I know that I'm Genius
that's only way you can live on this forum, not drop dead every second day due to inferiority complex
Russell , how it sings now, and what's the rest of setup (except M2, which you already named) ?
At time of firing up relays first time Iron Pre to M2, the JBL 4705 box Econowaves. Essentially it is bottom half of JBL 4430, cu. ft, drive tuning and crossover.
Top is QES waveguide and B&C DE 250, crossed over with cross over by Zilch.
Source, laptop loaded with Musicbee, which allows for WASAPI output by passing the Microsoft stuff and sound card. Then to tiny AudioQuest Dragon DAC.
Digital files in hard drive. Really want to haul upstairs to vinyl, Pearl 2, BA3 amp. Have it hooked up to Aleph J and Tektons for videos sound right now.
It sounds very nice. Need extenders, fuse holder and rotory on/off switch to finish.
Now to decide on a Balanced Iron Pre, or wait until funds for balanced Iron Turtle.
Will finish Sissysit next.....
Russellc
In effort to speed finish of Iron pre, I "borrowed" the tubecad on/off I had for the DC3G build. Havent tapped its heatsink yet so it can wait for tubecad to restock. It doesnt use an extender b/c of transformer position. Once fuse holder arrives I can add it and shorten/neaten the transformer wiring.
Did briefly take upstairs for whirl on vinyl rig. Very nice. One thing that is clear about this preamp, it has an ability to really separate sounds and instruments really, really well.
I really like the BA3 FE, large soundspace, big warm powerful sound. I thought that with the large stage it created that items were clearly defined...but with Iron Pre, BA3 FE sound a little "in the mist" in comparison. A remarkable trait of the Iron pre no matter what amp or speaker.
I dont consider the BA3 FE the least bit aggressive, but that is what comes to mind when I switched it back into system. Still very enjoyable and a nice "hello old friend" response, but Iron Pre has a certain easiness to it that made me use term "aggressive"....maybe forceful is a better word?
Compared to Wayne's 2018 Linestage, anothe front end I have really come to appreciate, it is sort of on the other end of spectrum from BA3 FE in comparison to Iron Pre. Wayne's LS is a little "sharper" than balance of Iron Pre. I dont mean that it is sharp, just again when switched back in place from Iron Pre, it (Iron Pre) is easier going.
Both of these throw a wonderful stage but Iron pre edges it out the same way I noticed when compared to BA3 FE....its ability to separate individual parts of soundstage, creating more transparent space between sounds.
Yes, when Wayne's LS is switched back in, no bad feelings, it's a welcome friend also. I have really come to enjoy it with the Aleph J. Just Iron Pre has a striking ability to separate individual sounds, and has a lovely ease to it's sound.
Russellc
Did briefly take upstairs for whirl on vinyl rig. Very nice. One thing that is clear about this preamp, it has an ability to really separate sounds and instruments really, really well.
I really like the BA3 FE, large soundspace, big warm powerful sound. I thought that with the large stage it created that items were clearly defined...but with Iron Pre, BA3 FE sound a little "in the mist" in comparison. A remarkable trait of the Iron pre no matter what amp or speaker.
I dont consider the BA3 FE the least bit aggressive, but that is what comes to mind when I switched it back into system. Still very enjoyable and a nice "hello old friend" response, but Iron Pre has a certain easiness to it that made me use term "aggressive"....maybe forceful is a better word?
Compared to Wayne's 2018 Linestage, anothe front end I have really come to appreciate, it is sort of on the other end of spectrum from BA3 FE in comparison to Iron Pre. Wayne's LS is a little "sharper" than balance of Iron Pre. I dont mean that it is sharp, just again when switched back in place from Iron Pre, it (Iron Pre) is easier going.
Both of these throw a wonderful stage but Iron pre edges it out the same way I noticed when compared to BA3 FE....its ability to separate individual parts of soundstage, creating more transparent space between sounds.
Yes, when Wayne's LS is switched back in, no bad feelings, it's a welcome friend also. I have really come to enjoy it with the Aleph J. Just Iron Pre has a striking ability to separate individual sounds, and has a lovely ease to it's sound.
Russellc
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Love that write up Russellc!
Today a good amount of vinyl with Iron and M2X mono blocks. 6db better than 12db setting on Iron with M2X IMO. Specially with phono stage.
WINNER! LOVING IT. Feels like details for miles with excellent clarity—but warm and "lived in" too. I was also trying out all the M2X boards... so it was a lot—but way way too much fun—just ask 6L6's phone.
Today a good amount of vinyl with Iron and M2X mono blocks. 6db better than 12db setting on Iron with M2X IMO. Specially with phono stage.
WINNER! LOVING IT. Feels like details for miles with excellent clarity—but warm and "lived in" too. I was also trying out all the M2X boards... so it was a lot—but way way too much fun—just ask 6L6's phone.
Just being a dodo per usual... 
I spent two hours troubleshooting a dodo issue on my BA
I just got some of the wiring needed... and I think I may have the courage to drill some holes tomorrow myself. Still debating dual pots... so waiting on a pot I ordered to try, and I might try the linear pot trick before I drill the front panel.
More fun tomorrow!
I spent two hours troubleshooting a dodo issue on my BA I just got some of the wiring needed... and I think I may have the courage to drill some holes tomorrow myself. Still debating dual pots... so waiting on a pot I ordered to try, and I might try the linear pot trick before I drill the front panel.
More fun tomorrow!
Getting ready to drill some holes and get the Iron-Pre Balanced into a chassis. I was / am a big sissy, and I could not decide on dual pots or not. I am going with dual pots.
Simple question as I finalize layout and wiring. This is my first balanced pre-amp build with two transformers. Is is wise to have a fuse on each of the neutral legs of the primaries similar to what was advised for my power amplifier / dual mono builds? Based on what I've read and picked up, I think the answer is yes, but I want to confirm. I forgot to order fuse holders... DOH!
Simple question as I finalize layout and wiring. This is my first balanced pre-amp build with two transformers. Is is wise to have a fuse on each of the neutral legs of the primaries similar to what was advised for my power amplifier / dual mono builds? Based on what I've read and picked up, I think the answer is yes, but I want to confirm. I forgot to order fuse holders... DOH!
Getting ready to drill some holes and get the Iron-Pre Balanced into a chassis. I was / am a big sissy, and I could not decide on dual pots or not. I am going with dual pots.
Simple question as I finalize layout and wiring. This is my first balanced pre-amp build with two transformers. Is is wise to have a fuse on each of the neutral legs of the primaries similar to what was advised for my power amplifier / dual mono builds? Based on what I've read and picked up, I think the answer is yes, but I want to confirm. I forgot to order fuse holders... DOH!
one common fuse is good for two eenyweenies
regular calc - if they're 2x20VA=40VA............/120V=250mA will do the job
both for work and GodForbid!!
DCB1 (close enough to write here?) now playing with some iron
well, I wasn't clear regarding that, sorry ;
I'm leaving matter of fuse positioning to comply with your local rulez
in my neck of wood, single phase connection (wall/cable) is not oriented, and all gadgets are made according to that (of course that double fused and 2-pole switching is best practice)
"only" 3-phase wall/cable connectors are oriented
I'm leaving matter of fuse positioning to comply with your local rulez
in my neck of wood, single phase connection (wall/cable) is not oriented, and all gadgets are made according to that (of course that double fused and 2-pole switching is best practice)
"only" 3-phase wall/cable connectors are oriented
one common fuse is good for two eenyweenies
regular calc - if they're 2x20VA=40VA............/120V=250mA will do the job
both for work and GodForbid!!
You guys are really making me think today!
First I wanted to try and understand a bit of the "why".
So, I read this...
Double Fusing or Fusing Both Sides of the Line - In Compliance Magazine
I think I understood ~90% of it, which is more than I thought I'd get.
The main point that seems to be relevant is whether the plugs can ever be put in reversed.
"For single-phase, single-voltage plug-and-socket-connected equipment, single fusing ONLY provides protection for both faults when polarity reversal is not possible."
Polarity reversal doesn't seem to be possible in my house with this wiring / plug I'll be using. So, there does not seem to be an advantage for putting the fuse on the neutral line. If I understood the article correctly along with ZM's follow-up.
Either way... I could not find a code for my area that I could digest, so...
Based on 2 x 50VA = 100VA / 120V => ~1A single fuse on the hot side should be just dandy.
BTW - No one should take this post as guidance re: AC wiring... or really anything for that matter.
My indecision and lack of foresight is causing some delays.
- Ordered the wrong XLR jacks... I want jacks that mount on the inside of the back panel for ease of soldering / mounting and to keep I/O wires shortest. I accidentally ordered external mount.
- Didn't have a large enough stepped drill bit to drill holes for XLRs...
- Had to bore out the coupling for the pots / extensions. Pots are 1/4" shaft. I have 6mm rods, couplings and knobs...
- Had to make decision for front panel and twister... LEDs, no LEDs, Mute, no Mute... LED for Mute? Decided on LEDs and mute. Blue for Inputs and Red for Mute. I'll drill and install those last in case I change my mind (again)...
- Had to order tool, wire, and connectors for making ribbon cables. Ready-made ones I bought are too short. Running twisted wires and soldering point-to-point would most likely wind up causing me issues.
I still have to choose wire routing for mains / primaries. I should have room between riser and bottom panel. I'll shorten up the pot wiring and I/Os once have final positions. I may switch to some shielded wire for I/Os and pot wiring vs. re-purposed CAT-5. Thoughts?
Are there any tips for physically EMI shielding the mains / primary wires? Some kind of mesh? It seems many people use shielded I/O wiring to prevent noise "getting in", but I have not seen any examples of trying to shield the "source" of the noise i.e. the actual mains / primaries? Is it effective?
More goodies to finish up should arrive through the week Can't wait.
Some early porn. It's starting to look like a proper piece of gear.
- Ordered the wrong XLR jacks... I want jacks that mount on the inside of the back panel for ease of soldering / mounting and to keep I/O wires shortest. I accidentally ordered external mount.
- Didn't have a large enough stepped drill bit to drill holes for XLRs...
- Had to bore out the coupling for the pots / extensions. Pots are 1/4" shaft. I have 6mm rods, couplings and knobs...
- Had to make decision for front panel and twister... LEDs, no LEDs, Mute, no Mute... LED for Mute? Decided on LEDs and mute. Blue for Inputs and Red for Mute. I'll drill and install those last in case I change my mind (again)...
- Had to order tool, wire, and connectors for making ribbon cables. Ready-made ones I bought are too short. Running twisted wires and soldering point-to-point would most likely wind up causing me issues.
I still have to choose wire routing for mains / primaries. I should have room between riser and bottom panel. I'll shorten up the pot wiring and I/Os once have final positions. I may switch to some shielded wire for I/Os and pot wiring vs. re-purposed CAT-5. Thoughts?
Are there any tips for physically EMI shielding the mains / primary wires? Some kind of mesh? It seems many people use shielded I/O wiring to prevent noise "getting in", but I have not seen any examples of trying to shield the "source" of the noise i.e. the actual mains / primaries? Is it effective?
More goodies to finish up should arrive through the week
Can't wait. Some early porn. It's starting to look like a proper piece of gear.