No problem, factory can do tap end of extrusion. How about the holes to hold top and bottom cover? Should it be machined at the factory or sent with no holes to accommodate variety of needs.
Any other details while technical drawing is being made?
These heatsinks are thicker than the Modushop ones, right? So in order to use Modushop pieces we'd need them to make a narrower top and back (and a front with counter-bored holes).
If we think it's likely they'd step up to the plate, then we should definitely drill & tap top and bottom cover holes.
If not, then I'm more on the fence. But I'd still probably come down on the side of drilling & tapping some holes.
If we think it's likely they'd step up to the plate, then we should definitely drill & tap top and bottom cover holes.
If not, then I'm more on the fence. But I'd still probably come down on the side of drilling & tapping some holes.
Sorry, no idea on 4U at all. I'm thinking 4 holes each side drilled and tapped M4 size for top and bottom covers.
This would be incredible if it becomes a real possibility. Thanks for taking the initiative.. dB
Hi,
Earlier in the week I sent Mr Pass an email with a link to post #77 showing the extrusion profile being discussed.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/343471-skinny-builders-thread-8.html#post5961160
His has kindly written back. His response was: "No problems by me."
Earlier in the week I sent Mr Pass an email with a link to post #77 showing the extrusion profile being discussed.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/343471-skinny-builders-thread-8.html#post5961160
His has kindly written back. His response was: "No problems by me."
Sweet! I am looking at the Pesante 4U chassis which comes with 300mm or 400mm depth and no heat sinks. Also, 4mm thick front panel might look better with the proposed heat sinks, but I don't know.
Anyone have a BOM for the power supply, or schematic? I have an Antek 300va 18v on the way. The schematic for the amp call for 23v rails 24 be okay?
I like the F7 PSU best. (It's a decoupled stereo supply; not truly dual-mono, but half-way there.)
I did some boards for it; a couple of folks did group buys. I don't know if they're still any floating around or not.
The regular FirstWatt PSU would also work fine. Or the DIYAudio Universal PSU board.
24V is certainly fine. 25V too. Depending on your heat-sinks, maybe even 28V or 30V.
I did some boards for it; a couple of folks did group buys. I don't know if they're still any floating around or not.
The regular FirstWatt PSU would also work fine. Or the DIYAudio Universal PSU board.
24V is certainly fine. 25V too. Depending on your heat-sinks, maybe even 28V or 30V.
Hi Jeff,
Speaking of your PS PCB design, a local diyer ordered a number of the boards and
donated a bunch for me to take down to BAF
Cheers,
Dennis
Speaking of your PS PCB design, a local diyer ordered a number of the boards and
donated a bunch for me to take down to BAF
Cheers,
Dennis
Guys, I regret to inform that heatsink development is going to be a bit slow, I need to work on unforeseen setback on my ongoing project for the next few weeks.
I’ve been inactive for a very long time.
Did papa release the circuit or is this our reverse engineered effort?
Did papa release the circuit or is this our reverse engineered effort?
Reverse Engineered.
J2 is more about the devices than topology. If you have the R100s you probably should build this. The ACP+ heaphone/preamp from this Burning Amp http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_acp.pdf is by Nelson's own words a mini J2 with mosfet outputs.
That said, the topology itself IS rather beautiful sounding and all the builders of ACP+ were very happy with the results!
J2 is more about the devices than topology. If you have the R100s you probably should build this. The ACP+ heaphone/preamp from this Burning Amp http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_acp.pdf is by Nelson's own words a mini J2 with mosfet outputs.
That said, the topology itself IS rather beautiful sounding and all the builders of ACP+ were very happy with the results!