Cool!
Then again, just because they look like quality, it doesn't mean they are and this type of customer service implies they paid next to nothing for them which in turn implies poor quality, used or not. Factor in that well made drivers (at least prosound ones) can typically withstand poor packaging and even frame bending drops from clumsiness/whatever without misaligning the VC and the old adage that 'if it seems to be too good to be true it probably is' comes to mind.
Regardless, we usually build to a budget and hope for the best and short of truly ~nonexistent build quality even obviously cheaply design/constructed drivers tend to last a long time in a HIFI/HT app IME if not heated up too much and/or mechanically damaged from high power. Indeed, the majority of failures I've seen were small child, pet induced, so well anchored and protective grills are a good plan if they are exposed to either.
GM
Well. My brother has a cat which is interested in cone movement. She tends to lay her paws on the cone, which i DO NOT like :S
And i'm having a new cousin in like half a year or so and he/she might be interested... So grills will definately be needed 😀
Well. The only thing that protected those was around 6mm cardboard. And the shippingcompany is not that very careful of what the ship. I've seen it myself.
And i'm having a new cousin in like half a year or so and he/she might be interested... So grills will definately be needed 😀
Well. The only thing that protected those was around 6mm cardboard. And the shippingcompany is not that very careful of what the ship. I've seen it myself.
No argument, times have changed WRT shipping. I have two 15" Altec MI drivers in their original flimsy cardboard boxes that were shipped to me across country in 1970 and they are pristine with only a molded Styro-foam top, bottom 'plate' and fairly flimsy corrugated cardboard 'tube' to somewhat protect the boxes' corners from collapsing from careless stacking.
There's no way I would ship them today to even my next door neighbor without filling all its internal voids with plastic bags filled with expanded foam and putting them in a second cushioned box even though I know from experience this brand/model can withstand a frame bending drop and straightened 'good enough' in a vise and returned to prosound duty, but then their inflation adjusted delivered cost to me was ~$450/ea..
GM
There's no way I would ship them today to even my next door neighbor without filling all its internal voids with plastic bags filled with expanded foam and putting them in a second cushioned box even though I know from experience this brand/model can withstand a frame bending drop and straightened 'good enough' in a vise and returned to prosound duty, but then their inflation adjusted delivered cost to me was ~$450/ea..
GM
I wont spoon-feed you with more simulations as you seems to lack very basic knowledge how to interpret my sim.-plots…but here is a
layout design attempt based on a recently developed Excel spread sheet for compact layouts: Brian Steele’s Spreadsheet for Folded Horn Layouts:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/171747-spreadsheet-folded-horn-layouts-6.html
b
😀🙂Attachments
Thank you Bjorno. Interesting choice.
I´ve built ugly testboxes from 40L up to 80L ported and even tried them in my SLS10s 42L closed box. Played with parametric filter and different Q-settings. What´s funny, they sound good in all of them.🙂
My decision was from the beginning to build (cheep and fun) real small boxes, as small as possible, and make room for plenty of them.
The big problem is the portlength, it tend to be far to long. So 54,4L was my not so bad compromise.
Have not tried isobaric yet. I´ll put them outside my boxes front/front.
Someone have any idea of this? Does it require some distance between elements?
I´ve built ugly testboxes from 40L up to 80L ported and even tried them in my SLS10s 42L closed box. Played with parametric filter and different Q-settings. What´s funny, they sound good in all of them.🙂
My decision was from the beginning to build (cheep and fun) real small boxes, as small as possible, and make room for plenty of them.
The big problem is the portlength, it tend to be far to long. So 54,4L was my not so bad compromise.
Have not tried isobaric yet. I´ll put them outside my boxes front/front.
Someone have any idea of this? Does it require some distance between elements?
Now i see something that looks like a box. Tack Bjorno 😀
By the way, got my Mar-Kel70's up and running now for the first time!!! 😀 Like 100hrs of breakin and it will be awesome!
By the way, got my Mar-Kel70's up and running now for the first time!!! 😀 Like 100hrs of breakin and it will be awesome!
Uhm, the one with ports on the side. The bigger of the two. Can't wait to hear what they sound like when they're sealed, damped and played 100hrs or so. Done like... 40-45 minutes so far ;P
Good, i think this bigger version has better potential to integrate with 1060.
80Hz crossover will be ok. Take a look at the little modified F1-filter CSS sells, it´s nice. Variable 40 - 150Hz.
80Hz crossover will be ok. Take a look at the little modified F1-filter CSS sells, it´s nice. Variable 40 - 150Hz.
Ragnwald: Filter wont be a problem since i'll go with the XTZ (swedish 😀) Sub-Amp 1 which has both highpass and lowpass filter. Is it possible to use the high-pass for the EL70's and the lowpass for the subs? Either way i think i'd prefer a high-pass for the EL70's so i don't break them at high volume and somewhat low frequencies (think of RATM at very loud volumes).
The other thread has been running so long that I could be wrong, but I thought the HK was a HT receiver? If so it would have full bass management and "set size" option for main speakers; I'd certainly be inclined to try that first. The onboard DSP would likely be more flexible and sonically superior to the HP filter on the plate amp. The latter are generally fixed frequency and (all I've personally heard) of dubious merit.
The Harman Kardon HK3490 is a stereo-reciever and it has no menu or something like that at all. A little sad but i bet the sound is good for it's cost. And it has a built-in DAC which is why i bought it.
That will take you a long way... the midrange seems to keep getting better fro sometime after that.
dave
Yeah. Just keep the music on as much as possible.
Right now i'm listening to very low volume and the sound is not bad at all actually. Not worse than my Dynavoice so far. And i expect them to be better after a while.
Rullknufs, i thought you did know the F1, it certainly has both LP- and HP-filter in it and a volume controll for sub. You must HP-filter EL70 and LP-filter 1060 to make them integrate.
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Between pre-out and main-in on your reciever.
The recievers mainamp drive EL70 and a separate plain stereo mainamplifier drive the subs.
You find F1 om CSS site, at the middle of startpage, just above EL70.😉
Creative Sound Solutions - Loudspeakers, Parts and DIY Speaker Kits
The recievers mainamp drive EL70 and a separate plain stereo mainamplifier drive the subs.
You find F1 om CSS site, at the middle of startpage, just above EL70.😉
Creative Sound Solutions - Loudspeakers, Parts and DIY Speaker Kits
Uhhm. I didn't really understand HOW to use that filter but it looked like a good thing. But i guess it wont be cheap since it will have to come from USA. And i think i want the stereo model since i will make the subs play quite high in freq i think.
Btw, what should i expect when i put some dampening material in the speakers? More bass? Cleaner sound?
Btw, what should i expect when i put some dampening material in the speakers? More bass? Cleaner sound?
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