What enclosure for those subs?

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Apparently SDX (from the swedish forum) had made some measuring on those subs.
Xmax was 9.6mm linear and Pe was around 150w but he had tested them with 260w with no problem but he said it was "better to be on the safe side".

And about my "broken" sub he said it was probably a piece of glue between the voice coil and the cone. Maybe something i could fix?
 
Which driver, the 1060, 1060A or both?

If it's between the pole and VC, then you should be able to remove it once the dust cap is removed. If it's on the VC's outside, this means removing the surround which normally can't be done having to do a complete re-cone.

GM
 
Which driver, the 1060, 1060A or both?

If it's between the pole and VC, then you should be able to remove it once the dust cap is removed. If it's on the VC's outside, this means removing the surround which normally can't be done having to do a complete re-cone.

GM

On the 1060.
He said he was gonna get me a picture later tonight but i haven't seen any yet...
There is no dust-cap on these speakers. I don't know what you call it but it's a metal-cone that i bowl-shaped.
 
OK, guess we'll have to wait on him, though the few inexpensive 'metal' woofers I'm familiar with, the metal bowl is just a tinfoil thick insert glued to a paper driver that in a (sub)woofer app makes it near 100% cosmetic, i.e. it's the DC.

GM
 
Regarding the piece of glue i couldn't see anything through the almost microscopic holes. I will try to take something hard and stick it in under there and see if i feel anything uneven there.

I actually picked out a working RSW-1060 today. I have just been testing them at higher volumes than before knowing that the Hitachi will have problems to break them i pulled the volume up and the floor was vibrating quite badly and if i put the driver 20cm in front of my face i could hear some nice bass 😀
 
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I've decided it will look better with particle board than MDF and i've found a 1200x2500x22mm one for around 40$. That's not that bad.
If we say that 2 is needed it will cost 80$ + the subs for around 80$ too 😀
And i've got a pretty big piece left from my 12mm particle board, maybe it can be used to add some thickness to the baffle?
 
I don't know much about this guy called SDX but he has many RSW-1060 and will be trying to beat 4x maelstromx 15" in sonotubes with his subs 😀
And i've spoken to him a little more. He isn't writing much and you have to read it several times to understand.

He says 4? litres bassreflex and don't listen to you guys because it's a subwoofer and not a woofer. He said that after i said that you suggested some sort of TL.
And if i don't build an enclosure that can act as speaker stands i've found a way to DIY some cheap 😀

And then i answered that i didn't want to play any infrabass or dbdragrace i just want to use them to music.
Then he said that 4? litres bassreflex tuned to ??hz and he said that he uses them for music and that the infrabass is just a little bonus.

In my eyes (or ears...) it sounds like he thinks you're idiots. I know he has built some quite cool thing with CSS SDX15 before and now he has his 14 (or was it 12?) RSW-1060's that are supposed to beat 4 maelstromX 15" in sonotubes...
I don't think that i can trust him more than i trust you really.
 
This post doesn't warrant any response, so all I'll say is that with such a small cab requirement it wouldn't take much time/$$ to (dis)prove his design at least WRT your app, but his comments imply that its measured specs are way off from published, so no sense in me spending any more time on this without proper measurements of yours.

Good luck with it!

GM
 
It wont be anything of this DIY stands. They will weigh around 70-80kg each when finished, and still a little too low i think.

The perfect height of the enclosure would be 75-85cm. In that case the drivers would be at ear height if i place my Mar-Kel70's on them.

But i don't know what to do. The boxes SDX recommended can't be speaker stands and transmissionline sucks according to him but is better according to you. The TL could act as a speaker stand but i know nothing about desigining and calculating TL's.
 
Rullknufs, read what i wrote earlier. SDX and i have come to the same conclusion.
In a box of ca 50 liter, with stiffening, venttube and speaker in place, the volume is down at ca 47 liter. These system give you very nice and loud subbass 20Hz - 80Hz with good punch.
CSS SDX-15 is a really good quallity speaker, i have listend to a pair, it goes easy down, clean and rapidly in the infra with enormous pressure and pleasure, but it cost a little bit more. 😉
RSW-1060Small.jpg

Picture show left pair.
 
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Rullknufs, read what i wrote earlier. SDX and i have come to the same conclusion.
In a box of ca 50 liter, with stiffening, venttube and speaker in place, the volume is down at ca 47 liter. These system give you very nice and loud subbass 20Hz - 80Hz with good punch.
CSS SDX-15 is a really good quallity speaker, i have listend to a pair, it goes easy down, clean and rapidly in the infra with enormous pressure and pleasure, but it cost a little bit more. 😉

Yes, but my goal isn't really to play as deep as possible. I want good performance at 30-100hz or so.
And a 50l might be difficult to make 75-85cm tall, right?
Yeah, SDX15 seems to be a monstersub 😀
 
A normal speaker stand is some 55 - 65 cm high.
How have you come to the conclution of 85cm? Is it centre of tweeter?

I have exactly 85cm from floor to tweeter, when my speakers stand on the sub.

Yes. But i'm not sitting in a sofa. I'm sitting on a computer chair and my desktop is 70cm off the floor i think.
And if i place them on my Malm cupboard it's quite good height, and it's 78cm high.

Btw, is that some Ino-speakers u got?
 
Four of these (doorstopers) under each subbox, will make it for you.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Good for wacuum cleaning.🙂

Or why not ministands upon the subbox?

Ino yes, but not in picture.😉

Humm. Gotland. Maybe you've met SDX irl or maybe you are him 😀

Well, i could use that but wouldn't it look a little weird?
 
So you suggest i should try building a pair of boxes that he is suggesting?
I don't really understand what you mean about measuring and what am i supposed to do/find out?

Why not if he's so experienced with them? I mean according to published specs it's more a home version (lower tuned) of a car audio boombox, ergo not worth the time/$$ to build if you want high SQ and good blend to your 'full-range' mains, but if its published specs are far enough off...............

Measure, or have measured, your driver's T/S specs, i.e. same as the published specs except specific to your driver.

GM
 
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