No problem, factory can do tap end of extrusion. How about the holes to hold top and bottom cover? Should it be machined at the factory or sent with no holes to accommodate variety of needs.
Any other details while technical drawing is being made?
These heatsinks are thicker than the Modushop ones, right? So in order to use Modushop pieces we'd need them to make a narrower top and back (and a front with counter-bored holes).
If we think it's likely they'd step up to the plate, then we should definitely drill & tap top and bottom cover holes.
If not, then I'm more on the fence. But I'd still probably come down on the side of drilling & tapping some holes.
If we think it's likely they'd step up to the plate, then we should definitely drill & tap top and bottom cover holes.
If not, then I'm more on the fence. But I'd still probably come down on the side of drilling & tapping some holes.
Hi,
Earlier in the week I sent Mr Pass an email with a link to post #77 showing the extrusion profile being discussed.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/343471-skinny-builders-thread-8.html#post5961160
His has kindly written back. His response was: "No problems by me."
Earlier in the week I sent Mr Pass an email with a link to post #77 showing the extrusion profile being discussed.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/343471-skinny-builders-thread-8.html#post5961160
His has kindly written back. His response was: "No problems by me."
I like the F7 PSU best. (It's a decoupled stereo supply; not truly dual-mono, but half-way there.)
I did some boards for it; a couple of folks did group buys. I don't know if they're still any floating around or not.
The regular FirstWatt PSU would also work fine. Or the DIYAudio Universal PSU board.
24V is certainly fine. 25V too. Depending on your heat-sinks, maybe even 28V or 30V.
I did some boards for it; a couple of folks did group buys. I don't know if they're still any floating around or not.
The regular FirstWatt PSU would also work fine. Or the DIYAudio Universal PSU board.
24V is certainly fine. 25V too. Depending on your heat-sinks, maybe even 28V or 30V.
Reverse Engineered.
J2 is more about the devices than topology. If you have the R100s you probably should build this. The ACP+ heaphone/preamp from this Burning Amp http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_acp.pdf is by Nelson's own words a mini J2 with mosfet outputs.
That said, the topology itself IS rather beautiful sounding and all the builders of ACP+ were very happy with the results!
J2 is more about the devices than topology. If you have the R100s you probably should build this. The ACP+ heaphone/preamp from this Burning Amp http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_acp.pdf is by Nelson's own words a mini J2 with mosfet outputs.
That said, the topology itself IS rather beautiful sounding and all the builders of ACP+ were very happy with the results!