I'm sure volume pot's leads are too long, but extender will fix that. What else wrong about arraignment? or just sarcastic about my "sideways mounted board" innovation...LOL.
It and M2 warming....
Russellc
It and M2 warming....
Russellc
....this arrangement, boy?
regarding selector switch, as you said - it is just energizing relays, so you can situate it in next room , as far as I'm concerned
regarding that L bracket, shown in between pcb and RCAs, I'm really not getting purpose of that
The L bracket is what the extender kit comes with. I borrowed one from another not done build. That's what I meant by saying I didnt like the way current arrangement has selector pot so close to RCA jacks in rear. But if selector wiring isnt problematic I could leave as is. Volume pot will definitely have extender...
Russellc
Well, if we're sharing dodo moments... When I finally took my first Iron Pre SE off of the test bench and put it into the main system (after it worked flawlessly on the bench with a small rig).... I had very low sound.
I had connected my source to the outputs and the amp to the inputs... Took me over 10 mins to figure it out. This is AFTER ZM was kind enough to walk me through troubleshooting on the bench that amounted to me being a bit too generous with the heat on my output wiring and shorting two of them together by burning through the insulation.
It's because I didn't have a proper pizza board, and it was on cardboard... That's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it.
The pizza board worked great. Electricity proof, has a handle and you can cut and solder on it. Easy to move around, etc. I've had dumber ideas...
Russellc
Russellc
I get for what L Bracket is intended, generally, but I'm not getting why you squeeze it in there , in between pcb and RCAs, when you need to move pcb all the way to RCA
just make bloody thing per picture I edited, posted in #1K
I don't care for your lettering and intention for front plate, do it as is logical and best and this is exactly as I did show you on that pic
here it is , pic from #1K enclosed again :
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I was thinking it was necessary to get selector pot back there too, I guess not. I will use as is for now, listen for while then when extenders arrive I can fix volume and shorten lines, but its only about 3/4" at most, some more like 1/2" depending on which input.
Russellc
Russellc
Crosstalk is just as it was. It just seems odd that crosstalk ONLY occurs between two inputs that have something plugged in to them. I can avoid the problem, but is odd. Just don't have two sources on at once, and if only one source playing make sure proper input is selected so you aren't listening through a much quieter bleed through input.
That's the other odd thing, there is only bleed through to a selector position that has something plugged into it. Unused inputs are quiet.
While this arrangement is better for sure, I don't think the wiring is problem. I've had far worse bird'snest builds that were dead quiet.
Russellc
That's the other odd thing, there is only bleed through to a selector position that has something plugged into it. Unused inputs are quiet.
While this arrangement is better for sure, I don't think the wiring is problem. I've had far worse bird'snest builds that were dead quiet.
Russellc
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try cutting that trace I told you
cut neat, so later you can bridge it, if preferable
and, btw. evaluate always with proper sources; shitty ones are just ...... shitty
case closed
cut neat, so later you can bridge it, if preferable
and, btw. evaluate always with proper sources; shitty ones are just ...... shitty
case closed
Yes this system has lesser TV, I think little Dragon fly has more beans than you are giving credit.
That all said, every other front end in same place does not do this, nada, no bleed through.
The ground cut may work, I can't think of other path. Not sure how to cut neatly as to redo....I get cut, what is technique for "reattaching"?
Russellc
That all said, every other front end in same place does not do this, nada, no bleed through.
The ground cut may work, I can't think of other path. Not sure how to cut neatly as to redo....I get cut, what is technique for "reattaching"?
Russellc
cut with exacto, clean tight cut
scrape solder mask on trace from both side of track for 2mm
whenever you want, you can solder-bridge it, solder blob will ride across tiny cut
scrape solder mask on trace from both side of track for 2mm
whenever you want, you can solder-bridge it, solder blob will ride across tiny cut
Sweet. Problem as is really isn't problem, just noticed running 2 sources at same time, or don't have selector to correct source.
Going to listen for while now that back in system. It's really nice in other systems here, M2/E'wave combo sounds especially nice too with Iron Pre in mix.
One dodo question, when you say both sides, you mean side to side, not either side meaning top and bottom.
Sorry, want to be double sure before sawing on board.
Russellc
Going to listen for while now that back in system. It's really nice in other systems here, M2/E'wave combo sounds especially nice too with Iron Pre in mix.
One dodo question, when you say both sides, you mean side to side, not either side meaning top and bottom.
Sorry, want to be double sure before sawing on board.
Russellc
back to pic
red line- cut exactly there
scrape 2mm at each side of red line
you done
how many 24hrs you have in your sig?
red line- cut exactly there
scrape 2mm at each side of red line
you done
how many 24hrs you have in your sig?
Looks like we both joined in '03, so, number of units in sig, multiplied by 24 hrs....
Russellc
Russellc
....At least this surgery can be done without removing board, that should save few 24 hrs.
Russellc
Russellc
Well, I really thought I'd get the Bal Iron Pre up to the point of only needing to take the front panel to have LED holes cut and maybe some artwork on it...
All that should be left for tomorrow is cutting, terminating, and routing the 14-pin connector along with some tidying of the chassis. I need to lift the riser board a tiny bit more for clearance of the bolts and wires on the underside.
My goofups on the chassis have been numerous, but it's been a very fun build.
Some progress pics.
Edited to add / ask - ZM, in the current layout - the pot wires run directly over the Jensens.... any concern? It's differential... so I don't think it's too much of a worry, but is there a better routing... I really don't want to try mu metal on the transformers, but I suppose I could. In hindsight, I would have put the pots on the other side of the boards. No way to do that now. C'est la vie.
All that should be left for tomorrow is cutting, terminating, and routing the 14-pin connector along with some tidying of the chassis. I need to lift the riser board a tiny bit more for clearance of the bolts and wires on the underside.
My goofups on the chassis have been numerous
, but it's been a very fun build.Some progress pics.
Edited to add / ask - ZM, in the current layout - the pot wires run directly over the Jensens.... any concern? It's differential... so I don't think it's too much of a worry, but is there a better routing... I really don't want to try mu metal on the transformers, but I suppose I could. In hindsight, I would have put the pots on the other side of the boards. No way to do that now. C'est la vie.
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just chill, looking good
Jensens are Il Pico Magneto at that level of energy, so no influence on pot wires
Jensens are Il Pico Magneto at that level of energy, so no influence on pot wires