This is from the Vitrohm ZCM data sheet. The larger resistor has lower current noise as it should for 20 k and higher. Below, noise no longer decreases as resistance decreases. The smaller resistor has the same behavior below 2 k. This results in lower current noise in the smaller resistor from about 7.5 k.
I don't get why this should be the case. The larger resistor body needs a wider trace to achieve the same resistance as the shorter trace on the smaller body.
PS: Vishay Draloric SMM0207 has the exact same graph for current noise
The non-linearity graph of the Vitrohm is also exactly the same. Was there a standardization or is Vitrohm trying to be a second source, much as many second sources for classic Japanese transistors simply copy the data sheet?
I recently came across a B&K CS-117 Preamp, it was part of a larger lot of stuff I dragged home and I was told it 'just quit working one day' but its former owner. Its spot clean inside an out.
I did Google search and saw that the transformer is a likely issue on these. I also searched for a manual or schematic but didn't see any.
With this thing plugged in, I'm seeing two voltages out of the transformer, both 24v and 13.5v The transformer has nothing on it saying what it is or what voltage it should be. Following the wires to the main boards, I can trace the power to the boards and can see power is getting to the switch.
The switch does nothing there's no light, no click, no relay noise, nothing. The fuse I found is good, and the switch tests out as far as continuity.
There's a few opp amps on the board but I have no idea what they do or if they could even be at fault but this seems like a power issue not a failed component.
After hearing it just stopped playing, I was expecting to see something more drastic or a dead transformer but from past experience, most transformers usually fail by either just not making power or by short circuit across the primaries.
This is producing voltage and I can follow power from the power supply area of the main board to various points, including the selector/power switch on the left side.
It does use an LC7818 chip on the output board which I see has been a failure point on some receivers but without a diagram, its hard to tell how its being used on this.
There are no indicator lights working on any of the switches, it does not pass audio in bypass mode.
It acts as if there is no power but I have voltage on the main board which tells me the transformer is not 'dead'. I'd at least expect some sort of function.
The lights on the switched do show continuity so their not burned out but they're seeing no power.
I'm certainly just a novice at these things but what I'm thinking is that if it won't bypass sound, the issue has to be in the switching of the IC on the output board? I would think that with the bypass switch depressed, it should function solely as a volume control and nothing else?
Does anyone have any experience with these?
In the past I have run across a failed LC7118 that failed on a 90's receiver where it was being used in the tape monitor circuit, and thus blocking sound from the outputs, but without a diagram I'm guessing, and then, if it is bad, what likely killed it?
Although I figured my next step is likely to pull both boards out and look closer to how the pcb is laid out but figured I'd ask here before I over think this thing.
Hoping this finds a few Castle Acoustics fans.
I am looking for complete dimensions (or heck, even if you had a beat up pair to sell) on the Castle Winchester speaker. I believe thy ceased producing them in the late '90's, finishing with a final version run of less than 100 pairs.
Would welcome cabinet makers to chyme in as I would love to discuss jobbing this out (I am in an apartment now so do not have wood working tool access).
Any cross-over and woofer/tweeter info and reverse engineering help is appreciated and I am willing to compensate for time and photos.
Much appreciated and I hope I can find help here,
Rob
raudioc
I tried to get a nice set; not by buying new stuff but collecting older but good working hifi parts. So I love my marantz Model 2225 (the blue light and the sound still turns me on..) MB quarts (!) NAD amp, and my mission 782 's.
I'm an engineering student who recently got into DIY audio, and I'm absolutely loving it so far. I started my journey on Reddit, but I quickly heard about this forum and had to check it out. I’m already amazed by the wealth of knowledge and expertise here—it's truly inspiring!
I'm excited to be a part of this community, learn as much as possible, and hopefully contribute in the future as I gain more experience. Thanks for having me!
Hi. I'm a new member from Sweden. I look for a community that can help me learn and grow. At the moment i try to repair an old Dynamic precision No1 amp. I communicate in Swedish and English and metric system. I struggle to understand more than a little German and French.
Can this amplifier be repaired by a competent amplifier repairman? For example, if the caps began to degrade, or the power supply conks out...etc.
I note that the amp was built 4-5 years ago and by a one-man shop. Unfortunately that young man has passed away. Hence, there are no schematics that i can find for replacement parts numbers/parameters and the company that produced the amp was shut down.
When power is supplied to power wire the amp turns on.
Remote has no power. Amp has no audio amp on. The only way this amp to turn on is supply power to remote connection.
The amp works 100% when power is supplied to 12+ connection without remote connection.
What should I be looking for or what controls turn on. (It has no relay)
My name is Matthæus, and I'm a new user at DIY Audio. I run my own creative marketing agency, where I provide brand consultancy to both new and established brands, and combine my work with speakers as a tool for research.
I'm still fairly new to speaker building, but very eager to learn more and continue experimenting with different designs and build.
Attached is my latest project using Monacor drivers and Fountek tweeter.
Hey fellow builders, designers and hobbyists, looking to learn and improve my audio engineering skills, even though I’ve made substantial improvements on my CAD audio designs, there’s still a long way to go. My friend and mentor passed away a few months ago, and I really missed how he helped me and enlightened my lack of knowledge and understanding. Maybe some of you knew him, Cees van Eijk from Skidmark Pedals. Great fellow builder.
After that brief introduction related to audio I want to share I'm an airline pilot, 37yo. Flying the Boeing 787 across both ponds. My significant other flies as well she’s a flight attendant for a low cost airline. I mention this cause she helps me a lot on the audio endeavor as wel,l she takes care of enclosure quality, epoxy resin topping, detailing and finishings…
15” Open Baffle 2-way with Live Edge Wood, Constant Directivity, Passive Xover and Punchy Bass
What would happen if a Magnepan MG1.7 and a Klipsch Heresy had a baby?
Many builders here have seen my Bitches Brew Open Baffle Speakers, the Flanagangsters, and Live Edge Dipoles. I love using slabs of live edge wood to make Dipoles. For this system I had a beautiful piece of Walnut in the garage. I wanted to create a passive design that would come as close as possible to these larger, active DSP systems while using a passive crossover, thus maintaining the simplicity of a traditional stand-alone speaker.
At only 35 pounds (16kg), these register at 1/2 to 1/3 the weight of the other designs listed above. Dimensions 28”H x 19”W x 18”D (71cm x 48cm x 46cm).
Sensitivity 93dB
Impedance 4 ohms
Power rating 100w/ch
Frequency Response 40Hz-20KHz
I wanted the expansive, room-filling sound of Open Baffle; and wanted to achieve bass reflex punch without sounding “boxy.” I also wanted Constant Directivity, meaning that when you move off axis, the level changes but the tonal balance does not. This provides excellent imaging for every seat in the house and not just the one “sweet spot.”
Above: Frequency response in real room, 1/6th octave. No attempt to exclude room reflections. Average of 5 positions at a distance between 1 and 2 meters.
Above: 1/6th octave frequency response at 0, 15, 30, 45, 60, 75 and 90 degrees.
Above: Polar plot from -90 degrees to +90 degrees on front plane of the speaker. Largely maintains constant directivity across the entire band, with cardioid pattern between 150Hz and 400Hz. (This is inevitable because of the U-frame enclosure and is the tradeoff incurred by extending the bass an octave downward to 60Hz, as compared to a flat baffle.) There's slight widening of the pattern around 1700Hz, just above the crossover frequency. Radiation is very even across a +/-30 degree listening window.
it works very well in an Open Baffle. The high Q means it already has +2dB built in bass boost to counteract the rolloff of the baffle, which starts at around 65Hz. Further down I’ll explain the Bass EQ circuit I designed to extract an extra 5.5dB between 40-50Hz.
The Satori is one of the best tweeters I’ve used. It has very high resolution and great imaging, while still retaining the gentle edge of a soft dome. Transparent and revealing without being excessively analytical.
I chose this tweeter because I didn’t want the sound of a traditional compression driver. The kind of horn one would typically mate this with might easily sound nasal or “shouty” despite whatever EQ magic one might throw at it. I wanted a tweeter that, when mounted in a waveguide, could keep up with the 94dB sensitivity of the woofer and even give an extra +1 or +2dB at the high end.
With its standard faceplate, this tweeter has about 94dB SPL in the 10-20KHz range and a waveguide raises SPL further below 10KHz.
“Lambda” U-Frame Open Baffle
I like using triangular “wings” on the sides of OB speakers to extend bass response. Without wings, these woofers will start rolling off at 120Hz and you’ll get little deep bass. With wings, or U-Frame dipole that is lambda shaped in the side view, the cutoff begins around 65Hz and drops 6dB per octave. The triangle shape keeps the distance from woofer to edge spread across a wide range rather.
I discovered a way to add 4-7dB in the 40-60Hz range so the sound is a little “plump” in the deep bass range. I describe this in the next section.
Passive Bass Boost
This design adds a 5.5dB boost at 45Hz using an unusual passive high pass filter. I can’t be the first person in history to do this, but I’ve never seen this explained or modeled anywhere else. These components are in section “1” of the crossover schematic: a 500uF capacitor and 20mH inductor.
I explain the circuit in section 1 in detail in my post “Open Baffle Bass Boost: +4 to +7dB w/ Passive Xover. No DSP.” I call it the "Marshall Bass Boost." Here you’ll find guidelines and examples for designing your own. It replaces the 25-ohm impedance peak at 41Hz with a 3-ohm dip, drawing almost 4X more power from the amplifier around 45Hz.
This also serves as a subsonic filter, protecting the woofer from signals below 40Hz. Signal falls to -10dB at 30Hz and -17dB at 20Hz. It provides substantial protection from out-of-band signals. Not only do dipoles suffer from rear wave cancellation, they are easily overdriven to large excursions by frequencies you can’t hear. This filter boosts the signal where it matters and cuts it where it doesn’t. The components required for this cost about $40 per channel and are well worth the investment.
Above: Large 20mH inductor and 500uF capacitor boost response at 45Hz.
Drive Signals for Each Driver
In the red curve below you can see the +5.5dB boost at 45Hz as well as the sharp filter.
Above: The signal reaching the Eminence Alpha 15A woofer is in RED. The signal to the SB TW29R tweeter (front) is in GREEN. The signal to the PRV WG230Ti tweeter (rear) is in BLUE.
Woofer crossover (Section 2 in the schematic)
The 1mH inductor, 10-ohm resistor plus LCR notch network in Section 2 of the schematic form a shelf filter with a deep null at 1900Hz. This suppresses the +12dB breakup mode of the Eminence woofer. However, I don't roll off the woofer above that frequency. This is because that would add even more phase shift. I avoid steep crossovers except when absolutely necessary. The woofer is already set back 3-4 inches (7-10cm) behind the plane of the tweeter, so a steep crossover would only make that problem worse.
Above: nearfield measurements of woofer and tweeter and the 1250Hz crossover frequency. The woofer rolls off naturally at 12dB/octave above 3KHz. (See the drive signal to the woofer a few paragraphs above, it heads towards 0dB at high frequencies.) The lack of additional filtering reduces group delay. In my opinion the minimal filtering just sounds better.
Matching Woofer to Tweeter
I’m stretching both drivers to the limits of their range. The 15” woofer start to beam above 1KHz, and the WG148R waveguide stops being directional below 2KHz. So there is a little discontinuity in the radiation pattern between 1-2KHz.
Above: Frequency response at 0, 15, 30, 45, 60, 75 and 90 degrees. Very nearly constant directivity across the band. At about 1500Hz you can see some “bunching” of the radiation pattern, where 30-45 degrees off axis, the output is slightly stronger than on-axis. This would go away if the waveguide was 8” (20cm) diameter instead of 6” (15cm). I chose an off the shelf Visaton waveguide, but a larger 3D printed waveguide would solve this. The bunching at 300Hz is because at this frequency, the radiation pattern is more cardioid than dipole.
Tweeter Crossover
The crossover (Schematic Section 3) for the TW29R is a 24dB/octave filter at 1250Hz. There is no getting around using a steep filter for a 29mm dome tweeter being asked to go so low.
Section 4 of the schematic is an RLC notch filter. It suppresses a minor peak at 3KHz. Some builders might not feel it’s necessary, but this detail erased a last bit of objectionable coloration and leaves the upper midrange silky smooth and just slightly recessed.
The slightly rising response on axis compensates for falling response off axis. When you average the 0, 15, 30, 45 and 60 degree curves together, you get a slightly downward-tilting response, which is my goal for voicing the speakers:
Above: Average of 0, 15, 30, 45 and 60-degree response on the front side of the speakers. Plot also includes 2nd and 3rd harmonic distortion.
Mounting the Satori Tweeter to the Visaton Waveguide
The Satori TW29R tweeter has a not-quite-flat faceplate which doesn’t match the WG148R waveguide. I had to add a bead of modeling clay about 3mm thick in order to fill the gap. You can see the modeling clay in the picture:
Rear Tweeter
The rear tweeter is a PRV WG230Ti. I chose it because it has smooth response and 105db sensitivity so you can easily pad it down to match the front tweeter. I find dipoles sound best when the rear output at high frequencies is a few dB higher than the front output. This adds spaciousness without interfering with detail.
Section 5 of the schematic shows a 7-ohm resistor in series with the PRV tweeter. You can choose any value resistor you wish. This value sounds best to my ears. Below is the rear output:
Above: Rear measurements at 0, 15, 30, 45, 60, 75 and 90 degrees off axis. The system sounds best to my ears when the rear tweeter has a rising response. If you build this system you can play with that resistor and find the value that sounds best to you.
I’m normally a fan of simple crossovers, but due to the multiple conflicting priorities in getting a 2-way passive Dipole speaker to achieve: punchy bass, smooth response, Constant Directivity, high efficiency, high power handling and ultra-transparent high end simultaneously, a price had to be paid. The price was a rather complex crossover. Fortunately it’s the parts count and perfectionistic details that are complex, not the essential concept.
A similar woofer with a curvilinear cone instead of straight-sided cone would likely not have the 1.9KHz breakup mode. It would also have wider dispersion above 1KHz and blend with the tweeter better. An 8” / 20cm waveguide would likewise blend better with the woofer. A more pricey version of this system could be executed with the SB Acoustics 15OB350 woofer and the SB Acoustics 29mm Beryllium Waveguide tweeter. (The crossover would have to be completely redesigned. It would still lend itself to the Marshall Bass Boost circuit.)
So… how do they sound?
These speakers throw a HUGE soundstage. They image very well everywhere in the room and have a very transparent and detailed yet silky and not-too-analytical high end. The soft dome tweeters are easy on the ears.
The bass is just slightly on the rich side, and lower midrange is warm and buttery. The overall tone is warm, spacious and detailed with a bit of extra sparkle on the top end. They are equally at home with jazz or rock. ZZ Top sounds terrific. “Burning Down the House” by the Talking Heads is an acid test for bass overload, because the bass drum and percussion parts have a lot of very low frequency energy that easily overloads many woofers, especially in OB and Reflex. The Marshall Bass Boost circuit protects these woofers from bottoming, and they can play quite loud. Bass drums and guitars are authoritative.
There is also a lot to be said for their high efficiency. They are easily 5-6dB more efficient than most audiophile speakers. They’re sensitive enough to use with “flea watt” Single Ended Tube amps.
Generally I like solid state amps better, but I do enjoy playing with tubes. Some speakers just sound better with tubes. These sound outstanding with my Yaqin MC-13L 40W amp, which has much more than enough power to drive these.
They excel with massed voices and percussion. Imaging is both spacious and precise with considerable depth. Instruments have a "bloom" and roundness that you almost never hear from standard box speakers.
My non-audiophile friends who walk in the room have an immediate positive reaction towards their appearance. The Walnut cabinets (made by Seth Cothron @studio38designs) look fantastic.
As Jerry McNutt, president of Eminence Speaker says, “The best way to not sound boxy is to not use a box.”
This is the drawing I gave my carpenter, which he used to build the speakers:
I'm looking to get into voice coil rewinding.
I have a few questions.
Where can I get some supplies?
Like a winder that can count turns?
Those metal cylinders of various sizes you use to build a new coil around? Not sure how to find these because I don't know what to call them.
Material to build the formers out of?
Is there anything I need to be aware of when buying magnet wire, other than gauge?
What do I use to hold the windings together? Epoxy? Varnish? Youtube videos showed epoxy. Slow cure?
I can replace voice coil assemblies and do reconing and refoaming already.
Played guitar for most of my life, but I currently have a bunch of free time, so I've been tinkering with setting up my guitar and changing pick ups. During the course of that, my amp needed a part soldered, so I did that, and when I was putting it back together, I pushed to hard on a cable connection and broke a few traces on the circuit board. So, here I am. Trying to figure that out.
Hi all, I came across a pair of Cambridge JQ 6.5 F drivers at local second hand shop. They state 12 ohms impedance and diameter is 17cm. They have a hefty magnet so probably a bass driver or mid. Does anyone know know anything about these? Glenn
Firstly, I would like to apologize if this has been asked numerous times, or if I am in the wrong part of the forums. I am new to the sound world in general.
With that out the way, I would like to ask you guys, how do you know these transistors are genuine, and what are the repercussions of using them if they are not? They are not for me, they are for my grandfather (pics of transistors attached) he has an old TA series SONY amplifier, and his transistors went out many, many years ago. He had a very hard time finding new ones, used ones, or any kind. He does live in Russia, so that may be the case, I am all the way in NYC. None the less, I promised him I'd go on this quest to find what he needs. My travels recently took me to Japan, but walking around Japan's most famous used tech stores and audio stores, I had no luck. Many of the sellers didn't even know what I was talking about, even when I showed them photos. Many just straight up told me these have never entered their shops. I was pretty upset with this, and when I got back to the states, I tried looking online one more time. I found these on eBay. I am pretty sure they are straight from China, the seller reassured me many times that they are in fact genuine and have been tested in the amplifier AND that they can be returned with money back if things don't go as planned. Can any of the members here, who are WAY smarter than me point me into the right direction on how to find out if these will work? Or am I just screwed? either way, thank you for reading!
Hy, I have some questions about opamp circuitry layout.
1.) Is it better to run input signal path over supply rail, if it means that running it around would result in much longer path... like 3 times longer?
2.) Is it bad to run signal input or output path over feedback loop or realy close to it?
3.) Can two feedback loops of different opamps be close together?
4.) Running input path of one opamp close to feedback loop or output path of other opamp?
5.) Running ground above anything should not be too big of a problem I suppose?
New member here, thanks for letting me join. I've been interested in music and hifi since I was a kid and built a handful of diy audio projects such as the Starving Student valve headphone amp and a pi streamer amongst others.
I'm here looking for inspiration as I head into retirement. I'm a qualified engineer and a passionate tinkerer.
Currently looking how to build a small, easily portable stereo amp for a digital piano.
I want to replace the df1700 in my dac in favor of either a df1704 or a sm5847.
which one of the two would be superior and and what are the main qualities of each?
(i.e if there is a difference in sound between them)
Hi, Can someone explain what difference is between CAN and RS485 connection from power inverter to lithium battery BMS. And if it matters what I use .
Both of my inverter and 5kWh battery has CAN and RS485 ports, and I'm not sure what to use. The manuals explain only how to config , settings..
Inverter is Growatt spf5000es , battery is Ampleness ( chinese brand ).
They sell also as bundle, and are compatible.
Thank you.
- Bruno.
I have been working out details of my 3-way for some time and doing some measurements and it turns out I need two 10" woofers to meet my goals, It'll be a closed box, the woofers will be in parallel (let's leave aside impedance issues 😉, they will be LP crossed sharp with 4-order at around 200Hz. The front baffle will be ca. 115cm high, the depth around 40cm and the woofers will be more less in the middle of the side speaker wall, one on the left, one on the right, at the same position. Placing them on the side wall makes the box most visually friendly for me but I also find OK the fact that it does not radiate directly to the listener as for the main frequency range I prefer more prominence for smaller drivers (I will use 3" fullranges for the mids).
Are there any significant acoustic drawbacks of such design ?
I have a PCB daughter card with a TI PCM1794 DAC. I don't have any sound output. I have this schematic for the setup. Can anyone tell me what to look for? This card was built as a replacement for the obsolete PCM1702U. I have tried validating clock inputs on pins 4,5,6 & 7. I don't measure any output on pin 17/R18 or pin 18/R19. I can only assume something is not correct on the inputs 1,2,3,10 or 11. There are a few DNP parts listed and the PCB is empty in that location. I have pictures of the clock signals that I can upload if that helps anyone.
Bought a set of Cerwin Vega 300 SE 12" 3 way speakers from Sears back in 87, and besides changing the woofer surrounds occasionally, they've been trouble free, until now. One mid range speaker has stopped working. The speaker itself is good as I swapped it in the other cabinet and it works. When I remove the crossover(and connect all the wires again) and check volts with an analog multimeter, I get needle movement(with music playing) on the mid range speaker wires in the good cabinet but not the bad one. I also unplugged the connector on the crossover board(circled in yellow) and did a resistance test on the wires going to the midrange potentiometer(?). I get a resistance change when I rotate the dial as if the mid speaker adjustment knob has conductivity and is working so that part is ruled out. But when I play music and volt test the pins on the connector on the board(circled in yellow) I don't get any needle movement so it has to be a component on the crossover board. Any suggestions on what to test on the board. I've read elsewhere that it's unlikely the big yellow mylar film capacitors are bad because they rarely go out but like everything else you read on the internet. Should I remove them one by one to test them or is there something else worth checking 1st? Thanks
This is my first design in progress in LT-Spice and rather unconventional one. The key point is the amp does not use the op-amp in any gain stages and is completely BJT based. After improving the gains of input and output CFP stages using a variant of the bootstrapping technique, I am getting 0.000006% THD@1KHz, yes, that's right - 0.06 PPM. (at least in simulation - best case scenario and I am aware that it is almost impossible to achieve in real-life). I will be glad to publish the design here once the amp is built.
The observation is after the above-mentioned gain improvement, 2nd, 4th, 5th and 8th hormonic peaks in the FFT are pointing downwards. My concern at the moment is, does it indicate a flaw in the design? Should they not be pointing upwards? Or because of RMS this can be ignored? Am I using he best practice? Are there any known impact of such traits in the FFT on the sound quality or musicality.
Your Point-of-View is welcome experts and stalwarts. Your views will help me correct the design flaws, if any. Attached is the FFT diagram
These Monacor woofers below are all good candidates for crossing to a 1.4CD at about 700-800hz. For both 12inchers there's a 500hz dip that worries me because of my intended crossover point. Might they work a little higher in cross? Would hope if the 12 can work...smaller cabinet. The 15 does look like the right deal though. Problem overall is they all have limited x.ax, which bothers a bit because I want to take a sealed/smaller volume and do an LT and eq to achieve lower bass.
Pulling my hair out on this one. After removing two amplifier boards from their heatsink the mica insulators under the MJL21193/94 output transistors had delaminated, so I replaced them with a silicone pad. Now I have a pronounced hum and DC slowly builds up on the output until the speaker protection relay kicks out. Both boards are doing this even with the inputs shorted. Nothing is shorted through the silicone pad and the +-40v power supply checks out.
Before I dig further, I was just wondering if there is anything about the mica vs silicone that could be affecting this. Like capacitance or leakage at higher voltages?
Dear Guys, im urgently looking for two pieces of those caps to finish my modification. So, if you can find something back in your drawers and are willing to let it go - please let me know.
I have a pair of Dali Spector 6 speakers that have been sitting in my upstairs storage for a long time. The reason they are sitting in the storage is that I have tried them with several different amplifiers but I can't get the performance I want. The bass is too boomy (my room is about 40m2), the mids are weak and the stage is quite narrow.
I recently thought about upgrading the crossover and instead of a passive crossover, an active crossover + linear amplifier (for example a pair of LM3886 chipamps) seems like a better choice.
Dali's datasheet gives 2.5K as the crossover frequency. However, I don't know what kind of crossover (6db-12db or so) is in it. (I opened the rear binding post cover but I couldn't reach the crossover because the cables were too tight)
Do you think the idea of active crossover + chipamps would improve the sound?
If so, what kind of crossover would you recommend?
Thanks in advance.
Hello,
I am looking for advice on how to troubleshoot a Nakamichi CD Player 4 that quit working suddenly. It does not read the CD. Here is some preliminary testing that I have done. Not sure where to go from here.
Opened the unit and found that on power up the laser carriage moves to the forward position and trips the leaf switch (checked OK) and then stops. Usually in most other CD players that I have seen, the carriage first moves to the extreme forward position, trips the switch and then moves back and forth before it settles down. In my case the back and forth movement is not observed after the initial forward move.
The laser is working and the lens moves up and down. I have checked all clocks, voltages and the related transistor voltages as shown in the schematic. All look good. The only concern that I have is that the VCO output from the Sony CXA1082BS is not 8.64Mhz. It is 10.5Mhz. Adjusting VR105 to one extreme end only brings the frequency down to 9.5Mhz. Not sure if this is the problem and what is the fix. I would like to be sure it is indeed CXA1082BS that is defective before changing it.
Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Veej
Hello, I'm looking for Tad Evolution One / TAD E1- the first model from 2011/.
loudspeakers service manual.
I want to try my Pioneer S-1ex with the crossovers from TAD-E1.
e-mail :Staykov1975@abv.bg
TAD E1 crossovers - the coils resistance is missing
Thank to everyone in advance.
Hi ! there is an interesting video tour of PMC factory on youtube
I was surprised to see that the treatment of the dome of their mighty 3" midrange is done by hand 😵 with some kind of secret compound
Anyway i have some questions
Have you ever treated a driver ? how ? what have been the results ?
if i had mass to the diaphragm of a driver my guess is that the fs should go down and the Qts up Am i wrong ?
i have two domes at hand that i could play with they are now out of spec
To be honest i do not know the original specs but i cant think of a 2" dome with fs around 1kHz I would expect at least half that
The domes are the only parts that can have aged badly and I cant find dome replacements for now
i dont think that ferrite magnets have lost their strength
I’ve been reviewing several posts, but must of all address complex PCB design 4 layers whilst others address self etched ones. I’m looking for the most common do's and don'ts on PCB design I’m uploading an example on one of the latest PCB's designed, I thought I was doing ok, avoiding to cross traces from one side another. Also avoiding vias and keeping things tidy. Now I know I’m supposed to do thicker traces over 20mil instead of the 6mil I was doing. Also the top plane is hatched with VR just because I like how it looks, but apart from being unnecessary to hatch it, it might also do wrong in the design the bottom plane is solid GND. I also know power traces must be cross on a 90° angle. In this example there are no power crossings just one sole signal crossing, also I go in between DIP holes with some traces, I guess I should avoid those as well, please let me know. What are your suggestions on what would you do to improve this design cause it tends to get noisy due to the charge pump IC
Good bye to dear friend and fellow builder, such an scholar he was my mentor on diy pedals, and passed away past April. Great person, leaves wife and daughter with deep sorrow and grief
Hi everyone, I was wondering if high power DIY solid state amplifiers have any fans here.
What are the highest power class AB (or linear class G, not switched rails) build that anyone recalls being posted here. Specifically built from scratch, not a kit. Original designs and clones both qualify.
My aged hifi has recently been introduced to my new Samsung smart TV and is now producing pleasing sound which is better quality than the smart television itself. There is just one problem, mains hum. My hifi which is comprised of a Marantz CD50, and a Denon TU-260 tuner feeding an Audiolab 8000a which is driving Mission 763 speakers has always had some 50hz mains hum, right from when it was new in the mid 1980s. However recently I have moved to a new area and suspect the hum is louder. I have tracked the source of this hum down to the amplifier, specifically the amps power supply’s toroidal transformer. Just to confirm this was done with the amp disconnected from all the other components and with its lid off. In this state you can clearly trace the hum to the transformer in the 8000a. I have tried loosening/tightening the toroids mounting bolt and rotating the coil to no avail. Reading around the web I have found that this type of hum can be caused by high mains voltage which saturates the cores magnetic field producing magnetostriction and mechanical vibration, i.e. hum. I have measured my mains supply and found it to be 252 volts, which just about conforms to UK specs. The label on the transformer reads Talema 7529P1S2. Talema have a impressive website and catalogue of transformers but I cannot find anything about this particular transformer. I read somewhere its a special model for audiolab.
Now for my big question, has anyone actually sorted this hum by winding some extra turns into the primary winding of the transformer. I have seen this suggested on a forum, 20 turn were suggested. I guess the theory goes this will reduce the magnetising current and noise. I have lots of questions? but if it will fix the hum problem and also make the amp run a little cooler I am interested, not that this one runs particularly hot.
Propose to break into the primary winding where the coil emerges from the toroid and will need to wind in the correct direction, its a 50:50 guess but should be able to identify correct direction. propose to add 5 turns then test then 5 more up to 20 turns total then evaluate.
Any suggestions for about what wire to use, I have some insulated 2mm 28 gauge .3mm stranded wire rated at 17.5A which I think is intended for automotive use so is probably completely inappropriate as I don’t know its breakdown voltage. I was thinking of doing a test run with this wire and the amp supplied through a light bulb current limiter. Final installation with varnished transformer wire (of suitable dimension) with extra insulation layer of kaptan tape above and below.
I am out of my depth in the precise details of the specifics of this sort of problem but about 5 years before I bought this hifi I trained in this sort of stuff and then worked as an engineer for 30yrs. I take the safety aspect of electricity very seriously, which is why I am doing a lot of reading, thinking and consulting those that know more than I.
Sorry for length of post. P
Since I have gained so much information from this site and other audio forums, I thought it was time to show some of the speakers I have made over the past few years. Most of my speakers use a dipole midrange tweeter similar to the older Apogee speakers I also have a front-loaded quarter wave V horn along with some more traditional three way speakers. While I do show my speakers on my Aspen Acoustics website, I build audio speakers for the love of the hobby and my listening enjoyment. If I sell a few speakers to some friends or local audiophiles that’s fine but I do not build speakers for the “business” side of things. I build speakers for the love of this hobby and I have learned a great deal over the past twenty years. Feel free to ask me any questions about these speakers. I still need to add a section on my web page with more technical details such as the cross-over points and frequency response graphs. The speakers can be found at http://www.aspenacoustics.com/
are they targeting the car audio market ?
why you want to load your PA amps to 1 ohm ??
4 ohms i think is the minimum
i read somewhere that 8 ohms was better even that you do not get the most of the amp
but will give you better.....cant remember the term
it was something that has to do with the impedance and power over the driver operating freq range
cant remember
I’m having trouble with a Sony STR-6055 MPX board in the tuner which I’ve read is very common with this model. My voltages are pretty far off. I barely touched Q401 and a leg snapped, super thin. It’s a 2SK23, no other info on it, no Idss ranking. I read that 2SK117 is a good fit, but then not because of high ciss/crss.
I saw someone say they replaced this exact Q401 with a 2N4393 with a vgsoff of 1.17v and it’s of 8.45 mA and that it worked well enough. I don’t know what they used to get their measurements.
The device that is in here has a small little nubbin of metal still sticking out of the case that used to be the leg, so I can still measure it with a Peak DCA75. It measures with a vgsoff of 1.71v and a idss of 4.92 mA. Seems a decent way off of what he used. Though this one may be defective and not measuring as it did when new.
Here it is in circuit. It has about 15v on it.
I’m curious if what I have would make a good replacement.
2SK170bl. I only have BL unfortunately, on this same tester they are measuring with an Idss of 6.5ish and up. So would be in line perfectly with what that other person used (2N4393). I have hundreds so would be cool to use.
2SK30A. Idss seems a bit lower in the 3-ish range. I have about 25 or so
2N5457. These have an Idss on the low side, about 2-1/2. Again not very many, maybe 20
2N5458. These seem to be fairly dead on, Idss of around 4-1/2 to 6. Only have 20 so if something else works better that would be nice. Not sure if this is a good fit anyways. Luckily it’s still available so I can buy more.
I also have several smd options I can put on adapter board. For example 2SK209 in Y, GR, and BL.
What are thoughts? Go with what the other person used and use one of the 2SK170s or should I use the 2N5458, or something else? Not sure how close it needs to be.
I have a pair of Jamo D590s, these have a nominal impedance of 4 ohms, but does anyone have an impedance curve for these speakers? I want to know how kind they really are to the amplifier.
In Philips vintage cd player models (so as in high grade brands like e. g. Krell, SAE, Proceed, Mark Levinson, Micromega) there are a often the MAB8441P in use but with a wide range of different programming codes.
In the meantime probably I have find out, that there are follow groups of different MAB's with mask programmable ROM: 1) MCU for Servo MAB8441P Txxx (for the servo PCB resp. servo section on main board with TDA 5707/5708 resp. TDA8807/8808 - most versions are "T012", "T062" and "T164" - maybe all forward compatibility resp. upward compatibility) 2) MCU for Display and control MAB8461P Wxxx (e. g. "W105" or "W079") 3) MCU for "Fav Track" selection MAB8421P Fxxx (a special feature to find in any few models)
4) MCU for Servo + Display and control (single MCU solution) e. g. MAB8441P "T105" and "T107"
Concerning the successor-MCU variants - probably also in mask programmable ROM version (mostly Motorola's SC/XC/ZC series) - I can't give a statement concerning differences.
Interesting is the fact, that in most service manuals Motorola's MC68HC05 series is to find in the part list,
But according the images of most main PCB's in a lot of CD player are to find one (sometimes more than one) IC from Motorola's SC/XC/ZC series.
From a wide range of models based on Philips transport mechanism CDM1-4 (from previous repairs and from PCB images found on the web) I have try find out the used MCU's. Of course, various reading errors cannot be ruled out - it may also be that the MCU ICs mentioned were only intended for certain batches, which means that other software versions were also used for the same model - i.e. different type designations for the ICs the ones I specified.
A) MCU IC's in CD player models with CDM-3 (>TDA1540)
KRELL MD-1 It's a Transport – SAA7210P MAB8441P T164 (Servo) CDM-3
KRELL MD-10 It's a Transport – SAA7210P CDM-3
LUXMAN D-500 2 x PCM1701P-K – SM5843AP CDM-3
LUXMAN D-500X’s TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) CDM-3
LUXMAN D-500X’s II TDA1541A-S1 (Single / Double Crown) CDM-3
MICROMEGA DUO.CD. Transport MAB8441P T162 (Servo) MAB8441P T018 (display processor same like in SAE's model "D103)" NSM4202A CDM-3/CDM-9 Pro
MICROMEGA TRIO.CD.2 It's a Transport – SAA7310GP CDM-3
STUDER A730 TDA1541A-S1 (Double Crown) CDM-3
B) MCU IC's in CD player models with CDM-1 and CDM-1/MKII (>TDA1540)
ALTIS AUDIO CDT 1 It's a Transport CDM-1/MKII
ARCAM DELTA 170 (serial < 2350) It's a Transport – SAA7210P ZC86606P (Display) CDM-1/MKII
ARCAM DELTA 170.2 (serial > 2350) It's a Transport – SAA7310GP CDM-1/MKII
ARCAM DELTA 170.3 It's a Transport – SAA7310GP ZC86606P (Display) MAB8441P T157 (Servo) CDM-1/MKII
AUDIOLABOR 531 PCM1702 CDM-1/MKII
BARCLAY DIGITAL CABERNET It's a Transport – SAA7310GP CDM-1/MKII
BARCLAY DIGITAL M1 CD It's a Transport CDM-1/MKII
CAMBRIDGE AUDIO CD3 4 x TDA1541A – SAA7220P/B MAB8441P T164 (Servo) CDM-1/MKII MAB8441P T062 NSM4202A
CAMBRIDGE AUDIO CD3M It's a Transport CDM-1/MKII
ELITE ELECTRONICS Jx2 TDA1541A CDM-1
EMT 981 BARCO PROFESSIONAL TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) MAB8441P T164 (Servo) CDM-1/MKII
GRUNDIG CD-9009 FineArts 2 x TDA1541A-S1 – CXD1244 CDM-1/MKII
B&O Beocenter 8000 9000 9300 8500 9500 CD control board: MAB 8441P T164 (Servo)
KRELL CD-1 CS4328-KP MAB8441P T164 (Servo) MAB8461P W105 (Display) CDM-1/MKII
KRELL CD-DSP 2 x PCM61P-J + Motorola XSP56001 CDM-1/MKII
KRELL CD-DSP Mk2 2 x PCM61P-K + Motorola DSP CDM-1/MKII
KRELL MD-2 It's a Transport – SAA7210P MAB8441P T164 (Servo) CDM-1/MKII
KRELL MD-20 It's a Transport – SAA7210P, MAB8441P T164 (Servo) MAB8461P W105 (Display) MAB8421P F050 CDM-1/MKII Login to view embedded media (Krell MD-20) http://bbs.hifidiy.net/thread-1289393-1-1.html (various Krell vintage CD Player models)
MARANTZ CD-12 It's a Transport CDM-1
MARANTZ CD75 II TDA1541A – SAA7220P/B CDM-1/MKII XC86618P
MARANTZ CD75 II SE TDA1541A – SAA7220P/B CDM-1/MKII XC86518P
MARANTZ CD-75DX TDA1541A – SAA7220P/B CDM-2 / CDM-4/11
MARANTZ CD-80 TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) XC409025P/SC409011P P111 CDM-1/MKII
MARANTZ CD-85 TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) XC68HC24P+MC68HC11A0P CDM-1/MKII
MARANTZ CD-94 TDA1541A – SAA7220P/A SAA7210P/M4804A MAB8441P T082 "M80C51F-121 HC11017262" (OKI) CDM-1
MARANTZ CD-94 Mk II 2 x TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) "M80C51F-121 HC11017262" (OKI) CDM-1
MARANTZ CD-95 2 x TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) CDM-1
MARANTZ CD-95DR It's a Transport – SAA7210P CDM-1
MARANTZ CD-99DR It's a Transport – SAA7210P CDM-1
MARANTZ CD-99SE 2 x TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) CDM-1
MARANTZ CD-99SE Limited 2 x TDA1541A-S1 (Double Crown) CDM-1
MARANTZ CD880J TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) CDM-1/MKII
MCINTOSH MCD7007 TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) MAB8441P T164 (Servo) MAB8461P W079, MAB8421P F050, CDM-1/MKII
MICROMEGA TRIO.CD. It's a Transport CDM-1/MKII
MICROMEGA CD F1 Premium TDA1541 SAA7220P/B MAB8441P T082 (Servo) CDM-1/MKII / CDM-4/26
MICROMEGA "SOLO H" SAA7310GP SAA7321GP MAB8441P T164 (Servo) MAB8441P T018 (Display) NSM4202A, CDM-4/25
MICROMEGA "DUO" (Transport) SAA7310GP MAB8441P T162 (Servo) MAB8441P T018 (Displaypr wie SAE D103) NSM4202A, CDM-9pro
MICRO CD-M2 (Marantz CD94, Philips CD960) TDA1541 CDM-1
MICRO CD-M100 TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) CDM-1
MICRO CD-M2000X TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) CDM-1
MUSEATEX MELIOR CD-D It's a Transport – SAA7310GP CDM-1/MKII
PHILIPS CD-80 TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) CDM-1/MKII
PHILIPS CD-85 TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) CDM-1/MKII
PHILIPS CD304 Mk II TDA1541 – SAA7220P/A – SAA7210P CDM-1
PHILIPS CD880 TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) CDM-1/MKII
PHILIPS CD960 TDA1541 – SAA7220P/A – SAA7210P CDM-1
PHILIPS CDD882 It's a Transport – SAA7210P CDM-1/MKII
PHILIPS CDV496 TDA1541A – SAA7220P/B – TDA1542 CDM-10
PHILIPS LHH1000 TDA1541A-S1 (Single / Double Crown) CDM-1
PRIMARE 204 CD 2 x PCM58P – SM5803APT CDM-1/MKII
PROCEED MRC100 2 x PCM58P – SM5813APT MAB8441P T164 (Servo), U3090MG, Futuba FV112 (VFD) MAB8461P W105 CDM-1/MKII
PROCEED MRC300 2 x PCM58P – SM5813APT – YM3623B U3090MG, Futuba FV112 (VFD) MAB8461P W105 CDM-1/MKII
PROCEED PCD 2 x PCM58P – SM5813APT – YM3623B CDM-1/MKII
PROCEED PCD2 2 x PCM58P – SM5813APT – YM3623B MAB8441P T164 (Servo), U3090MG, Futuba FV112 (VFD) MAB8461P W105, CDM-1/MKII
PROCEED PCD3 2 x PCM63P-K – SM5803APT – CS8412-CP CDM-1/MKII
PROCEED PDT It's a Transport – SAA7210P CDM-1/MKII
PROCEED PDT2 It's a Transport – SAA7210P MAB8441P T164 (Servo), U3090MG, Futuba FV112 (VFD) MAB8461P W105 CDM-1/MKII
PROCEED PDT3 It's a Transport – SAA7310GP CDM-1/MKII
PROCEED MRC100 2 x PCM58P – SM5813APT MAB8441P T164 (Servo), U3090MG, Futuba FV112 (VFD) MAB8461P W105 CDM-1/MKII
PROCEED MRC300 2 x PCM58P – SM5813APT – YM3623B U3090MG, Futuba FV112 (VFD) MAB8461P W105 CDM-1/MKII
PROCEED PCD2 2 x PCM58P – SM5813APT – YM3623B MAB8441P T164 (Servo), U3090MG, Futuba FV112 (VFD) MAB8461P W105, CDM-1/MKII
PROCEED PDT2 It's a Transport – SAA7210P MAB8441P T164 (Servo), U3090MG, Futuba FV112 (VFD) MAB8461P W105 CDM-1/MKII
RADFORD WS1 TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) SAA7210P, SAA7220P, MAB8441P T157, XC86606P CDM-1/MKII
(PHILIPS CD-782 TDA1541 MAB8441P T113 / MAB8441P T120 MC6805L8/XC86606P/XC86608P TDA1541 – SAA7220P/A CDM-4/11)
PHILIPS CD-304 TDA1540 MAB8440P, C042 (Servo-Proz.) MAB8420P, C033 (Displayproz.) CDM-1
PHILIPS CD-304 MkII TDA1541 MAB 8441P, T016 (Servo-Proz.) MAB8420P C033 (Displayproz.)CDM-1
REVOX B 126 TDA1541A – SAA7220P/B CDM-1 / CDM-4/27
REVOX B 226 TDA1541 – CDM-1
I have for sale the Q17 Turbo (a open source project of Quad 405) stereo amplifier set with I believe all parts to assemble two modules (no PSU or any other parts included, just bare Q17 Turbo amplifier PCBs with parts to stuff them). You will receive 3 PCBs.
Amplifier modules have all been assembled and tested, so you can just install them, you can see pictures on post #22
Required DC voltage is between +/-55Vdc and +/-60Vdc, currently tested at +/-58Vdc.
180$USD + shipping **
** From the pictures below, only the Q17 amplifier modules are for sale. The power supply, speaker protection or anything else you see on the pictures are not included.
Will only ship to Canada and USA,everywhere else modules will ship assembled and tested. There will be an extra fee of 50$USD for this. Reason for shipping all assembled is there is much less work to be done on the customs side, as EU requires every parts to be detailed.
Let me introduce my newest build:
a "CX Expander/Decoder"
Some month ago I leafed through my old electronic magazines and found articles and circuits for a "CX noise reduction system" for vinyl records.
The system was introduced around 1980. It uses specially coded LPs, but those can also be listened to without decoder.
Strangely enough, I can not remember having read about it at the time. So that was new to me and I became curious.
One of the circuits is quite simple by using a special CX-IC from Hitachi: HA12044. This is actually still to get as NOS. So I bought such an IC and made a board design for the circuit.
Today the device has been finished and immediately tested.
It works better than expected.
You hear almost no more running noise from the record; e.g. in empty grooves between music pieces.
With the cx-records quiet music passages are almost completely noise-free. But noises due to scratches and dirt etc. on the record can not be suppressed by the system, of course.
I was able to get some mint used CX LPs. There were not so many titles made with CX back then, and most of them do not match my taste in music, but I find the system so interesting that I wanted to try it.
(the same, at my own site, in german: CX-Decoder )
I have just completed my first crossover modification with surprising results. Would love to get some feedback to help understand what I'm hearing.
So, I have modified the crossover in one of my B&W DM602S3 speakers. My goal was to tame the "fatiguing" nature of these speakers and I've partially applied The changes discussed here https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/b-w-dm602-s3-crossover-mod.328314/post-6826338.
Essentially, I have converted the first order LPF to a second order, putting a 4.7 uF capacitor and 1.5 ohm resister in parallel with the driver ( hopefully that is the right terminology). My understanding is that this second order change would cause the midrange driver to drop off at a steeper rate, hopefully reducing some unwanted higher frequency resonances.
Well, I wasn't sure what the change in audio would be but I did not expect this. The sound is markedly clearer, perhaps even brighter, although I am not prepared to say more or less fatiguing yet. The unmodified speaker sounds ... "Compressed" in comparison. Not sure how else to describe it. Definitely lacking the clarity I'm getting from the modified speaker.
I have to wonder if it's the circuit change or the quality of parts that has made the most difference. I did not spend much on the jantzen caps and miles resistors but I'm betting they are better than the stock parts.
Anyway, would love to know what the experts think about my experience. I for one think I might be a believer in quality caps now.
Hi, I need a rather long audio cable 8 meters or so to connect my desktop DAC to my amplifier. I was thinking of using either a coaxial cable for microphones or a data cable, and making the cable myself.
Out of curiosity, I cut open an old 10-meter HDMI cable that I no longer need. I measured the capacitance between one of the wires and its shielding, it came out to be around 400pF. Is this too high? I’ve read that somewhere between 50-100pF per meter is typically okay.
My questions are:
Does the type of cable matter? For example, can I use microphone cables, data cables, or coaxial cables, as long as they are shielded and don’t have excessive capacitance ? . I’m not able to measure the inductance of the cable, but maybe I can calculate it.
My HDMI cable has multiple pairs of two wires that are shielded, I was thinkin to pair the two wires for signal and it's shield for each channel, and ground the main shielding maybe the other non pair wires as well to GND.
One wire to it's shielding measure around 380pF and 7ohm. if I parallel them i get around 800pF and 3.5ohm .
Would this HDMI cable work well ? .
Something like this:
My Father bought power tools "in case I need it" and stored them unused for years in an unheated workshop.
I inherited several and just unpacked a Ryobi plunge router to use in Speaker cabinet construction. It seems unused but ran for less than a minute then stopped and won't restart.
Shaft spins freely and all electrical wiring etc test fine.
However, upon trying to remove the brushes to examine I found them to be stuck solid. I removed the brush holder assembly (30 year old Ryobi came with manual, parts list and exploded diagram !)
The carbon brushes are full sized, new, and seized due to corrosion in their (brass?) holders.
I've soaked them in contact cleaner for some time but to no avail.
The Router is too old to get replacement parts but otherwise in 'as new' condition so I am loathe to just bin it.
Anyone know how I can free the brushes ? Preferably so they can be reused.
The U.S. president-elect said Monday night that on his first day back in the White House, he would impose a 25 per cent tax on all goods imported from Canada and Mexico.
It means that I must add 25% more on each amp to export to USA. Amplifier kit markup is very very low. In order to survive, I will add this cost to the buyers.
I'm a newbie and need your help for rebuilding the PSU of my Counterpoint SA-5.1. This is what I'm talking about:
And this is the schematics for it. Remember, Counterpoint schematics are known to be different then what is really inside. That's the beauty of owning a Counterpoint 🙂
My starting point was to replace the first 100uf cap with a smaller value cap due to recommendations of Counterpoint experts here. As you see in the schematics, that cap is the first cap after the 6CA4 rectifier, and exceeds the datasheet values of 6CA4 tubes. Searching for a cap is slippery surface when you have little criterias. At some point I decided to use a film cap at due to the small PSU chassis of SA-5.1 I decided to built a new one from the beginning. This is the original PCB of the PSU. It had some works on it, left from the previous owners:
I'm lucky enough to have a new designed PSU board by our member Pars. He made some corrections to the original design. I'm planing to use this board on my rebuilt:
In my built I'll use a bigger chassis than this one, so I'll have plenty of place.
One of the changes I'm planning is the circuity at the main power switch. SA-5.1 is always on, to keep the heaters powered whenever the preamp is plugged in. The power switch controls the power to the heater on the rectifier tube only, which then powers up the HV section, and turns the preamp on. Our member VivaVee and Pars suggested a delay circuit which will turn on the heater immediately and HV section after a delay. VivaVee also suggested the Morgan Jones book but I'd be glad to hear any more help.
I'll change the electrolytic capacitors to film caps, add a IEC plug to the back. I may consider to omit the PCB and convert it to a point-to-point wiring, but I'm not experienced enough to do that.
Since there is a big transformer along with a 6AC4 tube in this case I want to add a thick enough case on the xfrmr to shield it. BTW, I'll use a Plitron toroidal xfrmr in the new PSU. I ordered Ott's book and looking for a bargain copy of Morrison's book.
Ok, let this be a start to the topic. I hope the helpful people on this forum join to this conversation.
Hi, I've come across a pair of Wharfdale W4's in OK condition. Well the cabinets and grilles look fine. Do you consider them worth getting and renovating? I've just about finished a pair of W3's and I am intrigued by these larger brothers. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. All the best, Craig
I'm going in another direction with my audio system so I'm offering my custom Audio Note Kits (ANK) Dac 2.1 for sale.
Info about the kit: https://ankaudiokits.com/product/dac-2-1/
I bought the kit from hificollective uk.
It's the "B" version with I/V transformers.
Mains transformer and choke are custom wound by AE Europe.
I added an usb input with the Singxer F1 XMOS usb to s/pdif interface.
Most caps and resistors are Audio Note, Jensen and Takman,
Some very nice NOS tubes (Raytheon 6X5WGT, Siemens ECL 82 and Philips MiniWatt E188CC SQ). I have some more tubes for the dac that I'm willing to add.
Vandamme cabling.
On/off switching is through a Hypex sofstart module
All this is wrapped in a self made solid padouk wood case with aluminium face and back plates from Modushop.
I also have new, bare pcb's for the M2x power supply and the dac board.
Manuals and schematics available.
Building and designing the unit was the biggest joy for me and it's been in my system for quite a while, but now i've moved on to different projects and it's time to create some space on my bench.
There is a slight hum, probably a ground issue.
Check out the pics and when interested, make me a fair offer.
I'm in the Netherlands. Willing to ship at buyers cost & risk.
My name is Matt, and I’m new to the community. I am a passionate admirer of JBL, especially the 4343 and 4345 models. I am reaching out to ask for your help so that I can try to fulfill a big dream: building a 4343 and finally having a speaker like this.
Unfortunately, when I was a child, my father couldn’t afford such a wonderful speaker. Sadly, he is no longer with us, but I promised him that I would make one. This way, whenever I sit down to listen to music, I can feel his presence even more strongly by my side.
I would be deeply grateful if anyone could help me achieve this dream by sharing the cabinet designs and measurements. Therefore, I would like to respectfully request, if possible, the drawings and dimensions of the wooden cabinet for the JBL 4343.
I have always admired these incredible speakers but never had the financial means to own an original. However, I decided to pursue my dream and dedicate myself to building one, bringing a little joy and the satisfaction of having such a speaker in my home.
I sincerely thank you in advance for your attention and support. I would be immensely grateful for the opportunity to connect with someone who could help me with this project.
Greetings friends. This 6N1P Headphone Amplifier has been bouncing around in my head for a while, and I had a few questions about construction and usage.
Circuit is a White Cathode Follower adapted from the Morgan Jones Headphone Amplifier. I also plan to use the Hammond 269AX and I will start with AC power for the heaters, elevated 85-90v. If hum is an issue I will build a DC heater circuit.
questions:
Does R7 take the load when headphones are not plugged in?
With a switching jack, should load resistors be installed to take the load when headphones are not plugged in?
Should headphones be plugged in during power-up or shut-down?
Should the signal return be connected directly to the circuit ground, or separated by a resistor + x2 cap?
Could this unit function as a preamp for a tube power amp?
I've been designing this 3 way desktop monitor for some months now. The only driver I'm not 100% on is the woofer. I have room for 6", even a 7", but no bigger. Iron's law is taking over and preventing me from letting anything hit very low.
I have 0.5' cubic space to play with. I can probably push that a little more but I'd need another 0.5' cubed more to really make an impact. Seams it is wha
They all measure out the same sealed. I can vent any one of these by making the stand of the model into the port. CAD pretty much gives me free range to do anything I want.
Since they all will come pretty close to hitting as low as the others its really just which is optimal from 800hz and down. If you've used any of these and have any input I'm all ears.
This 6" white ceramic woofer looks like a shoe in. It looks like it will work. I've seen it called dull but then also seen it highly praised. The current model uses this but it is easily modified to accept any of the others. 12mm of XMAX so can possibly bass boost it.
This is the carbon fiber version of above. It hits a few hertz lower than the above for some reason. The cone breakup is about the same. Since I'm crossing around 800-1000hz I'm not too worried about it.
This seems like the upgraded version of above. I believe these are also made by SB Acoustics. It is just their upgraded line. Runs about the same Q specs as the above too. Maybe its transients are better? I couldn't find a ton of information on people using these. They look fancy. If they sound that much better then for $120 extra the pair I'll go with them. With the amount of work that goes into a system like this...... $120 isn't going to make or break the project.
I know SEAS drivers are always good. This is an aluminum phase plug version. I'm thinking the transients and detail of the SEAS will be better but I know experience to know that for sure. Horrible breakup node around 10khz but won't be a problem crossing so low. Can also notch filter that out since it is so sharp. 8mm of XMAX so still pretty good but 30% less cone travel than the ceramic SB Acoustics.
This one is a bit different. 3x the power handling as the others that I don't actually need. However, this hits down to 40 just fine in my little 0.45' box. The cost of this is low sensitivity. I would have to pad down the planar and the ribbon A LOT to use this driver. Seems almost like a mid bass for a car. Kind of a strange driver. Also, this thing is nearly $200.
The budget choice here. I like the 8" peerless woofer I have. This is really the only thing at PE I found useful. Hits the same as the others but it runs out of XMAX quick. Only 5.3mm. If I ran only sealed it would make sense. This also has lower sensitivity than all the other drivers except the Titan.
SUMMARY:
Well let me think about your choice. Definitely let me know if I missed a gem that I should be considering instead. I'll toss up the graph I'm been running of WINISD sims. They are all similar. The pink line is the Titan. I looked at some Morels as well as some Dayton reference woofers. Didn't really like the specs of the Morel and the Daytons...... too little XMAX and I don't honestly trust any of their specs and stats after testing some of their products for myself.
I have read some threads and some some searching around but I cannot find what I'm looking for: some way to play my ripped CD's from the NAS. But...
no dependency on apple, google, sonos,... Something that doesn't need an account or that stops playing at the next update because it doesn't like my wallpaper
working with .wav files and .m3u playlists
not needing an app but some dedicated hardware is ok (an app would probably mean a hard dependency on apple or google anyway)
cabled ethernet connection, the house is wired thank you very much. If there is wifi it can be disabled.
reading from a usb hd is ok
bluetooth is a not wanted, only admitted if it can be disabled
ability do disable anything I don't need or like: upnp, bonjour, ...
I'd like a digital out on coax but optical is ok, analog if nothing else volume control etc isn't needed but if it is present and can be disabled I can live with it
should boot faster than my laptop (mine, not that from the office, that one takes 10 minutes on a good day (30 on an update day))
if it can play internet radio that is a bonus but not a requirement
Clearance sale! My drawers are getting too full and I have a SissySIT P still to build so I'm letting this one go. All components have been used as a working amplifier but I deconstructed it to use them in a new enclosure.
So what's included:
1. THF51 SIT's 2x
2. SissySIT R3 boards (excl. signal trafo's)
3. 400VA 2x18v trafo (220v) audiograde trafo from Toroidy
4. First watt PSU (universal power supply pcb from diyaudio store)
5.Chassis mount diode bridges
6. Frankenchassis, so Dissipante 4U 300mm but in a smaller formfactor, no front plate included
7. Loudspeaker terminals and rca-connectors
8. 220v power outlet connector with fuse holder
This package includes everything to get it up and running except for wiring and the signal transformers (Edcor/Cinemag/Jensen)
Hi, I bought a dead Vermon ER9 and I'm trying to work out the PSU voltages. If anybody has one could they kindly measure what the voltages are eminating from the PSU. I've got 20 volts AC going in - the transformer seems to be working OK, but nothing coming out of the PSU. Does anyone know that the voltages should be? I intend to build a new PSU to hopefully bring the machine back to life. There's no info on the schematic I have.
The wires are as follow: Wires from left to right
Orange from transformer, green???
Black
NC
Yellow
Red
Brown
Orange from transformer
Inspired by Isaac Moore's speaker concept on reddit using the gyroid infill as damping and locking, I have designed my own desktop 3d printed omnidirectional speakers. I would like to hear the Duevel Planets, but as I live in South America it's not that easy to have access to high end listening rooms.
Configuration used for the printing:
0.6mm nozzle
0.8mm wall x 4 (3.2mm total wall)
8% Gyroid infill
10 botton and top layers (2mm)
Fuzzy skin to finish
The printing time was about 25 hours per cabinet, and there's no extra damping material inside, only the gyroid infill which acts as infill as well as interlocking the structure. I can feel a little vibration from the walls when I really crank up the volume, but this does not happens on listening levels.
It's a bass reflex design, using the Tangband W3-2141 driver in an upfiring position, the port is downfirering and designed with the speaker, flanged in both ends and tuned to 70Hz. After a lot of 3D printed diffuser designs, this is the one that worked for me and it's a glass ball used in pet water fountains on a prited support that rests on the original fixed driver's phase plug.
I like what the omnidirectional design can do with the soundstage, the speakers really desapears. There's another one on the right side of the desk, nearfield listening as my ears are like 80cm from the speakers all the time in a 30º angle from the top. I have also designed and printed the magnetic levitating feed, using the repulsion of 2 magnet as isolators. This really helps to keep my desk from vibrating:
I'm currently using it as a 2.1 setup, with a Thonet & Vander subwoofer from 60Hz below that sits under my desk, amplified by a dedicated ebay amp with active variable crossover and lowpass filter. I use some EQ to push up the top end with a shelf filter about 6dB @9kHz.
Completing the setup, I have an ifi UNO DAC and the amp is a chinese integrated tube amp using EL84, with 3+3W single ended with RTC5654 on pre amp stage and 6P15P-EV on the power, same as the Decware Zen Triode amp recomends.
For now, I believe I have achieved what I was looking for, as I can listen to my preferred music all day long while working on the computer.
English is not my first language, sorry. The speakers were printed using 800g of PLA each.
