info like that. Again, I'm assuming that if I had some sort of software which had the IV curves for these FETs, I could simulate and find the THD?

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Philips GA222 - replaced power switch and platter spins at warp speed

My turntable has been in storage for decades, but it worked perfectly when I stored it. Unfortunately it spent time in an attic that gets hot, so I'm thinking something might have been affected by the heat. I followed a tip I found online for replacing the poorly-designed original power switch with one from a computer. The two power leads went to the top terminals, the brown transformer lead to the bottom left, and the blue transformer lead to the bottom right. The new switch worked perfectly, but when I start her up, the platter spins like a washer on spin cycle. Anyone have any ideas how I might troubleshoot this? I don't even know where to start.

FS: Matched pr type 45 triodes

Hello all.
Up for your consideration.

Super Silvertone Type 45 vacuum tubes matched and guaranteed AS NOS

This is the actual heading from the Ebay listing that I purchased these. These were purchased from a respected established Ebay dealer.

I paid $ 150.00 for the pair. Will take $ 25.00 off and sell for $ 125.00/pr.

I cannot post pics on this site. Send me your e-mail via PM and I will send pics and detailed pertinent data directly to you.

Here's the deal. For US buyers, shipping on you. I'll cover insurance.
International buyers, shipping and insurance on you. Please understand that I will only ship internationally if it can be insured, which leaves out the cheaper USPS method. Also I will not lie on a customs form.

This price is good for PayPal Friends and Family payment only. If no FF then PayPal fees will be added.

Thanks for looking and be safe

Cheers, Crazy Bill

Crossover ??'s on Prosound 2 Way

So I have a SoundTech 2 way 15" woofer with horn loaded compression driver tweeter. Looking at the crossover looks like it's not optimal to me. Treble is soft with a simple 1st order crossover at around 7-8Khz that I can tell. It uses a 2.2uF series cap in tweeter circuit. Tweeter is 8ohm. Also has a 16ohm padding resistor across tweeter. So am I miscalculating the crossover point and shouldn't it be more like 2-4 Khz?

Toroidal Transformer VA and Capacitance required for LJM 20.5 amplifier board?

Hello,

I am looking to build a dual mono amplifier with a pair of LJM 20.5 amplifier boards,

2 PCS L20.5 Ultra low distortion 0.0015% Power amplifer board KTB817 KTD104 200W|Amplifier| - AliExpress

and I am wondering what value VA toroidal transformer (35V-0-35V) I should use?

I was going to use a transformer from Parts Express,

toroidal 35V+35V - Parts Express Ships Fast and Ships Free.

My best guess is that 250VA per side should be fine for this amplifier at this voltage.

Next question, What overall capacitance value at what voltage do you think this amplifier requires?

These are the boards I am looking at,

A pair of these,

2PCS L15D/L20D/L25D and L/MX50 Series mono rectifier power supply board With speakers DC protection board|board|board boardboard power supply - AliExpress

or,

LJM 8 X 63V 2200UF Power Supply Board DIY PSU kit for Power Amplifier|kit supply|kit kitskit diy - AliExpress

I'm thinking the first board at 63 volts should be fine.

If you have a suggestion on a single power supply board and transformer VA value, please leave a reply as I am not married to the dual mono plan.

Thoughts, comments, suggestions?

Thank you,

David.

Need TV7 data setting for EC88/6DL4 (Not ECC88/6DJ8)

Hi,
New member here. Just a quick thread to see if any members had TV7 tube testers. I specifically need the data setting for a TV7 for a EC88/6DL4/6522/8255/E88C triode tube. The EC88/DL4 is not related in any way to a ECC88/6DJ8. I just acquired a quad of these made in the early 1960's by Amperex and they need to be tested. I've downloaded all the addendum updates for the TV7 series including Nolan Lee's and this tube is not listed in any of the documentation under all 5 of these tube type designations.
Would greatly appreciate any members feedback,
thank you in advance!
jim
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